Grow Your Landscaping Business with Tree Journey.

Tree Journey equips you with the tools, insights, and strategies to scale your landscaping business. From lead generation to expert resources – we’ve got you covered.

Choosing a tree for your yard or garden can be difficult given the seemingly infinite number of choices you could make. Trees add dimension to any landscape through height, color, and texture. They also stabilize the soil and provide shade as well as a habitat for local wildlife. 

Some of the fastest-growing trees are Weeping Willows, Hybrid Poplars, Red Alders, and American Elms, although there are many other fast-growing trees that you could plant.

These trees will all grow quickly and mature in a relatively short amount of time.

There are many characteristics of each of these deciduous trees other than the growth rate, and we want to help you make the best decision for your own yard!

Read on to discover the 12 fastest-growing deciduous trees, their lifespan, height at maturity, ideal hardiness zone, and the best way to plant and care for them. If you are not sure which tree will work best for you and your landscape, make sure to contact a professional!

What Makes A Deciduous Tree Deciduous?

Sunny autumn landscape with pond in park and trees with yellow autumnal foliage. Deciduous trees.

The simplest way to define deciduous trees is that they have leaves that change color and they lose their leaves in the fall.

Most deciduous trees are broadleaf trees, but there actually are a couple of species of deciduous trees with needles, including Larches and Dawn Redwoods. 

While the rule is that deciduous trees lose their leaves, we all know every rule has an exception. Check out our article to learn about the six deciduous trees that keep their leaves year round.

Deciduous Trees Are Known For Their Beautiful Fall Colors

Deciduous trees are known for their beautiful fall foliage, including red, orange, and yellow leaves that appear each fall.

The reason this change of color occurs is that each winter as the days get shorter and darker, the chlorophyll breaks down. Chlorophyll is used by trees to convert sunlight into energy, and without the light, the trees go into a sort of hibernation. 

As you may guess by their seasonality, many of these trees will grow best in regions with plenty of rainfall and distinct seasons, but many of them are actually quite tolerant of drier, more arid climates. 

The major types of deciduous trees include poplars, maples, and oaks. You are probably familiar with many of these trees, even if you don’t know them by name.  

Which Deciduous Trees Will Grow The Fastest In My Yard?

View of bare deciduous tree tops and the sky looking up from the forest floor.

Deciduous trees can provide beauty, shade, and interest to your landscape. The fall foliage is attractive for many people who are drawn to the beautiful colors of the foliage as the weather changes. 

Keep in mind that some of the fastest-growing trees are relatively short-lived because the wood of fast-growing trees is often weaker. 

Depending on your needs, you may be looking for the fastest-growing tree or just a balance between growth rate and lifespan.

Read on to discover the 12 fastest-growing deciduous trees and their characteristics to help you make the right decision for your landscape.

Fastest Growing Deciduous Trees Ranked: Complete Growth Chart

Here’s a quick summary table on the fastest growing deciduous trees to help streamline your view – you can then keep on reading for a detailed breakdown on each tree!

Fastest Growing Deciduous Trees

TREEANNUAL GROWTHLIFESPANFULL HEIGHTBEST HARDINESS ZONE
Weeping Willow120”30 years50’6-8
Hybrid Poplar96”60 years50’3-9
Red Alder72”100 years70’-120’5-8
American Elm72”300 years70’-120’4-9
Black Cottonwood60"200 years150’5-9
Bigleaf Maple36”300 years100’5-9
Quaking Aspen24”150 years40’1-7
Paper Birch24”160 years70’2-7
Dawn Redwood24”100 years70-100’5-8
Pin Oak24”100 years70’4-8
Ginkgo24”3,000 years50’-80’3-9
White Ash24”300 years50’-80’4-9

1. Hybrid Poplar

  • Height: 40-50’ 
  • Spread: 30’
  • Growth Rate: Between 5’-10’ per year 
  • Hardiness Zone: 3-9
  • Lifespan: 60 years
  • Cold And Drought Tolerance: Not very cold or drought-hardy and prefer temperate, moist climates.
  • Soil: Fertile and moist alluvial soils (loose clay or silt deposited by a river)

Hybrid Poplar trees are fast-growing specimens that are quick to mature and provide shade but are relatively short-lived.

This type of poplar has green, silvery leaves that have a lighter underside. These trees grow quickly in full sun and are usually harvested for firewood within the first ten years of life. 

They are not the most tolerant of species, preferring rich, fertile soil and a temperate climate with plenty of precipitation. Hybrid poplars are also prone to limb breakage and are not a good choice to plant in an area where children or animals will frequently occupy, or too close to buildings and sidewalks. 

2. American Elm

  • Height: 80’-130’
  • Spread: 60’-120’
  • Growth Rate: 3’-6’ per year
  • Hardiness Zone: 4-9
  • Lifespan: 175-300 years
  • Cold And Drought Tolerance: Moderately tolerant of most conditions, though they will thrive in moist soil in full sun.
  • Soil: Well-draining, fertile soil but tolerant of most soil conditions. 

American Elms are among the taller of the elm species. They are well known as common street trees and landscape trees due to their towering form and long lifespan when planted in full sun to partial shade. 

Elms produce small flowers and fruit in the spring and summer and have showy fall foliage that ranges from yellow to deep purple.

American Elms have shallow root systems and so while they are great street trees, they are known to cause some sidewalk lifting and so should have a vault if planted near infrastructure. 

A drawback of the American Elm and any other elm species for that matter is the Dutch Elm Beetle. This pest has devastated a huge percentage of elms in the U.S. and around the world and many trees need to be inoculated.

3. Black Cottonwood

Black cottonwood (Populus trichocarpa) trunks and leaves seen looking up from below
  • Height: 125’-150’
  • Spread: 100’
  • Growth Rate: 5’ per year
  • Hardiness Zone: 5-9
  • Lifespan: 200 years
  • Cold And Drought Tolerance: Moderately tolerant of climates that range from arid to humid, and can tolerate wet winter conditions. 
  • Soil: Cottonwoods prefer moist, deep alluvial soils and are limited by soil acidity and poor drainage and nutrients.  

Black Cottonwood is actually a type of poplar tree and is one of the largest species within this type of tree. Native to the Northwestern U.S., this tree requires full sun and is intolerant of shaded growing conditions. 

Cottonwoods usually grow near streams or rivers, and when grown on their own, take a towering form with a single trunk and significant canopy spread.

Cottonwoods can tolerate a wide array of growing conditions but will not thrive in poor soils, needing nutrient-rich, well-draining soil to thrive. 

Cottonwoods are also prone to limb breakage and as their name suggests, their seeds take the form of fluffy white puff balls. While some find this charming, the trees can be quite messy when they go to seed, so they may not be ideal for the low-maintenance gardener. 

4. Weeping Willow

  • Height: 50’
  • Spread: 35’
  • Growth Rate: 10’ per year
  • Hardiness Zone: 6-8
  • Lifespan: 30-40 years
  • Cold And Drought Tolerance: Weeping willows are not cold-hardy and are moderately drought tolerant.
  • Soil: These trees prefer moist, acidic soils. 

Weeping Willows are known for their long branches that hang low toward the ground almost like a swinging vine.

They are one of the fastest growing deciduous trees, but their rapid growth rate has a trade-off of their short lifespan, only living about 30-40 years.

These trees prefer full sun to partial shade and acidic soils. They are not tolerant of cold weather and have weak wood, meaning they may not be ideal for gardens where children or pets will frequently play. 

Despite their short lives, these trees mature to provide shade quickly and have an iconic silhouette that has inspired poets and visual artists for centuries. The weeping willow is also one of the best fast growing large trees to plant in your yard!

5. Quaking Aspen

  • Height: 40’-50’
  • Spread: 30’-40’
  • Growth Rate: 2’ per year
  • Hardiness Zone: 1-7
  • Lifespan: 150-200 years
  • Cold And Drought Tolerance: Quaking Aspens are typically high-elevation trees that can tolerate cold but are not tolerant of hot, dry conditions. 
  • Soil: Prefers moist but well-draining, nutrient-dense, loamy soils.  

Quaking Aspens are tall but compact trees with leaves that appear darker on top with lighter green undersides. 

The defining characteristic of these trees that give them their name is the long petiole that holds the leaf to the branch. These petioles cause the leaves to rustle in the breeze, giving the trees the appearance of “quaking,” with a lot of movement and a pleasant sound as the leaves move. 

These trees prefer full sun and very moist, acidic soils. Quaking Aspens are long-lived, making them good landscape trees if your yard meets the conditions in which they thrive.

Because they are so long and slender, they might not be the best option if shade is your goal. However, if you are looking for the fastest-growing shade trees, head over to our article to find a list of 19 shade trees to plant ASAP!

6. Big Leaf Maple

  • Height: 50’-100’
  • Spread: 50’
  • Growth Rate: 3’ per year
  • Hardiness Zone: 5-9
  • Lifespan: 300 years
  • Cold And Drought Tolerance: Can be extremely drought tolerant when mature, tolerating climates ranging from temperate and moist to hot and dry. 
  • Soil: Prefers deep, moist soils but will tolerate poor soil conditions, although this may limit its height and spread at maturity. 

Big Leaf Maples provide some of the best fall foliage with leaves that average about 12 inches across and turn colors ranging from bright yellow and orange to deep red.

These trees are tolerant of many different conditions from heavy precipitation to more arid climates but aren’t particularly cold hardy.

Big leaf maples are probably the most shade-tolerant species on this list and can easily be planted in shaded yards.

They are also incredibly long-lived, reaching upwards of 300 years of age. These trees will be the focal point of any yard and are beautiful deciduous trees that will grow in many conditions. 

For more details on maples, check out our article on why maples are some of the best shade trees out there!

7. Paper Birch

  • Height: 50’-70’
  • Spread: 35’
  • Growth Rate: 2’ per year
  • Hardiness Zone: 2-7
  • Lifespan: 140-200 years
  • Cold And Drought Tolerance: Paper Birch grows best with regular moisture but can be drought tolerant. 
  • Soil: Prefer acidic, sandy, clay soils. 

The most defining characteristic of the Paper Birch is its smooth, white bark that peels off in paper-thin strips as it ages. This long-lived species can be drought tolerant and requires full sun to thrive. 

This tree is also commonly planted in landscapes and as street trees because of its distinctive bark and the golden yellow color of its fall foliage.

The Paper Birch tree is very popular with wildlife, attracting birds who feast on its long seed pods in the summer. You may not know it, but there are actually other types of birch trees that don’t have white bark!

8. Dawn Redwood

  • Height: 70’-100’
  • Spread: 25’
  • Growth Rate: 2’ per year
  • Hardiness Zone: 5-8
  • Lifespan: 100-400 years
  • Cold And Drought Tolerance: This is a very tolerant species that can withstand many conditions from drought to high moisture.
  • Soil: Prefer acidic soils of all types from sandy and loamy to wet clay soils.

The Dawn Redwood is the only tree on this list that does not have broad leaves and is actually only one of two needle-bearing tree species that lose their foliage in the fall.

This tree will grow tall and can live upwards of 400 years but does require space to thrive. This means you shouldn’t plant it within a dense stand of trees or other shade plants. 

Dawn Redwoods are an extremely tolerant species that can withstand many harsh conditions from dry, hot summers to cold, wet winters. They require little maintenance, making them a great landscape trees if you have enough space. 

9. Pin Oak

Red oak leaves close up on a branch.
  • Height: 70’
  • Spread: 40’
  • Growth Rate: 2’ per year
  • Hardiness Zone: 4-8
  • Lifespan: 120 years
  • Cold And Drought Tolerance: Tolerant of drought, cold, and pollution. 
  • Soil: Prefers well-draining soil but can tolerate dry, compacted conditions as well. 

Pin Oaks is another showy fall tree that has lobed leaves that turn bright yellow and orange in the autumn months. This tree requires full sun and is actually incredibly drought tolerant, growing in dry, arid climates. 

In addition to climate, this species can also tolerate high levels of pollution, making it a good choice for city landscapes.

It can grow in soils ranging from acidic and loamy to very compacted. Another benefit of Pin Oak is that it provides dense shade and can cool down a very sunny yard. 

There are quite a few other oak trees that grow fast as well! For more information on that, head on over to our other article about the fastest-growing oak trees for an in-depth look!

10. Red Alder

  • Height: 70’-120’
  • Spread: 30’
  • Growth Rate: 6’ per year
  • Hardiness Zone: 5-8
  • Lifespan: 100 years
  • Cold And Drought Tolerance: This species is not drought tolerant and will only grow in temperate, wet climates. 
  • Soil: Can tolerate a wide range of soils but prefers a well-draining sandy, loamy soil. 

Red Alders grow tall and slender with a conical-shaped canopy and leaves with deep ridges and veins.

Alders are actually the only broadleaf trees that produce cones, making them unique on this list and among deciduous trees. 

These trees prefer to grow near water and can tolerate poor-draining soil, but are not drought-hardy and won’t grow well in dry, arid climates.

Because of their fast growth rate and shorter lifespan, they will mature and provide shade quickly and are also great trees to help control soil erosion because of their shallow root systems.

11. Ginkgo

  • Height: 50’-80’
  • Spread: 30’-40’
  • Growth Rate: 1’-2’ per year
  • Hardiness Zone: 3-9
  • Lifespan: Up to 3,000 years
  • Cold And Drought Tolerance: These trees are drought, heat, pollution, and salt tolerant.
  • Soil: Ginkgos can tolerate most soil types that are well-draining, and cannot tolerate oversaturated soils. 

Ginkgos have been around since the dinosaurs, and this prehistoric tree has fascinating fan-shaped leaves that drop quickly in the fall.

They have a high tolerance for many adverse conditions, even withstanding high salinity in the soil which is a unique attribute. 

These low-maintenance trees would be a great choice for landscape or street trees that receive full sun.

The only thing to keep in mind is that the female trees produce fruit that is unpleasant smelling at best, so make sure to get a male specimen to avoid cleaning up stinking fruit each summer.

12. White Ash

  • Height: 50’-80’
  • Spread: 40’-50’
  • Growth Rate: 1’-2’ per year
  • Hardiness Zone: 4-9
  • Lifespan: 300 years
  • Cold And Drought Tolerance: This species is moderately drought tolerant but prefers moist soils.
  • Soil: Can tolerate many soil types from acidic to alkaline, wet, to dry, loamy, and sandy soils. 

The White Ash is unique looking, with long, thin leaves that grow in clusters that turn yellow to deep maroon in the fall. This tree requires full sun but is not the most tolerant and does not thrive in harsh conditions, only moderately drought tolerant. 

A popular landscape tree, the White Ash has recently fallen victim to an invasive pest insect called the emerald ash borer beetle, which targets all species of ash and is widespread across North America and beyond. 

Take care to grow a strong and healthy tree that will be more resistant to pests and other diseases. 

Which Deciduous Tree Is Right For My Yard?

Choosing which tree to plant in your yard is really going to depend heavily on the conditions of your yard. Luckily, we have summarized the ideal growing conditions of 12 types of deciduous trees in this article for you!

Read through each type carefully and then assess the characteristics of your yard!

  1. How much sun does it get?
  2. What type of soil do you have?
  3. Is the climate arid or do you receive a lot of rain?
  4. Are you looking for the tallest tree or the one with the most shade?

If you can answer these questions, you can make an informed decision and choose the tree that best fits your space as well as your needs and wants. 

Use tools to help you assess your yard, such as this SONKIR Soil pH Meter which measures soil moisture, soil acidity, and the amount of sunlight easily.

And hey, if you have a smaller sized yard, you still deserve some nice shade! Check out our article about the fastest-growing shade trees for small yards – so that you can find the perfect tree to fit in your yard!

How To Care For Your New Deciduous Tree

Beautiful multicolored alder leaves with shallow depth of field in the autumn forest

Now that you have chosen a tree, make sure to take special care of it while it is a young sapling.

Young trees are especially vulnerable to extreme temperatures, drought or overwatering, and nutrient levels in the soil. 

Planting A Young Tree

When you plant your tree, dig a hole large enough to have a few extra inches on all sides of the root ball, and plant the tree so that the start of its trunk is flush with the ground, avoiding burying the trunk or leaving roots exposed. 

After planting, make sure to water really well. Right after planting is when your sapling will be most vulnerable, and you want to ensure you avoid stressing it more during this stage of life. 

You can give your tree a solid foundation first and foremost by being diligent in your watering routine.

Especially in the dry summer months, you can use a Treegator Original Slow Release Watering Bag for Trees to ensure the slow, consistent release of water, eliminating the risk of over or under-watering your young tree. 

Protecting Your Tree During Harsh Weather Is Important

During storms, high winds, or even just for extra security, consider staking your tree with KOGEN Tree Stakes Kit. This will also help your tree to grow straight, strong, and tall. 

During the harsh winter months, cover your young tree with old bed sheets or plastic sheeting to avoid frost damage. After a few years, your young tree should be strong enough to handle harsh conditions on its own. 

Check Your Tree For Pests!

Finally, check your tree regularly for pests such as borer beetles, aphids, scales, or other insects that could cause damage to your tree.

If you notice yellowing or browning of the leaves, wilting foliage, branches, or other signs of distress, ensure that you treat your tree for pests using neem oil or other methods of remediation. 

That’s A Wrap!

The deciduous tree is a category that encompasses a wide variety of trees that are all unique in their characteristics and environmental needs.

Making an informed choice about which tree to plant in your own yard should include not only its growth rate but its needs including light, water, soil, and local climate. 

Hopefully, this list has helped you gain a better sense of what deciduous trees there are and what they can offer your landscape. 

Whatever tree you choose will surely add interest, color, and depth to your landscape in addition to trees adding wildlife habitat, erosion control, and carbon sequestration among their many benefits. Thanks for following along!

References: 

  1. Dakis-Yaoba Ouédraogo et. al. (2013) Slow-growing species cope best with drought: evidence from long-term measurements in a tropical semi-deciduous moist forest of Central Africa. Journal of Ecology. 101(6): 1459-1470.
  2. Davey, P.A. et. al., (2006) Can fast-growing plantation trees escape biochemical down-regulation of photosynthesis when grown throughout their complete production cycle in the open air under elevated carbon dioxide? Plant, Cell & Environment. 29(7): 1235-1244.
  3. Fadón, E., Fernandez, E., Behn, H., & Luedeling, E. (2020). A Conceptual Framework for Winter Dormancy in Deciduous Trees. Agronomy. 10(2): 241.
  4. Madejona, P., et. al. (2016) Three-year study of fast-growing trees in degraded soils amended with composts: Effects on soil fertility and productivity.  Journal of Environmental Management. 169: 18-26

There are many amazing plants that grow in hot desert climates, but trees may not be the first to come to mind. Trees, however, provide shade, habitat, and beauty to the landscape, and there are actually more options than you may think when it comes to selecting a tree for your desert landscape. 

When selecting trees for a desert landscape, consider the limitations of the land itself.

Drought and heat are the most limiting factors, but trees that are adapted to this sort of environment, such as varieties of mesquite, Palo Verde, eucalyptus, ash, and ironwood trees can thrive in hot, dry climates. 

When selecting a new tree in the harsh desert climate, a fast growth rate will deliver shade and interest the quickest, however, we always recommend checking in with a local arborist to find the perfect tree for your environment!

What Types Of Trees Grow Well In Hot Deserts?

a joshua tree in front of a desert landscape at sunset

While heat is a major factor in desert-growing tree varieties, the most limiting factor in this environment is actually water.

While the weather is hot, trees cool themselves through a process called transpiration. In this process, much like the way humans sweat, trees lose water through small pores in their leaves. 

Trees can release hundreds of gallons of water this way, and in the desert, the tree can struggle to replace this water due to a lack of precipitation or groundwater. 

Some Adaptations For Desert-Hardy Trees

You may notice that desert-hardy trees often have much smaller, thinner leaves, or thick, leathery leaves.

Both of these adaptations work against drought-like conditions, with smaller leaves losing less water and thicker leaves storing more (kind of like a cactus).

The major types of trees that are adapted to these conditions are members of the pea family, such as palo verde trees and locusts, mesquite trees, and ironwood trees.

There are, however, many other species of tree that will do well in the desert. 

Which Drought-Tolerant Trees Will Grow Fastest In Hot Weather?

Now let’s get specific! While there are many other trees that will grow well in hot weather, an important aspect of planting trees for many gardeners is achieving a mature tree and the shade it brings quickly.

With this in mind, here is a list of the 12 fastest-growing hot-weather trees, and if you’re looking for a full list of trees that grow in the desert, make sure to head on over to our article for a list!

Fastest Growing Trees For Hot & Dry Climates: Complete Growth Chart

Here’s a quick summary chart of the top fast growing hot climate trees! Don’t worry, we’ll give a detailed breakdown below if you want more information on any specific variety.

Fastest Growing Trees For Hot Desert Climates

TREEANNUAL GROWTHLIFESPANFULL HEIGHTBEST HARDINESS ZONE
Desert Gum Eucalyptus6’ per year150 years40’9-11
Chilean Mesquite Tree36” per year200 years50’9-11
California Pepper Tree36” per year50-150 years40’9-11
Shoestring Acacia36” per year50 years30’8-11
Chitalpa Tree36” per year35 years50’6-11
Blue Palo Verde Tree24”-36” per year150 years25’7-10
Desert Willow24”-36” per year40-150 years30’5-9
Honey Locust24” per year120 years80’4-9
Silk Tree24” per year30 years50’9B-11
Arizona Ash13”-24” per year50-150 years40’6-11
Fig Tree12” per year200 years30’6-11
Desert Ironwood12” per year50-150 years30’9-11

1. Desert Ironwood Tree

  • Growth Rate: 12” per year
  • Full Height: 30’
  • Canopy Spread: 15’-30’ 
  • Drought Hardy: Yes
  • Cold Hardy: Up to 25°F
  • Planting Conditions: Plant in full sun in well draining soil. 
  • Lifespan: 50-150 years
  • Hardiness Zone: 9-11

Desert ironwoods are members of the pea family and although they are not the fastest-growing tree on this list, they are quite hardy in both hot and cold weather.

They produce delicate clusters of pinkish-white flowers, creating a beautiful early to late spring display of color. 

In addition to flowers, they produce blue-gray, thick leaves, and edible seed pods which attract all kinds of desert wildlife.

These trees are great shade trees and can be evergreen when watered, but they will shed leaves in periods of extreme drought to conserve water. 

Desert Ironwood is native to the Sonoran Desert in the Southwestern United States, where it was traditionally harvested for firewood and woodworking. 

2. Desert Willow Tree

  • Growth Rate: 24”-36” per year
  • Full Height: 30’
  • Canopy Spread: 30’ 
  • Drought Hardy: Yes
  • Cold Hardy: Yes
  • Planting Conditions: Full sun to partial shade in well-draining soils 
  • Lifespan: 40-150 years
  • Hardiness Zone: 5-9

The desert willow, despite what its name suggests is not a true willow but is named for its resemblance to the original weeping willow with slender leaves and long, low weeping branches. 

The desert willow usually grows with multiple trunks and can be trained as either a tree or shrub depending on how you prune it.

Notably, the desert willow is a great urban tree because its roots will not cause damage when planted close to buildings or near sidewalks.

Probably the best feature of the desert willow is the fragrant pinkish-purple orchid-like flowers that attract wildlife such as hummingbirds, butterflies, and other pollinator species.

These blooms last throughout much of the summer months, bringing long-lasting color to the landscape. 

This tree is tolerant of many conditions and is especially drought-hardy, surviving off of rainwater in even the driest of desert climates, although regular watering will enhance its overall appearance. 

For more information on willows of all kinds, check out our article about willows, weeping willows and more!

3. Silk Tree

  • Growth Rate: 24” per year
  • Full Height: 35’-50’
  • Canopy Spread: 40’-55’ 
  • Drought Hardy: Yes
  • Cold Hardy: No
  • Planting Conditions: Full sun in well-draining soil 
  • Lifespan: 30 years
  • Hardiness Zone: 9B-11

The silk tree is named for the thin, silk-like floss that is produced by the large seed pods which can be up to eight inches in length.

This silk was historically used for textiles, and even to stuff pillows. The silk is not the only useful part of the tree though, with bark that comes off in thin strips that were once used to make rope. 

The silk tree is a great shade tree, with a wide-spreading canopy that is sometimes wider even than the tree is tall. Be careful around this tree, as the young branches have sharp spines. 

The trunk of the young tree is green and can often stay that way through maturity or otherwise will turn gray.

The silk tree is also endowed with pink and white clusters of small flowers that bloom late in the season, toward fall and even winter. 

When considering the silk tree, keep in mind that its roots can be shallow, and are prone to lifting sidewalks or becoming tripping hazards or interfering with the mower when planted in the yard. 

4. Arizona Ash Tree

  • Growth Rate: 13”-24” per year
  • Full Height: 40’
  • Canopy Spread: 40’
  • Drought Hardy: Moderate to yes, with a full canopy
  • Cold Hardy: Yes
  • Planting Conditions: Full sun in well-draining soil
  • Lifespan: 50-150 years
  • Hardiness Zone: 6-11

The Arizona ash, otherwise known as the Modesto ash tree, is a deciduous tree that is native to the Southwestern United States woodland areas but can be adaptable to a desert climate if properly cared for. 

This is a less drought-tolerant species and is prone to burning or trunkscald if the canopy is not robust. Because of this, it is recommended that gardeners keep up with regular watering to avoid damage. 

Despite this sensitivity to heat and light, the Arizona ash does require full sun to reach its potential.

Although it is stated to grow up to 40’ in urban conditions, the Arizona ash has actually been found to reach 70’ tall in California’s coastal range.

Being a deciduous tree, the Arizona ash will lose its leaves each fall and winter, but it is not particularly known for fall color – if you’re thinking about growing an ash tree, make sure to check out our article about how long ash trees take to grow!

5. Chitalpa Tree

whitish-pink blooms of a chitalpa tree
  • Growth Rate: 36” per year
  • Full Height: 30’-50’
  • Canopy Spread: 30’-50’ 
  • Drought Hardy:  No
  • Cold Hardy: Yes
  • Planting Conditions: Full sun to partial shade in well-draining soil, avoid western facing exposure due to danger of trunk scald 
  • Lifespan: 35 years 
  • Hardiness Zone: 6-11

The chitalpa tree is a hybrid of the desert willow, and like its predecessor, features beautiful large, trumpet-shaped flowers. The flowers bloom in late spring and can persist even through early fall. 

This North American native tree is fast-growing but is not the hardiest of species on this list.

The chitalpa tree has a sparse canopy which can leave it prone to trunk scald and issues related to heat when exposed to too much sun. 

It is best planted in full sun to partial shade away from direct western sun exposure. Additionally, this tree may require supplemental watering throughout the dry summer months.

Well-draining soil is a must because of the chitalpa tree’s propensity for developing root rot and powdery mildew.  

6. Desert Gum Eucalyptus

  • Growth Rate: Up to 6’ per year
  • Full Height: 50’
  • Canopy Spread: 50’ 
  • Drought Hardy: Yes
  • Cold Hardy: Moderate
  • Planting Conditions: Full sun in well-draining soil
  • Lifespan: 150 years
  • Hardiness Zone: 9-11

The desert gum eucalyptus is without a doubt the fastest-growing tree on this list, growing as much as six feet per year in the right conditions.

It also features a strong upright shape and wide, full canopy, making the eucalyptus a great shade tree and windbreak in exposed landscapes. 

Native to Australia, this tree has rough, blue-gray bark and small ovate leaves and blooms in small clusters of whitish flowers, but is not particularly showy. 

Once a very popular landscape tree, the desert gum eucalyptus has fallen somewhat out of fashion, largely due to the fact that it is a messy tree, creating significant leaf, flower, and seed litter. 

7. Honey Locust

  • Growth Rate: 24” per year
  • Full Height: 70’-80’
  • Canopy Spread: 20’-40’
  • Drought Hardy: Moderate
  • Cold Hardy: Yes
  • Planting Conditions: Full sun, adaptable to most soils except particularly heavy soils 
  • Lifespan: 120 years
  • Hardiness Zone: 4-9

The honey locust tree is sometimes described as having a delicate shape, with thin, spreading branches and delicate compound leaves.

In keeping with its shape, the honey locust is a bit more particular about its environment, prone to suffering from issues of heat, humidity, and poor soil. 

This tree does have thorns, so be careful when performing routine maintenance.

The honey locust puts out long seed pods that attract birds and other wildlife but can be messy as they fall to the ground. 

The honey locust is actually part of the legume family and is a nitrogen-fixer, so is a good choice in poor soils, where it will actually replenish much-needed nutrients as it grows. 

8. Fig Tree

  • Growth Rate: 12” per year
  • Full Height: 30’
  • Canopy Spread: 30’ 
  • Drought Hardy: Moderate
  • Cold Hardy: Yes
  • Planting Conditions: Full sun, tolerant of most soil conditions  
  • Lifespan: 200 years 
  • Hardiness Zone: 6-11

The fig tree is adaptable to many different environments and can do well in a hot desert climate as well as wetter, colder environments. It is a hardy tree, capable of growing in even poor soils. 

Possibly the most appealing feature of this tree is the fruit it puts out in late summer.

Figs are actually not technically a true fruit, but swollen stems containing seeds and flowers called inflorescence.

These trees do prefer regular watering but are tolerant of most other external conditions. Because the fig tree’s reproduction depends on new growth, all pruning and maintenance should be done during its winter dormancy. 

For a deeper look at why fig trees love the sun so much, check out our article on the five reasons to grow fig trees in full sun!

9. California Pepper Tree

pepper tree fruits on the branch of a pepper tree with long, thin leaves
  • Growth Rate: 36” per year
  • Full Height: 40’
  • Canopy Spread: 40’ 
  • Drought Hardy: Moderate
  • Cold Hardy: Moderate
  • Planting Conditions: Full sun in well-draining soil
  • Lifespan: 50-150 years
  • Hardiness Zone: 9-11

The California pepper tree is another fast-growing tree that provides plenty of shade with its widespread canopy and sweeping, low-hanging branches (think weeping willow!) 

The California pepper tree is a fragrant tree, from its compound leaves to the yellow-green flowers and fall and winter fruit.

Each part of the tree is aromatic, making this a pleasant feature in the landscape or garden. 

These trees can be more high-maintenance, requiring regular pruning and staking when the tree is young to train the tree into an appealing shape.

You may want to invest in some tools, such as these THANOS A1101 Extendable Anvil Loppers Tree Trimmer to keep up with removing the suckers that tend to grow around the base of the trunk.

Avoid planting this tree in grass lawns or turf, because it is prone to yellowing foliage and other issues if inundated with water, prefer well-draining soils. 

10. Chilean Mesquite Tree

  • Growth Rate: 36” per year
  • Full Height: 50’
  • Canopy Spread: 100’ 
  • Drought Hardy: Yes
  • Cold Hardy: Moderate
  • Planting Conditions: Full sun in native desert soils
  • Lifespan: 200 years
  • Hardiness Zone: 9-11

The Chilean mesquite tree is an ideal shade tree for dry climates, growing tall and with an especially wide-spreading canopy. Its growth rate is water-dependent, so a well-watered sapling will readily exceed 3 feet of growth per year to reach its full height. 

It is actually not recommended that you continue to irrigate mature trees, and they will actually grow best relying on infrequent desert rains alone. 

Native to the desert, the Chilean mesquite actually grows best in unamended desert soil, and will not do as well in lawns or turf, where the abundance of water will lead to weaker wood.

Because of the tolerant and low-maintenance nature of this tree, the Chilean mesquite is a popular desert landscape tree, often used in parks as well as parking lots and landscapes. 

11. Palo Verde

Yellow flowers with red stamen cover the branches of a tree with small oval leaves
  • Growth Rate: 24”-36” per year
  • Full Height: 25’
  • Canopy Spread: 30’ 
  • Drought Hardy: Yes
  • Cold Hardy: Yes
  • Planting Conditions: Full sun, adapted to desert soils but tolerant of most soil types
  • Lifespan: 150 years
  • Hardiness Zone: 7-10

The blue palo verde is an iconic feature in the deserts of the Southwestern United States, with its trademark smooth, green bark and fine, spreading branches. This tree puts out a showy spring display of bright yellow flowers. 

While native to the desert and the poor soils that are native to the area, this tree can actually do well in lawns and turf, tolerant of wetter soils. 

Although the blue palo verde tree is deciduous, losing its leaves during the colder winter months, the green trunk and branches give this tree the appearance of being evergreen and they provide color all throughout the year. 

12. Shoestring Acacia

  • Growth Rate: 36” per year
  • Full Height: 30’
  • Canopy Spread: 10’-20’ 
  • Drought Hardy: Moderate
  • Cold Hardy: Moderate
  • Planting Conditions: Full sun in well-draining soil
  • Lifespan: 50 years
  • Hardiness Zone: 8-11

The shoestring acacia is named for its long, stringy leaves and stems that give the appearance of shoestrings hanging from the branches. The maroon bark and yellow flowers add a pop of color throughout the year.

These trees are favored by low-maintenance gardeners because they do not create much litter and are moderately drought and weather-hardy, requiring only supplemental watering to keep them happy and healthy. 

This is not a climbing tree, because although it lacks thorns, the branches can be weaker and prone to snapping. The shoestring acacia attracts birds and other wildlife.

How To Choose The Best Drought-Tolerant Tree For Your Yard

Although the trees in this list are adapted to desert conditions, you should still take care to provide them with basic care to ensure the healthiest and therefore most resilient tree possible.

First, assess your landscape and determine what kind of soil, light, and other factors that will be important for your tree’s growth.

Aside from those otherwise specified in this list, many trees require supplemental water as they become established, at about one inch of water per week during the spring and summer. 

Make Sure To Water The Roots Slowly And Deeply

Also important is watering the root area thoroughly, including the entirety of the canopy spread.

Tree roots usually grow about as far as the canopy is wide, providing a helpful guideline for how far out to water. 

Another helpful way to ensure your tree is retaining water is by adding a couple of inches of mulch such as this MIGHTY109 Espresso Brown Wood Chip Mulch around the root zone of your tree.

Mulch is a useful tool to help prevent excess water evaporation in the hot desert climate as well as helping to suppress weeds or encroaching turf grass. 

Do Not Over-fertilize

You should never over-fertilize desert trees! The danger of over-fertilizing in the desert is that excessive nutrients can cause overgrowth which will increase the need for water in an already drought-prone environment. 

Finally, it is important to consider when you are actually planting your tree.

Fall is the best time to plant a new tree. The reason for this is that the soil is still warm from the summer months and can retain moisture before winter freezing. 

When the weather is too hot, the tree can become stressed and prone to dehydration, and in the winter, the frozen soils and temperatures can put the tree into shock.

Fall is the sweet spot when the tree can focus its energy on establishing its roots and growing stronger before any extreme weather. 

That’s A Wrap!

Planting in the desert creates a particular set of limitations including the extreme heat, poor soils, and the availability of water.

It is important, then, to select trees that are adapted to growing under these conditions. 

There are many different choices of trees that will thrive in even the harshest of desert climates, and many steps you can take to give them a good chance at success. 

Make sure to select a tree that is right for the unique conditions of your yard and gardening style, and you are sure to have a beautiful tree that will add depth, color, shade, and interest to your landscape for generations to come. 

References:

  1. Rahman, M.A., Armson, D. & Ennos, A.R. (2015) A comparison of the growth and cooling effectiveness of five commonly planted urban tree species. Urban Ecosystem. 18, 371–389.
  2. Wang, Z.H., Zhao, X., Yang J., Song, J. (2016) Cooling and energy saving potentials of shade trees and urban lawns in a desert city. Applied Energy. 161, 437-444.
  3. Venhari A.A., Tenpierik M., Taleghani, M. (2019) The role of sky view factor and urban street greenery in human thermal comfort and heat stress in a desert climate. Journal of Arid Environments. 166, 68-76.
  4. González-Rebeles G., Méndez-Alonzo, R., Paz, H., Terrazas, T., Tinoco-Ojanguren, C. (2022) Leaf habit determines the hydraulic and resource-use strategies in tree saplings from the Sonoran Desert. Tree Physiology.

Let’s be honest, the artificial Christmas tree just doesn’t cut it anymore and that’s why you’re here. Although I couldn’t be more proud that you’ve decided to bring nature indoors this holiday, growing a Christmas tree takes time and an abundance of care.

Evergreens used for Christmas trees can take anywhere from 5 to 12 years to reach the average indoor height of six to eight feet.

The Norway Spruce, Leyland Cypress, Virginia Pine, and White Pine are the fastest-growing Christmas trees reaching the perfect height in less than five years.

There are a handful more varieties that still grow quicker than the average listed below. Even though you won’t be able to harvest your tree this holiday, you’ll be able to watch the Christmas spirit grow outdoors until it’s ready to come inside!

Oh Christmas Tree: Finding The Perfect One

Oh Christmas tree, Oh Christmas tree, which one of you should I take home with me?

If you’ve ever tried searching for a live Christmas tree, then you already know just how hard it is to pick the perfect one. Almost all species of evergreen trees can be grown and used as Christmas trees. 

However, you’ll typically find five species of evergreens at your next Christmas tree farm or lot. More often than not, the real Christmas tree in your home will be a variety of fir, spruce, pine, cypress, or cedar. 

Firs Have That Classic Christmas Tree Smell

A close up of a branch of a fir tree with small, dense needles and two young fir cones at the end.

The most popular species of fresh Christmas trees is the fir. Firs are known for their excellent needle retention and strong, festive fragrance. If you’re looking for a Christmas tree that can hold those delicate ornaments and smell like Christmas, a variety of fir is the best option for you.

Firs have flat, friendly, flexible needles that add a soft touch to your home for Christmas, but are often slower growing than the other evergreen species.

The Balsam firm is the original Christmas season staple, but it isn’t among the fastest growing. There are a few fir varieties listed below that are fast-growing and resemble the old-fashioned Christmas tree.

Spruces Grow Quickly And Look Elegant

Close up of a spruce tree with vibrant green new growth at the ends of the branches.

Spruce trees are another popular option for the holiday season. However, their poor needle retention usually ranks them lower than other evergreen species.

Spruce trees are often chosen as Christmas trees for their elegant branches, fresh scent, and vibrant display of colors. Their needles are individually strong, but often fall before the season is up.

One variety of the spruce tree, the Norway Spruce, is the fastest-growing Christmas tree for you to plant in your backyard and harvest in a few short years!

For a more in-depth look at spruce trees, read our article on the best spruce trees for your yard.

Pines Have It All

A close up of a pine tree branch with spring blooms in clusters of small orange flowers.

Pine trees make the perfect indoor Christmas tree. Often, this species is faster growing than the other evergreens. 

Pine trees do well in colder climates, so if you’re looking to plant a Christmas tree outdoors and you reside up North, the pine is the perfect option.

Every fast-growing pine variety is known for offering the best of both worlds: a fresh fragrance and natural needle retention.

Our article on the complete pine tree growth timeline will give you better insight into how to grow one in your own yard.

Cypresses And Cedars Are Pretty Fast Growing

Green hedge of cypress trees along a dirt path.

The cypress and cedar varieties are often slow growers. However, there are a few outliers that grow faster than others.

If you’re weary about bringing the outdoors in, cypress or cedar is the safest choice for learning how to navigate fresh Christmas trees as they’re often better suited as more of a “neutral” tree for scent and feel.

Plant These 11 Fastest Growing Christmas Trees In Your Yard

Christmas trees, like any other tree, take time to grow. There are, of course, a few varieties that grow faster than the rest. 

It is important to note that if you plan to grow a Christmas tree from seed, you’ll have to add several years onto the timeline. From seed to sapling, growth is slow, but that shouldn’t be discouraging! Nurturing your own Christmas tree from the seed to the holiday season is admirable. 

However, the timelines listed below are meant for growing your Christmas tree from a sapling. Growing a Christmas tree can take as little as three years and sometimes as much as fifteen years, but according to the National Christmas Trees Association, they usually take an average of seven years to grow to the perfect height.

I get it, that still feels like a long time… like the time it takes for Christmas to come back around… several times.

Lucky for you, there are actually a few evergreens that can grow into the perfect Christmas tree in under five years!

Fastest Growing Christmas Trees Ranked: Complete Growth Chart

Here’s a quick table to summarize all of our info below – you can then keep reading for a detailed breakdown on each tree!

Fastest Growing Christmas Trees

TREEANNUAL GROWTHYEARS TO AVERAGE CHRISTMAS TREE HEIGHT (6’ TO 8’)BEST HARDINESS ZONEFRAGRANCENEEDLE RETENTION
Norway Spruce (Picea abies)13” to 60”3 to 4 years2b to 7aVery GoodPoor
Leyland Cypress (Cuprocyparis leylandii)24” to 36”4 years6 to 10FairExcellent
Virginia Pine (Pinus virginiana)24” to 36”3 to 5 years4 to 8GoodFair
White Pine (Pinus strobus)24” to 36”3 to 5 years3 to 8Very GoodExcellent
Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)13” to 24”6 to 8 years4 to 6Very GoodVery Good
White Spruce (Picea glauca)13” to 24”6 to 8 years2 to 6FairVery Good
Scotch Pine (Pinus sylvestris)12” to 24”6 to 8 years2 to 9GoodExcellent
Canaan Fir (Abies balsamea var. phanerolepis)12” to 24”7 years4 to 7bExcellentExcellent
Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana)12” to 24”7 to 9 years2 to 9GoodExcellent
Colorado Blue Spruce (Picea pungens)12” to 24”7 to 10 years3 to 7GoodGood

1. Norway Spruce

The Norway Spruce is the fastest-growing Christmas tree. When young, the Norway Spruce grows rapidly. This evergreen can reach a marketable Christmas tree height in just three years!

At its best, a Norway Spruce can grow up to 60 inches a year but averages a steady two to three feet per year of growth when planted in your yard.

The Norway Spruce grows into the perfect pyramidal shape with strong needles and branches that point upward. 

This Christmas tree offers a fresh, fragrant scent, but ranks poor in overall needle retention. To combat shedding spruce needles, harvest your Christmas tree closer to the holidays.

If you plan to plant a Norway Spruce for your next Christmas tree, the best time to plant is in the spring or early fall. Be sure to plant your tree in shallow, acidic soil.

The Norway spruce then requires at least six hours of sunlight and daily deep watering to properly grow. After the first year, your spruce should be established enough to slow down watering.

If you’re looking for a quick, easy tree to grow in your backyard to harvest for the holidays and decorate as you count the days down to Christmas, the Norway Spruce is the one.

2. Leyland Cypress

The Leyland Cypress is another one of the evergreen varieties that grow to average Christmas tree height in under five years!

This fast grower inches upward at two to three feet per year when grown in fertile soil with access to full sun. The best time to plant the Leyland Cypress is sometime mid-fall.

The Leyland Cypress has soft, feather-like needles that will last all season long. The evergreen aroma is faint and produces no pollen which is perfect for those with allergies!

The Leyland Cypress is commonly used as an ornamental tree. It’s perfect for landscapes and yes, it’s also perfect for ornaments!

3. Virginia Pine

The Virginia Pine is a popular choice for a Christmas tree. If properly planted, the Virginia Pine can become your next Christmas tree in as little as three years!

To properly plant your Virginia Pine, transplant in the spring in well-drained, acidic soil with access to full sun.

The Virginia Pine is the pioneer of plants because it is extremely hardy and easy to grow. In fact, the Virginia Pine will begin to amend the soil around it to improve growing conditions! 

This pine does require pruning to maintain the perfect holiday shape. You can even use your pine prunings for wreaths and holiday greenery!

The needles of the Virginia Pine are short, soft, and produce a pleasant, piney scent.

4. White Pine

Next on the nice list for fast-growing Christmas trees is the White Pine. This evergreen has become a traditional tree for the holidays.

The White Pine can reach a height of six feet in only three years! This pine grows at a steady rate of two to three feet per year.

The long, soft needles are beared in bundles of five, one of the only pines that do this! They’re perfect for ornaments and other holiday greenery uses.

To plant your own White Pine, wait until springtime and place in well-drained, slightly acidic soil with access to full sun. However, if you live in a warmer climate, offer your pine some shade to ensure proper growth.

The White Pine is the best tree to plant to become your next Christmas tree if you’re looking for a pine that offers it all. This evergreen offers a fresh scent, great needle retention, and grows quickly!

5. Douglas Fir

If you’re looking for your very own picture-perfect, hallmark Christmas tree to harvest from your own backyard, the Douglas Fir is a great start.

The Douglas Fir, surprisingly not a true fir, is one of the most popular Christmas trees to date. This dense, dark, earthy evergreen hardly makes its debut on the nice list as a fast-growing Christmas tree.

Although it does not grow as fast as the ones listed above, you’ll still have a fragrant, fresh Christmas tree seven feet tall in only five years, slightly below the average growth timeline for Christmas trees.

The Douglas Fir tends to be adaptable but prefers full sun access and acidic, well-drained soils. Plant your Douglas Fir in late winter or early spring.

Their needles are soft and shiny giving this fresh Christmas tree an artificial feel, but it’s real! The needles tend to be weaker than the average but will hold up throughout the season. 

No need to worry about weak branches, just search for some lightweight ornaments instead!

Glass ornaments may be too heavy and crush the needles of some real trees, so opt for lighter ones instead. RESSYYT 24pcs Christmas Ball Ornaments contains lightweight, shatterproof, and high-quality ornaments guaranteed to not crush your Christmas tree.

6. White Spruce

Spruce trees are often known to be slow to moderate-growing, but the White Spruce is a fast-growing evergreen that can be grown into your next Christmas tree! Spruce trees make beautiful Christmas trees because of their natural shape, rich color, and stiff needles. The White Spruce is known to add elegance to any space.

The White Spruce easily grows over a foot per year and will grow into the perfect Christmas tree height in six to eight years.

This evergreen closely resembles the Colorado Blue Spruce and is one of the strongest to hold ornaments and maintain needles while still releasing a slight evergreen scent.

The White Spruce is widely used as a Christmas tree and grows best in acidic, well-drained soils with access to full sun. The best time to plant your white spruce is in the late summer or early fall.

The branches of the white spruce are strong and perfect for hanging any heavy ornaments.

7. Scotch Pine

The Scotch Pine is an evergreen that is commonly grown as a Christmas Tree in the Midwest. This pine can grow up to two feet per year and can be harvested in six to eight years as a Christmas tree.

The Scotch Pine is easy to plant and maintain, and is highly survivable. If you’re new to the idea of growing your own Christmas tree, the Scotch Pine is the perfect start! Simply said, the Scotch Pine is the Christmas tree for beginners.

This evergreen will remain fresh all season long and has short, stiff branches perfect for hanging your delicate ornaments!

To begin planting your own Scotch Pine, wait until spring or fall and then transplant it into moist, well-drained, alkaline soil with full sun. Wait six years and you’ll have a seven-foot Scotch Pine Christmas tree!

9. Canaan Fir

The Canaan Fir is a variation of the Fraser Fir and Balsam Fir that is fast-growing, flawless, and fresh. The balsam fir is a timeless, traditional tree for the holiday season, but is often slow-growing. The Canaan fir is the fast-growing partner of the Balsam Fir!

This evergreen grows an average of one to two feet per year, and can be harvested at six feet in only seven years!

The Canaan fir is a combination of the two most widely known Christmas tree varieties and inherits the best feature of both. For example, the Canaan Fir combines the beauty of the Balsam Fir and the compact, needle retention of the Fraser Fir… but better.

The dark green, sturdy needles of the Canaan Fir make them perfect for hanging ornaments and the fresh fir scent creates a festive holiday scene in your home! 

The Canaan Fir does best when planted in full sun, and moist, well-drained soils. It thrives in cooler climates and must be planted in the spring or fall.

Turn your home and backyard into a hallmark holiday movie with the Canaan Fir!

10. Eastern Red Cedar

Typically, cedars are very slow-growing, yet they make wonderful Christmas trees! The Eastern Red Cedar actually falls under the nice list of fast-growing Christmas trees. You’ll find that cedars are best grown in the South and are grown as the traditional southern Christmas tree.

The Eastern Red Cedar grows an average of one to two feet per year and can reach the perfect holiday height in seven to nine years!

The scent of this cedar is usually light and has small spreads of foliage with small needles that retain throughout the season. Usually, the Eastern Red Cedar branches do best with lightweight ornaments.

The Eastern Red Cedar should be planted in the fall to root and recover by the spring. Plant your next Christmas tree in acidic, moist, well-drained soils to grow at its fastest rate.

11. Colorado Blue Spruce

And at the end of the nice list is the Colorado Blue Spruce. The Colorado Blue Spruce is a wonderful Christmas tree candidate for your homegrown journey.

The Colorado Blue Spruce is often a versatile landscape tree, but also doubles as the perfect Christmas tree! You could even leave your Spruce uncut to debut as an outdoor holiday staple in the neighborhood… no need for a sparse charlie brown Christmas tree, get yourself a  compact Colorado Blue Spruce Christmas tree!

The Colorado Blue Spruce has short, spiny needles that are a vibrant bluish-green color to add some holiday hues to your home! They are great for hanging ornaments but don’t often hang around until the holidays when harvested too early.

The Colorado Blue Spruce is native to the Rockies of Colorado obviously – but will do well planted in any yard with moist, well-drained, acidic soils to grow one to two feet per year. This Spruce requires full sun and plenty of space to bush out.

Plant your Colorado Blue Spruce in the late winter or early spring and harvest your new Christmas tree in seven to ten years!

The blue spruces color is what makes it so iconic, and luckily we have a guide on how to make your spruce even bluer to really pop in your holiday display.

How To Grow Your Own Christmas Tree

The National Christmas Tree Association estimates that there are 350 million real Christmas trees growing throughout farms in the United States at any given time, so why not make it one more?

The first step to growing your own Christmas tree is to select one of the fast-growing varieties from above. Once you’ve decided on the perfect tree for your family, you’ll want to head out to your local Christmas tree farm or nursery and grab a sapling of your favorite fresh tree!

After returning home with your sapling (in the desired season for planting), having decided on the perfect spot in your yard, transplant your new sapling into acidic, moist, well-drained soil. Be sure to plant your new sapling away from structures and other trees to eliminate competition and slow growth.

The First Year of Growth

For the first year of growth, be sure to deeply water your new tree to help facilitate root growth and recovery. 

You’ll want to check on your mini Christmas tree farm often to eliminate the growth of weeds, pests, and competitors.

Keep in mind that growing a fast-growing variety of evergreens is different from the average growing Christmas tree. Because of their rapid growth, your branches won’t grow symmetrically or in the perfect shape. To keep the shape, it is recommended that you shear your tree often after it has grown past the seedling stage.

Maintenance for Your Growing Tree

Fast-growing varieties require pruning twice yearly, while average-growing varieties require a prune maybe once a year.

Remember, your clippings can be used to make wreaths and other holiday greenery!

Once your tree has reached the desired height for your home, it is time to harvest. It is best to harvest your Christmas tree no more than a month before the holidays to ensure needle retention and a fresh aroma.

There are 8 ways to make your pine Christmas tree last longer, which we’ve put into a quick guide for you.

Water, Water, Water!

If you’re worried about keeping your Christmas tree fresh after cutting it, Miracle-Gro for Christmas Tree Plant Food will add the perfect touch to the water for your tree trunk. Remember that your fresh tree will soak up water quickly in the first few days of being cut, so check it often! One capful will keep your fresh tree hydrated and reduce the number of needles that drop!

You should add a bit of water to your tree intermittently, too. We have a whole article on why you should spray your Christmas tree with water, in case you want to learn more.

Enjoy your years of hard work for the festive holiday and start the journey on your next tree!

Fa La La Logging Off

Real trees are a renewable, recyclable resource, so it’s no wonder you’re looking to reach out into nature this holiday for your Christmas spirit!

To review, there are hundreds of varieties of evergreens that can be grown as a Christmas tree. This post has narrowed it down to the ten fastest-growing Christmas trees for you to grow on your own time!

The 10 fastest-growing Christmas trees are:

  • Norway Spruce
  • Leyland Cypress
  • Virginia Pine
  • White Pine
  • Douglas Fir
  • White Spruce
  • Scotch Pine
  • Canaan Fir
  • Eastern Red Cedar
  • Colorado Blue Spruce

These ten varieties will grow into your next Christmas tree in under ten years.

Don’t be the grinch that stole Christmas, grow a tree of your own this season! Santa’s presents will look perfect under your new fresh and festive Christmas tree!

References:

Anderson, S., & Marcouiller, D. (2007). Introduction to growing Christmas trees. Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service.

Johnson, J. E. (2020). Species for Christmas tree planting in Virginia.

Moorhead, D. J. (2009). Selection and care of Christmas trees for the home.

Sowder, A. M. (1949). Christmas trees—the industry. Trees. Yearb. Agric. US Dep. Agric.

Wray, R. D. (2008). Christmas trees for pleasure and profit. Rutgers University Press.

Are you looking for a fast-growing tree to add to your backyard? We all know that trees take forever to grow! That said, some species grow faster than others, and if you choose the right one, you’ll have a tall tree in no time.

Are you ready to learn more about these large, fast-growing trees so that you can choose the right one for your yard? Let’s go!

What Are The Most Common Large Tree Varieties?

The most common large tree varieties for backyards include:

  • Hybrid poplar
  • Weeping willow
  • Green giant arborvitae
  • Dawn redwood
  • Pin oak
  • River birch
  • American sycamore
  • Northern red oak
  • Silver maple

There are many great reasons to plant a tree in your backyard. Hedge trees provide incredible privacy, large trees will shade you on a hot summer day, and besides looking nice on your property, planting trees is an excellent way to help the environment. 

But although you might dream of having a beautiful, towering tree in your backyard, it’s more complex than just plopping a tree into the ground.

Consider Everything Before Planting A Tree

When planting a tree, there are many factors to consider, such as soil type, potential pests, amount of sun, water lines, sidewalks, and more.

Additionally, most baby trees don’t do well with lazy gardeners—you can’t just plant a tree and forget about it! Most trees will need a lot of tender love and care, especially during their first years, and you’ll probably have to invest in an irrigation system.

Although they sound complicated, you’ll be up and running in no time if you use an irrigation kit like this Rain Bird Drip Irrigation Landscape & Garden Watering Kit.

Sometimes you find yourself looking out of a window and thinking—man, I wish there was a tree there! But since you really can’t plant a fully grown tree, it could take years for that daydream to become a reality.

But we’re here to help! 

Below we talk about the fastest-growing backyard trees, how big they get, planting recommendations for each one, and much more! So, what are you waiting for—let’s learn about some trees!

Fastest Growing Large Trees Ranked: Complete Growth Chart

We’re going to throw a lot at you below, so here’s a quick chart to help you summarize the differences! Keep reading on to view the full tree by tree detailed breakdown.

Fastest Growing Large Trees Ranked

TREEANNUAL GROWTHLIFESPANFULL HEIGHTBEST HARDINESS ZONE
Hybrid poplar5-8'40-60 years150'3-8
Weeping willow2'30 years60'4-10
Giant green arborvitae3'40-60 years60'5-8
Dawn redwood2'100 years200'5-8
Pin oak2'200 years70'4-8
River birch2'75 years60'4-9
American sycamore2'250 years100'4-9
Northern red oak2'300 years75'3-8
Silver maple6'35-130 years115'3-9

1. Hybrid Poplars Are Popular Fast Growing Trees

Mature hybrid poplar in a field with a blue sky.

Poplar is the colloquial term for trees in the Populus genus, including cottonwoods and aspens. They’re native to cold and temperate regions of the northern hemisphere.

A hybrid poplar can quickly produce shade on your property while creating a privacy screen or windbreak. Plus, civic and environmental engineers commonly plant hybrid poplars along rivers and streams to create buffers, shade, and support.

The Natural Resources Research Institute of the University of Minnesota-Duluth is on the cutting edge of developing swiftly-growing poplars that are disease-resistant and easily root from cuttings.

They’re crossing the European black poplar and Minnesota cottonwood trees to develop these hybrids. And while these specific hybrids aren’t available to the general public yet, there are plenty that are!

Growing Information For Hybrid Poplars

Depending on the species, hybrid poplars grow quickly. In fact, according to the University of Idaho, Idaho hybrid poplars can grow as much as 10 feet a year in well-irrigated conditions!

Additionally, the trees can reach anywhere from 50 to 150 feet high with trunks up to 8 feet in diameter—so make sure you have the room!

Hybrid Poplar trees like warm weather and moist soil; they require full sunlight and grow best in areas with a high water line. Their roots can cause trouble to structures such as your home, driveway, and road, so make sure you consider that when choosing a spot to plant your new tree.

To learn more about poplars, check out our article explaining why poplar trees are invasive and what you can do about it!

2. Weeping Willows Are Beautiful And Grow Quickly

Sun shining through weeping willow tree branches.

Weeping willows are depicted in many paintings across multiple artistic eras for a reason—they’re beautiful and provide fantastic shade! To add even more beauty to your yard, read our article on plants you can plant under a weeping willow!

Interestingly, Native Americans used to chew on the willows young twigs to relieve headaches, which makes sense because they contain salicylic acid, the main ingredient in Aspirin.

Although native to China, they’re prevalent in North America. Today, you can find them anywhere, from Ontario to central Florida and as far west as Missouri.

Growing Information For Weeping Willows

Willows do best in large backyards that are next to the water. They like moist—even wet—conditions and tend to grow best in cooler environments. If you want to grow them somewhere drier, be ready to invest in some irrigation!

The trees grow up to 60 feet tall with a broad, cascading canopy (hence the name weeping) and lose their leaves in the wintertime. They prefer cooler areas but can grow as far south as Zone 9B.

Willows will quickly grow to be 30 to 40 feet, with a width of up to 40 feet. Some species even grow as tall as 75 feet! They typically grow between 6-10 feet each year.

Things You Should Know Before Planting Willow Trees

Due to how quickly willows grow, the wood is not particularly strong and can crack easily. Likewise, heavy winter snow can cause damage. Willows also litter leaves, branches, and twigs, quite a bit, so be ready to do some backyard work!

A good rake, like this Ansgery Aluminum Landscape Rake, can help you clean up leaves in a jiffy.

Additionally, willows are susceptible to plenty of diseases, including:

  • Cankers
  • Leaf spots
  • Powdery mildew
  • Blight

All in all, the beauty of this magnificent tree is well worth the trouble. Just be sure to plant your willow at least 20 feet from your home and 12 feet from walkways and driveways. And make sure the roots won’t hit any water lines.

3. Green Giant Arborvitae Are Popular Fast Growing Landscaping Trees

A row of young green giant arborvitae grow in a grass yard along a wooden paneled fence.

Green giant arborvitae is a large evergreen conifer, a hybrid between the Japanese arborvitae and Western red cedar. They were initially developed in Denmark in the 1930s, arriving in the US in the late 1960s when the US National Arboretum was given a specimen.

As it became available in nurseries across the country, it started to gain a reputation as a landscaping tree. This tree is popular because its needles keep their deep green, glossy sheen throughout the year, even in the winter.

The green giant arborvitae is easy to maintain because it’s hardy and grows uniformly, meaning it doesn’t require much—if any—pruning.

Growing Information For Green Giant Arborvitae

The green giant arborvitae is hardy in zones 5-8 and most popular in the Southeastern states. It’s mostly resistant to diseases, occasional drought, insects, and deer but doesn’t tolerate salty soils or sprays well. 

Overall, these trees get lofty, growing up to 60 feet tall with a width of 18 feet. They thrive in moist locations with full sun and some afternoon shade and can grow in many different soil types. When placed smartly, it can grow around 4 feet each year!

4. If You Want A Fast Growing Deciduous Tree, Check Out The Dawn Redwood

Group of tall dawn redwood trees along a road in autumn with orange leaves in front of a tree lined hill

The dawn redwood is famous for its perfect pyramid shape and towering heights up to 200 feet tall! While it looks like an evergreen, its needles are actually deciduous, meaning they shed in the winter. 

One of the things that stands out most about this tree is its deep red trunk. Also, the top parts of its roots are visible, a trait mostly reserved for tropical trees.

Pro tip: Dawn redwoods make great climbing trees!

Growing Information For Dawn Redwoods

Although these trees don’t grow as fast as some of the other trees on the list, they grow quickly and increase in height by two to three feet each year. In fact, they can reach 25 feet in ten years or less. 

When planting a redwood, be sure to choose a site that gets full sun. You don’t have to worry as much about soil with these tree as they can tolerate a range of soil types—so long as it’s not alkaline. 

Its drought tolerance is moderate, with an aerosol salt tolerance of low.

5. The Pin Oak Is An Excellent Large, Fast Growing Tree

A pin oak in a grass field with yellow flowering blooms.

The pin oak is a quick-growing deciduous red oak known for being more graceful and slender than some other oak varieties. They’re native to Southeastern Canada and the Northeastern and North-central US. They’re usually found in zones 4-8.

Pin oaks are commonly used as shade or street trees in private yards and parks. Want to know exactly how long a pin oak will take to grow? Check out our article detailing the full pin oak tree lifespan!

Growing Information For Pin Oaks

Like most oak trees, pin oaks are large trees with broad diameters. This species of oak can grow up to 90 feet tall, with some trees having been observed reaching heights of 125 feet. On average, you can expect a pin oak to grow about two feet each year.

They thrive in full sun and like moist, loamy, and acidic soils. They do well in soils that don’t drain quickly and can tolerate moderate flooding. That said, they can also adapt to dry urban conditions. 

Due to its shallow roots, waterlines cause less concern than other backyard trees. However, pin oaks must be planted at least 20 feet away from buildings, driveways, and roads.

6. River Birch Grow Quite Tall When Grown Near Water

A close up of the peeling bark of a paper birch tree.

The river birch is the most popular of all birches and grows in zones 4-9. 

One of the reasons it’s so widely grown is because of its beautiful, peeling, multicolored bark. Young trees have pinkish bark, while older trees develop red-grey bark.

The river birch grows (you guessed it) near water in the wild. However, you can plant them almost anywhere in the United States for landscaping purposes.

Growing Information For River Birch Trees

One of the unique things about river birch trees is that they grow nearly as wide as they are tall. For example, a mature river birch can grow 60 feet tall and up to 50 feet wide! Plus, there are tons of great places to plant river birch trees. To learn more, check our our birch tree planting guide with nine great suggestions.

Although their growth depends on the nearby conditions, they have been known to grow two feet per year.

That said, they do best with the following:

  • Moist soil
  • Fertile soil
  • Well-draining soil
  • Full sun or moderate shade

The river birch has no particularly harmful pests. They can sometimes acquire aphids, but natural predators tend to take care of that!

7. American Sycamore Are One Of The Largest Fast Growing Trees

the green leaves and branches of a sycamore tree growing in a grass lawn.

The American sycamore can grow up to 100 feet tall—125 feet under ideal conditions—and its impressive trunk can reach diameters larger than 10 feet. While young, it has a pyramidal shape but grows up to be more rounded with an irregular crown.

The American sycamore is native to Central and Eastern US and Southeastern Canada. It grows to be its largest in flood plains or along rivers or streams.

Growing Information For American Sycamores

This tree likes full sun and soil that is fertile and moist. It can tolerate loam, clay, sand, and alkaline soil. It can also tolerate drought to a degree.

The American sycamore has a quick growth rate—otherwise, it wouldn’t have made it onto this list— and adds around two feet to its height each year. Because they’re so big these trees need a lot of backyard space, so make sure to consider its full size when choosing a location.

If you’re looking for a more detailed guide, take a peak at our full sycamore tree growth rate timeline!

8. Northern Red Oak Is A Hardy Quick Growing Tree

Northern red oak with orange fall leaves

The Northern red oak is one of the fastest-growing oak trees. Their trunks tend to be very straight, with thick bark ridges that almost appear cracked and leaves as large as 9 inches long! They’re similar to white oak trees, but many people often prefer the look of red oaks (you can view the major differences between red and white oak trees here.)

Northern red oak acorns were traditionally a vital food source for Native Americans. The acorns were leached with ashes to get rid of bitter tannins and then prepared in various recipes.

Although similar to scarlet oak, Northern red oak prefers damper soil. Additionally, it can thrive in shaded areas where the scarlet oak would struggle.

Growing Information For Northern Red Oak

Red oaks like to grow in acidic, moist, well-draining sandy or loam soil. However, they’ll still do okay in alkaline, dry, clay soil. In ideal conditions, Northern red oak trees can grow to 75 feet tall and 45 feet wide. Like many of the trees on this list, they add about two feet per year to their height.

The northern red oak is a great shade tree used in lawns and parks. Their acorns provide vital winter food for wildlife such as squirrels, wild turkeys, deer, and songbirds.

Pro tip: if oak wilt is prevalent in your area, it’s best to choose a different tree to plant, just in case.

9. Silver Maple Are A Beautiful Quick Growing Tree For Every Yard

Jagged green leaves of a maple tree

The silver maple tree is the fastest-growing American maple species. Because of how quickly it grows, the wood is pretty weak and susceptible to storm damage. It’s also a big target for wooly alder aphids.

Even though its extensive root system is prone to damaging sidewalks and water pipes, it’s still an incredibly popular, often-planted tree because of how quickly and easily it grows. 

The silver maple gets its name from the silver tones on the underbellies of its leaves, which look particularly beautiful in the wind.

Growing Information For Silver Maple Trees

The silver maple tree is one of the taller trees on the list and can reach up to 100 feet into the sky. Additionally, it can grow to be up to 50 feet wide. But it’s not the only maple tree species to grow big! For a better guide on maple trees and their pros and cons, check out our article on the 9 best varieties to plant.

These trees like to grow in moist soils and are often found deep in the woods or next to streams. They don’t do well in dry soil, so they often aren’t a good choice for dryer climates.

In the right conditions, though, you can expect your silver maple to grow about two feet each year!

Which Fast Growing Large Tree Should I Plant In My Yard?

Before we can answer which large tree you should plant in your yard, we need to consider why you want to grow a tree in the first place.

Best Large Tree To Grow As A Sound Barrier

The hybrid poplar is your best option as a sound barrier. Environmental engineers often use them along highways and roads as a barrier during civic planning!

Hybrid poplars do well in rows to create a wall of protection against you and the road. They grow massive, so make sure you have room for them!

Best Fast Growing Tree To Plant For Beauty

If you’re looking for a quick-growing tree that’s also absolutely gorgeous, you’ll want to go with a weeping willow. 

Weeping willows are famous worldwide for their cascading branches along picturesque watersides. There’s almost nothing more magical than sitting underneath a weeping willow to read your favorite book.

Of course, you’ll need a good hammock to relax in while you enjoy your book, and this Vivere Double Cotton Hammock is perfect for a summer nap in the shade! 

Best Large Backyard Tree To Plant For Your Family

If you’re planting a tree for your kids, the dawn redwood is your best choice! These beautiful trees have much stronger wood than most of the other quick-growing trees on our list.

The roots of the dawn redwood will be a lot of fun for your kids to run around on. Likewise, its low branches make it the perfect climbing tree. Who doesn’t like climbing trees?

Best Large Tree To Plant For Shade

Because it grows tall and has outward stretching branches, the hybrid poplar is the best quick-growing large tree to plant for shade. 

These massive trees can shade your home and garden in the summer, helping you reduce the amount of electricity you use by running an air conditioner and saving a sun-scorched garden.

Although the dawn redwood can grow to be around 50 feet taller than the hybrid poplar, it has a pyramid shape rather than outward branches, allowing it to provide lovely targeted shade but making it less likely to provide sweeping shade. 

Best Fast-Growing Tree To Plant Along A Pond Or Stream

Weeping willows are the most apparent tree of choice if you’re planting along a pond or stream. That said, the river birch is a strong competitor!

Weeping willows naturally grow in wet conditions in the wild, which is why you’ll frequently find them growing wildly near rivers and streams. Additionally, environmental engineers will sometimes use them as support for riverbeds and runoffs. 

River birch also grows well in wet conditions and will impress anyone with its beautiful bark. Young trees especially turn heads with their pink tones. One truly unique thing about the river birch is that it often grows more than one trunk, giving them a clustered appearance. So you get two trees for the price of one!

Tips For Planting And Growing Large Trees

Believe it or not, planting a tree takes a lot of planning and effort. But don’t worry; we’ve got you covered!

Let’s plant some trees!

When Should You Plant A Large Tree?

Although you could plant a tree any time during the year, some species do best when transplanted during certain seasons. For example, most balled or burlapped trees grow best when planted in the fall after their leaves have dropped.

Why plant in the fall? Good question! The answer is simple—with no leaves to focus on, your new tree will put all of its energy into developing a solid root system, allowing it to survive better in the heat and drought that summer brings.

However, some species of tree do good (even better) when planted in the spring or summer, so be sure to consider the best time to plant a tree species when shopping for your new backyard addition!

You will most definitely need to prune whatever tree you end up planting, so make sure to bookmark our guide on how to prune large trees for once your tree is full grown!

Test Your Soil A Week Or Two Before Planting

If you want your new tree to flourish, it must have the correct pH, nutrients, and soil drainage. And the last thing you want to do is find out you put the tree in the wrong spot after you planted it! 

To avoid transplanting, choose a couple of suitable locations in your yard and test the soil a few weeks before planting. Testing in advance allows you time to adjust the earth or choose a new spot. 

That said, if you’re going to disrupt the ground during final grading or plan to use new soil during planting, test after those changes occur.

Ornamental trees typically prefer soil that’s pH ranges from 5.8 to 6.5. Soil that is more acidic or alkaline than this can result in nutrient deficiencies. 

To raise the pH, you can add dolomitic lime. Conversely, you can use sulfur or aluminum sulfate to lower the pH. Only attempt to raise or lower your pH once you have a soil test and are sure of what you need to do!

Adding Organic Matter

Organic amendments like compost are added to soil to improve soil tilth—soil nutrient and water-holding capacity.

It’s best to incorporate organic matter throughout the rooting zone rather than just in the planting hole. Otherwise, the roots may stay where the nutrients are instead of spreading out.

Organic matter should make up about 10-20% of the soil. Before adding it to clay soils, consider improving the drainage via deep tilling.

Oh, and did you know you could save money by creating your own mulch? It’s true, and we can tell you how. Just check out our article explaining why pine needles make great mulch and how to make your own!

How Deep Should You Plant Your Tree?

Depth is another essential factor to consider when planting a tree. If you plant too deeply (or not deep enough), your tree may be damaged and its growth stunted. 

Your planting hole shouldn’t be deeper than your root ball’s height in well-draining soil. Don’t disturb the earth at the bottom of the pit; otherwise, the tree might sink deeper.

In addition, make sure there isn’t an extra layer of soil covering the root ball. The only thing that should be put over the root ball is mulch. Even just half an inch of excess soil over the root ball can stop water from reaching it!

How To Prepare And Set The Root Ball

Trees grown in containers can be removed and put straight into the hole. Cut off any circling roots, so they don’t strangle your tree! 

If it’s rootbound, use a pair of pruning shears to make slices in the root ball from top to bottom in three or four spots. Then, pull the outside roots away from the root ball.

When preparing a hole for a bare-root tree, make sure you dig it wide enough to spread out the roots. You don’t want to have to bend roots for them to fit!

Also, ensure you’re using natural burlap rather than synthetic when covering up the soil around your baby tree.

How To Fill The Planting Hole

The soil you use to fill in around the root ball is known as backfill. Use the original soil along with 10-20% compost. Place your tree into the hole at the right depth, then backfill half of the space surrounding the root ball.

Tamp the soil gently—don’t fully compact the ground, though. Finish up with loose and unamended soil, with another tamping.

Because the roots haven’t had time to spread, you’ll need to water the root ball directly. To do this, create a 3-inch-tall water ring around the edge of the ball.

Mulching Can Help Or Hinder A Trees Growth

Believe it or not, proper mulching is one of the keys to ensuring your tree grows as quickly as possible. Not only does it help keeps weeds to a minimum, but it helps retain soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, and eliminate damage from landscaping tools.

But, when done improperly, mulch can become a new tree’s worst enemy! 

You should add a layer of mulch around your tree that measures 2-4 inches deep and up to 6 feet wide. Leave a 3-6 inch gap between the mulch and the tree’s trunk.

Don’t heap piles of mulch up against the tree, as the wet mulch can rot the bark, damaging the tree’s growth. Also, don’t use the volcano method, as water will collect in the hole and rot the trunk. Finally, don’t make the mulch any deeper than 4 inches, as this can rob the soil of oxygen. 

Watering Is Vital During The First Few Months

As mentioned before, you’ll need to water the root ball directly at first—the raised ring you’ve built with soil will help keep the water around the root ball. 

Water the tree deeply after mulching. Be sure to adjust how much you water based on whether your soil is draining or poorly draining.

Keep constant moisture, but not saturation, for the first few months after you transplant. Pay attention to how quickly your soil dries out so you can water sufficiently!

That’s A Wrap!

Whether you’re aiming for a little extra shade or want a shining beauty to take center stage, one of the trees on this list is sure to tickle your fancy.

To quickly recap, some of the most popular fast-growing large tree varieties include:

  • Hybrid poplars
  • Weeping willows
  • Green giant arborvitae
  • Dawn redwood
  • Pin oak
  • River birch
  • American sycamore
  • Northern red oak
  • Silver maple

Before planting, consider what kind of soil you have, your goal, and how large of a tree your backyard can handle. Additionally, following the planting techniques we shared will help your tree thrive. 

Hopefully, this article helped you find the perfect quick-growing tree for your space! To learn more, check out our list of the 19 fastest-growing shade trees for your yard.

Happy planting!

Resources

Calvo-Alvarado, J. C., Arias, D., & Richter, D. D. (2007). Early growth performance of native and introduced fast-growing tree species in wet to sub-humid climates of the Southern region of Costa Rica. Forest Ecology and Management242(2-3), 227-235.

Duryea, M. L., & Malavasi, M. M. (1993). How trees grow in the urban environment. Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida.

Fitzpatrick, D. (1994). Money trees on your property: profit gained through trees and how to grow them. Inkata Press Pty, Butterworth-Heinemann.

Thomas, A., Priault, P., Piutti, S., Dallé, E., & Marron, N. (2021). Growth dynamics of fast-growing tree species in mixed forestry and agroforestry plantations. Forest Ecology and Management480, 118672.

Who doesn’t delight in a nice, sunny day, right? On the flip side, sometimes it is just nice to soak up the shade and bask in the cool breeze that only occurs right underneath a tree. Maple trees might be the tree to give you this moment of respite during hot summer days!

These trees have large canopies, grow tall (and fast), provide syrup, and are great, sturdy additions to areas all over North America.

Maples are not only beautiful and useful, but are also resilient and reliable. 

As you consider what might be the best shade tree to invest your time and money into, maple should be at the top of your list. This tree could be your best option, depending on factors like where you live, and what you are looking for. Stick with us for a while so that we can go over all the basics. You’ll leave feeling informed and prepared!

Maple Trees Are Great For More Than Just Shade

Let’s start off with the main question on everyone’s mind. Are maple trees good shade trees? Yes, maples are wonderful shade trees, for many reasons. 

You can rely on these trees to grow quickly. Maple trees are tall, have a wide canopies, live a long time, provide added benefits like sap that can turn to syrup, and provide shelter from not only the sun but also from other elements. 

They Have Large Canopies

The distinction between a regular old tree and a shade tree has to do with the canopy- how dense it is, how wide it spreads, how tall the tree is, and how the height reflects the canopy’s ability to throw its shadow so that it can provide shade. 

A maple tree, however, has a canopy that will reach 30 to 50 feet wide in most cases – which provides a very large shadow! 

Maple Trees Are Diverse

Maple trees have their preferences about the environments in which they can grow and thrive, but this is no different from any tree. 

Generally, with well over 100 species of maple trees, you will find a species that fits any given environment that trees can grow. It’s safe to say that maples can be found virtually everywhere in the United States.

They Grow Tall!

Maples trees grow up to about 2 feet, or 24 inches, per year. This makes them medium-fast growing trees and, at maturity, they might stand anywhere from 30 to 150 feet tall. What a range!

Between the height of the tree and the spread of its canopy, you are sure to find some great shade underneath.

Since these maple trees are able to grow quickly and adapt well, they might just be the right option for your next shade tree.

Maple Trees Thrive In A Lot Of USDA Zones

Maple trees do best in USDA hardiness zones 3-9 overall, but most prefer the slightly more temperate climate in zones 5-9. Their ability to thrive in a wide range of zones makes it possible to find maples all over the United States, and greater North America, even.

Maple trees are seen as one of the best shade trees due to their wide canopy, multifaceted uses, and growth rate.

Now, let’s get to the heart of it all. Here are 6 reasons maple trees are so great.

1. Maple Trees Can Grow All Across North America

A row of maple trees with bright orange and yellow fall foliage line a lane.

There are approximately 132 species of maple trees, which means that each individual species is going to have slightly different requirements and respond best to different things. 

According to the USDA, hardiness zones 3-9 encompass the regions of the United States where these trees are able to grow the best. 

Since the hardiness zones go from 1-13, this means that maple trees are able to thrive in most areas of the United States, especially because the more moderate middle zones make up the majority of environments in the United States.

So, What Exactly Is A Hardiness Zone?

You may be wondering what is a hardiness zone and why do we care about it? Let us to tell you! 

When we talk about the hardiness of a plant, we are referring to how ‘cold hardy’ it is. This is really just another way of saying, “Alright, how cold can it get in a region before the tree starts really struggling?”

So, the USDA hardiness zones give us a helpful set of parameters to determine the coldest it might possibly get in a given zone and, as it follows, what zones are best for what types of plants.

Maple Tree’s Required Hardiness Zone, Explained

The hardiness differs based off the type of maple tree we’re talking about! 

Sugar maple, autumn blaze maple, red maple, and silver maple are some of the most common maple trees to choose from, and each will have a slightly different set of needs to consider as you determine what the best conditions to grow your tree are.

4 Kinds Of Maple Tree Hardiness Zones

  • Sugar Maple: This species of maple grows best in USDA hardiness zones 3-8.  That means that the range of average extreme low temperatures for sugar maple is -40 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit. Here are the best places to plant sugar maple trees if you go this route!
  • Autumn Blaze Maple: This type of maple tree prefers USDA hardiness zones 4-8, just a bit less hardy than the sugar maple listed above.The range of average extreme low temperatures for the autumn blaze maple species is anywhere from -30 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Red Maple: Our third species as an example this time prefers to reside in USDA hardiness zones 3-9. So far, this type of maple is the coldest hardy of our listed examples. The range of average extreme low temperatures for the red maple tree has a wide range of -40 to 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Silver Maple: Finally, we have the silver maple species, which can be found in USDA hardiness zones 3-9. Just like the red maple, that means that this species prefers an average extreme low-temperature range of -40 to 25 degrees Fahrenheit.

The good thing about the zones that maple trees grow in is that, since they are in the middle portion of the zone designations, you’ll find that at least one maple-friendly growing zone exists in each of the 50 states.

2. Maple Trees Have Large Canopies That Provide Excellent Shade

Maple trees, similar to their birch, oak, and other tree counterparts, happen to have canopies that are quite large. This makes them perfect for casting shade on even the brightest, sunniest day of the season.

While the maple tree, on average, has a canopy that spans from 30 to 50 feet wide, you might get a better idea of what to expect by looking at a few different examples, like we did above.

  • Sugar Maple: This maple grows to be 60 to 75 feet tall, and its canopy spreads anywhere from 40 to 50 feet wide (they are also amazing maple syrup trees!)
  • Autumn Blaze Maple: An autumn blaze maple is a bit shorter, growing anywhere from 40 to 50 feet tall, with a canopy spread of 20 to 40 feet wide. 
  • Red Maple: This one meets the top two somewhere in the middle in terms of height. Red maples get from 40 to 60 feet tall, and tend to have a canopy that is 40 feet wide. 
  • Silver Maple: This type of maple tree gets between 50 and 80 feet tall, with a canopy that ranges from 35 to 50 feet wide at full maturity. 

It could be best to first search your growing zone, then get an idea of how much space you have that your tree of choice can fill out. This will help you begin to choose the right tree for your exact location.

Now overall, maple trees LOVE sun, which is why they are great to plant in areas where they get plenty of sun.

3. Maple Trees Make Sap (AKA Maple Syrup)

Shade isn’t the only thing you’ll be getting out of this deal! Let’s not forget that maple trees produce sap, which can easily be turned into the maple syrup that we all adore. 

If you don’t love maple syrup, odds are you know someone that does. So, you can keep it to yourself or become the favorite neighbor that stops by with some syrup once in a while. Either way, you’re winning.

And get this – you don’t have to be a pro to get your own syrup, though. Simply grab a tap, watch a few online video tutorials, and you’ll be on your way!

You can learn more about maple sap by reading our article on the different maple trees that produce maple syrup incase that influences your planting choice!

4. Maple Trees Grow Quite Quickly

Maple trees are known for growing at a medium to fast rate, typically. While some trees may take a little longer than others, most are going to shoot up at least a foot per year, often much more. This means that you will have a shade tree relatively quickly even if you are planting your maple as a new tree. 

Of course, it will take some time to get your maple to a size where it covers your desired area of shade, and it will not be able to produce sap until it reaches a certain age. If you start now, though, odds are that you’ll be reaping the benefits of a young-to-mature tree sooner than you might expect. 

Maple Tree Growth Rates

  • Sugar Maple: These trees are said to have a medium growth rate because sugar maples grow anywhere from 12-24 inches per year, which translates to 1-2 feet of vertical growth. On an annual scale, this isn’t bad!
  • Autumn Blaze Maple: The autumn blaze maple has a fast growth rate, growing more than 24 inches, or two feet, in any given year.
  • Red Maple: Much like its relative, the sugar maple, this tree grows at a medium rate. The red maple also shoots up about 12-24 inches, 2-3 feet, per year.
  • Silver Maple: Similar to the autumn blaze maple, the silver maple is also a fast grower with vertical increases in size of over 24 inches, or 2 feet, per year.

You might notice that, unlike the hardiness zones in which maple species might thrive differently, the growth rate of maple trees tends to be comparable.

Read more about maple tree growth rates in our piece on the average maple tree timeline and how long it takes for full growth.

5. Maple Trees Do Well In Many Soil Types

Two types of maple trees, one with bright red leaves in front of one with yellow leaves in the fall.

Not only are maple trees flexible when it comes to the cold. They are also rather adaptable to different soil types, including clay. Maples do best in well-drained soil that is slightly acidic.

For context, many trees are well-suited for many soil types but will draw the line at clay and drier desert-like soils.

If you have a maple that is growing in a climate that is a bit drier, you may be concerned about the amount of water it has access to. 

Perhaps you aren’t around to regularly water your plants, or maybe you’d just like to take one thing off your to-do list. If that sounds like you, we recommend using an irrigation system to help your maple tree get water in dry climates.

This CARPATHEN Drip Irrigation Kit comes with drip emitters, ¼ tubing, and drip connectors, and is a great choice for your yard, garden, and even patio plants.

Use Fertilizer To Sustain The Tree In Different Climates

Beyond that, if you are looking for a way to help sustain your maple tree a little beyond what the soil itself can provide, you may consider using a fertilizer. 

We’ve found that, for maples, that a fertilizer with an NPK of 10-4-6 or 16-4-8 has the best balance of elements that your tree needs. 

NPK stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. This acronym helps us easily list the ratio of each of these important elements to one another. 

So, since maple trees need more of the first number, we know that they require more nitrogen, and then slightly less potassium, and, finally, even less phosphorus. 

The Andersons Professional PGF Complete 16-4-8 Fertilizer with 7% Humic DG is a granular fertilizer, which is one of the preferred methods of receiving nutrients for maple trees.

For a more detailed guide, check out our article on the best maple tree fertilizers.

6. Maple Trees are Resistant to the Elements

On top of all of their other benefits, maple trees have been known to protect people and homes against more weather than just the sunThe maple tree itself may just help protect your home and yard from wind damage, harsh storms, and any other severe weather. 

Live maples are wind resistant thanks to their sturdiness, and are often planted in places where they can best offer this protection from the weather.

While we hope you don’t need to utilize your maple for any sort of shelter or protection, it’s good to know that you have a sturdy structure growing right behind you.

Should I Plant A Maple Tree?

Bright orange and yellow fall foliage on large big leaf maples in the forest.

Even as you read through the reasons that a maple tree can be a good shade tree, you might wonder if it’s the tree for you. 

So, is there any reason to avoid planting a maple tree? Well, like every other tree, there are some things to consider as you think about how much time and effort you will put into a maple tree’s growth.

For the sake of giving you as much information as we can, we want you to know what might be a bit more time-consuming when it comes to having a maple tree. 

Reasons Why You Shouldn’t Plant A Maple Tree

  • Maple trees have a very shallow root system, which can end up causing cracks in sidewalks, uneven soil around the base of the tree, and tripping hazards for people and pets alike.
  • Some maple species are invasive, so you want to make sure that you are picking a species that will not overtake other nearby plants.
  • Maple trees are messy, thanks to the helicopter seeds that fall from their branches, and the sap that may drip from any wounds on the tree. 

None of these reasons are particularly, well…bad. They’re just things to keep in mind as you make your decision.

Learn more about the best maple trees by reading our article on the best maple trees to plant – it’ll give you a detailed walkthough on the best ones to plants and where they should go!

That’s All!

Okay, that’s it for now. Rest assured that we have lots more in the way of shade tree writing. So, if you still aren’t convinced that maple trees are the right shade trees for you, you can search our site for more articles on trees that make wonderful shade trees.

So, in closing, maple trees are great shade trees. Also, who doesn’t love maple syrup? It’s a win-win situation!

Let’s recap:

Why are maple trees such wonderful shade trees?

  • Maple trees can grow across the United States (& North America)
  • Maple trees have large canopies that provide excellent shade
  • Maple trees make sap (AKA maple syrup)
  • Maple trees grow quite quickly
  • Maple trees do well in many soil types
  • Maple trees are resistant to the elements

We want to congratulate you for taking the time to do your research before choosing your next shade tree. It’s always better to know before you grow!

It may take some time to get familiar with your tree of choice, but we are confident that you will choose the best species to offer you shade, among all the other great things that a tree has to offer you.

Until next time, good luck as you continue along your tree journey. Remember, we are right here with you.

References:

Bauce, E., & Allen, D. C. (1991). Etiology of a sugar maple decline. Canadian Journal of Forest Research, 21(5), 686–693.

Godman, Richard M., Harry W. Yawney, and Carl H. Tubbs. “Acer saccharum Marsh. sugar maple.” Silvics of North America 2.654 (1990): 78.

Tremblay, M-F., Yves Mauffette, and Yves Bergeron. “Germination responses of northern red maple (Acer rubrum) populations.” Forest Science 42.2 (1996): 154-159.

You planted a maple tree in your landscape because of the shade it provides, and the beautiful fall colors. Possibly it was there when you bought the house, but now your maple’s leaves are turning brown. Assuming it’s not the autumn season, you want to know why the leaves have started turning that nasty shade of mud and what to do about it. 

When maple tree leaves turn brown, it could be because of scorch, too much watering, or not enough watering.

More specifically, there could be root damage, fungus, or problems with the soil that’s causing your maple tree’s leaves to turn brown. Assessing the issue and fixing it soon could save the tree before permanent damage occurs. 

There are several reasons your maple tree leaves could turn brown. A thorough inspection of the tree itself and the surrounding ground can help you understand what is causing the problem. If you can’t figure out what the problem is, you may need to consult with an arborist who can help save your trees. 

There are many varieties of maple trees found around the globe. Most of these varieties are hardy plants that rarely have problems with fungus or pests. When they get planted in non-native areas, though, the conditions can become difficult to deal with.

Most maple trees native to North America are cooler weather trees that don’t like too much heat. The red maple is one species that can handle harsher weather, and they are found as far south as Florida. 

No matter what kind of maple tree you have, when the leaves are turning brown before they should naturally, there’s a problem that needs to be addressed. These are the reasons your maple’s leaves are turning brown. 

1. The Leaves Are Scorched

While this can happen nearly any time during the growing season, it typically happens during the heat of summer. Scorch happens when the moisture in the leaves is removed faster than it can be replaced. 

Extreme heat can cause the leaves to dry out before the tree can pump more water into them, which will cause dried and brown outer edges, while the rest of the leaf turns yellow. As the problem continues to get worse, eventually the entire leaf can turn brown, and then it will fall off. 

High winds can cause the same damage, though it’s not typically as devastating as extreme heat combined with drought. Wind scorch happens when dry air hits the leaves with damaging gusts, causing the moisture in the leaves to evaporate out. 

Scorch can also happen if there is enough damage to tree roots or the tree trunk. When the tree cannot send water from the roots up to the leaves, the environment can dry out the leaves, leaving them susceptible to damage, which will cause them to turn brown. 

Once leaves have been damaged by scorch, they won’t repair themselves. Dried out, brown leaves will never turn green again, so don’t worry about making them look healthy again. 

What you can do is water your tree with a deep drenching. You want the water to penetrate up to two feet into the ground so the roots can get plenty of hydration. Be sure not to over-water the tree, because this can be as bad as the tree getting no water. 

Watering a tree about once a month to once every three weeks is sufficient during dry months as long as the water truly goes deep into the ground. Keep in mind tree roots surpass the canopy. Sometimes they grow several times as large as the top of the tree, so water these areas as well. 

2. Fungus Can Cause Brown Leaves

Brown and spotted maple leaves with holes and damage.

There are a few fungal infections that can cause a tree’s leaves to turn brown and unsightly. Some of these are not life-threatening to the tree and will clean up on their own, while others may need expert help. 

Anthracnose Fungus

Anthracnose is one fungus that causes maple tree leaves to brown prematurely. It can also make the leaves curl up, become distorted, have brown patches across the leaves, and make them drop early. 

This fungus typically shows itself in the lower and inner areas of the tree, but it can work its way farther into the higher branches. Wind or splashing water containing anthracnose spores can spread the fungus. 

If your maple tree is showing symptoms of this fungus, there’s not much you need to do unless it has infected your tree for a few years in a row, and shows significant leaf damage. When your tree has a prolonged experience with severe anthracnose and shows no signs of getting better, call a tree expert to treat it.

Follow these steps when treating this tree malady; water your trees sufficiently during the growing season, but keep water from splashing onto the leaves. Prune affected branches and leaves, and trim to allow more light to penetrate from the canopy. Then destroy any infected fallen leaves, as well as the trimmed leaves, to prevent the issue from reappearing.

Keep your tree as healthy as possible through this time and it should get better on its own. Just be sure to limit fertilization unless soil tests find the ground lacking in key minerals. 

Tar Spot

Tar spot is another fungus that can cause leaves to turn brown, in small circular spots, and then fall off early. This is another non-lethal leaf affliction, especially in larger, established trees. 

The spots may start about ⅛ of an inch in diameter, and look yellow or brown, but they can grow a little bitter as it spreads. Aside from giving the leaves an ugly appearance and causing them to fall early, this fungus doesn’t do lasting harm to the tree. 

To prevent the spread in the next growing season, rake the leaves up and dispose of them. They can be burned—assuming where you live allows for the burning of leaves—buried, or composted. The compost needs to be warm enough to eradicate the spores if you choose this method. 

Make sure your compost pile gets at least 140℉ and you turn the pile frequently to make sure all the leaves get “cooked.”

Fungicides don’t need to be used to treat most cases of tar spot. 

Verticillium Wilt

Verticillium wilt is something that can permanently damage a tree as there is very little that can be done about it. This is a soil fungus that enters through the tree’s roots, then prevents water and nutrients from flowing up through the tree to the leaves. 

Another problem with this affliction is that it can mimic other less destructive symptoms like scorch. Verticillium wilt can occur at any time during the growing season. It also can show up one year, then lay dormant the next year, but it won’t go away on its own.

Unfortunately, no current fungicides work against verticillium either.

Other symptoms of this fungus include loss of foliage on a single branch, which then stops living. It may infect a whole side of the tree. It can also cause stunted growth, and leaf wilting. 

Once it enters the plant, there is no real cure. If the tree is small and new, it is best to remove it and not plant anything in that area until the soil is treated. If the tree is sturdy and established, you can give the tree the best care you can to help it be able to fend the fungus off. 

Keep the tree watered well, but not over-watered, fertilize it with a high-phosphorus content fertilizer and remove any branches that are no longer showing signs of life. 

You may be able to treat the soil by a process that is called soil solarization. Soil solarization heats the soil using the sun’s heat to burn off bacteria, fungi, insects, nematodes, and other soil pests.

First, remove any grass or plants from the area. Then water the ground well. You want the water to create steam from the hot sun. The heat from the steam is what will rid the soil of the fungus.

Next, cover the area with a thick, preferably clear, plastic. Then bury the perimeter to keep it from blowing off and to keep the humidity and heat inside. Leave the plastic to “bake” for at least four weeks during the hottest days, then remove the plastic.

3. Drought Leads To Thirsty Leaves

Trees going through an extended drought can cause leaves to brown and eventually fall off. While trees are more tolerant than grasses and flowers, they can still succumb to the drying effects of a long dry summer. 

Usually, the leaves will wilt when water becomes scarce, followed by a yellowing. If the lack of water continues, then the leaves will brown and eventually fall off. 

Some species of maples are more tolerant of drought than others. The sugar maple is one tree that doesn’t do well in either dry or hot environments and will require more watering. 

If your area is experiencing less than normal rainfall and the soil is becoming hard and dry, you probably need to water your trees to keep them from dropping their leaves. Watering your trees when the leaves have started wilting can bring them back, but once they turn brown, the leaves won’t get green again. 

For more details on the subject, check out our article about why maple trees need so much water.

4. Too Much Water Can Cause Browning

Just as too little water can flip your green leaves to crusty brown, so can too much water. It can be difficult to overwater your trees, especially if you are watering your grass, but in times of extreme rains or floods, this can happen. 

If the environment is to blame for dumping too much water onto your trees, there’s not much you can do. You might be able to go out and implore the clouds to move on to other, drier areas, but I doubt they’ll listen. 

Too much water from rain most likely won’t permanently ruin your trees. Unless root rot sets in which a strong, established tree can usually overcome in the next season. All you can do is wait for the next growing season to see if the tree comes back or if it needs to be removed. 

5. Your Maple Tree Could Be Iron Deficient

Yes, iron is needed for healthy trees too. In fact, iron is an essential block in the formation of chlorophyll. Since chlorophyll gives plants their green color, when there is a distinct deficiency of iron, the leaves can become discolored. 

A mild lack of iron could cause the leaves to turn yellow or white, but if the nutrient is absent for an extended period, then the leaves will transition to bland brown. Since other issues can cause the leaves to change color, the only surefire way to tell if your soil is lacking iron is to do a soil test

To get extensive soil results such as pH levels, and several nutrients including iron, try out this MySoil – Soil Test Kit

A severe iron deficiency in your tree could become expensive to treat. If it’s caught in time, you can probably treat it with an iron supplement such as Southern Ag Chelated Liquid Iron. When a tree, especially a large tree, is severely lacking in iron, you may have to get a professional arborist out to treat it. 

They may do a deep iron soak by tapping into the soil about two feet and pumping in a liquid supplement, or they might add the mineral directly into the tree. After you rule out insects, water problems, leaf scorch, or fungus, then you might have to resort to iron supplements. 

If you’re looking for a maple tree fertilizer, take a look at our guide on when to fertilize your maple tree for some more helpful tips!

6. Overfeeding Can Lead To Brown Leaves

Spots on the leaves of a diseased maple tree

This happens to me at the dinner table and buffets, but you can also overfeed your trees, which can lead to several problems, including discolored and brown leaves. We want our trees to do well, that’s why we water them, prune branches, and add fertilizers. 

Adding too much fertilizer can stress the tree and cause more damage than good. In fact, most trees don’t need extra feeding because they get enough nutrients from their vast network of roots. Unless your soil is in terrible condition, tree fertilizers aren’t necessary. 

Mulching your grass and leaves into the ground and adding mulch to the base of your trees gives them plenty of nutrients to stay strong and healthy. Testing your soil will let you know if you truly need to add any extra nutrients to your yard.

If you need to add plant food for your trees, be sure to follow the recommended doses so you don’t accidentally feed it too much and cause problems like root rot, slowed growth, and brown leaves.

7. Root Damage Harms Maple Leaves

As well as the rest of the tree. When the roots get damaged, it prevents nutrients from reaching the leaves, which can cause brown leaves. 

Most trees, especially big, established specimens, can easily withstand a bit of root damage. When large sections get damaged either by digging, insects, or fungus, the tree can become stressed. If too much of the root system is torn up, then the entire tree might cease to live. 

While you will be able to tell while digging if you damaged the roots of a tree, insect damage might be harder to spot. Some insects can bore into a tree and down to its roots, causing damage. This can prevent nutrients and water from reaching the foliage. 

To spot insect damage, especially from boring pests, look for small round or D-shaped holes along the base of the tree or around the trunk. You might even see small piles of sawdust on the ground as well. 

Insects can damage smaller saplings much faster than mature trees, but a large enough infestation can create serious damage to the mightiest of trees. If you notice boring insects and they seem to cause a lot of harm to your tree, seek the advice of a professional tree service. 

You might be able to treat them yourself, but if you don’t get them all, another generation of insects could come back and infect the tree again.

If you do have root damage on your tree, then it may be a good reason to cut down your maple when you have the chance.

8. Girdling A Tree Is Bad Business

Girdling trees in the forest

When a tree’s bark is removed all the way around, the tree is cut along the entire circumference, or something is wrapped around it and left there, that action is called girdling. This is bad for the tree and can cause fatal, irreversible damage. 

Sometimes this happens when using high-powered trimmers around trees, especially young trees. The strings can hit the tree with such force that it rips away the bark and growth areas of the tree, which prevents it from sending nutrients to the top. If this happens, most times it is fatal to the tree. 

Insects, beavers, deer, mice, or other animals can girdle a tree as they search for food. Alternately, if someone were to tie a tight rope or wire around a tree and leave it for several years, this could cause the same damage. The tree is strangled and starved of nutrition. 

There’s not much you can do to save a tree that has been girdled. Some trees, if the damage isn’t too extensive, might survive it, though most times you’ll have to replace them. 

For many damaged trees, there is still hope! Read our article on what to do to save a tree with stripped bark before you give up!

9. It Could Be Growing In A Non-Hardy Zone

Your maple tree might have been planted in a zone that isn’t conducive to hardy growth. Most maple trees like cooler climes. For instance, sugar maple trees love northern habitats and wouldn’t do well in Texas. 

When purchasing trees at local nurseries, they typically have plant varieties tolerant of local weather. However, with the ability to order nearly anything online, sometimes people get plants that aren’t made for their areas. 

While the trees might do alright during mild seasons, when the extremes hit, the trees will end up suffering. Unless the tree is potted and you’re able to move it inside when the weather outside is frightful, it might not survive more than a few seasons. 

When you are planting trees in your landscape, look for plants tolerant of your zone’s climate. Talk to the people working there as they will be able to tell you which plants and trees will work for your area. Doing so will cut down on the care you will have to provide these trees to keep them strong and healthy. 

When you’re ready to plant, check out our article on where to plant a maple tree to learn where and how to grow a healthy maple!

There You Have It!

When your maple trees start browning before fall, it could be several issues. Some are easy to fix, some need little to no attention, while other problems might require the help of professionals.

Your tree could simply need a good, occasional soaking, some soil supplements, or you might have to call a professional tree expert. Most times the problem can be fixed, and hopefully, by the next season at the latest, your maple trees will be full, lush, and gorgeous once again.

References:

Linzon, S. N., W. D. McIlveen, and R. G. Pearson. “Late-spring leaf scorch of maple and beech trees.” Plant Dis.;(United States) 56.6 (1972).  

Douglas, Sharon M. “Common diseases of maple.” The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station (2009).

Horsley, Stephen B., et al. “Factors associated with the decline disease of sugar maple on the Allegheny Plateau.” Canadian Journal of Forest Research 30.9 (2000): 1365-1378.

Lucena, Juan J. “Synthetic iron chelates to correct iron deficiency in plants.” Iron nutrition in plants and rhizospheric microorganisms (2006): 103-128.

Spruce trees are known for their year-round color, as they are part of the evergreen family of trees. Although these hardy trees typically keep a varying shade of green every season, you may notice some needles beginning to turn red.

Why do spruce trees turn red? The important thing to note is that it is not normal for spruce to turn red. Underlying issues such as needle rust, pests, or blight are often behind unexpected color changes.

If you notice this color change, even if it’s only on a few needles, it’s important to investigate and solve the problem as soon as possible. The faster you start fixing it, the easier it is to prevent the issue from affecting the rest of your tree.

Determining The Cause Of Red Needles On Spruce Trees

Before you can truly know how to fix the discoloration on your spruce tree, you need to figure out why your tree is beginning to turn red. A good place to start looking is in the area where you notice discoloration, and ask yourself three questions:

  1. Is it exclusively on the tips of the needles?
  2. Does it spread throughout an entire branch?
  3. Is the red color primarily on areas that get the most sun, or does it show equally in the shaded areas?

If it’s turning red, your spruce tree may be ill, have damage that you haven’t yet noticed, suffer from a pest infestation, or it could even be lacking essential nutrients that it uses to keep its needles healthy and green.

Additionally, reddening can also just be a product of improper care, such as underwatering or overfertilizing. For more information on what your spruce needs in terms of fertilization, check out our article on the 5 best spruce tree fertilizers.

Where Is The Redness On Your Spruce?

Depending on whether it covers a small, select area, or seems to spread throughout the tree can tell you a lot about the cause of the red needles.

For instance, if the discoloration is limited to areas that get the majority of the sun, you can easily assume that a likely cause is excessive heat and too little water.

If this is the case, you can also check the soil around your tree. If it’s also very dry or even cracking, you need to improve your irrigation.

For more information check out our article on how to water your spruce tree.

1. Needle Cast Can Make Your Spruce Turn Red

Needle Cast isn’t necessarily a disease in the way that we would think of human ailments. However, it is a serious condition that needs to be treated as soon as it’s detected.

Signs Of Needle Cast

  • Discolored needles (specifically, brown to red hues, purplish-red or brown, or some yellowing)
  • Needles that drop after changing color
  • Appearance in especially humid, moderately warm weather

Note: Not all afflictions that cause discoloration cause needles to fall from the tree. However, it is a key symptom of needle cast disease. 

What Causes Needle Cast On Spruce Trees?

First and foremost, you need to understand that a needle cast is actually a fungus The fungus in question is often Rhizosphaera Kalkhoffii.

Don’t worry. There’s not a whole lot you can do to prevent it if you’re experiencing very humid weather and temperatures between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

With that said, those are the perfect conditions for these fungal spores to really set in, so keep an eye on your trees if that weather lasts for a while.

2. Spruce Needle Rust Can Make Your Spruce Tree Red

A glowing sunrise outlines a pair of Sitka Spruces.

Spruce needle rust is another fairly common cause of spruce trees turning a reddish tone (although many times it looks like a light red, or even almost pink, or a tan-brown color). Now, this is another fungus, not the typical disease we talk about.

The other thing to know about spruce needle rust is that the colors progress over the space of a couple of months. In the beginning, some of the needles have bits that look orangish-white on them (or pieces that seem to come from off the leaves). This is typical of the first month or so when the fungus begins taking hold.

Signs Of Spruce Needle Rust

  • Needles with bits of light orangish-white on them
  • Changing colors as the fungus progresses
  • Needles that eventually turn hues of tan, red, brown or pink
  • Needles begin to fall off the tree after the last color change
  • Typically begins developing in spring when the weather is humid and wet, and not yet too hot

3. Spider Mites Can Make Your Spruce Tree Red

Spider mites are fairly well known to gardeners to attack other, smaller species of plants. However, that doesn’t mean larger species, such as spruce trees, are invulnerable.

In fact, spider mites can be a reason that your spruce tree is turning red or brown.

Spider Mites Are Really Small

Unfortunately, as you may be able to determine from their name, spider mites are exceptionally small.

It’s extremely common for spider mites to go entirely unnoticed until an infestation is well underway, and nearly out of control.

Spider Mites Make Ultra-Fine Webs

A tell-tale sign of spider mites is their ultra-fine webs. These have a somewhat similar appearance to regular spiderwebs, although they’re even finer and smaller. These are even harder to spot when you’re dealing with a large, bushy tree.

However, you can tell when your tree is beginning to suffer from these pests if you spot the damage. You can often spot the beginning signs of damage around the trunk of the spruce, or among the lower branches. You’ll also notice some needles taking on a yellow-brown color.

If you’re familiar with regular spider mites, there’s a difference between those and the ones that are attracted to spruce trees. Spruce spider mites tend to take hold during spring, whereas those that plague the rest of your garden will come when the weather really heats up.

4. Certain Pine Beetles May Cause Redness On Your Spruce

Now, there are plenty of different kinds of pine beetles, and they’re often just as eager to infest a spruce tree as they are any other needle-bearing evergreen tree.

White pine beetles are fairly well known for damaging spruce trees and turning their needles a rusty, reddish-brown color. However, early signs of pine beetles can be seen through the gradual yellowing of needles, and evidence of beetles boring into the tree bark itself.

You may see physical holes in the bark, sap bubbling from holes in the tree, or even granules and dust from beetles digging into the wood.

5. Tussock Moths May Be Why Your Spruce Tree Is Red

Pine beetles may be a burden to deal with, and spider mites certainly are no walk in the park. However, those aren’t the only pests you need to keep an eye out for on your spruce trees.

So, if your spruce trees are turning red or brown, and it doesn’t seem to be because of the aforementioned pests, it just might be tussock moths.

The good news is that if you’re in a more rural area, tussock moths are significantly less likely to damage your spruce trees. However, in areas with a higher population, like cities, tussock moths seem to have the advantage.

Tussock Moths Are Attracted To Blue Spruces

Not only that, but they’re especially attracted to certain species of spruce trees: namely, blue spruces (although Douglas firs are another favorite of these pests).

Blue spruces are already difficult enough to keep blue on their own. Unfortunately, there are some moths and other pests that can prevent your blue spruces from being blue, or even cause them to turn red.

As a caterpillar, they have brown and tan-to-white coloring- often appearing as stripes throughout the body. Another identifying characteristic of the caterpillars is the fuzzy black antennae at the forefront of their heads.

As they grow to moths, they have distinctly dark, charcoal-gray wings with black borders and details.

6. Pine Wilt Can Cause A Red Spruce

Despite its name, pine wilt disease does not affect only pine trees. In fact, it often also affects spruce trees. Nematodes, a type of parasitic worm, are the culprits behind this pesky affliction. And the way trees begin to show damage is somewhat counterintuitive as well.

When we think of worms, we often think of dirt. However, nematodes are a different type of worm. As a result, the damage they inflict on spruce and pine trees actually begins showing at the top of the tree, with browning needles, rather than near the base of the tree.

7. Winter Burn Can Make Your Spruce Tree Red

Spruce trees are well-known as evergreens. Of course, that means that they’re green all year long (more or less). However, one reason your spruce trees might not be green all year is winter burn.

It’s not a literal burn, but rather a condition that can occur as a result of damage to the needles. In particular, it’s damage that occurs during very cold winter months. Note: Winter burn often begins showing at the tops of trees, where the more serious damage starts.

Spruce Trees Need To Be Watered In The Winter Too

Although spruce trees are known to be tolerant of cold weather, that doesn’t mean it’s always an easy season for them. That’s especially true when temperatures are exceptionally low- and even more true when the winds are harsh.

You’re probably used to watering your trees regularly during the summer. What you might not realize is that spruce trees also need to be watered during the winter.

Dehydration, coupled with cold weather and high winds can easily lead to winter burn, which will cause spruce needles to turn brown.

8. White Pine Weevils May Make Your Spruce Red

Despite their name, white pine weevils can actually damage spruce trees, although Norway spruces are one of their favorites.

The good news is these pests usually attach to trees in higher elevations.

These pests feed on the bark and move to mate, after which, they dig holes into the bark to lay their eggs. If you see spots of sap or resin along your tree’s bark, there’s a chance that’s a result of white pine weevils feeding on your tree.

Another tell-tale sign of a white pine weevil infestation is affected branches that begin to droop, and turn light brown giving them a hook-like appearance. You’ll typically see this curve beginning later in springtime, and they will soon fall off the tree.

How To Treat Spruce Trees Turning Red Or Brown

Spruce with slightly red needles against a bright blue sky

Before we take a deeper dive into how to treat your spruce tree, it’s important to keep in mind that one cure won’t fix every affliction.

Because the cure is often specific to the cause, it’s important to know why your spruce tree is turning red or brown. Hence, why we’ve included the detailed descriptions above about identifying the cause of your tree’s discoloration.

However, some of the treatments do have different steps, so it’s important to first diagnose the problem, and then take the proper steps to treat it.

With that in mind, we’ll go over treatment options for each reason your spruce tree is turning red. Not only that, we’ll also review ways you can prevent these problems from happening in the future.

If your spruce seems to not jump back – you may need to cut it down, check out our article on why you may need to cut down your spruce tree.

Treating And Preventing Winter Burn

Even though you can’t control the weather, you can still help your spruce tree avoid the damage of winter burn.

It’s important to remember- one of the main causes of winter burn is dehydration.

You can check the soil to assess how dry or moist it is. If the soil is obviously dry, it’s definitely time to water the tree. But don’t worry, preparing the soil before winter can also help retain moisture. The best way to preserve moisture in the soil over winter is by adding mulch.

If you’re looking for a good mulch, we recommend Mighty Pine Mulch.

Treating Needle Cast And Spruce Needle Rust

Because needle cast and spruce needle rust are both afflictions that arise because of a fungus, most of the treatments are the same. For that reason, we’re grouping their treatments together.

The first thing to do is reduce excess moisture on your trees. Basically, if you have irrigation or sprinklers that also spray water onto your tree’s needles, direct them to another part of your yard.

Pruning Your Spruce Can Help

You can also prune your spruce tree to eliminate some branches within the bulk of it.

The goal here is to enable more ventilation (airflow) to the inner branches of your tree. In turn, this extra air will help wick away some moisture, making that part of your tree less susceptible to fungus.

Did you know that pruning can also keep the size of your tree manageable in the long run? Read more about it in our article on 6 simple steps to keeping a blue spruce tree small.

You May Need A Fungicide

While the measures above can help prevent it, if the fungus takes hold, you’ll need to use a fungicide. There are different fungicides you can use.

In the case of spruce needle rust, you can often forego fungicide treatments, unless the needle rust becomes severe.

If either needle cast or spruce needle rust is a recurring problem, you may need to use a preventative fungicide.

Copper-based fungicides are popular for preventing these issues, just like this Southern Ag Liquid Copper Fungicide.

Getting Rid Of Spider Mites

Spider mites are pesky pests, and they’re not easy to get rid of. Unfortunately, there aren’t many options to get rid of them without using a pesticide.

Of course, not all pesticides are created equally. There are certain types you can use, which are more eco-friendly and won’t harm other trees and plants around your spruce.

If an infestation is bad enough that it’s damaging your spruce tree, it needs treatment. Before you spray any pesticides on your tree, always check to make sure they’re not going to harm your tree as they get rid of the pests.

Simply giving your tree a good spray with water beforehand will help the efficacy. This helps dislodge some of the pests, which gives the treatment a head start.

Treating Tussock Moths

Tussock moths, much like spider mites, are best done away with by using a pesticide. However, they are easier to spot, which means prevention can be a key factor in keeping your spruce trees healthy.

You probably won’t know you have a tussock moth problem until your spruce tree suffers damage. And even after you treat your trees, you’ll want to keep an eye out for cocoons and tussock moth caterpillars the next time spring comes around.

If you do notice some cocoons, carefully remove them, and treat your tree again, if it’s within the acceptable time frame (some treatments should only be used every few months, so check the instructions).

In some cases, there are sprays that actually deter these pests for up to 12 months. If you’re looking for a low-maintenance solution that lasts, try BioAdvanced Tree and Shrub Protector.

Dealing With Pine Wilt On Your Spruce

Pine wilt disease is perhaps the most serious of all the afflictions we’ve covered. Unfortunately, because the nematodes spread very quickly, there’s not much you can do. Not only do they spread throughout the tree, but they also spread to surrounding trees.

Before you take drastic steps, you need to verify that your spruce tree does, in fact, have pine wilt disease. Why do you need to be absolutely sure? Because it’s commonly known that the only kind of solution is getting rid of the infested tree.

Unfortunately, if you leave the tree as it is, it will only allow the disease to spread to other plants and trees.

Treating White Pine Beetles And Weevils

While these are different pests, they have a lot of the same habits. As a result, you’ll need to treat them in similar ways. When you treat for white pine beetles and white pine weevils, prevention is key.

Adults typically nest over the winter and then mate and brood around the tree, allowing their offspring to take over the trees in the next spring.  Because of that, you need to spray trees in the spring, or you can choose a more holistic pesticide and apply it during the fall.

You typically only need to spray the main branches, or ‘leaders,’ which will help get rid of the larvae that like to hide in there. However, you don’t have to rely on only chemical methods. You can also carefully prune away branches where the pests have burrowed within.

The Takeaway

As soon as you see your spruce tree turning red or brown, you need to diagnose the issue. Finding the cause behind the discoloration is crucial.

Whether it’s winter burn, a fungus, or a pest infestation, you need to know what it is in order to properly treat it. Once you’ve treated the issue, do everything you can to prevent it from coming back.

References:

Burke, M. J., Gusta, L. V., Quamme, H. A., Weiser, C. J., & Li, P. H. (1976). Freezing and injury in plants. Annual Review of plant physiology, 27(1), 507-528.

Fischl, G., Csöndes, I., Kadlicsko, S., & Józsa, A. (2008). Study on the factors provoking the reddening and decline of blue spruce (Picea pungens Engelm.). Növényvédelem44(8), 401-402.

Heiniger, U., & Schmid, M. (1989). Association of Tiarosporella parca with needle reddening and needle cast in Norway spruce. European journal of forest pathology19(3), 144-150.

Lewis, K. J., & Lindgren, B. S. (2002). Relationship between spruce beetle and tomentosus root disease: two natural disturbance agents of spruce. Canadian Journal of Forest Research, 32(1), 31-37.

Whitney, R. D. (1962). Studies in forest pathology: XXIV. Polyporus tomentosus Fr. as a major factor in stand-opening disease of white spruce. Canadian Journal of Botany, 40(12), 1631-1658.

All maple trees produce sap, but usually when we’re talking about the maple that produces sap that eventually turns into syrup, we’re talking about the sugar maple (Acer Saccharum). Earning its name from the sweet sap it produces, the Sugar Maple is an American northeastern and Canadian native, and it’s so popular and pleasing to look at, that two states have made it their state tree – Vermont and Wisconsin. 

Maple trees produce sap during a very small window of time. Temperatures dictate when the sap season begins and how long it lasts. The sap season starts in January when temperatures are beginning to rise above freezing and ends in April when the temperatures hit a consistent temperature above freezing.

Read on to find out which maple trees produce the best sap and what time of year they do. We’ll also dive into the equipment and some tips to harvest that sap to turn into syrup, in case you feel like topping your pancakes with your own homemade maple syrup (yum!)

The Maple Tree is one of America’s biggest timbers, with sugar maples reaching anywhere from 50 to 130 feet. The fewer neighboring trees a Maple has, the larger it gets.

The top of the Sugar Maple is round with compact leaves and branches. A tree whose inner workings rely on the cold as much as it relies on the summer heat, it’s a fairly hardy tree.

A beautiful and imposing presence, the Maple Tree is a North American classic.

If you’re looking to grow a maple tree check out our maple tree growth timeline!

There Are A Few Maple Trees With Usable Sap

Another source of sap would be the Black Maple (Acer Nigrum) or Red Maple (Acer Rubrum), although, they may not be considered the most favorable choices.

The Black Maple which also produces sap will do a similar job as the Red Maple, and although it may be quicker, it doesn’t produce sap that is the same quality as sap from the Sugar Maple. For this reason, the Black Maple is not typically sought out. And although you can get sap from a Red Maple (Acer Rubrum) as well, this sap is, unfortunately, less sweet and the window to get the syrup is much smaller. 

Red Maples buds break earlier in the year. Bud breaking is when, as the name suggests, the buds of the tree begin to break through the surface. It’s when the next stage of a tree’s cycle begins (and the start of spring at that) and at which point, the sap’s taste begins to change and it’s no longer a viable syrup source. Well, at least not like a tasty syrup!

If you want to learn about more trees that produce syrup-worthy sap, check out our article on the five trees that produce maple syrup!

How To Tell Sugar, Red, And Black Maples Apart

Red Maple and Sugar Maple are very similar looking and often confused. Both produce sap but the Sugar Maple is favored for that resource.

To tell the two apart you usually look to the leaves. A Maple Tree’s leaf looks like a hand with its fingers extended out. A Red Maple will have more indentations and grooves along the edges of the leaf while Sugar Maples are smooth.

To tell a Black Maple from a Sugar Maple, again, we turn to the leaves! As stated above, Sugar Maple leaves have more round, less jagged edges. Black Maple leaves have more of a drooping look and their leaves have almost a hairy texture to them. 

When fall rolls around, you might even get a stronger clue. Sugar Maple leaves turn a very vibrant orange during the Fall season while Black Maple leaves tend to be more yellow. This may seem like a tiny detail, but when two trees are hard to tell apart, you gotta take what you can get!

Check out our article about different types of maple trees to learn more!

So, What Is Maple Tree Sap Anyway?

Sap is made up of water and the starch found in the roots of a tree that gets transformed into sucrose, i.e. sugar. The reason why Sugar Maples are so favored for their sap is they tend to have a higher concentration of sugar, meaning, it can be used to make more syrup because there’s more sugar to go around.

And isn’t that the end goal of it all? 

Now, how does that sap get from inside the tree to outside the tree and onto our pile of French toast? During the season when the sap is thriving, temperature plays a key role in getting the sap from inside the tree to inside our local waffle House – so, let’s talk about its movement below!

How Does Maple Tree Sap Move?

During the day, when temperatures are above freezing, the heat pushes the sap up through the tree and if there is an opening somewhere on that tree, the sap will pour out of it. That’s why we tap trees!

At night, when the temperature drops below freezing, the drop creates suctioning; pulling the water up through the leaves, mixing that water with the sugar and creating MORE sap. 

So, which maple trees have sap, and how can I tell? Keep reading to find out!

What Environmental Factors Will Increase A Maple’s Sap Output?

Large maple tree in a grass field with a clear blue sky.

There are a few things that will increase a Maple’s Sap supply like location and nitrogen availability – let’s talk more about that below!

Location! Location! Location!

As discussed earlier, a great way to tell how good a Maple Tree’s sap supply will be is where it is in relation to other trees.

A tree that’s going to give you more sap is a tree that isn’t competing with a lot of others. Specifically, you want a tree whose crown is not competing with other trees – I guess you can say the tree will be very full of itself. A Maple Tree that has a large and healthy crown will actually provide more syrup than a tree that has grown in a tight and enclosed space.

According to Pennsylvania State University, trees grown without competing forestation can produce from 15 to 20 gallons of sap in a season. A Sugar Maple Tree grown in a forest, with competing growth, will give offer about 10 gallons of sap in one season. Tapping a tree squished between other Maples is gonna halve the amount of sap you are able to retrieve. 

The expensive supermarket prices for Maple syrup are starting to make a lot more sense now…

Check out our article on how and where to plant your maple tree for the best results in your own yard.

Nitrogen Availability Affects The Sap Supply

This isn’t a tip you always want to put into practice but can be beneficial for maple trees. Maple Trees LOVE nitrogen and a study published by the University of New York shows that an increase in nitrogen will also increase the sugar levels in the sap. Which, then, of course, increases the syrup output.

The reason why you may want to hold off on increasing the nitrogen in the soil (which would be a quick way to get it into the root system and into the body of the tree) is that just like how nitrogen can flow from the soil into the roots, it can also flow from the soil into any neighboring water sources, which can pollute nearby water.

Those water sources could be used for plants that aren’t happy with lots of nitrogen in their system and no one wants to negatively impact one plant at the expense of another! 

All that being said, if you live in an area where there are natural stretches of land with higher nitrogen in the soil, you’re gonna have a great and healthy spot to plant your maple.

For a more detailed guide, check out our article on how to fertilize your maple tree.

When Is Maple Sap Season?

This is the question that requires a little work on your part, but don’t worry, it’s not a difficult task. Sap season happens at the end of winter/beginning of spring but it’s less about the exact dates and more about the conditions

Before we dive into the little bit of work, you should actually learn some info about what conditions are necessary for sap to be available to tap. But DON’T WORRY, it’ll be quick, easy, and painless!

Seasonal Conditions Required To Produce Sap

There are a couple of things you’re gonna need from Mother Nature for sap to occur in healthy supply. 

Rain:

Water is one of the main properties of sap so to get a lot of sap, you’re gonna need a lot of water. To get a healthy size of sap from a maple tree, the previous summer there needed to be a good amount of rain. 

Snow:

Temperature is also a key part of sap abundance. When it’s time to tap a tree for sap, you’re going to need certain temperature qualities at play for the sap to move up through the tree.

A Look At A Sap Season Timetable

I know what you’re thinking – can you just answer the question…? Absolutely. Well, sorta. Just a little more background information is involved than just a straight answer! Basically, the sap season depends on what the temperatures are like in your specific area. Get a calendar that tells you the temperatures in your area from January to April/May. 

To find the start of sap season, look at January and figure out when the temperatures are no longer just steadily below freezing but actually fluctuating from below to above freezing- that is your start time. To find the end of the season, look to March/April/May (if you’re lucky enough to live in an area with extra long springs), when you see steady above-freezing temperatures – this is your end date.

So, for all the time between those fluctuating temperatures to when the temperatures hold firm above freezing, that whole stretch, is sap season.

Now The Fun Part: How To Collect Sap

Collecting Maple Sap In Winter

What if you live in an area where Sugar Maples flourish in abundance and you want to tap your own sap to make Maple Syrup? You can!

Sap tapping (this is not the technical name…) is an activity lots of people love and have even built small syrup businesses out of!

It is an endeavor and you will have to get special equipment, so only embark on this journey if it really excites you and you plan to do it safely (remember you’re dealing with a pretty cold time of year!). 

There are many delicious syrup brands you can get without ever having to step ONE FOOT in the woods. Like this delicious Coombs Family Farms Organic Maple Syrup!

The Need To Knows When Collecting Maple Tree Sap

However, if you really want to tap a tree on your own – there are a few things to remember! The size of the tree, the equipment you use, and certain things to avoid.

How Big Should The Maple Tree Be To Collect Sap?

The size of the maple tree really matters when you’re collecting sap! Here’s a quick rule of thumb when deciding which tree to tap.

  • 12” or less in diameter: don’t tap
  • 12” to 18”: tap one hole
  • 18” and up: tap two holes

You never want to tap more than two holes per tree. It messes with the pressure building inside the tree which is necessary to move the sap throughout it.

How To Use A Sap Spout

Just like when you hang a picture, you want the drill bit you use to create the hole to match the size of the spout the sap is gonna pour out of. A great set that you can try out is this Dewalt Drill Bit Set!

For the spout, you’re going to want to use something that is durable & easy to clean. Liberty has a highly rated Stainless Steel Tap that has a little hook on it, making it easy and convenient for hanging a bucket under. It’s made of steel, so it’ll be easy to clean and won’t crack.

You’re also gonna want to be VERY CAREFUL when you’re putting the spout in – splintering the wood around it will just create more cracks in the tree, the sap will pour out from all the cracks, which will miss your bucket – and in turn, your plate.

What To Avoid When Tapping A Tree

  • Don’t tap old wood. Make sure to tap only clean, white wood. Discolored wood could mean decay, and you’re not going to want to chance getting decay mixed up in the sap you could eventually be consuming.
  • Don’t tap old holes because it could lead to cracking and as we’ve already discussed, you DEFINITELY don’t want that.
  • Don’t use any sort of sanitizing agent.
  • Don’t leave spouts in the tree! Make sure to remove the spouts at the end of the season. Firstly, you paid money for that thing, you don’t want to lose it. Secondly, a lot can happen in a year- that spout could be knocked about, and it can create cracks that you’ll regret when you go back the next year!

How To Turn Maple Sap Into Syrup

There are a few things to remember when collecting the sap, and then turning it into syrup. Let’s talk about these below.

Collecting The Sap

You’re going to want to get sanitized buckets and jugs for collecting the sap. For some great options, check out these cute Tiawudi 2 Pack of Collapsable Plastic Buckets, that are perfect for collecting sap!

Each day of collecting, you’re going to be able to collect about one gallon of sap. Until you have the chance to boil your sap, you’re going to want to keep it below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Maple Sap is a natural resource – and can spool. And it will spoil much quicker if it gets above 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Before boiling the sap to turn it into syrup, you must filter the sap to clear out any debris that might be floating around – check out how to filter and boil the sap below!

To Make Syrup, Simply Boil The Sap

PLEASE NOTE: only boil clear sap, make sure to discard any yellow or cloudy sap. We don’t always know what’s going on with a tree and want to only use the cleanest and healthiest parts.

When boiling the sap, you don’t want the temperature to rise above 219 degrees Fahrenheit (a candy thermometer is gonna come in handy here), and the way you handle it is gonna be very similar to how you would caramel. DO NOT STIR THE SAP, let it do its thing!

After you’ve boiled and filtered it again for debris or crystallized sugar, put it in a cool place to dry (not a cold place) and now, you’ve got yourself some homemade syrup. Yum!

If you’re unsure how to boil sap correctly, please check in with a professional to ensure your sap turns into a syrup that you can eat.

Wrap Up!

There’s a lot to learn, and love, about maple trees and their sap! Let’s go over what we learned!

  • They all produce sap but only some of them are more favorable.
  • There are fun ways to collect sap, that you can do on your own!
  • There are certain times like from January – April that are best for collecting sap.
  • Collecting sap can be an enjoyable activity!

As fall is in the air, Maple leaves will change color and Maple syrup will be filling up shops and homes alike. Hopefully, this gave you some fun ideas about sap tapping (again, not the official title!) or at the very least, helped you understand Mother Nature a little more!

References:

Farrell, M. (2013) Estimating the maple syrup production potential of American forests: an enhanced estimate that accounts for density and accessibility of tappable maple trees. Agroforestry Systems.

Ball, D. W. (2007) The chemical composition of maple syrup. Agroforestry Systems.

Lovett, G. M. & Mitchell, M.J. (2004) Sugar maple and nitrogen cycling in the forests of Eastern North America. Agroforestry Systems.

Wild, A.D. & Yanai, R. D. (2015) Soil nutrients affect sweetness of sugar maple sap. Forest Ecology and Management.

Why do avocado trees grow best in full sun? The simple answer is that these fruit trees are accustomed to warm and sunny climates, but there are also several reasons why you should make sure your avocado trees get enough sun. 

Avocado trees grown in full sun are often healthier, experience better growth, produce better quality fruit, and produce fruit more frequently. Because of this, it’s best to grow avocado trees somewhere (indoors or outdoors) that will allow them to obtain at least six hours of direct sunlight a day.

In this article, we will discuss not only why avocado trees grow best in full sunlight and the benefits of doing so, but also offer you some useful tips for making sure that your own avocado trees get enough sunlight while also not falling victim to unexpected weather conditions!

There are quite a few reasons why it is best to grow avocado trees in full sunlight. We narrowed it down to the top four reasons.

1. Full Sun Promotes Better Avocado Tree Growth

Avocado trees grown in full sun (with a minimum of six hours of direct light each day) exhibit more robust growth.

These trees often grow more quickly than trees that don’t get sufficient sunlight! Trees that receive enough sunlight will grow taller and often have better foliage.

2. Sunlight Creates Healthier Avocado Trees

Avocado trees grown in full sun are almost always healthier than avocado trees grown in shaded or partially shaded conditions.

This is because sunlight is necessary for all plants, but especially for avocado trees. The photosynthetic process for these trees requires a great deal of sunlight.

In order for avocado trees to obtain sufficient energy and nutrients to remain healthy, it’s crucial that they get plenty of sunlight.

Two ripe avocados hand from the branch of a tree.

3. Sunlight Helps Avocado Trees Produce Better Fruit

It’s fairly well-established that the avocado trees which get plenty of sunlight produce better fruit.

Avocados from trees grown in full sun often have a fuller, richer taste when compared to avocados produced by trees grown in partial shade. 

In fact, most fruits benefit from more sunlight. To learn more, check out our articles about figs, apples, lemons, olives, and even cherries!

4. Sunlight Brings Increased Avocado Fruit Production

Avocado trees that receive plenty of direct sunlight produce fruit more frequently and in greater quantities.

Indeed, experts such as the University of California Master Gardeners agree that trees in orchards that have become crowded or overgrown (resulting in too much shade and not enough direct sunlight) produce less fruit.

Additionally, that fruit is usually of substandard quality in comparison to trees that are sufficiently spaced out and receive full sun.

Indoors vs Outdoors: Making Sure Your Avocado Trees Get Enough Sunlight

Clearly, it’s important to make sure your avocado trees get enough sunlight if you want them to produce high-quality avocados (and plenty of them)!

While sunlight is incredibly important for avocado trees regardless of whether you grow them indoors or outdoors, there are notable differences in how you should go about making sure your trees receive that light depending on if your tree is inside of your home or out in your yard. 

Sunlight Requirements For Avocado Trees Outdoors

There’s no disputing the fact that avocado trees typically grow best outdoors; after all, it’s much easier to ensure that your trees are getting enough sunlight when they are outside. 

That being said, there are still certain steps you can take to help make sure that your avocado trees get enough sun to remain healthy and produce delicious fruit. With that in mind, we’re going to share with you some useful tips for growing your avocado trees outdoors.

Selecting The Best Variety For Your Climate/Region

There are a few different available varieties when it comes to avocado trees which can be grouped into three categories: Mexican, Guatemalan, or West Indian.

The trees within these three groups have different heat and cold tolerances (as well as notable differences in the flavor and texture of the fruit they produce) so it’s important to do your research to determine which variety of avocado tree will work best in your area. 

In most cases, avocado trees do best in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 12.

When in doubt, you might also consider consulting with a local arborist or landscaping/agricultural expert about the best avocado variety for you and how to best take care of it.

Planting Your Tree In A Good Location

Where you plant your avocado tree is of critical importance when it comes to making sure your tree gets enough direct sunlight to remain healthy.

When planting an avocado sapling or tree, make sure that it is spaced a good distance away from any other trees. This will help prevent your avocado tree from growing in the shade of other trees while also reducing the likelihood of competition for nutrients (which can sometimes occur when trees are planted closely together.)

Generally speaking, it is recommended that you keep at least twenty-five to thirty feet of space between individual avocado trees. This should give them plenty of space to grow while also allowing them to get enough direct sunlight.

Furthermore, it’s generally recommended that you plant avocado trees in a south-facing location since this can help them to get plenty of light and warmth.

Sunlight Requirements For Avocado Trees Indoors

Generally speaking, it’s not recommended to grow an avocado tree indoors long-term.

Because these fruit trees do require a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight every day to achieve optimum growth, successfully growing an avocado tree indoors usually requires a fair amount of effort, particularly if you are growing it inside of your house rather than a greenhouse. 

When growing a potted avocado tree indoors, you will need to place it by a window that lets in a considerable amount of bright sunlight; southern-facing windows are usually best for this. 

Remember, avocado trees need a lot of sunlight even when grown indoors, so it’s best to avoid interior corners, dim rooms, or any location that doesn’t receive several hours of bright light a day.

Another tip for making sure your avocado tree is getting enough light indoors is to rotate it periodically; this ensures that all the leaves on the tree are getting enough sunlight.

Generally speaking, it’s recommended that you rotate your potted avocado tree every two to three weeks. 

For more tips and ideas about growing avocado trees indoors, read our article on the best indoor fruit trees.

Sunlight Requirements For Avocado Trees In A Greenhouse

While growing an avocado outdoors may not be an option for anyone living in a colder climate, there is an alternative if you’ve got the resources necessary: growing your tree in a greenhouse.

A greenhouse can be an excellent choice for growing temperature-sensitive trees and plants like avocado trees, because it is a controlled environment where you can make sure that the conditions are as close to ideal as possible.

For avocado trees, in most cases all you need to do is make sure they get enough sunlight and water, and that the temperatures stay warm enough to keep the plant healthy. 

Also, most avocado tree varieties prefer a certain level of ambient humidity (usually 50% or higher), so try to keep the interior of the greenhouse suitably conditioned. 

In most greenhouses, this should not require an overabundance of effort (since most greenhouses are fairly humid by default due to the way they retain water vapor) but if your own greenhouse tends to be more on the dry side, you can install a humidifier to help increase the ambient moisture levels.

Products such as this LACIDOLL Large Humidifiers Whole-House Style Commercial & Industrial Humidifier are often the best choice because their industrial/commercial design allows them to cover large areas such as greenhouses and conservatories.

The Effects of Inclement Weather

While we’ve established that avocado trees need to be grown in full sun in order to reach their full potential and produce lots of delicious fruit, there’s also no escaping the fact that no matter where you live, not every single day will be sunny enough to provide those requisite six hours of direct natural light. 

Alternatively, sometimes you may need to contend with unseasonable heat waves that expose your avocado tree to higher levels of heat and greater amounts of scorching sunlight than even the hardiest of avocado trees can handle on their own. 

With this in mind, we’ve put together some information for you in order to help you be better prepared for these different weather conditions.

Cloudy and Poor Weather Days: How Much Sun Is Enough?

Even if you live in an incredibly temperate region, it is very unlikely that your local weather conditions will involve bright sun every single day of the year. There will always be cloudy and rainy days where the sun is more of an idea than a reality. 

Because of this, many people growing avocado trees often wonder: how much sun is enough? After all, we have no control over the weather, so how can we be sure that our trees are getting enough sunlight during the seasons when overcast is the norm?

Thankfully, while there is not much we can do about the weather, there is also not much cause for concern when it comes to the occasional rainy day (or even a rainy season). 

These trees are native to the tropical and subtropical cloud forest regions of Mexico, Central America, and South America. Most varieties of avocado trees are accustomed to a certain amount of moisture and can adapt fairly well to a location that experiences periodic overcast or stormy days as long as they are cared for properly.

If anything, someone growing one or more avocado trees should be much more worried about heat waves and droughts than rain!

Heat Waves: How Much Sunlight is Too Much For Avocado Trees?

While the general rule of thumb when growing avocados could best be stated as “the more sun, the better”, there is still such a thing as too much sun even for these heat-hardy trees.

Young avocado trees (particularly any sapling younger than a year old) can fall victim to scorched leaves and other forms of sun damage when exposed to extreme levels of light and heat. 

In most cases, the ideal amount of direct sun for avocado trees is a minimum of six hours with anything up to eight hours being perfectly fine as well, and in some cases, even beneficial as long as the tree is also getting enough water and nutrients.

However, more than ten or twelve hours of direct sunlight runs the risk of damaging the tree’s leaves, which in turn could have a seriously negative impact on the tree’s overall health and ability to grow.

This means that if your region is experiencing unseasonably hot weather or going through a heat wave with incredibly high temperatures and scorching sunlight, you may need to take extra steps to ensure that your avocado doesn’t become damaged or overly stressed from these intense conditions. 

Additionally, dwarf avocado trees can be incredibly sensitive to harsh sunlight when they’re young.

How Can I Protect My Avocado Tree From The Sun?

Trees less than a year old should be sheltered from direct sunlight during the hotter summer months in order to avoid sun damage to the bark and leaves.

Products such as RUIAN-JIAXIN Shade Fabric Sun Shade Cloth can be helpful for lessening the impact of strong sunlight and help to reduce the risk of your avocado trees experiencing sun damage.

Additionally, if you live in an area that experiences intense levels of heat and sun year-round (such as certain regions of Arizona or Nevada) it’s recommended that you use shade cloth that will provide higher levels of protection against scorching rays while also allowing enough sunlight through to allow the trees to grow.

Temperature Extremes: What To Watch Out For

Before we go, however, we also want to briefly touch on the recommended temperature range for growing avocados, so that you can be better informed about the potential impact of temperature changes on your own trees.

After all, sunlight and temperature changes often go hand in hand (with droughts being a prime example), so it’s important to understand the limitations of what your avocado trees can handle

While the levels of hardiness vary depending upon the specific variety of avocado in question, most avocado trees prefer temperatures in the range of 60°F to 85°F.

Where Do Avocado Trees Grow Best?

Their preference for moderate temperatures is what makes avocado trees a popular landscaping choice (as well as a prolific crop) in places like southern California and Florida, both of which have plenty of sunlight and a fairly moderate climate. 

Try to avoid growing avocados outdoors in any location that drops below freezing at any time of the year. These frigid temperatures can be incredibly harmful to your tree.

Growing avocados in desert climates is also not generally recommended, since the scorching hot temperatures have the potential to burn your tree’s leaves and bark, particularly if your tree is a young sapling that has not yet become well-established. 

To learn more about how long it takes to grow an avocado tree as well as other tips and tricks for saplings take a look at our article on the timeline for avocado tree growth.

That’s A Wrap!

As you can see, there are many reasons for growing avocado trees in full sun. Who wouldn’t want healthier trees, better and more robust growth, increased fruit production, as well as richer and more flavorful fruit?

Because these are such great benefits, it’s important to know what steps to take to ensure that your avocado trees are getting adequate sunlight. 

To summarize, here are some key points to keep in mind when growing avocado trees:

  • Know which varieties of avocado are best suited for your region.
  • Plant your avocado tree in a location that will allow it to get at least six hours of direct sunlight a day.
  • When growing an avocado tree indoors, make sure it is kept in a location that gets plenty of bright light (southern-facing windows are often best).

References

AB Woolf, IB Ferguson, LC Requejo-Tapia, L Boyd, WA Laing, & A White. (n.d.). Impact of sun exposure on harvest quality of ‘Hass’ avocado fruit.

B Snijder & PJC Stassen. (1999). Pruning mature and encroached avocado trees to … – avocadosource.com.

F ARNOLD WHITE. (1949). The care and protection of young avocado trees – avocadosource.com.

Fig trees produce delicious fruits, have full blooms, and are an overall great choice for your space whether that is indoor or outdoor. When deciding to plant a fig tree, especially in your yard, you must consider how much sunlight the area receives, in order to best sustain your fig tree. 

Fig trees grow their best in full sun because it supports fruit production and flower production, and promotes an even, rapid growth rate. After winter dormancy, full sunlight is what helps the fig tree become active and productive once again. This condition for growth should not be overlooked.

With so many different growing requirements, you may be wondering why fig trees need full sunlight when other tree species prefer partial sunlight or even more shade than sunlight

This is a great question, and it has to do with the needs of each individual species, really. 

Sunlight is key for almost all life. It certainly makes a big difference when it comes to people, animals, plants, and anything else that is living and out during some daylight hours.

Unless we’re talking deep sea creatures or organisms that live underground, sunlight is non-negotiable!

Most trees and plants need partial to full sunlight in order to go through the process of photosynthesis which is central to their ability to grow and develop. Fig trees benefit most from full sunlight conditions, meaning that they need at least 8 hours of direct sunlight per day according to the University of Georgia.

There are many reasons that fig trees do best in full sunlight, and we’ll go over them here.

1. Fig Trees Grow Much Faster In Full Sun

Every single tree has a specific environment in which it grows the best. An evergreen tree like a pine tree could never last in the conditions of a tropical island, just as a coconut tree wouldn’t ever be found in the winters of North Dakota. 

Fig trees, like every other tree, have their preferred habitats that will best meet their growing requirements.

Photosynthesis is an essential process for a tree to create energy and sustain new growth. This process is triggered by sunlight, which helps to explain why the amount of sun that a plant receives is so important.

Why Is Photosynthesis So Important?

Photosynthesis is a process where plants use sunlight, water, and the gases in the air to make glucose. This is a form of sugar that plants need to survive, and which helps to effectively feed the tree. 

All plants, algae, and even some microorganisms are known to go through photosynthesis. 

Sunlight is one of three main factors needed to complete the process of photosynthesis, among carbon dioxide from the air and water.

It is not surprising, then, to learn that the more sun a leaf gets, the more energy it will produce through photosynthesis. 

The more sugars that a fig tree is able to produce, the more energy it will be able to put toward its growth. The more any tree can focus on growing, the stronger, taller, and more adaptable the tree will be. 

Three figs on the branch of a fig tree one with the inside of the fruit exposed

2. Sunlight Helps Shape Your Fig Tree

The shape of a tree is not merely an aesthetic property. It also influences the overall health of the organism.

Of course, it’s natural to want a tree to look its best, but, more than that, we want it to grow well and be strong. The overall health of the tree circles back to its appearance, because a healthy tree will lose less branches and will only drop its leaves during the proper season.

Sunlight plays such a big part in the process of shaping your tree. New growth inherently gravitates toward sunny areas, so if your fig tree is growing in an area with partial shade, it will begin to lean toward the area where it can get the most sun, most consistently.

Think, for example, of a different kind of plant. Maybe you have some mint growing on the windowsill above your kitchen sink. Have you noticed that it will lean toward the window?

The plant naturally gravitates toward the window, the source of its sunlight, because it needs sunlight to thrive.

It is no different when it comes to trees. They will try to lean toward the sunniest spot that they can find to make sure that their growth is maintained in a positive, constant way.

When your tree is growing outdoors with full, unobstructed sunlight, your fig tree will grow in an even, uniform manner with a canopy that is full and upright.

A fig tree that grows in partial shade may experience some unwanted effects:

  • Weak Branches: Any branches that are more shaded than not will be weaker due to their need to reach farther to access sunlight. These branches also may end up with weaker attachments to the trunk due to their reaching away from the base of the tree and toward the sunlight.
  • A Lopsided Tree: If sunlight is only available in a few concentrated spots, such as through a gap in canopies of other trees. The appearance of the tree will end up being rather lopsided because the majority of growth will occur in the few sunny spots.
  • Less Canopy Space: Due to the gaps in growth that your tree will experience, the canopy is also going to be thinner and less even. The unevenness of the canopy will also lead to less shade and fruit production. 

When met with plenty of unobstructed sunlight, your fig tree will grow into a strong, productive, reliable tree. Without this basic necessity, it will struggle and provide you with fewer of its benefits.

To combat this, many gardeners decide to grow a fig tree inside of pots in their actual home. If you’d like to go that route, take a look at our guide on the best potted fig tree soils to help get you started.

3. Fig Trees Produce More Figs In Full Sun

Fig trees not only need sunlight in order to grow taller, but also to grow fruit. 

Photosynthesis helps to produce energy that does so much more than catalyze the growth of a tree. It helps the tree to be healthier, less prone to disease, and produce more fruit, nuts, or whatever the specific tree may grow.

In the case of a fig tree, the more sunlight the more, and better, figs. 

Here are a few reasons why fig trees are able to produce more figs when they receive more sunlight:

  • Higher energy levels: Trees that have less energy have to prioritize more, and often they put all their energy toward simply surviving. A healthy tree that receives enough sun can redirect energy toward producing fruit that will taste better and be larger.
  • Fewer structural issues: Full sun conditions help to dry out trees after rain and other watering. This will ultimately help any tree, including your fig, be less susceptible to pests infesting it and disease forming.

Almost all fruit trees do better in full sun, including cherry, olive, lime, lemon, peach, and apple trees! Selecting a sunny spot in the yard to plant your fig tree is super important!

Ripe red figs sit in a wooden bowl and cutting board atop a table with scattered figs surrounding

4. Fig Trees Bloom Better In Full Sun

The growth and strength of a tree are some of the benefits of full sun, along with the fruit that a tree is able to produce. There’s more, though.

Fig trees will also bloom better when they receive full sunlight. 

You might expect that all trees would have a higher number of flowers when they experience full sun conditions, but this idea does not extend to all plants. 

Many plants love shade and can grow better in those conditions. In the case of plants like geraniums and primrose will actually bloom less if they receive too much sunlight. 

This is why it is so important to know the specific needs of your plants. This gives them the best chance at thriving under the conditions they require. 

If you want to know more about choosing the best fig tree for your yard, and how to plant it to give it the best chance at success, check out our planting guide specifically about fig trees!

5. Sunny Conditions Promote A Healthier Fig Tree

So, we know that sunlight can obviously help dry off the leaves and branches of a tree that has been recently watered. This is actually quite important to the success of a fig tree.

Wondering how so? Let’s go over a few reasons why the drying of leaves and branches promotes a healthier fig tree:

  • More resistance to disease and rot: Wet conditions promote disease, the growth of fungus, and the eventual rot of your tree. Keeping a tree that is meant to receive full sunlight dry means keeping it strong, and resistant to these potentially fatal problems.
  • Avoiding pests: Insects and pests are often drawn to areas that are damp or have begun to rot. The more water that is left to sit on your tree, the more potential for an infestation that could cripple the tree.
  • Stronger skin of the fruit: If water is allowed to sit on the fruit for too long, it can cause the outer layer of the fruit to crack. This will render your figs unusable (unless you wish to feed the birds or other little critters that frequent your space).

Of course, water is a necessity for your fig tree, but the amount of water matters. 

If you are worried about overwatering your tree, even if it is in full sun, you can invest in an irrigation system like the CARPATHEN Drip Irrigation Kit. With ¼ tubing, drip connectors, and drip emitters, this is a full irrigation system that is adjustable to your needs and space.

Ultimately, if your fig tree is planted in an area where it receives the proper amount of sunlight, it will dry thoroughly after watering. If not, pruning is another solution for a tree that might be retaining a bit too much water on its surface.

The Gonicc 8.5” Professional Titanium Coated Pruning Shears can help you thin out your fig tree’s branches, which will allow better air circulation and more sunlight to reach all parts of your tree.

How Can I Tell If My Fig Tree Has Too Much Sun?

You’d expect that there’s no such thing as too much sun since fig trees clearly need full sun to thrive. 

Is that right, though? Not exactly. 

There are some negative aspects to having too many sunny, hot days in a row. 

Now, it should be noted that it is often the heat and dryness that accompanies it, on top of sunlight, that most directly impact a fig tree. So, the sun itself is not to blame. However, the effects of too much sun can still negatively impact your tree.

​​Fig tree leaves are hardier than most, and can withstand levels of sunlight and heat that might scorch other trees like cherries or even the more tropical bananas. There is still such a thing as too much sun and heat, eventually.

There is one sign in particular that your fig tree may be getting too much sun which, in turn, leads to too much heat and dryness. 

Your Fig Tree Can Get A Sunburn

Did you know that, like humans, trees can get sunburned? It’s true! If a tree is under direct sunlight for too long, especially when it is extra hot out and there is a high UV level, it can end up with a sunburn.

What might a sunburn on a tree look like, you ask?

Tree sunburns manifest somewhat similarly to human sunburns in that the bark may become discolored and look drier than usual. Bark may also end up becoming loose and even peeling, much like your skin when you receive a particularly harsh sunburn.

Water Stress Can Harm A Fig Tree

Another difficulty that can occur in fig trees that have received too much sun has to do with the tree’s basic needs.

A tree that is under water stress may appear droopy, have discolored leaves that have begun to dry, and may appear weaker overall.

On top of impacting the bark of a tree, too much heat and direct exposure to sun can dry out the soil beneath the tree. This will put your tree under water stress, which will hinder it from absorbing all the nutrients it needs.

If you are looking to learn more about how to maintain a healthy fig tree throughout the spring and summer, check out our post on caring for your fig tree.

How (And When) To Protect Your Fig Tree From Too Much Sun

If your area happens to be always sunny, it is going to be great for a fig tree. How do you, then, protect your tree from receiving too much sunlight, though?

To find that sweet spot, the balance between full sunlight and sunburn or water stress, you’ll want to focus on certain areas of the tree that may be affected more than others.

According to the University of Illinois, plants have evolved a version of sun protection that acts in a similar way to people putting on sunglasses in bright conditions. 

This is called photoprotection, and it is activated in full sunlight but turned off when a leaf is shaded. This shade could come from a building, a cloud, or even just another leaf. 

Photoprotection is the process that keeps leaves from being what we call sunburnt, or oxidated and bleached by full, direct sunlight.

Okay, that is great but how can we help to protect our trees, too? After all, we normally wear sunglasses and some sort of other sun protection, like sunscreen.

That’s easy!

You can utilize tree wraps when looking to help protect your tree from getting the negative effects of direct, full sunlight.

Dalen’s Protective Tree Wrap and Breathable Material is light-colored in order to reflect the harsh sunlight, and acts in the same way as sunscreen might. 

Between the natural “sunglasses” of photoprotection, and the “sunscreen” of tree wraps, your tree will be prepared for whatever a hot, sunny day might throw at it.

The best part is, that these won’t hold in any moisture that the sunlight is working to dry up, so your tree will be protected without being otherwise hindered.

A pile of figs whole and cut in half

How Do Fig Trees Respond To Cloudy Days?

We know now how important sunlight is to a fig tree. Regardless of whether there is such a thing as too much sunlight, it’s clear that too little sunlight could be negative for your fig tree. 

How do fig trees fare, then, on days that are cloudy?

Might they begin to wilt? Maybe fig trees will start to produce fruit that is less developed if there are enough cloudy days in a season? Just because a day is cloudy does not mean that your fig tree is going to suddenly lose all of its energy, or that it won’t still be able to produce some energy. 

Ever had a sunburn that you got on a cloudy day? 

This is because the sun is still shining through, just not as intensely. Cloudy days may not be as productive for fig trees as bright, sunny days are, but the odd day with less sunshine will not have a significant impact on your tree. 

The less energy produced on cloudy days will be put toward the overall survival of the tree, so blooming and fruit production may be slightly slowed down. 

What Can I Do If My Fig Tree Is Not Getting Enough Sunlight?

The main concern is if the cloudy days become consistent for any reason. Over time, the minimal impacts of a day or two without sunshine will add up, and if you have a certain amount of days with less sunshine, your tree may begin to decline in its fruit production.

Say you live in an area that does experience many cloudy days, should you be concerned?

Not really. 

You’ll just need to understand that your fig tree will grow slower, and produce less fruit due to the amount of energy it is able to produce.

Indoor trees can become the same way, if there is not enough light coming through the windows, or you have nowhere to take your tree outside. 

That is where LED lights come in!

Artificial grow lights are a great supplement to your indoor plants, and can be the source of light that your fig tree needs to thrive and be more productive.

WTINTELL LED Plant Grow Light with Stand comes with 4 adjustable lights and the option to set them on a timer. Think of your irrigation system, but for light.

Even Indoor Fig Trees Need Enough Sun

If you don’t have space in your yard to plant a fig tree, you are not alone.

In fact, many people do not have the outdoor space available to plant a full-grown fig tree.

The solution?

Grow an indoor fig tree!

Now wait a minute, how on earth is this possible? We’ve just spent an entire article talking about how imperative it is that fig trees get full sunlight. An indoor plant couldn’t possibly have its needs met, could it?

There are many species of fig tree, particularly miniature or self-pollinating species, that grow quite well indoors. 

We never said it was easy to maintain a fig tree indoors, but following a few simple steps will lead you to success. 

Growing a fig tree indoors can be tricky, but we have you covered when it comes to choosing the best soil to ensure a healthy tree.

That’s A Wrap!

Sunlight is incredibly important, and knowing how much your plant needs can be the difference between a lush, thriving plant and a wilting, declining one.

Fig trees benefit hugely from being planted in an area that receives full sun, at least 6 hours of sunlight a day is a good rule of thumb. 

If you are not confident in your ability to evaluate your tree, rely on a local arborist to help you make sure you are caring for your tree in the best way.

References

Compton, S.G., Wiebes, J.T. and Berg, C.C., 1996. The biology of fig trees and their associated animals. Journal of Biogeography, 23(4), pp.405-407 

Kim, K. M., Kim, M. Y., Yun, P. Y., Chandrasekhar, T., Lee, H. Y., & Song, P. S. (2007). Production of multiple shoots and plant regeneration from leaf segments of fig tree (Ficus carica L.). Journal of Plant Biology, 50(4), 440-446.
Stover, E., Aradhya, M., Ferguson, L., & Crisosto, C. H. (2007). The fig: overview of an ancient fruit. HortScience, 42(5), 1083-1087.

Apple trees are some of the best trees to plant near your home for several reasons. For instance, they have lovely leaves that change color in the fall and are usually very hardy trees that work well in several climates. And, of course, they produce delicious apples every year!

If you want to plant an apple tree near your home, these are some of the best places to plant your tree to make sure it grows healthy and strong, producing lots of delicious apples year after year. Deciding where to plant an apple tree is a very important decision that will affect your tree and the fruit it produces for the entirety of the tree’s life.

Choosing The Best Planting Location For Your Apple Tree

There are many different varieties of apple trees, and before you get started, you will want to note what is probably the most important piece of information you can gather about planting and growing an apple tree. 

An apple tree, no matter what variety it is, can only produce fruit if it is planted within about 100 feet of another apple tree, and that second apple tree has to be a different variety of apple. 

That’s right; to grow apples on one apple tree, you have to have two apple trees, unless you happen to have a neighbor who also has apple trees.

It is of note that crab apple trees, which are very common although rarely used for their fruit, do count, so if you have a crab apple tree, or you have a neighbor close by who has one, you are in luck. 

Using A Crabapple As Your Secondary Apple Tree

Many rare crab apples in the apple orchard.

There are some benefits to planting a crabapple tree, apart from the obvious benefit of providing that secondary variety of apple tree you need for your primary apple tree to produce fruit each year. 

For starters, crabapple trees have very pretty blossoms that might be a wonderful addition to your garden.

They also produce fruit that is usually discarded as not very tasty, but in fact, crabapples are great for making jams and jellies. If you are a fan of canning or just want to make some apple jam, a crab apple might be a great tree for you. 

Another benefit of the crabapple tree is that it is very easily planted in many climates and environments. No matter what kind of soil you have at your home, it is likely that a crabapple tree will grow well there. They are very hardy and durable trees!

You can also scope out your neighborhood to see if there is already a crabapple tree somewhere close by.

Chances are, depending on the part of the country in which you live, someone has planted a crabapple at some point, But if they haven’t, this might be a good solution for you if you need a second tree so your primary apple tree can produce fruit. 

The 5 Best Places To Plant An Apple Tree

Sometimes, the best place to plant an apple tree depends on the type of tree you have chosen. Sometimes, it depends on the reason you have planted an apple tree; after all, not everyone chooses an apple tree for the fruit alone.

Sometimes, the best place to plant the tree depends on where you live, the type of climate you live in, and the type of garden you already have. 

Before you can choose where to plant your tree, there are several factors you should consider. Do you live in a dry, hot climate? Do you have a very small yard? How many apple trees are you planning to plant? What is the purpose of your tree?

These are all questions you should consider before planting your new apple tree. These five tips will help you determine the best place to plant your apple tree, no matter the reason you have chosen to plant one. 

1. Planting An Apple Tree Where You Need Shade

One of the biggest reasons that people may choose to plant trees of any sort is to provide shade. Nothing is better than a giant leafy tree when you need a shady place or need to provide some sun cover for your home, yard, or other plants. 

Areas of the country lacking natural trees may particularly benefit from the planting of shade trees.

If you live in one of those, be careful that you plant where your tree will survive or that you are prepared to take the extra precautions required to care for your tree throughout the year. For example, these trees will need extra water. 

Picking The Best Spot To Provide Shade

Picking the best spot depends on where you want the shade to be focused.

If you want to provide some shade for your house, for example, to help keep it cool in the summer, you will need to determine the right distance from your home that will provide shade but will not make the tree’s roots grow under your house. 

Apple trees have very deep roots, but, especially compared to some other trees, the roots of apple trees do not grow out very wide. 

So while the tree’s roots will go very far into the ground, apple trees are great shade trees for houses because it is less of a threat that the roots will grow out and under the house itself. Just provide about ten feet or so of space between your tree and your house and all should be well!

When choosing your spot, keep in mind that the tree will eventually reach its full height of 30 feet or more, so the canopy will be quite large. This means that you can choose which side of your house you want to shade and plant your tree there without having to worry about a very specific spot in the yard. 

To shade your house best in the summer from the harsh and hot afternoon sun, plant the tree on the west side of your house. This way, the tree will keep the afternoon sun at bay.

You can also plant additional trees on other sides of your home to provide shade throughout the entire day. This might be a good way to incorporate additional trees if you need a second variety of apple tree to ensure that your trees produce fruit. 

2. Planting An Apple Tree Near Other Plants

Blooming apple trees in a row on a flower meadow

Why settle for one variety of apple tree when you could be eating two, three, or more different types of apples every harvest season? Some people plan to plant not just one or two but many apple trees and create a mini orchard in their backyards. You can do this, too, with a little careful planning. 

First, make sure you space your trees far enough apart that they will have plenty of room once they reach their full growth potential. Most apple trees grow to be about 30 feet tall, give or take several feet. They also have large canopies, so you also have to account for the width of your trees. 

You don’t want the branches of your apple trees to overlap. A general rule of thumb is to plant apple trees about 20 feet apart but no more than 100 feet apart.

Keeping them in this general vicinity will ensure that they have enough room to grow but are also close enough to provide the fertilization needed for fruit production each year. 

Arranging Your Apple Trees

You can place the trees in rows to achieve that classic orchard look, or you can plant them a little more sporadically to achieve a natural look that you might find in a forest or grove. Either way, if the spacing is right, you can have many different varieties of apples in your yard. 

If you want to plant several different trees, but you do not have a lot of yard space, you can consider planting dwarf varieties of apple tree instead of standard-sized apple trees.

This will allow you to plant the trees closer together so you can have more trees and more types of apples. 

Taking Care Of Your Mini-Orchard

Take care of your new mini orchard by looking into some of the more nuanced things about growing apple trees.

For example, some apple trees’ growth can be affected by whether or not the fruit is picked or whether the blossoms of the tree are removed, so look into your variety to see whether this is something you want to consider when choosing multiple apple tree varieties. 

You can also sometimes affect the production of fruit based on the removal of shoots from your trees, so this also might be something to look into if you plan to become an amateur (or even professional!) orchardist. 

3. Planting An Apple Tree In A Container

There are some reasons that it might not work well for you to plant an apple tree in your yard. Maybe you don’t have the space or maybe you don’t live in a climate conducive to growing fruit trees easily.

Maybe you are renting your home and don’t want to leave your tree behind when you move or your landlord has not approved a new tree in the year. 

Whatever your reason, you can still grow an apple tree even if you are not able to plant it in your yard. You can just plant it in a container!

This method works best with dwarf varieties of apple trees, but luckily, there are quite a few of those. You still have lots of options. According to Iowa State University Extension and Outreach, dwarf varieties usually grow to be between 10 and 15 feet tall. 

They are also easier to care for than larger trees, so this type of tree might be good for you if you are new to growing trees. 

To grow your apple tree in a container, you will need to follow some of the steps for planting a tree outside, but some aspects will be a little different. So don’t use the chart below on its own. Instead, incorporate these steps to make sure your container apple tree is just as healthy as if you had planted it in an outdoor orchard.

How To Plant An Apple Tree In A Container

First, choose a large container. A bigger container will help you grow the tree as long as possible before you have to move it. If you choose a container large enough, you might not ever have to move the tree at all! 

If you want to keep your tree indoors, you can get a rolling plant stand that will make it easier for you to move the tree from room to room, as the potted tree will be very heavy once it is planted and especially after it is watered. 

Being able to roll your tree is also beneficial because it can help you move the tree from spot to spot in your house as conditions change. If the tree needs more or less sun, you can move it.

You can also move it away from heat sources or air conditioning throughout the year to keep its environment at a more consistent temperature. 

Plant your tree in the container using potting soil, and water it thoroughly right after planting.

From there, the care of your apple tree is much like it would be with an outdoor tree, with one huge and very important exception: you have to water your tree! Don’t forget that this indoor tree doesn’t get rain or snow like an outdoor tree, so it depends on you for water. 

And make sure that your container tree, just like one that is outside, stays within 100 feet of another apple tree so it can produce fruit when it matures.

Unless you are keeping your container outdoors year-round, you will probably want to have multiple container trees or consider placing your container tree indoors in the winter months but outside for spring and summer. 

4. Planting An Apple Tree In Full Sun

Apple tree in a sunset

Apple trees love the sunshine. If you live in an area where the sunshine is not too harsh, you usually cannot go wrong with planting your tree in the full sunshine. 

Apple trees need lots of sunlight to produce apples, and the most important time for a tree to get sun is in the morning when the drying properties of sunlight will help keep disease at bay. 

To find a good location, scout areas around your house that are not shaded for most of the day. Choose a sunny day when the cloud cover is unlikely to affect how you see the shade and sun near your house.

If one of the spots you located is far enough away from other trees but close enough to that second apple tree needed for your new tree to produce fruit, you may have found the perfect spot!

5. Planting An Apple Tree In Partial Shade

This one is a specific location tip for those who live in harsh, dry, sunny climates like the southwest United States. The sun in these parts of the country can be too sunny for many plants, even apple trees that normally love full sun. 

If you live somewhere with very harsh sun or you live at a high elevation where the UV rays are significantly more intense than in other parts of the country, you should consider providing some partial shade for your apple tree (and for most of your plants except those native to the area where you live). 

How To Plant An Apple Tree In The Shade

To choose a location that will provide a healthy environment for your apple tree, the key is to pick somewhere that gets some sun but not all the sun all day.

For many people, this means planting the apple tree in a location that will be shaded by your house. It is best for your apple tree to get sunshine in the morning hours and to have shade in the harsh afternoon sun. 

Determining Where To Plant Your Apple Tree For The Best Shade

To figure out where to plant your tree, you will need to do a little detective work. Before you plant anything, take some time to observe the sun at your home. Step outside and walk around a little bit in the morning. Where is the sun?

Make note of the sunniest locations. Then go back outside again in the afternoon on the same day and check the spots you marked earlier that morning.

It is important to do this on a day when there is no cloud cover, as that can affect how the shady and sunny spots of your yard look. If you find the weather has changed throughout the day, it might be worth it to start over another day when you are sure to get an accurate picture of the sun and shade around your home. 

If you find a spot that was sunny that morning but is now in the shade, you may have found the perfect location for planting your apple tree. 

How To Plant An Apple Tree After You’ve Chosen The Best Spot

Tree Planting

Now that you have chosen a location for your apple tree, it is time to get to planting! If you have never planted a tree before (or even if you have!), you might find the process a little daunting.

Never fear; we are here to help you learn how to plant a tree with some quick tips that will make the process simple and set your tree up for health and success. 

When To Plant Your Apple Tree

Before you buy your new apple tree seeds, sapling, or seedling, think about the time of year you are going to plant it.

Because you can damage or even kill the tree by waiting too long to plant it, it is best to make sure you have everything in order, including the location of planting and time of year, before you even purchase the tree. 

The best time to plant your apple tree depends to some extent on where you live. Different parts of the country can experience wildly different climates regarding temperature, humidity, precipitation, and elevation. You should consider where you live before you decide what time of year to plant. 

In general, you’ll want to plan your apple tree either in the early Spring just as the ground thaws, OR you’ll want to plant it in the late Fall just before the ground freezes. Either option gives the tree’s roots ample time to get established with minimal pest damage.

Steps For Planting Your Apple Tree

To best set your apple tree up for success, you can use this checklist as you go through the planting process. This way, you won’t miss any steps and everything will be clear as you work on planting your apple tree. 

STEPSTIPS
Dig a holeMake sure the hole is deep enough for the entire root ball of the tree, but not any deeper. 
Place the treeThe roots should be buried, but the area just above the roots of the tree should be visible. 
Fill the holePack the soil in and then evaluate to see if you need to add more. The replaced soil should be even with the surrounding ground. 
Water your treeMake sure to thoroughly water the tree once you have replaced the soil. The ground should be fully saturated. 
Skip the fertilizerIt may seem like a good idea, but it can hurt a young tree!

Using Fertilizer Or Fertilized Soil For Your New Apple Tree

It might seem like using fertilizer is a good idea for a new tree, as it might provide extra nutrients and help the tree grow better and faster. But fertilizer is usually actually bad for young apple trees.

Fertilizer that is used on new trees can burn the roots, causing the tree’s growth to slow or stop. So don’t use fertilizer on your brand new, young apple tree! When you plant your tree, fill the hole with only replaced soil and water. 

When And How To Fertilize An Apple Tree

You can, however, and probably should, use fertilizer on mature apple trees. So once your tree has established itself and is mature, it’s a good idea to add fertilizer.

If you use fertilizer, consider using one specifically made for fruit trees, like this Down to Earth Organic Fruit Tree Fertilizer Mix. You can also supplement the soil around the tree while you are planting with fertilized soil like Miracle Gro Garden Soil for Trees and Shrubs

We recommend adding fertilizer twice a year, starting the year after you plant the tree. Put the fertilizer away from the trunk, though, starting at least 18 inches away from the trunk. Fertilizer is placed under the branches but not at the literal base of the tree. 

Using products like these can give your apple tree an extra boost as it produces fruit. But read the directions first, and look into the specifications for the type of apple tree you have chosen before you apply fertilizer or fertilizing soil. And, as always, keep fertilizers and fertilizer soil away from children and pets. 

That’s A Wrap!

Now you are ready to choose a location for your new apple tree and plant it when the time is right. 

Be sure that you don’t buy your tree too early, as you want to plant it as soon as you can rather than leave it in its temporary container or bag for very long. Ideally, try to plant a new tree within a day or two of purchasing it, whether it is a larger tree or a sapling. 

Younger trees need to be planted even sooner, though, as they are more vulnerable than more established trees. 

Keep in mind that, if you want a head start, you can choose to purchase a tree that has already grown quite a bit. Some gardening sources even provide trees that are already several feet tall or may even already bear some fruit. If you are in a hurry to grow your apples, you can start there. 

It is more cost-efficient, though, to start with a younger tree like a seedling or sapling. You will have to wait longer to see apples, but it might be more satisfying to grow your tree from a very young age. 

And if you are struggling to decide exactly what type of apple tree you want to plant, check out our post on the easiest apple tree varieties to grow! 

Happy planting!

References

Maggs, D. H. (1963). The reduction in growth of apple trees brought about by fruiting. Journal of Horticultural Science38(2), 119-128.

Quinlan, J. D., & Preston, A. P. (1971). The influence of shoot competition on fruit retention and cropping of apple trees. Journal of Horticultural Science46(4), 525-534.

Roussos, P. A., & Gasparatos, D. (2009). Apple tree growth and overall fruit quality under organic and conventional orchard management. Scientia Horticulturae123(2), 247-252.

Merwin, I. A., & Stiles, W. C. (1994). Orchard groundcover management impacts on apple tree growth and yield, and nutrient availability and uptake. Journal of the American Society for Horticultural Science119(2), 209-215.

Also known as yellow poplar, tulip trees are a tall and visually grandiose tree, blooming each spring and creating a beautiful and fragrant addition to your yard and garden. Even better, their high boughs provide ample space for planting a shade-loving garden underneath. But just what are the best plants to plant under your favorite tulip tree?

The best plants to plant under a tulip tree are those that love moist, slightly acidic soil and grow well in shady conditions. These include plants like hostas, impatiens, Virginia bluebells, foamflower, Jacob’s ladder, bee balm, bleeding hearts, epimedium, ferns, and shade tolerant herbs.

Interested in learning more about what plants to plant under a tulip tree or what conditions a tulip tree thrives under? Read on for more!

11 Best Plants To Plant Under Your Tulip Tree
Take a look at this graphic in a new tab to save and share!

Why Tulip Trees Can Be Great Yard Trees

At least, it might make a good yard tree, depending on the makeup of your yard!

The Missouri Department of Conservation reports a single tulip tree can grow to over 100 feet tall, with a 40-foot spread of branches. So if you have a large piece of property and plenty of empty space, a tulip tree might be an excellent option for you.

Tulip trees are also considered hardwood trees, which you can learn more about in this article on the topic!

If you like the look of the tulip tree but not the size, you don’t have to give up hope of a gorgeous flowering tulip tree just yet. If you want something smaller in your yard, it is possible to keep it from growing to quite that height.

You may choose to keep trees small by pruning them every other year. Although you can trim it at any time, the Journal of the American Society for Horticultural Science reports that little to no root growth happens in the fall, and the greatest amount occurs in the spring after winter has passed.

This means trimming during slow growth periods in the fall and winter will keep your tree the healthiest when there is the lowest risk of pests or infections.

Why Put A Yellow Poplar (Tulip Tree) In Your Yard?

The simple answer is that these tulip trees produce beautiful blooms in the spring! They also attract bees and ruby-throated hummingbirds, making them a great way to encourage natural fauna and pollinators to stick around your yard habitat.

However, there are other things to consider before you plant. For example, a study by researchers at Virginia Tech showed that tulip trees are intolerant of shade and are vulnerable to drought when compared to other trees.

This means depending on the natural climate where you live (as well as how your yard is set up), the tulip tree may or may not thrive for you.

Read on below for other things to consider before planting a tulip tree.

The Depth Of Tulip Tree Roots Can Vary

For the most part, tulip tree roots grow in the top three feet of soil, preferring to stick in the shallowest foot if possible. But their growing depth entirely depends on the type of soil they’re in.

If the soil is very loose, the roots will penetrate deeper. If the ground is squished and compacted together, tulip tree roots will stay near the surface.

So why does this matter to you?

Before planting a tulip tree, you’ll want to be sure that the roots won’t penetrate too deeply, affecting any piping or structures on your home and property. You’ll also want to avoid soil that’s too compact, which may create a shallow root system and a tree that’s prone to tip in high winds (especially once it grows to its full height!)

The location of your future tulip tree will not only matter for the tree itself, but also for any plants you would like to plant under it. If the tree’s roots are extremely shallow, you risk affecting the soil and upsetting the root systems of any future plants as well.

Tulip Tree Roots Can Spread Quite Far

You might think that since tulip tree root systems are relatively shallow, they also don’t spread very wide either.

However, roots can expand as far as three times the width of the branch spread. So, even if you aren’t planting directly beneath the tulip tree itself, any nearby plants can still be affected by the root system.

This also means you’ll need to take care when planting near structures, sidewalks, or anything that might lay underground like piping or wires.

If you’d like to encourage your tulip tree to grow as big and beautiful as possible, consider using a product such as Miracle-Gro Tree & Shrub Plant Food Spikes. Fertilizers such as this can help supplement poor growing conditions, encourage trees to remain healthy, and produce better blooms in the spring.

If you think your tulip trees roots are spread too far, it may be a good reason to cut it down.

These Are The Best Places To Plant a Tulip Tree

Flowering tulip tree (Liriodendron Tulipifera, Tulip Tree, American Tulip Tree, Tuliptree) in one of the city's parks.

We’ve already mentioned considering soil density (although soil can often be compacted or loosened as required). But it’s not enough to only consider the type of soil you’ll encounter. You’ll want to think about the quality as well.

According to the North Carolina State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox, tulip trees prefer moist, well-drained soil. This means avoiding installing them in a low-lying area of your yard where standing water gathers and stays.

You also may need to mix the soil with another substance (such as sand or rocks) to encourage extra water to drain away and avoid collecting around roots.

Tulip trees also thrive in slightly acidic soil, a fact you’ll want to remember when you consider future companion plantings. Although most plants prefer acidic soil, some flowers and garden shrubbery prefers alkaline soil and may not be a good match for underneath a tulip tree. Here’s a full tulip tree timeline if you’d like to learn more about how long they take to grow.

So What About Shade Versus Sun?

We already mentioned that the research shows tulip trees are not shade-tolerant plants. Instead, they want full sun to grow big and strong and spread wide.

This means planting well away from other trees, avoiding shaded areas from buildings, and ensuring that the tree won’t be blocked by any other tulip trees you may plant at the same time.

Finally, when you consider a location for your tulip tree, you’ll want a place that is well away from pavement, walls, and known piping for sewer, water, electrical lines, etc. This is to avoid future complications where root systems may invade piping or crack concrete and cement sidewalks or barriers.

If you’d like to plant underneath your tulip tree, you’ll need to give yourself plenty of room to do so. Although we’ve chosen plants that are contained and easy to maintain, you’ll want some space for plants to spread out and grow after planting.

Interested in planting and growing your own tulip three? This Tree Seed Grow Kit has everything you might need in one box. With it, you can be well on your way to enjoying the smells and sights of a full-grown tulip tree.

Plants You Can Grow Under Tulip Trees

Although most shade-loving plants can be planted underneath the boughs and limbs of a tulip tree, not all of them will thrive. You’ll want to choose a plant that tolerates little to no sunlight, likes moist conditions, and does best in slightly acidic soil to best match the conditions the plant will find underneath your tulip tree.

Before you plant anything, you might use a product such as this 3-in-1 Soil Tester. This tester will tell you the pH, moisture levels, and light levels of any soil you’re considering using for a garden, taking the guesswork out of the planting process. 

Below are our favorite options for your future shady garden. These plants are not only beautiful, but they require little maintenance, and they all will happily grow underneath your tulip tree for years to come.

Hostas

Also known as “plantain lilies,” these plants are a shade-tolerant option that requires very little maintenance and will return year after year.

Hostas love the same type of soil as tulip trees (moist and slightly acidic), which makes them a great option to plant under your tree.

Impatiens

Close up shot of the beautiful Impatiens balsamina blossom at Tapei, Taiwan

Unlike hostas, impatiens like partial shade, so if you have a spot that will receive a few hours of sunlight a day, these gorgeous blooms may be a better option. Don’t worry if it’s a little shadier than you expected, though; the plants will still grow but will bloom less frequently!

Here’s one more important thing to know about impatiens: How closely you plant them together affects their growing height. Plants that are close together will grow taller, while those farther apart will stay low.

This is something to consider if you are planning to include several heights in your garden. Although impatiens are beautiful, you don’t want them blocking your view of all the pretty plants in the back.

Virginia Bluebells

These woodland plants are a brilliant choice to plant under your tulip tree, as they can be easily grown in full shade to partial shade.

However, because they are so good at proliferating, they can quickly outgrow the area under the tree and may need to be occasionally trimmed back.

Epimedium

More commonly called “Barrenwort,” epimedium is known as a semi-evergreen plant that makes for excellent ground cover under trees. These plants grow quickly, spreading to up to 36 inches wide and around 6 inches tall.

Although they won’t travel as far as the Virginia Bluebells, epimedium may still need to be occasionally trimmed to look their best before blooming the following spring.

Foamflower

Featuring bright white, towering blooms, foamflower is a tall perennial (meaning you only need to plant it once) that can tolerate partial to full shade.

In addition, this plant will grow well in moist conditions and requires no maintenance once planted (though you may choose to cut off blooms at the end of the season for cosmetic reasons).

Ferns

With so many varieties to choose from, ferns are a great shade-loving option for those who want a plant that will not spread far and will stay green year-round. The one downside? Ferns like moist, humid conditions that may be too wet for your tulip tree to enjoy.

You may also consider searching for a local variety of fern that already grows readily in your area to avoid taking the chance on delicate ferns that are better suited to other types of climates.

Bleeding Hearts

Dicentra makes for a beautiful choice for those looking for a colorful addition to their shade garden.

Bleeding hearts may require some watering if there is a particularly dry spring and summer, but otherwise can be left alone. Pair this plant with another choice from the list, as dicentra is not good as ground cover.

Shade Loving Herbs

Having a small herb garden can do more than just provide you with fresh spices for your cooking and baking; it can help keep your tree healthy and ward off pests!

Unfortunately, tulip trees not only frequently suffer from aphid and fungal infestations but can attract large numbers of wasps as well. Tulip trees affected with scale will secrete honeydew (a substance that wasps love), meaning you may have a wasp problem even if your tree isn’t actively blooming.

To discourage wasps from hanging around your tulip tree, consider planting herbs that wasps hate, which thrive in the shade. Possible ideas are Corsican or Stone mint, or something that is partially sun tolerant, like citronella or sage.

Bee Balm

A red bee balm closeup in full bloom.

Interested in attracting more pollinators? This shade-loving plant will help encourage bees to hang around your yard and garden.

Not only is this great for the planet, but the rest of your gardens will benefit from having bees around, as they pollinate both veggies and flowers alike.

Jacob’s Ladder

This low-maintenance plant has both beautiful leaves and gorgeous blooms. Best of all, it not only does well in the shade, but it’s a favorite of bees, helping to turn your garden into a pollinator haven.

Other Tulip Trees!

If you love one tulip tree, you might even want more! Although you can’t technically plant one tree underneath one another, you can plant other tulip trees nearby.

Tulip tree groves can be created by planting multiple trees in one area and can make for a stunning visual display in gardens and landscaping. 

Just be sure to keep up on trimming so the trees do not block one another from receiving a healthy dose of sunlight.

That’s A Wrap!

With careful planning and consideration, you can not only have a happy, healthy tulip tree in your yard and around your home but one with a variety of beautiful plants underneath its boughs.

Just be sure you’re taking care to plant your garden with soil quality, expected light levels, and future growth in mind, and you’ll be able to have a gorgeous yard for years to come.

References

Carter, David R., Robert T. Fahey, and Margaret B. Bialecki. “Tree growth and resilience to extreme drought across an urban land-use gradient.” (2013).

Kelly, R. J., and B. C. Moser. “Root regeneration of Liriodendron tulipifera in response to auxin, stem pruning, and environmental conditions.” Journal of the American Society for Horticultural Science 108.6 (1983): 1085-1090.

Krombein, Karl V. “Wasp Visitors of Tulip-Tree Honeydew at Dunn Loring, Virginia (Hymenoptera Aculeata).” Annals of the Entomological Society of America 44.1 (1951): 141-143.

Your Competitors Are Already Running Ads. Are You?

This is for landscaping business owners who are: