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Coconut Palm tree on the sandy beach

Here’s How Tall Coconut Trees Actually Grow

If you have ever been to a tropical place, you have seen palm trees. But how many of those have been coconut trees, and just how tall do coconut trees grow?

Coconut trees grow in warm tropical climates and depending on the cultivar, reach varying heights. Tall coconut palm cultivars reach a height of 80-100 feet and have a lifespan of 80-100 years. Dwarf varieties of coconut palms can reach a height of 15-60 feet but have an average lifespan of 40-60 years.

So, you may wonder, do all coconut trees grow as tall as 80 to 100 feet? Stick around to learn just how tall the different cultivars of coconut trees grow. It might surprise you to learn many trees do not get as tall!

How Tall Is The Average Coconut Tree?

The tall coconut palm varieties reach a height of 80-100 feet. These are the coconut trees we all might think of, really tall, very skinny trunks and leaning to one side. The tall varieties of coconut trees live an average lifespan of 80-100 years.

Here are a few tall cultivars of coconut palms:

  • East Coast Tall Coconut 
  • West Coast Tall Coconut 
  • Jamaican Tall Coconut
  • Panama Tall Coconut
  • Maypan Coconut
  • Tiptur Tall Coconut
  • Chandrakalpa Coconut

The dwarf varieties of coconut palms, however, range anywhere from 15-60 feet. Dwarf coconut trees do not live as long as tall coconut varieties, with an average lifespan of 40-60 years.

Here are a few dwarf cultivars of coconut palms:

  • Chowghat Orange Dwarf Coconut
  • Malayan Yellow Dwarf Coconut
  • Golden Malayan Dwarf Coconut
  • Green Dwarf Coconut
  • Macapuno Coconut
  • Fiji Dwarf
  • King Coconut

We will go into more detail about the different coconut palm cultivars, so keep reading!

How Fast Does A Coconut Tree Grow?

Coconut Sapling seedlings wait for planting

A coconut tree can grow anywhere from 12-36 inches each year under the best growing conditions, with an ample amount of sunlight, water, and humidity.

Ample sunlight requirements for coconut trees are over 6 hours of full sunlight per day or about 2,000 hours or more of sunlight every year!

Coconut trees need significant amounts of water to bear fruit. Coconut trees need 15-30 gallons of water per day, but the amount differs depending on the age and where you grow them. You can grow a coconut tree of your own if you live in hardiness zones 10-11, or you can grow a coconut tree indoors, but it will not bear fruit.

Coconut trees need at least 70% humidity, which is why we typically see coconut palms in warm, humid climates. Some cultivars of coconut trees can tolerate drier periods, but they need humidity to produce fruit.

If you are planning on growing a coconut tree, you’ll want to make sure to look at our in-depth guide on how much water coconut trees actually need. It goes over different scenarios where your tree may be growing so you make sure NOT to overwater your coconut tree.

If you decide you want to grow a coconut tree indoors, this is a great humidifier for any of your indoor tropical plants, the Air Innovations Humidifier! This humidifier not only runs for 100 hours, but it also is top fill, operates quietly, and it is a 1.6 gallon-capacity humidifier!

Once a coconut tree produces coconuts, it leans to one side because of the weight of the fruit, giving the tree’s trunk a curved appearance.

Although coconut trees produce coconuts between 3-8 years, they don’t reach peak coconut production until around 15 to 20 years old!

If you want to learn more about transporting a palm tree before you take on the task, check out 10 Best Steps For Transporting Palm Trees (And How To Do It).

What Are Some Cultivars Of Coconut Trees?

As we mentioned before, there are different cultivars of the coconut tree, including tall and dwarf varieties.

Tall coconut palms:

  • East Coast Tall Coconut 
  • West Coast Tall Coconut 
  • Jamaican Tall Coconut
  • Panama Tall Coconut
  • Maypan Coconut
  • Tiptur Tall Coconut
  • Chandrakalpa Coconut

Dwarf coconut palms:

  • Chowghat Orange Dwarf Coconut
  • Malayan Yellow Dwarf Coconut
  • Golden Malayan Dwarf Coconut
  • Green Dwarf Coconut
  • Macapuno Coconut
  • Fiji Dwarf
  • King Coconut

East Coast Tall Coconut

The east coast tall coconut tree reaches a height of 90 feet and is a fairly common cultivar. It produces coconut fruits starting between 6-8 years old. 

The east coast tall coconut produces a reliable 60-70 coconuts each year! Although this coconut cultivar can tolerate dry conditions, it does best in moist, well-draining soil.

Green Dwarf Coconut

The green dwarf coconut is another variety of the Malayan Dwarf coconut, but this coconut palm reaches a height of only 30 feet tall. 

Unlike the Malayan Yellow or the Golden Malayan, which produce yellow coconuts, the green dwarf coconut produces green coconuts, which are used mainly for their water content.

West Coast Tall Coconut 

The west coast tall coconut palm reaches 100 feet, making it one of the tallest coconut palm cultivars there is! They produce large coconuts with high oil content. 

The west coast tall coconut is tolerant of some drought conditions, but like most coconut palms, it does best in well-draining, moist soil.

Golden Malayan Dwarf Coconut

The Golden Malayan Dwarf coconut is a type of the Malayan Dwarf coconut. The only difference is the coconut color. 

Instead of producing yellow coconuts, this Malayan variety produces dark orange coconuts. The Golden Malayan Dwarf also reaches a height of anywhere from 30-60 feet.

Jamaican Tall Coconut

Similar to the west coast tall coconut, the Jamaican tall coconut can reach up to 100 feet in height.

This coconut tree is most notable for its picturesque, round, dark green canopy. More importantly, the Jamaican tall coconut produces anywhere between 100-200 coconut fruits every year!

Macapuno Coconut

The Macapuno coconut tree is a dwarf coconut tree resulting from a genetic mutation. 

Because of this mutation, the coconut has virtually no water content and is noteworthy for its jelly-like meat that is incredibly soft and flavorful. 

These coconuts are considered a delicacy and used in foods and desserts. The Macapuno coconut only grows to a height of 16 feet tall!

Panama Tall Coconut

The Panama tall coconut palm reaches a height of 90 feet and can grow in hardiness zones 9b-11. 

Unlike the previously mentioned coconut varieties, this coconut palm is the most tolerant of cold temperatures and winds. 

This coconut palm resembles the Jamaican tall coconut. However, the Panama tall’s canopy resembles a weeping shape.

Maypan Coconut

Maypan coconut palm tree (Cocos nucifera) in early Florida sunlight in Pompano Beach

One of the coolest things about the Maypan coconut palm is its resistance to lethal yellowing disease, one of the most fatal diseases to coconut palms. 

This coconut palm is a hybrid cross between the Panama tall, which we just covered, and the Malayan Dwarf. It is a commonly planted cultivar in Florida because of its resistance to lethal yellowing disease. 

Because this cultivar is a cross between a tall and a dwarf coconut palm, this coconut palm only reaches 60 feet tall!

Chowghat Orange Dwarf Coconut

Since we have been talking about 80 feet and taller coconut palms, this dwarf coconut may shock you. The Chowghat Orange Dwarf coconut palm only reaches a height of 16 feet! 

It produces around 65 meat-rich coconuts every year. This cultivar also originated in India and is noteworthy for its large, bright orange coconuts!

Tiptur Tall Coconut

The Tiptur tall coconut palm originated in India. It is an extremely low-maintenance palm and is known for its reliable supply of coconut fruits. This coconut palm produces anywhere from 70-80 coconuts per year!

Chandrakalpa Coconut

The Chandrakalpa coconut palm, also known as the Lakshadweep Ordinary coconut palm, originated in India specifically for large-scale cultivation in several Indian states. 

It is extremely tolerant of all levels of soil moisture, including different soil types. This coconut palm is known for its reliable productivity and produces around 100 coconuts per year!

Malayan Yellow Dwarf Coconut

The Malayan Yellow Dwarf coconut originated in Malaysia in the 1800s. It grows to a height of 60 feet and today is found in humid, tropical climates all over the world. 

The Malayan Dwarf is another cultivar commonly planted in Florida due to its resistance to lethal yellowing disease. 

Fiji Dwarf

The Fiji dwarf coconut palm is another disease-resistant cultivar. The Fiji dwarf coconut replaced thousands of coconut palms that died out because of lethal yellowing disease.

It reaches a height of up to 25 feet and is also tolerant to most weather conditions, including most soil types, wind, and varying rainfall.

King Coconut

King yellow coconuts on their palm tree in white sand beach

Last but certainly not least is the king coconut palm. The king coconut palm tree reaches up to 30 feet tall and is native to Sri Lanka. They are extremely prevalent during hot months on roadsides. King coconuts are a shiny bright orange color and are known for their nutritious, and delicious high water content! 

Have you ever wondered if you can grow palm trees where you live? Well, if you live in or around New Orleans, you can learn more about the palms near you here: 5 Reasons New Orleans Has Palm Trees (Plus Growing Tips)!

What Are The Benefits Of Coconut Trees?

Coconut trees have been utilized for thousands of centuries, specifically because of their multitude of uses. 

You can use every part of the coconut palm tree, from the interior of the coconut to the shells, the roots, the fronds, the husk, and even the trunk!

The interior of the coconut produces coconut water, coconut milk, and coconut oil from its meat called copra.

The sap of coconut trees is used to create syrups, seasonings, alcohol, and candy.

Coconut fronds have a variety of uses. They can be used to weave baskets or bags, create sun shades and mats, used as wraps, and to preserve food and you can even create hats and leis with them.

Coconut coir, the natural fiber around the coconut husk, is used in soil mixes for tropical plants, rope, mats, and even brushes. Coconut coir added in the soil as a growing medium gives plants the drainage and aeration they need.

If you have any tropical plants or are looking to grow your own coconut palm, FoxFarm FX14100 Coco Loco Potting Mix is a perfect soil to start with! It’s a perfect mix of growing mediums with one of its key ingredients being coconut coir! 

FoxFarm soil is incredibly sought after for all indoor plants, and the best thing about this tropical coconut coir potting mix is it holds its weight in water while still being well-draining! This means nutrients and water can be sucked up as needed by the plants, reducing the probability of root rot and insects!

Traditionally, in Polynesian culture, the trunk of the coconut tree was used to create canoes. The trunk of coconut trees is so sturdy it has been used for houses, boats, and even furniture.

What Exactly Is A Coconut Tree?

Did you know the coconut tree is the only species in the genus, Cocos? The scientific name of the coconut tree is Cocos nucifera. Although there is only one species of coconut tree, there are many cultivars of coconut trees grown around the world.

Cultivars are specifically bred varieties of a plant. Breeding specific varieties or hybrids and crosses of plants allows for disease resistance, potentially higher production of fruit, or insect resistance, to name a few.

For centuries, the coconut tree has been used all around the world. People use them for everything from food to furniture, including coconut oil, water, baking, baskets, and arrows.

Coconut trees belong to the Arecaceae family and have no branches! They have only palms, which are a single leaf, commonly called fronds.

These trees grow in hardiness zones 10-11 in hot tropical climates. Typically, tall coconut trees reach up to 100 feet tall, but certain cultivars only reach 15-30 feet tall!

Coconut palm trees can produce anywhere from 50-200 coconuts per year, depending on climate, care, and age, and rarely begin producing fruit until they are between 3-8 years old.

If you have thought about growing palm trees, we have just the article for you, Here’s Why You Can’t Grow Tropical Palm Trees In New York.

That’s A Wrap!

Now that we’ve learned about different cultivars of coconut trees, I think they may just be the ultimate tree! Not only are some varieties disease resistant, but some are also incredibly tolerant and require minimal care once established. Not to mention the abundance of uses of the entire tree!

Thanks for sticking around and learning about coconut trees with us! Maybe you’ll remember some of these amazing coconut tree facts the next time you’re in a tropical place!

References:

Arunachalam, V., and M. K. Rajesh. “Breeding of coconut palm (Cocos nucifera L.).” CAB Reviews: perspectives in agriculture, veterinary science, nutrition and natural resources 3.053 (2008): 1-12.

Chan, Edward, and Craig R. Elevitch. “Cocos nucifera (coconut).” Species profiles for Pacific Island agroforestry 2 (2006): 1-27.

Liyanage, D. V. “Varieties and forms of the coconut palm grown in Ceylon.” (1958).

Nampoothiri, K. U. K., Krishnakumar, V., Thampan, P. K., & Nair, M. A. (Eds.). (2019). The Coconut Palm (Cocos Nucifera L.)–Research and Development Perspectives. Singapore: Springer.

Watawana, Mindani I., et al. “Enhancement of the antioxidant and starch hydrolase inhibitory activities of king coconut water (Cocos nucifera var. aurantiaca) by fermentation with kombucha ‘tea fungus’.” International Journal of Food Science & Technology 51.2 (2016): 490-498.

Coconut palms with cows in Bali. Tropical island

Here’s How Much Water Coconut Trees Need (Watering Tips)

When you think of coconut trees, you probably think of tropical trees surrounded by perfectly blue water. Would you believe they still require a LOT of water? Here’s how much water coconut trees need.

Coconut trees need 15-30 gallons of water per day if being grown for fruit harvesting purposes. They can also be grown indoors, but need much less water since they will not bear fruit. The amount of water a coconut tree needs will depend on it’s climate, which is generally tropical.

If you think about it, it makes sense that coconut trees need so much water, especially since coconuts are 94% water! As we mentioned, you can grow a coconut palm indoors, but remember, it will not bear fruit. Read on to learn more about Cocos nucifera, the coconut tree and how much water coconut trees actually need.

What Is A Coconut Tree?

So you might think, what exactly is a coconut tree? Did you know there is only one species of coconut tree? It is the Coconut palm, Cocos nucifera. People have used coconut trees for centuries, for a multitude of reasons. 

The coconut tree, Cocos nucifera, is a palm and the only living species in the Cocos genus. Contrary to its name, the coconut is a fruit, not a nut. 

Today, we use things from coconut meat for coconut oil, coconut water, and coconut milk for cooking, consuming, and baking. In other parts of the country and around the world, all parts of the coconut trees are used. It is used for things like baskets, arrows, furniture, dyes, instruments, syrups, and utensils, to name a few.

The coconut tree or coconut palm is found in hardiness zones 10–11 where the weather is hot and tropical. Coconut trees or palms are part of the palm family called Arecaceae.

They are characterized by having a single leaf or frond and no branches! It grows up to 100 feet tall and does not grow any branches, but rather palm-leaf stalks, which are roughly 3-5 feet long.

Coconut palms can produce around 50-200 coconut fruits per year depending on the variety and climate. Coconut palms typically do not produce fruit until 3-8 years of age, but once they produce fruit, they do so year-round.

Did you know that the coconut tree will continue to produce fruit for 80 years?

How Often Should I Water A Coconut Tree?

Coconut trees are found in warm tropical climates, meaning they love the heat and humidity! Although they can tolerate some dry soil conditions, it’s not ideal. 

How much water a coconut tree needs depends on its location, cultivar, climate, and what it’s being used for. Is it producing fruit for consumption, or is it an indoor houseplant? Yes, you can grow them as a houseplant!

Coconut palms, as we mentioned, love the humidity. If you are going to grow a coconut palm indoors, your best bet is to have a humidifier, as you would for any other tropical plant. 

Watering coconut trees is where most of the trouble lies, especially if you are growing one indoors. Over-watering causes the death of most house plants, which is what makes some of them so fussy.

Farm Grown Coconut Trees Need More Water

If it is producing fruit and being grown in a tropical area, naturally, it may only need water during dry periods. 

If it is being farm-grown, depending on the method of irrigation, it could need anywhere from 4-30 gallons of water a day, and even up to 108 gallons per week!

Just like any other plant, depending on its age or stage in its life cycle, that will determine the amount of water that the coconut tree needs making it all more important to know how much water your coconut tree needs. In the germination stage and the first year of the coconut tree’s life, it needs frequent attention and care.

Tall Coconut Trees Need The Most Water

Tall coconut trees need the most amount of water, as mentioned, and are not drought tolerant, however, certain types of dwarf coconut trees need half the amount of water as tall coconut trees and are even drought tolerant.

Indoor Coconut Trees Need The Least Water

If you are growing a coconut tree inside as a houseplant, water it once the top half of the soil has dried out. However, if the soil is soggy, too wet, or left in standing water, it spells out peril for your coconut tree. So basically, you want the soil to be moist, but not overly wet.

To measure the moisture of the soil in your plants, a moisture meter will be your best friend.

One of the best recommended soil moisture meters is SONKIR Soil pH Meter. It’s easy to use, does not require any batteries, and will save your plants.

What Else Do Coconut Trees Need Besides Water?

fresh coconuts in the bunch at coconut tree.

Have you ever thought of exactly where palm trees grow? Well, you certainly don’t see them growing naturally in New York, except maybe at restaurants or around someone’s pool. Coconut trees grow in hot, humid, tropical environments.

For more on this, check out Here’s Why You Can’t Grow Tropical Palm Trees In New York.

So, aside from specific watering needs, coconut trees need high humidity, heat, well-draining soil, and lots of sunlight!

Humidity

Since we already covered the watering needs of coconut trees. Let’s talk about humidity. Coconut trees need at least 70% humidity. Although they can tolerate some dry heat, over time, your coconut tree will suffer. 

A great humidifier for any of your indoor tropical plants is the Air Innovations Humidifier! This humidifier runs 100 hours and operates quietly with it’s 1.6 gallon-capacity humidifier!

Warm Temperatures

Coconut trees need heat! They grow in warm, tropical, humid climates, so if you decide to grow your own coconut tree, make sure the temperature is warm! 

All this has to mean is the temperature in the room where you’re growing your coconut tree is at no less than 70 degrees Fahrenheit, but ideally, they will grow best at 80 degrees Fahrenheit and above!

Well-Draining Soil

Coconut trees, like other tropical plants grown indoors, need well-draining, tropical plant-specific soil! Most palm trees prefer well-draining, loamy soil. Tropical plant mixtures can include perlite, earthworm castings, coconut coir, shredded bark, and more!

A popular choice of potting soil for your coconut tree is the FoxFarm FX14100 Coco Loco Potting Mix. 

Many plant owners choose FoxFarm soil for its exceptional quality, and the best thing about this tropical coconut coir potting mix is it holds its weight in water while still being well-draining! This means the plants can suck up nutrients and water as needed while reducing the probability of root rot and insects!

How Often Do Coconut Trees Bear Fruit?

Once your coconut tree becomes of mature age, which is around 6-10 years old, it will begin to bear fruit and produce coconuts year-round. However, it will take a year for coconuts to ripen once your tree flowers. 

Each coconut grows in a bunch on a coconut tree, which is part of a bunch of anywhere from 5-15 coconuts. How many coconut fruits a coconut tree produces depends on the variety and climate, including temperature, sunlight, humidity, fertilizing, and watering. 

What you use the coconuts for will determine when they get harvested. For coconut water, coconuts can be harvested 6-7 months after the coconut fruits sprout.

However, if you want to use the coconut for copra, then it takes almost half a year longer to ripen for use. Copra is from dried coconut kernels, which coconut oil is made from. 

Because coconuts grow in bunches, you can harvest the coconut bunches all at once, and all coconuts in a bunch will ripen at roughly the same time.

Can I Grow A Coconut Tree Indoors?

Indoor pots plants, next the window in the morning . Decorative palm.

Yes! You can grow a coconut tree indoors. 

Remember, coconut trees are found on or near beaches in hot, humid, sunny climates. So yes, you can grow a coconut tree indoors, but you need to give it optimal conditions of humidity, sunlight, temperature, soil, and water!

Also, a coconut tree grown indoors will grow given the right conditions, just like many other tropical house plants, but unfortunately, it will not produce any coconuts.

If you decide to move your coconut tree later on, check out 10 Best Steps For Transporting Palm Trees (And How To Do It) for some tips!

What Else Besides Watering Can Make My Coconut Tree Grow Faster?

So, you’re growing a coconut tree and it seems like it’s slowed down in growth, but how do you make it grow faster?

First, make sure you are giving your coconut tree optimal conditions: Full sun, above 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit, high humidity, and adequate watering but not over or under-watering.

If all of those conditions are good, then check out using fertilizer!

Espoma PM4 4-Pound 4-1-5 Palm-Tone Plant Food is a one of the better organic fertilizers, and this one is specifically for all palm trees! It has a 4-1-5 NPK ratio, meaning it is 4 parts nitrogen, 1 part phosphorous, and 5 parts potassium, making it a perfect fertilizer to tackle the most common nutrient deficiencies in palm trees!

What Is The Lifespan Of A Coconut Tree?

Fresh green yellowish coconut on the tree, coconut cluster on coconut palm tree with clear blue sky as background.

Did you know that coconut tree varieties have different lifespans? Dwarf coconut trees live for about 60-80 years, while tall coconut trees can live to be 80-100 years.

Let’s go a little deeper into a few facts on different cultivars of coconut trees and their lifespans.

If you’re interested in how tall your coconut tree will grow, you can read our full list in our article: Here’s How Tall Coconut Trees Actually Grow

Chowghat Orange Dwarf Coconut Tree

This dwarf coconut lives for around 50 years and will produce bright orange coconuts after 3-4 years. This coconut tree is known for the meat and water it provides.

Malayan Yellow Dwarf Coconut Tree

This coconut tree is native to Malaysia and lives anywhere between 40-50 years. Being a dwarf coconut tree cultivar, this tree only gets 30-60 feet tall and is known for its yellow coconuts.

Macapuno Coconut Tree

It is native to the Philippines and lives for up to 75 years. What is so cool about this coconut tree is its fruits have virtually no water! This is why this coconut tree is known for its use of its coconut meat for desserts, because of its soft and sweet meat.

Jamaican Tall Coconut Tree

The Jamaican tall coconut tree is robust and dense. It is known for its dark green leaves and swollen trunk base. This tree will produce anywhere from 100-200 coconuts per year and live for up to 80 years.

Tiptur Tall Coconut Tree

This coconut tree is native to India, living anywhere from 80-90 years, and producing 70-80 coconuts per year. Surprisingly, this tree needs little to no maintenance once it is established.

Panama Tall Coconut Tree

The Panama tall coconut tree, commonly known as the Pacific tall, grows up to 90 feet tall and is very tolerant of wind. It also grows well in areas where temperatures are less than optimal, below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The Panama tall, being a tall coconut tree cultivar, lives anywhere from 80-100 years.

Maypan Hybrid

The Maypan hybrid coconut tree is a cross between a Malayan dwarf and a Panama tall coconut tree and grows to be 60 feet tall. This cultivar was bred in response to a devastating disease known to coconut trees called lethal yellowing disease. This tree lives anywhere from 50-100 years.

That’s A Wrap!

Thanks for sticking around and reading all about coconut trees! Hopefully, you now know how much water coconut trees need and learned some other helpful tips on caring for your coconut tree.

The coconut tree, Cocos nucifera, is a palm and the only living species in the Cocos genus. Contrary to its name, the coconut is a fruit! Coconut palms produce anywhere from 50-200 coconut fruits each year depending on the cultivar, climate, and care.

So, if you decide to grow a coconut tree indoors, give it optimal conditions. Doing this will give you the most chance at success.

Optimal conditions mean 70% or more humidity, with the help of a humidifier, temperatures over 75 degrees Fahrenheit, try the warmest room in your house, a bathroom, or put it outside in the summer. Also, proper soil, a loamy, well-draining soil mixture, proper watering, moist not overly wet, and make sure it is in full sunlight, meaning at least 6 hours of sunlight per day! 

References: 

Gunn, Bee F., Luc Baudouin, and Kenneth M. Olsen. “Independent origins of cultivated coconut (Cocos nucifera L.) in the old world tropics.” Plos one 6.6 (2011): e21143.

Nayar, N. Madhavan. The coconut: phylogeny, origins, and spread. Academic Press, 2016.

Peiris, T. S. G., R. O. Thattil, and R. Mahindapala. “An analysis of the effect of climate and weather on coconut (Cocos nucifera).” Experimental Agriculture 31.4 (1995): 451-460.

Yong, Jean WH, et al. “The chemical composition and biological properties of coconut (Cocos nucifera L.) water.” Molecules 14.12 (2009): 5144-5164.

Row of cedar trees to the shrine

5 Simple Tips For Trimming A Cedar Tree

As you are probably aware, trees need maintenance. Cedar trees are no exception to this rule and, though they are a relatively low-maintenance plant, you should keep up with their care. If you are looking for some important tips about how and why you should trim your cedar tree, you have ended up in the right spot!

In general, when trimming a cedar tree you’ll want to keep 5 important things in mind:

  1. Locate which area of your tree needs trimming
  2. Sanitize your shears before you trim
  3. Keep your tools sharp
  4. Avoid trimming too much off the top
  5. Use the proper pruning shears

Before we dive into the methods to keep in mind when trimming a cedar tree, let’s discuss what might be going through your mind right about now. Why do we bother trimming our cedar trees in the first place?

Why Do You Need To Trim Cedar Trees?

Before reading on and learning about the process involved in trimming (or pruning) a cedar tree, we should talk about why these things are necessary to begin with. 

First up, trimming and pruning are going to be used pretty interchangeably here today. It’s worth mentioning that there is a difference between these two practices. 

What are the differences? Keep on reading to find out!

To avoid confusion, though, trimming and pruning are the same process, just with a different motive.

You may not have to trim some cedar trees as often as you think! Some varieties are among the slowest growing trees, which you can see here Slowest Growing Trees (And Why They Grow So Slow).

1. Makes The Cedar Tree Look Good

Trimming has more to do with the appearance of a tree and promoting healthy growth. 

You can think of this as a preemptive tactic to ensure your cedar tree looks good and grows well. 

Trimming may have to do with a branch here or there, or it may be an effort to allow your tree to put its energy into growing taller rather than wider, for example.

2. Limits Cedar Tree Overgrowth

Pruning a tree is done in the same way, but this is more of a curative technique. 

Cedar trees are pruned in response to disease, overgrowth, and other things already affecting the tree.

Now, we can talk about why one might need to trim or prune a tree. Most of these reasons can be preventative or curative, so it is up to your situation to decide if you are ‘pruning’ or ‘trimming’ a tree.

3. Promotes Healthy Cedar Tree Growth 

Since taking action ahead of time is ideal, you can prune your cedar tree even if there is no current sign of disease. 

In doing so, you will help to keep the branches healthy and your tree will flourish as it grows into a resilient organism. 

Unkempt cedar trees are more susceptible to disease and other issues. Since they are not as prepared to fight disease, they will struggle more than a well-trimmed tree will.

If there already have been some signs of disease, pruning your tree can help you nip that problem in the bud by removing any infected branches or sections of your cedar tree.

4. Avoids Overcrowding Of Branches

Cedar trees are often more susceptible to issues when they are not trimmed because overcrowding of branches allows for disease, parasites, and more to spread rapidly throughout the entire canopy.

By trimming your cedar tree regularly, you can avoid this overcrowding. This creates a healthy amount of space between branches for your tree to grow and get the sunlight and air it needs most. 

This has benefits beyond the overall health of your tree, though. By keeping the crowding to a minimum, your tree will also look more maintained.

5. Keeps Your Cedar Tree Looking Maintained 

An aesthetic appeal may be your primary goal for growing a cedar tree. It also may be something you have never considered. 

No matter which side you lean toward, a happy and healthy cedar tree looks better. 

You can trim your tree and get so many benefits from just this one action. 

Now, your branches will not be overcrowded, but your cedar tree itself is likely to look more maintained, if not carefully sculpted, for the intention of appearance. 

What else is trimming your tree good for, beyond disease avoidance and visual appeal? 

Well, general growth, of course!

6. Encourages General Growth And Cedar Tree Structure As It Ages

While it is important to think about things such as best and worse case scenarios, things your cedar tree gets attention over or even worse case scenario for your cedar tree, the middle ground is key. 

Trimming a cedar tree can significantly help it maintain its ability to grow over a period because you keep it healthy and cared for. 

The structure of the cedar tree also benefits when branches are kept relatively even, and your cedar has the chance to focus its energy on growth and self-maintenance rather than fighting disease or being weighed to one side. So, if you want your cedar tree to reach it’s natural lifespan of 100-150 years, pruning is crucial.

Even if you are at the point where you have to prune a tree to solve some issues, your tree will reap this benefit, regardless. So worth it!

5 Simple Tips To Know When Trimming Your Cedar Tree

professional gardener pruning a cedar tree with ladder

Alright, get excited! It’s the moment you’ve been waiting for: the 5 best tips for trimming cedar trees.

We know it has been a journey to get to this point, but the background knowledge above could play a big role in how successful your trimming and/or pruning efforts are.

Here are a few steps you can take to ensure you are trimming your cedar tree effectively. 

Of course, like anything, there will always be a bit of variability depending on your situation and your tree (or trees, we don’t know!)

They are pretty standard places to start, though, so we feel confident that you will leave this piece feeling ready to care for your cedar like never before. 

Without further ado, the 5 things to keep in mind:

1. Locate Which Area Needs Trimming

Cedar trees have live zones and dead zones. It is important to know that pruning around dead zones can cause more problems and your tree will risk permanent deformation. 

You should search the live zone of the tree to see what dead parts you need to prune away.

The University of Idaho Extension explains the dead zone is that part of the tree branches closest to the trunk where leaves may not grow or branches may differ from their external-facing relatives. 

You should locate the live zone, where leaves are actively and clearly growing, and see what dead branches or sections may need to be removed within that part of the cedar tree’s foliage.  

2. Sanitize Shears

The University of Missouri’s IMP helps us out here by telling us about the following ways to sanitize shears between uses. 

Not only does this preserve your shears for longer, keeping them from rusting at a young age, but it also helps to keep any disease from accidentally being spread between different trees.

Two of the main types of alcohol you can use for sanitation are ethanol or isopropyl. You can simply wipe the blades without needing much of a second thought.

Both types of alcohol can be found at the grocery store pharmacy. So, keep an eye out for labels and prices before you decide on one. 

If you own rubbing alcohol, this typically will contain a high isopropyl alcohol content which you can use to disinfect and shine your blades after just a few moments. So, save a little cash and use what you have on hand.

You can also combine 9 parts of water with one part bleach, though this takes longer to make and requires the blades to soak. Realistically, you will want to stick with the alcohol option.

Regardless of which method you are comfortable with or have access to, sanitizing your tools is an essential part of the pruning/trimming process. 

Taking care of your tree is minimized when you use tools that might spread disease and actively harm new plants. 

3. Keep Tools Sharp

This may not be something that you think of right off the bat. That’s okay, most people probably don’t. 

However, keeping your tools sharp is a huge part of successfully trimming your cedar tree. Dull blades can also give way to significant damage. 

Think of it like this- instead of resulting in a clean cut, using dull blades will cause rough, uneven ones. Your bark (and what’s left of the branch) might tear more because of this, and larger wounds will appear.

Hopefully, by now you can see the direct correlation between the size of a wound, the time it takes to heal, and how a tree is extra susceptible to problems during that healing stage.

4. Avoid Trimming Too Much Off The Top Of Your Cedar Tree

Taking too much off the top of your tree, also known as topping a tree, most often occurs when a tree has bypassed the area it was expected to fill. 

To avoid this and consider where you planted your tree to begin with. 

However, we know this is not likely something in your control unless you have lived on or owned land for decades. 

So, when topping/trimming a cedar tree, you should be careful to never take more than ¼ of the tree’s entire height. Trimming as little as possible from the top is ideal. 

The top of the cedar tree grows back at a painstakingly slow pace, so you will want to be prepared for this new appearance for a good amount of time.

5. Use The Proper Pruning Tools

If you use a good pair of bypass hand pruners like these Gonicc 8” Professional Premium Titanium Bypass Pruning Shears, your tree will be in good hands. These small hand trimmers can cut through 3/4 inch branches, depending on species.

If you need a little further reach, this Fiskars PowerGear2 Bypass Lopper will surely do the trick. They are 32 inches long, and can cut through branches 2 inches thick with ease.

Both products are meant for trimming and pruning trees, so you will have the right tools for your needs.

Just do not forget what we said above about keeping those tools clean… and sharp!

Keeping Cedar Trees Healthy Long-Term

Five cedars of Lebanon (cedrus libani) in the hill on blue sky in summer

While the preventative trimming and curative pruning practices are important to helping your cedar live a long life full of growth, they are not the only factors to be considered. 

Here are a few other things to keep in mind when caring for a cedar tree:

Keep Your Cedar Tree Hydrate

Like every other plant, cedar trees need water. They must receive enough water to help them make use of things like nutrients, sunlight, and other things that help them grow.

Even if all other factors are just right, a lack of water creates a big issue when it comes to the ability of a cedar tree to maintain a stable growth rate.  

Especially if you live in a region with less rainfall. This is something you should always keep in the back of your mind.

Sprinklers used at intervals throughout the day can help to keep this shallow-rooted plant hydrated without being over-watered. 

You might try this Orbit Battery Operated Sprinkler Timer with a Valve to regulate your tree’s hydration levels. It can run 4 stations with up to 8 start times. It can also run from 1-240 minutes at a time.

As long as the soil remains moist, but does not have pools of water, you should be in good shape!

Keep Your Cedar Tree Fertilized

A 30-10-10 fertilizer is great for cedar trees. 

Yeah, great, but…what is that??

Those 3 numbers you see above are called an NPK value. This is a formula that deals with the nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium levels of fertilizer.

As you can now see, this formula has a balanced amount of potassium and phosphorus while containing less nitrogen, because cedars do not need as much of it. 

The NPK ratio allows for plants to get the nutrients they need, as opposed to potentially wasting nutrients. If a tree does not need certain nutrients, it will not absorb them.

If you are looking to get a good 30-30-10 fertilizer, we recommend you start with this Southern Ag Max Acid Water Soluble Fertilizer. Not only does it offer just the right NPK ratio, but it is also water-soluble, which is an important factor when talking about fertilizing cedar trees.

Why Is Trimming Cedar Trees Important?

tree climbing, ropes on tree for climbing cedar pruning

Alright, finally, before we can discuss the important factors to keep in mind while trimming or pruning cedar trees, we need to mention why proper pruning matters so much. 

Improperly pruned cedar trees can pose a threat to the community for a few reasons. We want you to have this information so you do not waste time, money, or effort to get the best results.

Avoiding Undue Stress On Your Cedar Tree

If you improperly prune your cedar tree, you open it up to many stressors, which are unhealthy at best and detrimental at worst. 

Instead of helping (or saving) a tree, improper pruning practices can cause more damage than existed at the start. 

If you cut the cedar tree too close to or too far from the trunk, your tree will be the subject of irreversible damage. 

What does it mean, though?

The California Rare Fruit Growers help define these types of cuts, between a stub cut and a flush cut.

A stub cut is a cut made too far outside of the branch collar (too far from the trunk of the tree.) 

The remaining stub will have enough material left to become diseased as the stub itself decays. This presents a problem when the disease spreads to the rest of the healthy cedar tree.

A flush cut is the exact opposite, where the cut is far too close to the trunk. This cut has been made inside of the branch collar, which causes unnecessary damage to the stem tissues of the cedar tree.

So, if you cut too close to the trunk, it will leave the open wound on the cedar tree where the branch once sat open for longer. The time this kind of cut can take to heal leads to damage such as cracks, decay, and other fissures in the tree trunk.

Essentially, if you cut a cedar branch too much or too little, decay is imminent.

This is a great example of why it is so important to do your research or, if you are most comfortable, enlist the help of an expert.

Limits Potential Weakening Of A Branch That Could Fall Later

On the same note about how issues in pruning can lead to decay, decay can lead to other parts of your tree severely weakening. 

Not only is this not healthy, but it is also dangerous. Eventually, with little warning, a cedar branch could very well fall from the tree and cause a boatload of problems.

We’ll leave you with those notes for now, but trust us when we tell you that taking the time to prune correctly is so worth the effort. Not only for you and your tree but for those around you.

That’s A Wrap!

Alright, well, that’s what we’ve got for you today. 

We hope this helps you as you work to care for your cedar tree in the best way. 

Thank you for taking the time to read this piece!

Best of luck as you continue along your tree journey, and remember- we are always here to help guide you along the way. 

Until next time, cheers.

References

Badrulhisham, N., & Othman, N. (2016). Knowledge in tree pruning for sustainable practices in urban setting: improving our quality of life. Procedia-Social and Behavioral Sciences, 234, 210-217.

Drenou, C. (2000). Pruning trees: the problem of forks. Journal of Arboriculture, 26(5), 264-269.

Kojima, Y., Kato, Y., Takeda, H., & Yoon, S. L. (2013). Changes of extractives in pruning shoot of Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica) during storing and pelletizing. Transactions of the Materials Research Society of Japan, 38(3), 467-471.

ripe walnuts on the tree

Here’s How Often Walnut Trees Actually Bear Walnuts

Walnut trees are rather distinctive because of their large, baseball-sized green fruit. Inside those fruits are some of the most delicious nuts: walnuts! But just how often do walnut trees produce walnuts?

Walnut trees will bear fruit once per year. However, the amount will vary each year. Occasionally, walnuts will not produce any fruits during the growing season because of stressors such as drought, pests, or lack of nutrients. Walnut trees bear walnuts around 7 years of age.

There are many trees in the walnut family, each with its unique characteristics. Let’s check them out and talk about how often you can expect walnuts on your tree!

Which Walnut Trees Produce Walnuts?

Walnut trees are found throughout the world in temperate and warm climates. There are a variety of different species, but only certain types are available in the US.

The four most common trees that produce walnuts in North America include:

  • Black walnut
  • English walnut
  • Butternut (white walnut)
  • Heartnut

All walnut trees produce walnuts, but the number of nuts produced will depend on the weather and the available nutrients. 

Walnuts are cold-sensitive according to Utah State University. They don’t like super cold springs or early frosts in fall. One exception is the heartnut tree, which is native to Japan and is cold-hardy.

Their sensitivity to cold means that walnut trees may bear less fruit when the area they grow has late frosts in the spring or early frosts in the fall before the tree has time to harden off.

Black walnut and English walnut are the two most popular trees used for nut production. California is the country’s number 1 walnut producer. Oregon and Utah are two more states that produce walnuts, among others.

The walnut that most of us recognize and eat is from the English walnut tree. Black walnuts are still grown and used for nut production, but the shells are more difficult to crack and the taste is far bolder than that of an English walnut.

These commercially important trees are grown in orchards similar to how apples or other fruit trees are grown. Orchards keep the trees smaller than their natural height of over 100 feet. 

Orchard walnut trees are chosen selectively based on their trait to yield high amounts of nuts and resist pests and disease. 

Those who have a walnut tree in their backyard may observe low walnut yields, which could be because of the genetic makeup of the tree or the conditions under which it grows

Or your walnut tree might drive you crazy because it produces too many walnuts!

How Often Do Walnut Trees Bear Fruits/Walnuts?

Walnuts in the wooden bowl on the table under the walnut tree.

If it seems like we are interchanging the word fruit and nut in this article, it’s because we are! Nuts are considered the fruit of the walnut tree.

If you don’t believe me, the U.S Forest Service even defines nuts like walnuts as fruits as they have a single dry seed, hard shell, and protective husk.

Nut-bearing trees produce nuts enclosed in some kind of protective husk, which is then protected by another outside layer. This last layer is leathery or waxy.

In the case of the walnut tree, the outer layer can be green or a washed-out yellow-green color. The inner ‘nut meat’, as it’s called, is the actual walnut. 

Walnuts are an important food source for wild critters as well. Squirrels especially like to nab walnuts and hide them away for winter.

So, how often can you expect your backyard walnut to bear these delicious and healthy fruits, nuts, whatever you want to call them?

Walnut trees will produce a crop of walnuts every year starting around age 7 to 15, depending on the species. High yields occur about every 2 to 3 years, with low yields in between.

The best nut yields will not occur until the tree is over 20 years of age.

If you want to learn more about how many walnuts you can expect on your tree, check out our piece, How Many Walnuts Grow On A Tree? Full Walnut Timeline.

Why Isn’t My Walnut Tree Producing Any Walnuts?

Have a walnut tree, but it’s not producing any nuts? What gives? 

If your walnut tree does not seem to produce any nuts or the yields have been consistently low, there are several reasons this is happening.

Late Frost

Grape vines and old walnut tree in frost

We mentioned earlier walnut trees are not big fans of cold weather. They need plenty of time to prepare for winter by slowing production and growth when the days get shorter.

The same can be said for spring. Walnut trees may bloom too early in the spring and then the blooms are killed off by a late frost in April. In this case, the flowers and catkins needed for pollination will not bloom. Without pollination, the fruits will not develop.

Lack Of Nutrients

Nutrients are important for any tree to survive and thrive. Fertilizers are typically packed with the nutrients that trees need, such as phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium, depending on the species.

Once a tree is established, it does not need any help to get the nutrients it needs because the roots of the tree can extrapolate the minerals from the soil.

However, some soils that are disturbed by humans will lack proper nutrients for walnut trees. Leaf litter is an important organic material that is degraded in the winter and absorbed into the soil, providing nutrients for the tree the next year.

In areas like HOA suburban neighborhoods or cities where leaf litter is required to be picked up, trees will suffer more because of it.

If a walnut tree cannot get the proper nutrients it needs, it cannot transport them to the stems and leaves, and the tree will struggle to produce fruits and new buds.

According to the University of Missouri Center for Agroforestry, the most important nutrients for a walnut tree are:

  • Nitrogen
  • Phosphorus
  • Potassium
  • Calcium
  • Magnesium
  • Iron
  • Manganese
  • Zinc
  • Boron
  • Copper

If your walnut tree is struggling to produce fruit and you notice some browning leaves or early leaf drop, your tree may need some fertilizer to help it out.

You can purchase something like Jobe’s Organics Tree Spikes for Fruit and Nuts. This product comes as a spike, which you hammer into the ground around your walnut tree’s dripline.

The spikes offer a constant, slow release of the required nutrients your walnut tree needs. It comes with a pack of 8, so you can surround your tree with the spikes, keeping your tree happy and healthy.

Some reviews mention dogs like to dig up the spikes, so check your work every few days to make sure Fido is not getting into trouble!

Pests

There are hundreds of different pest insects to all kinds of different trees. Beetles, caterpillars, ants, flies, and mealybugs can all affect trees, among others.

The walnut husk fly is the most common pest of walnut trees. After emerging from the soil in July, adult husk flies will mate and lay eggs beneath the surface of the walnut husk. Once the eggs hatch, the maggots (gross) feed on the walnut husk for a few weeks.

Once they are rolly-polly from eating the husk, the maggots drop to the soil to pupate and start the entire process over.

The walnuts of your tree are still edible despite the flies and their maggots, but the nuts are often stained black and are unsightly. If you know maggots have touched the nut, would you want to eat it?

While pests may not cause your walnut tree to produce less fruit, they may cause the nuts to be uncollectable or useless.

There are a few ways you can control these pesky husk flies so they do not bother your walnut tree.

  • Remove All Fallen Nuts: Picking up all the fallen nuts as soon as they fall can remove some of the larvae still on the nuts, reducing next year’s population.
  • Use Traps Paired With Spray: You can use sticky fly traps to gauge when the adult husk flies are emerging from the soil. Once the traps fill up with the flies, it’s time to use a spray to keep them off your walnut tree.

A sticky trap like Trappify’s Hanging Fly Stick Trap will work great at attracting the husk flies and trapping them. It comes with a hook so you can hang it from any branch of your walnut tree or on a nearby shepherd’s hook.

As soon as you notice husk flies lurking about, use a spray like Monterey’s Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad Concentrate. This is a concentrated product, so it will need to be mixed with water. 

Always follow the directions on the label for the proper mixing levels.

It is okay to use this product directly on your tree as it is approved for organic gardening. Pairing the trap with the spray is a great idea if the first two suggestions do not seem to work for your husk fly problem.

Alternating Pollination Periods

Another reason your walnut tree is not producing as many nuts is because of the lack of pollination.

Walnut trees are monoecious, meaning both the male and female parts are present on the tree. This typically means that the tree can self-pollinate.

However, with the walnut tree, self-pollination does not always happen. The male may disperse its pollen when the female flowers are not receptive. If the trees cannot pollinate, fruits will not form.

How Many Years Will A Walnut Tree Produce Walnuts For?

Ripe walnut inside his cracked green husk in nut cluster among the leaves on walnut tree in orchard close-up in selective focus

Whether you enjoy gathering fallen walnuts or cannot stand them littering your yard, at some point your walnut tree will age and slow down.

In orchards, walnut trees only last for about 35 years, according to the University of California, Davis. In the wild, walnut trees can live for hundreds of years, but on average they last around 200 years.

If your walnut tree is young, do not expect it to stop producing nuts soon. 

As all trees age, they slow their growth, and eventually, growth becomes minuscule. This is about when a tree reaches its maximum height. At this point, walnut trees will continue to produce fruits, but the yields will be much lower than when the tree was a strapping young adult.

The walnut tree will struggle to defy gravity to transport water and nutrients to the rest of the tree, which will limit flowering and therefore fruit production.

How To Make A Walnut Tree Not Produce Walnuts

The large fruits of a walnut tree can dent cars, thump noggins, and surprise the heck out of you if you’re walking beneath a tree while the fruit is falling.

Not to mention, walnut fruits will litter your lawn as they fall, creating a mess of green and blackened fruits and husks. Is there any way to stop this from happening?

If you are not interested in collecting the walnuts and would rather not litter your yard with them, there are a couple of things you can do.

Use Fertilizer

This may seem counterproductive. After all, doesn’t fertilizer help trees grow faster and provide more nutrients?

Well, that’s kind of the point. We want to flood the tree with nutrients to promote new growth.

The more energy the tree is putting into growing, the less energy it is putting into fruit production. Fertilizers rich in nitrogen should do the trick!

Clip New Walnut Blooms

This option is only viable while the tree is young. You can use a pruning tool to clip off new blossoms in the spring. 

This prevents the flowers from ever blooming, which means no pollination, which means no messy walnuts to clean up in the fall.

Cut Down Walnut Saplings

Squirrels help propagate walnut trees all over the place. They bury their nuts in the soil and then forget about them. These buried nuts then grow into new walnut trees.

As the saplings emerge, you’ll want to clip, cut, or saw them down. Having more than one black walnut tree in your yard increases the chance of wind pollinating, which will increase fruit yields. 

While the tree itself can self-pollinate, yields are smaller than if more walnut trees are around to help with pollination.

Black walnut trees may harm your garden as well. This might drive you to get rid of them on your property. To learn more, take a look at 20 Plants Not To Grow Under A Black Walnut Tree.

How Do I Know What Kind Of Walnut Tree Is In My Yard?

If there are tons of varieties of walnut trees, how are you supposed to know which walnut you have growing in your backyard?

Black walnuts are the most common walnut trees in the wild. Butternut trees will also grow in the wild but are not as common as black walnuts. English walnut trees are grown strictly in orchards and are not common to see in the wild.

If you’d like to learn more about the difference specifically between black walnut trees and other walnut varieties, take a look at our article: 8 Differences Between Black Walnut Trees and Walnut Trees.

Let’s check out some differences between these two trees so you know exactly which tree is littering your yard with fruits and nut husks!

Walnut Tree Height

Height at maturity is a big indicator. Black walnut trees will grow up to 100 feet, while a butternut tree’s maximum height is only 60 feet.

However, if your tree is not fully grown, it can be difficult to tell the difference between the two, as they have many similar characteristics.

Walnut Tree Fruit

Another way to tell the difference between black walnut and butternut trees is to check out the actual nuts once they fall off.

Black walnuts are round, while butternut walnuts thin out at the ends in a tear-drop. Sometimes they will have points at both ends, and sometimes one end is rounded while the other is more pointed.

Walnut Tree Bark

Just like height, the bark of your walnut tree may be difficult to distinguish when the tree is young. But if your tree is mature, the bark should appear different between the two.

Black walnut trees typically have heavily furrowed, dark brown bark. Butternut walnuts, or white walnuts, have smooth greyish white bark

That’s A Wrap!

As this article comes to a close, you should be packed to the gills with walnut knowledge! Who knew there was so much to know about walnut trees?

To recap, walnut trees will bear fruit once per year, ripening in the fall. High yields of walnuts happen every 2 to 3 years, with low production in between.

You can expect your walnut tree to continue producing nuts through its lifespan, but as the tree ages, fruit production will continually decrease. If you do not want the walnuts at all, there are a few steps you can take to lessen or eliminate walnut production.

References

Avanzato, D. (2010). TRADITIONAL AND MODERN USES OF WALNUT. Acta Hortic. 861, 89-96 DOI: 10.17660/ActaHortic.2010.861.11

Cannella, C. and Dernini, S. (2005). WALNUT: INSIGHTS AND NUTRITIONAL VALUE. Acta Hortic. 705, 547-550 DOI: 10.17660/ActaHortic.2005.705.80

Chudhary, Z., Khera, R. A., Hanif, M. A., Ayub, M. A., & Hamrouni, L. (2020). Chapter 49 – Walnut. Medicinal Plants of South Asia, 671-684.

Mamadjanov, D.K. (2005). WALNUT FRUIT FORESTS AND DIVERSITY OF WALNUT TREE (JUGLANS REGIA L.) IN KYRGYZSTAN. Acta Hortic. 705, 173-176 DOI: 10.17660/ActaHortic.2005.705.20

Molyneux, R. J., Mahoney, N., Kim, J. H., & Campbell, B. C. (2007, October 20). Mycotoxins in edible tree nuts. International Journal of Food Microbiology, 119(1-2), 72-78.

background of birch forest trees green spring

Do All Birch Trees Have White Bark? Identification Tips

Birch trees are hardy and adaptive trees, making them a favorite among gardeners and landscapers. They aren’t giant trees, growing only to a small or medium height of up to 80 feet, and come in several different colors.  

There are 18 species of birch trees in North America, with only several species having white bark. The most common birch trees with purely white bark are paper birch and silver birch trees. Birch trees have white bark so they can reflect sunlight during the winter when inactive.

In this article, we’ll review the different ways to identify birch trees, no matter the color of the bark. Then we’ll talk about the common varieties of birch trees and the best way to care for them if you have them within your landscape. Let’s get started!

​​Why Are Some Birch Trees White?

This answer to this question lies in how certain birch trees are naturally distributed across the country. The famous white color of birch trees does have a purpose: to reflect light and therefore heat away from the tree.

Birch trees that have white bark are usually found in the Northern areas of North America. During the winter, the warming of a birch tree’s bark is not a good thing – it can cause the internal temperatures within the tree to fluctuate and degrade. 

Extreme variations in temperature – like from warm to extreme cold – can cause white-barked birch trees to experience internal deterioration and even tree death. However, the light-colored, highly reflective bark protects these birch trees from winter injury. Interesting!

If you’re interested in learning more about birch tree growth, check out our article 4 Reasons Why Birch Trees Can’t Grow In The Shade

Common White Birch Tree Varieties

White bark birch tree trunk

Paper Birch Tree 

The most popular, and recognizable, white-bark tree is the Paper Birch. Paper Birch grows in the northern and central areas of North America and has beautiful iconic bark. 

This birch tree’s bark is actually a dark color when it’s young, but as it grows and matures, it’s bark turns white and begins to peel aggressively. In fact, the bark of a paper birch tree sheds so often that the bark was often used to make bark canoes by Native Americans. 

This species can grow up to 60- feet tall but is relatively short lived. Paper birch trees are susceptible to boring insects, like the bronze birch borer. This tree is often passed over by landscapers due to their vulnerabilities to fungus and pests. We’ll discuss the bronze birch borer at the end of this article!

You’ll also notice that the bark on a paper birch tree actually gives off the texture of paper and that it sheds overtime. However, you should NOT peel of birch tree bark prematurely. You can learn more about why you shouldn’t peel off birch tree bark here.

Silver Birch Tree 

The Silver Birch Tree, also known as a White Birch Tree, is similar to the paper birch but has a slightly weeping appearance and doesn’t have peeling bark. It’s commonly used in landscapes as shade trees because of it’s beautiful appearance and its reputation to attract wildlife to the garden.

Silver birch is vulnerable to certain fungi which makes the tree less likely to be planted in yards.

If you have a silver birch within your landscape that is experiencing any issues, we encourage you to contact a local tree expert that can help you with your specific case as many silver birch issues don’t resolve themselves.

Common Brown Birch Tree Varieties

Brown birch trunk

There are a number of birch tree varieties that come in different colors than the recognizable white. These types of birch trees typically haave thicker bark than their white-barked cousins and are a bit hardier in certain environments.

River Birch Tree

The River Birch, also known as the Water Birch, is native to the Eastern United States and can be found as far as north Florida. River birch trees are commonly found near water sources such as swamps, floodplains, and river banks. It’s one of the few heat-tolerant birch tree species and thrive in zones 6 and up.

River birches are commonly grown in landscapes that need assistance with erosion control. Unlike many types of hardwood trees, it’s well suited to a variety of soil types, including soil that can be particularly acidic.

There are certain varieties of River Birch that do have lighter shades of bark that are selected for landscape use and are resistant to the bronze birch borer – which is notable. 

River birches are also a popular tree among wildlife, like songbirds and many types of waterfowl – these trees are primarily used as nesting sites in the spring and summer. 

River birches are also used for the essential oils found within their leaves and inner bark. The oils within are known to have insecticidal and antibacterial properties. 

North American Birch Tree Characteristics 

There are approximately 18 birch tree species that are native to North America. North American birch tree varieties have similar characteristics, despite their variation in bark and leaf colors. 

For example, birch trees tend to be small to medium-sized and can generally be found in open, grassy or meadowy areas. 

In forestry, birch trees are known as a “pioneer” species, along with poplars, alders, and willow trees. They’ve earned that nickname by being some of the first trees to colonize open areas that lack vegetation. 

Some examples of areas that birches will colonize are abandoned farmland, meadows, and areas devastated by forest fires – these areas are prime real estate for birch trees. They also grow in clumps of 2 to 4 trees and establish forest canopies quickly in these ideal environments.

Birch Tree Leaves, Flowers, And Fruit

One tried and true way to identify birch trees is by paying attention to their leaf shape, flowers, and fruit.

Birch Tree Leaves

Birch leaves in the sunlight

All birch trees are deciduous, meaning they lose their leaves in the late fall and winter. In saying that, when these trees do have their leaves, you can use them to help identify birch trees species in the wild. 

Birch tree leaves are egg-shaped with serrated and double-toothed points on the tips of the leaves. In the fall, the leaves can turn a variety of stunning colors like vibrant gold, fiery red, or burnt orange. 

Birch Tree Flowers And Fruit

Birch branch with catkins

Before bearing their fruit, birch trees produce long, slender flowers, more commonly known as catkins. These long clusters of flowers will eventually turn into a flat fruit known as samaras. 

Samaras fruit is small, flat, and winged, which allows the fruit to be carried by the wind for short distances. The shape of the seed is part of the reason that birch trees can spread voraciously within ideal growing conditions.

Treatments And Management For Bronze Birch Borer Infestation

The bronze birch borer is a species of beetle that feeds on most birch trees species. Signs of an infestation can include little to no foliage in the spring or summer, off-color leaves, dead branches at the top of the tree, and small D-shaped holes in the bark. 

If you live in an area where these insects can be an issue, you can help your birch tree resist birch borers by fertilizing it annually every spring. Try using an organic mulch, and this Purely Organic Tree & Shrub Fertilizer. The fertilizer spikes will fertilize continuously until the following year and are easy to install.

According to Oregan State University, If your birch trees show signs of this beetle, you must first assess the damage level. If less than 50% of the tree canopy appears to be affected, the tree can be saved. 

The larva of this beetle affects the birch tree, as they hide within the tree and feed on the softwood innards of the tree. The best way to control this pest is through tree injection pesticides, which are usually only available to licensed pest control companies. 

If you are experiencing this pest within your landscape, we encourage you to contact a local expert to work with you to save your birch tree!

That’s A Wrap!

Birch trees come in many different sizes and colors. While the paper birch species is the most famous species of birch tree, birch tree bark comes in a spectrum of color. 

Birch trees, across species have a few distinct characteristics to look out for: 

  • Birch tree leaves are egg shaped with serrated edges on the tips
  • Birch trees are deciduous and lose their leaves in the winter
  • Birch trees are “pioneer” species, and can take over open areas. You will usually find wild birch trees growing close together.
  • When birch trees bloom they produce long slender catkins that turn into fruit called samaras.

Best of luck in your tree identification journey!

References

Dehelean, C., Pînzaru, S. C., Peev, C., Soica, C., & Antal, D. S. (2007). Characterization of birch tree leaves, buds and bark dry extracts with antitumor activity. Journal of optoelectronics and advanced materials, 9(3), 783. 

Karels, T. J., & Boonstra, R. (2003). Reducing Solar Heat Gain during Winter: The Role of White Bark in Northern Deciduous Trees. Arctic, 56(2), 168–174.

Katovich, S. (1997). How to grow and maintain a healthy birch tree. USDA Forest Serv., Northeastern Area State and Private Forestry, Newtown Square, PA. 21 p. 

Lines, R. (1984). Man’s use of birch—past and present. Proceedings of the Royal Society of Edinburgh, Section B: Biological Sciences, 85(1-2), 203-213.

S.A. Katovich. (2000). Bronze Birch Borer. Forest Insect and Disease Leaflet 111. 

Here’s How Evergreens Grow During The Winter And Year-Round

Winter is the season when just about everything shuts down. Pools are closing, outdoor sports are done, and trees lose their leaves and go dormant for the winter. But evergreens do not lose their leaves in the fall, so how do they grow year round and during the winter?

Evergreens will grow during the winter and year-round. They do not lose their leaves or needles and can photosynthesize all year round. Photosynthesis is important for tree growth, as without the leaves and needles staying on the trees, evergreens could not grow all year round.

It is always nice to see a little greenery in the winter. In this article, we will cover how evergreens keep growing despite the cold weather. Let’s get to it!

How Do Evergreens Survive And Grow During Winter?

Not all evergreens are pine trees. There are plenty of evergreens that are shrubs and herbs like rhododendron and sedge. Other evergreen trees include American holly and Eastern red cedar, just to name a few.

There are also tropical evergreens such as some ferns and trees that are well adapted to areas with high rainfall.

These plants have the remarkable ability to continue growing while their neighbors die off or go dormant. So, how do evergreens grow during the winter while other trees do not?

Evergreen Trees Keep Their Leaves And Needles

One of the most delightful things about evergreens is seeing a bit of color and life in the dreary winter months. But it makes you wonder – why aren’t all trees evergreen if it means they can grow year-round?

Having leaves on a tree is extremely helpful in the warm months, but can be a liability in the cold months. The more leaves a tree has, the more water and nutrients it needs to keep the leaves healthy and alive.

This is not a problem in the spring and summer since rich minerals are being added to the soil, plenty of rain saturates the soil, and the sun is plentiful. As the ground grows colder and the environment gets dry, trees can die off quickly if they don’t protect themselves.

Just like how some animals hibernate in the winter and others grow a thick coat to keep warm, some trees survive by losing their leaves and going dormant while others, evergreens, use adaptation to survive.

Whether it’s mountain laurel or towering spruce, evergreens keep their leaves and needles instead of shedding them like deciduous trees. 

Although, wouldn’t it mean the tree has to work extra hard to keep the leaves alive? Yes, but a few characteristics of the leaves help evergreens survive during the winter:

  • Shape: Evergreens in colder climates typically have needles. Needles are shaped so they do not catch the wind as broad-leafed trees do. This helps the tree stay upright during icy snowstorms.
  • Coating: The needles and leaves of evergreens have a waxy coating. This helps retain moisture far better than a deciduous tree leaf. This is especially important during the dry winter months.
  • Texture: Needles are not enjoyable to eat. Birds, deer, and insects all shy away from the needles of evergreens unless they are very desperate for food. This helps protect the tree from browsing.
  • Leaf-drop: Despite the name, evergreens do not keep their leaves indefinitely. Every 2-4 years, needles and leaves will drop off the plant and be replaced by new ones. However, because the leaves only drop every couple of years, they can capture sunlight for photosynthesis all year round.

So, evergreen trees keep their leaves all year. How does it help the tree grow during the winter? According to the Carnegie Museum of Natural History, photosynthesis is the key:

6CO2 + 6H2O → C6H12O6 + 6O2

Right… In simple terms, trees use their leaves to perform photosynthesis. The product of photosynthesis, sugar, is then converted into starch, and starch makes trees grow.

According to the Portland Government, for photosynthesis to take place, the tree needs three things:

  • Sunlight
  • Water
  • Carbon dioxide

The sunlight part of the equation is how the leaves help. They use chlorophyll to capture sunlight. Incidentally, the chlorophyll gives evergreens their eternally green color, too!

For information on what types of trees fall into the evergreen category, check out 6 Different Trees That Keep Their Leaves All Year.

Evergreens Use Snow To Keep Warm

Nothing about this title makes sense, right? Using snow to keep warm?! But it’s true: Evergreens that live in colder climates use snow to keep warm.

Have you ever been inside an igloo? Few have, but they can get pretty toasty inside, up into the ‘60s sometimes. Igloos use the same concept as trees – snow for warmth.

Snow comes in all shapes and sizes, but the basic stuff that makes up snow remains the same – water. Crystalized water to be exact. And the area around the crystals contains an extremely important element: air!

The air pockets around the crystalized water provide tons of insulation, especially when warmed by body heat. Sleeping bags, liners, and pads use the same concept to help keep you warm when sleeping on the ground.

Even though all snow is crystalized water, not all snow is the same. There’s wet snow and fluffy snow. Fluffy snow is the best type of snow for insulation because it is less dense than wet snow and therefore contains more air. More air = more insulation.

Evergreens thrive more during snowy winters than they do in dry, sunny winters. The blanket of snow around the evergreens acts as a blanket over the roots. This keeps the soil around the roots warm, preventing the roots from dying off.

Roots are the main gatherer of water, one of the three key elements of photosynthesis. Without water, trees cannot grow or hope to survive.

Keeping their leaves through the winter and using snow for warmth keeps evergreens cozy and happy through the winter.

If you’re wondering how other trees survive the winter, you can read our in-depth guide on how trees survive the winter here.

Do Evergreens Ever Stop Growing?

pine trees against the blue sky, Russia

Evergreens seem to know exactly what they need to survive. If they can grow all year-round, do they ever stop growing?

Just like humans and animals, plants have a life expectancy too. Some can live for a few decades while others can live centuries and even millennia, which is the case of The General Sherman Tree, which is over 2,000 years old.

When you think of the growth rate of any animal, including humans, we see a pattern where growth happens quickly in youth and eventually halts as we get older. The same can be said for plants. 

Shrubs, herbs, and trees will eventually slow their growth in height until it is barely noticeable. However, they never actually stop growing. The plant will continue to produce new limbs and, in a tree’s case, will continue to grow wider as they add growth rings to their trunk.

Why Evergreens Stop Growing

As we mentioned before, evergreens don’t really ‘stop’ growing so much as slow down their growth rate. But what causes this slowdown?

There are a few probable reasons an evergreen will stop growing in height at a certain age:

  • Cells stop dividing
  • The plant is too tall to sustain the transport of nutrients
  • Unfavorable conditions

Let’s check those out in more detail.

Cells Stop Dividing, Limiting Evergreen Vertical Growth

On a molecular level, trees have cells and perform chemical reactions similar to any living thing. But eventually, the cells will stop dividing, halting the chemical processes needed for vertical growth.

This will only happen once the tree gets older. For example, a tree may have a lifespan of 200 years, but at age 80 it may slow its growth rate significantly if the cells aren’t dividing and creating new growth.

Evergreen Growth Will Slow When The Plant Is Too Tall To Transport Nutrients

Another reason evergreens might slow their vertical growth is they just get too tall. For the tree to grow, nutrients and water must travel from the roots to the tippy top of the tree.

On the way up, gravity is constantly battling with the pull from the leaves for water and nutrients. Eventually, gravity is going to win.

Unfavorable Conditions Can Slow Evergreen Growth

According to a study published in Tree Physiology, most plants and trees grow fastest in warm, humid conditions. The only exception is tropical plants because they live in this optimal environment all the time.

Temperature is only one factor that affects tree growth. Soil conditions, water content, and sun conditions will all affect plant growth rates as well.

Are Evergreens Always Green?

Through rain or shine, sleet or snow, evergreens seem to always be green! Is it true, or a trick of the eye?

In general, evergreens always have green leaves (including needles) on the plant/tree year-round. However, this does not mean the green color comes from the same leaves year after year.

According to the University of Georgia, evergreens shed their leaves and needles every few years. However, because the leaves last more than one year, the leaf drop is often unnoticeable to us because there’s so much new growth.

Each plant has its own rate of leaf drop, but the most common age of leaves is three years before they fall off. Sometimes the leaves will change to a brown or yellow color before dropping, showing they are ready to fall off.

Another inconsistency between evergreens is what season the leaves fall off. Some fall off in spring to prepare for fresh growth, others fall off in summer or fall to prepare for winter. 

No matter when the leaves decide to drop, there are still tons of new growth to cover the yellowing or browning leaves, giving the plant an evergreen appearance.

What Are The Signs Of Winter Damage To My Evergreen?

pine needle and cones that have dried and died in close-up, a very brown red background image from an Umea in early autumn

Winter is by far the hardest season on plants, evergreen or not. The snow cover may help provide insulation, but it can also weigh down branches and even break them off if the snow or ice is heavy enough.

The bleak cold season can creep up on evergreens, so it’s important to be on the lookout for signs of winter stress so you can keep your evergreen happy, even during the coldest days.

Browning Leaves And Needles

Brown leaves are usually more noticeable on an evergreen than a deciduous tree.

The browning of evergreen leaves and needles can be caused by a few winter-inspired effects:

  • Sun bleaching
  • Frozen ground
  • Dry conditions
  • Wind

The sun is an important element in tree health, so you would think those warm sunny days in the middle of winter would be good for evergreens.

The truth? Sunny days in winter can devastate evergreens. Sunny days in the spring and summer are great for an evergreen – there’s lots of water and nutrients available to promote new growth.

However, in winter, things slow down quite a bit. The soil gets colder, the roots struggle to find water if the ground is frozen, and minerals are harder to come by.

When chlorophyll absorbs sunlight to perform photosynthesis, it only needs as much sunlight as the tree can handle with little water and minerals. If it takes in too much, it can bleach the leaves, turning them brown.

This can happen from direct sunlight, or the light reflected off the snow. Ever heard of photokeratitis? Probably not, but you have probably heard of snow blindness – same thing.

According to the University of Utah, snow blindness happens when your eyes get sunburned. This happens most often when a bright sunny day is paired with fresh white snow on the ground.

In a sense, evergreens can experience snow blindness too. Trees do not have eyes to get burned, but their leaves can get fried from too much direct sunlight and reflected sunlight. 

With this in mind, it is important to remember evergreens are adaptive. A study published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences revealed that evergreens have a way of protecting their chlorophyll from sunlight so it does not burn them brown so easily.

If the sunlight becomes too much for the chlorophyll, the evergreen will produce a complex molecule to take in the sunlight and dissipate it as harmless heat from the leaves. Pretty cool, right?

Unfortunately, not all evergreens have this ability. So, if your evergreen turns brown, it most likely cannot protect itself from plant snow blindness and is receiving too much light.

Brown leaves are not always caused by bleaching from the sun. Dry conditions can also turn an evergreen’s leaves a dreary brown.

Dryness happens when the ground freezes and the roots cannot take in water. Wind can also dry out evergreens, causing the leaves to turn brown.

Broken Branches Or Stems

If you are lucky enough (or unlucky enough, depending on your perspective) to live in an area with all four seasons, you are probably familiar with the yearly big snowstorm.

It happens once or twice a year when you get pounded with snow, sometimes ice, accumulating up to a foot or more. As a kid, it was the best thing ever, no school! But as an adult, you might just sigh and stare out the window with an impending sense of dread.

Evergreens dread big snowstorms as well. The heavy snow can weigh down stems and branches, putting extra stress on the evergreen. If the snow is wet, or if ice is involved, it’s even tougher on them.

Broken branches, stems, or leaves can occur during particularly heavy snow accumulations. This will damage the evergreen tree, severing important light-collecting leaves from the tree.

The wound left behind will take years to close, and in the meantime, insects and critters may move in. This can damage the interior of the tree and even kill it if the flow of nutrients is halted.

Soil Heaving Can Damage Evergreen Tree Roots

We have talked about how leaves and branches are damaged by winter weather. Now let’s discuss how the roots can be affected by Jack Frost.

In many areas where winter weather occurs, the temperature fluctuates from day to day. January and February are pretty cold, but November, December, March, and April can see vast fluctuations in temperature.

Naturally, the warming and cooling of the soil causes it to expand and contract, expand and contract, over and over again. This repeated growth and contraction of the soil will damage evergreen tree roots and can sometimes rip smaller plants right out of the ground!

How To Keep Your Evergreen Tree Growing In The Winter

Moody winter landscape with tall spruce forest cowered with white snow in frozen mountains.

An evergreen with browning leaves or broken branches, and root damage is not a happy tree. We want our trees to be happy, right?! After all, they give us oxygen, shade, and are nice to look at.

To keep your evergreen happy, you will want to take a few steps to protect it from the harsh winter conditions. Keep the following in mind when fall begins losing its grasp and winter takes hold:

  • Choose the right location to plant your evergreen
  • Protect your evergreen from sun, wind, cold temperatures, and snow
  • Water your evergreen properly during the growing season
  • Prune at the proper time

Let’s dive a little deeper into those topics so you can keep your evergreen green and happy!

Choosing The Right Location For Your Evergreen

If you are planning to purchase an evergreen and are wondering where to plant it, pay close attention to the north and northeast areas of your yard. This is where your evergreen will do best.

We all know the sun rises in the east and sets in the west, so planting your evergreen on the north/northeast side of your lawn will help shield it from the sun’s rays during the winter. This will help prevent bleaching of the leaves.

If there is a way to plant your evergreen so it is protected from the wind as well, all the better.

Protect Your Evergreen Using Boughs, Burlap, And Mulch

Deck the halls with boughs of holly… wait, what exactly are boughs? Boughs refer to the main limb or branch of a plant or tree. You can use boughs to protect your evergreen.

If there are any fallen branches or stems from other evergreens or trees, you can prop these against your current evergreen to protect it from the sun, wind, and snow. The bough will act as an extra layer of protection, absorbing some of the sun and protecting against wind and snow.

You can also use burlap to protect your evergreens. Burloptuous’s Natural Burlap Fabric is a brilliant choice for your evergreen. It comes in a 15-foot roll, so you can cut it to fit your evergreen, no matter the size and shape.

If you are not keen on cutting the burlap yourself, you can go for something like ANPHSIN’s 40 x 47 Inch Burlap Winter Plant Cover Bags. Just pop it over your plant and you’re done!

Putting a ring of mulch around your evergreen will help insulate the roots and keep the soil at a more even temperature. This prevents soil heaving and can go a long way in keeping your tree happy.

Water Your Evergreen Properly

Your evergreens will not thank you for being over-watered or under-watered. How do you know how much water your evergreen needs?

According to the University of Minnesota, you can measure the main stem or trunk of your plant at 6 inches above the ground (unless its diameter is greater than 4 inches, then measure at 1 foot above the ground.)

Depending on the diameter, their site will tell you how long it takes for the roots to establish and how many gallons of water you should use at irrigation times. For example, a 1-inch tree trunk will take 1.5 years to establish roots and require about 1 ½ gallons of water at each watering.

But how often do you water the plant or tree? 

A good rule of thumb is to water daily if the plant is new. Between 3 and 12 weeks, water once or twice a week. After 3 months, water once a week until the roots are established, then you can stop watering and let nature take the reins.

Prune Your Evergreen At The Proper Time

Pruning is essential to a tree’s health. It may seem counterproductive, snipping off healthy stems and branches, but in the long run, it helps more than hurts.

Pruning encourages growth in any plant, including evergreens. However, you can’t prune all year long. 

August is the last month you want to prune your evergreens. After this, evergreens slow down and harden off for winter, so you do not want them spending extra energy trying to grow more than they have to.

Summary

Evergreens are green all year and do not lose their leaves as often as deciduous trees. Instead, leaves and needles stay on for a few years before slowly falling off. 

For deciduous plants, winter means a partial or complete halt to new growth as the plants go into a dormant state. They lose all their leaves and shut down, waiting for the warmth and rain of spring to wake them up and encourage new growth.

Evergreens do not go dormant like deciduous plants. Instead, they keep on trucking through winter. Their growth may slow, but they continue to photosynthesize and create sugars for new growth.

Whether you already have an established evergreen or are thinking of planting one, there are plenty of ways you can help it survive and thrive through winter, keeping a bit of color in your yard to contrast with the unexciting gray and white of winter.

References

Gilmore, A. M., & Ball, M. C. (2000, September 26). Protection and storage of chlorophyll in overwintering evergreens. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America, 97(20), 11098-11101.

Ninemets, U. (2016, March). Does the touch of cold make evergreen leaves tougher? Tree Physiology, 36(3), 267-272.

Ryan, M. G. (2010, June). Temperature and tree growth. Tree Physiology, 30(6), 667-668.

Starr, G., & Oberbauer, S. F. (2003, June 01). Photosynthesis of Arctic Evergreens Under Snow: Implications For Tundra Ecosystem Carbon Balance. Ecology, 84(6), 1415-1420.

An Arborist Cutting Down a Maple Tree Piece by Piece

8 Reasons To Cut Down The Tree In Front Of Your House

While it is nice to have a scenic view of trees while looking out your window, it can also be a bother and even a hazard to have those trees perched in your front yard overlooking your home. 

In general, you should cut down the tree in the front of your house when:

  1. Removing the tree leads to a healthier lawn
  2. The tree is too close to your home (within 15ft)
  3. You want to minimize storm damage
  4. The tree requires too much upkeep
  5. You want to limit the insect infestations inside the tree

Many times, front yard trees hold some sort of sentiment for homeowners but sometimes, just need to be removed from the front of your house. Read on to learn all the reasons you may have to cut down your front yard tree!

1. Removing Trees From The Front Of Your House Can Make A Healthier Lawn

Close up of chain saw cutting down big old birch tree

There are many benefits to cutting trees down (in small amounts, like the one in the front of your house).

If trees are close together, sometimes they do not have enough room for all of their roots underground. Then, their roots get tangled underneath the soil and the dominant tree usually wins the battle. The other tree ends up needing to be cut down anyway.

If you notice your trees are doing this and you cut down the weaker one right away, you are saving yourself a hassle later. It also creates a healthier environment for the other tree to grow and thrive in without fighting for resources under the dirt.

If you are looking for a chainsaw for the job, the EGO Power+ CS1604 16-Inch 56-Volt Lithium-ion Cordless Chainsaw is a fantastic option! It is water resistant and can cut through trees up to 16 inches in diameter.

2. The Tree In The Front Of Your House Is Too Close To Your Home

If a tree is close to your home, it probably is not very safe. If a limb or the entire tree were to fall during a storm, it could damage your house and cost you thousands of dollars to replace. 

If it is next to a utility line, it is also a risk. Again, in the scenario of a storm, the tree could knock out the power line and cut the power to all the houses on your street. Always be careful when cutting down any tree, especially those next to utility lines.

A tree might cut off your line of sight to the road if it is next to your driveway. If you are in your car and at the end of your driveway and the tree is all you can see, it is a safety risk. If it is blocking your line of sight to oncoming traffic, it is also blocking the traffic’s line of sight to you.

You might also notice a dangerous structural defect on a tree. This can be several things, like a limb hanging off of it suspended by another limb, a large crack in the tree’s foundation, or even an unstable base.

If you notice anything that looks like it might be a problem with the integrity of your tree, you might want to cut it down.

3. The Tree In Your Front Yard Isn’t Growing Properly

Penn State gives a great tip here and says that trees need the right environment to grow, just like all other living things, including plants, animals, and even us as humans. If they are not in the right environment, they will not thrive no matter what you do to help them.

Trees need proper soil to drain, so places with sandy or thick clay soil might not be the best place to plant most trees. Unless, of course, the tree is meant for those conditions. 

Trees need space. As I stated above, trees will entangle their roots and fight over the shared space to get the nutrients and sustenance they need to survive. This can also be an issue if a tree just does not have enough room to grow, like a houseplant that needs a bigger pot.  

Also, the climate has to be right. You cannot go get a palm tree and plant in the arctic and expect it to grow in the front of your house. You need to research the tree to understand what it needs to thrive and make sure you have those things. If you do not, it might be time to cut it down.

Ultimately, this all leads to the tree in your front yard needing to possibly be cut down. If it’s an older tree, you’ll notice thinning leaves or needles starting to appear on a few branches, with more appearing over time.

If you do want to instead, save the tree in your front yard, take a look at our article which discusses the most common front yard tree: How to Fertilize Your Oak Tree (7 Simple Tips)

4. Your Front Yard Tree Requires Too Much Upkeep

While a tree is young, it needs a lot of upkeep. Depending on the tree, it will require varying levels of care. Some trees need constant pruning while they are growing, while others need to be kept safe from animals, like rabbits.

A younger tree might not survive in colder temps like it would when it is older, so you might have to cover it and keep it warm if it is cold. On the flip side, make sure it is getting enough water if it’s too hot.

Young trees, especially saplings, need a lot more attention than people give them credit for. Not only do the saplings require a lot of work, but the surrounding area also needs tending to. Be careful when weed whipping or mowing grass.

Now, you’re probably thinking “do I need to cut down a young tree?”

Well, the answer really is no. If the tree was just planted within the six months you can transplant it as the roots haven’t spread too much. After that, you should contact a friend or professional with gardening experience to transplant the tree as the roots will have grown quite a bit and spread.

After a few years, you’ll want a professional to transplant a tree.

5. Your Front Yard Tree Keeps Getting Insect Infestations

Bugs love trees, they often make them their homes. While this does not seem bad, these bugs also include things like termites, hornets, you name it. Not only are these bugs annoying, but they also have the potential to cause harm to your home and front of house, too!

With bugs come animals or other bugs looking to make the previous bugs a meal. If you have a bug problem, you might find yourself with a bird problem, and then a small rodent problem—the list goes on and on.

If you notice any signs of a bug infestation in your front yard OR back yard trees, you want to get them cut down. Although, if you cut them down before there is an infestation, you have nothing to worry about. (This reason is also closely related to trees very near your home).

To learn more about the creatures potentially living in the trees in the front of your house, check out our article: 9 Different Animals And Insects That Live In Trees.

6. You Want To Minimize Storm Damage Your Tree Can Cause

Fallen tree on the roof after big storm

I know I already touched on trees being too close to your home and how if a storm were to come through, it could damage your home. However, a tree in a storm can damage a lot more than just your home. 

There are those tacky commercials where an entire tree falls straight onto a brand new car, crushing it in a second. While those commercials can be kind of silly, they are not wrong.

A fallen tree in the front of your house can ruin your:

  • Roof
  • Car
  • Driveway
  • Siding
  • Entire home
  • Electricity (power lines)
  • Lawn

So, it may be best to cut the tree if it’s too close to your home. Each tree should have a branch no closer that AT LEAST 15ft from your home. I would recommend keeping it further out, but that should be your bare minimum.

If you don’t want to cut down the entire tree in the front of your house, then trim some of the at risk branches back as much as possible.

7. The Cost Of Keeping The Tree In Your Front Yard Outweighs The Benefit

This reason makes me think of fruit trees. Many people will do whatever it takes to save a fruit tree in their front yard because of their ability to bear food and the aesthetic they give.

So if you have bugs or animals nibbling on said tree, it might be more cost-effective to cut it down and start again. Repairing the damage done to the tree so far can be very costly per season depending on what equipment and pesticides you use.

With this tip, you can also take what you learned if a tree didn’t grow correctly or you had pests to deal with and use it to ensure your next tree turns out much better.

If you’re wondering if you should plant a tree in near your home at all, take a look at our helpful guide for the most common yard tree called: Should You Plant An Oak Tree in Your Backyard? Pros & Cons

8. Cutting Trees In The Front Of Your House Provides Useful Wood

I think this reason is probably one of the most self-explanatory of all the reasons. By cutting down a tree, you have wood you can now use. There are a ton of different things you can do with the wood from the tree you cut.

For starters, you can use it for a fire or a wood stove. You could use it if you do woodworking, or you could even sell it!

Many people will pay to have some firewood already pre-cut for them or even just a fallen tree for them to cut up themselves to take home. Some people even use fallen trees to make mulch for gardens.

If you have a fallen oak tree, check out 9 Best Fallen Oak Tree Uses (And What To Do With Them) for more ideas on how to use it!

What To Do When You Cut Down The Tree In Front Of Your House

Pine tree in forest marked with red X to be cut down.

When you finally decide it is time to cut down the tree, there are a lot of steps you need to take before you go out there in your plaid shirt and suspenders wielding an ax like a lumberjack.

The USDA has a great quote, “If you cannot prune your tree with both feet on the ground, call an arborist”. This applies to when you are cutting down the tree as well. 

If you’ll be cutting down a tree in the front of your house, it’s most likely an adult tree. Even so, you should contact a local arborist to cut down your tree unless you have extensive knowledge doing so!

When You Should NOT Cut Down A Tree In Front Of Your House

I know this article is about cutting down the tree in your front yard. This insert of the article might seem a little silly, but it is really important to know when you can and cannot cut down a tree in your front yard.

You might think, “but… it’s my yard?” and you would be correct. However, depending on where you live or what kind of tree it is, you might need permission to cut it down or to remove it from your property from your local city hall or town depending on where the tree is.

Local Ordinance Does Not Allow You To Cut Down The Tree

If you had to ensure the definition of a local ordinance, it is essentially a law in an area of land that’s smaller than a state. So, if there is a local ordinance in place where you live to not cut down trees, you just simply cannot cut them down.

There are a few different reasons you might not be able to cut down trees because of these ordinances. Sometimes, if the tree is on a historic property, they will protect the tree to preserve the property for as long as they can.

Or, you might have an endangered or protected specimen of tree on your property. You cannot cut these either, but if you are unsure if a tree is protected, call your local government to ask. Many times you can also look it up with a simple search on your town or county website.

So, make sure to contact your local town officials office and see if there are any quick ordinances for the type of tree you’ll be cutting down as well as any rules they may have for cutting the tree down in your front yard!

The Tree Is Along A Stream Of Water

You cannot cut down a tree if it is anywhere close to a stream of running water. There are a couple of reasons, but the biggest is it can cause some serious soil erosion and do much more harm than good.

Also, it can harm the habitat for animals in the stream or make the stream unpassable to people using it for recreation. Although you may own the property the tree is on, you do not own the water. Cutting trees down is dangerous, and near bodies of water makes it even more dangerous. 

This one might sound odd because this article is about trees in the front of your house, but this might apply to some who live near a river or lake. 

Your Front Of House Tree Is Protected By An Easement

If your property has space with an easement, you need to know where that easement is. An easement is essentially land that is not yours that you can use, and you have to ensure that you upkeep it.

If you are looking to get rid of a tree in your yard, ensure it is not under an easement before doing so. If it is under an easement, it will typically be held under your neighbors name. Reach out to them and discuss whether or not you both think cutting the down the tree in the front of your house in a good idea!

Your Homeowner’s Association Does Not Allow For Non-Needed Tree Removal

The good old HOA can put a foot down and say you cannot chop the tree sitting in your front yard.

If you are a part of an HOA, I would recommend looking at your community rules and then ensuring with another member of the HOA to make sure it is not an issue before you cut.

If the existing documentation they have isn’t clear, reach out to a local HOA official and ask!

Things To Look Out For When Cutting Down The Tree In Front Of Your House

When deciding if a tree needs to be cut down, there are a few different things to look for. 

First things first, if you are planning on digging up the stump, you need to make sure there are no underground power lines near you. You can do this by calling your electric company to come out and mark the lines for you.

When looking at a tree’s overall safety, inspect their limbs to see if they are broken off or looking limp. You can check for cracks or cavities in the tree, which can house fungi or animals.

You should also check on the trunk to see if the roots are popping out of the ground dramatically or if the trunk looks weak. This would indicate that the tree should be cut sooner than later.

Finally, you can check to see if there is any new lean in the tree as would indicate that you should cut down that tree in the front of your house!

When looking at the tree’s overall health, note the size of the tree, the color of its leaves and bark, and if the leaves grow all over the tree or in patches. If any of these look lacking or out of the norm, this could mean your tree is on its way out.

Also, compare the trunk and base of the tree to what a healthy tree looks like. You can do this simply by searching online for a healthy version of the tree you are dealing with and comparing them from there.

In Closing

Many people do not know what they are getting into when they plant a tree in their yard and, honestly, few do the research needed. If you have little information about a tree, try to avoid planting it until you know enough to avoid cutting it down in the future.

If you face the decision to cut down a tree, use these tips to see if it will benefit you and call your local arborist to help. Happy front of house tree cutting!

References

McKeever, D.  Skog, K.  (2003).  Urban tree and woody yard residues: another wood resource.  United States Department of Agriculture.  2-4.

McPherson, E. Gregory; Simpson, James R.; Peper, Paula J.; Gardner, Shelley L.; Vargas, Kelaine E.; Xiao, Qingfu. (2007.) Northeast community tree guide: benefits, costs, and strategic planting. Gen. Tech. Rep Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Pacific Southwest Research Station; 106.

Sommer, B & R. (1989). The factor structure of street tree attributes. Journal of Aboriculture. 15 (10). 243-246.

Tenley M. Conway. (2016). Tending their urban forest: Residents’ motivations for tree planting and removal. Urban Forestry & Urban Greening.Volume 17,,Pages 23-32, ISSN 1618-8667.

Qunshan Zhao, David J. Sailor, Elizabeth A. Wentz (2018). Impact of tree locations and arrangements on outdoor microclimates and human thermal comfort in an urban residential environment. Urban Forestry & Urban Greening. Volume 32,Pages 81-91,ISSN 1618-8667.

Large single maple tree on sunny summer day in green field with blue sky

8 Best Ways To Transport Maple Trees (And How To Do It)

At some point in life, you may have to transport a tree, either to transplant it or to move it from the nursery to your home. Sounds like quite the undertaking, no? The good news is there are several things you can do to easily transport your maple tree. 

In general, the best way to transport a maple tree is to make sure to protect the root ball and bark by lifting from the pot into your vehicle. Wrap the maple tree foliage lightly to protect it from the wind while driving and when you are stopped, make sure to provide air circulation.

Most of the procedures and considerations are the same for transporting any tree, though there are differences when it comes to the height and some types of trees. Read on to find out more about how to transport your maple tree!

Equipment Needed For Transporting Maple Trees

If you have a maple tree that is coming from the nursery then you’ll need to see how they deal with the storage of the tree. Are they root balled or burlapped? If so, for both they’ll be quite heavy. 

The one thing to remember is to never pull, drag or lift a maple tree from the bark. This may not only hurt you–but hurt the tree in a way that will start it dying early. The way to understand this is to look at the bark like the skin. 

According to a study by the American Society for Horticultural Science, tree health can suffer due to rough contact with the bark and or foliage. If you rupture the skin, you’ll let in bugs and disease. The best way to give your maple tree regardless of age or size a great chance at a healthy life is to protect that bark! 

So, use a hand truck or dolly and get help to lift it into the truck without engaging the bark by pulling or lifting. 

You can find a tree cart like this Mac Sports Collapsible Outdoor Utility Wagon to make transportation easier!

Additionally, since you’re most likely trying to transport a younger maple tree – take a look at Fiskars 46 Inch Steel D-handle Transplanting Spade if you’re going to be digging up the maple tree yourself. It’s ideal for penetrating the ground around tree routes in order to make translating go quite easily.

Make sure to wear proper gardening clothing, such as long sleeved gloves, shirts and pants along with protective glasses.

1. How To Transport A Container Grown Maple Tree

Young maple seedlings in pots waiting to be planted outdoors

Using the same considerations for the bark as you would for any tree, lift, preferably with two people if it’s a heavy tree, into a wheelbarrow and place it into a flatbed truck or an enclosed moving-style truck.

Do not put the maple tree lopsided inside a small car or a place that will crush the foliage, tender small branches, or hurt the bark of your maple tree. We will hit that point home! 

Maple trees in the pot also need to be watered and provided protection to the root ball while the tree awaits replanting.

2. How To Transport A Maple Tree On A Roof Rack

Most people who are transporting only one maple tree will end up putting the poor thing on the roof rack of the car. This typically happens because folks are unaware of the care of the tree in transport. 

Once you understand the care of the bark and the foliage you can make the roof rack thing work. All you need to do is wrap the maple tree from root to top. 

The age and size of the tree should dictate what you would use to wrap it. Especially when it comes to the branches and bark. You also don’t want to knock the dirt off the root ball if you’ve dug it up. 

Let’s address that first. If you’ve dug up the maple tree and plan on transporting it on your roof rack then take a burlap or just some old blankets and carefully wrap and knot them around the root ball being careful not to damage the roots. 

If it’s pot-bound then make sure you pack some plastic down in the soil to keep it from spilling out and then wrap it with the blankets. The dirt in the pot or any dirt around an exposed root ball is important and it is recommended not to remove it. It serves as nutrients and protection. 

Now, let’s address the branches and trunk. A tarp may be the best bet for covering the tree foliage and tender branches. If you will be driving in wind or at speed on the freeway or anything over 35 MPH we suggest using a tarp with twine or rope. 

We do not recommend wrapping bungee cord around the maple tree body. Bungee is too tight and will tear and break the branches. It may also rip off the foliage. The tree will be in shock, to begin with, and we don’t want to push it into a nervous breakdown! 

So, we suggest that you only use a bungee cord to put through the loops in the tarp to attach it to the inside of the roof of the vehicle. Use twine or rope to firmly, but not too tightly wrap the tarp around the tree. 

High quality bungee cords can be found online like these Rhino USA Bungee Cords Outdoor with Hooks.

You’ll have to experiment with it. If it’s too much, you may want to find another way to transport your maple. The roof rack is the most common other than a flatbed which is better, but not the most ideal.

If your maple tree comes in a netting already, then leave it on. If you pick one up from a nursery, it may be pre-netted. Don’t remove it. Make sure you’ve measured the car and the tree to ensure it is not falling off or smacking on the car. 

3. How To Transport Your Maple Tree In A Flatbed Truck

Flatbed truck ready for tree transport

Transporting your maple in a flatbed truck is simple and the same precautions should be taken to protect the tree as you would transporting it on the roof rack. 

Be sure to measure the flatbed against the maple tree you want. You want a foot all the way around the tree. You do not want to bump the tree around but you also don’t want to squash it. 

The best practice for transporting your maple tree in an open flatbed truck, meaning no cab is enclosing the bed, is to use old blankets and pillows. 

Line the bottom of the flatbed first. Then, place it in the middle and surround it gently with pillows and blankets. Place one blanket over the top loosely and place a tarp over the blanket. 

If there is more than one maple tree, they will be young trees with fragile foliage and branches. You would not be able to fit more than one more mature maple in the flatbed. 

Then, using the eyelet holes that should be on the insides of the truck, attach bungee cord crossways over the tree and the top blankets. Make sure they are not crushing the tree branches.

Finally, make sure you are not allowing the root ball or pot (if it is pot bound) hang out of the back of the flatbed more than a foot and not without being wrapped. The trees should be short enough to fit entirely into the back. Make sure that tree is snug as a bug in a rug! As they say. 

4. How To Protect Your Maple Tree From Weather During Transport

The one threat that your maple tree has in transport apart from getting injured is the weather. Heat and extreme cold can be enemies of trees. However, the cold, most can withstand for some time. 

Heat, on the other hand, can be deadly, even for a short time. Make sure that you climate control your vehicle if it’s enclosed and it’s cooler than the outside by at least a degree or two. 

You don’t need a refrigeration truck, but it must not be hot. The foliage will wilt and it can damage the root ball. 

If you are moving the maple tree via a flatbed truck, you can’t climate control it. However, you need to get to the destination in a timely manner. We would suggest traveling after sundown if you are going a distance. Any exposure to direct sun for any part of the maple tree in transport is not good at all. 

5. Cost Of Getting A Professional To Transport Your Maple Tree

Tree with root ball intended for transplanting

If all else fails, you may need to get someone to transport the tree for you. The nursery may have someone or you may have to go to a larger DIY chain with a nursery. Hiring someone on an app where people offer their services may be an outlet. 

In general, transporting a maple tree should cost around $200 to $400 to get it out of the ground if it’s a maple tree that needs to be uprooted. With transportation, the whole project could run over $600 plus.

You have to figure out what’s worth it for you. You may not want to pay to transport one maple tree or pay more than the tree was acquired for.

6. How To Transport Your Maple In A Car Or Utility Trailer

This is not recommended for trees larger than a sapling level. The maple tree must be inside the car all the way and can’t be forced for fear of crushing it or drying it out. Getting a maple into your Mini is simply not going to work!

If you absolutely can’t avoid it, here’s how to transport your maple tree in your car. 

Follow the same instructions consistent throughout this article. If you can’t – and you most likely won’t – fit the whole maple tree inside the car all the way and at the same time not squash it, then tarp or net the foliage and wrap the root ball.

A utility trailer that is hooked to your car is the better choice as you will have markedly more room to maneuver. Just understand as we stated before that for long distances or more than under an hour, in the heat, is not good. 

Get the maple tree to the planting site ASAP and plant the same day. This is the recommendation you should follow for all methods of transporting a maple tree. 

7. How To Properly Load And Unload Maple Trees During Transport

For large maple trees, the use of a root sling and hook can be used. You will have to learn how to use this or hire a company with one. The first way is to place a specialized band around the root ball and attach it to a hook and further attach it to another band around the trunk.

You would have to wrap jute or burlap around the trunk to protect it and the lifting is through the root ball. 

The second method is for multi-stemmed maple trees and maple trees with root balls at 80 plus centimeters. The hook and strap go from the root ball to the back limbs. This is to protect the small limbs from snapping during the lifting process which is common. 

8. How To Transport Your Maple Across The Landscape

Using or investing in a tree cart is the smartest way. Especially if you are moving it alone and can’t lift it. You will still have to have it lifted off the truck. Once that happens, you’ll place the tree root ball first and place the tree trunk carefully over your shoulder.

Of course not with a mature and very heavy tree. Also, watch your eyes and face from the small limbs that could cause injury. If it’s a small tree in the way of the limbs, but the root ball is kinda big, you’ll want to use a tree cart. The way it works is by using leverage so that you aren’t using your strength to push it.

If the utility cart mentioned earlier in the article doesn’t suit your needs, take a look at this heavier duty option, MacSports Heavy Duty Collapsible Wagon Cart.

How To Transplant Your Maple Tree

The one thing you must remember about completing the transition for your tree is to get it in the ground the same day you transport it. You want to make sure that it’s well-irrigated if you need to keep it on the planting site for a day. 

Do not leave it for more than a day. Only if you have no other choice. The root ball can’t dry out and the dirt around the root ball must not detach from the root ball.

Understand that you must follow the planting, climate, and watering instructions for your species of maple. 

Here are 12 steps to transplanting a maple tree:

  1. Be sure to clear the ground on the planting spot of any vegetation.
  2. Dig the planting hole 18 inches into the ground.
  3. Mix in organic compost.
  4. Continue to dig the hole as deep and wide as the root ball.
  5. Pour several gallons of water into the soil and give it a few minutes to seep into the earth.
  6. Go and mark the north side of the maple tree by tying a ribbon or something to demarcate it without marring or injuring the bark.
  7. Move the maple tree to the hole ensuring the root ball is shielded from the direct sunlight.
  8. Lower the maple tree into the hole. The marked side facing north. 
  9. Fill the hole with the soil that you extracted from the hole.
  10. Meet the soil at the soil line on the trunk that was left on it from the prior location.
  11. Water thoroughly and deeply after planting. When water is left on top of the soil and no longer seeping in.
  12. The watering schedule should be as follows: Water deeply like this twice in the same week. Water normally when the Earth is dry 3-4 inches deep. If there is little to no rain then water twice a month deeply near the roots. 

Check out this article on the 5 Best Maple Tree Fertilizers (And How To Use Them) to learn more about taking care of your maple tree!

Below, we’re going to go over several variations for what you’ll need to do, depending on your equipment and situation, for transplanting a maple tree. Let’s get to it!

That’s A Wrap! 

We hope that you’ve gotten enough out of this to make an educated choice as to how you’d like to handle your maple transportation. It’s very simple when you break it down!

Here are 5 simple steps for transplanting a maple tree:

  1. Make sure you measure the maple tree against your vehicle or method of transportation.
  2. Keep the maple tree inside the vehicle. If you can’t be sure to cover the foliage and root ball.
  3. Keep it out of direct sunlight. 
  4. Do not drag, pull or lift from the bark so as not to injure or strip it.
  5. Do not break the root ball or allow the dirt to detach from a root ball. 

References:

Gen, M., Li, Y., & Ida, K. (1999). Solving multi-objective transportation problem by spanning tree-based genetic algorithm. IEICE TRANSACTIONS on Fundamentals of Electronics, Communications and Computer Sciences, 82(12), 2802-2810.

Xiao, Z., Wang, Y., Fu, K., & Wu, F. (2017). Identifying different transportation modes from trajectory data using tree-based ensemble classifiers. ISPRS International Journal of Geo-Information, 6(2), 57.

balls of white fluff cotton like seeds on a kapok tree against a bright blue sky

How Cotton Grows On Trees (And How Long It Takes)

For all of those cotton shirts you have in your closet, you may have wondered just where the heck that material came from. Does the cotton from clothing come from cottonwood trees, though? And, if not, where does it come from, and how does cotton grow?

The cotton in our clothing comes from the cotton plant, which is pruned as a shrub and prevented from growing into a tree. When the plant is mature, the cotton bolls crack open to reveal the cotton fiber. Cotton plants take roughly 5-6 months to mature and can grow into small trees up to 6ft tall.

Keep reading to find out what the cotton plant is, how cotton grows, as well as how cottonwood trees create their cotton-like seeds!

What Is The Cotton Plant?

The cotton plant is part of the Gossypium genus of flowering plants, which belongs to the Mallow or Hibiscus family. This plant family contains around 4,225 trees, shrubs, and herbs. Cotton is considered the fruit of the cotton plant.

Commercially, four types of cotton are grown around the world, which includes the following:

  • Gossypium hirsutum, which comprises 95% of all cotton grown in the United States.
  • Gossypium barbadense, which is used in some of the most deluxe fabrics.
  • Gossypium arboreum, which is often found in the fabric muslin.
  • Gossypium herbaceum, which is usually spun into yarns to produce various fabrics.

Originally, cotton was a perennial plant until humans began harvesting it as an annual. Perennials, like the cotton plant, generally live beyond two years. In addition, the cotton plant is typically maintained as a shrub; however, if it is not maintained, the plant can grow in size and become a tree.

Cotton plants need extensive heat and an environment that is free from frost to grow. During spring, farmers plant cotton seeds to optimize their growth potential. If the plants are not harvested by November, the colder weather and frost can denigrate their quality.

The Difference Between Cotton Shrubs And Trees (Growth Rate)

Cotton shrubs ready for harvest

As previously mentioned, the cotton plant is typically maintained as a shrub, but it can become a tree if it is not maintained. What is the difference between a shrub and a tree, though? It is interesting to note that the word “shrub” is not a scientific designation; in fact, it is a blanket term for any plant that has at least two stems and is often less than 20 feet tall.

The difference between shrubs and trees is straightforward. A tree is defined by its larger size and singular woody trunk. Shrubs are smaller, of course, but they still need to be taller than one-and-a-half feet to avoid being defined as a simple or creeping plant.

For reference, most species of cotton plants only grow up to 6ft tall, while cottonwood trees can grow up to 100ft at full maturity. Cotton plants take up to 6 months to grow, while cottonwood trees grow 4-5ft annually and can take up to 50 years to reach adulthood.

The primary difference between species of cotton plants and cottonwood trees is their harvestability, which we’ll discuss below. But cotton plants are smaller, and produce cotton faster than cottonwood trees, which is why they’re used commercially.

How Cotton Shrubs Become Cotton Trees

Although a shrub like the cotton plant can grow into a tree, it can be impeded from doing so. For instance, if the cotton plant is consistently cut back and reduced in size, it will reveal a lot of stems. Over time, those stems will keep growing in their shrub-like form even as some of the stems naturally die and the healthier ones continue growing.

For a cotton shrub to grow beyond that shrubby status, it usually needs plenty of sunlight and space to expand. In a woodland environment, for example, a hawthorn is often in its shrub form as part of the forest undergrowth. If that same hawthorn was transferred to an open field, it could grow with up to two stems and become a tree.

A cotton shrub that has been intentionally pruned by people and then allowed to grow into its tree form will still produce multiple shoots from the stool, which is the base of the plant. Remember, cotton plants will only grow up to 6ft tall when unmaintained. So they truly border on being classified as a shrub or tree.

If trees that reach significant heights such as beech, sycamore, and oak have been cut back and then ignored, they will often grow and reassert their tree status; additionally, they will likely have at least two primary stems. This pattern has been observed through the practice of coppicing in a woodland, which is a type of forest management. 

Moreover, other trees that reach significant heights such as sweet chestnut, ash, and oak have a positive response to coppicing. Through managing the plants in this way, they remain as shrubs and their many stems can be harvested on a 15 to 30-year cycle. These stems are used to create products like firewood, wooden furniture, and charcoal.

How Does Cotton Grow?

Cotton seeds and fabric that are 7,000 years old have been discovered in caves throughout Mexico. This demonstrates that cotton has been grown by people for a considerable length of time. Cotton continues to be harvested in India, Africa as well as North and South America. 

As a fabric staple, cotton-based clothing is often worn during warmer seasons because of its breathability and featherweight qualities. Transforming the cotton from the field into someone’s summer shirt is an extensive process. To understand that process, it is vital to understand how the cotton plant grows.

The Development Of A Cotton Seed (Boll)

Cotton rises from the boll, which is the seed of the cotton plant. It takes a month for a boll to develop, and it is all that is needed for cotton production. Considering this short timeframe for boll development, farmers and manufacturers do not see the need for the cotton plant to grow into a tree and maintain it as a shrub.

Plus, farmers and manufacturers know that if the cotton plant is maintained like a perennial plant (which it naturally is), it might not have the necessary resources to rapidly grow the cotton itself. This is because the plant would likely focus on growing its branches and leaves rather than producing the bolls of cotton. It takes energy to grow the bolls, which is why the cotton plant is cut back as a shrub.

This pruning can assist in preventing diseases that might arise from harvesting the bolls after two years. It can also safeguard the cotton plant from pests that might be attracted to its tree form. Although cotton plants are harvested annually, they are considered commercial crops and rotated every year.

Growing And Harvesting Cotton

Industrial cotton harvesting

After planting, cotton plants require five to six months to grow to produce the cotton fiber within the bolls. Typically, the bolls will crack open, revealing the cotton fiber. This indicates that the cotton plant is fully mature and ready for harvesting.

Once the cotton is deseeded and cleaned, any remaining fiber (which protects and assists in propagating the seeds within it) is spun out with a spinner. This is the cotton ginning process. Even though cotton gins have changed in speed and size, their essential function has not changed since they were first invented.

Cotton is fairly simple to grow, but home growing is regulated and even illegal in some states. For example, hobby cotton seed is required to originate from a state-certified source in California. Additionally, it can only be legally grown in that state between March and October.

The reason there are strict regulations regarding home growing cotton is because of a governmental effort to eliminate the cotton boll weevil. This beetle has been a debilitating pest in the agriculture world for decades. The insect feeds on cotton and maims the cotton plant. 

Some states expect citizens to acquire a permit to certify that they are only growing a minimal amount of cotton that will not be commercially sold. Other states have citizens sign up for an educational course that discusses how to manage the cotton boll weevil. In any case, potential home growers need to check with their nearby extension offices to ensure that they are fully informed.

Do Cottonwood Trees Produce Cotton?

Two cottonwood trees

Cottonwood trees produce a fluffy fiber each year after they reach maturity. It is a common sight in the spring and summer to see the trees disperse their seeds, which look like a warm-weather snowfall of sorts. Although they produce these seeds each year, the trees also alternate each year by dropping the seeds. They alternate in this way to save up their resources.

Cottonwood seeds are covered with cotton-like fibers that can look similar to the cotton from the cotton plant. Cottonwood seeds are a different substance than the cotton used for clothing, though.

In some cities and neighborhoods in the United States, cottonwood trees are banned. This is part of an attempt to reduce the messiness of their cottony seeds. Although some people and places do not embrace cottonwoods, the tree remains immensely valuable on a historical and ecological level.

Check out this article on the 14 Dirtiest and Messiest Trees to Not Plant In Your Yard for other trees that may be a potential bother to your neighbors!

Facts About Cottonwood Trees

Cottonwoods are shade trees that belong to the Poplar family. American Indians used the trunks of cottonwood trees to create dugout canoes. The bark from the tree was used as medicinal tea as well as food for horses.

There are three types of cottonwood trees in North America, which include the following:

  • Populus deltoides (eastern cottonwood), which is found in southern Canada and the eastern United States.
  • Populus balsamifera (black cottonwood), which is found to the west of the Rocky Mountains.
  • Populus fremontii (fremont cottonwood), which is found in California, Utah, Arizona and northwestern Mexico.

Populus deltoides, or eastern cottonwood, grow in various types of soil. It grows best in moist ground or near the bottoms of rivers, and the tree does not do well in the shade. All three types of cottonwood trees can grow by six feet in height every year, which earns them the title of the quickest growing trees in North America.

An immature eastern cottonwood tree displays greenish-yellow bark that will darken as it ages. If saplings are connected to a constant water supply, they will grow between 30 and 50 feet in five to 10 years. This is when they have attained maturity, and female trees will start releasing their cotton-like seeds into the community.

The Difference Between Male And Female Cottonwood Trees

Male cottonwood trees create catkin flowers – just like female cottonwood trees – as well as pollen. This pollen is usually purple and can stain surfaces like concrete if the pollen is left unattended and becomes wet. In fact, due to the pollen from male cottonwoods, the trees are banned in places like Albuquerque, New Mexico.

Not only are male cottonwood trees banned in some places, but all-male varieties of poplar are banned, too. This is because the pollen from these trees can severely interfere with allergies. There are several native species of poplar, however, that are not banned in these areas.

Female cottonwood trees also create catkin flowers with one difference: these flowers produce cotton-like seeds. The cotton-like substance allows the seeds to travel far from the tree. This cottony substance also prevents the seeds from falling to the tree’s base. 

Flowering for both male and female cottonwood trees happens in the spring. The male buds grow earlier than female buds; comparatively, they are larger as well. Female catkins are pollinated by male catkins through the wind.

Cottonwood Seeds Can Travel For Miles

Through the wind’s assistance, cottonwood seeds can travel for miles and cover all things in their path. The cottonwood tree is named after its signature cotton-like seeds. The numerous seeds can irritate allergies and sometimes be hazardous due to being easily flammable.

Cottonwood seeds grow in capsules that are found on the trees’ catkins, which are a group of flowers that hang from cottonwoods. When cottonwoods are between five and 10 years old, they start creating seeds, and their fertility increases until they reach maturity. The dispersal of seeds usually happens between one to two months after flowering.

Cottonwood seeds are dispersed between early April and July, which is when female trees create the seed capsules. When fully mature, the capsules burst open, and the tree releases the cotton-like seeds. This dispersal season can vary depending on the location of the cottonwood tree.

One cottonwood tree can disperse over 25 million seeds. The cotton-like seeds must land on the appropriate surface to germinate. Seeds are only usable for up to two weeks, and they are more likely to germinate if they land on moist soil that is exposed to ample sunlight.

Some seeds can sprout within one day of their landing, and they can expand up to a quarter of an inch in this timeframe. To reach the sapling stage, seedlings require their landing location’s soil to be consistently moist and accessible to sunlight. The reality for many of these seedlings, however, is that they are eaten by herbivorous animals, pushed out by other plants, or swept away by rainfall.

That’s A Wrap!

Even though cottonwood trees create cotton-like seeds, it is a different substance than the cotton found in clothing. The cotton plant that creates this cotton is often maintained as a shrub to capitalize on its cotton production. The cotton bolls break open when the plant is mature, which reveals the cotton fiber inside.

While the cottony seeds from cottonwood trees may be a nuisance for some places and people, the tree has a long history of use by American Indians. This includes utilizing the trunk as a dugout canoe and applying the bark as a medicinal tea. It is a meaningful reminder that all plants, whether it be the cotton plant or the cottonwood tree, can offer benefits to those who seek them.

References

Geisseler, D., & Horwath, W. R. (2013). Cotton production in California. USDA, CA.

Johnson, R. L. (1965). Regenerating cottonwood from natural seedfall. Journal of Forestry, 63(1), 33-36.

Mahoney, J. M., & Rood, S. B. (1998). Streamflow requirements for cottonwood seedling recruitment—an integrative model. Wetlands, 18(4), 634-645.

Oosterhuis, D. M. (1990). Growth and development of a cotton plant. Nitrogen nutrition of cotton: Practical issues, 1-24.

Use soil PH meter for check the PH value tree

What pH Level Do Trees Actually Like For Best Growth? 

Providing a tree with the ideal soil is the most important thing to do before planting one and when bringing one back to life. By getting the soil to the right pH level, your trees will experience the full benefits of fertilizers and the nutrients available in the soil.

Most trees grow best with a neutral soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Some trees like pine and magnolia prefer more acidic soils, while others like bay laurels and blackthorns grow best in more alkaline soils. Check your tree’s ideal pH level before testing and amending the soil to fit its needs.

Read on to learn why pH matters when getting your trees to grow to their full potential, which trees prefer which levels, and how to get your soil back to the right level of acidity. Then you can fully prepare to encourage the growth of your trees and other plants on your property!

Why Do pH Levels Matter? 

A soil’s pH level matters because it is one of the major factors that determine how many minerals and nutrients get absorbed by the plant. Messed up pH levels can cause serious damage to the tree and even kill it if left in this state for too long. 

Besides controlling how available nutrients are to your tree, pH levels also affect the bacteria in the soil. Soil bacteria in particular releases nitrogen when it eats fertilizer or other organic material, so a pH level outside the range of 5.5 and 7.0 will not get the bacteria moving enough to make the vital nitrogen. 

Finally, if the pH level is below 5.0, the soil’s nutrients phase out much quicker, which causes a plant’s health to go south faster as well.

To put it in simpler terms, it is very important to maintain the pH of your yard to keep your trees growing in the best conditions possible.

Which Trees Like Which pH Levels? 

There is no specific pH level range that applies to all trees because each species of tree has its own needs for healthy growth. We’ll look at the most common trees in the United States next and the different pH level ranges they thrive in. 

Remember to always research your tree’s ideal pH levels before deciding if and how to upgrade the soil. 

Trees That Prefer Acidic Soil 

Holly tree
Holly tree.

If you live somewhere in the Pacific Northwestern, Southeastern, or Eastern part of the country, the soil is generally more acidic. The rainier the environment, the more acidic the soil.  

If you live in one of these places, choosing a tree that likes acidic soil makes it easier to maintain the soil health, but you can adjust the pH level on your own if you live elsewhere. I’ll explain how to do so later on. 

Luckily, a lot of these types of trees can tolerate higher pH levels (up to around 7.3), but the best growth comes in lower ranges, like 4.5-6.0.  

Red oak, maple, dogwood, beech, magnolia, pine, and holly trees are just a few of the species in the U.S. that do well in acidic soils.  

Trees That Prefer Alkaline Soil 

As opposed to acidic soil, you will find more alkaline soil in places with really dense forests or are super dry, like the Western part of the United States. It is commonly called “sweet soil” by gardeners because it is the opposite of acidic soil nicknamed “sour soil”. 

Alkaline soil is often pretty low-quality in terms of structure and high levels of it will stunt plant growth. Clay is one type of alkaline soil that is known for getting waterlogged and cutting off oxygen to the plant.

Some of the types of trees that do well in alkaline soil are Freeman maples, green ash, bay laurels, Rocky Mountain junipers, boxwoods, and willows. Bay laurels and ash in particular can thrive in a pH up to 9.0, while the others can grow well in pH levels up to 8.0. 

Most Trees Prefer Neutral Soil

Pink Crabapple flowers on arching brances in Summer in Michigan.
Pink Crabapple.

Most trees like neutral soil, not too high or low on the pH scale and around 6.0 to 7.0. Even better, many trees also tolerate a fairly wide range of pH levels. 

Cherry, basswood, crabapple, and Douglas fir are some of the tree species that like this neutral soil type.  

By checking out pH requirements, you will find most trees can handle slightly acidic soil, but less so with alkaline soils. Now let’s find out how to test the soil’s pH so you can be sure your tree is in its best possible underground environment. 

How To Test Your Soil 

generic pH test kit.
Generic pH test kit.

Whether or not you have planted the tree already, testing the soil’s pH level will help you figure out the best way to encourage growth and allow you to improve the soil. Make sure you know the ideal pH level for your tree before testing, so you know what to do when you find out the results.

Planting a new tree without testing the soil is like sailing out to sea without knowing which harbor you came from. You need to find out the pH level so you can know if and when to use fertilizer. This allows you to boost the growth of the tree through the soil as much as you can without overdoing it.

A lot of gardeners use rapid tests to figure out the pH level of their soil. The Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH is a top-rated test that provides quick results. It tells you about the nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash levels of the soil too. All you have to do is take a soil sample, mix it with water, add in a powder, shake, and voila! Your results come in minutes. 

North Carolina University recommends the following tips for taking a soil sample for the most accurate results: 

  • Use chrome-plated or stainless-steel tools to take out a soil sample because other metals like brass can contaminate the sample and give you the wrong results 
  • Clear away any debris from the top of the soil like leaf piles and avoid spots with animal waste or standing water
  • Dig 6 to 10″ down into the soil and take a sample 
  • Take 6 to 8 other samples in the nearby area and combine them all
  • Remove any large objects from the samples like twigs or pebbles 

How To Change Your Soil’s pH Level 

So, you have tested your soil and gotten your results—now what? If the pH level is within the range your tree likes, then you are all good! Keep doing what you’re doing.

If the soil is outside of the tree’s ideal pH range, the tree will not grow as fast as it could be. Soils that are too acidic can hamper root growth and soils that are too alkaline cause thinned canopies and slower growth overall.

In a nutshell, soils outside of the ideal pH range for your tree will not allow enough nutrients to be absorbed and will cause multiple deficiencies and problems. 

To fix acidic soil, add lime to it, which you can do any time of year. You can use something like Down to Earth Organic Prilled Dolomite Lime for this job. You can apply this product easily by sprinkling it around the base of a tree out to the drip line. Use ½-1 pound of product per 1’ of trunk diameter and water the area generously once you’ve finished. 

To fix soil that is too alkaline, Iowa State University recommends using products like elemental sulfur and acidifying nitrogen to make the soil more acidic. Products like Mr. Fulvic Organic Fulvic Acid and Hydroponic Nutrient Enhancer work well to lower pH and make a better growing environment for your trees. 

You can apply this particular soil acidifier by adding 5mL of the product per gallon of water. A lot of users have reported improved soil and explosive growth with Mr. Fulvic.

If you are using any other products, check the label for instructions on using it so you do not overdo it with the chemicals. 

Conclusion

OK, so you have revived the soil and done the right things to bring the pH level back into the healthy range. Your tree can now thrive!

Now, your next steps are to wait and take care of your trees as usual. You will enjoy the results in the coming months and seasons as the trees grow to their fullest potential from the increase in nutrients and quality of the soil.

Good luck in your endeavors, and remember, you can always call a professional arborist to help you through every step of testing and maintaining soil health. They can take care of everything and encourage your trees’ ultimate growth!

References 

Bradley, Lucy, and Deanna Osmond. “A Gardener’s Guide to Soil Testing.” NC State Extension, NC State University, 20 August 2019. 

Chang, Yao-Tsung, et al. “Chemical stabilization of cadmium in acidic soil using alkaline agronomic and industrial by-products.” Journal of Environmental Science and Health, Part A, 1748-1756, 2013. 

Everhart, Eldon. “How To Change Your Soil’s PH.” Horticulture and Home Pest News, Iowa State University, 6 April 1994. 

Nathan, Manjula. “Fertilizing Acid Loving Landscape Plants.” Integrated Pest Management, University of Missouri, 1 May 2010. 

Williston, H.L., and R. LaFayette. “Species suitability and pH of soils in southern forests”. USDA Forest Service. Southeastern Area, State and Private Forestry. Forest Management Bulletin, 1978. 

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