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Have you seen trees that offer 2 or 3 different types of apples? Or maybe a peach and plum tree at your garden store and wondered just how they do that?

It’s all done by grafting branches onto an existing rootstock, and it’s something that you can do at home. Today we will go over different varieties of fruit trees that can be grafted together, and how to do it. 

Generally speaking, there are lots of different fruit trees you can graft together, like stone fruits such as peaches, plums, and nectarines.

You can also graft various citrus fruits on one tree such as oranges, lemons, and limes. The trick to grafting is to use trees that are similar to one another! It can get pretty wild.

My family once had a citrus tree that carried 5 different citrus plants on one tree. Limes, lemons, oranges, tangerines, and Meyer lemons, but it was a very expensive tree. You too can graft such a tree yourself all while saving valuable yard space and money. Keep reading to learn how you can do it!

What Even Is Tree Grafting, Anyway?

Grafting is the process of taking a branch or a few branches and attaching them to a different tree to get either different colors of flowers—think roses—or different kinds of fruits on the same tree. 

The process takes small branches, also known as scions, and inserts them into either the trunk or other branches of an existing tree, known as the rootstock. When successful, the new branch is grafted onto a tree and from there it gains nutrients and water from the tree and will eventually produce fruit or flowers, becoming part of the tree!

Sometimes grafting is used to keep a certain type of tree alive, or to keep a tree producing the same quality fruits. If you plant seeds from a tree, you never know if they will grow into mature plants, or if they will produce the same quality fruits. 

With grafting, you can take the high-quality fruit tree, graft a branch and grow it into an exact copy of the parent plant that still produces the same great fruit. It helps to take away the guesswork and saves time compared to growing trees from seed. 

Why Should You Graft Different Trees?

There are several reasons why grafting trees might make sense. Grafting will save space in your garden and offer variety. Maybe you have a few fruit trees, but one is doing really well in producing plenty of fruit, while a few more just never seem to produce much.

If you have a lot of trees and want to keep them growing, grafting can be a way to keep the same tree growing indefinitely. Grafting can also save time compared to growing fruit trees from seeds and waiting for them to be mature enough to start producing fruits. 

Some plants, especially fruit trees cannot be economically reproduced by seed. This is because hybrid fruit seeds will grow back into their ancestral trees. 

Meaning the lush, fleshy, full apples you get from the market, will most likely grow into hard, small, and nearly inedible fruits if you plant them straight from the seed. In this way, grafting is essential to keep growing the same high-quality fruits we are accustomed to. 

Graft To Save Space In Your Garden

Say you have a granny smith apple tree in your yard that makes some great apple pie or cobblers, but they are a bit too tart to eat straight off of the tree. Instead of buying a honey crisp tree, a golden delicious tree, or other varieties and taking up your entire yard with different apple trees, you could graft a few branches to your granny smith tree and still have different varieties of apples from the same tree. 

It also makes sense to graft your own trees rather than buying pre-grafted trees from your garden center. You get to choose what varieties of fruits you are looking for and what you will be more likely to consume. 

Don’t have a garden? Never fear, just bring your tree indoors! Check out our article on the 7 easiest fruit trees to grow indoors.

Keep Your Tree Growing, Even After Its Prime

Trees don’t live forever. They can live for hundreds of years, but most fruit trees only produce fruit for 10 to 20 years. If you remember that apple tree in your grandmother’s yard, it may not be producing good fruit any longer. 

If it was grafted, however, it could continue to produce fruit and live on as a new tree producing the same fruit you remembered as a child.

You can do the same to your own fruit trees. If they look like they’re about to reach the end of their fruiting careers, take a cutting from that tree and graft into a newer rootstock and you basically have a new clone of your old, fading tree. 

Grafting Saves Time

Compared to growing fruit trees from seeds, grafting can save years of time. When planting trees from seed, you could possibly be waiting 10 to 20 years for that tree to start producing fruit, and even then, the fruit it produces might not be very good.

When you graft branches from a mature tree, you know what the fruit will be like, and it only takes about 2 to 3 years before it starts producing fruit. 

I know, you’re still looking at a handful of years and a lot can happen in that time, but compared to waiting decades, I can wait a few years for homegrown fruits in my own backyard.    

Grafting Offers Variety

Although we already touched on this, it bears repeating. Also, you don’t only have to stick to apple trees to have different varieties. You can even graft some varieties of pears to your apple trees. 

Do you have a peach or plum tree? Why not have both? If you have a stone fruit tree you can potentially graft any other stone fruit to that tree such as apricots, nectarines, white peaches, or other kinds. 

What Fruit Trees Can I Graft Together?

Don’t get too carried away here and think you could have a ready-made fruit salad tree! You won’t be able to graft citrus, apples, plums, cherries, and mangoes together. The trees do have to be in the same family and have similar cell structures or they won’t take. 

Most woody plants (trees and shrubs) will take to being grafted, but it can be difficult without the proper amount of skill and education.  

Graft Citrus Together

Remember the citrus tree with five different fruits on it? They were all citrus trees, that’s why they worked so well. There are a lot of varieties here, you could have grapefruit, pummelos, kumquats, or tangerines, mandarins, and navel oranges. Whatever you could think of, as long as they are still citrus trees. 

Learn more about citrus tree care by taking a look at our article all about pruning your orange tree and other care tips.

Apple Trees Varieties Are A Match

You go to the local farmer’s market or grocery store and notice an ever-increasing lineup of apple varieties, well, these can all be grafted together too. You’ll know if a graft takes because after a few weeks, either it will take and start growing, or the scion will die off. 

Stone Fruit Trees Get Along Well

These trees include soft, fleshy fruits that contain hard, stone-like pits in the middle, encasing a seed. Peaches, nectarines, plums, apricots, and cherries, are all considered stone fruits, and they can be grafted interchangeably. 

Graft Multiple Types Of Pear Trees

You can graft all kinds of different pears to each other including Asian pears, and quince. You might be able to graft apple and pear trees together as well but that requires some experimentation. 

You Can Even Graft Persimmons

Persimmon trees can produce a lot of fruit, but unfortunately, they can only be grafted inside the family of other persimmons. You do still have variety here as you can graft American persimmon, Oriental persimmon, and the date-plum together.  

Can I Just Graft Any Old Trees Together?

This answer is both yes and no. Whereas you can graft nearly any of the same two trees together, you won’t be able to graft say a pine tree with a fig tree.

You can graft apples to apples, oranges to oranges, and figs to figs, but don’t get excited thinking you’ll be able to create a mashup of an avocado and a mango tree I’d affectionately call an “avocango” tree!

If you’re grafting at home, keep your experiments to trees of similar types to prevent a lot of disappointments. 

Another thing to take into consideration when you decide to start grafting is your hardiness zone. You’ll still need to stick to trees that grow well in your zone. For example, if you live in the south where the summers can be quite hot and humid, your cold-loving plants most likely won’t survive the harsh heat and vice versa. 

How To Graft Your Trees The Right Way

There are several different ways to graft your trees, but we will keep it limited to three of the most popular and easier ways.

Grafting overall isn’t particularly easy, but once you get the hang of it, the biggest obstacle will be seeing if the pieces accept each other. There may be many things that keep your graft from growing properly and we will go over some of these possibilities.

The Right Time To Start Your Graft

You want to start grafting in the early spring after frost is no longer a threat, right about when your rootstock is starting to sprout new leaves. This gives the tree time to heal before summer sets in and all growing slow down. The spring is when trees do most of their growing and a great time for them to heal. 

Pick Your Tree To Graft

You want to start with a rootstock that isn’t too young or too old, but this also depends on how you are going to graft your tree.

This is assuming you have a tree that is established, is at least 5 to 10 years old, and possibly bearing fruit already. 

You can graft an entire, sapling, or tree to a root ball, but that’s a bit advanced and has a higher chance of failure, so in the interest of keeping things simple we won’t go into that in this article. 

When choosing your tree, you don’t want to start grafting the fruit tree you just purchased from your local garden center. You should have a tree that is established for a year or two.

When you plant a new tree, it really needs time to settle in, get its roots into the ground and be a well-established tree before you start cutting wounds into it. 

Pick Your Scions

When picking the scions (branches) you will be using for grafting, you should do this before the tree comes out of dormancy. This is usually done before you start grafting, and you will need to store them properly for a few weeks.

Look for straight branches that do not have any other branches going perpendicular. They need to be about pencil thick in diameter, and about 12” to 18” long. Water sprouts work great for scions, and since they normally get cut off during trimming, why not place them where they will be useful?

Since it’s probably too soon to graft them into place, you’ll need to store your scions. Use food-grade storage bags to store them and add a damp paper towel or damp sphagnum moss in the bag with the scions, and place them in the refrigerator; the crisper drawer works great here. 

You’ll have to store these until your rootstock begins to open up and fluff out their new leaves. Depending on where you live this could be as early as March or into late April. Just make sure your scions are not too wet or get dried out. 

Materials Needed For Grafting

When you begin grafting you’ll need a few tools to get started.

You’ll need things such as:

• Sharp pruning shears
• Loppers or fine-toothed saw
• Razor knife
• Gloves
• Grafting tape or electrical tape
• Wax tree sealant (optional depending on what kind of grafting you are doing)

You can use the MESTUDIO Grafting Tool Set, it has literally everything you need to start grafting on your own, including professional grafting pruners and grafting tape! For your sealant wax, we recommend using Walter E. Clark Trowbridge’s Grafting Wax, which has great reviews and will be perfect for your grafting projects.

A quick note here about taping your graft. Grafting tape works the best here because you won’t have to go back and cut it loose. It is made to hold long enough for the graft to fuse together, then it begins to deteriorate and fall off.

If you use something like electrical tape, you will have to remember to cut it loose so that it doesn’t act like a tourniquet and strangle your new graft. 

We’ve got even more for you to learn along your tree journey! Check out our article: Full Mango Tree Lifespan (And How To Grow Them)!

Cleft Grafting

Before cutting into your trees or removing scions, we want to make sure all of your cutting tools are clean, rust-free, and have been disinfected, this will ensure a clean and healthy cut.

A cleft graft is probably the easiest grafting technique to do. In a nutshell, you cut your rootstock branch straight and flat, cut a cleft into it, whittle down your scion, and shove it into the cleft, then seal everything up. 

With a cleft graft, you could potentially graft a few different branches into the same rootstock, if your rootstock is much bigger than your scions but we will stick with one right now. Once you have the hang of it and become a seasoned professional, you can attempt the multi-cleft graft. 

First off, find a branch about an inch thick on your rootstock where you will add your graft. Using sharp loppers or a fine-toothed saw, cut the branch off as clean and straight as you can.

Next, using your razor knife, carefully cut a straight cleft into the rootstock about an inch and a half deep. Take care here not to cut yourself or slice a large chunk off of the tree. If you rock your blade back and forth, you will have more control in your cleft cut.

Now you’ll take your scion, using your sharp knife, cut the end of your scion into a flat wedge. Cut on one side, then the other side evenly to make a flat wedge shape. This end you will insert into the cleft you made into your rootstock. You have now grafted your tree, but you’re not done yet. 

Use your sealing wax to seal the wound, then wrap it well with your grafting tape.

Now you can stand back and admire your handy work. 

Depending on the size of the tree, if you’re willing to keep going you could graft another place or two onto the same tree.

Be sure not to do more than 3 or 4, just to keep from opening up too many wounds on your tree, especially if it’s a younger specimen. 

Whip Grafting

Whip grafting is done at the same time in the growing season as cleft grafting is done, but this works with branches that are about the same size in diameter. Whip grafting typically does less damage to the tree than cleft grafting. 

Start off by finding a branch on your rootstock that’s the same diameter as your scion, then you have a couple of options here. You can cut it straight off with a single slice, or you can cut a v-shape into it, but your scion has to be cut to fit into the v-shape.

Either way, once you have your rootstock and scion cut and the pieces meet up together well, wrap them together with your tape nice and tight so that the scion doesn’t bend, or fall off. The better they connect, and stay connected, the better they will mend. 

There is no need for sealant wax here, as the tape wraps everything tight and keeps the area free from the elements.  

Bud Grafting

You’ll need a steady hand and a sharp knife for bud grafting. Here you will be cutting out a small section instead of cutting out an entire branch, then replacing that section with a bud from your donor tree.

This method works well with citrus plants.

On your rootstock, you’ll cut a shallow slice where you want the graft to go. You’re cutting just below the bark area in a shape as close as possible to your bud piece and vice versa. Also, leave a small flap of loose bark that the bud will be tucked into. 

From your scion or donor tree, find a section that has a bud starting off but not opened up yet. Patience and precision are key, as you want to slice a small piece of the tree, including the bud off of the donor.

Start above the bud, slice down past the bud, but not all the way through. Next at the bottom where you stopped cutting cut the bud free leaving a little wedge at the bottom of the bud piece. 

The bottom should be able to rest inside the loose flap of bark on your rootstock. This helps to hold the bud graft in place. 

Be careful not to touch the open, cut areas of the bud graft. Also, you don’t want to break off the tender bud, because it won’t grow back.

We know you got this though! You want to make sure your pieces line up as close as possible. Trim them if needed. Once they fit well, wrap it with your grafting tape. 

Wrap the entire piece up with several layers of tape. Keep the wrapping snug but not terribly tight, you don’t want to damage the bud. Keep this area and the tender bud in the shade for a few weeks if at all possible as this keeps the sun from drying out the graft. 

Then after three or four weeks, remove the tape and check your progress. The tree should have swollen up and incorporated the bud into the branch. 

Where Can You Get Grafting Scions?

If you don’t have a wide array of fruit trees to experiment with, it might be hard to start grafting your trees, so where can you go to find viable scions? Your local garden superstore might not appreciate you “trimming” their fruit trees and buying several trees just to get some foot-long scions could get expensive. 

Seek out friends and family if they have fruit trees they’d be willing to share with you. Maybe you could trade scions, then you’d both have some hybrid fruiting trees. You might be able to find some viable options in the wild, but I wouldn’t hold my breath looking for fruit trees in the wild. 

Did you know you can find viable scions and even rootstock online? Do a quick online search if you have no other options, or check with your local nursery. They might even be willing to sell you a few if they have them in stock. 

Just be mindful of what kind you purchase, and make sure your scions are either native to your area or are hardy in your growing zone. 

How Long Does It Take The Tree To Heal?

It may take anywhere from 4 to 6 weeks for your graft to heal, and most of the growing season for it to truly strengthen. During that time, it’s best not to trim your tree. Let it grow on its own, and you can always trim it next year if it needs it. 

During this time, the tree could certainly benefit from a dose of fertilizer to help stimulate more growth. Look for organic fertilizer that is safe for fruits and vegetables, since you will be eating the fruits once they are ripe and ready. 

Another consideration to think about, when grafting, you might want to tag your branches so you know what fruit will be coming from those branches, and just in case you forget and trim the grafted branch too much. We don’t want all your hard work gone in one accidental snip!

Read all about the full timeline of growing a lemon tree in our article to get better sense of how long you’ll have to wait to enjoy the fruits of your labor!

There You Have It!

You want to keep the varieties of trees you graft together as close to the same family as possible, also while keeping the rootstock and scions to your hardiness zone. It may take a few tries to get the technique down, but with practice comes perfection. 

Now you know all about grafting; why it’s done, the practical uses, which fruit trees you can graft, and even how to graft fruit trees yourself. Go out there and start experimenting; make your own Franken trees with different fruits and have fun!

Want to learn more about trees along your tree journey? Check out our article 7 Best Fruit Trees for Rocky Soil (And How to Plant Them)!

References

Goldschmidt EE. Plant grafting: new mechanisms, evolutionary implications. Front Plant Sci. 2014;5:727. Published 2014 Dec 17. doi:10.3389/fpls.2014.00727

Habibi F, Liu T, Folta K, Sarkhosh A. Physiological, biochemical, and molecular aspects of grafting in fruit trees. Hortic Res. 2022 Feb 19:uhac032. doi: 10.1093/hr/uhac032. Epub ahead of print. PMID: 35184166.

Melnyk CW. Plant grafting: insights into tissue regeneration. Regeneration (Oxf). 2016;4(1):3-14. Published 2016 Dec 21. doi:10.1002/reg2.71

Mahama, A. Assibi; Sparks, Brian; Zalesny, Ronald S., Jr.; Hall, Richard B. 2006. Successful grafting in poplar species (Populus spp.) breeding. In: In: Seventh biennial conference of the short rotation woody crops operations working group: short rotation woody crop production systems for wood products, bioenergy and environmental services; 2006 September 25-28; Pasco, WA.

Overall cacti are slow-growing plants. This is because they grow densely, the soil they live in doesn’t have much nutrition, and there is very litter water in most desert landscapes.

That being said, there are a few exceptions as some cacti grow relatively fast.

Some of the fastest-growing cacti in the world include the Peruvian apple cactus which can grow 2 to 4 feet per year and the blue myrtle cactus which may grow up to 3 feet per year.

By most plant standards, this growth can be a lot, but for a cactus, this growth rate is quite exceptional!

In general, most cactus plants only grow about an inch per year. However, some cacti can grow to towering heights even though they grow so little year after year. This is because many cacti—like trees—can live for hundreds of years.

What Are Cacti?

Cacti are succulent, flowering, perennial plants that have herbaceous trunks and stems, and generally don’t have broad leaves. They usually have sharp, thin spines or barbs that are actually modified leaves.

Leaves are mostly absent from cacti because they can lose too much water. To perform food-producing photosynthesis, the cactus has chlorophyll-containing cells in the trunks and stems.

Cacti have hard-walled, waxy-coated, succulent stems that store water and perform photosynthesis. They have spines instead of leaves which lose a lot of water because it evaporates quickly through them.

Most cactus species have shallow, wide-ranging roots that are able to absorb superficial moisture. They range in size from small, stumpy balls, to imposing giants such as the iconic-looking saguaro cacti.

Where Do Cacti Grow?

Most cacti live in dry arid deserts but there are some that actually live in tropical and subtropical areas. Cactus plants can be found as far north as British Columbia and Alberta Canada, and as far south as Chile and Argentina.

Cacti and some succulents are native to North, Central, and South America. They can be found from Canada to the bottom edge of South America. Cacti and many succulents are native to the new world and can be found from Canada’s plains to the southern tip of South America.

To find the largest variety of cacti, head to Mexico, as this country has the most different species. A few species of cacti can be found in Madagascar, Sri Lanka, and East Africa.

The desert has more than just cacti! If you want to learn more about desert plant life, take a look at our article on 12 trees that can grow in the desert.

What Kind Of Cacti Are Native To The US?

If you live on the eastern side of the United States, you have probably seen the prickly pear cactus. This is one of the few native cacti found in the lower 48 states. Most of the other species are native to the lower, western states.

The prickly pear cactus is a low-growing, mounding cactus that has large, flat, “paddles,” covered in long, thick spines. They produce green or purple edible fruits that you may find in some grocery stores.

There are nearly 200 different species of cactus in the United States, but most of them live in six western states. Cacti you might find in the western desert states include the organ pipe cactus, the tall saguaro cactus, the cholla (pronounced choy-ya) cactus, and different species of barrel cactus.

Which Cacti Will Grow The Fastest?

There are some cacti that grow so slowly you may not notice that they’ve grown at all for years. While this can be fun for some gardeners, I personally like to grow plants to see them increase in size, thrive, and sometimes, multiply.

Below, we have included 9 of the fastest-growing cacti and where you can grow them in your yard!

1. Argentine Saguaro

Also known as the cardon grande cactus or by the scientific name Echinopsis terscheckii, this fast-growing cactus can tower up to 25 feet tall, and grow 6 to 8 feet wide. It looks very similar to the typical saguaro, but they don’t get as large.

The Argentine Saguaro can be kept in a pot but it will only grow as large as the pot allows. The great outdoors is where these cacti shine and reach their full potential. Given plenty of sunlight and ample water and fertilizer this cactus can grow up to 18 inches per year.

Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix is a fertilizer-fortified, fast-draining soil mix great for your cacti. It can be used in pots or in the ground where you need better drainage.

In the summer, this cactus grows a profusion of white flowers that bloom at night. Moths and bats may visit the flowers to drink the nectar. The flowers will usually last most of the day before shriveling up and falling off.

Like all cacti, this one needs very well-draining soil but it can be watered a little bit more often than most cacti prefer. Be sure to plant this cactus in full sun.

The Argentine Saguaro does best in Zones 8 to 11 and is only cold hardy to 18° F.

These majestic cacti make amazing focal pieces. Put it in a prominent spot in your yard and then landscape a beautiful desert-like oasis around it.

2. Pereskia Or Rose Cactus

The Pereskia is a tropical plant that doesn’t look so much like a cactus. It has leaves and black or brown spines and grows more like a shrub, but it is a true cactus. These cacti are native to the West Indies and southeastern South America.

Also called the rose cactus, Pereskia grow two to three feet per year, with the fastest growth in their first year or two. They can get up to 20 feet tall, but typically top out around 5 to 7 feet tall.

The rose cactus blooms in the summer and produces pink or purplish-pink flower clusters followed by small pear-shaped fruits.

It’s hardy in Zones 10 to 11 and likes organic, well-draining soil. This cactus—because of its tropical nature—prefers a little bit more water than typical cacti. Water it when the soil dries out, and let it stay drier in the winter months.

They can withstand cold temperatures down to 25° F. Anything below that and the rose cactus may not survive.

This tall growing plant makes a great focal piece. Be sure to give it plenty of sunlight as they need full sun.

3. Blue Column Cactus

Another fast-growing cactus that can reach heights of up to 30 feet tall, this cactus is usually blue or grey in color instead of green. It’s a very popular cactus among nurseries and garden centers. Yellow spines compliment the bluish stems.

Pilosocereus pachycladus can grow a foot to 2 feet per year. Straight from the nursery, this cactus is usually a singular stalk, but given time it can grow more stalks and even produce tube-shaped flowers.

These cacti prefer desert conditions. They like it sunny, need sandy, very well-draining soil, and only want to be watered when the dirt has dried out.

The blue-column cactus comes from Mexico and South America and prefers temperatures at or above 70° F. They can even withstand temps when they climb into the triple digits, but they don’t like to be cold. Frost will be the end of pilosocereus.

Try not to let it get below 50° F. Zones 9 to 11 are the best zones for this heat-loving plant. Plant this cactus outside only if you have very warm winters. Otherwise, you might want to keep it contained in a pot so you can move it inside when it gets cold.

4. Walkingstick Cactus

Other names include the spiny cholla, cane cholla, or cylindropuntia spinosior. These spiny cacti can grow 3 to 5 feet tall and wide. They have thin stems that grow faster than most other cacti.

They can be from greyish-green to purple and can sprout red, yellow, or white flowers. The walkingstick cholla cactus blooms from late spring to early summer.

They require plenty of bright sunlight and a well-draining, sandy soil. They benefit from watering about once a week during the summer, but let the soil dry out. In the winter they only need very little water, but they are cold hardy up to -20°F.

The walkingstick cactus will grow in Zones 5 through 11.

It’s Not The Same Cholla

You may have heard of the jumping cactus or jumping cholla. You know, that insidious cactus that seems to attack hikers in the desert with scores of spine-covered knobs. That dangerous plant is called the teddy bear cholla.

Sometimes called the “most dangerous plant in America,” the teddy bear cholla doesn’t actually jump at you, but if you get close enough to brush up against one, you’ll never forget it.

It will send needle-sharp spines into you that are difficult and painful to remove. The spines are so springy that they can bounce back onto you. This characteristic gives the segments the appearance of jumping at you.

They also have multiple backward-pointing barbs on the spines that make it feel like you’re pulling out fish hooks.

The walkingstick cholla is related but does not have the same habit. Parts of the plant can break off when it’s disturbed, but the spines usually are not as long and are definitely not springy.

Give this cactus plenty of room. The joints can be fragile and will fall off when it’s disturbed. You don’t want to be digging underneath it and have one fall off and land on your back. It would make a great specimen or focal piece in your landscape.

5. Pereskiopsis

These plants look more like succulents than cacti. Though technically cacti are succulents, not all succulents are cacti.

Pereskiopsis is another tropical cactus that prefers humidity and rich, organic soil instead of a dry, sandy growing medium. When potting these plants you should use about three parts organic potting mix, with a one-part mixture of perlite, gravel, pumice, and sand.

MDPQT 5 QT Professional Grade Horticultural Organic Perlite will help add drainage to thick soils. Mix this into the regular potting mix to help water drain out faster, and allow the roots to get extra oxygen.

These cacti are heavy feeders, and like more moisture than typical cacti, but they still don’t like wet roots. If the soil isn’t draining well, root rot could set it.

Hardy in Zones 10 and 11, these plants can only handle temperatures down to 35°F.

These cacti almost never flower, and even in the wild rarely ever produce seeds. They do take very well to cuttings, however. Many owners end up with several pots of these plants when they learn how easy it is to propagate them.

Pereskiopsis is the fastest-growing cactus as it can grow up to a foot or more per month! Some people have reported 5 to 6 inches of growth in a single week.

You may have more planting options with this type of cactus as there are more varieties of plants that prefer a richer soil. But you may want to keep these cacti contained to a pot or border as they can easily take over.

6. Peruvian Apple Cactus

Cereus peruvianus is a fast-growing, very tall cactus that is often spineless. It’s called the Peruvian apple cactus because of the oval-shaped, edible, purple fruits that grow on the stems.

The fruit is said to resemble the inside of a dragon fruit with a soft, sweet, creamy texture with crunchy seeds.

This cactus can get very tall (up to 30 feet) and spreads out by growing more long stems up into the sky. Some of the stems can grow to a width of 8 inches in diameter.

Long, thin flower buds shoot directly off the tall stems, and the flowers open up at night. In the wild, bats often visit these flowers for a drink of nectar.

Native to South America, this cactus prefers a very sandy soil and infrequent watering, along with plenty of sunlight. Plant this cactus in an area with exceptional drainage and full sun.

They are hardy in zones 8 to 11 and reduce watering in the winter. For your hard work, these cacti will grow up to 2 to 4 feet per year.

These cacti are definitely a focal piece because of how big they can get. If you’re planning on harvesting the fruits, place them in your backyard. When people realize how tasty these fruits are, you might find some missing.

7. Mexican Fence Post Cactus

Pachycereus marginatus resembles pipe organ cacti except they don’t get quite as large, though they can still reach up to 20 feet tall. They produce columnar trunks that look similar to fence posts.

Some gardeners cultivate this cactus to make a living fence because of their grouping, and upright growing habit.

Native to Mexico, and more accurately the states of Hidalgo, Queretaro, and Guanajuato, this cactus can grow up to 3 feet a year. In the spring the Mexican fence post cactus sprouts pink to red flowers followed by yellow, orange, or red fruits.

The Mexican fence post cactus is drought tolerant and prefers sandy soil. Let the ground dry out before watering it again and this easygoing cactus will last years for you.

It’s hardy to 25°F and will grow outside in zones 9 to 11.

These cacti would look great as a backdrop to smaller plants or do your own living fence. Put it against an already existing fence so you don’t have to do as much weed trimming.

8. Blue Myrtle Cactus

Myrtillocactus geometrizans is an odd little cactus. It starts out growing like most typical cacti by sprouting a single columnar stem, but as it ages it grows more shrublike. Often people describe it as looking like a candelabra.

At full height, they can get up to 16 feet tall, and just as wide or wider depending on how many branches they sprout. While they grow well outside, this cactus takes well to indoor life very well.

They are really great for those who have never cared for a cactus before, as they are quite forgiving. It needs plenty of light and loves the heat.

You may see white flowers in the spring, but they only last a day before dropping off. The good news is after they flower, they produce little edible fruits that are often eaten in Mexico where they are from.

The blue myrtle cactus will grow in zones 9 to 11 but won’t handle temperatures below 25°F. You need well-draining, sandy soil, and only need to water them when the soil is nice and dry.

They can be propagated by cuttings. Cut a stem close to the junction, then allow it to dry out for 2 to 3 weeks. Next, put the cutting in a sandy soil and water it once.

Wait for the soil to dry completely before watering again, and repeat this process. Keep it in a warm place with plenty of indirect sunlight, or partial shade until it is established and shows signs of new growth.

9. Silver Torch Cactus

Native to Bolivia and Argentina, the silver torch cactus looks like a fur-covered plant. This cactus grows a little slower than many of our other contenders on this list, but can still manage around 6 inches per year.

Fully grown the silver torch cactus can reach up to 10 feet in length. Though they’re covered in silvery hair, they still have sharp spines all along their length.

To add to the visual interest, this cactus (Cleistocactus strausii) may produce magenta-colored flowers in late spring through early summer.

Drought tolerant, the silver torch requires plenty of sunlight and a well-draining soil. Water it when the soil dries out during the summer, but scale back the water in the winter. They are cold-tolerant to the mid-20s and grow well in zones 9 to 11.

These cacti can make great focal pieces or work well to contrast smaller cactus plants. With the showy, fibrous hairs, it’s a great conversation starter.

Which Cacti Should I Plant In My Yard?

What kind of yard do you have and what are you looking for in a cactus? Do you have a large area with very sandy soil? Or is your yard a low-lying area that often has pools of water after the rain?

Most cacti will quickly root rot in thick, loamy, clay soils. You’ll need to add a lot of sand, gravel, or other soil amendments for yards that have heavy, moisture-rich areas. You may opt for container gardens if your soil is heavy.

Are you looking for a large focal piece, or would you rather have a small desert garden to add visual appeal? Do you have a big yard or a small plot? Here are a few options for planting cacti in your yard.

Fast-Growing Cacti For Focal Points

The cactus that will definitely be a conversation piece and an amazing sight would be the Argentine Saguaro. Similar to the mammoth saguaro, but not quite as big, these will definitely add a Southwestern vibe to your yard.

You’ll need a large area for this cactus to truly shine but it’s definitely a stunning piece once it’s mature.

Other, stunning individual specimens would include the Mexican fence cactus, Peruvian apple, and blue myrtle. These cacti can be amazing stand-alone specimens.

The walking stick cholla can make for an amazing focal piece as well, but I personally like the look of these with a few other, smaller cacti near it.

Which Cacti Work Well In Small Gardenscapes?

Most of these cacti will stay small if you keep them confined to pots. Creating a desert garden with various-sized cacti in different pots can look like a masterpiece.

But, if you want to grow several of these specimens together you still can do so. You’ll end up doing some trimming to keep some of these giants in check though.

Try putting up a few walking stick cholla, silver torch, and pereskiopsis together for an interesting cactus garden. You’ll have to divide the soil or put the pereskiopsis in a pot though because they like more moisture and more organic matter in their soil.

Use Your Imagination

You aren’t limited to these cacti only. There are hundreds of other, slower-growing varieties that will complement these fast growers. The prickly pear cactus can grow nearly anywhere and makes a great border.

There are dozens of barrel cacti that grow low to the ground and look like prickly balloons. These will compliment the tall, columnar cactus and help to fill in the lower areas of your garden.

If you are landscaping in the desert, you aren’t limited to just cacti! Check out our article on the 12 fastest growing desert trees for more ideas.

That’s A Wrap!

On the whole, cacti are slow-growing succulents. This is because they don’t receive much water, and the moisture they do get, they hold onto it like a leprechaun guarding his lucky charms. They also live in areas with very little nutrients in the soil.

The cacti included in this article are relatively fast-growing, so you won’t have to wait decades to notice new growth. They can be grown indoors or out, but they will live much longer with the proper care in an outdoor habitat.

So, get out there and grow some cacti. They’re no longer just for Arizona. 

References

Hernández‐Hernández, Tania, et al. “Beyond aridification: multiple explanations for the elevated diversification of cacti in the New World Succulent Biome.” New phytologist 202.4 (2014): 1382-1397.

Fleming, Theodore H., and Alfonso Valiente-Banuet, eds. Columnar cacti and their mutualists: evolution, ecology, and conservation. University of Arizona Press, 2002.

Bobich, Edward G., and Park S. Nobel. “Vegetative reproduction as related to biomechanics, morphology and anatomy of four cholla cactus species in the Sonoran Desert.” Annals of Botany 87.4 (2001): 485-493.

There’s not much that’s better than sitting under a shady tree on a warm summer day. The leaves make a pleasant rustle as a cool breeze trickles by, and the warm rays of the sun dapple the ground. What’s not easy is picking the right shade tree for your backyard.

Generally, easy to plant shade trees for your backyard should be fast-growing, hardy, and offer plenty of shade.

Trees such as the tulip tree, linden tree, various oaks, and sycamore trees check those boxes! You don’t want a tree that makes a mess, has invasive roots or can be felled by a slight breeze.

While there are literally hundreds of trees you can choose from, not all of them make great shade trees. Even though they are sold at the nursery, it doesn’t mean they are well-behaved trees.

In this list, we have 11 easy-to-plant shade trees that require very little maintenance once they are established, and won’t become a nuisance.

1. Tulip Trees Are The Fast-Growing Giant

Hardiness Zones	4 to 9
Best Soil Type	Moist, well-drained. Hardy once established
Average Height	70 to 80’ tall
Average Spread	40 to 50’ wide

When you have a lot of open space and you’re looking for a tree that can drop some shade quickly, the tulip tree has you covered. Sometimes called tulip poplar, yellow poplar, or whitewood, this tree is actually in the family of magnolia trees.

These trees are so named because of the light yellow or orange, to cream-colored flowers they produce that look much like the popular spring bulbs.

In the spring, these flowers create an interesting contrast against the broad, dark green leaves.

These trees attract plenty of birds, squirrels, and pollinators. You’ll help out the local ecology when you plant these trees.

Tulip Poplars Grow Quickly And Get Big

Tulip trees can grow over two feet per year, meaning in ten years, you’ll have a tree that’s over 20 feet tall. They will keep this incredible growth rate for most of their lives. You’ll need a lot of space for these trees though because they can get quite tall.

These trees usually grow to 70 or 80 feet tall with a wide canopy that can stretch out over 50 feet.

They have shallow roots that can be difficult to mow around and can make it challenging to plant under them.

But we understand wanting a tree with which roots won’t be a problem! Head on over to our article about shade trees that won’t give you root problems, to help you find find the right tree for you!

Tulip Trees Are Very Low Maintenance

The tulip tree grows with a single trunk and many branches that shoot off the main trunk. Because of this habit, it won’t require much in the way of trimming. The most you’ll have to do is just trim off dried-up, no longer viable limbs.

Tulip poplars are also very healthy trees. Most insects and illnesses don’t bother messing with these giants.

With that comes one exception, aphids.

Aphids Are Problematic For Tulip Trees

Aphids like to attack tulip trees, but they rarely do much damage. The tree is such a quick-growing and strong tree that it can easily shrug off an aphid infestation and grow back better the next year.

The biggest problem you’ll have from the aphids is the honeydew they drop as they are feeding.

The aphids can cause tiny, sticky droplets to fall everywhere underneath the tree’s canopy.

Uses For Tulip Tree Lumber

During the United States’ early, formative years, the tulip tree was used by pioneers to build houses and barns.

Now, these trees are mostly used for plywood, timber, furniture, and cabinets to name a few uses.

Where To Plant Tulip Trees

As we have already established, tulip trees get massive. You won’t want to plant these trees in most urban settings. You will need to give the tulip tree plenty of space so it can spread without competition.

Keep it away from fences, outbuildings, and of course your house. You’ll also have to pick a nice sunny spot because these trees are sun lovers. When they grow with other trees, they try to shoot up past all the others, if they don’t they will end up suffering and becoming unhealthy.

2. Linden Trees Are Great For Honey And Bees

Hardiness Zones	3 to 8
Best Soil Type	Prefers well-drained moist soil but tolerates most soil types
Average Height	50 to 60 feet
Average Spread	20 to 40 feet

Linden trees have been popular trees in landscapes for many years.

When these trees are planted in urban neighborhoods, they fill the streets with a sweet perfume in early summer.

Many species of these trees have romantic-looking heart-shaped leaves. Pair these leaves with the fragrant flowers and you have a wonderful summer picnic tree.

Bees Love Linden Trees

In the wild, when linden trees reach the end of their lifecycle, the hollows are often filled with honeybees and heavy combs filled with sweet honey.

Bees also love flowers because of how much nectar they can gather from the large trees. Even lumber is often used to make the frames for beehives.

Linden Tree flowers are also used in the perfume industry and can make delicious tea. Check out Buddha Teas Organic Linden Tea for a floral, sweet-tasting tea that’s as relaxing as chamomile.

To sweeten your linden tea, try out Breitsamer Honig Linden Raw Honey. This honey is light, very sweet, and may have hints of peppermint hiding in its unique bouquet. Use this linden flower honey to sweeten your teas and pastries, or simply load it onto warm, freshly baked bread.

Linden Trees Can Tolerate Tough Conditions

These trees grow so well in urban landscapes because they can tolerate the most punishing conditions once established.

They love moist, well-draining soil, but as long as they are cared for during the first year or two after planting, they can grow well in poor soil, and deal with plenty of pollution.

They are medium to large trees, growing up to 60 feet tall and spreading up to 40 feet wide, but they can be trimmed to maintain compact growth.

The wood and branches are tough and springy meaning they tolerate even the strongest of winds. Linden trees, even though they grow pretty large, rarely fall over or lose branches in heavy storms.

More Benefits To Linden Trees

These trees can grow from 18 to 24 inches in a year. You’ll end up with a strong, fragrant, hardy shade tree in a few years.

The linden tree doesn’t have a super dense canopy. It actually lets in a little bit of sunlight, enough to let some grasses grow without a problem.

If you don’t want to worry about what can grow underneath your trees, the linden tree lets you grow shady grasses easily.

One major downside to linden trees is that they can get QUITE messy.

Japanese Beetles Are Sometimes A Problem

There aren’t many pests that bother the linden tree once it’s established.

You may have to deal with Japanese beetles when the tree is young, and aphids tend to like the linden tree. These pests are relatively easy to deal with, and once the tree is a few years old, it can handle these insects without problems.

The linden tree puts on a bright yellow display in the fall. It’s a pretty tree in the spring, produces fragrant showy flowers in the summer, then produces a bright yellow show in autumn. This is one easy-to-grow shade tree that puts on a show three seasons out of four.

3. Sycamore Trees Has Unique Camouflage Bark

Hardiness Zones	5 to 9
Best Soil Type	Rich, loamy soil
Average Height	40 to 100 feet
Average Spread	40 to 70 feet

The American sycamore tree can be found as far north as New Hampshire and Ontario, Canada, and as far south as Florida and Texas. Through western spread, you can find varieties of sycamore trees in Nebraska and even in states such as Arizona and New Mexico.

Other names for the American sycamore include American plane tree, buttonwood, and water beech. The most distinguishing features of this tree are the mottled camouflage-looking bark and the seed balls that hang on the tree until mid-winter.

When trees grow, the outer protective covering—the bark—has to stretch and fill in to keep the growing layers covered. On the American sycamore, the bark is unable to stretch, so it sloughs off in pieces and grows back. When it does this, it gives the tree its camouflaged look.

Older sycamores can grow into massive trees with wide trunks. The trunks on sycamores usually split into secondary trunks a few feet above the ground, with branches and leaves high up.

They can grow up to 70 to 100 feet tall, with a spread from 60 feet to 80 feet wide under optimal conditions.

Sycamore’s wide leaves look similar to sugar maple leaves, and some varieties of this tree drop the “whirligig” seed pods called samaras. This is because the sycamore is a genus from the maple tree family.

A Sycamore Tree Is Perfect If You Have A Lot Of Space

The growth pattern of the American sycamore tree starts off looking rather pyramidal, but over time, the tree spreads out forming a rounded, but irregular crown of deep shade.

If you have a large space needing a ton of shade, the sycamore tree may be the one for you.

Sycamore trees usually grow up to two feet per year under ideal conditions and can live for hundreds of years.

If you plant one of these trees in your yard, it will be there for generations.

Cool Shade With A Habitat For Wildlife

If you love to watch wildlife, then you should plant a few sycamore trees. These trees support an abundance of birds, beneficial insects, and other wildlife.

Many birds including chickadees, finches, and dark-eyed juncos eat sycamore seeds. Other birds that like to frequent these trees include the large pileated woodpecker and barred owls. These two big birds eat pests like mice and harmful insects.

Being that sycamore trees are related to maple trees, they produce a sweet sap that many woodpeckers enjoy.

Along with the seed and insect-eating birds, you’ll probably end up with numerous woodpeckers as well.

Sycamore Trees Attract Insects As Well

Sycamore trees tend to attract aphids, but this also brings in aphid predators such as ladybugs and hoverflies.

Hoverflies look and sometimes act like wasps, but they are harmless, and actually are beneficial insects.

Of course, squirrels love sycamore trees too. They will nest in the hollows, and eat the seeds, so if you love watching the antics of these acrobatic critters, you’ll get plenty of enjoyment as they skitter through the mass of leaves and branches.

You’ll Need Lots Of Space For Sycamore Trees

These trees are often planted in residential areas along streets and in parks and recreation areas.

They are tolerant of pollution, wind, and poor, compacted soils, so they make great shade trees in areas where other trees would struggle.

These trees are also used to help control soil erosion and shore up hillsides and near wetlands. The wide, spreading roots help to anchor soil and hillsides.

They are often found in wetlands, so if you wanted to help control erosion near a stream or river, a sycamore might be the perfect tree.

Since they can become so large, they need a lot of space to truly spread out. You’ll want to make sure you don’t have any buildings, sidewalks, or septic systems nearby when you plant these trees. Their roots can extend well beyond the canopy and will raise sidewalks and walking paths, or clog septic drain lines.

Though if you have a wide open area that requires shade, or you’re having trouble keeping your soil from getting washed away every time it sprinkles, think about the sycamore.

Sycamore Pests And Problems

One insect that can cause damage and stress to even the mighty sycamore tree is the sycamore leaf beetle. It is a small, black, bumpy insect that often resembles animal droppings.

Often these insects don’t bother healthy sycamore trees, so if you happen to see these pests, it may be because your tree is already stressed.

Luckily, unless it’s a severe infestation, this nasty-looking bug doesn’t cause much harm to the tree. While they are feeding on the leaves, it can look unattractive, but they usually make a full comeback the next year.

Anthracnose Is A Common Sycamore Tree Problem

Sycamore anthracnose is a serious illness that can disfigure these trees.

Anthracnose is caused by a fungus that affects tree leaves. It usually spreads by wind and rain when infected spores are passed from one tree to another.

Anthracnose causes defoliation. The trees that contract this disease typically drop their leaves and grow new ones. Anthracnose shows up as damage to the veins of the leaves which can spread to small twigs. This can cause shoot blight and cankers along small branches.

Anthracnose fungus tends to break out when prolonged mild temperatures are met with a wet and rainy season. The fungus tends to clear up if the average daily temperature is above 60° F (15° C).

Sycamore Trees May Require Some Clean-Up

Since sycamore trees can get so large, they will drop a lot of leaves in the fall. These leaves can get rather large as well. Meaning if you typically bag up your leaves every fall, a sycamore tree is going to require a lot of extra raking time.

However, if you simply let the leaves decompose, or you mulch them into your yard, you’ll create some extra nutrients for these trees, which could help to keep them healthier.

You may want to wait until early spring or late winter before you start your clean-up of sycamore trees. The seed balls like to hang around until mid to late winter.

If you like to naturalize your landscape though, sycamore trees are beneficial trees to lots of wildlife.

4. Elm Trees Are Making A Comeback Across America

Hardiness Zones	4 to 9
Best Soil Type	Tolerates most soils
Average Height	40 to 60 feet
Average Spread	30 to 50 feet

Early in the 20th century, millions of elm trees were planted across residential areas. Elm trees are fast-growing, shade trees that can tolerate nearly any soil condition, no matter how poor. They also seem to thrive along polluted streets while helping to clean the air.

By the 1960s, cities, and counties across America were tasked with removing sickly and failing elms because they were struck with a fatal fungus. Dutch elm disease was introduced by the European elm bark beetle when it crossed the ocean from infected trees.

For decades, elm trees seemed to be on the decline because of the one-two punch of beetle and fungus, but with the hybridization of the elm tree with resistant species, the American elm is making a comeback.

You can now find dozens of insect and fungus-resistant elm species at many nurseries!

Are Elm Trees Right For You?

Elm trees exemplify the “set it and forget it” mentality. Once you plant it in the ground, you can very nearly just sit back and watch it grow.

Elm trees can grow in nearly any soil condition. They will thrive in heavy clay soils, just as well as they will grow in sandy, fast-draining dirt. As long as they find ample water, these trees can grow up to six feet in a year!

In a very short time, and with very little maintenance you will have a large, robust shade tree.

They Are Pretty Low-Maintenance

These trees don’t require trimming, but if you need to take some off the sides and top, they take very well to heavy pruning.

Most varieties of elm trees have small leaves and small seeds, so there is very little cleanup, even when they drop all their leaves in the fall.

It’s just not recommended to plant them near drain lines, sidewalks, or buildings because the roots will cause damage near these structures.

How Big Do Elm Trees Get?

Elm trees reach an average size between 40 to 60 feet tall, but they have been known to reach over 100 feet in height.

Their canopy spreads out widely, often in a pleasing, shade-forming, fountain shape.

Depending on how tall elm trees grow, the canopy can spread as wide as 80 feet.

The trunks on these trees often consist of several smaller trunks fused together or branching off from the main trunk. You’ll want to give these big trees plenty of room to stretch out.

Other Elm Tree Benefits

Throughout history, the elm tree has been utilized for its lumber. The wood is strong and very flexible, despite the fast growth rate.

It’s this characteristic that makes elm wood ideal for wooden longbows. For centuries, elm trees have been used to make bows. Especially when yew trees were not available.

The lumber from elm trees has also been used for shipbuilding. The wood works well even when it stays submerged permanently. This means the bottom ridge of the boat—the keel—was often made of elm wood.

Elm Trees And Wildlife

The tiny flowers of the elm trees are very beneficial to honeybees. These also attract butterflies and moths, more beneficial pollinators that need our help.

Elm seeds provide food for many bird species such as chickadees, purple and Eastern goldfinches, as well as the rose-breasted grosbeak.

Yellow-bellied sapsuckers feed on the sap just under the bark of elm trees, and many other species nest in the branches.

5. Red Maples Offer Beautiful Autumn Color With Plenty Of Summer Shade

Hardiness Zones	3 to 9
Best Soil Type	Prefers acidic, moist soil.
Average Height	40 to 70 feet
Average Spread	40 to 50 feet

The red maple tree is a stunning specimen to behold in the fall. They often grace landscapes with bold crimson foliage when the days start to shorten, and the temps gradually decrease.

Red maple trees are great shade trees in the summer that can tolerate most soil types and thrive in full-sun areas.

They often have a rounded growth habit, but they can be quite variable. I have a red maple in my backyard that looks like a spade shovel head, with branches nearly touching the ground.

Other red maples grow on a tall singular trunk with big rounded canopies. It really depends on the tree itself. Though it takes well to prune if you are looking for a certain shape, just try not to cut the top off.

Requirements For Growing Red Maples

Red maple trees grow best in slightly acidic soils that are often moist.

They compete heavily with other plants for moisture. Once they are established though, the red maple is relatively drought tolerant.

While acidic, moist soil is ideal for red maples, they can and often do grow in nearly any other soil type. They like rich loamy soil, but do well in clay, and sandy soil as well. Under clay and sandy dirt, you’ll need to water them occasionally so they don’t get too dry.

Red Maples Provide Color Year Round

For an easy-to-grow shade tree that has a yearly interest, you can’t go wrong with the red maple.

In the spring the tree bursts forth with small clusters of red flowers before the tree buds.

The leaves soon follow and start off red-tinged before turning green. In the fall the leaves erupt with varying shades of red, depending on the specific variety. Even in the fall, the red maple has red branches.

Red Maple Maintenance Requirements

Red maples are fast-growing trees, they can grow from 18 to 24 inches per year. While many trees that grow this fast tend to be brittle, this isn’t the case for red maples. Their wood is still strong, and they rarely drop branches.

If you plant your red maple in lower-lying areas where water likes to accumulate, you’ll rarely have to water it. During times of drought, you will need to water your maple more frequently.

This species of maple requires very little pruning. You can let them grow how they please without needing to prune them except for branches that are no longer growing.

Most red maples don’t need much fertilization. They aren’t heavy feeders, but if you do decide to offer some supplemental feeding, just use a multi-purpose fertilizer once every couple of years.

For more information on maple trees, take a look at our article on why maple trees make amazing shade trees.

6. You Can’t Go Wrong With The Mighty Oak Tree

Hardiness Zones	3 to 10 depending on species
Best Soil Type	Tolerant, but likes well-draining soil
Average Height	50 to 70 feet
Average Spread	Can be as wide as the tree is tall

Oak trees are some of the most popular shade trees in America for good reason. They are strong, provide plenty of shade, and are easy to grow. There are several different species to choose from.

Whether you’re looking for a tall growing straight tree, or you want a sprawling oak with broad interesting branches, there’s an oak tree for you.

In the United States alone, there are over 90 different species of an oak tree.

Oak Trees Are Notoriously Low Maintenance

Even when oak trees are young, they require little watering. As long as your area gets regular rainfall, you’ll likely not have to water your oak tree. In fact, it’s best not to over-water them because fungus and root rot can start to set in.

Even during severe dry periods, you’ll only need to water your oak tree about once or twice a month.

Unless you are trimming a young oak tree to achieve a certain shape, mature trees don’t need to be pruned. The only branches that need to be removed are the ones that are dry and brittle. This is just to make sure they don’t fall on their own.

How Fast Do Oak Trees Grow?

This depends on the species, but as a general rule, most oak trees will grow from a foot to three feet per year. When they are young, oak saplings grow much more quickly.

For the first 10 to 15 years oak trees can grow two to three feet per year, then they slow down after that.

Oak trees will continue to grow throughout their lifespan. Some oak trees can live upwards of 600 years, but the average tends to be between 100 to 200 years old.

How Messy Are Oak Trees?

All trees drop leaves, seeds, branches, or needles, so in essence, all trees are messy. Depending on the variety, oak trees can be very messy.

Live oaks for instance drop tiny leaves that are hard to remove, and the trees often are covered in Spanish moss, which can fall in large clumps.

Most oak trees drop acorns along with their leaves. While these small round or oval nuts can feed a plethora of wildlife, they can be a pain to rake up.

With that being said, most oak trees don’t start to drop acorns until they are around 20 years old.

Some oaks like red oak trees only produce acorns every two years. Then again, when the trees get much older, they tend to slow down until they stop producing altogether.

Did you know that you can grow your own oak tree from just an acorn? For a step-by-step guide on how to turn your acorn into an oak tree, check out our article on exactly that!

With the additional mess comes a tree that is extremely hardy, and needs very little in the way of care. If you don’t mind a bed of acorns and leaves, then you’ll have a shade tree that you probably won’t have to worry about for the rest of your life.

7. Ginkgo Trees Have Unique Fan-Shaped Leaves

Hardiness Zones	4 to 9
Best Soil Type	Grows well in most soils, but can’t handle consistent hot temps
Average Height	25 to 50 feet
Average Spread	25 to 35 feet

Gingko trees are some of the most unique and distinctive trees around. They are instantly recognized by their broad, fan-shaped leaves and compact growth habits.

These trees seem to be made for urban habitats and can withstand most soil types. They are at home in acidic and alkaline soil, as well as sandy fast-draining soil and heavy clay soils. The ginkgo tree doesn’t let pollution or salt keep its spirits down.

The flat, fan-shaped leaves turn a golden yellow in the fall. They have a nice habit of dropping all their leaves in a short period. Unlike most deciduous trees that take months to lose all their leaves, the ginkgo likes to do things all at once.

How To Grow A Ginkgo Tree

As long as you give a ginkgo tree dirt—nearly any kind will do—water, and plenty of sunshine it will thrive. Seriously, this tree is so easy to grow, even those without “green thumbs” can.

When you first plant it, drop in a little bit of fertilizer and keep the soil moist and you will soon have a great, unique shade tree.

Once they have settled in and their roots are growing well, these trees become drought-tolerant. While they don’t do well in hot, arid climates like the Southwest, desert states can grow in many other areas that are relatively humid.

Ideal conditions for ginkgo trees are rich, loamy, well-draining soil, with regular rainfall, and at least four hours of direct sunlight.

You won’t need to prune your ginkgo either. These trees don’t grow very tall, getting to about 50 feet tall max, and they tend to stay in a compact growth habit. Some people prune their ginkgo trees to maintain a certain shape, but it’s not a necessity.

I Heard That Ginkgo Trees Stink, Is This True?

That’s right, some ginkgo trees have a notorious reputation for smelling worse than a skunk after eating too much Taco bell. Fortunately, you can avoid having your yard labeled as the “Bog of Eternal Stench” by planting male ginkgo trees.

Female ginkgo trees put out a strong aroma when they start fruiting, so plant a male tree and you avoid the ripe feet smell.

Most nurseries only sell male ginkgo trees now, and some of these trees have been bred to be sterile.

When choosing a ginkgo tree, just make sure you get a male tree. Unless that is, you’re trying to keep your neighbor from coming over to borrow your hedge clippers again.

Ginkgo Trees Have More Than Just Unique Leaves

In more ways than one, the ginkgo tree is a unique relic. They have remained unchanged for hundreds of millions of years, and are sometimes called the living fossil. Add to the fact that the ginkgo tree is literally in a class of its own, and you have a very unique shade tree.

The ginkgo tree is the last living relative of the order Ginkgoales. All the other species in this order went extinct millions of years ago. While they are cultivated all over the world now, you can truly say you have a unique tree when you plant your own ginkgo.

8. Dogwoods Are Compact But Provide Many Seasons of Beauty

Hardiness Zones	3 to 8
Best Soil Type	Moisture-retentive, loamy soil
Average Height	25 to 40 feet
Average Spread	15 to 25 feet

In the spring and sometimes the summer, dogwood trees are instantly recognizable. They are covered in four-petaled flowers with green clusters in the middle. The flowers range in color from white, to yellow, or pink and red.

In the late fall and winter, most dogwoods produce small red berries that many bird species will eat, especially migratory birds.

Other animals that may visit your dogwood for red berries in the winter include squirrels, deer, rabbits, and possibly even black bears.

These trees don’t grow very tall but they can provide plenty of shade in small areas. They also show off pleasing colors most of the year. For a full list of smaller-sized shade trees, make sure to head on over to our article about the fastest-growing small shade trees, for a smaller outdoor space!

Requirements For Healthy Dogwood Trees

These trees don’t typically like full sunlight. Instead, they prefer morning sun and afternoon shade.

Luckily you can plant these on the northern or eastern side of your house to meet those requirements. Dogwoods don’t get very tall, so they don’t need to be planted as far away from your house as an oak tree, plus, you don’t have to prune them often.

Dogwoods will need supplemental watering during dry periods, but they don’t do well in low-lying wet areas. Making sure it’s watered regularly is the most care your dogwood will need.

Dogwoods Are Great Shade Trees For Small Spaces

Most dogwood trees only grow to about 20 to 30 feet tall and spread 10 to 20 feet wide.

Though under the best growing conditions, they can reach heights of 40 feet or more and get as wide as 25 feet, most will not get that big.

Dogwood trees have a moderate growth rate. They grow between one to two feet per year. It may take longer to get a good base of shade from a dogwood, but the spring flowers might make up for the wait.

If you don’t have several acres to plant giant oak trees, elms, or other looming giants, you might want to opt for a dainty, unassuming dogwood tree.

9. Ash Trees Are Under Attack

Hardiness Zones	2 to 9
Best Soil Type	Grows well in most soil types
Average Height	50 to 80 feet
Average Spread	40 to 50 feet

Ash trees are remarkable trees that grow tall and wide. They tolerate nearly any soil type and don’t need much in the way of care. The big problem is they are under attack by an introduced beetle that is quickly decimating ash tree numbers.

Because of the Emerald Ash borer, an insect that was brought over from Asia, these trees are not recommended in many states.

The adult beetle bores into the tree and lays its eggs. When they hatch, the larvae tunnel through the living tree tissue. When this living tissue is severely damaged, the trees eventually cease to live.

For a more in-depth look at why ash trees make amazing shade trees – head on over to our article!

Where Can Ash Trees Grow?

If you have dirt on your property, and you live in zone 2 through 9, then you can probably grow ash trees. Ash trees prefer rich, moist, loamy soil, but they can do well in clay, sand, and compact soil, and they can survive in slow-draining wet soil.

It doesn’t matter if your soil is acidic, alkaline, or neutral, an ash tree can handle it. As long as this tree gets plenty of sunshine and water, it can grow nearly anywhere.

The only care this tree need is to be watered during long dry spells. There is no pruning needed unless you are removing non-growing branches. Just keep a close eye on it for the emerald ash borer.

Recognizing Emerald Ash Borer Damage

There are several symptoms related to this beetle. The leaves and branches can begin to fade away before the fall, you may notice a lot of woodpeckers or a lot of growth at the base of the tree.

The most significant sign is small ⅛” to ¼” D-shaped holes.

These are exit holes from the beetle after it has evolved from the larval stage. If you see these holes, you might want to call an arborist to confirm.

Sometimes, your ash tree might succumb to pests or other ailments. If you are worried about your ash tree, take a look at our article on the 5 reasons you may have to cut down your ash tree.

Ash Tree Benefits

Aside from showering you with cool shade in the hot summer months, these trees provide shelter and food for many animals. They can even feed tadpoles if they are planted near a water source.

Ash trees can be gorgeous in the fall. The leaves start to turn yellow, and continue to darken to orange, maroon, and then a deep purple color. It’s really an amazing show.

These trees are quick-growing specimens. The fastest species of ash, the green ash tree, can grow over two feet per year. If you’re planting these trees from seed, that means in ten years you could have a tree that’s over 20 feet tall.

Ash lumber is strong as well as flexible. That’s why it’s such an important wood for making baseball bats, hockey sticks, oars, bows, and much more.

10. Dawn Redwoods Are The Dinosaurs Of The Trees

Hardiness Zones	5 to 8
Best Soil Type	Deep, rich loam
Average Height	40 to 100 feet
Average Spread	20 to 30 feet

Dawn redwood fossils have been found in North America, right along the dinosaurs. These prehistoric trees were even thought to have been extinct until they were rediscovered.

According to the University of Kentucky, the dawn redwood was thought extinct for over 5 million years.

Though it was rediscovered in 1944 in China in the Szechwan Province. For two years scientists were unable to explore due to the war, but in 1946 a grove of over 1000 redwoods was found.

Not As Big As California Redwoods

The dawn redwood won’t get as tall as the giant California Redwoods which can easily reach heights over 300 feet tall. The dawn redwood tops out at a mere 100 feet tall and about 25 feet wide. They have a pyramidal growth, the bottom is wide and it gets smaller the higher it goes.

These trees that grew alongside the dinosaurs are fast-growing trees. They can quickly grow to 20 to 40 feet tall and give you over 20 feet of direct shade.

The Deciduous Tree That Resembles An Evergreen

While this tree grows and looks much like an evergreen tree, it will drop its leaves in the fall.

Even the small, soft leaves look like short pine needles, and the dawn redwood is a conifer. It grows small, green, round cones that house the seeds.

The Dawn Redwood Requires Little Care

This tree works well in urban settings where pollution can be higher and is often found along neighborhood streets. Aside from the small cones they drop, the tiny needle-like leaves require no cleanup, so they work well along walking paths and streets.

You won’t need to prune this tree as it grows nearly straight up, and in a conical canopy shape. The only pruning would be to remove old limbs that no longer leaf out.

They prefer deep, well-drained soil, but are tolerant of clay, and some flooding. The dawn redwood, once established, retains some drought tolerance.

11. Magnolia Trees Are The Sweet-Smelling Southern Evergreen

Hardiness Zones	5 to 9
Best Soil Type	Slightly acidic loam
Average Height	20 to 70
Average Spread	20 to 40 feet

The only evergreen on our list today shows up with plenty of extra benefits. In the spring you can smell the sweet fragrance of the large blooms of the magnolia tree. While most magnolia flowers are creamy white, they also come in yellow, pink, or purple colors.

Magnolia trees are moderate to slow-growing trees. Depending on the variety, they can grow no larger than tall shrubs, or soar up to 70 feet in the air. They can spread up to 40 feet wide, offering you plenty of space to hang out in the shade.

Magnolia Trees Don’t Need Pruning

Unless you are looking for a certain shape, or the limbs are severely damaged, magnolia trees don’t need pruning.

Just let them grow and they will spread out and offer plenty of shade.

I have seen Southern magnolia trees stretch out so far the limbs reached the ground and then rooted to grow more trees.

Words simply can do such a sight justice. But it made for a wonderfully cool hideout in the heat of the Southern summer.

Different Varieties Of Magnolia Trees

While some trees, the Southern magnolia, in particular, is an evergreen tree, others are deciduous.

Most of them make great, easy-to-grow shade trees, regardless if they keep their leaves during the winter or not.

The Southern magnolia tree is the tree with the dark, olive green to almost black, broad, thick, and waxy leaves most of us know. While these trees are iconic, and reminiscent of slow, southern summers, they can be a little messy.

A few of the thick leaves drop throughout the year, but most of the previous year’s leaves drop in the spring. Then in the summer, after the flowers are finished, the tree drops the large seed pods. These trees can require a bit of cleanup if you’re trying to keep a tidy yard.

What Kind Of Soil Is Best For Southern Magnolias?

While this tree would prefer rich, well-draining, acidic, loamy soil, most of the time they are stuck growing in thick red clay. Which they tolerate very well.

Magnolia trees can also stand some flooding, but they won’t do so well in constantly wet soil.

They can take the heat, and are drought tolerant, as their natural habitat can be quite dry at times. Just be sure to give it some water during extended dry spells to keep this tree happy and provide you with plenty of shade.

How To Care For Backyard Shade Trees

Now that you have your shade tree picked out, let’s go over how to plant them and make sure they are around for generations to come.

A little bit of prep goes a long way with these trees. All of these trees are easy to care for and require little care once they are in the ground, but the planting part is vitally important.

Aside from the dogwood tree, the others on this list should be planted in a spot that gets plenty of sunlight. These trees will need at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Looking for some southern exposure will usually give your tree enough light.

Plus, if you are looking specifically for fast-growing shade trees, make sure to head on over to our article about the best, and fastest-growing trees for shade!

Make Sure They Have Space

You generally want to plant trees at least 25 feet away from any structure, especially your house. For some of the larger trees here, I’d recommend giving them even more space. When a tree can grow over 50 feet in the air, and spread as wide or more, planting them close is just asking for trouble.

Limbs can fall, or the tree can be knocked over during storms, so be sure to give them plenty of space. Even the strongest trees can be felled by Mother Nature.

Be mindful of sidewalks, driveways, pools, and septic systems. Some trees have shallow roots that can lift concrete causing trip hazards, or have roots that can infiltrate drain lines in their search for water.

Prep The Ground Where You’re Planting Your Tree

You may already know to dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball, but while you’re prepping the hole, have some soil additives ready to add to the hole if you have dense or sandy soil.

Most trees, when they are starting out, need a lot of nutrients to get established.

Make Sure To Dig Proper Sized Holes

When digging holes for your future shade trees, you need a strong shovel able to handle compacted soil, rocks, roots, and whatever else is buried in the ground.

That’s why the Bully Tools 14-Gauge Round Point Shovel will get the job done every time. It has a fiberglass handle and a thick, reinforced shovel head for the toughest of jobs.

Add Peat Moss!

Adding peat moss, or other soil amendments helps to hold moisture and offers plenty of organic matter for your young, growing tree.

You might also want to add a little bit of all-purpose fertilizer to the hole just to give the roots an extra boost.

Water Before Planting

I like to water the hole before dropping it in the tree, but after adding soil amendments and fertilizer.

Fill the hole about halfway full of water, then mix up the dirt with your shovel, then put your tree in the hole and backfill it with dirt.

This makes sure the rootball gets plenty of water, and doesn’t run off instead of soaking into the ground.

Be Careful With The Trunk

When planting your new tree, be sure to keep the new soil level with the root ball.

Don’t bury the trunk deeper into the ground. If the base of the tree is surrounded by dirt and moisture, you might be inviting fungal infections.

The same goes for mulch. Mulch is a great additive to help keep moisture in the soil around your new tree, and keeps the roots cool in the summer, and warm in the winter. Just be sure to leave a few inches free of mulch around the trunk of the tree.

Water Your Sapling

For a year or two after you have planted your tree, make sure it gets plenty of water. For the first couple of weeks, you may want to water your tree daily.

After two weeks, water your tree about two to three times per week, and then once a week for the next year or two.

When watering trees, garden vegetables, or flowers, soaker hoses are your best friend. Spraying the leaves and flowers can cause sun spots, and splashing the dirt up onto the plant can spread infections, so soaking the ground is the best way to water.

With the Holldoor 1/2’’ Soaker Hose, you won’t have to worry when you water your shade trees.

Wrapping It Up

When looking for an easy-to-grow shade tree that shoots up fast, you have several choices. Depending on how much space you have, the amount of cleanup, and your overall appearance, you can’t go wrong with these trees:

• Linden
• Ginkgo
• Dawn Redwood
• Oak trees
• Ash
• Tulip tree
• Sycamore
• Elm
• Southern Magnolia
• Dogwood
• Red maple

Each of these trees needs very little care once the roots are nice and established. Most don’t care what kind of soil they grow in, and many are drought-tolerant. Don’t wait for Arbor day to plant a tree, pick a few out and get to planting!

References

Herms, Daniel A., and Deborah G. McCullough. “Emerald ash borer invasion of North America: history, biology, ecology, impacts, and management.” Annual review of entomology 59.1 (2014): 13-30.

Hubbes, Martin. “The American elm and Dutch elm disease.” The Forestry Chronicle 75.2 (1999): 265-273.

Gressitt, J. Linsley. “The California Academy-Lingnan dawn-redwood expedition.” Arnoldia 58.4/1 (1998): 35-39.

Major, Randolph T. “The ginkgo, the most ancient living tree: the resistance of Ginkgo biloba L. to pests accounts in part for the longevity of this species.” Science 157.3794 (1967): 1270-1273.

Not everyone is that eager to build a bulky fence, but a great many of us are pretty eager to maintain our privacy. It’s nothing against our neighbors, but whether you have an acre between you or just a few feet, you want to enjoy your home without worrying about your neighbors (or passersby) looking in on you – a tree is the best form of privacy!

Some of the best fastest-growing trees for a privacy barrier include Thuja Green Giant, Leyland Cypress, Hybrid Poplar, Weeping Willow, and Silver Maples.

You can count on any of these trees to grow at least 2 to 5 feet every year!

Of course, those aren’t your only options. There are plenty of great, fast-growing trees that you can use instead of a privacy fence.

We have an extensive list of the best trees to grow for privacy, and we’re also going to tell you what you need to know about choosing the right one, and how to grow your choice properly.

How To Choose The Best Privacy Tree For Your Space

Before we get started into which trees we’ve suggested as the best for when you need a privacy screen and fast, let’s look into what should guide your choices before you plant.

Of course, your choice will depend on several factors:

1. Your local climate
2. The amount of maintenance you’re willing to commit to
3. Type of soil
4. The amount of sunlight you have available
5. The appearance you’re looking for
6. The amount of space you’re trying to screen (as well as how much room you have to plant).

Let’s talk more in detail about these below!

USDA Growing And Hardiness Zones

While these might sound like complicated things, USDA hardiness zones (also called growing zones) are more straightforward than you might think.

Once you narrow down your top choices, make sure to do a quick google search on your local hardiness zone! From there, check out your selections’ preferences, and which USDA zones they can grow in.

Maintenance Is Key

Maintaining trees on your property is a necessity, even when you grow low-maintenance trees.

First, consider whether you’re willing to prune your trees just once a year, or if you’re okay with bi-annual maintenance. Of course, that’s also assuming that there isn’t any damage or infections between regular maintenance.

All trees need some maintenance. However, some need significantly less than others.

If you have other trees and use a service, adding some trees or creating a plan for their care shouldn’t be that much extra effort.

In case you plan on doing the maintenance yourself, you need to know what you’re getting into, and how and when to properly prune your tree.

Get To Know Your Soil Conditions

The good news is that no matter what kind of soil you have on your property, there’s almost certainly a tree you can use for privacy fencing (and that you can count on to grow pretty quickly, too).

The key to success in this area is knowing first what kind of soil you have. Is it loamy, sandy, or does it have a high clay content?

Does the soil drain quickly or does it tend to hold a lot of water after a deep watering? And then, you also need to look at your soil’s nutrient content. Although to be fair, you can always use soil amendments and add extra nutrients and fertilizer to better cater to your new trees.

A good general fertilizer for trees is Humboldt’s Secret Golden Tree, so depending on which type of soil you have, you may have to add nutrients with fertilizer to make it ideal for the tree you’d like to plant!

Full Vs. Partial Sun, Explained

A lot of people are confused about what full sun and partial sun mean. Let’s clear it up right now!

Full sun, by definition, is at least six hours of unobstructed, unfiltered sunlight, every day. Partial sun is at least four hours in direct and unfiltered sunlight every day.

Let it be known that for plants that need full sun, six hours of intense sunlight is really considered the bare minimum. Most of these plants are more than happy to get a few more hours of direct sun if you can provide it.

And get this, there are actually tools you can purchase like this VIVOSUN Soil Tester, 3-in-1 Plant Moisture Meter Light and PH Tester, where you can measure the sun in your chosen planting area!

Adding A Screening Area

A lot of the considerations of the screening area are pretty close to the other requirements your tree will need: soil conditions, sunlight, spacing, etc.

However, sometimes you need a line of trees that have enough width to replace a fence entirely. Other times, you may be looking for trees to cover the area above your fence, which isn’t already covered.

If you’re looking for trees that cover the typical area that you would instead place a fence in, look for trees with a wide, bushy growth habit- such as many evergreens.

Other trees, like the silver maple and poplars, are great for privacy screening, and they grow very quickly. However, they grow the majority of their bulk near the top, rather than having it evenly distributed from bottom to top.

Tree Have Different Hardiness And Tolerance

USDA hardiness zones are one thing, but a tree’s overall hardiness and tolerance for other conditions are another things altogether.

Being aware of the stresses and conditions around you is key when you select trees for privacy.

Naturally, there are seemingly endless conditions you may have to factor in. However, you can narrow your concerns down to some of the most crucial.

Here’s a list of things to consider and check trees’ tolerance for:

• Salt – this is especially important if you’re screening large portions of your property from the highway or bodies of saltwater.
• Drought tolerance – it can be difficult to irrigate a large area of screening and even more so if you live in a dry climate.
• Cold tolerance – plenty of trees tolerate cold to a certain extent. However, many trees also lose their leaves as the season’s change. Decide if you’re willing to deal with losing part of your privacy screening for part of the year.
• Soil – it bears repeating that you need to know the kind of soil you have to plant trees in. Some trees will tolerate almost any kind of soil, while others are extremely sensitive.

The good news is that you can usually find a fair balance of tolerance and sensitivity in any kind of tree. You just need to know the conditions you’ll plant in, and find a tree that suits your needs.

What Is The Best Fast Growing Tree For Privacy?

Now you should have an idea of what to look for when you choose trees for privacy. Assess your needs, and the environment you can provide, and you’re on the right track.

Next up, we’re going to dig deeper into the details of each tree on our list. You’ll find a list of fast-growing trees you can use for privacy screening, as well as the conditions you can plant them in, and what types of screening they can offer you.

So, read on if you’re ready to find the right trees for protecting the privacy of your property.

1. Green Giant Arborvitae

Also known as Thuja, the green giant arborvitae is a popular installment for people that want more natural privacy screening.

These are beautiful evergreens with a classic green shade and a somewhat conical or pyramid-like growth pattern. Unlike other evergreens, they have a more distinct, broad bottom that gradually tapers to a tidy point.

These are great if you want to completely replace privacy fencing with trees, and want color and coverage all year long.

Another great thing about using green giant arborvitae for privacy is that they don’t need much space between them to grow healthily. You really only need to give them ten feet at most, and a few feet minimum. That also means that you can get a lot of coverage with very little space between trees.

These trees are pretty hardy and easy to care for. However, they don’t do as well in areas that have significant salt exposure and prefer full sun, although will still grow well in partial sun.

Another thing to note about these trees is their mature size, wherein they can grow up to 60 feet tall and reach a width of up to 20 feet at most, and 12 feet at minimum.

Need-To-Knows About The Green Giant Arborvitae:

• Grows up to 3.5 feet per year
• Very little space between planting (3-10 feet)
• Evergreen, provides color and coverage year-round
• Cold, snow, and ice hardy
• Ideal for zones 5-7
• They are salt sensitive and need well-draining soil, but otherwise very soil tolerant
• Partial sun is acceptable, full sun is ideal

2. Silver Maple

Silver maples are a classic tree, beloved for their leaves, the shade they provide, and their bushy growth habit. You’ll often see them sprinkled throughout public parks, yards, and even lining residential streets.

Another thing people love about these trees is the seasonal color changes that bring light to each changing season.

Something you will love about them is that they grow fairly quickly, and gain at least two feet per year until they reach maturity. Not only that, you don’t need to plant very many to get a good amount of privacy around your yard.

Now, one thing you do need to know is that all maples are deciduous trees. That means that they also lose their leaves in autumn and winter, sometime after the leaves change color.

Of course, the leaves come back in the spring. However, you won’t have the exact amount of coverage in the colder months.

The good news is that these trees still have pretty thick branch growth, so you’re not going to lose all of your privacy coverage.

For a deeper look at how fast your maple tree will go, take a look at our maple tree timeline!

Need-To-Knows About Silver Maple Trees:

• Grow at least 2 feet per year
• Deciduous – they will lose trees in colder months
• Tend to grow large trunks, and large, expansive root systems
• Recommended to grow away from sidewalks, driveways, and roads
• Can grow up between 50 to 80 feet tall, and up to 50 feet wide
• Best with full sun or partial shade
• Tolerates both drought and flooding (to an extent).
• Best growth in damp, slightly acidic soil

3. Weeping Willow

Is there any other tree that quite evokes visual poetry like the weeping willow?If there is, there’s not likely to be one that you can also use as an effective, fast-growing privacy screen quite like this one!

Because of the prolific spread of their drooping branches, not to mention their staggering height at maturity, weeping willows make a particularly effective tree to plant for privacy.

Here’s another great reason to plant weeping willows: they absolutely thrive in wetter environments where you just can’t plant most other trees.

A note of caution, however: you need to be prepared for just how big these trees can really grow, for more information on where they grow best – check out our article where willow trees grow!

Need-To-Knows About Weeping Willow Trees:

• Minimum growth of 2 feet per year, but can grow prolifically, with up to 4 to 8 feet per year
• Grows exceptionally well by water
• Tolerates most types of soil
• Best in full and partial sun
• Loses leaves in colder months (leaves do grow back quickly when spring comes)
• Grows well in USDA zones 6 to 8

4. Hybrid Poplar

Now, let’s talk about the hybrid poplar. It’s by far one of the fastest-growing trees to plant as a privacy screen. In fact, the rapid growth is almost unbelievable. These trees can grow up to a staggering 5 ½ feet per year. Yes, you read that correctly- over five feet per year.

While hybrid poplars don’t have as dense of a growth habit as some of the other trees on our list, they do work as fairly efficient privacy trees.

Ultimately, they can reach up to 30 feet wide and 50 feet tall. And while they are a hybrid of poplars and the classic cottonwood, they don’t produce that troublesome cotton seed that the latter does.

Another bonus! They have an exceptionally large growing zone tolerance. They are equally suited to USDA zones 3 through 9.

While these are all, undeniably, ideal conditions for a fast-growing privacy tree, there are a few small caveats.

It does need full sun, and it’s a little pickier about its soil than some of the other trees on our list. If you can provide full sun, and wet soil, and handle some occasional replanting, it’s hard to beat this tree.

Need-To-Knows About Hybrid Poplars

• Extremely fast growth- from 5 to 8 feet per year
• Doesn’t produce bothersome cotton fluff
• Shorter lifespan, but also useful to grow for firewood and grows quickly once replanted
• Tolerates both acidic and alkaline soils, but needs moist soil
• Wide growing zone, USDA 3-9
• Does need full sun for optimal growth

5. Leyland Cypress

Leyland Cypress trees are another great, and fast-growing tree you can plant for privacy. In fact, these rival the hybrid poplar in terms of the fastest-growing trees on our list.

These are pretty dense evergreens, although they have a more slender shape than you might expect from your typical spruce or pine tree. Leyland cypress trees are ideal if you want thick coverage that lasts throughout the year.

If you’re considering planting a cypress, make sure to check out our article on the common places cypress trees grow, to make sure your cypress will grow nicely in your location!

Beyond just that, the trees are also a great pop of color for your landscape, whether you’re looking at them in the spring or in the dead of winter.

They’re not just good for privacy or color either- they’re also great when you need a windbreak to protect other crops and structures on your property.

These trees grow to be quite large when you allow them to reach maturity (keep in mind that they are pretty popular during the Christmas season). In fact, they can get up to 70 feet tall and reach just between 15 and 25 feet wide.

If you want to plant trees close together, and want a lot of height coverage to give your property privacy from a distance, Leyland cypress just might be the choice for you.

Leyland cypress can also handle just about any kind of soil- including clay and sandy soil. So if you’re struggling to find a tree for privacy that can handle these difficult soils, you’ve found a match here.

It really depends on the conditions you provide it with, but at minimum, you can expect two feet per year. With optimal conditions, you can have trees that grow at least five feet per year.

Guess what else? They’re actually pretty salt tolerant, and they can even tolerate areas with significant pollution.

On the flip side, they do need a lot of sunlight to continue healthy growth.

Need-To-Knows About Leyland Cypress:

• Fast growth habit reaching up to 5 feet per year
• Salt and pollution tolerant
• Grows up to 70 feet tall and 25 feet wide
• Handles a wide range of soils
• Adapted to USDA zones 6-10
• Does need full sun for healthy growth

Leyland Cypress is one of the most common conifers in the USA, and it’s no wonder why with all the great things they offer.

6. Spartan Junipers

If you’re looking for something a little different that still maintains a classic look, spartan junipers are the way to go.

Spartan junipers aren’t the tallest trees on our list, but they do make for excellent privacy shields for your home.

Another nice thing about spartan junipers is their slim, pyramidal growth pattern. Because they only reach five wide at most, and at little as three feet wide, they’re easy to plant in close proximity.

These trees have a distinctly formal appearance, which makes them a favorite for planting along the edges of estates and large expanses of property. They have deep green needles that will last and thrive throughout the year without much maintenance needed on your part.

Find more info on the lifespan of a juniper tree in our article on how long junipers will last.

Need-To-Knows About Spartan Junipers:

• Evergreen offers privacy year-round
• No pruning required
• Drought, cold, and heat wave tolerant
• Ideal for zones 4-9
• Prefers partial shade to full sun
• Will accept most soil, but does need well-draining soil

Remember: Know Your Soil Type

While all of the trees on our list have very positive characteristics, it doesn’t mean you can simply plant one wherever you want– even if you have the right nutrients, sun, and soil.

Some species of trees are considered invasive in certain areas. Basically, this means that they can take over other important native species and therefore damage the natural landscape (and the creatures and plants that rely on the other plants for balance).

Always check to make sure the trees you plant are not considered invasive. And, always check in with a local professional if you need assistance in finding and planting a privacy tree!

That’s A Wrap!

We’ve listed the best, and fastest-growing trees to plant for privacy.

If you’re looking for the fastest-growing shade trees, we also got you covered! Head on over to our article to learn about the fastest-growing shade trees to give you privacy, and shade!

However, you do need to take into consideration your privacy needs (i.e. do you already have a fence, are you looking to replace privacy fencing altogether, or are you willing to sacrifice privacy for coloring for part of the year).

No matter what you choose, make sure that you’re not planting invasive species in your area.

After that, just make sure you have the right conditions to allow these trees to thrive!

Resources:

Griffin, J. J., Blazich, F. A., & Ranney, T. G. (1998). Propagation of Thuja x ‘Green Giant By stem cuttings: Effects of growth stage, type of cutting, and IBA treatment. Journal of Environmental Horticulture, 16(4), 212-214.

Niemiera, A. X. (2012). Leyland Cypress, x Cupressocyparis leylandii.

Peterson, D. L., & Bazzaz, F. A. (1984). Photosynthetic and growth responses of silver maple (Acer saccharinum L.) seedlings to flooding. American Midland Naturalist, 261-272.