Elm trees are a popular and common tree across North America and are favored for their ability to withstand harsh weather. If you are looking to plant some extra flora underneath your elm, you might think that any old plant would do – however, this isn’t quite the case!
Growing plants underneath your elm tree takes consideration. It’s important to know which plants will share nutrients and water with the elm tree so that all the plants will flourish. Plants like Daffodils, Japanese Ferns, and August Lilies are among those that do well underneath an elm tree.
The main thing to consider when planting plants underneath an elm tree is that you found a plant that is a low-requirement species and does not require a lot to thrive. You also don’t want any plants that are going to spread out all over the place and get in the way of your root system, or in the way of other plants.
If you’re looking to learn more about the best plants underneath your elm tree, stick around for a while – and keep on reading!
Can You Even Grow Plants Underneath an Elm Tree?
So, after reading that intro section, you may have some questions…some concerns, even. Can you even grow plants underneath an elm tree, if there are so many requirements? The answer: Of course, you can!
You may need to be a bit more conscientious when choosing which plants to share soil with your beloved elm, but you can effectively add some pops of color to the ground if you choose the right plant! Growing any sort of plant is going to take some work, regardless of how ‘easy’ it may be to maintain. You always need to consider what your plant needs – from the amounts of water and sunlight to the type of nutrients and soil.
Elm trees are popular for a reason, as they’re very easy to grow. However, they do take a bit of thought when it comes to maintaining the space that they grow in.
So, Why Grow an Elm Tree?
On that note, let’s talk about why you might want an elm tree. After all, there are so many trees out there – so why an elm?
Elm trees might need a little consideration when it comes to sharing soil, but these trees truly are hard to beat. You can be sure that they will grow easily, and without too much extra work on your part.
Elm Trees Are Cold Hardy And Grow In All Temperatures
The 20th century saw American Elms dominating the streets of both suburban and city landscapes thanks to their knack for providing shade and dealing with poor soil.
Elm Trees are a species that is incredibly cold hardy, which means that they can continue to thrive even in unprecedented, extremely low temperatures. Whereas many trees might not withstand such extremes, you have a better chance at success with your elm tree.
Elms Are Tolerable To External Conditions Like Sidewalks
Elms are also very tolerant to external conditions, which makes them great street trees. While you’ll want to be aware of sidewalks that might be impacted by the elm tree roots, this is a species that will do well to provide shade on a busy street.
Or, perhaps you’ll choose to plant an elm tree in front of your home so that you can end up with that grandiose, towering look – as the tree matures.
Check out our article on the 11 best low-maintenance shade trees for a more detailed list of what you could plant to add interest to your yard.
Elm Trees Are Long-Lasting And Durable
Speaking of maturity, elm trees are long-lasting and can grow to be around 300 years old. If that doesn’t give you an idea of their tolerance and durability, I’m not sure that anything else will!
These trees are not only durable themselves, but can help provide protection against the elements when needed. Favored by land developers and landscapers both for their ability to withstand harsh, urban conditions, these trees can also act as a windbreakers to protect homes and more open areas outside of the city.
When it comes down to it, elms are great trees and deserve to be cared for as such, and deserve some wonderful plants nearby! So, without further ado – here are the 6 best plants to grow under your elm!
6 Best Plants To Plant Under Your Elm Tree
As you might imagine, plants that do better in shade are going to do better underneath the dense canopy of an elm tree. Plants will also do better under an elm if they have similar needs to an elm.
So, let’s get to it!
1. Daffodils Will Grow Great Under Your Elm Tree
Daffodils are great for under your elm tree all thanks to their shallow roots and adaptable nature.
We know that shallow roots are ideal when paired with the extensive root system of the elm, and it doesn’t hurt that daffodils are also a fairly flexible plant.
Daffodils self-seed, so they’ll spread on their own and can make their way to the area of the ground that best suits them overall – making them low maintenance and attainable.
Some Quick Things To Consider When Planting Daffodils
Light: Daffodils do like the sun, but will be able to grow in partial shade, which is possible if they are planted near the outer edges of the elm tree’s canopy.
Soil: Daffodils do well in rich, moist soil and appreciate some extra water, especially as they are growing.
Hardiness Zone: Daffodils grow in hardiness zones 3-8, which is very fitting when we consider that elms prefer zones 3-9.
Overall, a Daffodil has many of the same needs as an elm tree, which makes it a great fit to share soil and an overall environment.
2. Virginia Bluebells Will Grow Wonderfully Under Your Elm Tree
Next up on our list, we have the Virginia Bluebell because of its affinity for growing in the shade, as well as its ability to adapt to the amount of water available, whether high or low.
Virginia Bluebells align with the needs of an elm tree because elms do tend to require more water than these flowers, so flexibility is a factor that helps these two plants coexist.
Some Quick Things To Consider When Planting Virginia Bluebells
Light: Virginia bluebells grow quite well in partial to full shade, meaning that the extensive and dense canopy of an elm tree is not a hindrance, but is actually beneficial to this flower.
Soil: Just like elms, well-drained, rich, and loamy soil is best.
Hardiness Zone: Like daffodils, Virginia bluebells are also best suited for hardiness zones 3-8. This places Virginia bluebells right in the range of hardiness that an elm requires..
3. Periwinkles Will Flourish Underneath Your Elm Tree
Periwinkle is next on our list, and is another flower that is not only compatible with elm trees, but is also a pretty addition to your yard.
Periwinkles are easy to grow and manage. Periwinkles are ideal flowers to add a pop of color under your elm, without the extra work.
Some Quick Things To Consider When Planting Periwinkles
Light: Periwinkle also prefers full shade, making it well-suited to grow underneath the canopy of an elm.
Soil: Yet again, moist, well-drained soil is ideal for periwinkle to grow and thrive.
Hardiness Zone: Periwinkles don’t have the largest hardiness zone that they fit in, as they prefer zones 7-9. However, this still fits in the range that elms grow in, so there is a chance that if you live in an area with an extreme low temperature that is a bit higher, you can plant periwinkle with confidence.
4. August Lilies Will Look Great Underneath Your Elm
August lilies are next, thanks to their flexibility, quick growth, and fragrance.
They might not add a crazy pop of color, but if you like the smell of flowers, this is the one for you!
Some Quick Things To Consider When Planting August Lilies
Light: While these flowers do well in the sun, they also grow quite well in partial to full shade, an expression of their versatility.
Soil: As long as soil is rich, and well drained, august lily is going to do well underneath your elm.
Hardiness Zone: August lilies fit best within hardiness zones 3-9, which means that they have the exact same preference as elm trees do, making them a fitting combo for your yard!
5. Lilyturf Grows Perfectly Under Your Elm
Lilyturf is often used as ground cover and has some requirements that align quite well with those of elm trees.
If you want to cover some patchy grass, or simply hope to add some vibrance to your space, this is a solid option that you won’t regret.
Some Quick Things To Consider When Planting Lilyturf
Light: Lilyturf thrives in the shade, yet another option to go right under your elm with no concern for the lack of light.
Soil: Moist soil is also the ideal for this flower, so your elm and lily turf will not need different levels of water.
Hardiness Zone: The Lilyturf prefers hardiness zones 5-10, which means that it has a good deal of overlap with the zones 3-9 preferred by elm trees.
6. Japanese Ferns Will Grow Nicely Underneath Your Elm Tree
Finally, we have the Japanese fern, which is a slow-grower but can create a dense covering over the ground in a few years’ time.
Japanese Ferns are an invasive species, so they will require a lot of maintenance, however, they will also grow thick and dense, creating a neat visual effect underneath your tree.
Some Quick Things To Consider When Planting Japanese Ferns
Light: This type of fern can tolerate full sun or full shade, and its adaptability makes it a prime candidate for underneath your elm.
Soil: Once again, moist, well-drained soil is perfect for this plant.
Hardiness Zone: The Japanese Fern is best suited to hardiness zones 5-8. While this gives a little less room for planting in certain environments that might get colder extreme low temperatures in winter, it still fits in a wide enough range that make it a fitting plant for under your elm.
Not only could you plant any single one of these types of plants underneath your elm tree, but you could also combine them to create beautiful yet functional foliage closer to ground level.
Choosing A Plant For Underneath an Elm Tree
In this article, our main goal was to inform you about the 6 best plants to plant under your elm tree. However, properly growing those plants under your tree is also an important factor to be considered.
There are many plants that will require a lot of water or nutrients from the soil and will take the water and nutrients away from your elm. Avoid hindering your tree by following some best practices, as well as choosing the best plants.
Let’s dive a little deeper and discuss some of the most important things to consider when it comes to planting underneath an elm tree.
Consider The Livelihood Of All Plants
Having a plant that can handle tough conditions like an elm is not the standard -so, when choosing a plant for underneath it, it’s best to choose plants that require similar conditions to grow and thrive as an elm.
It is more likely than not that your elm will be able to deal with most plants that are planted under it. However, thanks to the extensive root system and dense shade of the elm tree, many plants may not be able to survive underneath your elm – and considering the livelihood of all plants is important.
Make Sure That Your Elm Is Away From Other Structures
The location of your elm tree makes a difference when it comes to its viability, as well as your ability to plant other plants underneath it.
If you have an elm tree that is pretty close to a fence, another tree, a building, or any other structure, your elm may not have room to flourish.
Though these are great urban trees to provide shade and act as windbreaks, the more space the better. Additionally, if you were hoping to plant some plants underneath your elm tree, it might not be possible if you have it planted too close to another structure or tree.
Make Sure You Are Planting Your Elm In USDA Zones 3-9
Also, be sure to keep up with the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map to check that your location is fitting for whatever plants you want to place under your elm.
Elm trees do best in hardiness zones 3-9, which means that the average extreme low temperature range they can survive a winter in is about -40 to 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
However, you’ll want to check that the plants you hope to incorporate into the area below your tree have a similar level of cold hardiness, or resistance to extremely cold temperatures.
Don’t Overwhelm Your Elm
Even though Elm trees are adaptable and durable, it is important to set your tree up for success.
Part of that success will come from building conditions that allow the tree to flourish in its own environment. This is done by giving the tree the means to focus on its own growth and internal systems, as opposed to fighting for nutrients from other plants.
To do this, you want to start by doing some research. You can refer to our 6 best plants to plant under your elm tree, of course, but if there are any other species that you’re considering- always ask a specialist.
Find The Best Route For Planting The Additional Plants
Once you know that your plant choice is going to be compatible with your elm, it’s time to think about planting the plant itself, and how much room is available to plant without damaging the roots.
To figure the spacing out, you can use a trowel like this Edward Tools Garden Trowel. It’s heavy-duty, made of carbon steel, and has an ergonomic grip. This is the perfect tool because you will avoid digging through the roots while being gentle and getting the job done!
Once you’ve established both the plant type and if you will be able to dig in between any roots and the space, it’s time to plant!
Techniques For Maintaining Your Elm Tree
While it is so important to know what plants are compatible with the soil and shade of an elm tree, there are also things that you can do to help maintain both your elm and the other plants that live underneath it.
So, what are these things, exactly?
Water, Water, Water!
What is one of the best ways to offer support to your tree? Easy! Make sure it is getting enough water.
When it comes to watering, you may have concerns about providing the right amount of water, at the right frequency, and maybe even at the optimal time of day.
One way to avoid these concerns is to use an irrigation system like this WATERHOOP Portable Water Sprinkler and Irrigation System. Unlike other, more extensive irrigation systems that work best for gardens and entire yards, this system will allow you to easily water trees and other outdoor plants thanks to the durable and adjustable hose.
No matter how you choose to maintain your watering practices, this is an easy and important bit of maintenance to give your tree and plants the best chance at success.
Fertilize to Maintain Life
Another piece of the puzzle to maintaining your tree has to do with the fertilizer that it is getting.
This goes back to the reason that some plants may not do as well under an elm tree as others, because not all plants will require the same nutrients that the elm will. So, that’s why we fertilize!
Trees and other plants are the same way. It’s crucial to have the water and nutrients they need in order to flourish.
Fertilizing Your Elm Is Essential
It is the best practice to fertilize elm trees once or twice a year, and then as needed in between. Slow-release, granular fertilizers are ideal, and you’ll want to keep an eye out for an NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) ratio of 5-10-10 or 6-12-12.
A great fertilizer option is the Lilly Miller Morcrop Tomato and Vegetable Food. Don’t worry about the fact that it is designated for vegetables, as long as your NPK number is right, you’ll be on the right track.
Since that particular fertilizer has an NPK of 5-10-10, you can be sure that it will support your elm tree, and any plants underneath, in the right way.
Prune and You Won’t Face Doom
Pruning is another important way to make sure that your tree will be here to stay.
Of course, in the case of disease, damage, or infection, you’ll want to prune any branches that are impacted to stop the spread of an issue. However, did you know that you can, and often should, prune perfectly healthy trees, too?.
Pruning helps your tree put its energy toward growing taller and more evenly, as it won’t have as much outward growth to focus on, and can focus on growing from within. A healthy tree should only be pruned once every few years. Often, as branches grow longer, they grow slowly but the tree puts a lot of effort into continuing that slower growth, as opposed to growing bigger overall.
If you are interested in learning more about pruning large trees the right way, we have an article just for you!
That’s A Wrap!
Alright friends, we’ve come to the end! As you work to add plants to your space, you might need to end up planting underneath your elm tree.
Remember that there are 6 best plants to grow underneath an elm tree:
Daffodils
Virginia Bluebell
Periwinkle
August Lily
Lily Turf
Japanese Fern
These plants are all quite adaptable and don’t have many specific needs. This is important as elm trees take a lot of work on their own. Elm tree roots require a lot of moisture and nutrients from the soil, as the canopy shades much of the tree from getting sun. So, having a plant underneath your elm that can be compatible and that does not take away necessary water and nutrients is key.
As usual, we wish you luck as you continue along your personal tree journey. Thanks for letting us be a part of it.
Until next time!
References
Sander, D. H. (1971). Soil properties and Siberian elm tree growth in Nebraska windbreaks. Soil Science, 112(5), 357-363.
Thomas, P. A., & Garber, M. P. (2009). Growing ferns.
Mulch has many practical uses. It protects your plants, suppresses weeds, retains moisture, and gives any garden or landscape that polished look. Maybe you have a few spruce trees on your property, or you have started seeing spruce mulch in the stores and you wonder; is spruce good for mulch?
Spruce mulch is typically a mixture of pine and spruce bark. This mixture has the same benefits as regular hardwood mulch, but it breaks down slower and can be aromatic. If you’re looking for a cost-effective, long-lasting much that smells like fresh pine forests, then spruce mulch is for you.
You can purchase spruce mulch from large retail chains or small, locally owned landscape suppliers. If you have some spruce trees on your property, you can even make your own spruce mulch. Depending on what you need it for, spruce mulch could be perfect for your landscape.
What Exactly Is Spruce Mulch?
Spruce mulch may sound pretty self-explanatory, but often it’s a mixture of spruce and pine tree bark. Spruce and pine trees are related after all, they are both evergreens, conifers, and produce needles instead of broad leaves.
The differences between the trees are somewhat subtle. Pine trees produce clusters of usually longer needles, whereas spruce trees produce small branches covered in short needles. Spruce trees also grow straighter and produce that conical, “Christmas tree shape.”
Pine and spruce mulch is made when machines strip the bark from the tree trunks when they are being processed for lumber. Pine and spruce lumber is often used for construction. Because of its availability and good workability, spruce lumber is the number one choice of construction wood in Europe.
Check out our article about the best spruce trees, for more information on spruce!
What Makes Spruce Mulch Special?
There are many benefits to using spruce mulch. As we said, spruce mulch is usually mixed with pine bark, but these nuggets make a great, long-lasting mulch. Even on its own, spruce mulch is a great mulch, here are the reasons why.
Spruce Mulch Lasts Longer
Most hardwood mulches are shredded into small pieces. Sometimes the mulch is even double or triple ground, making the pieces even smaller. Because of this, it breaks down and decomposes rather quickly.
Spruce mulch is mostly nuggets of bark, which are bigger than the ground up hardwood. The bigger pieces don’t have as much surface area exposed to the elements, and so it takes longer for them to decompose.
The bark is also naturally resistant to water and decomposition. Tree bark is much like our skin, it surrounds the living tissue of trees and protects the inside of the tree from water, air, insects, and illness. This natural resistance also keeps tree bark mulch from breaking down quickly.
Spruce Mulch Doesn’t Increase Soil Acidity
This is a myth that has been circulated for many years. Still many people swear that it’s true, but evergreen mulch does not increase the acidity of the soil. Pine needles won’t increase the acidity of the soil, and neither does pine or spruce mulch.
Pine needles are acidic, but they do not add that acidity to the soil. Pine trees grow in acidic soils, but don’t change the soil to suit their needs. The acidity in the needles is broken down by bacteria before it has a chance to alter the pH.
The reason plants have a hard time growing underneath pine trees is because of the thick, shallow roots, too much shade, and because the canopy is so thick, not much water can get through.
Trying to change the acidity of the soil by adding evergreen needles or mulch is like trying to change the color of a lake by pouring a few vials of food coloring.
Spruce Mulch Is Aromatic
If you enjoy the smell of fresh pine wood or the scents that perfume the air after cutting one down, you’ll probably enjoy the scent of spruce mulch. The scent comes from the oils and sap in the trees and it’s more aromatic the fresher it is.
The scent is similar to cedar shavings, but it’s not quite as strong and doesn’t have the “bite” that cedar wood does.
Spruce Mulch Has All The Benefits Of Hardwood Mulch
A thick bed of hardwood mulch offers benefits such as:
Weed prevention—weeds have a hard time penetrating through a layer of mulch. And when they actually do, it’s much easier to pull them out of mulch, than hard, dry, compacted soil. Mulch also prevents most weed seeds from germinating so you have fewer weeds overall.
Moisture retention—You won’t have to water your flowers or garden plants when you have a bed of mulch. It helps to keep moisture in the ground and prevents excess evaporation.
Ground and root protection—Mulch helps to keep the soil from getting too hot in the summer, and protects the roots from freezing during the winter. It’s like having a blanket when the weather gets cold and having a cooling fan during the heat of the summer.
Mulch adds organic material—Even though spruce mulch breaks down slower than typical mulch, it still decomposes. When mulch begins to decompose, it provides the plant’s roots with beneficial nutrients, which help to enrich the soil.
Breaks up clay—If you live in the south, you know all about the red clay soil and how hard it can be to grow certain plants in this dense dirt. You can add soil amendments to loosen it up, or just add some mulch. Over time, the mulch turns into rich soil that helps to alter the thick clay.
Spruce mulch does all of the above. So if you’re looking for a cheaper alternative or a longer-lasting organic mulch, you can’t go wrong with spruce mulch.
Can You Use Spruce Mulch In Your Vegetable Garden?
You certainly can. Mulch in your vegetable garden offers the same benefits as listed above, and can lead to stronger plants, soil enrichment, and bigger yields.
The only caveat here is to be careful using wood mulch under and around tomato plants. The wood chips can be sharp and damage the tender tomato stems. The best mulch for tomato plants is usually straw, shredded leaves, and grass clippings.
Can You Make Your Own Spruce Mulch?
If you are looking at the spruce trees on your property and are wondering if you can use them to make your own mulch, know that you certainly can. Depending on the equipment you have, or have access to, you can make your own mulch.
It can take some time and some methods are labor intensive, but it can certainly be done. If you are planning on cutting your spruce trees down, or they have been damaged by a storm, converting them to mulch is a viable option.
Let’s get into it and learn how to make your own spruce (and more) mulch.
Rent A Tree Chipper And Make Mulch For Yourself
Unless you have a tree cutting business, you probably don’t own a large wood chipper. For the 99% of us who don’t, you can rent them for a decent price. They generally rent for about $100 a day, depending on the size.
Chippers are usually sized by the diameter of the wood they can grind up. The smaller chippers usually can handle branches around 2 to 3 inches in diameter. These machines can fit in the back of a pickup truck or into a large SUV.
Larger machines (which I recommend if you have access to a trailer hitch) can chip larger-diameter branches. These can be up to 6 to 8 inches in diameter. If you need a larger chipper, you’ll have to haul an industrial-sized wood chipper.
Before renting a chipper, we recommend always contacting a professional before starting.
Cheaper Isn’t Necessarily Better
I recently owned a piece of property that had been neglected for years. It had so much undergrowth and wild, unkempt trees that desperately needed heavy pruning. To save some money I trimmed them myself, but then ended up with a huge pile of limbs and brush.
To get rid of the expanding brush pile and create some free mulch, I decided to rent a wood chipper. I decided to go with the 2-inch chipper because most of the wood was smaller limbs and saplings that needed culling.
It made a very large pile of beneficial mulch that would have cost me more than what it cost to rent the chipper. The problem was, I was brutally sore for two days after.
The Chipper Beat Me Up!
I think the blades were dull. I couldn’t tell because I have never used a chipper before, but if I threw the branch into the chipper and let it go, it could clog the machine up. Then I’d have to spend time removing the jam.
I solved this problem—probably unwisely—by holding tight to the branches to keep them from being dragged into the blades and clogging them up like rope around a mower. After a whole day of fighting with the chipper, I was in pain for days after.
Purchase Your Own Chipper For Small Branches
Again, maybe the machine I rented wasn’t the best and needed some maintenance. I was too hard headed to call the rental center to find out. But if you want to do it yourself you will probably have better luck with your own electric chipper.
It can shred lawn waste up to 1.7 inches in diameter and reduce the size of your brush pile. To handle all the spindly branches that are too small to burn, chip them into mulch. I’m sure this one won’t make you feel like you’re trying to wrestle the Kraken.
Go Bigger If You Can
If I had it to do over again, I would have gone with a bigger machine. Even though none of the branches were over 2 inches in diameter, the smaller machine had trouble with them.
As far as my personal experience, if you can afford, or are able to tow a larger chipper, go ahead and get it to save your back, shoulders, and arms, and save yourself a lot of frustration.
How To Make Spruce Mulch Without A Chipper
You can make your own wood mulch without a chipper, but it’s a tedious and very labor-intensive process. You will need a chainsaw, a sharp axe, and a hatchet.
The first step is to cut the spruce tree down. If you have never cut a tree before, or if it’s close to any buildings or structures, call a professional to cut it down for you.
Now that the tree is down, cut the branches off the main trunk, and then cut the branches and trunk into smaller sections. Cutting them to about 24 inches in length will be sufficient.
Cut Several Grooves Through The Logs
When using your chainsaw, you want to make sure the blade is sharp and doesn’t have a lot of slack.
Now, take the sections of logs, and cut strips into the logs along the grain. The thicker the logs, the better for this process.
Tips For Cutting The Groove
You’re not trying to cut all the way through, what you are doing is cutting about halfway to three-quarters of the way through the log. After the first cut along the grain, you’ll probably notice a lot of thin wood shreds. This is part of the mulch you are looking for.
These shreds of wood tend to clog up the chain-drive gear, so you’ll have to shut off the saw and clean out the wood tendrils so it doesn’t cause the saw to overheat. Depending on the thickness of the log, you may have to clean it out after each cut, or every other cut.
Continue to cut several grooves through the logs and soon you’ll have a large pile of thin, shredded spruce mulch. Try to cut a deep groove about every inch or so. This way you get more out of each log.
Now It’s Time To Swing The Axe
Once the logs are grooved and you have a large pile of shredded spruce mulch, you can make your own wood chips with a hatchet or axe. Just take the axe of your choice and start chipping away at the logs. With the deep cuts in the logs, when you chop at them with your axe, you’ll get small wood chips you can add to your shredded mulch so it lasts longer.
This LEXIVON V28 Chopping Axe is a great, sharp, ergonomic axe that’s made for chopping up chunks of wood. You’ll have wood shavings and your own mulch in no time.
Use the long chopping axe along with the WilFiks Chopping Axe, which comes highly rated. With these two tools, you can turn those spruce trees into mulch.
You can still use an axe to chop up mulch from the tree. Just start chopping on the tree and let the wood chips fly. As I said, these methods are extremely labor intensive, but if you’ve been looking for that lumberjack body, this is certainly the way to get it.
Considering a truckload of mulch can cost $300 to $500, maybe cutting mulch yourself isn’t such a bad idea. Especially if you end up getting a ripped body as a result, just saying.
Is Fresh Wood Mulch Bad For My Garden?
There is concern among many gardening enthusiasts that fresh wood chips, sawdust, and other woody mulch products—if they haven’t been aged appropriately—will tie up nitrogen from the soil.
Even if fresh wood chips were nitrogen-robbing thieves, they couldn’t remove enough of the nutrient to affect trees and shrubs that are already established. Plants that have established root systems could still get nitrogen from other areas of the soil. Remember, a tree’s roots can extend up to three times the size of the canopy.
The little nitrogen that is taken from the wood chips isn’t going to affect the tree. So if you put a two-foot ring of mulch around the tree, even if all the nitrogen was eliminated from under the mulch, it won’t harm the tree at all.
Leave The Wood Chips To Age
If you are still concerned about nitrogen being tied up for months, then just leave the fresh chips to age for 6 months to a year. After that time the fresh wood chips will have started the decomposition process, and started adding nitrogen to the soil.
Woody mulch actually increases nitrogen in the soil. Even freshly cut wood chips don’t absorb or remove nitrogen from the soil. If you are concerned about nitrogen levels, apply a layer of compost to the soil before laying the mulch.
By the time the compost is used up, the wood chips will start to biodegrade and continue to release nitrogen into the soil.
Use Mature Mulch For New Plants
If you are planting new bulbs, seeds, or just starting your garden, you may not want to use fresh cut mulch. “Aha!” you say, “it does affect the plants if it’s not aged.” There don’t appear to be many studies that support this theory.
The reason for using aged mulch with new plants is that they need more nutrients to get established. Their roots are trying to grow, and at the same time, new plants are expending a lot of energy in growing new leaves, branches, and stems.
Adding a mulch that decomposes quickly, or an aged compost is best to get these new plants started. Since fresh-cut mulch will take a long time to start decomposing, it may not be the best alternative for non-established plants.
Mulch won’t take the place of fertilizer, though. Check out our article on spruce tree fertilizers for more info on that!
What To Do With Leftover Mulch
If you have a lot of mulch left over and don’t have any more beds that need it you can store it until next year. Just store the leftover mulch in a dry area, outside and away from any structures.
It’s best to bag it up in thick, black plastic bags, but make sure the bags have several small holes in them so it’s able to breathe. You can also leave it in a pile if it’s too much to bag up, just be sure to “turn” it occasionally. Just like compost, the mulch will need to be stirred to prevent mold and let the mulch deep inside get sunlight and air.
Weed Before Applying Mulch
For mulch to be an effective weed barrier, you should get rid of existing weeds first. Getting rid of the weeds first assures you have fewer that will need to be pulled out later. After the mulch is applied, it makes it harder for seeds to germinate. It can still happen but at a much-reduced rate.
To get rid of the weeds, first, you can use a garden hoe and chop them out before adding a thick layer of mulch. You can also go the old-fashioned route and pull them straight out.
Another way to get rid of weeds is to pour boiling water on them. Be sure you don’t have any plants nearby that could be harmed because if the hot water hits the roots, it could damage them or prove fatal for the plant.
Why Mulch Might Attract Insects
Fresh and decomposed mulch does attract insects. There are a lot of bugs that are attracted to moisture such as pill bugs, crickets, earwigs, ants, spiders, millipedes, and centipedes.
Insects will come for the moisture, and places to hide, and then the predators will follow. I have seen centipedes, spiders, beetles, and others in mulch before, but I have yet to find termites in any beds of mulch. I’m not an expert on termites, I’m just reporting my findings.
If bugs and termites are prevalent in your area, or you just don’t want insects getting close to your house because of mulch, there are options. Applying a one to two foot barrier of inorganic mulch such as river rocks, or shredded tires around your house can reduce the number of insects that get into your house.
Let’s Wrap It Up!
Spruce mulch is just as good, if not better than other more expensive hardwood mulches. It can last longer, it’s usually less expensive and it provides the same benefits as more expensive mulch.
You can even make your own mulch by renting or buying a wood chipper, or cutting it up yourself. Just use your chainsaw, hatchet, and trusty chopping axe if you have the energy and physical stamina.
Go ahead and spruce up your landscape with some new mulch—sorry, I was holding that in this whole time and couldn’t resist.
References
Arentoft, B. W., et al. “A new method to evaluate the weed‐suppressing effect of mulches: a comparison between spruce bark and cocoa husk mulches.” Weed Research 53.3 (2013): 169-175.
Fang, Shengzuo, Baodong Xie, and Jiujun Liu. “Soil nutrient availability, poplar growth and biomass production on degraded agricultural soil under fresh grass mulch.” Forest Ecology and Management 255.5-6 (2008): 1802-1809.
Downer, Jim. “Mulch effects on trees.” Western Arborist 35 (2009): 30-34.
Ramakrishna, A., et al. “Effect of mulch on soil temperature, moisture, weed infestation and yield of groundnut in northern Vietnam.” Field crops research 95.2-3 (2006): 115-125.
Ash trees are a favorite landscape staple. But if you’ve just moved into a home with one, or it’s your first season owning one, there’s something you’re sure to notice—the mess! Unfortunately, this is just part of dealing with an ash tree.
Why are ash trees so messy? Ash trees disperse leaves and seeds seasonally. Not only that, but they also tend to shed bark and branches more than other trees. You can minimize your clean-up time with seed prevention treatments, sterilization, and regular pruning.
However, those are only some things that make an ash tree messy. In this guide, we’ll look deeper into why these trees make such a mess and what you can do about it!
Leaves, Seeds, And More Make Ash Trees So Messy
Before we get into what you can do about the mess, it’s important to take a look at the why behind it. You’re certainly used to the typical leafy clutter in the autumn that so many trees, like oaks and maples, leave on the ground.
Ash trees are deciduous, meaning they lose their leaves in cold weather.
Once their leaves drop, they go into a kind of dormancy to preserve their energy. When spring returns, deciduous trees start growing back their leaves and ramp up for new growth. Like many other deciduous trees, they also drop seeds in late summer and throughout autumn.
This is just the start of the mess from ash trees, however.
Ash Trees Lose Their Leaves In The Autumn
As we just reviewed, ash trees are deciduous and lose their leaves in autumn and winter. Although they have a lot of leaves, most people are used to raking and leaf blowing—a seasonal chore for every tree owner!
With that in mind, leaves are the most obvious (and the most expected) source of mess from an ash tree. Of course, this can be said for most trees that lose their leaves when the seasons change.
While they may not have the iconic look of the maple tree’s ‘helicopter’ seeds, ash trees do drop seeds in autumn. These usually drop to ground around the same time that the leaves have turned and the first of the leaves are beginning to fall.
Their seeds also have wings, which is important when you’re looking at the mess they make.
Because ash trees have samaras (the term for winged seeds), the seeds don’t just fall directly under the tree. Instead they spread throughout your yard and everywhere the wind takes them.
These seeds are also lighter than leaves, which means that in addition to their winged form, their weight makes it easy for them to travel quite a distance.
An Ash Trees Brittle Bark Can Make A Big Mess
Ash trees have bark, stems, and branches that are often more delicate than many other trees. That’s why you might see bark littering the ground under your tree.
Bits of bark isn’t the only side effect of ash trees’ brittle wood; they also have broken branches and twigs that frequently fall.
Broken branches can happen at any time throughout the year. However, you may notice them more when the weather turns cold, and the wood becomes less pliable.
Because they’re delicate, they’re more likely to encounter natural damage. This is one factor contributing to the mess that you may be able to mitigate, and we’ll cover that in more depth later.
Of course, if you’re familiar with your ash tree (especially if it’s established and you’ve had it for quite a while), you know that litter from falling bark probably isn’t the most significant burden you’ll encounter. Nonetheless, you can still take care of brittle bark and limbs to reduce your overall maintenance in your yard clean-up.
Ash Trees Produce A Lot of Pollen
Although pollen doesn’t necessarily contribute to the mess on your lawn, it is a mess you might notice on everything in and around your yard. This side effect of owning an ash tree becomes even more noticeable if you have allergies!
Male ash trees are the main culprits of this excessive pollen production, so if you can’t stop sneezing in the springtime and there’s an ash tree in your yard, that might be the cause.
Regulating pollen from male ash trees can be challenging, and pollen can be nearly impossible to eradicate entirely, as seen in this study from the University of Minnesota.
What To Do About The Mess From Ash Trees
Now that you know the cause, you might wonder how to take care of the mess. Fortunately, you can do plenty of things to clean up the mess. But, what about preventing the mess ash trees make in the first place?
Unfortunately, turning a natural tree into a mess-free plastic model is impossible. However, you can take some maintenance measures to reduce the mess when it does come—and it will!
Keep Ash Leaves Raked Up
Leaves are frustrating. By the time you finish one pass, a thousand more leaves have fallen. Even worse, there’s no way to stop it because you can’t control the life cycle of a tree.
That said, there may be some ways to make the job easier!
The Right Lawn Tools Can Make The Job Easier
When you have the right lawn tools, you’ll spend much less time dealing with leaves. Larger, no-clog rakes are excellent because they do more work in less time. Work smarter, not harder!
Also, leaf blowers, vacuums, and mulchers are fantastic ways to get the job done faster!
Are you in need of a boss rake? Check out this Tabor Tools Adjustable Metal Rake. With up to 63 inches of reach and an adjustable head, raking won’t even feel like a chore!
Ways To Dispose Of Ash Leaves Once You’ve Raked Them
Now, when it comes to the leaves you gather, you have a few options. The first is gathering the leaves and letting your local disposal service pick them up.
The second option is getting the leaves together and burning them. However, please check your local regulations to ensure you’re allowed and follow all the mandated procedures.
The third, and most helpful option, is one that you may not have considered: turning your leaves into mulch or compost to enrich your garden.
You can create this mulch yourself, although it can be a laborious task. It’s a good idea to get a mulcher, like this WORX Electric Leaf Mulcher, which will do all the work for you.
Landscaping and Mowing Can Help With Ash Seeds
In addition to leaves, seeds can be a massive pain. If you take a lot of pride in your lawn, the last thing you want is seeds littered around, causing saplings to grow.
You can deal with dropped seeds in several ways. The most natural way to deal with them (although you probably won’t like it) involves sweeping and raking them up.
But there are other options:
Plant male ash trees. Because male ash trees don’t produce seeds, you’ll never have to worry about them. Just keep in mind that male trees are more apt to irritate allergies due to excessive pollen.
Keep nearby gardens well mulched to prevent seedlings from growing. If seeds fall onto a bed of heavy mulch, there’s less chance they will root. If they do, simply pulling them up should help—but it can be a pain!
Mow your lawn regularly. Regular mowing helps mulch fallen seeds. The damaged pods won’t be able to root and will decompose. Additionally, attaching a mower bag like this Leaf Collector Bag for Riding Lawn Mowers will help you scoop up fallen seeds.
Cut down or relocate the tree. We know this might seem extreme, but if the seeds drive you crazy, it might be your only option!
Hydration And Pruning Can Help Prevent Broken Branches
If you’re looking at the litter around your ash tree, you’re probably seeing plenty of bark chips, twigs, and even broken branches.
Reduce this mess by ensuring your ash tree is well-hydrated and getting the correct nutrients. You can do this by fertilizing it frequently and using the right formula.
If you’re not sure how often you should be watering, we have an article that explains exactly how much to water your ash tree.
Like many other species, ash trees need plenty of nitrogen. Nitrogen is critical in keeping the leaves healthy, allowing optimal photosynthesis—which we know is how trees make food to fuel growth and replace old cells.
Pruning is another crucial step in preventing ash trees from making a mess with their broken branches. Pruning will help reduce mess, and it’s also good for the tree’s health.
First, it keeps branches from rubbing against one another, which can eventually cause breakage. Next, taking care of problematic limbs now prevents more significant health problems in the future. And finally, pruning your tree helps air circulate through its canopy, which helps prevent mold and fungal issues.
Is There Anything You Can Do To Reduce Pollen In Ash Trees?
The last type of mess from ash trees is pollen. If you’re an allergy sufferer, you might not see the pollen, but you certainly feel it.
It’s important to remember that male ash trees are the main culprits in producing pollen.
Female ash trees do not release pollen. It’s the flowers from male ash trees that produce it. So, if you haven’t planted a tree yet, and you’re set on having an ash tree, planting a female tree will prevent allergy issues.
Just remember, female trees are primarily responsible for seed pods.
Another thing you should know: while some ash trees are either male or female, it’s not uncommon to see hermaphrodite ash trees. In fact, some ash trees even go through a hermaphrodite phase, with some staying in that state.
There are products on the market that claim to sterilize trees and keep them from growing fruit in an attempt to procreate. However, we don’t recommend doing this yourself. Instead, please consult a trained specialist with significant knowledge about this subject.
How To Care For Your Ash Tree
Ash trees aren’t the most difficult to care for, but they still need regular care and maintenance to remain healthy. Keep in mind that different species may require additional care. That said, you can use the general guideline below for most ash trees.
Ash trees do well in most types of soil as long as the soil drains well while also retaining some moisture.
Established trees are more drought tolerant, although they prefer somewhat damp soil. Ash trees also thrive in areas where they can get full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight throughout the day. Ash trees can grow in partial sun, although they will grow slowly and may not reach their maximum height.
This type of tree also needs ample room to grow and to allow its root systems to spread out. Aside from not planting an ash tree too close to other trees, you should also take care to grow them away from homes, walls, and other structures.
As far as trees go, ash trees can survive quite well without extra fertilizer. That said, just because it can survive doesn’t mean you should ignore fertilizing altogether.
For the best health, fertilize your ash tree at least once a year. Always check the instructions on the fertilizer you buy, as some need to be diluted. Likewise, some formulas are designed for annual use, while others need to be used twice a year or more.
How Big Do Ash Trees Get?
Ash trees can get reasonably big upon reaching maturity. In fact, most species reach heights between 60 and 120 feet tall.
If you want to have a towering ash tree, you will need to provide it with optimal conditions to allow it to do so.
How quickly do ash trees grow, you may wonder. Well, ash trees aren’t the fastest growers, but they’re certainly not the slowest either. They’re considered to have a medium growth speed. You can expect your ash tree to add between one and two feet to its height yearly (until it’s fully grown).
If you want to know exactly how long it takes for an ash tree to grown, check out our ash tree timeline!
Why Keep An Ash Tree?
With all the mess they make, you might wonder why people plant ash trees in the first place.
Let’s find out!
They Add Visual Appeal To Your Lawn And Garden
They’re beautiful, add height to a landscape, and make excellent shade trees.
Between their bright green leaves, puffy white flowers, and lazy seed pods, ash trees are unique and beautiful. Moreover, because they grow in height and width, they can add height to a landscape and make excellent shade trees.
Ash Trees Are Beneficial To The Ecosystem Around Them
For example, if you live near a body of water (whether it’s a lake, river, or pond), ash trees can help maintain your shoreline.
A bare shoreline naturally deteriorates and gradually slips into the water surrounding it. The plants that grow near the water typically stabilize the land and prevent it from eroding. Ash trees have strong roots that seek out water, and as a result, they thread through the soil to get closer to the water source. Ultimately, this fortifies the ground around them.
Interestingly, ash trees are used in many alpine areas to prevent natural disasters (like landslides). It’s also becoming more commonplace in countries such as Switzerland according to science journal, Catena.
Local Wildlife Will Love Your Ash Trees
Ash trees can provide shelter to animals who might otherwise struggle to find a suitable habitat.Gardeners will be happy to know that many of the animal’s these trees attract prey on common garden pests.
For example, tadpoles often munch on ash leaves before growing into frogs that prey on pests like mosquitos and crop-eating insects.
So if you’re sick of having your hard-grown plants eaten by pests, a water-side ash tree might be your solution.
Protect Endangered Ash Trees
Another thing you should know is that many of the main ash tree species are endangered. By planting and maintaining them, you’re helping preserve biodiversity.
Unfortunately, Emerald Ash Borers are a non-native, invasive, and devastating pest that has decimated large populations of these helpful trees. Because of that, many species are considered critically endangered.
If you can use our guide to manage the mess of an ash tree while still keeping your tree, you’re doing yourself and the ecosystem a favor.
Key Points
For those that want a quick summary of how to prevent the mess from ash trees, consider this list:
Keep your tree well hydrated to avoid excess bark shedding and broken branches
Prune branches before they fail to keep your tree healthy (and your yard clean)
Regular fertilization can prevent health issues that lead to extra mess
Consider using a product to sterilize your trees to reduce dropping seeds
Sterilization can also help reduce pollen production for allergy sufferers
Always consult a professional or arborist if you’re unsure which process or products to use
Conclusion
As we wrap up this guide, let’s examine the main things we’ve learned. Yes, ash trees are naturally messy. However, you can take measures to mitigate many of those issues, including seed prevention treatments, sterilization, planting female trees, and regular (as well as pre-emptive) pruning.
Something important to remember is that trees, no matter what species, are an investment—even if the central part of the investment is your time. Once you take steps to prevent the mess from your ash tree, you’ll notice a reduction in the time you spend on yard cleanup.
Don’t let a temporary mess prevent you from enjoying these amazing trees. Remember, if you’re unsure what to do, an arborist will help you properly treat your trees. An ash tree can make your yard more comfortable and help balance out the ecosystem surrounding it.
Hitz, O. M., Gärtner, H., Heinrich, I., & Monbaron, M. (2008). Application of ash (Fraxinus excelsior L.) roots to determine erosion rates in mountain torrents. Catena, 72(2), 248-258.
Niederberger, V., Purohit, A., Oster, J. P., Spitzauer, S., Valenta, R., & Pauli, G. (2002). The allergen profile of ash (Fraxinus excelsior) pollen: cross‐reactivity with allergens from various plant species. Clinical & Experimental Allergy, 32(6), 933-941.
Sawers, B. (2013). Regulating pollen. Minn. L. Rev. Headnotes, 98, 96.
Stephens, J. P., Berven, K. A., & Tiegs, S. D. (2013). Anthropogenic changes to leaf litter input affect the fitness of a larval amphibian. Freshwater Biology, 58(8), 1631-1646.
Maple trees are some of the most popular trees, not only because of their storied beautiful fall foliage but also because they grow quickly in most varieties and they are fairly easy to care for. But not all maple trees can be treated the same. Some are so different, in fact, that you might not even recognize that they are all actually types of maple trees.
Japanese maple trees differ from red maple trees mainly in their size. They also differ in the rate of their growth, the color of their leaves, and their ideal growing environment. Red maple trees and Japanese maple trees generally serve different purposes in a yard or garden.
Both types of maple trees are beautiful year-round, especially in the fall when their leaves are spectacular colors. And both types of maple trees can provide some useful elements to your yard, like shade in varying amounts or just general beauty for your garden. But there are some important differences that can affect not only what type of maple tree you plant, but also how you plant, care for, and place that maple tree.
Read on for all the info you need to tell these two beautiful species of maple apart and decide whether you need one or both of these varieties in your yard!
Are All Maple Trees The Same?
There are many different varieties of maple trees, all of which have some version of the Latin name acer.
Maple trees are set apart from other groups of trees by a few defining characteristics:
Maple trees have distinctive leaves.
Maple trees have distinctive flowers.
Maple trees have samaras, which are helicopter-like seeds that spin down from the trees.
Although today we are focusing on two amazing maple tree variations, there are a bunch more variations that you should consider if these don’t meet your needs! Head on over to our article about the best maple tree variations to plant, to learn more information.
They Have Iconic Leaves
Maple leaves are probably the most recognizable characteristics of maple trees of all varieties and are probably the easiest way to identify whether or not a tree is a maple.
The leaves of the maple tree, no matter the variety, are shaped with lobes; there can be a varying number of them, but the result is an iconic leaf with pointed ends on each lobe and all lobes of the same size.
Maple leaves in most varieties are green through the spring and summer but turn yellow, orange, or red in the fall.
A Maple Tree’s Fruits And Flowers
The flowers of maple trees are very small, but their shape –a bud that looks almost like a honeysuckle– is also a distinctive quality.
Lastly, maple trees produce samaras instead of acorns or exposed seeds. Samaras are like little wings that spin down from the maple trees with the seeds of the maple trees hidden inside.
Once you are able to recognize some of the key elements of maple trees, you might be able to more easily see the similarities between two trees that, at first glance, seem very different: the Japanese maple tree and the red maple tree.
Japanese Maple Trees
The Japanese maple is very popular in Japan, but it also enjoys a great deal of popularity in the United States.
Japanese maple trees originated in Japan, as their name indicates, but are also native to China, Korea, and the southeastern region of Russia.
But these trees have been used in gardens in the United States for a long time, and they grow very well in most U.S. climates.
Japanese maple trees are often used as decorative trees, and they are frequently found in gardens or as accent features to larger yards. They can be grown in many climates, and they can endure a variety of types of sunlight exposure. They can even be grown indoors.
There Are So Many Varieties Of Japanese Maple Trees
Japanese maple trees come in many different varieties, with some boasting green leaves most of the year that turns purple and red in the fall, or some that have purple and red leaves in the spring that turn green in summer then orange and red in the fall.
The colors throughout the year vary a good bit depending on the variety of Japanese maple, but almost all Japanese maple trees have something to offer by way of interesting colors to adorn your garden or yard.
Red Maple Trees
The red maple is one of the most common and popular varieties of maple trees.
It grows naturally in forests all over the northeastern United States and has been planted in yards and gardens all over the country.
Red maple trees are very plentiful in the northeast part of the country, where huge numbers of them can be grouped together, creating a spectacular sight in the fall that many people travel long distances to see.
Red maple trees are known for, as the name indicates, the distinctive, bright red color their leaves take during the autumn season.
Different varieties of red maple have been developed specifically for their beautiful fall colors. For example, the Autumn Blaze maple tree is, as its name indicates, a particularly bright tree in the fall, with leaves that turn brilliant orange or bright red.
But They Don’t Get The Name Red From Only Their Leaves
Red maples didn’t get their name from just the color of their autumn foliage.
Red maple trees have many red components, from their red twigs in winter to their red flowers in springtime.
They also have red buds and even some red components in the summer, such as the petiole (that’s the part of the tree that holds onto the leaves until they are ready to fall in autumn)!
Red Maple Trees Have Many Perks To Planting
Red maple trees make great shade trees, as they grow a lot of leaves in their tall canopies, providing a lot of shade under their branches throughout all seasons except winter.
Red maple trees are also very hardy trees, able to withstand variations in water, temperature, and sunlight.
They can survive very cold winters full of ice and snow, and they can live through heat and drought.
It is best, though, not to push the limits of your maple tree; in hot or dry weather, make sure to give even the red maple some extra water.
Maple trees actually need a lot of water, and if you decide to plant a red or Japanese maple, you should head on over to our article about why maple trees need so much water, to make sure you give your tree the best chance of survival!
1. Japanese Maples Trees Are Smaller Than Red Maple Trees
Japanese maple trees grow to a height of anywhere between six feet and 25 feet tall.
This is significantly smaller than most varieties of standard red maple which can grow to be as tall as 60 feet.
If you want a large shade tree to take the prominent spot in your front yard, a red maple might be ideal.You can plant just one tree and achieve a huge focal point that provides a ton of shade, plus the tree grows quickly, meaning it gets big fast.
Japanese Maples Are The Perfect Size For Gardens
Japanese maples, however, are very well suited to be grown in groups or placed in gardens where a tree with a smaller profile is best.
They work well near a bench, near other trees, next to a fence, or in a garden that has limited space.
If you live in a townhouse or condo, for example, your small back garden might be just right for a Japanese maple, which can fill the space and make it feel like your own little forest.
Red Maples Are Better For Shade Because They Grow Large
If you are looking to create a big statement in your yard, provide a great amount of shade, or just grow a big tree because you like maple trees, red maple is your better choice.
Red maple trees have huge, leafy canopies, perfect for providing shade to a large area. T
Their large size means that you can plant a single tree to provide the same amount of colorful plant life and visual interest as you could achieve with several smaller trees.
Of course, if the idea of several smaller plants or trees appeals to you, the Japanese maple will fit the bill best. It all depends on whether you want to plant multiple trees or just one, and on how much space you have in your yard or garden.
2. Japanese Maple Trees Can Be Grown In Containers
One interesting focal feature you can introduce to a yard or garden is a tree grown in a container.
Japanese maples can also make great additions to porches, decks, or the sides of walkways and driveways. Knowing what types of trees can live in containers, though, can be a little tricky.
The Japanese maple is a great contender for a container tree. Some varieties of Japanese maple only grow to be several feet tall, so the trees stay small enough to live their mature lives in containers, as opposed to larger trees like the red maple which would need to be transferred.
Perks Of Growing In A Container
Growing a Japanese maple tree in a container is as simple as choosing a container large enough to accommodate the variety of trees you have purchased and then making sure you water it adequately and place it in the right amount of sunlight.
One bonus to putting your Japanese maple in a container is that you will be able to easily move it, meaning that if you need to adjust the tree’s sunlight or humidity, you can do so with ease.
You will also be able to move the Japanese maple indoors in the winter months, helping it stay healthier, especially in its early years when the young tree is most vulnerable to things like frost, ice, and snow.
Red Maples Have To Be Moved From Containers
You can start a young red maple sapling in a container, but you probably have two years at most before you will need to move it into the ground.
Red maples grow very large very quickly, so if you do not move the tree in time, the lack of space for its root ball will probably cause the tree’s demise.
3. Japanese Maple Trees Grow More Slowly Than Red Maple Trees
Red maple trees grow quite quickly. Red maple trees generally grow a foot or two every year.
This is not the case with Japanese maple trees, which are notoriously slow growers; some Japanese maple trees grow less than one foot per year.
It can take a full decade before Japanese maple trees are just 15 feet tall.
While most of the time it might seem like you want trees to grow as quickly as possible, that is not necessarily the case with ornamental trees meant to provide color or a little shade to a garden or small yard.
If you’re looking to create some shade fast, we have a helpful chart of the 8 fastest growing maple trees just for you!
4. They Require Different Amounts Of Sun
Most varieties of maple trees do well in full sun, as long as they are not being grown in a very hot, dry climate that can scorch their leaves.
In their native environment, like the northeastern United States, red maple trees prefer plentiful sunlight. You just have to consider the best fit for your particular location.
Choosing A Spot For A Japanese Maple
Japanese maple trees, however, grow best in partial shade or in complete shade in the afternoon. This means that you need to consider carefully the location of your tree before you plant it.
To achieve partial shade, first, observe the area of your yard or garden where you want to plant your Japanese maple tree. You’ll need to see how much sunlight the spot gets and at what times of the day.
Usually, plants and trees that prefer some shade are able to tolerate morning sunlight better than afternoon sunlight, which coincides with hotter temperatures and can be more scorching and damaging to delicate plants.
You can choose a sunny spot that is shaded in the afternoon, or you can choose a spot that gets indirect sunlight throughout the day.
The shady afternoon spot will probably be the result of your tree being planted near another tree, plant, or structure like your house, garage, or shed, where indirect light will probably occur if your tree is planted close enough to a larger tree (like a red maple, for example) that can shade it throughout all or most times of the day.
Choosing A Spot For A Red Maple
To plant your red maple tree in direct sunlight, observation is also key.
Red maple trees can tolerate some shade, so you don’t need full sun all day long, but you can be more relaxed in choosing a spot for a red maple tree, as it is not as picky about the afternoon sun.
An Exception To The Rule
One exception to these sunlight guidelines is if you live in a very hot, dry climate with a great deal of sunshine and very little clouds or rain.
In these cases, your tree can get scorched, even with just a few hours of sunlight.
There are two important mitigating methods here to follow:
Make sure your maple tree, no matter what variety, is getting plenty of water. Trees in this environment will need much more water than a maple would need in another climate, so pay careful attention and make sure you are watering your tree regularly.
You can choose a shadier spot than the general recommendation. Try placing your Japanese maple tree in a spot that is shady more often than it is sunny. The indirect sunlight might be enough to help the tree grow without scorching its leaves.
All in all, maple trees in most climates will do well with varying amounts of sunlight, but the general difference is that Japanese maple trees need more shade while red maple trees need more sun.
5. Japanese Maple Trees And Red Maple Trees Serve Different Purposes
You might have multiple reasons for your interest in planting a maple tree, so there is likely to be some overlap on your list of pros to both Japanese maple trees and red maple trees.
Both types of trees produce beautiful fall foliage, and both types of trees provide some amount of shade and both look beautiful in gardens or yards.
But there are some differences that might be key in your consideration of these two types of maple trees.
Japanese Maple Are Ornamental
Japanese maple trees are planted primarily for their aesthetic contributions to a yard or garden.
They are ornamental trees that do not produce any type of fruit or usable product, and they are not used for lumber.
Japanese maple trees are very frequently favored by gardeners looking to add beauty and visual interest to a landscape or garden.
Because they are smaller than most maple trees, Japanese maples can be planted closer than standard maples to fences or gates, in corners, and closer to other plants and trees. They are also very colorful, giving extra vibrancy to any garden.
Red Maple Trees Have More Functions
Red maple trees are likely to be planted for different purposes. Like the Japanese maple, the red maple is very beautiful, especially in the fall, but it grows much bigger and will not fit in the same types of spots as a Japanese maple.
The red maple is also a hardier tree, meaning that it can be grown in more extreme conditions than the Japanese maple, so it might serve a different purpose in a less shaded area of a garden or yard.
You are most likely to plant a red maple tree as a major focal point of a yard or to provide ample shade for your house or garden.
Red maple trees can also produce usable lumber or firewood, and they even produce sap that can be used for maple syrup.
So, essentially, red maple trees are more functional while Japanese maple trees are more decorative.
Planting A Maple Tree
You can choose whether a red maple or a Japanese maple is best suited for your yard or home.
Maybe you want to plant a container tree that you will not have to transport into the ground, so the Japanese maple is the clear choice for you. But maybe you are hoping to grow a large shade tree, so you should go with a red maple.
Either way, these are beautiful trees sure to enhance your yard or garden.If you decide to plant a tree, there are a few ways to go about it.
For more information on transporting maple trees, head on over to our article for the best ways to transport them! Although Japanese maple trees don’t have to be transported as often as the other variations, you still may want to eventually. This article is full of all the info you would need to know!
Ways To Plant
You can just get seeds and germinate them, then translate the seedlings into the ground or container.
If your budget permits and you would like to start further in the process, you can buy a seedling or sapling of varying sizes.
Some are even sold at several feet tall already, giving you quite the head start on growing your red or Japanese maple tree.
You can buy Japanese maple tree seeds if you want to grow your tree from a seedling. Yunakesa Japanese Maple Seeds, for example, are available online. You can also order live saplings if you want to start later in the process, like with this DAS Farms Red Maple Sapling.
That’s A Wrap!
Now you are ready to decide which type of maple tree is right for you. Or maybe you have decided to plant one of each. Either way, you now have enough information to tell these trees apart from each other and plant accordingly.
Now that you’ve got all the detail about which maple to grow, make sure to check out our article on a maple tree timeline, to assist you on your tree journey!
If you are unsure which tree is best for your environment, we recommend heading on over to a local professional to assist you.
Enjoy your new maple tree or trees!
References
Frank, S. D., Klingeman III, W. E., White, S. A., & Fulcher, A. (2013). Biology, injury, and management of maple tree pests in nurseries and urban landscapes. Journal of Integrated Pest Management, 4(1), B1-B14.
Honma, A., Koyama, T., & Yazawa, K. (2010). Antihyperglycemic effects of Japanese maple Acer amoenum leaf extract and its constituent corilagin. Journal of wood science, 56(6), 507-512.
Popular because of both their breathtaking beauty and general hardiness (two qualities that make them excellent choices for adding to virtually any garden or landscape), Japanese maple trees are known primarily for their bright crimson foliage.
Even with their widespread popularity, however, many people don’t understand when Japanese maple trees turn red or even why they exhibit these dramatic color changes. The simple explanation for why Japanese maple trees change between red and green relates to the various pigments in the leaves and how certain weather and temperature conditions affect those pigments.
In order to help you better understand this fascinating phenomenon, we’re going to discuss the matter in greater detail. We’ll go over not only the science behind these color changes but also share with you some information about what might trigger the switch from red to green (and vice versa). We hope you find this information interesting!
Japanese Maples Begin Spring New Growth With Red Foliage
While it’s easy to say that, in general, Japanese maple trees start with red leaves in springtime, the reality is slightly more complex and depends on a few different factors.
Some of the factors that can affect leaf pigmentation include (but are not limited to) the weather and temperature conditions where you live as well as what type of Japanese maple you are growing.
Additionally, as we will discuss momentarily, not all maple trees are created equal when it comes to when they develop red leaves (or if they ever display red leaves at all) so it’s important to understand these details when learning about these marvelous trees.
Only Specially Selected Japanese Maples Begin With Red Leaves
As mentioned above, not all Japanese maple trees begin with red leaves; rather, there are certain cultivars that possess this quality. Two of the most well-known of these varieties include Bloodgood and Suminagashi, both of which are known for their brilliant red and deep crimson foliage, but there are quite a few others as well.
Naturally, the reverse of this is also true: some Japanese maples begin with green leaves and don’t turn red until a change of the seasons occurs. And there are other cultivars that never turn entirely red, instead displaying gold or orange leaves.
The red color itself is the result of anthocyanins and carotenoids; these botanical pigments are responsible for the colors such as red, orange, purple, and blue when seen in plants, and it is the presence of these pigments that results in the distinctive shades of crimson seen in Japanese red maples.
Though, as we mentioned before, not all varieties of maples possess anthocyanins and carotenoids in such high quantities as to outshine the chlorophyll in the leaves (which is responsible for green coloring).
As such, if your goal is to grow a Japanese maple with either red leaves or leaves that will eventually turn red, it’s important that you have at least a general understanding of these different cultivars. Understanding the type of maple tree you’re dealing with can help you better understand why and when its leaves may change color.
Some Trees Develop Red Leaves As The Weather Changes
While there are some varieties of Japanese maples that remain red all throughout the year, other cultivars begin with green foliage before changing color to red. This, of course, leads many people to ask: why do these trees change color? What triggers it? The answer in most cases is: because of the weather. Specifically, the weather and lighting changes that come with the changing of the seasons are often what cause trees to turn red.
As mentioned earlier, the color of maple tree foliage in general relates to the various pigments found in the leaves; green comes from chlorophyll while the more vivid colors such as red and orange come from anthocyanins and carotenoids (which we discussed briefly earlier).
While these pigments are usually always physically present within the leaves during all seasons of the year, the brilliant red colors they create sometimes only become visible when the weather changes in the autumn and causes the green chlorophyll to break down. The longer nights that come during the fall and winter months can also be a contributing factor to this color change.
Japanese Maples Begin To Turn Red And Orange During Fall
There are certain things that can trigger a color change in Japanese maples, but in many cases, it is safe to say that most maples turn red in the fall.
On that note, let’s dive into this phenomenon. We’ll also go over a few exceptions to it. It is our hope that this information will help you to gain a greater understanding of these seasonal color changes. It can get confusing, but that’s why we are here!
Most Maples Turn Orange Or Red In The Fall Months
As we discussed earlier on in this article, the two most common triggers for a color change in Japanese maple foliage are temperature and light. (There are also certain types of damage that can cause color changes, but we will go over those types of situations a little later on.)
Since autumn is often the time of year when you have colder temperatures and short days with less light, it should come as no surprise that fall is the time of year when most maple trees begin to change color from green to red (as the chlorophyll begins to break down from reduced sunlight and warmth).
Exceptions to this include varieties of Japanese maple that don’t usually turn red in any circumstances. Some cultivars, for example, typically exhibit green foliage that will change color to yellow or gold once autumn hits but never darken to orange or red. Any Japanese maple trees that are experiencing certain types of nutrient deficiency might also see an impact on their coloring.
Why Is Your Red Japanese Maple Turning Green?
To have your Japanese maple tree suddenly begin to turn from red to green can be not only confusing but also alarming, leaving you to wonder if this change in coloring is normal or a sign of some problem with your tree.
Generally speaking, Japanese maple trees are fairly hardy once they are well-established in their environment. That being said, when it comes to these marvelous trees, there are certain conditions or types of damage that can affect not only their health but also their coloring.
In order to help you better understand these color changes, we will now discuss reasons why a red Japanese maple tree might turn red. It is our hope that this information can help you to better understand not only the color change process itself but also when to be concerned about it.
Red Maples Will Turn Green If There Isn’t Enough Sun
Japanese red maple trees are known for not only their vibrant foliage but also their love of sunlight. These trees prefer growing in full sun, although some varieties can grow alright in partial shade. In fact, these trees love sunlight so much that if they do not receive sufficient sunlight to remain healthy, they may begin to fade from red to green (or even pale yellow).
As such, when first planting a maple tree in your yard or garden, it’s important to place it somewhere where it will get plenty of sunlight not only as a sapling but also once it grows larger and reaches maturity.
Generally speaking, it’s best to avoid planting a Japanese maple tree too close to your home, outbuildings, or any other large trees that might block sunlight from reaching it.
While the specific symptoms can vary depending on the actual underlying issue, certain types of damage and botanical diseases can sometimes cause leaf discoloration in Japanese maples, including a shift from vibrant red to green or even yellow.
According to the Iowa State University Extension, one of the most common causes of this sort of color change is Verticillium wilt. This fungus can cause a variety of different problems depending on the severity of the situation, but one of the most obvious symptoms is the leaves wilting and turning yellow or pale green at a time of year when they should not.
Overwatering can also cause discoloration in Japanese maple tree foliage, although in most cases this will present as brown or black splotches at the tips of the leaves rather than green. Additionally, if a Japanese maple tree is still young and has not yet reached full maturity, new branches may produce green leaf growth rather than red.
Improper Fertilization Can Cause Red Maples To Turn Green
It might come as a surprise to the average at-home gardener, but fertilizer can impact more than your tree’s overall rate of growth. Specifically, the chemicals and minerals contained within certain fertilizers can impact not only your tree’s health but also its color.
One of the most common causes of red maple leaves turning green is a nutrient deficiency caused by inadequate fertilizer use; if you do not use enough fertilizer (or don’t fertilize frequently enough) your tree will not be receiving enough key nutrients, which in turn can impact the tree’s health and also cause the leaves to change color from red to green.
Manganese in particular is an important nutrient for Japanese maple trees (manganese in general is a very important micronutrient for plants, and is critical for chloroplast development as well as photosynthesis), and not getting enough of it can cause leaves to turn green or sometimes even yellow.
As such, it’s important to use fertilizers that are both appropriate for Japanese maples and that have all the necessary nutrients. We will provide you with some fertilizer recommendations a little later on in the article; we hope you find them helpful.
While Japanese maples are trees that typically thrive in conditions of full sun, environmental conditions involving too much heat can often have a detrimental effect.
Generally speaking, most Japanese maple trees do best in USDA Hardiness zones 5 through 8 (although there are some more delicate cultivars that prefer the more moderate temperature ranges of Zones 6 or 7 specifically).
If you see the leaves of your Japanese maple tree begin to turn pale green or curl in at the edges, it could be a sign that it is enduring too much heat or experiencing too much intense sun exposure.
If you have a Japanese red maple tree that isn’t currently red for whatever reason, you’re probably asking yourself not only ‘why isn’t my maple tree red?’ but also ‘how can I get my maple tree to turn red?’.
Since we’ve already gone over some potential causes for why your Japanese maple tree might turn green instead of red, we will now discuss some tips for encouraging red coloration in your tree’s foliage.
Mild Days And Cold Nights Can Cause Japanese Maples To Turn Red
Generally speaking, Japanese maple trees do best when grown in conditions ideal for their health and development. In most cases, this means that they will display their signature red foliage when there are mild days with plenty of sunlight (but not too much heat) and when there are slightly longer nights with cooler temperatures.
Since there is little you can do to actually control the weather, all you can really do is be patient and operate with the understanding that even if your Japanese maple tree has not turned red yet, it will most likely do so once the weather changes to the appropriate conditions; as discussed earlier, these weather changes normally occur in the autumn and winter months, so that is when you can expect to see more vibrant red and orange foliage appear.
Certain Fertilizers Can Promote Red Growth In Japanese Maples
While fully mature Japanese maple trees do not usually need fertilizer (since their root systems should be sufficiently developed by that point to take in plenty of nutrients on their own) in some cases the use of fertilizer can help promote more robust growth and development in your trees.
In the case of Japanese maples, it’s important to make sure you select an appropriately balanced fertilizer that contains all the important nutrients they need to remain healthy.
As discussed earlier, if your Japanese maple trees are not getting enough of key nutrients such as nitrogen and manganese, it could impact their overall health as well as their coloring. As such, it could be said that using proper fertilizers to keep your tree healthy can, by extension, also help promote that vivid red coloring which Japanese maple trees are known for.
If you are in the market for effective and well-balanced fertilizers for Japanese maple trees, consider purchasing products such as FoxFarm Happy Frog Japanese Maple Fertilizer or TreeHelp Premium Fertilizer for Japanese Maples. You might also consider consulting with a botanist who is knowledgeable about Japanese maples since they should be able to offer you further recommendations for the care of your trees.
Quick Recap
And there we have it!
To summarize:
Not all Japanese maple trees begin with red foliage; some begin with green leaves and only turn red in autumn, while other cultivars never turn red at all
In most cases, it is colder temperatures and shorter days that will trigger the color change from green to red; these conditions usually occur in fall or winter
The color change itself relates to the breakdown of the chlorophyll in the tree’s leaves, which leaves the brighter anthocyanins and carotenoids as the remaining visible pigments
Other triggers for a color change include certain types of damage as well as various nutrient deficiencies; since these types of color changes indicate that your tree is unwell, you should take steps to avoid them
When fertilizing your Japanese maple trees, it’s important to use a well-balanced fertilizer to ensure that your trees are getting all the key nutrients they need to remain healthy
When in doubt about the state of your Japanese maple tree, don’t hesitate to consult with an arborist, botanist, or Japanese maple tree specialist
You might also consider reaching out to an arborist who specializes in Japanese maple trees; they will be able to offer you reliable insight into all manner of things related to Japanese maple care, from watering to fertilizing to pruning.
References:
Deal, D. L., J. C. Raulston, and L. E. Hinesley. “Leaf color retention, dark respiration, and growth of red-leafed Japanese maples under high night temperatures.” Journal of the American Society for Horticultural Science 115.1 (1990): 135-140.
Douglas, Sharon M. “Verticillium wilt of ornamental trees and shrubs.” The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station (2008)
Hansen, Sheriden M., Jaydee Gunnell, and Andra Emmertson. “Maples in the Landscape.” (2021): 1.
Niemiera, A. X. (2009). Japanese maple. Virginia Cooperative Extension.
Phillips, G. (2003, December 17). Culture and propagation of Japanese maple. VTechWorks Home.
Schmitzer, Valentina, et al. “Phase change modifies anthocyanin synthesis in Acer palmatum Thunb.(Japanese maple) cultivars.” Acta physiologiae plantarum 31.2 (2009): 415-418.
Overall cacti are slow-growing plants. This is because they grow densely, the soil they live in doesn’t have much nutrition, and there is very litter water in most desert landscapes.
That being said, there are a few exceptions as some cacti grow relatively fast.
Some of the fastest-growing cacti in the world include the Peruvian apple cactus which can grow 2 to 4 feet per year and the blue myrtle cactus which may grow up to 3 feet per year.
By most plant standards, this growth can be a lot, but for a cactus, this growth rate is quite exceptional!
In general, most cactus plants only grow about an inch per year. However, some cacti can grow to towering heights even though they grow so little year after year. This is because many cacti—like trees—can live for hundreds of years.
What Are Cacti?
Cacti are succulent, flowering, perennial plants that have herbaceous trunks and stems, and generally don’t have broad leaves. They usually have sharp, thin spines or barbs that are actually modified leaves.
Leaves are mostly absent from cacti because they can lose too much water. To perform food-producing photosynthesis, the cactus has chlorophyll-containing cells in the trunks and stems.
Cacti have hard-walled, waxy-coated, succulent stems that store water and perform photosynthesis. They have spines instead of leaves which lose a lot of water because it evaporates quickly through them.
Most cactus species have shallow, wide-ranging roots that are able to absorb superficial moisture. They range in size from small, stumpy balls, to imposing giants such as the iconic-looking saguaro cacti.
Where Do Cacti Grow?
Most cacti live in dry arid deserts but there are some that actually live in tropical and subtropical areas. Cactus plants can be found as far north as British Columbia and Alberta Canada, and as far south as Chile and Argentina.
Cacti and some succulents are native to North, Central, and South America. They can be found from Canada to the bottom edge of South America. Cacti and many succulents are native to the new world and can be found from Canada’s plains to the southern tip of South America.
To find the largest variety of cacti, head to Mexico, as this country has the most different species. A few species of cacti can be found in Madagascar, Sri Lanka, and East Africa.
The desert has more than just cacti! If you want to learn more about desert plant life, take a look at our article on 12 trees that can grow in the desert.
What Kind Of Cacti Are Native To The US?
If you live on the eastern side of the United States, you have probably seen the prickly pear cactus. This is one of the few native cacti found in the lower 48 states. Most of the other species are native to the lower, western states.
The prickly pear cactus is a low-growing, mounding cactus that has large, flat, “paddles,” covered in long, thick spines. They produce green or purple edible fruits that you may find in some grocery stores.
There are nearly 200 different species of cactus in the United States, but most of them live in six western states. Cacti you might find in the western desert states include the organ pipe cactus, the tall saguaro cactus, the cholla (pronounced choy-ya) cactus, and different species of barrel cactus.
Which Cacti Will Grow The Fastest?
There are some cacti that grow so slowly you may not notice that they’ve grown at all for years. While this can be fun for some gardeners, I personally like to grow plants to see them increase in size, thrive, and sometimes, multiply.
Below, we have included 9 of the fastest-growing cacti and where you can grow them in your yard!
Fastest Growing Cacti
CACTUS
GROWTH PER YEAR
MATURE SIZE (H X L)
STATES IT WILL GROW
SOIL TYPE
1. Argentine Saguaro
Also known as the cardon grande cactus or by the scientific name Echinopsis terscheckii, this fast-growing cactus can tower up to 25 feet tall, and grow 6 to 8 feet wide. It looks very similar to the typical saguaro, but they don’t get as large.
The Argentine Saguaro can be kept in a pot but it will only grow as large as the pot allows. The great outdoors is where these cacti shine and reach their full potential. Given plenty of sunlight and ample water and fertilizer this cactus can grow up to 18 inches per year.
Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix is a fertilizer-fortified, fast-draining soil mix great for your cacti. It can be used in pots or in the ground where you need better drainage.
In the summer, this cactus grows a profusion of white flowers that bloom at night. Moths and bats may visit the flowers to drink the nectar. The flowers will usually last most of the day before shriveling up and falling off.
Like all cacti, this one needs very well-draining soil but it can be watered a little bit more often than most cacti prefer. Be sure to plant this cactus in full sun.
The Argentine Saguaro does best in Zones 8 to 11 and is only cold hardy to 18° F.
These majestic cacti make amazing focal pieces. Put it in a prominent spot in your yard and then landscape a beautiful desert-like oasis around it.
2. Pereskia Or Rose Cactus
The Pereskia is a tropical plant that doesn’t look so much like a cactus. It has leaves and black or brown spines and grows more like a shrub, but it is a true cactus. These cacti are native to the West Indies and southeastern South America.
Also called the rose cactus, Pereskia grow two to three feet per year, with the fastest growth in their first year or two. They can get up to 20 feet tall, but typically top out around 5 to 7 feet tall.
The rose cactus blooms in the summer and produces pink or purplish-pink flower clusters followed by small pear-shaped fruits.
It’s hardy in Zones 10 to 11 and likes organic, well-draining soil. This cactus—because of its tropical nature—prefers a little bit more water than typical cacti. Water it when the soil dries out, and let it stay drier in the winter months.
They can withstand cold temperatures down to 25° F. Anything below that and the rose cactus may not survive.
This tall growing plant makes a great focal piece. Be sure to give it plenty of sunlight as they need full sun.
3. Blue Column Cactus
Another fast-growing cactus that can reach heights of up to 30 feet tall, this cactus is usually blue or grey in color instead of green. It’s a very popular cactus among nurseries and garden centers. Yellow spines compliment the bluish stems.
Pilosocereus pachycladus can grow a foot to 2 feet per year. Straight from the nursery, this cactus is usually a singular stalk, but given time it can grow more stalks and even produce tube-shaped flowers.
These cacti prefer desert conditions. They like it sunny, need sandy, very well-draining soil, and only want to be watered when the dirt has dried out.
The blue-column cactus comes from Mexico and South America and prefers temperatures at or above 70° F. They can even withstand temps when they climb into the triple digits, but they don’t like to be cold. Frost will be the end of pilosocereus.
Try not to let it get below 50° F. Zones 9 to 11 are the best zones for this heat-loving plant. Plant this cactus outside only if you have very warm winters. Otherwise, you might want to keep it contained in a pot so you can move it inside when it gets cold.
4. Walkingstick Cactus
Other names include the spiny cholla, cane cholla, or cylindropuntia spinosior. These spiny cacti can grow 3 to 5 feet tall and wide. They have thin stems that grow faster than most other cacti.
They can be from greyish-green to purple and can sprout red, yellow, or white flowers. The walkingstick cholla cactus blooms from late spring to early summer.
They require plenty of bright sunlight and a well-draining, sandy soil. They benefit from watering about once a week during the summer, but let the soil dry out. In the winter they only need very little water, but they are cold hardy up to -20°F.
The walkingstick cactus will grow in Zones 5 through 11.
It’s Not The Same Cholla
You may have heard of the jumping cactus or jumping cholla. You know, that insidious cactus that seems to attack hikers in the desert with scores of spine-covered knobs. That dangerous plant is called the teddy bear cholla.
Sometimes called the “most dangerous plant in America,” the teddy bear cholla doesn’t actually jump at you, but if you get close enough to brush up against one, you’ll never forget it.
It will send needle-sharp spines into you that are difficult and painful to remove. The spines are so springy that they can bounce back onto you. This characteristic gives the segments the appearance of jumping at you.
They also have multiple backward-pointing barbs on the spines that make it feel like you’re pulling out fish hooks.
The walkingstick cholla is related but does not have the same habit. Parts of the plant can break off when it’s disturbed, but the spines usually are not as long and are definitely not springy.
Give this cactus plenty of room. The joints can be fragile and will fall off when it’s disturbed. You don’t want to be digging underneath it and have one fall off and land on your back. It would make a great specimen or focal piece in your landscape.
5. Pereskiopsis
These plants look more like succulents than cacti. Though technically cacti are succulents, not all succulents are cacti.
Pereskiopsis is another tropical cactus that prefers humidity and rich, organic soil instead of a dry, sandy growing medium. When potting these plants you should use about three parts organic potting mix, with a one-part mixture of perlite, gravel, pumice, and sand.
These cacti are heavy feeders, and like more moisture than typical cacti, but they still don’t like wet roots. If the soil isn’t draining well, root rot could set it.
Hardy in Zones 10 and 11, these plants can only handle temperatures down to 35°F.
These cacti almost never flower, and even in the wild rarely ever produce seeds. They do take very well to cuttings, however. Many owners end up with several pots of these plants when they learn how easy it is to propagate them.
Pereskiopsis is the fastest-growing cactus as it can grow up to a foot or more per month! Some people have reported 5 to 6 inches of growth in a single week.
You may have more planting options with this type of cactus as there are more varieties of plants that prefer a richer soil. But you may want to keep these cacti contained to a pot or border as they can easily take over.
6. Peruvian Apple Cactus
Cereus peruvianus is a fast-growing, very tall cactus that is often spineless. It’s called the Peruvian apple cactus because of the oval-shaped, edible, purple fruits that grow on the stems.
The fruit is said to resemble the inside of a dragon fruit with a soft, sweet, creamy texture with crunchy seeds.
This cactus can get very tall (up to 30 feet) and spreads out by growing more long stems up into the sky. Some of the stems can grow to a width of 8 inches in diameter.
Long, thin flower buds shoot directly off the tall stems, and the flowers open up at night. In the wild, bats often visit these flowers for a drink of nectar.
Native to South America, this cactus prefers a very sandy soil and infrequent watering, along with plenty of sunlight. Plant this cactus in an area with exceptional drainage and full sun.
They are hardy in zones 8 to 11 and reduce watering in the winter. For your hard work, these cacti will grow up to 2 to 4 feet per year.
These cacti are definitely a focal piece because of how big they can get. If you’re planning on harvesting the fruits, place them in your backyard. When people realize how tasty these fruits are, you might find some missing.
7. Mexican Fence Post Cactus
Pachycereus marginatus resembles pipe organ cacti except they don’t get quite as large, though they can still reach up to 20 feet tall. They produce columnar trunks that look similar to fence posts.
Some gardeners cultivate this cactus to make a living fence because of their grouping, and upright growing habit.
Native to Mexico, and more accurately the states of Hidalgo, Queretaro, and Guanajuato, this cactus can grow up to 3 feet a year. In the spring the Mexican fence post cactus sprouts pink to red flowers followed by yellow, orange, or red fruits.
The Mexican fence post cactus is drought tolerant and prefers sandy soil. Let the ground dry out before watering it again and this easygoing cactus will last years for you.
It’s hardy to 25°F and will grow outside in zones 9 to 11.
These cacti would look great as a backdrop to smaller plants or do your own living fence. Put it against an already existing fence so you don’t have to do as much weed trimming.
8. Blue Myrtle Cactus
Myrtillocactus geometrizans is an odd little cactus. It starts out growing like most typical cacti by sprouting a single columnar stem, but as it ages it grows more shrublike. Often people describe it as looking like a candelabra.
At full height, they can get up to 16 feet tall, and just as wide or wider depending on how many branches they sprout. While they grow well outside, this cactus takes well to indoor life very well.
They are really great for those who have never cared for a cactus before, as they are quite forgiving. It needs plenty of light and loves the heat.
You may see white flowers in the spring, but they only last a day before dropping off. The good news is after they flower, they produce little edible fruits that are often eaten in Mexico where they are from.
The blue myrtle cactus will grow in zones 9 to 11 but won’t handle temperatures below 25°F. You need well-draining, sandy soil, and only need to water them when the soil is nice and dry.
They can be propagated by cuttings. Cut a stem close to the junction, then allow it to dry out for 2 to 3 weeks. Next, put the cutting in a sandy soil and water it once.
Wait for the soil to dry completely before watering again, and repeat this process. Keep it in a warm place with plenty of indirect sunlight, or partial shade until it is established and shows signs of new growth.
9. Silver Torch Cactus
Native to Bolivia and Argentina, the silver torch cactus looks like a fur-covered plant. This cactus grows a little slower than many of our other contenders on this list, but can still manage around 6 inches per year.
Fully grown the silver torch cactus can reach up to 10 feet in length. Though they’re covered in silvery hair, they still have sharp spines all along their length.
To add to the visual interest, this cactus (Cleistocactus strausii) may produce magenta-colored flowers in late spring through early summer.
Drought tolerant, the silver torch requires plenty of sunlight and a well-draining soil. Water it when the soil dries out during the summer, but scale back the water in the winter. They are cold-tolerant to the mid-20s and grow well in zones 9 to 11.
These cacti can make great focal pieces or work well to contrast smaller cactus plants. With the showy, fibrous hairs, it’s a great conversation starter.
Which Cacti Should I Plant In My Yard?
What kind of yard do you have and what are you looking for in a cactus? Do you have a large area with very sandy soil? Or is your yard a low-lying area that often has pools of water after the rain?
Most cacti will quickly root rot in thick, loamy, clay soils. You’ll need to add a lot of sand, gravel, or other soil amendments for yards that have heavy, moisture-rich areas. You may opt for container gardens if your soil is heavy.
Are you looking for a large focal piece, or would you rather have a small desert garden to add visual appeal? Do you have a big yard or a small plot? Here are a few options for planting cacti in your yard.
Fast-Growing Cacti For Focal Points
The cactus that will definitely be a conversation piece and an amazing sight would be the Argentine Saguaro. Similar to the mammoth saguaro, but not quite as big, these will definitely add a Southwestern vibe to your yard.
You’ll need a large area for this cactus to truly shine but it’s definitely a stunning piece once it’s mature.
Other, stunning individual specimens would include the Mexican fence cactus, Peruvian apple, and blue myrtle. These cacti can be amazing stand-alone specimens.
The walking stick cholla can make for an amazing focal piece as well, but I personally like the look of these with a few other, smaller cacti near it.
Which Cacti Work Well In Small Gardenscapes?
Most of these cacti will stay small if you keep them confined to pots. Creating a desert garden with various-sized cacti in different pots can look like a masterpiece.
But, if you want to grow several of these specimens together you still can do so. You’ll end up doing some trimming to keep some of these giants in check though.
Try putting up a few walking stick cholla, silver torch, and pereskiopsis together for an interesting cactus garden. You’ll have to divide the soil or put the pereskiopsis in a pot though because they like more moisture and more organic matter in their soil.
Use Your Imagination
You aren’t limited to these cacti only. There are hundreds of other, slower-growing varieties that will complement these fast growers. The prickly pear cactus can grow nearly anywhere and makes a great border.
There are dozens of barrel cacti that grow low to the ground and look like prickly balloons. These will compliment the tall, columnar cactus and help to fill in the lower areas of your garden.
If you are landscaping in the desert, you aren’t limited to just cacti! Check out our article on the 12 fastest growing desert trees for more ideas.
That’s A Wrap!
On the whole, cacti are slow-growing succulents. This is because they don’t receive much water, and the moisture they do get, they hold onto it like a leprechaun guarding his lucky charms. They also live in areas with very little nutrients in the soil.
The cacti included in this article are relatively fast-growing, so you won’t have to wait decades to notice new growth. They can be grown indoors or out, but they will live much longer with the proper care in an outdoor habitat.
So, get out there and grow some cacti. They’re no longer just for Arizona.
References
Hernández‐Hernández, Tania, et al. “Beyond aridification: multiple explanations for the elevated diversification of cacti in the New World Succulent Biome.” New phytologist 202.4 (2014): 1382-1397.
Fleming, Theodore H., and Alfonso Valiente-Banuet, eds. Columnar cacti and their mutualists: evolution, ecology, and conservation. University of Arizona Press, 2002.
Bobich, Edward G., and Park S. Nobel. “Vegetative reproduction as related to biomechanics, morphology and anatomy of four cholla cactus species in the Sonoran Desert.” Annals of Botany 87.4 (2001): 485-493.
When the temperatures start to get colder outside and the leaves fall from the deciduous trees in the late fall, you might look around and feel saddened by the bare branches only to see a spot of green standing out on a wintery day. It’s a pine tree!
Pine trees are hardy and easy to grow, so there are many choices for places to plant them, as they do well in many different types of environments.
You can plant pine trees indoors or outdoors, in containers or in the ground!
Read on for all the info you need to choose a pine tree, choose the best place to plant it, and plant it well so it will grow healthy and strong for years to come.
To get started, let’s take a look at some different types of pine trees and the purposes they might serve.
The Difference Between Pine, Fir, And Spruce Trees
Before you get ready to choose a pine tree, you might want to make sure it is actually a pine tree. It is easy to mistake fir or spruce trees for pines, or you might think that firs and spruces are types of pine trees.
But, in fact, pine trees are in a different group from fir trees, which are in a different group from spruce trees; all three belong in their own category.
To tell these three kinds of trees apart, you can start with the needles, as pine, spruce, and fir trees actually all have different types of needles.
Here are some specific characteristics of different kinds of conifers, including pine trees, spruce trees, and fir trees.
Characteristics Of Pine Trees
Pine needles can be distinguished first by their shape, as they are slender. Pine tree needles are also gathered into groups of three or five, and the group is wrapped up at the base like a little pine needle bouquet.
The cones of pine trees appear in clusters. They also have very large scales in comparison to other conifers.
Pine trees can be found all over the globe, which means you can easily find one to add to your own tree collection.
These evergreen trees are, just as their name suggests, always green, and they make a great addition to yards that are in need of some life and color throughout the winter months.
The first defining feature of a spruce tree is also its needles.
Spruce needles, unlike those of a pine tree, is not gathered into groups but rather each needle attaches to the branch of the spruce tree on its own via a pulvinus, which looks sort of like a peg.
Spruce trees have branches that have some space between them, especially when compared to the branch density of a fir tree.
They also have rather short needles that are pointy on the ends.
Characteristics Of Fir Trees
The needs of the fir tree are, like the pine and spruce, the easiest way to distinguish this tree from others that seem similar at first glance.
Fir needles are not in groups like pine needles, but they differ from spruce needles in that they do not attach to the branch with pegs.
As a result, the branches of a fir tree feel smooth when the needles fall, unlike spruce trees, which, because of the left-behind pegs, have bumpy branches when needles fall.
Fir Trees Look Most Like Christmas Trees
While you might think of pine trees when you think about Christmas trees, it is actually fir trees that perhaps look the most like the iconic shape of a traditional Christmas tree.
This means they are very wide at the bottom and narrow as the branches move up the trunk. The branches are grouped very closely together, and they turn up.
Another distinguishing feature of the fir tree is that crushed fir needles have a bit of a citrus smell, so that might be one particularly fun feature during the holidays!
A Quick Reference For The Differences Between Pines, Firs, And Spruces
To quickly glance at some information to tell pines, firs, and spruces apart from each other, you can use the table below.
Though they are evergreen trees, all of them lose needles at some point.The timeframe in which they do that is one distinguishing feature that varies between pines, firs, and spruces.
Pine
Fir
Spruce
Needles
Slender, clustered in groups of 2, 3, or 5
Soft, flat
Sharp, pointed, square
Needle Attachment
Groups attach to branch with pegs
Needles attach individually with pegs
Needles attach individually without pegs
Needle Drop
Needles drop after 1-3 years
Needles drop after 2 – 4 years
Needles drop after 4 – 10 years
Now you can tell these types of conifers apart, so you can decide what type of tree you want to plant. If you are interested in planting a spruce tree, make sure to check out our article 5 Best Places To Plant A Spruce Tree (And How To Do It).
Next we will examine some different types of not just conifers but, specifically, pine trees, as there are a lot of different types of pine trees to choose from when you get ready to plant one in your yard.
Get To Know The Different Types Of Pine Trees
Just as there are different types of conifers, there are also different types of pine trees. You should consider the various types before choosing one for your home, as they can vary greatly in size, shape, and purpose. Some are used for decoration and some for lumber.
Some are mostly found in large forests, while some are used frequently for indoor purposes like as Christmas trees.
Whatever the purpose that best suits you, here are some common types of pine trees to consider and some to avoid.
Scots Pine
The Scots pine, or Scottish pine tree, is formally called pinus sylvestris. Sometimes grown as Christmas trees, these majestic pine trees are, as their name indicates, very common in the country of Scotland. The Scots pine is, in fact, Scotland’s national tree.
Scots pines were brought to America from Europe during the early colonial period. Now, they grow in many areas of the United States and southern parts of Canada. The tree’s natural origins are in Scotland and Scandinavia.
Scots pine is a good pick for a yard with a lot of space, as these trees can grow to be about sixty feet tall and as many as forty feet wide.
If you’re looking for an iconic and majestic tree, and you have a lot of room, the Scots pine can be a statement piece that lasts for a very long time, as these trees live for as long as a staggering 700 years.
Eastern White Pine
The Eastern white pine tree is very popular in North America. It is used not only to look at but also for lumber.
These pine trees are very hardy and they grow very quickly, so you might consider this tree if you are in a hurry to provide some shade or privacy in your yard.
But keep in mind that the Eastern white pine grows to be very large; it can grow to be up to 150 feet, which is super huge, so you might not want to plant that in your yard.
But to plant something smaller that is similar, you might consider the next tree on our list.
Western White Pine
This tree, very similar to the Eastern white pine, differs in that it is much larger than an Eastern white pine, so this tree might be better suited to your yard if you do not have a lot of space for your new tree.
The Western white pine only grows to a maximum height of about 100 feet.
That is still super tall, of course, but it might work in your yard if you have a lot of space or can plant far from your house.
Sugar Pine
This is a tricky one to grow in a yard, especially near your house, as it is the tallest of all pine trees. Some sugar pines grow to be as tall as 250 feet.
The cones of this tree are so big that they can sometimes be two feet long.
For these reasons, it is very uncommon to see a sugar pine in someone’s yard, but if you have a large plot of land and are looking to fill your forest, this might be a good choice to plant a number of.
Red Pine
If you are looking to plant a pretty tree that does well in yards and gardens, look no further than the red pine.
This tree is tall, but it still works well in yards. Red pine trees live for a very long time, and they have red bark, which is how they earned their name.
This tree is well-suited to dry climates, so this is one to consider if you live in a part of the country that does not get much rain or snow.
Virginia Pine
If you want to grow a pine tree that might one day end up decorated in your living room at Christmas time, consider the Virginia pine, which is often used for just that purpose.
Confusingly, another name for the Virginia pine is “spruce pine.”
The Virginia pine is a classic pine tree with an iconic look, so if you are hoping for a quintessential pine tree in your yard, this might be the right tree for you to plant.
So, Where Should You Plant A Pine Tree?
Now that you have considered some types of pine trees and have decided on which one to add to your yard, it’s time to consider where exactly you are going to plant it.
It is best to think about this and make plans before you purchase your pine sapling, to give you enough time to make the best decision while keeping your young tree healthy.
1. Planting Your Pine Tree As Part Of A Collection Of Trees
Pine trees have been found to produce more needles when they are closer to other trees, which may be because they need more needles to compete with other trees for light. But this is not necessarily a good case for planting them close together.
You are likely better off with trees that do not have to compete with other trees, so space your pine tree accordingly from other pines or any other type of tree.
Aim to plant your pine tree at least 8 feet away from other trees. If you are planting multiple pine trees at once, see our below tips for planting your pine trees in a tree line.
2. Planting A Pine Tree In Full Sun
It seems that pine trees don’t gather as many nutrients in the summer as they do in other months.
This is probably different from what you are used to with other trees in your yard, but remember that, no matter the time of year, all trees need sunlight.
Pine trees, like many other types of trees, love full sunlight, so it is advantageous to plant your pine tree somewhere that gets a lot of sun all day long, especially in the morning.
If you have a spot that receives sun all day long from sunrise to sunset, that is even better. Try to find a good space for your tree that allows it to soak up the sun’s rays all day long.
You might think of shade trees as the more leafy variety like oak trees or maple trees, but pine trees can actually provide a great deal of shade, and they can do so all year long, unlike other types of trees that lose their leaves every fall.
To use a pine tree as a shade tree, first, consider the area of your yard or house that you want to shade.
You can scout this in advance of planting by simply observing your yard throughout the day to see where the sun falls and where the shade is needed.
Choose to do this on a sunny day, as any level of cloudiness could obscure the exact amount of sun or shade you are trying to achieve.
4. Planting A Pine Tree To Use As A Christmas Tree
This is a great idea if you enjoy having a live Christmas tree each year and you have a lot of space to start your own mini Christmas tree farm.
This method requires a lot of space, as you need to space your pine trees about 8 feet apart and, depending on how many years of Christmas trees you want to plant, you need to plant several trees.
A pine tree takes about 25 years to mature enough to be used for lumber, but you can use a pine tree as a Christmas tree as soon as it reaches the height you are trying to achieve.
If, for example, you want to grow pine trees to work as Christmas trees in your house with 9-foot ceilings, you probably want a pine tree that is about 8 feet tall. After all, you need room for the star!
This means that you will be able to harvest your first Christmas tree, depending on how big your sapling is, in about six years or even less.
And once you cut down one of your precious trees and bring it inside, keep its branches looking fresh throughout the season with a helpful product like Perfect Plants Christmas Tree Saver, which is like plant food for trees that have already been cut.
5. Planting Pine Trees As A Treeline Fence
Pine trees can work great as treelines for property privacy, but this usually works best on very large pieces of property.
If you are trying to achieve even dense coverage, make sure to plant your trees several feet apart so they don’t have to compete with each other for sunlight and nutrients.
You can plant the trees in a straight line or you can stagger them a bit back and forth; it just depends on how you want your treeline to look.
6. Planting A Pine Tree In A Container
If none of these seem like good options for your yard, but you still want to grow a pine tree, you can certainly grow one, or at least start to grow one, in a container.
This is a good option for people who are not sure where their pine tree’s permanent home may be, or for people who are planning to move in the next several years and would like to take their pine tree with them.
To plant a tree in a container (and this applies to any tree, not just a pine tree), you should start with a container that is significantly larger than the root ball of the tree.
For more information, read our article on the best soils and care tips for a container pine tree!
Things To Keep In Mind When Moving The Tree
Moving trees puts them at risk for shock, and you want to give your tree as much time as possible to acclimate to the container as it matures before you have to move it.
When you plant a tree in a container, you give yourself the benefit of being able to move the tree around (you can achieve this most easily by putting the container on a rolling plant stand) or being able to control the amount of light and water the tree receives.
Planting a container tree is very similar to planting a tree in the ground. The basic steps are to cover the root ball with dirt, water the tree thoroughly, and make sure it is set up for the right amount of light and the right temperature.
Some Fun Ways To Use A Pine Tree That Is In A Container
Pine trees are very decorative, and they stay that way mostly year-round, so they have myriad uses.
Many people like to use container pine trees as outdoor Christmas trees to decorate their front porches in the winter, complete with lights, bows, and even ornaments.
You can also use container pine trees as decor for a patio or gazebo outdoors.
Container trees are particularly easy to shape into desired looks, so you can make them look like topiaries or Christmas trees, depending on the aesthetic you want to achieve.
How To Successfully Plant A Pine Tree
Planting a pine tree is not very different from planting any other type of tree.
Here, we break down the steps so you can feel confident that you have set your tree up for success from day one, plus if you are looking for more tips, make sure to head on over to our article about sunlight and planting tips for pine trees!
Digging The Hole For Your Pine Tree
Once you have chosen the right location for your pine tree, the first step in planting it is to dig the hole you will plant the tree.
Clear away any debris, weeds, rocks, etc., and then dig a hole that is about twice the size of the root ball of your new pine tree.
Don’t use fertilizer when you first plant your tree. Give it a year or so to adjust to its new home.
Once you have dug the hole, it’s time to actually plant the tree.
Planting The Pine Tree
Gently place the pine tree in the hole you have dug, testing that the hole is deep enough to cover the whole root ball but not much deeper.
Replace the soil without packing it in at first.
Once you have covered the root ball so that the soil is even with the surrounding ground, pat gently until the dirt is packed in. Then replace more dirt as needed.
Water And Mulch For Your New Pine Tree
Once the tree is planted, water it thoroughly with a garden hose, it is so important to water your pine tree, and to keep watering it throughout the winter! For more information on why and how to do this, head on over to our article about watering your pine tree in the winter!
Once the ground is well saturated, you can place mulch, which will help the soil around your pine tree retain moisture.
Now you are ready to enjoy your new pine tree!
Some Closing Tips On Growing Pine Trees
Keep in mind that needles, though they are evergreen, do sometimes change color and naturally fall from the trees. This is completely normal and even a way to enjoy fall colors from trees that are not deciduous.
The best time of year to plant a pine tree is in the fall, so try to get your tree in the ground sometime in October or maybe early November.
This way, you avoid planting the tree in the hot summer months when it will have to withstand extreme conditions of heat, sun, and potentially dryness, and you avoid planting it in the frigid cold of the winter. Fall is ideal.
Lastly, remember that, if you live in a very dry climate, you may still need to water your tree yourself and not rely entirely upon rain.
That’s A Wrap!
Now you are ready to choose a pine tree, choose a spot to plant it, and plant your tree that you can enjoy for years to come.
Enjoy your new evergreen addition to your yard!
References
Fife, D. N., & Nambiar, E. K. S. (1982). Accumulation and retranslocation of mineral nutrients in developing needles in relation to seasonal growth of young radiata pine trees. Annals of Botany, 50(6), 817-829.
Nilsson, U., & Albrektson, A. (1993). Productivity of needles and allocation of growth in young Scots pine trees of different competitive status. Forest Ecology and Management, 62(1-4), 173-187.
There’s not much that’s better than sitting under a shady tree on a warm summer day. The leaves make a pleasant rustle as a cool breeze trickles by, and the warm rays of the sun dapple the ground. What’s not easy is picking the right shade tree for your backyard.
Generally, easy to plant shade trees for your backyard should be fast-growing, hardy, and offer plenty of shade.
Trees such as the tulip tree, linden tree, various oaks, and sycamore trees check those boxes! You don’t want a tree that makes a mess, has invasive roots or can be felled by a slight breeze.
While there are literally hundreds of trees you can choose from, not all of them make great shade trees. Even though they are sold at the nursery, it doesn’t mean they are well-behaved trees.
In this list, we have 11 easy-to-plant shade trees that require very little maintenance once they are established, and won’t become a nuisance.
1. Tulip Trees Are The Fast-Growing Giant
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
Best Soil Type
Moist, well-drained. Hardy once established
Average Height
70 to 80’ tall
Average Spread
40 to 50’ wide
When you have a lot of open space and you’re looking for a tree that can drop some shade quickly, the tulip tree has you covered. Sometimes called tulip poplar, yellow poplar, or whitewood, this tree is actually in the family of magnolia trees.
These trees are so named because of the light yellow or orange, to cream-colored flowers they produce that look much like the popular spring bulbs.
In the spring, these flowers create an interesting contrast against the broad, dark green leaves.
These trees attract plenty of birds, squirrels, and pollinators. You’ll help out the local ecology when you plant these trees.
Tulip Poplars Grow Quickly And Get Big
Tulip trees can grow over two feet per year, meaning in ten years, you’ll have a tree that’s over 20 feet tall. They will keep this incredible growth rate for most of their lives. You’ll need a lot of space for these trees though because they can get quite tall.
These trees usually grow to 70 or 80 feet tall with a wide canopy that can stretch out over 50 feet.
They have shallow roots that can be difficult to mow around and can make it challenging to plant under them.
But we understand wanting a tree with which roots won’t be a problem! Head on over to our article about shade trees that won’t give you root problems, to help you find find the right tree for you!
Tulip Trees Are Very Low Maintenance
The tulip tree grows with a single trunk and many branches that shoot off the main trunk. Because of this habit, it won’t require much in the way of trimming. The most you’ll have to do is just trim off dried-up, no longer viable limbs.
Tulip poplars are also very healthy trees. Most insects and illnesses don’t bother messing with these giants.
With that comes one exception, aphids.
Aphids Are Problematic For Tulip Trees
Aphids like to attack tulip trees, but they rarely do much damage. The tree is such a quick-growing and strong tree that it can easily shrug off an aphid infestation and grow back better the next year.
The biggest problem you’ll have from the aphids is the honeydew they drop as they are feeding.
The aphids can cause tiny, sticky droplets to fall everywhere underneath the tree’s canopy.
Uses For Tulip Tree Lumber
During the United States’ early, formative years, the tulip tree was used by pioneers to build houses and barns.
Now, these trees are mostly used for plywood, timber, furniture, and cabinets to name a few uses.
Where To Plant Tulip Trees
As we have already established, tulip trees get massive. You won’t want to plant these trees in most urban settings. You will need to give the tulip tree plenty of space so it can spread without competition.
Keep it away from fences, outbuildings, and of course your house. You’ll also have to pick a nice sunny spot because these trees are sun lovers. When they grow with other trees, they try to shoot up past all the others, if they don’t they will end up suffering and becoming unhealthy.
2. Linden Trees Are Great For Honey And Bees
Hardiness Zones
3 to 8
Best Soil Type
Prefers well-drained moist soil but tolerates most soil types
Average Height
50 to 60 feet
Average Spread
20 to 40 feet
Linden trees have been popular trees in landscapes for many years.
When these trees are planted in urban neighborhoods, they fill the streets with a sweet perfume in early summer.
Many species of these trees have romantic-looking heart-shaped leaves. Pair these leaves with the fragrant flowers and you have a wonderful summer picnic tree.
Bees Love Linden Trees
In the wild, when linden trees reach the end of their lifecycle, the hollows are often filled with honeybees and heavy combs filled with sweet honey.
Bees also love flowers because of how much nectar they can gather from the large trees. Even lumber is often used to make the frames for beehives.
Linden Tree flowers are also used in the perfume industry and can make delicious tea. Check out Buddha Teas Organic Linden Tea for a floral, sweet-tasting tea that’s as relaxing as chamomile.
To sweeten your linden tea, try out Breitsamer Honig Linden Raw Honey. This honey is light, very sweet, and may have hints of peppermint hiding in its unique bouquet. Use this linden flower honey to sweeten your teas and pastries, or simply load it onto warm, freshly baked bread.
Linden Trees Can Tolerate Tough Conditions
These trees grow so well in urban landscapes because they can tolerate the most punishing conditions once established.
They love moist, well-draining soil, but as long as they are cared for during the first year or two after planting, they can grow well in poor soil, and deal with plenty of pollution.
They are medium to large trees, growing up to 60 feet tall and spreading up to 40 feet wide, but they can be trimmed to maintain compact growth.
The wood and branches are tough and springy meaning they tolerate even the strongest of winds. Linden trees, even though they grow pretty large, rarely fall over or lose branches in heavy storms.
More Benefits To Linden Trees
These trees can grow from 18 to 24 inches in a year. You’ll end up with a strong, fragrant, hardy shade tree in a few years.
The linden tree doesn’t have a super dense canopy. It actually lets in a little bit of sunlight, enough to let some grasses grow without a problem.
If you don’t want to worry about what can grow underneath your trees, the linden tree lets you grow shady grasses easily.
There aren’t many pests that bother the linden tree once it’s established.
You may have to deal with Japanese beetles when the tree is young, and aphids tend to like the linden tree. These pests are relatively easy to deal with, and once the tree is a few years old, it can handle these insects without problems.
The linden tree puts on a bright yellow display in the fall. It’s a pretty tree in the spring, produces fragrant showy flowers in the summer, then produces a bright yellow show in autumn. This is one easy-to-grow shade tree that puts on a show three seasons out of four.
3. Sycamore Trees Has Unique Camouflage Bark
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
Best Soil Type
Rich, loamy soil
Average Height
40 to 100 feet
Average Spread
40 to 70 feet
The American sycamore tree can be found as far north as New Hampshire and Ontario, Canada, and as far south as Florida and Texas. Through western spread, you can find varieties of sycamore trees in Nebraska and even in states such as Arizona and New Mexico.
Other names for the American sycamore include American plane tree, buttonwood, and water beech. The most distinguishing features of this tree are the mottled camouflage-looking bark and the seed balls that hang on the tree until mid-winter.
When trees grow, the outer protective covering—the bark—has to stretch and fill in to keep the growing layers covered. On the American sycamore, the bark is unable to stretch, so it sloughs off in pieces and grows back. When it does this, it gives the tree its camouflaged look.
Older sycamores can grow into massive trees with wide trunks. The trunks on sycamores usually split into secondary trunks a few feet above the ground, with branches and leaves high up.
They can grow up to 70 to 100 feet tall, with a spread from 60 feet to 80 feet wide under optimal conditions.
Sycamore’s wide leaves look similar to sugar maple leaves, and some varieties of this tree drop the “whirligig” seed pods called samaras. This is because the sycamore is a genus from the maple tree family.
A Sycamore Tree Is Perfect If You Have A Lot Of Space
If you have a large space needing a ton of shade, the sycamore tree may be the one for you.
Sycamore trees usually grow up to two feet per year under ideal conditions and can live for hundreds of years.
If you plant one of these trees in your yard, it will be there for generations.
Cool Shade With A Habitat For Wildlife
If you love to watch wildlife, then you should plant a few sycamore trees. These trees support an abundance of birds, beneficial insects, and other wildlife.
Many birds including chickadees, finches, and dark-eyed juncos eat sycamore seeds. Other birds that like to frequent these trees include the large pileated woodpecker and barred owls. These two big birds eat pests like mice and harmful insects.
Being that sycamore trees are related to maple trees, they produce a sweet sap that many woodpeckers enjoy.
Along with the seed and insect-eating birds, you’ll probably end up with numerous woodpeckers as well.
Sycamore Trees Attract Insects As Well
Sycamore trees tend to attract aphids, but this also brings in aphid predators such as ladybugs and hoverflies.
Hoverflies look and sometimes act like wasps, but they are harmless, and actually are beneficial insects.
Of course, squirrels love sycamore trees too. They will nest in the hollows, and eat the seeds, so if you love watching the antics of these acrobatic critters, you’ll get plenty of enjoyment as they skitter through the mass of leaves and branches.
You’ll Need Lots Of Space For Sycamore Trees
These trees are often planted in residential areas along streets and in parks and recreation areas.
They are tolerant of pollution, wind, and poor, compacted soils, so they make great shade trees in areas where other trees would struggle.
These trees are also used to help control soil erosion and shore up hillsides and near wetlands. The wide, spreading roots help to anchor soil and hillsides.
They are often found in wetlands, so if you wanted to help control erosion near a stream or river, a sycamore might be the perfect tree.
Since they can become so large, they need a lot of space to truly spread out. You’ll want to make sure you don’t have any buildings, sidewalks, or septic systems nearby when you plant these trees. Their roots can extend well beyond the canopy and will raise sidewalks and walking paths, or clog septic drain lines.
Though if you have a wide open area that requires shade, or you’re having trouble keeping your soil from getting washed away every time it sprinkles, think about the sycamore.
Sycamore Pests And Problems
One insect that can cause damage and stress to even the mighty sycamore tree is the sycamore leaf beetle. It is a small, black, bumpy insect that often resembles animal droppings.
Often these insects don’t bother healthy sycamore trees, so if you happen to see these pests, it may be because your tree is already stressed.
Luckily, unless it’s a severe infestation, this nasty-looking bug doesn’t cause much harm to the tree. While they are feeding on the leaves, it can look unattractive, but they usually make a full comeback the next year.
Anthracnose Is A Common Sycamore Tree Problem
Sycamore anthracnose is a serious illness that can disfigure these trees.
Anthracnose is caused by a fungus that affects tree leaves. It usually spreads by wind and rain when infected spores are passed from one tree to another.
Anthracnose causes defoliation. The trees that contract this disease typically drop their leaves and grow new ones. Anthracnose shows up as damage to the veins of the leaves which can spread to small twigs. This can cause shoot blight and cankers along small branches.
Anthracnose fungus tends to break out when prolonged mild temperatures are met with a wet and rainy season. The fungus tends to clear up if the average daily temperature is above 60° F (15° C).
Sycamore Trees May Require Some Clean-Up
Since sycamore trees can get so large, they will drop a lot of leaves in the fall. These leaves can get rather large as well. Meaning if you typically bag up your leaves every fall, a sycamore tree is going to require a lot of extra raking time.
However, if you simply let the leaves decompose, or you mulch them into your yard, you’ll create some extra nutrients for these trees, which could help to keep them healthier.
You may want to wait until early spring or late winter before you start your clean-up of sycamore trees. The seed balls like to hang around until mid to late winter.
If you like to naturalize your landscape though, sycamore trees are beneficial trees to lots of wildlife.
4. Elm Trees Are Making A Comeback Across America
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
Best Soil Type
Tolerates most soils
Average Height
40 to 60 feet
Average Spread
30 to 50 feet
Early in the 20th century, millions of elm trees were planted across residential areas. Elm trees are fast-growing, shade trees that can tolerate nearly any soil condition, no matter how poor. They also seem to thrive along polluted streets while helping to clean the air.
By the 1960s, cities, and counties across America were tasked with removing sickly and failing elms because they were struck with a fatal fungus. Dutch elm disease was introduced by the European elm bark beetle when it crossed the ocean from infected trees.
For decades, elm trees seemed to be on the decline because of the one-two punch of beetle and fungus, but with the hybridization of the elm tree with resistant species, the American elm is making a comeback.
You can now find dozens of insect and fungus-resistant elm species at many nurseries!
Are Elm Trees Right For You?
Elm trees exemplify the “set it and forget it” mentality. Once you plant it in the ground, you can very nearly just sit back and watch it grow.
Elm trees can grow in nearly any soil condition. They will thrive in heavy clay soils, just as well as they will grow in sandy, fast-draining dirt. As long as they find ample water, these trees can grow up to six feet in a year!
In a very short time, and with very little maintenance you will have a large, robust shade tree.
They Are Pretty Low-Maintenance
These trees don’t require trimming, but if you need to take some off the sides and top, they take very well to heavy pruning.
Most varieties of elm trees have small leaves and small seeds, so there is very little cleanup, even when they drop all their leaves in the fall.
It’s just not recommended to plant them near drain lines, sidewalks, or buildings because the roots will cause damage near these structures.
How Big Do Elm Trees Get?
Elm trees reach an average size between 40 to 60 feet tall, but they have been known to reach over 100 feet in height.
Their canopy spreads out widely, often in a pleasing, shade-forming, fountain shape.
Depending on how tall elm trees grow, the canopy can spread as wide as 80 feet.
The trunks on these trees often consist of several smaller trunks fused together or branching off from the main trunk. You’ll want to give these big trees plenty of room to stretch out.
Other Elm Tree Benefits
Throughout history, the elm tree has been utilized for its lumber. The wood is strong and very flexible, despite the fast growth rate.
It’s this characteristic that makes elm wood ideal for wooden longbows. For centuries, elm trees have been used to make bows. Especially when yew trees were not available.
The lumber from elm trees has also been used for shipbuilding. The wood works well even when it stays submerged permanently. This means the bottom ridge of the boat—the keel—was often made of elm wood.
Elm Trees And Wildlife
The tiny flowers of the elm trees are very beneficial to honeybees. These also attract butterflies and moths, more beneficial pollinators that need our help.
Elm seeds provide food for many bird species such as chickadees, purple and Eastern goldfinches, as well as the rose-breasted grosbeak.
Yellow-bellied sapsuckers feed on the sap just under the bark of elm trees, and many other species nest in the branches.
5. Red Maples Offer Beautiful Autumn Color With Plenty Of Summer Shade
Hardiness Zones
3 to 9
Best Soil Type
Prefers acidic, moist soil.
Average Height
40 to 70 feet
Average Spread
40 to 50 feet
The red maple tree is a stunning specimen to behold in the fall. They often grace landscapes with bold crimson foliage when the days start to shorten, and the temps gradually decrease.
Red maple trees are great shade trees in the summer that can tolerate most soil types and thrive in full-sun areas.
They often have a rounded growth habit, but they can be quite variable. I have a red maple in my backyard that looks like a spade shovel head, with branches nearly touching the ground.
Other red maples grow on a tall singular trunk with big rounded canopies. It really depends on the tree itself. Though it takes well to prune if you are looking for a certain shape, just try not to cut the top off.
Requirements For Growing Red Maples
Red maple trees grow best in slightly acidic soils that are often moist.
They compete heavily with other plants for moisture. Once they are established though, the red maple is relatively drought tolerant.
While acidic, moist soil is ideal for red maples, they can and often do grow in nearly any other soil type. They like rich loamy soil, but do well in clay, and sandy soil as well. Under clay and sandy dirt, you’ll need to water them occasionally so they don’t get too dry.
Red Maples Provide Color Year Round
For an easy-to-grow shade tree that has a yearly interest, you can’t go wrong with the red maple.
In the spring the tree bursts forth with small clusters of red flowers before the tree buds.
The leaves soon follow and start off red-tinged before turning green. In the fall the leaves erupt with varying shades of red, depending on the specific variety. Even in the fall, the red maple has red branches.
Red Maple Maintenance Requirements
Red maples are fast-growing trees, they can grow from 18 to 24 inches per year. While many trees that grow this fast tend to be brittle, this isn’t the case for red maples. Their wood is still strong, and they rarely drop branches.
If you plant your red maple in lower-lying areas where water likes to accumulate, you’ll rarely have to water it. During times of drought, you will need to water your maple more frequently.
This species of maple requires very little pruning. You can let them grow how they please without needing to prune them except for branches that are no longer growing.
Most red maples don’t need much fertilization. They aren’t heavy feeders, but if you do decide to offer some supplemental feeding, just use a multi-purpose fertilizer once every couple of years.
Oak trees are some of the most popular shade trees in America for good reason. They are strong, provide plenty of shade, and are easy to grow. There are several different species to choose from.
Whether you’re looking for a tall growing straight tree, or you want a sprawling oak with broad interesting branches, there’s an oak tree for you.
In the United States alone, there are over 90 different species of an oak tree.
Oak Trees Are Notoriously Low Maintenance
Even when oak trees are young, they require little watering. As long as your area gets regular rainfall, you’ll likely not have to water your oak tree. In fact, it’s best not to over-water them because fungus and root rot can start to set in.
Even during severe dry periods, you’ll only need to water your oak tree about once or twice a month.
Unless you are trimming a young oak tree to achieve a certain shape, mature trees don’t need to be pruned. The only branches that need to be removed are the ones that are dry and brittle. This is just to make sure they don’t fall on their own.
How Fast Do Oak Trees Grow?
This depends on the species, but as a general rule, most oak trees will grow from a foot to three feet per year. When they are young, oak saplings grow much more quickly.
For the first 10 to 15 years oak trees can grow two to three feet per year, then they slow down after that.
Oak trees will continue to grow throughout their lifespan. Some oak trees can live upwards of 600 years, but the average tends to be between 100 to 200 years old.
How Messy Are Oak Trees?
All trees drop leaves, seeds, branches, or needles, so in essence, all trees are messy. Depending on the variety, oak trees can be very messy.
Most oak trees drop acorns along with their leaves. While these small round or oval nuts can feed a plethora of wildlife, they can be a pain to rake up.
With that being said, most oak trees don’t start to drop acorns until they are around 20 years old.
Some oaks like red oak trees only produce acorns every two years. Then again, when the trees get much older, they tend to slow down until they stop producing altogether.
With the additional mess comes a tree that is extremely hardy, and needs very little in the way of care. If you don’t mind a bed of acorns and leaves, then you’ll have a shade tree that you probably won’t have to worry about for the rest of your life.
7. Ginkgo Trees Have Unique Fan-Shaped Leaves
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
Best Soil Type
Grows well in most soils, but can’t handle consistent hot temps
Average Height
25 to 50 feet
Average Spread
25 to 35 feet
Gingko trees are some of the most unique and distinctive trees around. They are instantly recognized by their broad, fan-shaped leaves and compact growth habits.
These trees seem to be made for urban habitats and can withstand most soil types. They are at home in acidic and alkaline soil, as well as sandy fast-draining soil and heavy clay soils. The ginkgo tree doesn’t let pollution or salt keep its spirits down.
The flat, fan-shaped leaves turn a golden yellow in the fall. They have a nice habit of dropping all their leaves in a short period. Unlike most deciduous trees that take months to lose all their leaves, the ginkgo likes to do things all at once.
How To Grow A Ginkgo Tree
As long as you give a ginkgo tree dirt—nearly any kind will do—water, and plenty of sunshine it will thrive. Seriously, this tree is so easy to grow, even those without “green thumbs” can.
When you first plant it, drop in a little bit of fertilizer and keep the soil moist and you will soon have a great, unique shade tree.
Once they have settled in and their roots are growing well, these trees become drought-tolerant. While they don’t do well in hot, arid climates like the Southwest, desert states can grow in many other areas that are relatively humid.
Ideal conditions for ginkgo trees are rich, loamy, well-draining soil, with regular rainfall, and at least four hours of direct sunlight.
You won’t need to prune your ginkgo either. These trees don’t grow very tall, getting to about 50 feet tall max, and they tend to stay in a compact growth habit. Some people prune their ginkgo trees to maintain a certain shape, but it’s not a necessity.
I Heard That Ginkgo Trees Stink, Is This True?
That’s right, some ginkgo trees have a notorious reputation for smelling worse than a skunk after eating too much Taco bell. Fortunately, you can avoid having your yard labeled as the “Bog of Eternal Stench” by planting male ginkgo trees.
Female ginkgo trees put out a strong aroma when they start fruiting, so plant a male tree and you avoid the ripe feet smell.
Most nurseries only sell male ginkgo trees now, and some of these trees have been bred to be sterile.
When choosing a ginkgo tree, just make sure you get a male tree. Unless that is, you’re trying to keep your neighbor from coming over to borrow your hedge clippers again.
Ginkgo Trees Have More Than Just Unique Leaves
In more ways than one, the ginkgo tree is a unique relic. They have remained unchanged for hundreds of millions of years, and are sometimes called the living fossil. Add to the fact that the ginkgo tree is literally in a class of its own, and you have a very unique shade tree.
The ginkgo tree is the last living relative of the order Ginkgoales. All the other species in this order went extinct millions of years ago. While they are cultivated all over the world now, you can truly say you have a unique tree when you plant your own ginkgo.
8. Dogwoods Are Compact But Provide Many Seasons of Beauty
Hardiness Zones
3 to 8
Best Soil Type
Moisture-retentive, loamy soil
Average Height
25 to 40 feet
Average Spread
15 to 25 feet
In the spring and sometimes the summer, dogwood trees are instantly recognizable. They are covered in four-petaled flowers with green clusters in the middle. The flowers range in color from white, to yellow, or pink and red.
In the late fall and winter, most dogwoods produce small red berries that many bird species will eat, especially migratory birds.
Other animals that may visit your dogwood for red berries in the winter include squirrels, deer, rabbits, and possibly even black bears.
These trees don’t grow very tall but they can provide plenty of shade in small areas. They also show off pleasing colors most of the year. For a full list of smaller-sized shade trees, make sure to head on over to our article about the fastest-growing small shade trees, for a smaller outdoor space!
Requirements For Healthy Dogwood Trees
These trees don’t typically like full sunlight. Instead, they prefer morning sun and afternoon shade.
Luckily you can plant these on the northern or eastern side of your house to meet those requirements. Dogwoods don’t get very tall, so they don’t need to be planted as far away from your house as an oak tree, plus, you don’t have to prune them often.
Dogwoods will need supplemental watering during dry periods, but they don’t do well in low-lying wet areas. Making sure it’s watered regularly is the most care your dogwood will need.
Dogwoods Are Great Shade Trees For Small Spaces
Most dogwood trees only grow to about 20 to 30 feet tall and spread 10 to 20 feet wide.
Though under the best growing conditions, they can reach heights of 40 feet or more and get as wide as 25 feet, most will not get that big.
Dogwood trees have a moderate growth rate. They grow between one to two feet per year. It may take longer to get a good base of shade from a dogwood, but the spring flowers might make up for the wait.
If you don’t have several acres to plant giant oak trees, elms, or other looming giants, you might want to opt for a dainty, unassuming dogwood tree.
9. Ash Trees Are Under Attack
Hardiness Zones
2 to 9
Best Soil Type
Grows well in most soil types
Average Height
50 to 80 feet
Average Spread
40 to 50 feet
Ash trees are remarkable trees that grow tall and wide. They tolerate nearly any soil type and don’t need much in the way of care. The big problem is they are under attack by an introduced beetle that is quickly decimating ash tree numbers.
Because of the Emerald Ash borer, an insect that was brought over from Asia, these trees are not recommended in many states.
The adult beetle bores into the tree and lays its eggs. When they hatch, the larvae tunnel through the living tree tissue. When this living tissue is severely damaged, the trees eventually cease to live.
If you have dirt on your property, and you live in zone 2 through 9, then you can probably grow ash trees. Ash trees prefer rich, moist, loamy soil, but they can do well in clay, sand, and compact soil, and they can survive in slow-draining wet soil.
It doesn’t matter if your soil is acidic, alkaline, or neutral, an ash tree can handle it. As long as this tree gets plenty of sunshine and water, it can grow nearly anywhere.
The only care this tree need is to be watered during long dry spells. There is no pruning needed unless you are removing non-growing branches. Just keep a close eye on it for the emerald ash borer.
Recognizing Emerald Ash Borer Damage
There are several symptoms related to this beetle. The leaves and branches can begin to fade away before the fall, you may notice a lot of woodpeckers or a lot of growth at the base of the tree.
The most significant sign is small ⅛” to ¼” D-shaped holes.
These are exit holes from the beetle after it has evolved from the larval stage. If you see these holes, you might want to call an arborist to confirm.
Aside from showering you with cool shade in the hot summer months, these trees provide shelter and food for many animals. They can even feed tadpoles if they are planted near a water source.
Ash trees can be gorgeous in the fall. The leaves start to turn yellow, and continue to darken to orange, maroon, and then a deep purple color.It’s really an amazing show.
These trees are quick-growing specimens. The fastest species of ash, the green ash tree, can grow over two feet per year. If you’re planting these trees from seed, that means in ten years you could have a tree that’s over 20 feet tall.
Ash lumber is strong as well as flexible. That’s why it’s such an important wood for making baseball bats, hockey sticks, oars, bows, and much more.
10. Dawn Redwoods Are The Dinosaurs Of The Trees
Hardiness Zones
5 to 8
Best Soil Type
Deep, rich loam
Average Height
40 to 100 feet
Average Spread
20 to 30 feet
Dawn redwood fossils have been found in North America, right along the dinosaurs. These prehistoric trees were even thought to have been extinct until they were rediscovered.
According to the University of Kentucky,the dawn redwood was thought extinct for over 5 million years.
Though it was rediscovered in 1944 in China in the Szechwan Province. For two years scientists were unable to explore due to the war, but in 1946 a grove of over 1000 redwoods was found.
Not As Big As California Redwoods
The dawn redwood won’t get as tall as the giant California Redwoods which can easily reach heights over 300 feet tall. The dawn redwood tops out at a mere 100 feet tall and about 25 feet wide. They have a pyramidal growth, the bottom is wide and it gets smaller the higher it goes.
These trees that grew alongside the dinosaurs are fast-growing trees. They can quickly grow to 20 to 40 feet tall and give you over 20 feet of direct shade.
The Deciduous Tree That Resembles An Evergreen
While this tree grows and looks much like an evergreen tree, it will drop its leaves in the fall.
Even the small, soft leaves look like short pine needles, and the dawn redwood is a conifer. It grows small, green, round cones that house the seeds.
The Dawn Redwood Requires Little Care
This tree works well in urban settings where pollution can be higher and is often found along neighborhood streets. Aside from the small cones they drop, the tiny needle-like leaves require no cleanup, so they work well along walking paths and streets.
You won’t need to prune this tree as it grows nearly straight up, and in a conical canopy shape. The only pruning would be to remove old limbs that no longer leaf out.
They prefer deep, well-drained soil, but are tolerant of clay, and some flooding. The dawn redwood, once established, retains some drought tolerance.
11. Magnolia Trees Are The Sweet-Smelling Southern Evergreen
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
Best Soil Type
Slightly acidic loam
Average Height
20 to 70
Average Spread
20 to 40 feet
The only evergreen on our list today shows up with plenty of extra benefits. In the spring you can smell the sweet fragrance of the large blooms of the magnolia tree. While most magnolia flowers are creamy white, they also come in yellow, pink, or purple colors.
Magnolia trees are moderate to slow-growing trees. Depending on the variety, they can grow no larger than tall shrubs, or soar up to 70 feet in the air. They can spread up to 40 feet wide, offering you plenty of space to hang out in the shade.
Magnolia Trees Don’t Need Pruning
Unless you are looking for a certain shape, or the limbs are severely damaged, magnolia trees don’t need pruning.
Just let them grow and they will spread out and offer plenty of shade.
I have seen Southern magnolia trees stretch out so far the limbs reached the ground and then rooted to grow more trees.
Words simply can do such a sight justice. But it made for a wonderfully cool hideout in the heat of the Southern summer.
Different Varieties Of Magnolia Trees
While some trees, the Southern magnolia, in particular, is an evergreen tree, others are deciduous.
Most of them make great, easy-to-grow shade trees, regardless if they keep their leaves during the winter or not.
The Southern magnolia tree is the tree with the dark, olive green to almost black, broad, thick, and waxy leaves most of us know. While these trees are iconic, and reminiscent of slow, southern summers, they can be a little messy.
A few of the thick leaves drop throughout the year, but most of the previous year’s leaves drop in the spring. Then in the summer, after the flowers are finished, the tree drops the large seed pods. These trees can require a bit of cleanup if you’re trying to keep a tidy yard.
What Kind Of Soil Is Best For Southern Magnolias?
While this tree would prefer rich, well-draining, acidic, loamy soil, most of the time they are stuck growing in thick red clay. Which they tolerate very well.
Magnolia trees can also stand some flooding, but they won’t do so well in constantly wet soil.
They can take the heat, and are drought tolerant, as their natural habitat can be quite dry at times. Just be sure to give it some water during extended dry spells to keep this tree happy and provide you with plenty of shade.
How To Care For Backyard Shade Trees
Now that you have your shade tree picked out, let’s go over how to plant them and make sure they are around for generations to come.
A little bit of prep goes a long way with these trees. All of these trees are easy to care for and require little care once they are in the ground, but the planting part is vitally important.
Aside from the dogwood tree, the others on this list should be planted in a spot that gets plenty of sunlight. These trees will need at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Looking for some southern exposure will usually give your tree enough light.
Plus, if you are looking specifically for fast-growing shade trees, make sure to head on over to our article about the best, and fastest-growing trees for shade!
Make Sure They Have Space
You generally want to plant trees at least 25 feet away from any structure, especially your house. For some of the larger trees here, I’d recommend giving them even more space. When a tree can grow over 50 feet in the air, and spread as wide or more, planting them close is just asking for trouble.
Limbs can fall, or the tree can be knocked over during storms, so be sure to give them plenty of space. Even the strongest trees can be felled by Mother Nature.
Be mindful of sidewalks, driveways, pools, and septic systems. Some trees have shallow roots that can lift concrete causing trip hazards, or have roots that can infiltrate drain lines in their search for water.
Prep The Ground Where You’re Planting Your Tree
You may already know to dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball, but while you’re prepping the hole, have some soil additives ready to add to the hole if you have dense or sandy soil.
Most trees, when they are starting out, need a lot of nutrients to get established.
Make Sure To Dig Proper Sized Holes
When digging holes for your future shade trees, you need a strong shovel able to handle compacted soil, rocks, roots, and whatever else is buried in the ground.
That’s why the Bully Tools 14-Gauge Round Point Shovel will get the job done every time. It has a fiberglass handle and a thick, reinforced shovel head for the toughest of jobs.
Add Peat Moss!
Adding peat moss, or other soil amendments helps to hold moisture and offers plenty of organic matter for your young, growing tree.
You might also want to add a little bit of all-purpose fertilizer to the hole just to give the roots an extra boost.
Water Before Planting
I like to water the hole before dropping it in the tree, but after adding soil amendments and fertilizer.
Fill the hole about halfway full of water, then mix up the dirt with your shovel, then put your tree in the hole and backfill it with dirt.
This makes sure the rootball gets plenty of water, and doesn’t run off instead of soaking into the ground.
Be Careful With The Trunk
When planting your new tree, be sure to keep the new soil level with the root ball.
Don’t bury the trunk deeper into the ground. If the base of the tree is surrounded by dirt and moisture, you might be inviting fungal infections.
The same goes for mulch. Mulch is a great additive to help keep moisture in the soil around your new tree, and keeps the roots cool in the summer, and warm in the winter. Just be sure to leave a few inches free of mulch around the trunk of the tree.
Water Your Sapling
For a year or two after you have planted your tree, make sure it gets plenty of water. For the first couple of weeks, you may want to water your tree daily.
After two weeks, water your tree about two to three times per week, and then once a week for the next year or two.
When watering trees, garden vegetables, or flowers, soaker hoses are your best friend. Spraying the leaves and flowers can cause sun spots, and splashing the dirt up onto the plant can spread infections, so soaking the ground is the best way to water.
When looking for an easy-to-grow shade tree that shoots up fast, you have several choices. Depending on how much space you have, the amount of cleanup, and your overall appearance, you can’t go wrong with these trees:
Linden
Ginkgo
Dawn Redwood
Oak trees
Ash
Tulip tree
Sycamore
Elm
Southern Magnolia
Dogwood
Red maple
Each of these trees needs very little care once the roots are nice and established. Most don’t care what kind of soil they grow in, and many are drought-tolerant. Don’t wait for Arbor day to plant a tree, pick a few out and get to planting!
References
Herms, Daniel A., and Deborah G. McCullough. “Emerald ash borer invasion of North America: history, biology, ecology, impacts, and management.” Annual review of entomology 59.1 (2014): 13-30.
Hubbes, Martin. “The American elm and Dutch elm disease.” The Forestry Chronicle 75.2 (1999): 265-273.
Gressitt, J. Linsley. “The California Academy-Lingnan dawn-redwood expedition.” Arnoldia 58.4/1 (1998): 35-39.
Major, Randolph T. “The ginkgo, the most ancient living tree: the resistance of Ginkgo biloba L. to pests accounts in part for the longevity of this species.” Science 157.3794 (1967): 1270-1273.
All trees, especially fruit trees such as orange trees, require certain nutrients to grow big and strong. When those nutrients aren’t available, problems can and probably will arise.
While nitrogen is the most important nutrient for orange tree growth, there are other nutrients your orange tree needs to produce amazing fruit.
The best orange tree fertilizer has all of the main components (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) and micronutrients such as zinc and magnesium.
If you’re growing an orange tree, you probably want it to produce lots of tasty fruit which will require specific nutrients. That’s where we come in, to make sure your orange Tree Journey is successful!
What Should Be In An Orange Tree Fertilizer?
Unlike most trees in your yard, your orange tree is going to need a little extra when it comes to fertilizer.
Since your tree is producing oranges, which requires a lot of input from the tree, you need to make sure you’re giving it everything it needs so you end up with some delicious fruit! That means giving it proper nutrients along with full sun.
Here are the components that should be in any good orange tree fertilizer.
How Your Orange Tree Uses Nitrogen
Nitrogen is the most important element in fertilizers for orange trees. It is present in every cell of the tree which is why your orange tree will use more nitrogen than anything else.
Nitrogen is used in making amino acids, proteins, and enzymes within your orange tree. It is required for many key functions of the cells including respiration, cell division, and growth of the tree.
As important as nitrogen is, without other key nutrients present in the fertilizer you use, nitrogen will not be able to properly function within the tree.
Don’t forget to make sure your fertilizer has the other important nutrients required for optimal orange tree growth as well.
How Your Orange Tree Uses Phosphorus
Phosphorus, like nitrogen, is present in all of your orange tree’s living tissues. Your orange tree requires phosphorus so it can photosynthesize and transport energy within the tree.
In order for your orange tree to produce and store energy while photosynthesizing, it needs to have enough phosphorus.
Unlike nitrogen, phosphorus does not leach easily from the soil and therefore isn’t required in as large of quantities as nitrogen. Leaching is the loss of water soluble substances from the upper layers of soil due to precipitation carrying it deeper into the soil.
While phosphorus does not easily leach from soil, it can become less mobile in clay soils with excess iron, aluminum, or calcium. That’s why having properly balanced nutrients present in your soil and fertilizer is so important!
Potassium in your fertilizer is critical for fruit development on your orange tree.
If you don’t have enough potassium, your orange tree won’t produce as much fruit. The fruit will be smaller in size, and the overall quality of your fruit will suffer.
Potassium is necessary for the formation of sugar and starches in your oranges which is why it can significantly impact the flavor and color of your oranges.
Potassium can significantly limit the function of nitrogen, so you’ll want to make sure you have enough potassium to ensure your orange tree can use nitrogen efficiently.
How Your Orange Tree Uses Nutrients
Other nutrients which significantly impact your orange tree, and the quality of its fruit, include boron, calcium, sulfur, iron, zinc, copper, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, and nickel.
These nutrients are needed in much smaller quantities than nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, but are still extremely important especially when it comes to your orange fruit quality.
Some of these nutrients help regulate cell functions while others are important for the development of tasty fruit.
By using a complete fertilizer made for citrus trees, you’ll ensure your orange tree gets all of the nutrients it needs! We’ll cover the details of the best fertilizers for your orange tree below.
Soil pH Can Impact Fertilizer
Soil pH is just as important as fertilizer when it comes to plant nutrition. The soil pH is measured on a scale of 0 to 14. A pH of 7 is considered neutral while lower numbers are more acidic and higher numbers are more basic.
All plants have an optimal soil pH range. For orange trees, the soil pH is recommended to be slightly acidic between 5.5 and 6.5.
If the soil pH is too high (basic) then some nutrients will bind to the soil and not be available for the plant to use. If the soil pH is too low (acidic) then nutrients may be available in excess which can cause nutrient issues as well.
Now that you know how pH impacts the availability of nutrients to get from the soil to your orange tree, let’s discuss how you can tell if your tree has a nutrient problem.
How Can You Tell If Your Orange Tree Has A Nutrient Problem?
As with most things, too much or too little of certain nutrients will cause problems for your citrus tree. Here’s how to spot a nutrient issue with your orange tree so you can address it quickly.
If you’re ever uncertain about what nutrients your orange tree needs, or doesn’t need, you can always have your soil or leaf tissue tested to find out exactly what’s wrong.
The University of California provides a great tool that explains how to collect soil and leaf samples for testing and how to interpret your results.
Nitrogen
A nitrogen deficiency in your orange tree will cause the leaves on the entire tree to turn yellow-green to yellow depending on how extreme the deficiency is.
There are several other things that can cause orange tree leaves to yellow too. A nitrogen deficiency will cause the entire leaf to turn yellow with no distinctive pattern to the discoloration.
A nitrogen deficiency will lead to slower tree growth, reduced fruit production, and may reduce fruit size.
Excess nitrogen leads to increased vegetation growth, delays the rate of fruit maturing, may thicken fruit peels and lower fruit sugar content. Excess nitrogen can also lead to a late flush of leaf growth in late fall which will be vulnerable to frost damage.
Phosphorus
The most obvious symptom of phosphorus deficiency is seen in the orange tree’s fruit. The rind of the fruit will be thicker, the orange will contain less juice, and be more acidic.
On rare occasions, phosphorus deficiency may cause the leaves to have a dull, bronze appearance, with the oldest leaves being impacted first.
Excess phosphorus can cause there to be a deficiency in either copper or zinc by limiting their uptake in the orange tree. Excess phosphorus can also impact the fruit, decreasing its size and making the juice more acidic.
Potassium
Potassium deficiencies in your orange tree can be difficult to detect. It will lead to reduced tree growth and smaller fruits. Rarely, the leaves can develop a yellow-bronze color, especially leaves closest to the fruit.
The best way to detect a potassium deficiency is with a soil test or leaf tissue test.
Excess potassium will impact the orange fruit quality, leading to thicker rinds and increasing the amount of acid in the fruit juice.
Iron
Iron deficiency will also show in the leaves, with the leaf turning a lighter green except for the veins which will remain dark green. The light green will become more yellow if the problem is not addressed.
Iron deficiencies can also cause new leaves to be smaller and can eventually lead to dieback of the tree.
Magnesium
Magnesium deficiency will cause symptoms in your orange tree leaves. The damage will start as a yellow-green spot near the base of the leaf on either side of the midrib.
The area will become larger and more yellow in color, ultimately turning the entire leaf yellow except for the tip of the leaf and an inverted v-shaped area near the base of the leaf.
Manganese
A manganese deficiency will turn the leaves a light green color except for the areas around the mid-rib and the larger leaf veins which will remain dark green. The light green areas will eventually turn a yellow-bronze color as the deficiency becomes severe.
Zinc
Zinc deficiency will make small yellow blotches appear between the dark green veins on the leaf.
If the deficiency is severe, the leaves will become increasingly yellow with the exception of the dark green veins. In the most extreme cases, the leaves can also become smaller and have a more narrow tip.
Now that you know what your orange tree may look like if it has too much or too little of certain nutrients, let’s discuss the 5 best fertilizers for your orange tree!
1. Granular Fertilizers Are A Common Choice
Granular fertilizers are probably the most common type of fertilizer that most homeowners use for lawns, flowers, and gardens.
It is easy to apply and comes in all sorts of formulations at your local hardware or gardening center.
Granular fertilizers can either be quick-release or slow-release. For your orange tree, we recommend using a slow-release fertilizer so that your tree has time to use all of the nutrients.
With a quick-release fertilizer, you’ll have to reapply it more often and some of it may wash out of the root zone before your orange tree can actually use it.
Whichever formulation of granular fertilizer you use, make sure it is a complete fertilizer.
Complete fertilizers have the standard nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) but also have micronutrients such as magnesium and iron as well.
Below is a table showing how many pounds of nitrogen the University of Florida recommends for orange trees per year based on their age. They recommend splitting up the total nitrogen needed per year into several different applications throughout the year based on the tree’s age as shown in row 2.
The table also provides examples of how many pounds of three common fertilizers (6-6-6, 8-8-8, 10-10-10) you should use per application to meet the overall nitrogen requirements.
Age of Tree
1
2
3
4
5+
# of applications per year
6
5
4
3
3
Pounds of Nitrogen per Year
0.15 – 0.30
0.30 – 0.60
0.45 – 0.90
0.80 – 1.0
1.1 – 1.4
Pounds of 6-6-6 per application
0.4 – 0.8
1.0 – 2.0
1.9 – 3.8
4.4 – 5.6
6.1- 7.8
Pounds of 8-8-8 per application
0.3 – 0.6
0.8 – 1.5
1.4 – 2.8
3.3 – 4.2
4.6 – 5.8
Pounds of 10-10-10 per application
0.3 – 0.5
0.6 – 1.2
1.1 – 2.3
2.7 – 3.3
3.7 – 4.7
When using a granular fertilizer, always follow the recommendations for how to apply it, which should be on the back of the bag, and always wear gloves.
Most granular fertilizers will recommend that you spread the fertilizer around the tree but don’t let the fertilizer touch the trunk of the tree. You should spread the fertilizer evenly from the trunk and 1 foot past the drip line for each year of growth up to 10 feet.
For example, if you have a 5-year-old tree, you’ll want to spread the fertilizer evenly under the canopy and then another 5 feet past the drip line.
For best results, once the granular fertilizer is applied, it should be raked into the soil and then watered in.
This Miracle-Gro Shake N’ Feed Citrus Tree Fertilizer eliminates a lot of the measuring and guesswork required for some other granular fertilizers. It feeds for up to three months per application and includes the micronutrients needed for growing healthy orange trees.
2. Fertilizer Spikes Make It Easy
Fertilizer spikes are probably the easiest form of fertilizer to use. You can simply place them in the ground where they will slowly release fertilizer for a certain amount of time.
However, there are a few drawbacks to using fertilizer spikes for your orange tree.
Fertilizer spikes are only releasing fertilizer when it rains. If you aren’t getting rain on a regular basis, your tree won’t be getting nutrients on a regular basis and you’ll have to water them manually to get them to work.
There is also a bit of debate on how far the fertilizer from a spike will spread through the soil. Since most spikes recommend a spacing of 3 feet or more, some growers worry that the fertilizer isn’t being distributed evenly throughout the root system.
Drawbacks aside, if you don’t have a lot of time to invest in your orange tree, fertilizer spikes are a great option to minimize the amount of effort you’ll have to use when fertilizing your orange tree.
Liquid fertilizers are another form of fertilizer you should consider for your orange tree. They can be especially useful if you need to get nutrients to your tree quickly.
Since it is in a liquid form, your tree will have instant access to all the nutrients liquid fertilizer provides! This can be a huge benefit of using a liquid fertilizer if you’re dealing with one of the nutrient deficiencies we mentioned above.
Since the nutrients from liquid fertilizers are available all at once, this usually means it will get used by the orange tree quicker and will require you to fertilize the tree more often.
Most liquid fertilizers come in a concentrated form. You’ll have to add plenty of water, according to the directions, before you can apply it to your orange tree.
Make sure to follow the application directions exactly to avoid adding too much fertilizer to your tree at one time.
If you’re interested in using a liquid fertilizer for your orange tree, EZ-gro Citrus Fertilizer has all of the essential nutrients your orange tree will need.
4. Organic Fertilizers Cut Out The Synthetics
Organic fertilizers are derived directly from plant or animal sources rather than being produced synthetically.
Granular, spike, and liquid fertilizers are all available in organic forms. There are a couple of benefits to using organic fertilizers.
By using organic fertilizers, you don’t have to worry about introducing any foreign toxins into the soil.
Using organic fertilizers also protects water sources in your area from any synthetic nutrients leaching out of the soil into the water.Anything that may leach out of organic fertilizers is all-natural and safe.
Organic fertilizers also tend to break down more slowly in the soil.While they tend to contain lower amounts of nutrients than synthetic fertilizers, you may not have to apply them as frequently because they will last longer in the soil.
The downside to using organic fertilizers is that they do tend to cost more, and you usually have to apply more to get the same results.
A great option for a granular organic fertilizer for your orange tree is Dr. Earth’s Organic 9 Fruit Tree Fertilizer. It contains the nutrients your orange tree needs as well as beneficial soil microbes which will improve root health.
5. Foliar Sprays Focus On The Leaves
If you’re noticing a nutrient deficiency in your orange tree, a foliar spray may be the quickest way to resolve it.
Foliar sprays are applied directly to the leaves of your orange tree.
Before attempting a foliar spray, you should consider if your orange tree is too large for you to properly apply it.You need to get good coverage over the entire tree canopy for the best results. If your orange tree is too big, you’ll need to stick to the other fertilizer options we’ve outlined above.
If your orange tree is suffering from magnesium, manganese, or zinc deficiencies, a foliar spray may be the quickest way to help your tree.
Manganese and zinc are best delivered through foliar sprays in a sulfate form. They should both be applied at a rate of 1 to 2 pounds per acre.
If you decide to apply a foliar spray to your orange tree, make sure you follow all of the product directions and wear the appropriate protective clothing as recommended by the manufacturer.
That’s A Wrap!
Providing your orange tree with the proper nutrients is critical to its overall health and production of delicious oranges. However, it’s not as simple as just throwing down a generic fertilizer around your tree.
You’ll want to make sure you give your orange tree plenty of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, as well as all of the other nutrients we’ve discussed here.
Remember to check the pH of your soil! If the pH isn’t correct, it won’t matter how good your orange tree fertilizer is. You should take a look at our guide on the best places to plant an orange tree so you can choose a spot with the best soil types!
You can use granular, spike, or liquid fertilizers depending on your preferred method of application and how much time you’re willing to invest.
Either way, knowing what you know now about what nutrients your orange tree needs, you’re sure to have a productive orange tree to enjoy for many years!
References
Obreza, T.A. and Rouse, R.E., 1993. Fertilizer Effects on Early Growth and Yield of Hamlin’ Orange Trees. HortScience, 28(2), pp.111-114.
Obreza, T.A. and Schumann, A., 2010. Keeping water and nutrients in the Florida citrus tree root zone. HortTechnology, 20(1), pp.67-73.
Rasmussen, G.K. and Smith, P.F., 1961. Evaluation of Fertilizer Practices for Young Orange Trees. In Proceedings of the Florida State Horticultural Society (Vol. 74, pp. 90-94).
Orange trees are known for their ability to produce delicious fruit, among their other benefits such as the appealing look of the tree and the shade it can create.
When it is time to decide whether an orange tree is a right fit for you, though, you’ll want to look past the promise of fresh-squeezed juice. It is important to question whether your environment is right for growing this citrus tree!
Orange trees grow their best when they receive 6-8 hours of full, unobstructed, sunlight on a daily basis. The direct sunlight that citrus trees crave is what helps them to bloom, grow taller, produce juicy fruit, sustain an even growth pattern, and more.
Hang out with us for a while to learn about the ins and outs of orange trees and sunlight. We’ll touch on the benefits of full sunlight, how to maintain an indoor tree, and even what happens if your tree receives the wrong amount of sunlight (too much or too little!)
Let’s get into it.
Why Is The Sun So Important To Orange Trees?
Different types of trees have different growing requirements, of course. Often, lots of sunlight is central to the success of a tree, but this cannot be counted on. Some trees grow lower, beneath taller species, and actually prefer less sunlight.
It’s so important, for that reason, to do your research and make sure you understand the needs of your tree. You may find yourself wondering what the difference is, and why trees need such varying levels of sunlight.
This need has a lot to do with the environment that species are from, as well as how they have evolved over time to best produce fruit, sap, or whatever other product they may provide.
Photosynthesis Is How Plants “Eat”
There is a process you might have heard of, which helps plants turn carbon dioxide, sunlight, and water into glucose. Glucose is used as energy and is critical to the survival and productivity of plants. That’s photosynthesis for you!
The sun, then, is a very important player in plants’ abilities to grow and develop into mature, strong organisms.
There are hundreds of species of orange trees, many sources will say 400-600+, and that means that there is a range of needs that you might want to accommodate.
Not sure how to get started? Reach out to a local arborist that is equipped to evaluate your specific orange tree. This will allow you to start out the right way.
Orange Trees As A Grouping
With so many species, it would be unfair to focus on just a few. So, we’ll be talking about orange trees as a general grouping today. You can use this piece as a foundation, to build your species-specific knowledge on top of.
So, we will talk about orange trees as a general grouping. You can use this as a foundation, and learn more about whatever species of orange tree you end up choosing.
Full sunlight conditions are by far the best for orange trees, and any other citrus trees, really. This means that your tree should get 6-8 hours of full, direct sunlight each day.
You can read more about the sunlight needs of other citrus fruits in our articles on why lemons and limes grow best in full sun.
The reasons that orange trees rely on full sunlight are many, so let’s get into that now!
1. Sunny Conditions Promote A Healthier Orange Tree
Sunlight helps trees dry off after being watered, or sitting through the rain. The benefits of this are actually a big part of how successful an orange tree will end up being.
Believe it or not, orange trees are one of the trees that don’t have to be watered too often. That’s why having an ample amount of sun to dry excess water is always important.
Let’s go over some of the reasons that branches and leaves getting full sunlight can help promote an orange tree that is overall healthier.
Resistance To Disease And Rot
When your tree gets wet and is unable to dry off, it becomes fertile ground for fungus to grow, which eventually turns to rot that could destroy the tree.
It can also lead to disease because your tree will be in a weaker state that does not allow it to fight off other issues. If your orange tree grows in the sun, the way that it is meant to, it will be more resistant to both disease and rot.
Avoiding Pests
Cool, damp areas tend to draw insects and other pests. This includes trees that have begun to rot, are too over-shaded, or are otherwise cool and wet.
The more water that sits on your tree, the more disease and rot that is possible, and thus follows the infestations that may occur.
This is a snowball effect that can quickly evolve and end up in your tree’s eventual demise.
Fruit With Stronger Skin
Another damaging effect of sitting water? The impact that it has on the fruit of your tree. Now, oranges are a bit of a different story than fruits with skin that is often thinner, like peaches, plums, and even apples.
However, even the thick skin of orange can succumb to sitting water. The peel may begin to crack or be weakened by sitting in water in a way that makes the fruit more susceptible to bugs and small animals getting to the fruit inside.
Unless this is your goal, to feed some local animals, you may want to avoid allowing water to sit on your oranges, when you can help it.
Of course, water is important, but, just like sunlight, too much can have negative effects just like too little can.
Setting Your Tree Up For Success
We like to recommend that you try out the CARPATHEN Drip Irrigation Kit as a way to avoid over, or under, watering your tree.
It’s ¼ tubing, drip connectors, and drip emitters will help you to create a full irrigation system that is flexible to both your needs and the space you are working to grow your orange tree in.
As long as your orange tree is located in a space where it gets the recommended 6-8 hours of daily light, both even and direct, water damage shouldn’t be your biggest concern.
If you’re looking for other ways to avoid damage from sitting water, pruning your tree may be the way to go. The Gonicc 8.5” Professional Rotating Bypass Titanium Coated Pruning Shears are a great tool when you are looking to clear out any branches that might have fallen to disease or infestation.
2. Orange Trees Grow Much Faster In Full Sun
Each plant has conditions that best support its needs. You don’t see cacti in Maine, and you wouldn’t see a douglas fir growing in New Mexico.
Each place has an environment that is meant to support certain plants, thanks to the conditions that plants need.
Sunlight may be one factor, but your tree also needs the right kinds of fertilization, and amounts of water, and other general maintenance is done throughout the year.
Even the plants that a tree shares its soil with will either support or inhibit your tree from getting the nutrients that they need.
Photosynthesis is triggered by sunlight and is the process most essential for a tree to create energy that helps it sustain new growth, like the oranges that we all know and love.
Photosynthesis And Its Workings
The process of photosynthesis creates a form of sugar, glucose, which acts like food for your plant. This only occurs when plants are able to take in and combine sunlight, water, and the gases in the air.
Everything from plants on land to algae in the water and even microorganisms go through photosynthesis and rely on the energy that it creates.
The more sunlight that a tree gets, the more energy it will have to draw from when it comes to producing fruit, flowers, and more.
3. Orange Trees Bloom Better In Full Sun
Sunlight doesn’t just support the speed of growth, it actually allows for more growth, thanks to your tree being healthier and getting more energy from photosynthesis.
Orange trees will always bloom more when they get lots of sun. This is not true for all trees, though, so don’t expect that all of your plants will follow this rule.
Some trees actually bloom better in full shade, while others prefer partial shade to do their best. Flowers like primrose, for example, will flower less than usual if they get too much sun.
It is very important to know the needs of your individual tree because each plant is going to have needs that differ. Orange trees just happen to be in the group of trees that thrive in lots of sunlight.
So, there are trees that actually need less sunlight in order to bloom better? Yes!
It may seem odd, but certain plants have evolved over time to fit into their environment, which often means that they have adapted to thrive in conditions that are less ideal. Some plants grow underneath taller ones, and they are used to the shade and damp conditions.
Orange trees are used to being the plant that grows over the shorter ones, so they need more sunlight to fare well. This helps to explain why they need these conditions, while other plants may need the opposite of full sun and warmth.
4. Orange Trees Produce More Fruit In Full Sun
Orange trees need full sunlight to produce the fruit that follows a bloom. This is allowed by photosynthesis, as well, which means that the tree will use its energy not only to survive but to produce food.
How does more sunlight impact the production of oranges?
Higher energy levels: Since energy production is based on photosynthesis, and that process is kicked off by sunlight, there is a direct link between sunlight and energy. A tree with too little energy will not be able to be productive nor will the fruit be as good.
Fewer structural issues: Structural integrity is also key when it comes to getting good fruit. The sun will help dry your tree and keep it from having negative impacts of sitting water. Therefore, your tree will have fewer issues like disease, rot, and infestation to fight off. It can put that energy toward fruit production instead of basic survival.
Most fruit trees thrive in full sunlight. For instance, we have a whole article dedicated to cherry trees and why they grow best in full sun! Find a sunny spot in the yard, or even indoors near a window, to plant your orange tree!
5. Your Orange Tree Is Shaped By Sunlight
Aesthetics are important, of course, but the looks and shape of your tree play a much larger role in the overall success of the tree.
On top of being nice to look at, you want your orange tree to be as strong, resilient, and adaptable as it can be. It might surprise you to learn that an even appearance can help to create a tree that is not only beautiful but also healthy. The best of both worlds!
A healthy tree, on the flip side, will also look better. This is a cycle that continues; as your tree gets fuller it will grow better, and as your tree grows more evenly it will be able to support the weight of more fruit.
We could go on, but I’m sure you get the point. A well-maintained tree stays in good shape, while an uneven, unhealthy tree will take quite some time to improve.
Sunlight’s Role In Shaping
That’s all well and good, but how is sunlight such a big part of this cycle?
New growth gravitates toward the sun, to get the energy it needs to continue growing. So, the dispersal of sunlight decides whether a tree will be lopsided, patchy, and unhealthy or full, even, and stable.
Partially shaded areas might lead to a tree that leans, as many of the branches on one side compete to get some of that sunlight that they need.
A Tree’s Need For Sunlight
For example, consider a mint plant that might be growing in your kitchen window. First of all, cheers to sustaining your own mini-herb garden. Very cool! Have you ever stopped to notice that the mint often leans toward the window, though?
In the same way that the leaves and branches of an orange tree by for the sun, your mint tree needs to soak in some rays, too.
Almost all plants need that sunlight throughout the day to keep producing more growth. So, an outdoor tree with unobstructed access to light will be much more even and have a fuller canopy.
Throwing Shade
There are some unwanted effects that trees, including your orange tree, will experience if they receive too much shade:
Weak branches: Branches with less access to sunlight will have a weaker attachment to the tree, as they try to reach further to get sunlight. The branches themselves will also be weaker, thanks to this.
A lopsided tree: Sunlight that is only available in inconsistent patterns will cause new growth that is also inconsistent. Spots that get more shade will be thinner and less productive, while the areas in fuller sunlight may be more robust and have better conditions to grow fruit.
Less Canopy Space: Growth gaps mean that you end up with a smaller, less productive, and uneven canopy. So, prepare for less fruit, less shade, and more work to maintain any semblance of an evenly shaped canopy.
An orange tree with access to full sunlight without obstruction will be able to grow taller, faster, more even, and more. This all plays into the structural integrity of the tree, which ties into its core health.
Is There Such A Thing As Too Much Sun For An Orange Tree?
Orange trees need the sun. So no amount of sun can be too much, isn’t that a fair assumption? Not quite, actually.
Too much of any good thing is known to become bad. Sunlight is not an exception to this rule.
The Effects Of Too Much Sun
As we get into this, we should note that it is most often a combination of heat, dryness, and then sun that ends up causing issues. Generally, the sun alone won’t cause lasting damage, though it is possible in extreme cases.
There are a few signs of damage that you can look out for:
Sunburn
Trees can get sunburnt just like people can. If they receive too much direct sunlight for too long, they can end up with a nasty sunburn. This occurs mostly in high heat and UV levels that are higher.
Wondering what this looks like? Sunburn can manifest in similar ways on a tree that it can on a human!
People get skin that often is red, peeled, and drier than usual. It is the exact same for trees!
The bark may become drier, appear discolored, and even peel off, eventually. At the least, the bark will be noticeably looser and weaker following the sunburn.
Water Stress
When an orange tree has received too much sun, it can also impact the way that the tree can access water. Heat and dryness that come with the sun will end up causing a lack of water for your tree to utilize.
A tree under water stress will often have discolored leaves, and weaker bark and the soil around the tree will appear drier than usual.
Your tree will be made unable to absorb the nutrients necessary for its growth when faced with water stress.
Really, anytime we take away certain basic necessities, plants turn their energy toward survival, and are less concerned with prosperity.
How (And When) To Protect Your Orange Tree From Too Much Sun
Hold on a second. How on earth is there such a thing as too much sun, if we’ve spent this whole piece talking about orange trees’ need for the sun?
Even a little tree sunburn can’t be that bad, right?
Well, ensuring that your tree avoids sunburn and water stress is a part of the maintenance that it relies on to survive. So, yes. There is a thing as too much sun and it could make a big difference for your tree.
Trees don’t necessarily need our help with this, thanks to a little process called photoprotection. Photoprotection is a process that has evolved over time and acts as a natural defense against the harshness of the sun.
Photoprotection is what keeps leaves from being oxidated and bleached, or what we would refer to as ‘sunburnt’, by that full, direct sunlight, you can compare photoprotection to putting on a pair of sunglasses when it is bright outside!
Essentially, this barrier is activated in full sunlight but can be turned back off immediately once a leaf is shaded. This shade could come from a building or structure, another leaf, or even just as the evening progresses and sunlight becomes weaker.
Tree wraps are the perfect way to solve the problem of too much sunlight, and any negative impacts that may bring.
By now, we can see that orange trees crave sunlight, and that is a large factor in their growth. It’s clear that a lack of sun can negatively impact your tree in more ways than one.
So, then, what is the line, the point of no return, that will cause your tree to lack viability?
It isn’t a cloudy day, so let’s start there. Your orange tree is not going to be drained of all the energy it has produced through photosynthesis the minute that clouds begin to block the precious sun. In fact, it can still create some energy even on a cloudy day.
Have you gotten a sunburn, or seen someone get burnt, on a cloudy day? Yeah, it’s like that. The sun is still there, and so are some of its UV rays, which allow photosynthesis to continue regardless of the weather.
A Cloud’s Impact On Photosynthesis
Really, cloudy days just slow some of the processes of your sun-craving tree. The production of fruit, bloom of flowers, growth of the canopy, and other ‘secondary’ processes that your tree performs may be set aside so that the tree can put its limited energy toward staying stable and healthy.
Too many cloudy days in a row where you live may impact the overall growth of your tree, but this isn’t necessarily a dealbreaker if sunlight is still common enough throughout the year.
Your Tree Will Have Lower Energy Levels
Your tree will just run on lower levels of energy because photosynthesis will not be as constant in its production of glucose.
This results in less fruit, and your oranges will likely be a little smaller and not quite as juicy.
This is a factor that needs to be considered, as well, when it comes to indoor trees. If the light is not properly coming through windowpanes, or if your tree doesn’t receive enough of it, your oranges may be few and far between.
A solution to this frustrating problem? LED lights!
Are you in an area that doesn’t leave you much yard space, but really want access to fresh-squeezed orange juice? We can make that happen!
Think of the mint plant from before, the one that grows on the windowsill but gravitates toward the sun in order to get the amount of sunlight it needs. The same concept applies to larger plants, like trees, that live indoors but can still access the benefits that the outdoors provides.
Whether it is via a large window, LED lights, or from taking the tree outside every so often, make sure that your orange tree gets lots of sun. Mix that with regular watering and some fertilization, and your oranges will be growing steadily!
Okay, okay. I know. Horrendous joke aside, we’ve come to the end.
Orange trees visibly thrive in conditions that allow for 6-8 hours of unobstructed, direct sunlight daily.
Also, before planting it’s good to familiarize yourself with the areas where orange trees grow best! Head on over to our article to learn more.
There are a number of reasons that your orange tree does best in this type of lighting, and we’re going to recap why.
5 reasons why orange trees grow best in full sun:
Sunny conditions promote a healthier orange tree
Orange trees grow much faster in full sun
Orange trees bloom better in full sun
Orange trees produce more fruit in full sun
Your orange tree is shaped by sunlight
Sunlight matters, but too much and too little of a good thing can both be bad. The same goes for water. Finding the right balance of conditions to support your tree is going to be the key to success.
Keep an eye on your outdoor orange tree to see that it avoids water stress, sunburn, sitting water, dangerous limbs, and anything else that could contribute to issues down the road.
Feeling nervous about the prospect of evaluating your orange tree by yourself? Don’t forget that there are local arborists that you can ask for help. It’s their job, after all!
References
Burns, A. J. (1976). California-Arizona Fresh Oranges: Marketing Patterns, Prices, Costs, Margins, and Grower Returns (Vol. 638). Economic Research Service, US Department of Agriculture.
González, Z., Rosal, A., Requejo, A., & Rodríguez, A. (2011). Production of pulp and energy using orange tree prunings. Bioresource Technology, 102(19), 9330-9334.
Lacirignola, C., & D’onghia, A. M. (2009). The Mediterranean citriculture: productions and perspectives. Citrus tristeza virus and Toxoptera citricidus: a serious threat to the Mediterranean citrus industry. Bari: CIHEAM. Options Méditerranéennes: Série B. Etudes et Recherches, 65, 13-17.
