Trees

Have you seen trees that offer 2 or 3 different types of apples? Or maybe a peach and plum tree at your garden store and wondered just how they do that?

It’s all done by grafting branches onto an existing rootstock, and it’s something that you can do at home. Today we will go over different varieties of fruit trees that can be grafted together, and how to do it. 

Generally speaking, there are lots of different fruit trees you can graft together, like stone fruits such as peaches, plums, and nectarines.

You can also graft various citrus fruits on one tree such as oranges, lemons, and limes. The trick to grafting is to use trees that are similar to one another! It can get pretty wild.

My family once had a citrus tree that carried 5 different citrus plants on one tree. Limes, lemons, oranges, tangerines, and Meyer lemons, but it was a very expensive tree. You too can graft such a tree yourself all while saving valuable yard space and money. Keep reading to learn how you can do it!

What Even Is Tree Grafting, Anyway?

Grafting is the process of taking a branch or a few branches and attaching them to a different tree to get either different colors of flowers—think roses—or different kinds of fruits on the same tree. 

The process takes small branches, also known as scions, and inserts them into either the trunk or other branches of an existing tree, known as the rootstock. When successful, the new branch is grafted onto a tree and from there it gains nutrients and water from the tree and will eventually produce fruit or flowers, becoming part of the tree!

Sometimes grafting is used to keep a certain type of tree alive, or to keep a tree producing the same quality fruits. If you plant seeds from a tree, you never know if they will grow into mature plants, or if they will produce the same quality fruits. 

With grafting, you can take the high-quality fruit tree, graft a branch and grow it into an exact copy of the parent plant that still produces the same great fruit. It helps to take away the guesswork and saves time compared to growing trees from seed. 

Why Should You Graft Different Trees?

There are several reasons why grafting trees might make sense. Grafting will save space in your garden and offer variety. Maybe you have a few fruit trees, but one is doing really well in producing plenty of fruit, while a few more just never seem to produce much.

If you have a lot of trees and want to keep them growing, grafting can be a way to keep the same tree growing indefinitely. Grafting can also save time compared to growing fruit trees from seeds and waiting for them to be mature enough to start producing fruits. 

Some plants, especially fruit trees cannot be economically reproduced by seed. This is because hybrid fruit seeds will grow back into their ancestral trees. 

Meaning the lush, fleshy, full apples you get from the market, will most likely grow into hard, small, and nearly inedible fruits if you plant them straight from the seed. In this way, grafting is essential to keep growing the same high-quality fruits we are accustomed to. 

Graft To Save Space In Your Garden

Say you have a granny smith apple tree in your yard that makes some great apple pie or cobblers, but they are a bit too tart to eat straight off of the tree. Instead of buying a honey crisp tree, a golden delicious tree, or other varieties and taking up your entire yard with different apple trees, you could graft a few branches to your granny smith tree and still have different varieties of apples from the same tree. 

It also makes sense to graft your own trees rather than buying pre-grafted trees from your garden center. You get to choose what varieties of fruits you are looking for and what you will be more likely to consume. 

Don’t have a garden? Never fear, just bring your tree indoors! Check out our article on the 7 easiest fruit trees to grow indoors.

Keep Your Tree Growing, Even After Its Prime

Trees don’t live forever. They can live for hundreds of years, but most fruit trees only produce fruit for 10 to 20 years. If you remember that apple tree in your grandmother’s yard, it may not be producing good fruit any longer. 

If it was grafted, however, it could continue to produce fruit and live on as a new tree producing the same fruit you remembered as a child.

You can do the same to your own fruit trees. If they look like they’re about to reach the end of their fruiting careers, take a cutting from that tree and graft into a newer rootstock and you basically have a new clone of your old, fading tree. 

Grafting Saves Time

Compared to growing fruit trees from seeds, grafting can save years of time. When planting trees from seed, you could possibly be waiting 10 to 20 years for that tree to start producing fruit, and even then, the fruit it produces might not be very good.

When you graft branches from a mature tree, you know what the fruit will be like, and it only takes about 2 to 3 years before it starts producing fruit. 

I know, you’re still looking at a handful of years and a lot can happen in that time, but compared to waiting decades, I can wait a few years for homegrown fruits in my own backyard.    

Grafting Offers Variety

Although we already touched on this, it bears repeating. Also, you don’t only have to stick to apple trees to have different varieties. You can even graft some varieties of pears to your apple trees. 

Do you have a peach or plum tree? Why not have both? If you have a stone fruit tree you can potentially graft any other stone fruit to that tree such as apricots, nectarines, white peaches, or other kinds. 

What Fruit Trees Can I Graft Together?

Don’t get too carried away here and think you could have a ready-made fruit salad tree! You won’t be able to graft citrus, apples, plums, cherries, and mangoes together. The trees do have to be in the same family and have similar cell structures or they won’t take. 

Most woody plants (trees and shrubs) will take to being grafted, but it can be difficult without the proper amount of skill and education.  

Graft Citrus Together

Remember the citrus tree with five different fruits on it? They were all citrus trees, that’s why they worked so well. There are a lot of varieties here, you could have grapefruit, pummelos, kumquats, or tangerines, mandarins, and navel oranges. Whatever you could think of, as long as they are still citrus trees. 

Learn more about citrus tree care by taking a look at our article all about pruning your orange tree and other care tips.

Apple Trees Varieties Are A Match

You go to the local farmer’s market or grocery store and notice an ever-increasing lineup of apple varieties, well, these can all be grafted together too. You’ll know if a graft takes because after a few weeks, either it will take and start growing, or the scion will die off. 

Stone Fruit Trees Get Along Well

These trees include soft, fleshy fruits that contain hard, stone-like pits in the middle, encasing a seed. Peaches, nectarines, plums, apricots, and cherries, are all considered stone fruits, and they can be grafted interchangeably. 

Graft Multiple Types Of Pear Trees

You can graft all kinds of different pears to each other including Asian pears, and quince. You might be able to graft apple and pear trees together as well but that requires some experimentation. 

You Can Even Graft Persimmons

Persimmon trees can produce a lot of fruit, but unfortunately, they can only be grafted inside the family of other persimmons. You do still have variety here as you can graft American persimmon, Oriental persimmon, and the date-plum together.  

Can I Just Graft Any Old Trees Together?

This answer is both yes and no. Whereas you can graft nearly any of the same two trees together, you won’t be able to graft say a pine tree with a fig tree.

You can graft apples to apples, oranges to oranges, and figs to figs, but don’t get excited thinking you’ll be able to create a mashup of an avocado and a mango tree I’d affectionately call an “avocango” tree!

If you’re grafting at home, keep your experiments to trees of similar types to prevent a lot of disappointments. 

Another thing to take into consideration when you decide to start grafting is your hardiness zone. You’ll still need to stick to trees that grow well in your zone. For example, if you live in the south where the summers can be quite hot and humid, your cold-loving plants most likely won’t survive the harsh heat and vice versa. 

How To Graft Your Trees The Right Way

There are several different ways to graft your trees, but we will keep it limited to three of the most popular and easier ways.

Grafting overall isn’t particularly easy, but once you get the hang of it, the biggest obstacle will be seeing if the pieces accept each other. There may be many things that keep your graft from growing properly and we will go over some of these possibilities.

The Right Time To Start Your Graft

You want to start grafting in the early spring after frost is no longer a threat, right about when your rootstock is starting to sprout new leaves. This gives the tree time to heal before summer sets in and all growing slow down. The spring is when trees do most of their growing and a great time for them to heal. 

Pick Your Tree To Graft

You want to start with a rootstock that isn’t too young or too old, but this also depends on how you are going to graft your tree.

This is assuming you have a tree that is established, is at least 5 to 10 years old, and possibly bearing fruit already. 

You can graft an entire, sapling, or tree to a root ball, but that’s a bit advanced and has a higher chance of failure, so in the interest of keeping things simple we won’t go into that in this article. 

When choosing your tree, you don’t want to start grafting the fruit tree you just purchased from your local garden center. You should have a tree that is established for a year or two.

When you plant a new tree, it really needs time to settle in, get its roots into the ground and be a well-established tree before you start cutting wounds into it. 

Pick Your Scions

When picking the scions (branches) you will be using for grafting, you should do this before the tree comes out of dormancy. This is usually done before you start grafting, and you will need to store them properly for a few weeks.

Look for straight branches that do not have any other branches going perpendicular. They need to be about pencil thick in diameter, and about 12” to 18” long. Water sprouts work great for scions, and since they normally get cut off during trimming, why not place them where they will be useful?

Since it’s probably too soon to graft them into place, you’ll need to store your scions. Use food-grade storage bags to store them and add a damp paper towel or damp sphagnum moss in the bag with the scions, and place them in the refrigerator; the crisper drawer works great here. 

You’ll have to store these until your rootstock begins to open up and fluff out their new leaves. Depending on where you live this could be as early as March or into late April. Just make sure your scions are not too wet or get dried out. 

Materials Needed For Grafting

When you begin grafting you’ll need a few tools to get started.

You’ll need things such as:

• Sharp pruning shears
• Loppers or fine-toothed saw
• Razor knife
• Gloves
• Grafting tape or electrical tape
• Wax tree sealant (optional depending on what kind of grafting you are doing)

You can use the MESTUDIO Grafting Tool Set, it has literally everything you need to start grafting on your own, including professional grafting pruners and grafting tape! For your sealant wax, we recommend using Walter E. Clark Trowbridge’s Grafting Wax, which has great reviews and will be perfect for your grafting projects.

A quick note here about taping your graft. Grafting tape works the best here because you won’t have to go back and cut it loose. It is made to hold long enough for the graft to fuse together, then it begins to deteriorate and fall off.

If you use something like electrical tape, you will have to remember to cut it loose so that it doesn’t act like a tourniquet and strangle your new graft. 

We’ve got even more for you to learn along your tree journey! Check out our article: Full Mango Tree Lifespan (And How To Grow Them)!

Cleft Grafting

Before cutting into your trees or removing scions, we want to make sure all of your cutting tools are clean, rust-free, and have been disinfected, this will ensure a clean and healthy cut.

A cleft graft is probably the easiest grafting technique to do. In a nutshell, you cut your rootstock branch straight and flat, cut a cleft into it, whittle down your scion, and shove it into the cleft, then seal everything up. 

With a cleft graft, you could potentially graft a few different branches into the same rootstock, if your rootstock is much bigger than your scions but we will stick with one right now. Once you have the hang of it and become a seasoned professional, you can attempt the multi-cleft graft. 

First off, find a branch about an inch thick on your rootstock where you will add your graft. Using sharp loppers or a fine-toothed saw, cut the branch off as clean and straight as you can.

Next, using your razor knife, carefully cut a straight cleft into the rootstock about an inch and a half deep. Take care here not to cut yourself or slice a large chunk off of the tree. If you rock your blade back and forth, you will have more control in your cleft cut.

Now you’ll take your scion, using your sharp knife, cut the end of your scion into a flat wedge. Cut on one side, then the other side evenly to make a flat wedge shape. This end you will insert into the cleft you made into your rootstock. You have now grafted your tree, but you’re not done yet. 

Use your sealing wax to seal the wound, then wrap it well with your grafting tape.

Now you can stand back and admire your handy work. 

Depending on the size of the tree, if you’re willing to keep going you could graft another place or two onto the same tree.

Be sure not to do more than 3 or 4, just to keep from opening up too many wounds on your tree, especially if it’s a younger specimen. 

Whip Grafting

Whip grafting is done at the same time in the growing season as cleft grafting is done, but this works with branches that are about the same size in diameter. Whip grafting typically does less damage to the tree than cleft grafting. 

Start off by finding a branch on your rootstock that’s the same diameter as your scion, then you have a couple of options here. You can cut it straight off with a single slice, or you can cut a v-shape into it, but your scion has to be cut to fit into the v-shape.

Either way, once you have your rootstock and scion cut and the pieces meet up together well, wrap them together with your tape nice and tight so that the scion doesn’t bend, or fall off. The better they connect, and stay connected, the better they will mend. 

There is no need for sealant wax here, as the tape wraps everything tight and keeps the area free from the elements.  

Bud Grafting

You’ll need a steady hand and a sharp knife for bud grafting. Here you will be cutting out a small section instead of cutting out an entire branch, then replacing that section with a bud from your donor tree.

This method works well with citrus plants.

On your rootstock, you’ll cut a shallow slice where you want the graft to go. You’re cutting just below the bark area in a shape as close as possible to your bud piece and vice versa. Also, leave a small flap of loose bark that the bud will be tucked into. 

From your scion or donor tree, find a section that has a bud starting off but not opened up yet. Patience and precision are key, as you want to slice a small piece of the tree, including the bud off of the donor.

Start above the bud, slice down past the bud, but not all the way through. Next at the bottom where you stopped cutting cut the bud free leaving a little wedge at the bottom of the bud piece. 

The bottom should be able to rest inside the loose flap of bark on your rootstock. This helps to hold the bud graft in place. 

Be careful not to touch the open, cut areas of the bud graft. Also, you don’t want to break off the tender bud, because it won’t grow back.

We know you got this though! You want to make sure your pieces line up as close as possible. Trim them if needed. Once they fit well, wrap it with your grafting tape. 

Wrap the entire piece up with several layers of tape. Keep the wrapping snug but not terribly tight, you don’t want to damage the bud. Keep this area and the tender bud in the shade for a few weeks if at all possible as this keeps the sun from drying out the graft. 

Then after three or four weeks, remove the tape and check your progress. The tree should have swollen up and incorporated the bud into the branch. 

Where Can You Get Grafting Scions?

If you don’t have a wide array of fruit trees to experiment with, it might be hard to start grafting your trees, so where can you go to find viable scions? Your local garden superstore might not appreciate you “trimming” their fruit trees and buying several trees just to get some foot-long scions could get expensive. 

Seek out friends and family if they have fruit trees they’d be willing to share with you. Maybe you could trade scions, then you’d both have some hybrid fruiting trees. You might be able to find some viable options in the wild, but I wouldn’t hold my breath looking for fruit trees in the wild. 

Did you know you can find viable scions and even rootstock online? Do a quick online search if you have no other options, or check with your local nursery. They might even be willing to sell you a few if they have them in stock. 

Just be mindful of what kind you purchase, and make sure your scions are either native to your area or are hardy in your growing zone. 

How Long Does It Take The Tree To Heal?

It may take anywhere from 4 to 6 weeks for your graft to heal, and most of the growing season for it to truly strengthen. During that time, it’s best not to trim your tree. Let it grow on its own, and you can always trim it next year if it needs it. 

During this time, the tree could certainly benefit from a dose of fertilizer to help stimulate more growth. Look for organic fertilizer that is safe for fruits and vegetables, since you will be eating the fruits once they are ripe and ready. 

Another consideration to think about, when grafting, you might want to tag your branches so you know what fruit will be coming from those branches, and just in case you forget and trim the grafted branch too much. We don’t want all your hard work gone in one accidental snip!

Read all about the full timeline of growing a lemon tree in our article to get better sense of how long you’ll have to wait to enjoy the fruits of your labor!

There You Have It!

You want to keep the varieties of trees you graft together as close to the same family as possible, also while keeping the rootstock and scions to your hardiness zone. It may take a few tries to get the technique down, but with practice comes perfection. 

Now you know all about grafting; why it’s done, the practical uses, which fruit trees you can graft, and even how to graft fruit trees yourself. Go out there and start experimenting; make your own Franken trees with different fruits and have fun!

Want to learn more about trees along your tree journey? Check out our article 7 Best Fruit Trees for Rocky Soil (And How to Plant Them)!

References

Goldschmidt EE. Plant grafting: new mechanisms, evolutionary implications. Front Plant Sci. 2014;5:727. Published 2014 Dec 17. doi:10.3389/fpls.2014.00727

Habibi F, Liu T, Folta K, Sarkhosh A. Physiological, biochemical, and molecular aspects of grafting in fruit trees. Hortic Res. 2022 Feb 19:uhac032. doi: 10.1093/hr/uhac032. Epub ahead of print. PMID: 35184166.

Melnyk CW. Plant grafting: insights into tissue regeneration. Regeneration (Oxf). 2016;4(1):3-14. Published 2016 Dec 21. doi:10.1002/reg2.71

Mahama, A. Assibi; Sparks, Brian; Zalesny, Ronald S., Jr.; Hall, Richard B. 2006. Successful grafting in poplar species (Populus spp.) breeding. In: In: Seventh biennial conference of the short rotation woody crops operations working group: short rotation woody crop production systems for wood products, bioenergy and environmental services; 2006 September 25-28; Pasco, WA.

Pecans are a popular nut, found in everything from pies to salads, as well as other desserts, and even in addition to many savory dishes. So, in eating pecans, did you ever wonder how they actually grow? Maybe you’ve seen them on a tree recently, and want to know where all pecans can grow. 

Pecans start to grow on pecan trees that are between the ages of 4 and 12 years old. Pecan trees can grow across the world, from the United States to Argentina, South Africa to Mexico, and China to Peru. 

Stick with me here to learn about all of the different regions of the world, and more specifically the United States, where pecan trees can grow. And before you know it, maybe you’ll be growing your own pecan tree!

Where Are Pecan Trees Originally From?

According to the University of Kentucky’s Center for Crop Diversification, the pecan tree itself is native to North America, including the United States and Mexico.

Pecan trees were harvested for food, and for centuries pecans were a part of the transatlantic trade routes.

Eventually, European explorers ventured over and began to harvest pecans for both food and pecan lumber, which furniture makers held in high regard. By the 20th century, the pecan industry was booming. Thus, the reason for the shift in pecan trees being traded and transported around the world. 

Key Pecan Tree Characteristics

Pecan trees are a big deal throughout history, and today still a hot commodity! When thinking about pecan trees, there are a few main characteristics that make them so special – and things you may want to consider before planting!

• Pecan trees are large deciduous trees, meaning that they lose their leaves as they go into their dormant state during the colder months of the year. , 
• A pecan tree’s leaves alternate in pattern to create a unique look. 
• They can mature to anywhere between 20-40 meters in height
• Pecans aren’t actually nuts – they’re drupes! Let’s talk about this for a second. 

Pecans Aren’t Actually Nuts!

These trees are members of the hickory genus, which means that technically pecans are not a nut. Wait…what?

Pecans are technically classified as a drupe, in the same way, that peaches, coconuts, and dates are!

According to the National Phenology Network, a drupe is a one-seeded fruit that is either fleshy or pulpy. It is a ‘fruit’ that has developed from one flower having a single ovary, and the seed has a hard or stony endocarp (AKA: the pit.)

Now that you know a little background on pecan trees – let’s get into it – where do pecan trees commonly grow?

Pecan Tree Growing Zones

These trees grow in areas that are generally warmer, but pecan trees can also be cold-hardy. In the United States, you’ll find them located in USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9. 

While pecan trees can be found in countries all around the world that have similar environments, we’ll use the USDA’s growing zone map to discuss hardiness zones and what those look like.

It is a very digestible way to understand how the cold hardiness of trees can relate to the different zones of the country. We’ll talk more about the importance of hardiness zones later!

Without further ado – let’s get to it! Here are the common places where pecan trees grow!

7 Common Places That Pecan Trees Grow

According to New Mexico State University’s Pecan Toolbox, major areas of production are spread across the United States, Mexico, and South Africa. 

Pecan growth started naturally in regions that were more humid and subtropical. Now, many of the regions that we talk about below will fall into the category of humid (best for growth), semi-arid, or arid (worst for growth.) 

We’ll dive into these areas below!

North America- Southeast United States

Pecans are a major product that comes out of the southeast region of the country, Georgia, New Mexico, Arizona, Texas, and Oklahoma are all major areas of pecan production within the states. 

It should be noted that the southern parts of the state that are west of central Texas, such as New Mexico and Arizona, are entirely dependent on irrigation systems to ensure that pecans grow well. Trees are more susceptible to disease in these regions, as their growing conditions are not quite as ideal.

For this reason, the American south and southeast are the best areas to grow pecans thanks to their long, hot, and unquestionably humid summers.

Pecan pie, pecan cookies, and pecans in a salad (sweet and savory) are just a few examples of the regional dishes you’ll find that use pecans heavily here.

North America – Mexico

Let’s not forget that Mexico was another one of the earliest places where pecans were recorded growing. In fact, today, Mexico produces nearly half of all the world’s pecans!

The states of Chihuahua, Coahuila, and Sonora are where you will find the most pecans being produced. 

Dishes like an Oaxacan bowl topped with pecans, pecan cookies, and even cream of pecan soup, are all typical dishes that can be found and enjoyed throughout these parts of Mexico.

Mexico produces 80,000 tons of pecans per year, which are sent around the world for people to buy and enjoy.

Africa – South Africa

Another country that is one of the main producers of pecans, South Africa, might be a bit more surprising.

This country is in a great spot in the world to have prime conditions for growing pecans. With a climate that borders subtropical and tropical, a sufficient amount of rainfall, and fertile, well-drained soil, pecan trees can thrive in South Africa.  

According to the South African Government, the Vaalharts and lower Orange river regions of the Northern Cape province are now home to major production of pecan nuts. However, pecan trees can be found growing in all provinces of the country.

Here, you’ll see pecan pie, cape brandy tart with pecans, and other delicious dishes that feature pecans.

While South Africa is the biggest pecan producer on the continent, other countries like Zimbabwe also produce this drupe.

Asia – China

The continent of Asia also has a stake in the world of pecans, and China is the main producer in this part of the world.

Since about 2017, China has been amping up its pecan production, as the health benefits of this nut are becoming more apparent and increasing its value.

Chinese five-spice candied pecans have become popular, as have Chinese fried pecans. These pecans are also often seen as an addition to Chinese dishes like chicken, carrot salads, and more. 

Australia

Does this one seem far out? After all, Australia is far from the Americas and Africa, and even China seems like a world away. Welcome to the globalized world, my friends. Australia is also a producer of pecans!

Common issues like scab disease, seen in the United States, do not impact Australian pecans, making their products even simpler. 

The country ships many pecans during the off-season in the Americas, which sees pecans being shipped just in time for those popular winter holiday dishes like pecan pie and other pecan-flavored items.

Australians themselves enjoy a good pecan pie, their own variation on salads with pecans, and pecan-apple pull-apart.

South America – Peru

Since pecans originated in the North part of the Americas, it is no shock that this crop worked its way down to South America during colonization periods.

Peru is a producer of this drupe, as well, and represents the western part of the continent while many of its neighbors are not major players in pecan production.

Exports are gradually growing, as Peruvian pecans tend to be much larger in size than the native crops of North America.

Ají de gallina, a popular dish with peppers, chicken, and Peruvian pecans, is quite a popular dish in this country. You’ll also find sweets like chocotejas. These dumpling-like chocolates tend to have a fruit or nut center along with a caramel-type filling.

South America- Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay

Peru is not the only part of South America where pecan trees can be found growing. Pecans grow in the countries of Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil, which all happen to be in the same eastern region of South America. 

Brazil borders Uruguay to the north and Argentina sits in the western part of the tiny country. One thing they all have in common? Warm, subtropical environments where pecan trees can thrive. 

Uruguay’s classic sandwich, the chivito, can often be found with a chicken salad that has none other than pecans mixed in. Pecan pie is a staple in Argentina’s dessert world, and pecan truffles can be found in Brazil. 

Do Pecans Only Grow on Trees?

Pecan trees are deciduous trees that are part of the hickory genus and produce a drupe that is often referred to as pecans or pecan nuts. 

Pecans only grow on these trees, which tend to grow quite tall and wide. Unlike some species, the pecan tree only grows as a tree, not a bush or any other type of plant. 

So, yes. You will only find pecans growing on trees in environments that are humid and subtropical, with sand that is loamy, fertile, and well-drained. 

How Do Pecans Actually Form and Grow on a Tree?

Pecan trees grow naturally in groves, where trees are close to one another. Their roots system can go for twice as far as their canopies – so close is a relative term. 

You may also see pecan trees growing in orchards, which are more organized, man-made, rows of pecan trees. With an orchard, pecans are able to be more quickly and methodically harvested. 

Generally, pecan trees that have matured enough to bear fruit will be between the ages of 4 and 12. The age of maturity will depend on factors like weather, planting time, and overall maintenance.

Breakdown of the Requirements To Grow A Pecan Tree

Now you know a bit more about the history of pecan trees, where they grow, and what temperatures they thrive in – let’s break it down, so you can easily remember some key facts about growing a pecan tree if you desire to do so!

• Temperature: Your pecan tree will do best in a range of 40 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, though it can survive in extremely low temperatures as low as -20 degrees Fahrenheit. 
  
• Soil: Sandy, loamy soil, or even more clay-based soil is going to be best for growing a pecan tree successfully. Overall, fertile and well-drained soil is key!
  
• Sun: Sunny conditions are great for pecans! They should get about 6-8 hours of sunlight a day, to keep them happy.
  
• Timing: February, or another time close to late winter and early spring like March, is the best time you could plant your pecan tree. This allows the winter frost to have died out but enough time for your tree to settle in before the blooming season and warm weather sees soil getting drier.
  
• Rainfall: 1-2 inches of rainfall a week is necessary to keep your pecan tree well. If the tree is still maturing, it will need more water. If it is a particularly dry summer, it will also need more water. Use a Flantor Garden Irrigation System if you need to help your tree get the proper amount of water.
  
• Fertilizer: Pecan palm trees will thrive with a fertilizer like Carl Pool Pecan Special Fertilizer. Its NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) balance is 18-6-6, so your tree gets some extra nitrogen and an otherwise balanced fertilizer to help it grow quickly.

Why Are Hardiness Zones Important?

As promised, before we go – I wanted to let you know a little more about hardiness zones and why they’re important!

Firstly, to understand hardiness zones, you should be familiar with the way that they are broken down!

Zones Are Split

Zones are split into 10-degree intervals with numbers to label them and then further broken up into 5-degree intervals noted by the sub-labels of A or B. 

For example, say you are looking at an area that is categorized as hardiness zone 8a. You know that 8 signifies the 10-degree (Fahrenheit) range of 10 to 20 degrees, but since you see a the area is actually in the narrowed-down range of 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit. 

They Tell You How Cold Hardy The Plant Is

The temperatures that you see in these hardiness zones are not just average temperatures, though.

The term hardiness refers to how cold hardy a plant is, or how viable it is that it will thrive in certain extreme cold temperatures. 

So, the hardiness zone 8a would mean that this area has extreme minimum temperatures, on average, of 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit. When you know what trees can survive this, including pecan trees, you’ll have an idea of what plants you can grow in your zone.

Hardiness Zones Help you See Which Plants Can Survive A Winter

Keep in mind that this is an average extreme low temperature, so hardiness zones don’t just refer to the typical cold weather of a region.

These zones are specifically designed to see what plants will be able to survive during a winter where temperatures hit extreme lows. 

Generally, pecan trees like low temperatures of about 40 degrees and prefer not to go over 80 degrees in the summer. 

However, based on what they can physically withstand, the average extremely low temperature a pecan tree can handle ranges from -20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Now that you know more about where pecan trees grow – it’s time to go!

It’s Time To Go

Pecan trees prefer areas that are hot and humid, bordering on subtropical. 

First found in what is now Mexico and the United States, these trees have been around for a long time, and served as a great source of food far before European populations began to cultivate them. 

These trees have since spread across the world, but are a very common plant to find in much of their native continent of North America.

Here are the 7 most common places where pecan trees grow:

• United States- Southeast 
• Mexico- North
• South Africa- North
• China
• Australia
• Peru
• Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay

With that, happy planting. Oh, and best of luck as you continue on your tree journey!

References

Onunkwo, I. M., & Epperson, J. E. (2000). Export demand for US pecans: Impacts of US export promotion programs. Agribusiness: An International Journal, 16(2), 253-265.

Orona Castillo, I., Sangerman-Jarquín, D. M., Cervantes Vázquez, M. G., Espinoza Arellano, J. D. J., & Núñez Moreno, J. H. (2019). The production and commercialization of pecan nut in Mexico. Revista mexicana de ciencias agrícolas, 10(8), 1797-1808.

Wood, B. W., Payne, J. A., & Grauke, L. J. (1994). An overview of the evolution of the US pecan industry. Pecan technology, 1-11.

In this day and age, people are wanting to become more self-reliant, especially with growing their food. Biting into a juicy peach or apple that you grew yourself can feel like the best thing in the world. But, if you grow your own, can you plant apple and peach trees together?

Apple and peach trees can be planted together! Both apple and peach trees have the same requirements of full sun, well-draining, and acidic soils. They can also both grow in the same USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8.

In this article, we’ll go into just why you can plant apple and peach trees together! Keep reading to learn why these fruit trees can be planted together!

Basic Apple Tree Care

Despite what you might think, apple trees can grow in USDA Hardiness Zones 3-8. That was a shock to me since Zone 8 is most of the southern United States.

When we think of apple trees we picture apple orchards where you can go apple picking in the fall. But, did you know that there are dwarf varieties of apple trees that make it easy to grow in small or urban spaces?

Yes, dwarf apple tree varieties that reach only 10-12 feet tall instead of the standard, which is around 30 feet tall. 

If you want to start an apple tree of your very own from the start, consider getting something like this Big Pack Of Red Delicious Apple Seeds!

Additionally, according to the University of California, during the summertime, a mature apple tree can require 50 gallons of water per day!

Unlike some stone fruit trees, apple trees need what is referred to as cross-pollination. They require a different cultivar of apple trees to pollinate one another, so they also must flower at the same time! Without this, your apple tree may not produce much fruit, or you’ll get some wonky-shaped fruit.

Guide To Planting Apple Trees

When you go to plant an apple tree, there are a few things to be aware of to ensure the most success for your new fruit tree. 

Container-Grown Or Bare-Root

If you are planting an apple tree from a container, you can transplant it at any time during the growing season without worry. 

However, if you are planting a bare-root tree, you should plant it in the early spring to ensure your tree thrives. 

The only difference between a container-grown apple tree and a bare-root apple tree is that the container-grown apple tree will have soil around its roots, whereas the bare-root, hence, its name, will be stored without soil around its roots. 

Location, Location, Location

When planting your apple tree you want to make sure it’s in an area of full sun! This means that your apple tree will get at least six hours of sun every day. 

Apple trees also tolerate a variety of soils but will do best in well-draining soils, including sandy soil. They won’t do as well in soils that are poor-draining, with heavy clay content. Soils that are poor-draining and don’t allow airflow result in mold, and fungal diseases for fruit trees. 

Apple trees also prefer a neutral to acidic soil pH, so anywhere with a soil that is between pH 5.50-7.0 will do for your apple tree.

Planting Time!

So, you now know some key points before planting your apple tree, now let’s get to it!

If you have a container-grown apple tree then you’ll want to water your tree in the container and soak it well, and then you’re ready to plant!

If you have a bare-root tree, check the roots before planting. If they look as if they’ve dried out, you can soak the tree roots in water for 24 hours, before you plant the tree. If they look hydrated, then you’re ready to go!

Since apple trees need another apple tree to pollinate and produce fruit, you’ll want to leave 15-20 feet of spacing, for taller varieties, and 6-8 feet of spacing, for dwarf varieties.

So, you’ve got your ready to plant trees and the proper spacing. Next, you’ll want to dig a hole that is twice the size of the diameter of the roots and as deep as the roots. You can guesstimate, it doesn’t have to be perfect!

Put the tree in the hole you dig and cover up the roots with soil. You want to make sure when you fill the hole with the soil that it is fairly firm, but don’t pack it in too tightly. 

This is to ensure there aren’t any air pockets and that roots can grow, and water and nutrients can get to the tree without any issues. As long as you use your hands to pack it in, you should be good to go!

Make sure that the top of the soil, or the ground, doesn’t cover any higher than where the highest roots are, otherwise your tree will likely suffer. 

You can grow your apple tree along a fence, a trellis, or with posts in the ground, this will offer support for your apple tree as it grows to prevent uprooting. 

After your apple tree is planted, make sure to water it well, at this point you can flood it with water.

Water your young apple tree at least once a week, and in drought conditions or hot weather, you may have to water it once every 2-3 days. 

Apple trees are incredibly susceptible to pests, so you’ll want to use a pesticide to keep your apple tree healthy and limit the number of pests. We recommend Bonide (BND217) Chemical 217 Citrus Fruit and Nut Orchard Spray Concentrate, which not only prevents pests, but prevents fruit tree diseases, and is even a foliage protectant!

Basic Peach Tree Care

Surprisingly, peach trees can grow in USDA Hardiness Zones 4-9. Why is this surprising? Because this includes the northeast United States, parts of Canada, and even the Colorado Rocky Mountains. I always thought it would be too cold in these regions to grow peach trees, but it’s not!

Just like apple trees, there are dwarf cultivars of peach trees that grow to only 8-10 feet! Or, the standard peach tree, which grows to 25 feet.

To start a peach tree of your very own, get something like this 10-Pack Dwarf Peach Tree Seeds.  

According to Rutgers University, mature peach trees require roughly 35-40 gallons of water per day during summertime!

Soil Type And Location For Peach Trees

Unlike apple trees, peach trees, like some stone fruit trees, are self-pollinators, meaning they don’t require cross-pollination as apple trees do. As long as there are pollinators, peach trees can produce fruit on their own. 

Like apple trees, peach trees are full of sun, with at least six hours of sunlight per day. 

Peach trees do best in sandy, well-draining soil. Just like apple trees, they won’t do well in soils that are poor-draining, with heavy clay content, due to lack of air and water flow. 

Peach trees also prefer a neutral to acidic soil pH, so anywhere with soil that is between pH 5.50-7.0 is ideal for your peach tree.

Want to learn more about soil pH? We’ve got you covered! Check out our article What pH Level Do Trees Like For Best Growth?

Planting Peach Trees

Planting peach trees is just like planting apple trees. We’ll go over a few of the things we covered for apple trees so that you can have peace of mind when planting your peach tree. 

The same thing applies if you have a container-grown peach tree or a bare-root peach tree. Make sure to hydrate your tree before planting as we mentioned above, by either soaking your bare-root tree in water 24 hours before planting or watering/soaking your container-grown peach tree before planting. 

You won’t need to plant an additional peachtree for pollination, but if you are going to plant other fruit varieties, like apple trees along with your peach tree, you’ll want to leave 15-20 feet of spacing, for taller varieties, and 6-8 feet of spacing, for dwarf varieties.

Dig a hole that is twice the size of the diameter of the roots and as deep as the roots, this is pretty standard for most trees. 

Now you can put the tree in the hole you dug and cover up the roots with soil, packing it in firmly, but not too tightly. As long as you use your hands to pack it in, you should be good to go!

Again, just make sure that the top of the soil, or the ground, doesn’t cover any higher than where the highest roots are, otherwise your tree will likely suffer. 

Just like the apple tree, you can grow your peach tree along a fence, a trellis, or with stakes in the ground, this will offer the necessary support.

Now that it’s planted, water your peach tree well, at this point you can flood it with water.

Water your young peach tree at least once a week, and in drought conditions or hot weather, you may have to water it once every 2-3 days. 

So now that we’ve covered apple trees and peach trees, back to the question at hand, can apple and peach trees be planted together? Yes! 

Let’s break down the things we went over above as to why they can be planted together!

Apple And Peach Trees Can Be Planted Together Because They Have The Same Sun Requirements

So, as we mentioned, whatever tree or trees you decide to plant, they will do well in full sun. 

Because apple and peach trees both require full sun, they can be planted together. Now, if they had different light requirements, they could probably still be planted together, but it may complicate things.

Apple And Peach Trees Grow In The Same Zones

Apple and peach trees can be planted in USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Apple trees can be grown in Zones 3-8, and peach trees can be grown in Zones 4-9. 

When deciding what apple and peach trees to plant together, you’ll want to make sure you choose varieties that grow in the same zones. But because they both grow in a handful of the same zones, apple and peach trees can be planted together. 

Apple And Peach Trees Can Grow In The Same Types Of Soils

This is another important reason that apple trees and peach trees can be planted together, both do well in sandy, well-draining soils that have neutral to acidic pH. 

If they grew in different types of soil, say sandy and clayey, then this would be an issue due to the water retention of the soil, the available nutrients, and overall differences in soil and its pH.

Apple And Peach Trees Can Be Planted Together Because They Require Similar Soil pH

Soil pH goes hand in hand with the type of soil it is. Both apple trees and peach trees require soils that are sandy and well-draining, which are generally neutral and acidic.

This makes sense that both types of trees require neutral to acidic, with pH anywhere from 5.5-7.0, since the soil they grow best in is the soil type with that pH.

Apple And Peach Trees Have Similar Water Requirements

Apple trees and peach trees both have similar water requirements, meaning that you don’t have to worry about one or the other sucking up all of the water causing the other tree to suffer. 

They both require quite a bit of water during summertime, with apple trees needing about 50 gallons of water per day and peach trees needing 35-40 gallons of water per day. 

Apple And Peach Trees Grow Similarly

Depending on the variety you choose, you don’t have to worry about either tree towering over the other and blocking out the sun. Both fruit trees have dwarf varieties that grow anywhere between 10-15 feet. 

But, before you go to plant, just make sure that you have apple and peach tree varieties that grow to similar heights, and not one a standard height (30 feet) and the other a dwarf height (10-15 feet). 

Wrapping Up!

Thanks for reading with us, we hope you learned why apple and peach trees can be planted together!

Let’s recap the main points of this article in case you forgot.

Apple and peach trees can be planted together! They can be planted together because apple and peach trees have the same growing requirements of full sun, well-draining, and acidic soils. Additionally, they can also both grow in the same USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8.

Unlike peach trees, which are self-pollinators, apple trees need what is referred to as cross-pollination. They require a different cultivar of apple trees to pollinate each other, meaning they also must flower at the same time. Otherwise, you’re liable to get some wonky fruit, if many at that.

After planting your trees together, we recommend something like Dr. Earth Organic Fruit Tree Fertilizer to keep them happy and healthy!

Lastly, when planting apple and peach trees together, make sure to get varieties that grow to similar heights and grow in the same zones!

If you want to learn more about fruit trees, check out our article 7 Best Fruit Trees for Rocky Soil (And How to Plant Them)! You could also check out a book such as Growing Fruit Trees: Novel Concepts And Practices.

References:

Byers, R. E., C. G. Lyons, K. S. Yoder, J. A. Barden, and R. W. Young. “Peach and apple thinning by shading and photosynthetic inhibition.” Journal of Horticultural Science 60, no. 4 (1985): 465-472.

Cullinan, F. P., & Batjer, L. P. (1943). Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium Inter-Relationships in Young Peach and Apple Trees. Soil Science, 55(1), 49-60.

Gur, A., & Sarig, P. (1982). Application of growth regulators to peach and apple trees growing under stress conditions in shallow and stony soils. Growth Regulators, XXI IHC 137, 153-168.

Piñero, Jaime C., and Silvia Dorn. “Response of female oriental fruit moth to volatiles from apple and peach trees at three phenological stages.” Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata 131, no. 1 (2009): 67-74.

Remorini, D., & Massai, R. (2003). Comparison of water status indicators for young peach trees. Irrigation Science, 22(1), 39-46.

By now we have all heard of maple syrup and probably have tasted the sweet, sugary, maple-y goodness. Whether as iconic maple syrup, maple candies or possibly maple cotton candy. But did you know you can also tap birch trees in much the same way? They certainly can, but which different birch trees can be tapped?

You can tap pretty much any species of birch tree. Although yellow birch sap contains the highest level of antioxidants, the paper birch tree contains the most sugar. The trees should be at least 8” in diameter, but larger, healthy trees are recommended. 

Now you know you can tap birch trees for their sap. How do you accomplish it, what equipment will you need, what can you do with the sap, and is it even worth it to collect? Let us dive into today’s topic. 

Why Should You Tap Birch Trees?

Ok, so you noticed some thick, papery bark-covered birch trees on your property and you now know you can tap them. You might collect gallons of sap from each tree. Why should you go through the hassle of tapping and collecting it all?

Birch Syrup Is Expensive

Maple syrup is rather expensive because of its limited supply and because it takes nearly 40 gallons of sap to make one gallon of syrup. Birch syrup requires much more sap, anywhere from 110 to 200 gallons of sap to cook down one gallon of syrup. This alone makes it expensive, but factor in other variables, and birch syrup skyrockets in price.

Cornell College of Agriculture and Life Sciences tells us birch syrup sells for 3 to 5 times more retail than maple syrup. Mainly because birch syrup is more costly to produce in Alaska and Canada, and it takes so much more birch sap than maple to make the same amount of syrup. Then factor in the high demand compared to the limited supply, and you have yourself an expensive product. 

If you want birch syrup, it’s worth it to harvest and cook it down yourself. 

Birch Sap Great If You Are Homesteading Or Living Off The Grid

If you are working on becoming self-sufficient, already are, or want to get off the grid, then it pays to know about all the alternative uses for nature and what is available to you.

You can collect birch tree sap for cleansing, vitamin, and mineral-infused hydration, syrup, or other items. There may not be any maple trees around your area, but you have plenty of birch trees lining the stream, and you can still make syrup from the sap.  

Surprisingly, Birch Sap Is Good For You

The tree itself uses the sap to kick-start the growth period, so it is packed full of vitamins, amino acids, minerals, and other nutrients. The sap is also low in sugar, and the sugar it contains—fructose and xylitol—will not spike your sugar like corn sugar and cane sugar. 

Do not worry about harming the tree by tapping it. When done the correct way, tapping it and collecting sap will not harm the tree. It will still grow fine, and a strong, healthy tree will recover easily from the hole drilled into it. 

You May Enjoy The Taste Of Birch Sap

Say you harvest several gallons of sap, take it home, and carefully cook it down into syrup. It will not taste like maple syrup and some people complain about birch syrup, but you may find that you like it. You will not know unless you try it, right? 

Why Else Should I Tap Birch Trees?

Football season is over, it’s a long time before it starts again, it’s too early to plant your garden, but you still want to do something outside. Instead of sitting inside with the “ho-hums”, go out there and start tapping some birch trees. Not only will you be out getting some exercise and sun after a long dreary winter, but you will learn a new skill with added benefits. 

Which Birch Trees Can Be Tapped? 

There are dozens of different birch trees, all of which can be tapped to collect their sap. Each one has different subtleties in flavor, sugar content, and amount of sap you can collect. 

The most popular birch trees for collecting sap include:

• Yellow birch
• Alaska birch
• Paper birch
• Silver birch
• Black birch
• White birch
• River birch
• Gray birch
• European white birch

If you are not sure what kind of birch tree you have on your property, Do All Birch Trees Have White Bark? Identification Tips may give you some insight!

What To Look for Before Tapping

Obviously, you do not want to go drilling any birch tree and tapping your spile into the hole while hoping for the best. There are some factors to look out for when choosing the healthiest trees for the highest quality saps.

Look for healthy trees without a lot of dead and broken branches. Also, you want to choose a tree with a full canopy and the ability to soak up plenty of sunlight in the upper branches.

Sunlight is important to all photosynthesizing plants, but birch trees cannot grow in the shade. To learn more on this phenomenon check out 4 Reasons Why Birch Trees Can’t Grow In The Shade.

The bark around the tree needs to look clean and healthy as well. Be aware and avoid diseased or fungus-ridden trees, as these trees may be near the end of their life cycle.

You also want to tap trees that are at least 8” in diameter. You should err on the larger side as smaller trees produce bitter sap and less of it. Keep in mind a single birch tree will produce about a half to a gallon of sap per day, and the tapping season can last between 14 and 21 days. 

What To Avoid When Tapping A Birch Tree

When drilling your holes for the spile, once you are past the bark, if you get fresh, white drill shavings, you are good to go. However, if you drill and you are drilling out brown shavings, you have probably hit a dead spot.

Move to a different area and drill again or choose a different tree. You will not get any sap from a dead part of the tree, and if you did, you would not want to consume it. 

Avoid trees that have been treated with pesticides or areas on the ground that have been treated. You don’t want that stuff entering your body via birch sap. 

When Can You Tap Birch Trees?

If you are familiar with tapping maple trees, this is a simple question. When maple syrup season is over, it’s time to shift gears slightly and start tapping birch trees. 

The exact time frame for when you can tap birch trees will be different for varying climates. In your area, when the nights and days no longer dip into freezing temperatures, it’s time to tap birch trees. In many places, the time to tap and collect sap is in late March to early April, but it all depends on where you live.

You want to tap them while the leaf buds are still small nubs because once the leaves come out and turn green, the sap no longer has any sugar in it. You are looking for the break between winter and spring. 

How To Tap Birch Trees, And What Equipment Is Needed

Unless you have already been tapping maple trees, you will probably need a few specialized pieces of equipment. There are full kits for tapping trees like this Deluxe Maple Tree Tapping Kit. It comes with hooks, taps, buckets, filters, a drill bit, and even recipe cards!

Below is a list of everything you will need to tap your birch trees. 

1. Portable drill
2. Drill bits for taps/spiles. 7/16” or 5/16” size, depending on the diameter of spiles
3. Tree taps/spiles
4. Sap collection buckets that will hang on the taps
5. Hammer or rubber mallet
6. Filter paper or cloth
7. Rubbing alcohol to sterilize the taps or boil them first

Step-By-Step Instructions For Birch Tapping

Start by sterilizing your taps/spiles by soaking them in rubbing alcohol or boiling them for a few minutes. 

Next, you want to drill your holes. You only need one hole per tree. Using the correct size drill bit, drill at a slightly upward angle and only into the tree about 1-½” deep.

It is a good idea to use a drill stop. Either mark the depth of the drill bit with a permanent marker or wrap a bit of electrical tape around the drill bit to prevent yourself from going too deep into the tree. 

You should try to keep from drilling into the side exposed to full sun, as birch sap is perishable. With the sun beating down on it, it could spoil faster. Drill and tap the north or east side of the tree and clear out any shavings from your hole. 

Gently tap the spiles into the tree using your hammer. If your spiles are plastic, we recommend using a rubber mallet. They only need to be tight enough to hold your sap containers. 

The sap coming out should be clear as water and taste slightly sweet. If the sap comes out cloudy, discolored, or tastes bitter or sour, remove the tap, discard what you have collected, and move to another tree. 

Gather your sap every day. Birch sap is highly perishable and needs to be collected daily. Strain your sap with filters to remove twigs, leaves, or anything else that might have fallen into your bucket.

Keep it refrigerated for up to 7 days or freeze it for a longer life. You can also pasteurize it or add citric acid or sugar to lengthen the shelf life. 

I always say, the fresher the better. If you have it, use it. Don’t wait for the sap to reach the end of its shelf life.  

Sap collecting season usually lasts about 14 to 21 days. When leaves start to “fluff” out of the tree, you’ll get no more sugar from the sap. Remove your equipment, clean out the hole with water and start planning what you’re going to do with all that sap. 

For the coming seasons, if you continue to tap your birch trees, move to a different area to collect your sap. You want to move at least 4” away from your last hole, and spiral upward as you go.

It’s also good practice to let a tapped tree rest after three years of tapping. Give it some time to rest and heal. 

What Can You Do With Birch Sap?

With gallons of freshly tapped birch sap in hand, what can you do with it? Don’t worry, there are several uses, especially if you are handy and have the time. 

Drink it!

Birch sap all alone, filtered, and bottled up is a great, healthy drink early pioneers and indigenous peoples alike enjoyed in America’s younger years. It contains antioxidants, several amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and a load of other “good for you” stuff. Some people call birch sap or birch water an energizing early spring drink. 

FWS says birch sap was a well-known “traditional health elixir” consumed by Russians, Scandinavians, Asians, and wherever birch trees grow. Birch sap also has a history of being used in the treatment of hypertension, urinary disorders, arthritis, scurvy, and other ailments.  

(Obligatory disclaimer here. The above passage is for educational purposes only and should not be used to diagnose or treat any symptoms or ailments. If you have questions about your health and the potential benefits of birch sap, consult a professional such as your doctor.)

One note of caution here. Birch tree sap contains manganese. While it is an essential nutrient, too much manganese can cause toxicity.

Go ahead and drink the birch sap, but take it in moderation. Limit consumption to possibly one to two cups per day. 

If you have medical questions such as “Will this interfere with my medications?” consult your doctor to be safe. 

Make Birch Syrup

Making birch syrup is a tricky process because the sap contains fructose sugars as opposed to maple tree sap which contains sucrose. Fructose burns faster and will create a woody and molasses kind of taste if the cooking temperature is too high. 

The birch syrup manufacturers do not suggest putting this type of syrup on pancakes because it contains much less sugar than maple syrup. Some people report an almost savory, spicy taste. To each their own though, no one said the only topping for pancakes is maple syrup. 

My brothers and sister prefer peanut butter on their pancakes. While not my favorite, we all have our own preferences. 

You’ll need a lot more birch sap to make syrup. 

According to an article by the USDA, Tree to Table, it takes around 40 gallons of maple sap to make one gallon of syrup. It takes significantly more birch sap to make syrup. You will need anywhere from 100 to 200 gallons of birch sap to make a single gallon of birch syrup. 

The reason it takes so much birch sap to make such a small batch of syrup is the sugar content. Birch sap only contains about 1%-1.5% sugar compared to maple sap which has nearly 5% sugar.

What can you do with birch syrup if you are not supposed to pour it all over your pancakes you ask? You can use it in glazes, sauces, baking, and marinades for meats, especially lighter tasting meats sweetness complement well like chicken and pork.

Incredibly, there are a ton of recipes using birch syrup on the internet from glazed salmon to pecan squares, and even birch syrup cocktails. Sign me up!  

Crafting birch syrup from the sap is a difficult process because of its tendency to burn. The sap needs to be cooked down at a lower temperature than maple syrup does.

If you are interested in learning how to create your own birch syrup, contact the Alaska Birch Syrup Makers Association or the University of Alaska Cooperative Extension Service. They are the experts on birch syrup. 

Birch Beer Is A Great Use For Birch Sap

Birch beer is already a popular drink in Canada and is gaining popularity in northern states such as Vermont. This type of beer is the non-alcoholic kind, more closely related to ginger beer, or root beer. 

Birch beer is similar in taste to root beer because of the earthy, spicy flavors, but different because of a rich creaminess combined with an aftertaste of mint. 

Craft Birch Mead Or Wine

If the thought of birch beer has you craving the earthy, spicy, slightly sweet taste of something with a little more kick to it, then get to crafting some birch mead, or wine. You can easily ferment the sap into mead or wine just like you would using grapes or other fruits. 

What Does Birch Sap Taste Like?

I have not tasted birch sap or any other product from the sap, although I have to say I am very intrigued. The reports of taste vary as much as the trees themselves. Some people describe the taste as woody, slightly sweet, and refreshing, while others lean toward the taste of coconut water. 

The different varieties of trees could have their own characteristics of flavors, as well as soil conditions and when the birch tree was tapped or harvested. The first batch from the tap typically contains the most sugar, so it would be sweeter than later collections of the sap. 

The general consensus on the taste of birch sap is it is light tasting and slightly sweet with some hints of fruitiness and/or earthiness. Once you tap your birch trees, we would love to hear from you and your experience. Come on back and leave us a comment if you tried it. 

This Tree Is Tapped

That does it for this episode of Different Birch Trees That Can be Tapped and How to Tap Them. If you have birch trees on your property, collect some of the sap. It does not matter what kind of birch tree it is, as long as it is the correct time, the tree is healthy, and you have the equipment.

You can easily collect a good amount of sap each year. 

Birch sap has many uses and can be consumed on its own with little processing. Studies show many groups of people have enjoyed birch sap throughout history. If you are savvy and have the right equipment, you can make syrup, birch beer, or even ferment it into mead and wine. 

References:

Staniszewski P, Bilek M, Szwerc W, et al. The effect of tree age, daily sap volume and date of sap collection on the content of minerals and heavy metals in silver birch (Betula pendula Roth) tree sap. PLoS One. 2020;15(12):e0244435. Published 2020 Dec 29. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0244435

Ana I. Sancho, Tina Birk, Juliane M. Gregersen, Tage Rønne, Sofie E. Hornslet, Anne M. Madsen, Katrine L. Bøgh, Microbial safety and protein composition of birch sap, Journal of Food Composition and Analysis, 10.1016/j.jfca.2021.104347, 107, (104347), (2022).

Jeong, S.-J., Lee, C.-H., Kim, H.-Y., Lee, S.-H., Hwang, I.-G., Shin, C.-S., … Jeong, H.-S. (2012, January 31). Quality Characteristics of the White Birch Sap with Varying Collection Periods. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition. The Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition. https://doi.org/10.3746/jkfn.2012.41.1.143

If you have a cedar tree as a part of your yard, it’s likely to serve as a staple in your landscaping for decades to come. With all that potential curb appeal just sitting under your tree waiting to be discovered, we’ve got some recommendations on what you can plant under cedar trees to help make the area underneath come across as more than just an empty, unused space.

For a plant to be compatible with your cedar tree, it cannot take nutrients from your tree and has to be shade tolerant. So, what can you plant under a cedar tree?

• Wintergreen
• Bugleweed
• Periwinkle
• Hosta 
• Bergenia
• Columbine
• Ice Plant
• Chinese Lantern Plants
• Oakleaf Hydrangea
• Lungwort
• Foam flower
• Partridge berry 

So, sit back, relax, and let’s take a deeper dive into what to consider before you plant and how to pick the best plants from this list that will give your yard a pop of color while making your cedar more attractive. 

Can You Actually Grow Plants Under A Cedar Tree?

Since we’re writing this article, we hope you know the answer to this question is a resounding yes. You can plant a variety of flowers, shrubs, and other ground covers underneath a cedar tree and have them thrive!

Now don’t get us wrong, there are a handful of environmental factors out of our control. These can also affect what type of vegetation you can grow under your cedar, and in your yard in general. 

We already mentioned the shade these trees provide, but the soil composition and root systems, as well as the average rainfall in your area, are all also important aspects to take into consideration before planting under your cedar, or really anywhere in your yard. 

The U.S. Forest Service Pacific Northwest Research Station has conducted several studies on the importance of maintaining your cedar tree’s health through thinning and fertilization in its younger years. So, you want to make sure the plants you’re adding to the nearby soil don’t take away any of the key nutrients your cedar needs.

The different varieties of cedar trees should also be taken into consideration. However, lucky for you, our 12 recommended plants cover a wide variety of vegetation that will be able to thrive under these trees, all while your cedar maintains the nutrients it needs to stay healthy.

Maybe you are looking for advice on other varieties of trees. If so, check out our guides on what to plant under a pine, oak, and maple tree, just for a start!

5 Best Perennial Flowering Plants To Plant Under A Cedar Tree

Considering I myself have trouble keeping the difference between annuals and perennials straight, let this note serve as your friendly reminder. A perennial is a plant that will live for more than one growing season. 

Since these plants go dormant during the winter months, this means there’s less work for you because you won’t have to replant them when the next growing season comes around!

Here are some of the best flowering plants to grow under your cedar tree:

• Hosta
• Bergenia
• Columbine
• Chinese Lantern Plants
• Lungwort

Some of these plants may be unfamiliar names for you, and that’s okay. The goal is to pick the best plants for our yard, so we’ve also created a reference or cheat sheet on each of these plants and their various requirements so you can ensure you’re picking the right plant for your tree and have it grow successfully. 

1. Hosta

I have a handful of these plants on the side of my house, and I love them! They thrive with minimal sunlight, and they require nearly no maintenance. These low-key requirements mean Hosta plants would make a wonderful addition under your cedar tree.

Shade level: Partial shade to full shade

Water level: Well drained

Flower color: White 

2. Bergenia

These flowers are straight out of a fairy garden. With their thicker stems and large stems propping the flowers up when they’re in bloom, this plant makes a statement all on its own.

Shade level: Partial shade to full shade

Water level: Moist

Flower color: Pink, red, white

3. Columbine

Like the Bergenia, the Columbine plant has tall stalks that hold up their flowering blooms above the rest of the plant. These flowers are also bell-shaped which, other than just being nice to look at, helps to attract some additional winged creatures to your yard and can help with the pollination of your plants!

Shade level: Partial shade

Water level: Moist but well drained

Flower color: Red, orange, yellow, blue, purple

4. Chinese Lantern Plants

While these plants have flowers, the real draw to this plant is their seed pods, or -you guessed it- their lanterns. 

The lantern pod itself is a cover for the fruit this plant bears, but be aware that the fruit inside is toxic to people, so we would recommend that this plant be planted in a container instead of the ground itself in case it ever needs to be removed from your landscaping plan.

Shade level: Partial Shade

Water level: Moist but well drained

Flower color: White

5. Lungwort

Lungwort flowers are usually bell or funnel-shaped, making them another eye-appealing piece to add to your landscaping. While the flowers themselves can add a nice pop of color while in bloom, the speckled leaves of this plant are a fun addition that helps outlast the blooms for some added color throughout the warmer seasons.

Shade level: Partial shade to full shade

Water level: Moist but well drained

Flower color: Blue, pink, white

2 Best Shrubs To Plant Under A Cedar Tree

Now when we say shrubs, I know our minds go picturing huge shrubs, bushes, hedges, and everything of the like that you would never imagine could grow successfully under a cedar. 

Rest assured, we’ve got a couple of less drastic shrub options that will work just as well under your cedar and not require much maintenance.

1. Wintergreen

These plants will sport red berries that are edible but are also so much more. Other than adding to your landscape, you can use the leaves themselves in tea. Also, when the holidays come around, propagating your wintergreen plant can make a splendid gift! 

Shade level: Partial shade

Water level: Well drained

Flower color: Small white flowers followed by red berries

2. Oakleaf Hydrangea

There are a variety of hydrangea shrubs to choose from, but the Oakleaf is one of my favorites because of its leaf shape, which resembles the leaves of an oak tree. Depending on the size of your cedar, this particular plant can bloom up to 6 feet tall, so do your best to plan accordingly. 

Like all other hydrangeas, these plants have higher toxicity to humans and our pets, so we recommend carefully creating your landscaping plans before you dig holes for your plants. 

Shade level: Partial shade

Water level: Moist but well drained

Flower color: White

5 Best Ground Covers To Plant Under A Cedar Tree

I love a good ground covering plant. Their maintenance is low, and they thrive in a variety of different environments, which makes them a great option for covering up the open area under your cedar and adding that piece of color to keep it interesting.

There are a lot of options within this group, but here are our top five picks:

• Bugleweed
• Periwinkle
• Ice plant
• Foam flower
• Partridge berry

Now, let’s check out the specifics for each plant so we know what could work best for our yard. 

1. Bugleweed

Don’t let the word “weed” in its name fool you- this plant looks nothing like a weed and is great at choking out any weeds that might be in the area. This plant can reach up to ten inches tall, so it’s a nice height option to use while blending and filling in the area with other plants.

Shade level: Partial shade

Water level: Well drained

Flower color: Blue, violet

2. Periwinkle

This is a plant we probably all know, but more as a flower as opposed to its ground-covering capabilities. While Periwinkle doesn’t grow more than six inches tall, it has trailing vines that can grow to a foot and a half in length once it’s fully mature.

Shade level: Partial shade to full shade

Water level: Dry

Flower color: Blue, purple, white

3. Ice Plant

Despite the chilly theme in its name, this plant prefers warmer weather. The Ice Plant gets its name from its tiny hairs that can reflect light and appear as ice crystals. This plant also has a unique, succulent style look to it, which is yet another reason it makes our list.

Shade level: Partial shade

Water level: Dry, well-drained

Flower color: Pink, red, purple, orange, yellow

4. Foam Flower

In addition to its long bloom period, this wildflower has some spectacular red-colored variations on its leaves. This plant loves the shade, which makes it a great option for being planted under your cedar. However, be careful to plan your use of this plant as it can grow up to three feet tall.

Shade level: Partial shade

Water level: Well drained

Flower color: White with pink

5. Partridge Berry

This plant is a treat for the eyes in the bitter days of winter because the partridge berry plant keeps its dark green leaves and red berries during the colder months. 

Similar to the Wintergreen plant, if you propagate this plant successfully, they can make a wonderful gift during the holiday or serve as a tasteful addition to your floral decorations during the Christmas season.

Shade level: Partial shade to full shade

Water level: Dry

Flower color: White

Some More Variables To Consider

We know we covered a lot of information, and you now have more plant options to choose from than could fit under even the largest of cedar trees. 

To that point, though, we wanted to highlight the differences between some requirements for these plants to make sure that you have the best planning guide for brightening up the area underneath your cedar tree.

For more tips on how to take care of your cedar tree, check out our guide to pruning your cedar without harming it.

Shade Preference

We’ve talked about the amount of shade that a cedar tree can provide, and the amount of shade trees provided grows right along with the tree itself. 

The closer you are to the base of the tree, the more shade you’ll be under. On the other hand, the closer you get to the edge of the tree, you’ll see the ground will get various peeks of sunshine throughout the day. 

For the plants on our list that prefer full shade, we would recommend that these plants be planted closer to the trunk of your tree.

For the plants that may thrive in partial shade, we recommend planting these closer to the outskirts of the canopy of the cedar so that the plants can get both sunlight and shade. 

Soil Type

This factor isn’t something that we can always control. Some areas have more clay or sand in their soil than other areas, and this is a factor to keep in mind, even if you can’t necessarily treat or rectify it.  

The thing to keep in mind about the type of soil you have is that it can ultimately affect the moisture level of the ground, and as a result, the amount of water that’s available for your plants.

Watering your plants and trees is important, but you should stick to a schedule! Read our article on exactly how much to water your plants to keep your garden healthy and thriving.

If too many plants are in a concentrated area, like under your cedar tree, these added plants might take nutrients and water away from your cedar tree. 

On the other side, if you notice the ground is always wet under your tree, adding more plants underneath should help absorb this excess moisture, and, as a result, your cedar tree and the newly added plants should equally thrive.

Do some digging–literally–to see what type of soil you have and how it retains water, and learn how to check your soil pH with our help tosee what could help your under-tree area come alive. 

You could also try a Luster Leaf Soil Test Kit to test your soil and gain additional information like pH and nitrogen levels.

Putting It All Together

At this point, we know that you’re ready to rock and roll and get to shopping and, ultimately, planting. 

Don’t forget to keep in mind the needs of each plant you’re adding to your yard, as well as underneath your cedar, to know how they’ll work together.

By carefully choosing and planting some suggestions from our list, and maybe even checking out The Well-Tended Perennial Garden book, you will keep the ground under your cedar looking like a glamor shot from a garden catalog!

References

Heathman, G. C., Cosh, M. H., Merwade, V., & Han, E. (2012). Multi-scale temporal stability analysis of surface and subsurface soil moisture within the Upper Cedar Creek Watershed, Indiana. Catena, 95, 91-103.

Sauer, T. J., Cambardella, C. A., & Meek, D. W. (2006). Spatial variation of soil properties relating to vegetation changes. Plant and soil, 280(1), 1-5.

Tan, F. C., & Swain, S. M. (2006). Genetics of flower initiation and development in annual and perennial plants. Physiologia Plantarum, 128(1), 8-17.

Although beautiful from afar, a Tree of Heaven can be problematic. In North America, the Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus Altissima) is considered to be an invasive species, due to its ability to shade out native trees. The female Tree of Heaven can produce as many as 300,000 seeds per year, all of which are dispersed by wind alone. With the Tree of Heaven’s quick growth rate, it consistently outcompetes native plants for sunlight, and when it wins, it forms dense colonies that cover the plants below it, causing them to deteriorate.

Since the Tree of Heaven is considered undesirable, it’s important to identify it from other trees. Similar-looking trees such as species of ash trees, hickory trees, and walnut trees, can be distinguished from the Tree of Heaven by the differences in leaflet shape, the fruits of the trees, or by seeds they produce. 

Below, we will go over the look-alike species that you may find, how to identify them, and how to get rid of the Tree of Heaven if you spot one on your property. So, keep on reading to find out more!

Where Does The Tree Of Heaven Grow?

The Tree of Heaven was introduced from China to North America in the late 1700s. First seen in Pennsylvania, the Tree of Heaven is considered ornamental as it’s aesthetically pleasing, although very ugly to nearby vegetation. The Tree of Heaven has since spread across the United States and can be found in hardiness zones 5 through 8, and parts of Eastern Canada.

The Tree of Heaven can be found in abundance around the Mediterranean area of Europe but has been limited in spreading to northern parts of Europe because of cold weather. The Tree of Heaven can also be found in the north and southern parts of Africa, southern South America, and Australia, although it is not widespread in any of those areas just yet. Further, in its native range, the Tree of Heaven grows in Northeast China, Central China, and Taiwan. 

Apart from just it’s location on the globe, the Tree of Heaven does not grow well in shade, and it usually grows after a site disturbance. After an environmental disturbance, like a forest fire or windstorm, sunlight is more able to reach a forest floor, and once the sunlight gets to any seeds of a Tree of Heaven – these trees will quickly outgrow anything else.

Why Is The Tree Of Heaven A Problem?

As beautiful as it is, the Tree of Heaven creates a lot of problems for surrounding vegetation around it!

The Tree Of Heaven Produces Invasive Root Suckers That Take Over Surrounding Vegetation

According to Pennsylvania State University, not only can the Tree of Heaven produce 300,000 wind dispersed seeds per year, it can also spread by root suckers. Root suckers are growths that arise from the roots, up to 50 feet from the parent Tree of Heaven, and those little root suckers will turn into full grown clones of the parent tree. Tree of Heaven root suckers can start producing seeds in as little as 2 years, and a lot of problems quickly come from it.

The Tree of Heaven is a problem because the abundance of seeds and root suckers it produces allows it to completely take over a site. Since the Tree of Heaven can grow 10 to 15 feet per year, they quickly outcompete the native vegetation in the area. The Tree of Heaven produces an allelochemical called Ailanthone, into the surrounding soil which prevents other plants from growing.

The Tree of Heaven isn’t the only invasive tree in the U.S. Read our article about invasive poplar trees and what to do if you have one in your yard.

The Tree Of Heaven Has An Unpleasant Odor

Another problem that arises with the Tree of Heaven is that it produces an unpleasant odor – from its flowers, and also from any part of the tree that is damaged.

Since the Tree of Heaven has little wildlife value, with most grazers finding it unpalatable, it causes major ecosystem disruptions by displacing not only other plants, but the wildlife that’s in the area that it takes over. 

Why Is It Called The Tree Of Heaven?

You may be wondering: why does an invasive tree that smells bad be referred to as the Tree of Heaven? Well, when the common name Tree of Heaven was given to the tree, it was due to its rapid growth rate towards the sky or Heaven.

Even the scientific name for the Tree of Heaven refers to its rapid growth rate. The genus name, Ailanthus, means ‘sky-tree’, and the specific epithet, Altissima, means ‘tallest’. 

However, it is also believed that the name Tree of Heaven was created as a marketing strategy to get homeowners to plant the Tree of Heaven.

For more info on where the title “tree” comes from – check out our article Why Trees Are Called Trees, it’s so interesting!

Trees That Look Like The Tree Of Heaven

There are many native and non-native trees in North America that resemble the Tree of Heaven.

Below we will discuss the features of each species or genus which looks like the Tree of Heaven and how they can be distinguished from one another. We will focus on the easiest characteristics that can be used to identify these similar looking trees from the Tree of Heaven.

1. Walnut Trees (Juglans spp.) Vs. Tree Of Heaven

The walnut tree looks like the Tree of Heaven, but there are a few differences between the two!

Both Trees Have Compound Leafs

Walnut trees are often confused with Tree of Heaven due to them both having pinnately compound leaves. A pinnately compound leaf is made up of a central elongated petiole called the rachis which has a row of leaflets on either side. Pinnately compound leaves may or may not have a leaflet at the tip. 

Walnut tree leaves differ from a Tree of Heaven by having serrated or toothed margins along the edges of each leaflet. The leaflets on the tree of heaven leaves have smooth margins except for one rounded tooth, called a glandular tooth, at the base of each leaflet. 

They Produce Different Fruits

Another major difference between walnut trees and Tree of Heaven is the type of fruit or seeds they produce. Walnut trees produce a nut that is covered by a shell and a husk (picture a walnut that is in the genus Juglans). Tree of heaven produces samara, which is a dry indehiscent seed with an elongated papery wing allowing it to be dispersed by wind. 

Two of the main walnut trees which are confused with the Tree of Heaven are the black walnut tree (Juglans Nigra) and the butternut tree (Juglans cinerea). The chart below lists walnut species in North America that can look like the Tree of Heaven.

Common Name	Scientific Name	Range in North America
Japanese walnut	Juglans ailantifolia	Northeast
Black walnut	Juglans nigra	East, South, Midwest
Butternut	Juglans cinerea	East
Northern California walnut	Juglans hindsii	California
Southern California walnut	Juglans californica S.	California
Arizona walnut	Juglans major	Southwest
Little walnut	Juglans microcarpa	TX, OK, NM, KS
English walnut	Juglans regia	West, Northeast

Want to learn more about walnut trees? Check out our article on the 5 best places to plant your walnut tree!

2. Ash Trees (Fraxinus Spp.) Vs. Tree Of Heaven

Ash trees can also be confused with the Tree of Heaven due to both having pinnately compound leaves.

Ash leaves can be distinguished from the Tree of Heaven by the growth of the leaves on the branch. Ash tree leaves grow in an opposite pattern with one leaf directly across from the other on a branch. A Tree of Heaven’s leaves has an alternate pattern with leaves that never grow directly across from one another on a branch. 

There are many ash trees which can be confused with the Tree of Heaven due to the pinnately compound leaves including Green Ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica) and White Ash (Fraxinus americana). Below is a list of ash trees found in North America which can look like the Tree of Heaven !

For more info on ash trees head over to our article on 5 Reasons Why Ash Trees Make Wonderful Shade Trees.

Common Name	Scientific Name	Range in North America
Texas ash	Fraxinus albicans	TX, OK
White ash	Fraxinus americana	East
Singleleaf ash	Fraxinus anomala	Southwest
Mexican ash	Fraxinus berlandieriana	TX, LA, MS
Carolina ash	Fraxinus caroliniana	SE
Fragrant ash	Fraxinus cuspidata	TX, NM, AZ, NV
California ash	Fraxinus dipetala	West
European ash	Fraxinus excelsior	Northeast
Goodding’s ash	Fraxinus gooddingii	AZ
Gregg’s ash	Fraxinus greggii	TX, NM, AZ
Oregon ash	Fraxinus oregona	West coast
Black ash	Fraxinus nigra	Northeast
Chihuahuan ash	Fraxinus papillosa	TX, NM, AZ
Green ash	Fraxinus pennsylvanica	East, South, Midwest
Pumpkin ash	Fraxinus profunda	East
Blue ash	Fraxinus quadrangulata	East
Shamel ash	Fraxinus uhdei	CA
Velvet ash	Fraxinus velutina	Southwest

3. Hickory trees (Carya Spp.) Vs. Tree Of Heaven

While hickory trees also have pinnately compound leaves like the Tree of Heaven, they typically have fewer than 11 leaflets per leaf which are fewer than the Tree of Heaven’s. The leaflets also have serrated margins while the Tree of Heaven’s leaflet is smooth with only a single tooth on each side of the base. 

A hickory tree’s fruits are also much different from that of the Tree of Heaven. The fruits of hickory are nuts which are encased in a hard shell and husk (think pecans which are also in the genus Carya).

Below is a list of other hickory trees found in North America that can look like tree of heaven. 

Common Name	Scientific Name	Range in North America
Water hickory	Carya aquatica	Southeast
Butternut hickory	Carya cordiformis	East, South
Scrub hickory	Carya floridana	Fl
Pignut hickory	Carya glabra	East, South
Pecan	Carya illinoinensis	East, South
Shellbark hickory	Carya laciniosa	East, South
Nutmeg hickory	Carya myristiciformis	South
Red hickory	Carya ovalis	East
Shagbark hickory	Carya ovata	East, South, Midwest
Sand hickory	Carya pallida	Southeast
Black hickory	Carya texana	Southeast, South
Mockernut hickory	Carya tomentosa	East, South

4. Sumac Shrubs (Rhus Spp.) Vs. Tree Of Heaven

Sumac shrubs are usually only confused with the Tree of Heaven when the Tree of Heaven is young, as it can be confused with other shrubs – however, there are some great ways to identify and tell them apart!

You Can Identify Them By Their Leaves

Both sumac and the Tree of Heaven have pinnately compound leaves. However, some sumacs such as Staghorn Sumac (Rhus Typhina) have serrated margins on the leaflets which distinguish it from the Tree of Heaven. The leaf petioles and stems of Staghorn Sumac are also covered with fine hairs which the Tree of Heaven does not have. 

Winged Sumac (Rhus Copallinum) leaflets are also smooth like the Tree of Heaven, but they have growths on the leaf rachis resembling wings which can help you distinguish winged sumac from the Tree of Heaven.

You Can Identify Them By Their Fruits

Sumacs can also be differentiated from the Tree of Heaven by their fruits. Sumacs produce drupes which are fleshy fruits with a hard seed in the center. Sumac drupes form large, tightly packed clusters which resemble a cone and are typically red in color when ripe. 

The drupes of sumac are easily differentiated from the papery samaras of the Tree of Heaven.

5. Kentucky Coffee Tree (Gymnocladus Dioicus) Vs. Tree Of Heaven

The bark of the Kentucky Coffee Tree is rough and scaly and will easily distinguish it from the much smoother cantaloupe-like bark of the Tree of Heaven, especially in mature trees. 

The fruit of the Kentucky Coffee Tree forms in pods, with 3 to 5 seeds per pod. These are easily differentiated from the samaras produced by the Tree of Heaven. 

6. Yellowwood (Cladrastis Lutea) Vs. Tree Of Heaven

Mature Yellowwood can be distinguished from the Tree of Heaven simply by the smooth bark it has versus the Tree of Heaven’s bark which has more of a cantaloupe texture to it. 

Yellowwood leaves are pinnately compound but typically have no more than 5 to 9 leaflets while the Tree of Heaven’s leaves rarely have fewer than 11 leaflets. 

The fruit of the yellowwood is also a key characteristic since it produces long brown pods in clusters with 6 seeds per pod similar to the Kentucky coffee tree, which are much different than the samaras of tree of heaven. 

7. Amur Cork Tree (Phellodendron Amurense) Vs. Tree Of Heaven

Amur cork trees are another non-native species in North America that resemble the Tree of Heaven. While it has pinnately compound leaves, the leaves are opposite to one another on the stem like ash trees. 

Amur Cork Trees also have corky bark which is easily distinguished from the much smoother cantaloupe-like pattern on the bark of the Tree of Heaven. 

Amur Cork Trees can also be distinguished from the Tree of Heaven by their fruits which are berries while the Tree of Heaven has samaras. 

The Tree Of Heaven Has An Unpleasant Odor That Can Help Identify It

There are many identifying characteristics of the Tree of Heaven which can be used to distinguish it from other plants. One characteristic that is present year round is from the odor which has been commonly described as rotten peanuts or dirty gym socks. The flowers will emit this odor in late May through July when they are present, but it is also produced when you crush the stems or any part of the tree. 

Since the sap can cause an allergic reaction in rare cases, you should not crush the stems or any part of the plant to smell them. Use the other diagnostic characters provided above to identify tree of heaven.

How To Get Rid Of The Tree Of Heaven

There are many strategies that can be used to get rid of the Tree of Heaven if you find it on your property. All of the strategies require that you monitor the area for several years after treatment in order to ensure that no further growth occurs from root suckers or seeds which remain in the soil. You will also likely need to use multiple methods together to get full control if you already have an established tree. 

Remember – any time you are removing a tree or using chemicals to control a pest, there can be significant risks involved. That’s why we recommend you use a professional to avoid creating an unsafe situation. Find a local ISA-certified arborist to ensure the job is done right. 

Mechanical Control

Mechanical control is a way you can get rid of the Tree of Heaven. Mechanical control is the use of barriers such as fences and the removal of a pest by mechanical means such as mowing. 

Mowing is a great mechanical control method for root suckers – which will pop up from the roots of an adult tree, even after the tree is removed.

If you continue to cut back newly emerging root suckers from the roots without allowing them to get too big, you can deplete the carbohydrate reserves in the roots and ultimately eliminate the Tree of Heaven completely. 

Chemical Control

Chemical control is the use of pesticides to control a pest. Chemical control is perhaps the most effective way to control mature Trees of Heaven. However, combining chemical control with the mechanical control of mowing is the most effective way to control the newly emerging Tree of Heaven on your property.

Remember, since the Tree of Heaven can grow new trees from its roots, if you cut down the tree, you will likely find more trees continuing to try and sprout up from the stump and remaining roots. You can eliminate these root suckers and stump sprouts using chemical control. 

If you have a large Tree of Heaven, it is best to have a professional cut the tree down for for safety purposes. Once the main trees are removed, spray the stumps and any new trees that emerge with glyphosate or triclopyr. Here are two of our favorite products to do so.

We like Round Up Pro Concentrate since it contains the higher concentration of glyphosate recommended by the Forest Service or this ITS Supply Triclopyr 4 which is a generic brand and more cost effective. 

Cultural Control

Cultural control refers to actions you can take to make the environment less suitable for the pest you are trying to control. The most effective way to culturally control the Tree of Heaven is to know how to identify it and remove it, by pulling it up as soon as you see it begin to grow. 

Make sure to wear protective gloves when pulling up the Tree of Heaven since the plant can cause allergic reactions in some people. We like these Cool Job Gardening Gloves for women, since they come in smaller sizes and have a rubber coating to prevent any contact with tree of heaven sap. These men’s Cool Job Gardening Gloves also have the rubber coating and are available in larger sizes.

You should also make sure that if you have been in an area where the Tree of Heaven is growing, you don’t take any seeds back to your property with you, since the seeds can spread by getting stuck to your car tires to the hair on your pets!

Biological Control

Biological control is the use of an introduced natural enemy or predator to eliminate an unwanted pest. While there currently isn’t an approved biological control agent for the Tree of Heaven in North America, there is ongoing research that is focused on certain insects which may be able to reduce the spread of these trees.

According to the USDA, researchers are hopeful to have a biological control method available for the Tree of Heaven in the near future. 

That’s A Wrap!

The Tree of Heaven has become an invasive tree species on every continent, except Antarctica, since its movement out of its native range in China and Taiwan. It can easily outcompete native plants and has little wildlife value allowing it to cause significant damage to ecosystems. 

There are many trees that look like the Tree of Heaven at various stages of growth. Often the leaves are most easily confused, but with the use of this guide, you should be able to easily distinguish other trees from the Tree of Heaven by using the leaves, bark, stems, and fruits. 

There are many different ways to get rid of the Tree of Heaven if you find it on your property. The most effective management strategies tend to use several of these methods together to get complete control of the Tree of Heaven. 

Remember, the earlier you identify and remove the Tree of Heaven from your property, the easier it is to remove it.

References

Ding, J., Wu, Y., Zheng, H., Fu, W., Reardon, R. and Liu, M., 2006. Assessing potential biological control of the invasive plant, tree-of-heaven, Ailanthus altissima. Biocontrol science and technology, 16(6), pp.547-566.

Enescu, C.M., Houston Durrant, T. and Caudullo, G., 2016. Ailanthus altissima in Europe: distribution, habitat, usage and threats. European Atlas of Forest Tree Species. Publications Office of the European Union, Luxembourg, pp. e01ca33.

Heisey, R.M., 1990. Evidence for allelopathy by tree-of-heaven (Ailanthus altissima). Journal of Chemical Ecology, 16(6), pp.2039-2055.

Sladonja, B., Sušek, M. and Guillermic, J., 2015. Review on invasive tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima (Mill.) Swingle) conflicting values: assessment of its ecosystem services and potential biological threat. Environmental management, 56(4), pp.1009-1034.