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In this day and age, people are wanting to become more self-reliant, especially with growing their food. Biting into a juicy peach or apple that you grew yourself can feel like the best thing in the world. But, if you grow your own, can you plant apple and peach trees together?
Apple and peach trees can be planted together! Both apple and peach trees have the same requirements of full sun, well-draining, and acidic soils. They can also both grow in the same USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8.
In this article, we’ll go into just why you can plant apple and peach trees together! Keep reading to learn why these fruit trees can be planted together!
Basic Apple Tree Care
Despite what you might think, apple trees can grow in USDA Hardiness Zones 3-8. That was a shock to me since Zone 8 is most of the southern United States.
When we think of apple trees we picture apple orchards where you can go apple picking in the fall. But, did you know that there are dwarf varieties of apple trees that make it easy to grow in small or urban spaces?
Yes, dwarf apple tree varieties that reach only 10-12 feet tall instead of the standard, which is around 30 feet tall.
Additionally, according to the University of California, during the summertime, a mature apple tree can require 50 gallons of water per day!
Unlike some stone fruit trees, apple trees need what is referred to as cross-pollination. They require a different cultivar of apple trees to pollinate one another, so they also must flower at the same time! Without this, your apple tree may not produce much fruit, or you’ll get some wonky-shaped fruit.
Guide To Planting Apple Trees
When you go to plant an apple tree, there are a few things to be aware of to ensure the most success for your new fruit tree.
Container-Grown Or Bare-Root
If you are planting an apple tree from a container, you can transplant it at any time during the growing season without worry.
However, if you are planting a bare-root tree, you should plant it in the early spring to ensure your tree thrives.
The only difference between a container-grown apple tree and a bare-root apple tree is that the container-grown apple tree will have soil around its roots, whereas the bare-root, hence, its name, will be stored without soil around its roots.
Location, Location, Location
When planting your apple tree you want to make sure it’s in an area of full sun! This means that your apple tree will get at least six hours of sun every day.
Apple trees also tolerate a variety of soils but will do best in well-draining soils, including sandy soil. They won’t do as well in soils that are poor-draining, with heavy clay content. Soils that are poor-draining and don’t allow airflow result in mold, and fungal diseases for fruit trees.
Apple trees also prefer a neutral to acidic soil pH, so anywhere with a soil that is between pH 5.50-7.0 will do for your apple tree.
Planting Time!
So, you now know some key points before planting your apple tree, now let’s get to it!
If you have a container-grown apple tree then you’ll want to water your tree in the container and soak it well, and then you’re ready to plant!
If you have a bare-root tree, check the roots before planting. If they look as if they’ve dried out, you can soak the tree roots in water for 24 hours, before you plant the tree. If they look hydrated, then you’re ready to go!
Since apple trees need another apple tree to pollinate and produce fruit, you’ll want to leave 15-20 feet of spacing, for taller varieties, and 6-8 feet of spacing, for dwarf varieties.
So, you’ve got your ready to plant trees and the proper spacing. Next, you’ll want to dig a hole that is twice the size of the diameter of the roots and as deep as the roots. You can guesstimate, it doesn’t have to be perfect!
Put the tree in the hole you dig and cover up the roots with soil. You want to make sure when you fill the hole with the soil that it is fairly firm, but don’t pack it in too tightly.
This is to ensure there aren’t any air pockets and that roots can grow, and water and nutrients can get to the tree without any issues. As long as you use your hands to pack it in, you should be good to go!
Make sure that the top of the soil, or the ground, doesn’t cover any higher than where the highest roots are, otherwise your tree will likely suffer.
You can grow your apple tree along a fence, a trellis, or with posts in the ground, this will offer support for your apple tree as it grows to prevent uprooting.
After your apple tree is planted, make sure to water it well, at this point you can flood it with water.
Water your young apple tree at least once a week, and in drought conditions or hot weather, you may have to water it once every 2-3 days.
Apple trees are incredibly susceptible to pests, so you’ll want to use a pesticide to keep your apple tree healthy and limit the number of pests. We recommend Bonide (BND217) Chemical 217 Citrus Fruit and Nut Orchard Spray Concentrate, which not only prevents pests, but prevents fruit tree diseases, and is even a foliage protectant!
Basic Peach Tree Care
Surprisingly, peach trees can grow in USDA Hardiness Zones 4-9. Why is this surprising? Because this includes the northeast United States, parts of Canada, and even the Colorado Rocky Mountains. I always thought it would be too cold in these regions to grow peach trees, but it’s not!
Just like apple trees, there are dwarf cultivars of peach trees that grow to only 8-10 feet! Or, the standard peach tree, which grows to 25 feet.
According to Rutgers University, mature peach trees require roughly 35-40 gallons of water per day during summertime!
Soil Type And Location For Peach Trees
Unlike apple trees, peach trees, like some stone fruit trees, are self-pollinators, meaning they don’t require cross-pollination as apple trees do. As long as there are pollinators, peach trees can produce fruit on their own.
Like apple trees, peach trees are full of sun, with at least six hours of sunlight per day.
Peach trees do best in sandy, well-draining soil. Just like apple trees, they won’t do well in soils that are poor-draining, with heavy clay content, due to lack of air and water flow.
Peach trees also prefer a neutral to acidic soil pH, so anywhere with soil that is between pH 5.50-7.0 is ideal for your peach tree.
Planting peach trees is just like planting apple trees. We’ll go over a few of the things we covered for apple trees so that you can have peace of mind when planting your peach tree.
The same thing applies if you have a container-grown peach tree or a bare-root peach tree. Make sure to hydrate your tree before planting as we mentioned above, by either soaking your bare-root tree in water 24 hours before planting or watering/soaking your container-grown peach tree before planting.
You won’t need to plant an additional peachtree for pollination, but if you are going to plant other fruit varieties, like apple trees along with your peach tree, you’ll want to leave 15-20 feet of spacing, for taller varieties, and 6-8 feet of spacing, for dwarf varieties.
Dig a hole that is twice the size of the diameter of the roots and as deep as the roots, this is pretty standard for most trees.
Now you can put the tree in the hole you dug and cover up the roots with soil, packing it in firmly, but not too tightly. As long as you use your hands to pack it in, you should be good to go!
Again, just make sure that the top of the soil, or the ground, doesn’t cover any higher than where the highest roots are, otherwise your tree will likely suffer.
Just like the apple tree, you can grow your peach tree along a fence, a trellis, or with stakes in the ground, this will offer the necessary support.
Now that it’s planted, water your peach tree well, at this point you can flood it with water.
Water your young peach tree at least once a week, and in drought conditions or hot weather, you may have to water it once every 2-3 days.
So now that we’ve covered apple trees and peach trees, back to the question at hand, can apple and peach trees be planted together? Yes!
Let’s break down the things we went over above as to why they can be planted together!
Apple And Peach Trees Can Be Planted Together Because They Have The Same Sun Requirements
So, as we mentioned, whatever tree or trees you decide to plant, they will do well in full sun.
Because apple and peach trees both require full sun, they can be planted together. Now, if they had different light requirements, they could probably still be planted together, but it may complicate things.
Apple And Peach Trees Grow In The Same Zones
Apple and peach trees can be planted in USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Apple trees can be grown in Zones 3-8, and peach trees can be grown in Zones 4-9.
When deciding what apple and peach trees to plant together, you’ll want to make sure you choose varieties that grow in the same zones. But because they both grow in a handful of the same zones, apple and peach trees can be planted together.
Apple And Peach Trees Can Grow In The Same Types Of Soils
This is another important reason that apple trees and peach trees can be planted together, both do well in sandy, well-draining soils that have neutral to acidic pH.
If they grew in different types of soil, say sandy and clayey, then this would be an issue due to the water retention of the soil, the available nutrients, and overall differences in soil and its pH.
Apple And Peach Trees Can Be Planted Together Because They Require Similar Soil pH
Soil pH goes hand in hand with the type of soil it is. Both apple trees and peach trees require soils that are sandy and well-draining, which are generally neutral and acidic.
This makes sense that both types of trees require neutral to acidic, with pH anywhere from 5.5-7.0, since the soil they grow best in is the soil type with that pH.
Apple And Peach Trees Have Similar Water Requirements
Apple trees and peach trees both have similar water requirements, meaning that you don’t have to worry about one or the other sucking up all of the water causing the other tree to suffer.
They both require quite a bit of water during summertime, with apple trees needing about 50 gallons of water per day and peach trees needing 35-40 gallons of water per day.
Apple And Peach Trees Grow Similarly
Depending on the variety you choose, you don’t have to worry about either tree towering over the other and blocking out the sun. Both fruit trees have dwarf varieties that grow anywhere between 10-15 feet.
But, before you go to plant, just make sure that you have apple and peach tree varieties that grow to similar heights, and not one a standard height (30 feet) and the other a dwarf height (10-15 feet).
Wrapping Up!
Thanks for reading with us, we hope you learned why apple and peach trees can be planted together!
Let’s recap the main points of this article in case you forgot.
Apple and peach trees can be planted together! They can be planted together because apple and peach trees have the same growing requirements of full sun, well-draining, and acidic soils. Additionally, they can also both grow in the same USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8.
Unlike peach trees, which are self-pollinators, apple trees need what is referred to as cross-pollination. They require a different cultivar of apple trees to pollinate each other, meaning they also must flower at the same time. Otherwise, you’re liable to get some wonky fruit, if many at that.
Byers, R. E., C. G. Lyons, K. S. Yoder, J. A. Barden, and R. W. Young. “Peach and apple thinning by shading and photosynthetic inhibition.” Journal of Horticultural Science 60, no. 4 (1985): 465-472.
Cullinan, F. P., & Batjer, L. P. (1943). Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium Inter-Relationships in Young Peach and Apple Trees. Soil Science, 55(1), 49-60.
Gur, A., & Sarig, P. (1982). Application of growth regulators to peach and apple trees growing under stress conditions in shallow and stony soils. Growth Regulators, XXI IHC 137, 153-168.
Piñero, Jaime C., and Silvia Dorn. “Response of female oriental fruit moth to volatiles from apple and peach trees at three phenological stages.” Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata 131, no. 1 (2009): 67-74.
Remorini, D., & Massai, R. (2003). Comparison of water status indicators for young peach trees. Irrigation Science, 22(1), 39-46.
By now we have all heard of maple syrup and probably have tasted the sweet, sugary, maple-y goodness. Whether as iconic maple syrup, maple candies or possibly maple cotton candy. But did you know you can also tap birch trees in much the same way? They certainly can, but which different birch trees can be tapped?
You can tap pretty much any species of birch tree. Although yellow birch sap contains the highest level of antioxidants, the paper birch tree contains the most sugar. The trees should be at least 8” in diameter, but larger, healthy trees are recommended.
Now you know you can tap birch trees for their sap. How do you accomplish it, what equipment will you need, what can you do with the sap, and is it even worth it to collect? Let us dive into today’s topic.
Why Should You Tap Birch Trees?
Ok, so you noticed some thick, papery bark-covered birch trees on your property and you now know you can tap them. You might collect gallons of sap from each tree. Why should you go through the hassle of tapping and collecting it all?
Birch Syrup Is Expensive
Maple syrup is rather expensive because of its limited supply and because it takes nearly 40 gallons of sap to make one gallon of syrup. Birch syrup requires much more sap, anywhere from 110 to 200 gallons of sap to cook down one gallon of syrup. This alone makes it expensive, but factor in other variables, and birch syrup skyrockets in price.
Cornell College of Agriculture and Life Sciences tells us birch syrup sells for 3 to 5 times more retail than maple syrup. Mainly because birch syrup is more costly to produce in Alaska and Canada, and it takes so much more birch sap than maple to make the same amount of syrup. Then factor in the high demand compared to the limited supply, and you have yourself an expensive product.
If you want birch syrup, it’s worth it to harvest and cook it down yourself.
Birch Sap Great If You Are Homesteading Or Living Off The Grid
If you are working on becoming self-sufficient, already are, or want to get off the grid, then it pays to know about all the alternative uses for nature and what is available to you.
You can collect birch tree sap for cleansing, vitamin, and mineral-infused hydration, syrup, or other items. There may not be any maple trees around your area, but you have plenty of birch trees lining the stream, and you can still make syrup from the sap.
Surprisingly, Birch Sap Is Good For You
The tree itself uses the sap to kick-start the growth period, so it is packed full of vitamins, amino acids, minerals, and other nutrients. The sap is also low in sugar, and the sugar it contains—fructose and xylitol—will not spike your sugar like corn sugar and cane sugar.
Do not worry about harming the tree by tapping it. When done the correct way, tapping it and collecting sap will not harm the tree. It will still grow fine, and a strong, healthy tree will recover easily from the hole drilled into it.
You May Enjoy The Taste Of Birch Sap
Say you harvest several gallons of sap, take it home, and carefully cook it down into syrup. It will not taste like maple syrup and some people complain about birch syrup, but you may find that you like it. You will not know unless you try it, right?
Why Else Should I Tap Birch Trees?
Football season is over, it’s a long time before it starts again, it’s too early to plant your garden, but you still want to do something outside. Instead of sitting inside with the “ho-hums”, go out there and start tapping some birch trees. Not only will you be out getting some exercise and sun after a long dreary winter, but you will learn a new skill with added benefits.
Which Birch Trees Can Be Tapped?
There are dozens of different birch trees, all of which can be tapped to collect their sap.Each one has different subtleties in flavor, sugar content, and amount of sap you can collect.
The most popular birch trees for collecting sap include:
Obviously, you do not want to go drilling any birch tree and tapping your spile into the hole while hoping for the best. There are some factors to look out for when choosing the healthiest trees for the highest quality saps.
Look for healthy trees without a lot of dead and broken branches. Also, you want to choose a tree with a full canopy and the ability to soak up plenty of sunlight in the upper branches.
The bark around the tree needs to look clean and healthy as well. Be aware and avoid diseased or fungus-ridden trees, as these trees may be near the end of their life cycle.
You also want to tap trees that are at least 8” in diameter. You should err on the larger side as smaller trees produce bitter sap and less of it. Keep in mind a single birch tree will produce about a half to a gallon of sap per day, and the tapping season can last between 14 and 21 days.
What To Avoid When Tapping A Birch Tree
When drilling your holes for the spile, once you are past the bark, if you get fresh, white drill shavings, you are good to go. However, if you drill and you are drilling out brown shavings, you have probably hit a dead spot.
Move to a different area and drill again or choose a different tree. You will not get any sap from a dead part of the tree, and if you did, you would not want to consume it.
Avoid trees that have been treated with pesticides or areas on the ground that have been treated. You don’t want that stuff entering your body via birch sap.
When Can You Tap Birch Trees?
If you are familiar with tapping maple trees, this is a simple question. When maple syrup season is over, it’s time to shift gears slightly and start tapping birch trees.
The exact time frame for when you can tap birch trees will be different for varying climates. In your area, when the nights and days no longer dip into freezing temperatures, it’s time to tap birch trees. In many places, the time to tap and collect sap is in late March to early April, but it all depends on where you live.
You want to tap them while the leaf buds are still small nubs because once the leaves come out and turn green, the sap no longer has any sugar in it. You are looking for the break between winter and spring.
How To Tap Birch Trees, And What Equipment Is Needed
Unless you have already been tapping maple trees, you will probably need a few specialized pieces of equipment. There are full kits for tapping trees like this Deluxe Maple Tree Tapping Kit. It comes with hooks, taps, buckets, filters, a drill bit, and even recipe cards!
Below is a list of everything you will need to tap your birch trees.
Portable drill
Drill bits for taps/spiles. 7/16” or 5/16” size, depending on the diameter of spiles
Tree taps/spiles
Sap collection buckets that will hang on the taps
Hammer or rubber mallet
Filter paper or cloth
Rubbing alcohol to sterilize the taps or boil them first
Step-By-Step Instructions For Birch Tapping
Start by sterilizing your taps/spiles by soaking them in rubbing alcohol or boiling them for a few minutes.
Next, you want to drill your holes. You only need one hole per tree. Using the correct size drill bit, drill at a slightly upward angle and only into the tree about 1-½” deep.
It is a good idea to use a drill stop. Either mark the depth of the drill bit with a permanent marker or wrap a bit of electrical tape around the drill bit to prevent yourself from going too deep into the tree.
You should try to keep from drilling into the side exposed to full sun, as birch sap is perishable. With the sun beating down on it, it could spoil faster. Drill and tap the north or east side of the tree and clear out any shavings from your hole.
Gently tap the spiles into the tree using your hammer. If your spiles are plastic, we recommend using a rubber mallet. They only need to be tight enough to hold your sap containers.
The sap coming out should be clear as water and taste slightly sweet.If the sap comes out cloudy, discolored, or tastes bitter or sour, remove the tap, discard what you have collected, and move to another tree.
Gather your sap every day. Birch sap is highly perishable and needs to be collected daily. Strain your sap with filters to remove twigs, leaves, or anything else that might have fallen into your bucket.
Keep it refrigerated for up to 7 days or freeze it for a longer life. You can also pasteurize it or add citric acid or sugar to lengthen the shelf life.
I always say, the fresher the better. If you have it, use it. Don’t wait for the sap to reach the end of its shelf life.
Sap collecting season usually lasts about 14 to 21 days. When leaves start to “fluff” out of the tree, you’ll get no more sugar from the sap. Remove your equipment, clean out the hole with water and start planning what you’re going to do with all that sap.
For the coming seasons, if you continue to tap your birch trees, move to a different area to collect your sap. You want to move at least 4” away from your last hole, and spiral upward as you go.
It’s also good practice to let a tapped tree rest after three years of tapping. Give it some time to rest and heal.
What Can You Do With Birch Sap?
With gallons of freshly tapped birch sap in hand, what can you do with it? Don’t worry, there are several uses, especially if you are handy and have the time.
Drink it!
Birch sap all alone, filtered, and bottled up is a great, healthy drink early pioneers and indigenous peoples alike enjoyed in America’s younger years. It contains antioxidants, several amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and a load of other “good for you” stuff. Some people call birch sap or birch water an energizing early spring drink.
FWS says birch sap was a well-known “traditional health elixir” consumed by Russians, Scandinavians, Asians, and wherever birch trees grow. Birch sap also has a history of being used in the treatment of hypertension, urinary disorders, arthritis, scurvy, and other ailments.
(Obligatory disclaimer here. The above passage is for educational purposes only and should not be used to diagnose or treat any symptoms or ailments. If you have questions about your health and the potential benefits of birch sap, consult a professional such as your doctor.)
One note of caution here. Birch tree sap contains manganese. While it is an essential nutrient, too much manganese can cause toxicity.
Go ahead and drink the birch sap, but take it in moderation. Limit consumption to possibly one to two cups per day.
If you have medical questions such as “Will this interfere with my medications?” consult your doctor to be safe.
Make Birch Syrup
Making birch syrup is a tricky process because the sap contains fructose sugars as opposed to maple tree sap which contains sucrose. Fructose burns faster and will create a woody and molasses kind of taste if the cooking temperature is too high.
The birch syrup manufacturers do not suggest putting this type of syrup on pancakes because it contains much less sugar than maple syrup. Some people report an almost savory, spicy taste. To each their own though, no one said the only topping for pancakes is maple syrup.
My brothers and sister prefer peanut butter on their pancakes. While not my favorite, we all have our own preferences.
You’ll need a lot more birch sap to make syrup.
According to an article by the USDA, Tree to Table, it takes around 40 gallons of maple sap to make one gallon of syrup. It takes significantly more birch sap to make syrup. You will need anywhere from 100 to 200 gallons of birch sap to make a single gallon of birch syrup.
The reason it takes so much birch sap to make such a small batch of syrup is the sugar content. Birch sap only contains about 1%-1.5% sugar compared to maple sap which has nearly 5% sugar.
What can you do with birch syrup if you are not supposed to pour it all over your pancakes you ask? You can use it in glazes, sauces, baking, and marinades for meats, especially lighter tasting meats sweetness complement well like chicken and pork.
Incredibly, there are a ton of recipes using birch syrup on the internet from glazed salmon to pecan squares, and even birch syrup cocktails. Sign me up!
Crafting birch syrup from the sap is a difficult process because of its tendency to burn. The sap needs to be cooked down at a lower temperature than maple syrup does.
If you are interested in learning how to create your own birch syrup, contact the Alaska Birch Syrup Makers Association or the University of Alaska Cooperative Extension Service. They are the experts on birch syrup.
Birch Beer Is A Great Use For Birch Sap
Birch beer is already a popular drink in Canada and is gaining popularity in northern states such as Vermont. This type of beer is the non-alcoholic kind, more closely related to ginger beer, or root beer.
Birch beer is similar in taste to root beer because of the earthy, spicy flavors, but different because of a rich creaminess combined with an aftertaste of mint.
Craft Birch Mead Or Wine
If the thought of birch beer has you craving the earthy, spicy, slightly sweet taste of something with a little more kick to it, then get to crafting some birch mead, or wine. You can easily ferment the sap into mead or wine just like you would using grapes or other fruits.
What Does Birch Sap Taste Like?
I have not tasted birch sap or any other product from the sap, although I have to say I am very intrigued. The reports of taste vary as much as the trees themselves. Some people describe the taste as woody, slightly sweet, and refreshing, while others lean toward the taste of coconut water.
The different varieties of trees could have their own characteristics of flavors, as well as soil conditions and when the birch tree was tapped or harvested. The first batch from the tap typically contains the most sugar, so it would be sweeter than later collections of the sap.
The general consensus on the taste of birch sap is it is light tasting and slightly sweet with some hints of fruitiness and/or earthiness. Once you tap your birch trees, we would love to hear from you and your experience. Come on back and leave us a comment if you tried it.
This Tree Is Tapped
That does it for this episode of Different Birch Trees That Can be Tapped and How to Tap Them. If you have birch trees on your property, collect some of the sap. It does not matter what kind of birch tree it is, as long as it is the correct time, the tree is healthy, and you have the equipment.
You can easily collect a good amount of sap each year.
Birch sap has many uses and can be consumed on its own with little processing. Studies show many groups of people have enjoyed birch sap throughout history. If you are savvy and have the right equipment, you can make syrup, birch beer, or even ferment it into mead and wine.
References:
Staniszewski P, Bilek M, Szwerc W, et al. The effect of tree age, daily sap volume and date of sap collection on the content of minerals and heavy metals in silver birch (Betula pendula Roth) tree sap. PLoS One. 2020;15(12):e0244435. Published 2020 Dec 29. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0244435
Ana I. Sancho, Tina Birk, Juliane M. Gregersen, Tage Rønne, Sofie E. Hornslet, Anne M. Madsen, Katrine L. Bøgh, Microbial safety and protein composition of birch sap, Journal of Food Composition and Analysis, 10.1016/j.jfca.2021.104347, 107, (104347), (2022).
Jeong, S.-J., Lee, C.-H., Kim, H.-Y., Lee, S.-H., Hwang, I.-G., Shin, C.-S., … Jeong, H.-S. (2012, January 31). Quality Characteristics of the White Birch Sap with Varying Collection Periods. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition. The Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition. https://doi.org/10.3746/jkfn.2012.41.1.143
If you have a cedar tree as a part of your yard, it’s likely to serve as a staple in your landscaping for decades to come. With all that potential curb appeal just sitting under your tree waiting to be discovered, we’ve got some recommendations on what you can plant under cedar trees to help make the area underneath come across as more than just an empty, unused space.
For a plant to be compatible with your cedar tree, it cannot take nutrients from your tree and has to be shade tolerant. So, what can you plant under a cedar tree?
Wintergreen
Bugleweed
Periwinkle
Hosta
Bergenia
Columbine
Ice Plant
Chinese Lantern Plants
Oakleaf Hydrangea
Lungwort
Foam flower
Partridge berry
So, sit back, relax, and let’s take a deeper dive into what to consider before you plant and how to pick the best plants from this list that will give your yard a pop of color while making your cedar more attractive.
Can You Actually Grow Plants Under A Cedar Tree?
Since we’re writing this article, we hope you know the answer to this question is a resounding yes. You can plant a variety of flowers, shrubs, and other ground covers underneath a cedar tree and have them thrive!
Now don’t get us wrong, there are a handful of environmental factors out of our control. These can also affect what type of vegetation you can grow under your cedar, and in your yard in general.
We already mentioned the shade these trees provide, but the soil composition and root systems, as well as the average rainfall in your area, are all also important aspects to take into consideration before planting under your cedar, or really anywhere in your yard.
The U.S. Forest Service Pacific Northwest Research Station has conducted several studies on the importance of maintaining your cedar tree’s health through thinning and fertilization in its younger years. So, you want to make sure the plants you’re adding to the nearby soil don’t take away any of the key nutrients your cedar needs.
The different varieties of cedar trees should also be taken into consideration. However, lucky for you, our 12 recommended plants cover a wide variety of vegetation that will be able to thrive under these trees, all while your cedar maintains the nutrients it needs to stay healthy.
Maybe you are looking for advice on other varieties of trees. If so, check out our guides on what to plant under a pine, oak, and maple tree, just for a start!
5 Best Perennial Flowering Plants To Plant Under A Cedar Tree
Hosta, also named Funkia, white leaves with green borders, favorite ornamental plant close-up
Considering I myself have trouble keeping the difference between annuals and perennials straight, let this note serve as your friendly reminder. A perennial is a plant that will live for more than one growing season.
Since these plants go dormant during the winter months, this means there’s less work for you because you won’t have to replant them when the next growing season comes around!
Here are some of the best flowering plants to grow under your cedar tree:
Hosta
Bergenia
Columbine
Chinese Lantern Plants
Lungwort
Some of these plants may be unfamiliar names for you, and that’s okay. The goal is to pick the best plants for our yard, so we’ve also created a reference or cheat sheet on each of these plants and their various requirements so you can ensure you’re picking the right plant for your tree and have it grow successfully.
1. Hosta
I have a handful of these plants on the side of my house, and I love them! They thrive with minimal sunlight, and they require nearly no maintenance. These low-key requirements mean Hosta plants would make a wonderful addition under your cedar tree.
Shade level: Partial shade to full shade
Water level: Well drained
Flower color: White
2. Bergenia
These flowers are straight out of a fairy garden. With their thicker stems and large stems propping the flowers up when they’re in bloom, this plant makes a statement all on its own.
Shade level: Partial shade to full shade
Water level: Moist
Flower color: Pink, red, white
3. Columbine
Like the Bergenia, the Columbine plant has tall stalks that hold up their flowering blooms above the rest of the plant. These flowers are also bell-shaped which, other than just being nice to look at, helps to attract some additional winged creatures to your yard and can help with the pollination of your plants!
Shade level: Partial shade
Water level: Moist but well drained
Flower color: Red, orange, yellow, blue, purple
4. Chinese Lantern Plants
While these plants have flowers, the real draw to this plant is their seed pods, or -you guessed it- their lanterns.
The lantern pod itself is a cover for the fruit this plant bears, but be aware that the fruit inside is toxic to people, so we would recommend that this plant be planted in a container instead of the ground itself in case it ever needs to be removed from your landscaping plan.
Shade level: Partial Shade
Water level: Moist but well drained
Flower color: White
5. Lungwort
Lungwort flowers are usually bell or funnel-shaped, making them another eye-appealing piece to add to your landscaping. While the flowers themselves can add a nice pop of color while in bloom, the speckled leaves of this plant are a fun addition that helps outlast the blooms for some added color throughout the warmer seasons.
Shade level: Partial shade to full shade
Water level: Moist but well drained
Flower color: Blue, pink, white
2 Best Shrubs To Plant Under A Cedar Tree
Now when we say shrubs, I know our minds go picturing huge shrubs, bushes, hedges, and everything of the like that you would never imagine could grow successfully under a cedar.
Rest assured, we’ve got a couple of less drastic shrub options that will work just as well under your cedar and not require much maintenance.
1. Wintergreen
These plants will sport red berries that are edible but are also so much more. Other than adding to your landscape, you can use the leaves themselves in tea. Also, when the holidays come around, propagating your wintergreen plant can make a splendid gift!
Shade level: Partial shade
Water level: Well drained
Flower color: Small white flowers followed by red berries
2. Oakleaf Hydrangea
There are a variety of hydrangea shrubs to choose from, but the Oakleaf is one of my favorites because of its leaf shape, which resembles the leaves of an oak tree. Depending on the size of your cedar, this particular plant can bloom up to 6 feet tall, so do your best to plan accordingly.
Like all other hydrangeas, these plants have higher toxicity to humans and our pets, so we recommend carefully creating your landscaping plans before you dig holes for your plants.
Shade level: Partial shade
Water level: Moist but well drained
Flower color: White
5 Best Ground Covers To Plant Under A Cedar Tree
I love a good ground covering plant. Their maintenance is low, and they thrive in a variety of different environments, which makes them a great option for covering up the open area under your cedar and adding that piece of color to keep it interesting.
There are a lot of options within this group, but here are our top five picks:
Bugleweed
Periwinkle
Ice plant
Foam flower
Partridge berry
Now, let’s check out the specifics for each plant so we know what could work best for our yard.
1. Bugleweed
Don’t let the word “weed” in its name fool you- this plant looks nothing like a weed and is great at choking out any weeds that might be in the area. This plant can reach up to ten inches tall, so it’s a nice height option to use while blending and filling in the area with other plants.
Shade level: Partial shade
Water level: Well drained
Flower color: Blue, violet
2. Periwinkle
This is a plant we probably all know, but more as a flower as opposed to its ground-covering capabilities. While Periwinkle doesn’t grow more than six inches tall, it has trailing vines that can grow to a foot and a half in length once it’s fully mature.
Shade level: Partial shade to full shade
Water level: Dry
Flower color: Blue, purple, white
3. Ice Plant
Despite the chilly theme in its name, this plant prefers warmer weather. The Ice Plant gets its name from its tiny hairs that can reflect light and appear as ice crystals. This plant also has a unique, succulent style look to it, which is yet another reason it makes our list.
Shade level: Partial shade
Water level: Dry, well-drained
Flower color: Pink, red, purple, orange, yellow
4. Foam Flower
In addition to its long bloom period, this wildflower has some spectacular red-colored variations on its leaves. This plant loves the shade, which makes it a great option for being planted under your cedar. However, be careful to plan your use of this plant as it can grow up to three feet tall.
Shade level: Partial shade
Water level: Well drained
Flower color: White with pink
5. Partridge Berry
This plant is a treat for the eyes in the bitter days of winter because the partridge berry plant keeps its dark green leaves and red berries during the colder months.
Similar to the Wintergreen plant, if you propagate this plant successfully, they can make a wonderful gift during the holiday or serve as a tasteful addition to your floral decorations during the Christmas season.
Shade level: Partial shade to full shade
Water level: Dry
Flower color: White
Some More Variables To Consider
We know we covered a lot of information, and you now have more plant options to choose from than could fit under even the largest of cedar trees.
To that point, though, we wanted to highlight the differences between some requirements for these plants to make sure that you have the best planning guide for brightening up the area underneath your cedar tree.
We’ve talked about the amount of shade that a cedar tree can provide, and the amount of shade trees provided grows right along with the tree itself.
The closer you are to the base of the tree, the more shade you’ll be under. On the other hand, the closer you get to the edge of the tree, you’ll see the ground will get various peeks of sunshine throughout the day.
For the plants on our list that prefer full shade, we would recommend that these plants be planted closer to the trunk of your tree.
For the plants that may thrive in partial shade, we recommend planting these closer to the outskirts of the canopy of the cedar so that the plants can get both sunlight and shade.
Soil Type
This factor isn’t something that we can always control. Some areas have more clay or sand in their soil than other areas, and this is a factor to keep in mind, even if you can’t necessarily treat or rectify it.
The thing to keep in mind about the type of soil you have is that it can ultimately affect the moisture level of the ground, and as a result, the amount of water that’s available for your plants.
Watering your plants and trees is important, but you should stick to a schedule! Read our article on exactly how much to water your plants to keep your garden healthy and thriving.
If too many plants are in a concentrated area, like under your cedar tree, these added plants might take nutrients and water away from your cedar tree.
On the other side, if you notice the ground is always wet under your tree, adding more plants underneath should help absorb this excess moisture, and, as a result, your cedar tree and the newly added plants should equally thrive.
Do some digging–literally–to see what type of soil you have and how it retains water, and learn how to check your soil pH with our help tosee what could help your under-tree area come alive.
You could also try a Luster Leaf Soil Test Kit to test your soil and gain additional information like pH and nitrogen levels.
Putting It All Together
At this point, we know that you’re ready to rock and roll and get to shopping and, ultimately, planting.
Don’t forget to keep in mind the needs of each plant you’re adding to your yard, as well as underneath your cedar, to know how they’ll work together.
By carefully choosing and planting some suggestions from our list, and maybe even checking out The Well-Tended Perennial Garden book, you will keep the ground under your cedar looking like a glamor shot from a garden catalog!
References
Heathman, G. C., Cosh, M. H., Merwade, V., & Han, E. (2012). Multi-scale temporal stability analysis of surface and subsurface soil moisture within the Upper Cedar Creek Watershed, Indiana. Catena, 95, 91-103.
Sauer, T. J., Cambardella, C. A., & Meek, D. W. (2006). Spatial variation of soil properties relating to vegetation changes. Plant and soil, 280(1), 1-5.
Tan, F. C., & Swain, S. M. (2006). Genetics of flower initiation and development in annual and perennial plants. Physiologia Plantarum, 128(1), 8-17.
Although beautiful from afar, a Tree of Heaven can be problematic. In North America, the Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus Altissima) is considered to be an invasive species, due to its ability to shade out native trees. The female Tree of Heaven can produce as many as 300,000 seeds per year, all of which are dispersed by wind alone. With the Tree of Heaven’s quick growth rate, it consistently outcompetes native plants for sunlight, and when it wins, it forms dense colonies that cover the plants below it, causing them to deteriorate.
Since the Tree of Heaven is considered undesirable, it’s important to identify it from other trees. Similar-looking trees such as species of ash trees, hickory trees, and walnut trees, can be distinguished from the Tree of Heaven by the differences in leaflet shape, the fruits of the trees, or by seeds they produce.
Below, we will go over the look-alike species that you may find, how to identify them, and how to get rid of the Tree of Heaven if you spot one on your property. So, keep on reading to find out more!
Where Does The Tree Of Heaven Grow?
The Tree of Heaven was introduced from China to North America in the late 1700s. First seen in Pennsylvania, the Tree of Heaven is considered ornamental as it’s aesthetically pleasing, although very ugly to nearby vegetation. The Tree of Heaven has since spread across the United States and can be found in hardiness zones 5 through 8, and parts of Eastern Canada.
The Tree of Heaven can be found in abundance around the Mediterranean area of Europe but has been limited in spreading to northern parts of Europe because of cold weather. The Tree of Heaven can also be found in the north and southern parts of Africa, southern South America, and Australia, although it is not widespread in any of those areas just yet. Further, in its native range, the Tree of Heaven grows in Northeast China, Central China, and Taiwan.
Apart from just it’s location on the globe, the Tree of Heaven does not grow well in shade, and it usually grows after a site disturbance. After an environmental disturbance, like a forest fire or windstorm, sunlight is more able to reach a forest floor, and once the sunlight gets to any seeds of a Tree of Heaven – these trees will quicklyoutgrow anything else.
Why Is The Tree Of Heaven A Problem?
As beautiful as it is, the Tree of Heaven creates a lot of problems for surrounding vegetation around it!
The Tree Of Heaven Produces Invasive Root Suckers That Take Over Surrounding Vegetation
According to Pennsylvania State University, not only can the Tree of Heaven produce 300,000 wind dispersed seeds per year, it can also spread by root suckers. Root suckers are growths that arise from the roots, up to 50 feet from the parent Tree of Heaven, and those little root suckers will turn into full grown clones of the parent tree. Tree of Heaven root suckers can start producing seeds in as little as 2 years, and a lot of problems quickly come from it.
The Tree of Heaven is a problem because the abundance of seeds and root suckers it produces allows it to completely take over a site. Since the Tree of Heaven can grow 10 to 15 feet per year, they quickly outcompete the native vegetation in the area. The Tree of Heaven produces an allelochemical called Ailanthone, into the surrounding soil which prevents other plants from growing.
Another problem that arises with the Tree of Heaven is that it produces an unpleasant odor – from its flowers, and also from any part of the tree that is damaged.
Since the Tree of Heaven has little wildlife value, with most grazers finding it unpalatable, it causes major ecosystem disruptions by displacing not only other plants, but the wildlife that’s in the area that it takes over.
Why Is It Called The Tree Of Heaven?
You may be wondering: why does an invasive tree that smells bad be referred to as the Tree of Heaven? Well, when the common name Tree of Heaven was given to the tree, it was due to its rapid growth rate towards the sky or Heaven.
Even the scientific name for the Tree of Heaven refers to its rapid growth rate. The genus name, Ailanthus, means ‘sky-tree’, and the specific epithet, Altissima, means ‘tallest’.
However, it is also believed that the name Tree of Heaven was created as a marketing strategy to get homeowners to plant the Tree of Heaven.
For more info on where the title “tree” comes from – check out our article Why Trees Are Called Trees, it’s so interesting!
Trees That Look Like The Tree Of Heaven
There are many native and non-native trees in North America that resemble the Tree of Heaven.
Below we will discuss the features of each species or genus which looks like the Tree of Heaven and how they can be distinguished from one another. We will focus on the easiest characteristics that can be used to identify these similar looking trees from the Tree of Heaven.
1. Walnut Trees (Juglans spp.) Vs. Tree Of Heaven
The walnut tree looks like the Tree of Heaven, but there are a few differences between the two!
Both Trees Have Compound Leafs
Walnut trees are often confused with Tree of Heaven due to them both having pinnately compound leaves. A pinnately compound leaf is made up of a central elongated petiole called the rachis which has a row of leaflets on either side. Pinnately compound leaves may or may not have a leaflet at the tip.
Walnut tree leaves differ from a Tree of Heaven by having serrated or toothed margins along the edges of each leaflet. The leaflets on the tree of heaven leaves have smooth margins except for one rounded tooth, called a glandular tooth, at the base of each leaflet.
They Produce Different Fruits
Another major difference between walnut trees and Tree of Heaven is the type of fruit or seeds they produce. Walnut trees produce a nut that is covered by a shell and a husk (picture a walnut that is in the genus Juglans). Tree of heaven produces samara, which is a dry indehiscent seed with an elongated papery wing allowing it to be dispersed by wind.
Two of the main walnut trees which are confused with the Tree of Heaven are the black walnut tree (Juglans Nigra) and the butternut tree (Juglans cinerea). The chart below lists walnut species in North America that can look like the Tree of Heaven.
Ash trees can also be confused with the Tree of Heaven due to both having pinnately compound leaves.
Ash leaves can be distinguished from the Tree of Heaven by the growth of the leaves on the branch. Ash tree leaves grow in an opposite pattern with one leaf directly across from the other on a branch. A Tree of Heaven’s leaves has an alternate pattern with leaves that never grow directly across from one another on a branch.
There are many ash trees which can be confused with the Tree of Heaven due to the pinnately compound leaves including Green Ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica) and White Ash (Fraxinus americana). Below is a list of ash trees found in North America which can look like the Tree of Heaven !
Hand holding a leaf of ailanthus (Ailanthus Altissima) in outdoor background
While hickory trees also have pinnately compound leaves like the Tree of Heaven, they typically have fewer than 11 leaflets per leaf which are fewer than the Tree of Heaven’s. The leaflets also have serrated margins while the Tree of Heaven’s leaflet is smooth with only a single tooth on each side of the base.
A hickory tree’s fruits are also much different from that of the Tree of Heaven. The fruits of hickory are nuts which are encased in a hard shell and husk (think pecans which are also in the genus Carya).
Below is a list of other hickory trees found in North America that can look like tree of heaven.
Common Name
Scientific Name
Range in North America
Water hickory
Carya aquatica
Southeast
Butternut hickory
Carya cordiformis
East, South
Scrub hickory
Carya floridana
Fl
Pignut hickory
Carya glabra
East, South
Pecan
Carya illinoinensis
East, South
Shellbark hickory
Carya laciniosa
East, South
Nutmeg hickory
Carya myristiciformis
South
Red hickory
Carya ovalis
East
Shagbark hickory
Carya ovata
East, South, Midwest
Sand hickory
Carya pallida
Southeast
Black hickory
Carya texana
Southeast, South
Mockernut hickory
Carya tomentosa
East, South
4. Sumac Shrubs (Rhus Spp.) Vs. Tree Of Heaven
Sumac shrubs are usually only confused with the Tree of Heaven when the Tree of Heaven is young, as it can be confused with other shrubs – however, there are some great ways to identify and tell them apart!
You Can Identify Them By Their Leaves
Both sumac and the Tree of Heaven have pinnately compound leaves. However, some sumacs such as Staghorn Sumac (Rhus Typhina) have serrated margins on the leaflets which distinguish it from the Tree of Heaven. The leaf petioles and stems of Staghorn Sumac are also covered with fine hairs which the Tree of Heaven does not have.
Winged Sumac (Rhus Copallinum) leaflets are also smooth like the Tree of Heaven, but they have growths on the leaf rachis resembling wings which can help you distinguish winged sumac from the Tree of Heaven.
You Can Identify Them By Their Fruits
Sumacs can also be differentiated from the Tree of Heaven by their fruits. Sumacs produce drupes which are fleshy fruits with a hard seed in the center. Sumac drupes form large, tightly packed clusters which resemble a cone and are typically red in color when ripe.
The drupes of sumac are easily differentiated from the papery samaras of the Tree of Heaven.
5. Kentucky Coffee Tree (Gymnocladus Dioicus) Vs. Tree Of Heaven
The bark of the Kentucky Coffee Tree is rough and scaly and will easily distinguish it from the much smoother cantaloupe-like bark of the Tree of Heaven, especially in mature trees.
The fruit of the Kentucky Coffee Tree forms in pods, with 3 to 5 seeds per pod. These are easily differentiated from the samaras produced by the Tree of Heaven.
6. Yellowwood (Cladrastis Lutea) Vs. Tree Of Heaven
Mature Yellowwood can be distinguished from the Tree of Heaven simply by the smooth bark it has versus the Tree of Heaven’s bark which has more of a cantaloupe texture to it.
Yellowwood leaves are pinnately compound but typically have no more than 5 to 9 leaflets while the Tree of Heaven’s leaves rarely have fewer than 11 leaflets.
The fruit of the yellowwood is also a key characteristic since it produces long brown pods in clusters with 6 seeds per pod similar to the Kentucky coffee tree, which are much different than the samaras of tree of heaven.
7. Amur Cork Tree (Phellodendron Amurense) Vs. Tree Of Heaven
Amur cork trees are another non-native species in North America that resemble the Tree of Heaven. While it has pinnately compound leaves, the leaves are opposite to one another on the stem like ash trees.
Amur Cork Trees also have corky bark which is easily distinguished from the much smoother cantaloupe-like pattern on the bark of the Tree of Heaven.
Amur Cork Trees can also be distinguished from the Tree of Heaven by their fruits which are berries while the Tree of Heaven has samaras.
The Tree Of Heaven Has An Unpleasant Odor That Can Help Identify It
There are many identifying characteristics of the Tree of Heaven which can be used to distinguish it from other plants. One characteristic that is present year round is from the odor which has been commonly described as rotten peanuts or dirty gym socks. The flowers will emit this odor in late May through July when they are present, but it is also produced when you crush the stems or any part of the tree.
Since the sap can cause an allergic reaction in rare cases, you should not crush the stems or any part of the plant to smell them. Use the other diagnostic characters provided above to identify tree of heaven.
How To Get Rid Of The Tree Of Heaven
There are many strategies that can be used to get rid of the Tree of Heaven if you find it on your property. All of the strategies require that you monitor the area for several years after treatment in order to ensure that no further growth occurs from root suckers or seeds which remain in the soil. You will also likely need to use multiple methods together to get full control if you already have an established tree.
Remember – any time you are removing a tree or using chemicals to control a pest, there can be significant risks involved. That’s why we recommend you use a professional to avoid creating an unsafe situation. Find a local ISA-certified arborist to ensure the job is done right.
Mechanical Control
Mechanical control is a way you can get rid of the Tree of Heaven. Mechanical control is the use of barriers such as fences and the removal of a pest by mechanical means such as mowing.
Mowing is a great mechanical control method for root suckers – which will pop up from the roots of an adult tree, even after the tree is removed.
If you continue to cut back newly emerging root suckers from the roots without allowing them to get too big, you can deplete the carbohydrate reserves in the roots and ultimately eliminate the Tree of Heaven completely.
Chemical Control
Chemical control is the use of pesticides to control a pest. Chemical control is perhaps the most effective way to control mature Trees of Heaven. However, combining chemical control with the mechanical control of mowing is the most effective way to control the newly emerging Tree of Heaven on your property.
Remember, since the Tree of Heaven can grow new trees from its roots, if you cut down the tree, you will likely find more trees continuing to try and sprout up from the stump and remaining roots. You can eliminate these root suckers and stump sprouts using chemical control.
If you have a large Tree of Heaven, it is best to have a professional cut the tree down for for safety purposes. Once the main trees are removed, spray the stumps and any new trees that emerge with glyphosate or triclopyr. Here are two of our favorite products to do so.
We like Round Up Pro Concentrate since it contains the higher concentration of glyphosate recommended by the Forest Service or this ITS Supply Triclopyr 4 which is a generic brand and more cost effective.
Cultural Control
Cultural control refers to actions you can take to make the environment less suitable for the pest you are trying to control. The most effective way to culturally control the Tree of Heaven is to know how to identify it and remove it, by pulling it up as soon as you see it begin to grow.
Make sure to wear protective gloves when pulling up the Tree of Heaven since the plant can cause allergic reactions in some people. We like these Cool Job Gardening Gloves for women, since they come in smaller sizes and have a rubber coating to prevent any contact with tree of heaven sap. These men’s Cool Job Gardening Gloves also have the rubber coating and are available in larger sizes.
You should also make sure that if you have been in an area where the Tree of Heaven is growing, you don’t take any seeds back to your property with you, since the seeds can spread by getting stuck to your car tires to the hair on your pets!
Biological Control
Biological control is the use of an introduced natural enemy or predator to eliminate an unwanted pest. While there currently isn’t an approved biological control agent for the Tree of Heaven in North America, there is ongoing research that is focused on certain insects which may be able to reduce the spread of these trees.
According to the USDA, researchers are hopeful to have a biological control method available for the Tree of Heaven in the near future.
That’s A Wrap!
The Tree of Heaven has become an invasive tree species on every continent, except Antarctica, since its movement out of its native range in China and Taiwan. It can easily outcompete native plants and has little wildlife value allowing it to cause significant damage to ecosystems.
There are many trees that look like the Tree of Heaven at various stages of growth. Often the leaves are most easily confused, but with the use of this guide, you should be able to easily distinguish other trees from the Tree of Heaven by using the leaves, bark, stems, and fruits.
There are many different ways to get rid of the Tree of Heaven if you find it on your property. The most effective management strategies tend to use several of these methods together to get complete control of the Tree of Heaven.
Remember, the earlier you identify and remove the Tree of Heaven from your property, the easier it is to remove it.
References
Ding, J., Wu, Y., Zheng, H., Fu, W., Reardon, R. and Liu, M., 2006. Assessing potential biological control of the invasive plant, tree-of-heaven, Ailanthus altissima. Biocontrol science and technology, 16(6), pp.547-566.
Enescu, C.M., Houston Durrant, T. and Caudullo, G., 2016. Ailanthus altissima in Europe: distribution, habitat, usage and threats. European Atlas of Forest Tree Species. Publications Office of the European Union, Luxembourg, pp. e01ca33.
Heisey, R.M., 1990. Evidence for allelopathy by tree-of-heaven (Ailanthus altissima). Journal of Chemical Ecology, 16(6), pp.2039-2055.
Sladonja, B., Sušek, M. and Guillermic, J., 2015. Review on invasive tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima (Mill.) Swingle) conflicting values: assessment of its ecosystem services and potential biological threat. Environmental management, 56(4), pp.1009-1034.
Elm trees are a popular and common tree across North America and are favored for their ability to withstand harsh weather. If you are looking to plant some extra flora underneath your elm, you might think that any old plant would do – however, this isn’t quite the case!
Growing plants underneath your elm tree takes consideration. It’s important to know which plants will share nutrients and water with the elm tree so that all the plants will flourish. Plants like Daffodils, Japanese Ferns, and August Lilies are among those that do well underneath an elm tree.
The main thing to consider when planting plants underneath an elm tree is that you found a plant that is a low-requirement species and does not require a lot to thrive. You also don’t want any plants that are going to spread out all over the place and get in the way of your root system, or in the way of other plants.
If you’re looking to learn more about the best plants underneath your elm tree, stick around for a while – and keep on reading!
Can You Even Grow Plants Underneath an Elm Tree?
So, after reading that intro section, you may have some questions…some concerns, even. Can you even grow plants underneath an elm tree, if there are so many requirements? The answer: Of course, you can!
You may need to be a bit more conscientious when choosing which plants to share soil with your beloved elm, but you can effectively add some pops of color to the ground if you choose the right plant! Growing any sort of plant is going to take some work, regardless of how ‘easy’ it may be to maintain. You always need to consider what your plant needs – from the amounts of water and sunlight to the type of nutrients and soil.
Elm trees are popular for a reason, as they’re very easy to grow. However, they do take a bit of thought when it comes to maintaining the space that they grow in.
So, Why Grow an Elm Tree?
On that note, let’s talk about why you might want an elm tree. After all, there are so many trees out there – so why an elm?
Elm trees might need a little consideration when it comes to sharing soil, but these trees truly are hard to beat. You can be sure that they will grow easily, and without too much extra work on your part.
Elm Trees Are Cold Hardy And Grow In All Temperatures
The 20th century saw American Elms dominating the streets of both suburban and city landscapes thanks to their knack for providing shade and dealing with poor soil.
Elm Trees are a species that is incredibly cold hardy, which means that they can continue to thrive even in unprecedented, extremely low temperatures. Whereas many trees might not withstand such extremes, you have a better chance at success with your elm tree.
Elms Are Tolerable To External Conditions Like Sidewalks
Elms are also very tolerant to external conditions, which makes them great street trees. While you’ll want to be aware of sidewalks that might be impacted by the elm tree roots, this is a species that will do well to provide shade on a busy street.
Or, perhaps you’ll choose to plant an elm tree in front of your home so that you can end up with that grandiose, towering look – as the tree matures.
Check out our article on the 11 best low-maintenance shade trees for a more detailed list of what you could plant to add interest to your yard.
Elm Trees Are Long-Lasting And Durable
Speaking of maturity, elm trees are long-lasting and can grow to be around 300 years old. If that doesn’t give you an idea of their tolerance and durability, I’m not sure that anything else will!
These trees are not only durable themselves, but can help provide protection against the elements when needed. Favored by land developers and landscapers both for their ability to withstand harsh, urban conditions, these trees can also act as a windbreakers to protect homes and more open areas outside of the city.
When it comes down to it, elms are great trees and deserve to be cared for as such, and deserve some wonderful plants nearby! So, without further ado – here are the 6 best plants to grow under your elm!
6 Best Plants To Plant Under Your Elm Tree
As you might imagine, plants that do better in shade are going to do better underneath the dense canopy of an elm tree. Plants will also do better under an elm if they have similar needs to an elm.
So, let’s get to it!
1. Daffodils Will Grow Great Under Your Elm Tree
Daffodils are great for under your elm tree all thanks to their shallow roots and adaptable nature.
We know that shallow roots are ideal when paired with the extensive root system of the elm, and it doesn’t hurt that daffodils are also a fairly flexible plant.
Daffodils self-seed, so they’ll spread on their own and can make their way to the area of the ground that best suits them overall – making them low maintenance and attainable.
Some Quick Things To Consider When Planting Daffodils
Light: Daffodils do like the sun, but will be able to grow in partial shade, which is possible if they are planted near the outer edges of the elm tree’s canopy.
Soil: Daffodils do well in rich, moist soil and appreciate some extra water, especially as they are growing.
Hardiness Zone: Daffodils grow in hardiness zones 3-8, which is very fitting when we consider that elms prefer zones 3-9.
Overall, a Daffodil has many of the same needs as an elm tree, which makes it a great fit to share soil and an overall environment.
2. Virginia Bluebells Will Grow Wonderfully Under Your Elm Tree
Next up on our list, we have the Virginia Bluebell because of its affinity for growing in the shade, as well as its ability to adapt to the amount of water available, whether high or low.
Virginia Bluebells align with the needs of an elm tree because elms do tend to require more water than these flowers, so flexibility is a factor that helps these two plants coexist.
Some Quick Things To Consider When Planting Virginia Bluebells
Light: Virginia bluebells grow quite well in partial to full shade, meaning that the extensive and dense canopy of an elm tree is not a hindrance, but is actually beneficial to this flower.
Soil: Just like elms, well-drained, rich, and loamy soil is best.
Hardiness Zone: Like daffodils, Virginia bluebells are also best suited for hardiness zones 3-8. This places Virginia bluebells right in the range of hardiness that an elm requires..
3. Periwinkles Will Flourish Underneath Your Elm Tree
Periwinkle is next on our list, and is another flower that is not only compatible with elm trees, but is also a pretty addition to your yard.
Periwinkles are easy to grow and manage. Periwinkles are ideal flowers to add a pop of color under your elm, without the extra work.
Some Quick Things To Consider When Planting Periwinkles
Light: Periwinkle also prefers full shade, making it well-suited to grow underneath the canopy of an elm.
Soil: Yet again, moist, well-drained soil is ideal for periwinkle to grow and thrive.
Hardiness Zone: Periwinkles don’t have the largest hardiness zone that they fit in, as they prefer zones 7-9. However, this still fits in the range that elms grow in, so there is a chance that if you live in an area with an extreme low temperature that is a bit higher, you can plant periwinkle with confidence.
4. August Lilies Will Look Great Underneath Your Elm
August lilies are next, thanks to their flexibility, quick growth, and fragrance.
They might not add a crazy pop of color, but if you like the smell of flowers, this is the one for you!
Some Quick Things To Consider When Planting August Lilies
Light: While these flowers do well in the sun, they also grow quite well in partial to full shade, an expression of their versatility.
Soil: As long as soil is rich, and well drained, august lily is going to do well underneath your elm.
Hardiness Zone: August lilies fit best within hardiness zones 3-9, which means that they have the exact same preference as elm trees do, making them a fitting combo for your yard!
5. Lilyturf Grows Perfectly Under Your Elm
Lilyturf is often used as ground cover and has some requirements that align quite well with those of elm trees.
If you want to cover some patchy grass, or simply hope to add some vibrance to your space, this is a solid option that you won’t regret.
Some Quick Things To Consider When Planting Lilyturf
Light: Lilyturf thrives in the shade, yet another option to go right under your elm with no concern for the lack of light.
Soil: Moist soil is also the ideal for this flower, so your elm and lily turf will not need different levels of water.
Hardiness Zone: The Lilyturf prefers hardiness zones 5-10, which means that it has a good deal of overlap with the zones 3-9 preferred by elm trees.
6. Japanese Ferns Will Grow Nicely Underneath Your Elm Tree
Finally, we have the Japanese fern, which is a slow-grower but can create a dense covering over the ground in a few years’ time.
Japanese Ferns are an invasive species, so they will require a lot of maintenance, however, they will also grow thick and dense, creating a neat visual effect underneath your tree.
Some Quick Things To Consider When Planting Japanese Ferns
Light: This type of fern can tolerate full sun or full shade, and its adaptability makes it a prime candidate for underneath your elm.
Soil: Once again, moist, well-drained soil is perfect for this plant.
Hardiness Zone: The Japanese Fern is best suited to hardiness zones 5-8. While this gives a little less room for planting in certain environments that might get colder extreme low temperatures in winter, it still fits in a wide enough range that make it a fitting plant for under your elm.
Not only could you plant any single one of these types of plants underneath your elm tree, but you could also combine them to create beautiful yet functional foliage closer to ground level.
Choosing A Plant For Underneath an Elm Tree
In this article, our main goal was to inform you about the 6 best plants to plant under your elm tree. However, properly growing those plants under your tree is also an important factor to be considered.
There are many plants that will require a lot of water or nutrients from the soil and will take the water and nutrients away from your elm. Avoid hindering your tree by following some best practices, as well as choosing the best plants.
Let’s dive a little deeper and discuss some of the most important things to consider when it comes to planting underneath an elm tree.
Consider The Livelihood Of All Plants
Having a plant that can handle tough conditions like an elm is not the standard -so, when choosing a plant for underneath it, it’s best to choose plants that require similar conditions to grow and thrive as an elm.
It is more likely than not that your elm will be able to deal with most plants that are planted under it. However, thanks to the extensive root system and dense shade of the elm tree, many plants may not be able to survive underneath your elm – and considering the livelihood of all plants is important.
Make Sure That Your Elm Is Away From Other Structures
The location of your elm tree makes a difference when it comes to its viability, as well as your ability to plant other plants underneath it.
If you have an elm tree that is pretty close to a fence, another tree, a building, or any other structure, your elm may not have room to flourish.
Though these are great urban trees to provide shade and act as windbreaks, the more space the better. Additionally, if you were hoping to plant some plants underneath your elm tree, it might not be possible if you have it planted too close to another structure or tree.
Make Sure You Are Planting Your Elm In USDA Zones 3-9
Also, be sure to keep up with the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map to check that your location is fitting for whatever plants you want to place under your elm.
Elm trees do best in hardiness zones 3-9, which means that the average extreme low temperature range they can survive a winter in is about -40 to 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
However, you’ll want to check that the plants you hope to incorporate into the area below your tree have a similar level of cold hardiness, or resistance to extremely cold temperatures.
Don’t Overwhelm Your Elm
Even though Elm trees are adaptable and durable, it is important to set your tree up for success.
Part of that success will come from building conditions that allow the tree to flourish in its own environment. This is done by giving the tree the means to focus on its own growth and internal systems, as opposed to fighting for nutrients from other plants.
To do this, you want to start by doing some research. You can refer to our 6 best plants to plant under your elm tree, of course, but if there are any other species that you’re considering- always ask a specialist.
Find The Best Route For Planting The Additional Plants
Once you know that your plant choice is going to be compatible with your elm, it’s time to think about planting the plant itself, and how much room is available to plant without damaging the roots.
To figure the spacing out, you can use a trowel like this Edward Tools Garden Trowel. It’s heavy-duty, made of carbon steel, and has an ergonomic grip. This is the perfect tool because you will avoid digging through the roots while being gentle and getting the job done!
Once you’ve established both the plant type and if you will be able to dig in between any roots and the space, it’s time to plant!
Techniques For Maintaining Your Elm Tree
While it is so important to know what plants are compatible with the soil and shade of an elm tree, there are also things that you can do to help maintain both your elm and the other plants that live underneath it.
So, what are these things, exactly?
Water, Water, Water!
What is one of the best ways to offer support to your tree? Easy! Make sure it is getting enough water.
When it comes to watering, you may have concerns about providing the right amount of water, at the right frequency, and maybe even at the optimal time of day.
One way to avoid these concerns is to use an irrigation system like this WATERHOOP Portable Water Sprinkler and Irrigation System. Unlike other, more extensive irrigation systems that work best for gardens and entire yards, this system will allow you to easily water trees and other outdoor plants thanks to the durable and adjustable hose.
No matter how you choose to maintain your watering practices, this is an easy and important bit of maintenance to give your tree and plants the best chance at success.
Fertilize to Maintain Life
Another piece of the puzzle to maintaining your tree has to do with the fertilizer that it is getting.
This goes back to the reason that some plants may not do as well under an elm tree as others, because not all plants will require the same nutrients that the elm will. So, that’s why we fertilize!
Trees and other plants are the same way. It’s crucial to have the water and nutrients they need in order to flourish.
Fertilizing Your Elm Is Essential
It is the best practice to fertilize elm trees once or twice a year, and then as needed in between. Slow-release, granular fertilizers are ideal, and you’ll want to keep an eye out for an NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) ratio of 5-10-10 or 6-12-12.
A great fertilizer option is the Lilly Miller Morcrop Tomato and Vegetable Food. Don’t worry about the fact that it is designated for vegetables, as long as your NPK number is right, you’ll be on the right track.
Since that particular fertilizer has an NPK of 5-10-10, you can be sure that it will support your elm tree, and any plants underneath, in the right way.
Prune and You Won’t Face Doom
Pruning is another important way to make sure that your tree will be here to stay.
Of course, in the case of disease, damage, or infection, you’ll want to prune any branches that are impacted to stop the spread of an issue. However, did you know that you can, and often should, prune perfectly healthy trees, too?.
Pruning helps your tree put its energy toward growing taller and more evenly, as it won’t have as much outward growth to focus on, and can focus on growing from within. A healthy tree should only be pruned once every few years. Often, as branches grow longer, they grow slowly but the tree puts a lot of effort into continuing that slower growth, as opposed to growing bigger overall.
If you are interested in learning more about pruning large trees the right way, we have an article just for you!
That’s A Wrap!
Alright friends, we’ve come to the end! As you work to add plants to your space, you might need to end up planting underneath your elm tree.
Remember that there are 6 best plants to grow underneath an elm tree:
Daffodils
Virginia Bluebell
Periwinkle
August Lily
Lily Turf
Japanese Fern
These plants are all quite adaptable and don’t have many specific needs. This is important as elm trees take a lot of work on their own. Elm tree roots require a lot of moisture and nutrients from the soil, as the canopy shades much of the tree from getting sun. So, having a plant underneath your elm that can be compatible and that does not take away necessary water and nutrients is key.
As usual, we wish you luck as you continue along your personal tree journey. Thanks for letting us be a part of it.
Until next time!
References
Sander, D. H. (1971). Soil properties and Siberian elm tree growth in Nebraska windbreaks. Soil Science, 112(5), 357-363.
Thomas, P. A., & Garber, M. P. (2009). Growing ferns.
Mulch has many practical uses. It protects your plants, suppresses weeds, retains moisture, and gives any garden or landscape that polished look. Maybe you have a few spruce trees on your property, or you have started seeing spruce mulch in the stores and you wonder; is spruce good for mulch?
Spruce mulch is typically a mixture of pine and spruce bark. This mixture has the same benefits as regular hardwood mulch, but it breaks down slower and can be aromatic. If you’re looking for a cost-effective, long-lasting much that smells like fresh pine forests, then spruce mulch is for you.
You can purchase spruce mulch from large retail chains or small, locally owned landscape suppliers. If you have some spruce trees on your property, you can even make your own spruce mulch. Depending on what you need it for, spruce mulch could be perfect for your landscape.
What Exactly Is Spruce Mulch?
Spruce mulch may sound pretty self-explanatory, but often it’s a mixture of spruce and pine tree bark. Spruce and pine trees are related after all, they are both evergreens, conifers, and produce needles instead of broad leaves.
The differences between the trees are somewhat subtle. Pine trees produce clusters of usually longer needles, whereas spruce trees produce small branches covered in short needles. Spruce trees also grow straighter and produce that conical, “Christmas tree shape.”
Pine and spruce mulch is made when machines strip the bark from the tree trunks when they are being processed for lumber. Pine and spruce lumber is often used for construction. Because of its availability and good workability, spruce lumber is the number one choice of construction wood in Europe.
Check out our article about the best spruce trees, for more information on spruce!
What Makes Spruce Mulch Special?
There are many benefits to using spruce mulch. As we said, spruce mulch is usually mixed with pine bark, but these nuggets make a great, long-lasting mulch. Even on its own, spruce mulch is a great mulch, here are the reasons why.
Spruce Mulch Lasts Longer
Most hardwood mulches are shredded into small pieces. Sometimes the mulch is even double or triple ground, making the pieces even smaller. Because of this, it breaks down and decomposes rather quickly.
Spruce mulch is mostly nuggets of bark, which are bigger than the ground up hardwood. The bigger pieces don’t have as much surface area exposed to the elements, and so it takes longer for them to decompose.
The bark is also naturally resistant to water and decomposition. Tree bark is much like our skin, it surrounds the living tissue of trees and protects the inside of the tree from water, air, insects, and illness. This natural resistance also keeps tree bark mulch from breaking down quickly.
Spruce Mulch Doesn’t Increase Soil Acidity
This is a myth that has been circulated for many years. Still many people swear that it’s true, but evergreen mulch does not increase the acidity of the soil. Pine needles won’t increase the acidity of the soil, and neither does pine or spruce mulch.
Pine needles are acidic, but they do not add that acidity to the soil. Pine trees grow in acidic soils, but don’t change the soil to suit their needs. The acidity in the needles is broken down by bacteria before it has a chance to alter the pH.
The reason plants have a hard time growing underneath pine trees is because of the thick, shallow roots, too much shade, and because the canopy is so thick, not much water can get through.
Trying to change the acidity of the soil by adding evergreen needles or mulch is like trying to change the color of a lake by pouring a few vials of food coloring.
Spruce Mulch Is Aromatic
If you enjoy the smell of fresh pine wood or the scents that perfume the air after cutting one down, you’ll probably enjoy the scent of spruce mulch. The scent comes from the oils and sap in the trees and it’s more aromatic the fresher it is.
The scent is similar to cedar shavings, but it’s not quite as strong and doesn’t have the “bite” that cedar wood does.
Spruce Mulch Has All The Benefits Of Hardwood Mulch
A thick bed of hardwood mulch offers benefits such as:
Weed prevention—weeds have a hard time penetrating through a layer of mulch. And when they actually do, it’s much easier to pull them out of mulch, than hard, dry, compacted soil. Mulch also prevents most weed seeds from germinating so you have fewer weeds overall.
Moisture retention—You won’t have to water your flowers or garden plants when you have a bed of mulch. It helps to keep moisture in the ground and prevents excess evaporation.
Ground and root protection—Mulch helps to keep the soil from getting too hot in the summer, and protects the roots from freezing during the winter. It’s like having a blanket when the weather gets cold and having a cooling fan during the heat of the summer.
Mulch adds organic material—Even though spruce mulch breaks down slower than typical mulch, it still decomposes. When mulch begins to decompose, it provides the plant’s roots with beneficial nutrients, which help to enrich the soil.
Breaks up clay—If you live in the south, you know all about the red clay soil and how hard it can be to grow certain plants in this dense dirt. You can add soil amendments to loosen it up, or just add some mulch. Over time, the mulch turns into rich soil that helps to alter the thick clay.
Spruce mulch does all of the above. So if you’re looking for a cheaper alternative or a longer-lasting organic mulch, you can’t go wrong with spruce mulch.
Can You Use Spruce Mulch In Your Vegetable Garden?
You certainly can. Mulch in your vegetable garden offers the same benefits as listed above, and can lead to stronger plants, soil enrichment, and bigger yields.
The only caveat here is to be careful using wood mulch under and around tomato plants. The wood chips can be sharp and damage the tender tomato stems. The best mulch for tomato plants is usually straw, shredded leaves, and grass clippings.
Can You Make Your Own Spruce Mulch?
If you are looking at the spruce trees on your property and are wondering if you can use them to make your own mulch, know that you certainly can. Depending on the equipment you have, or have access to, you can make your own mulch.
It can take some time and some methods are labor intensive, but it can certainly be done. If you are planning on cutting your spruce trees down, or they have been damaged by a storm, converting them to mulch is a viable option.
Let’s get into it and learn how to make your own spruce (and more) mulch.
Rent A Tree Chipper And Make Mulch For Yourself
Unless you have a tree cutting business, you probably don’t own a large wood chipper. For the 99% of us who don’t, you can rent them for a decent price. They generally rent for about $100 a day, depending on the size.
Chippers are usually sized by the diameter of the wood they can grind up. The smaller chippers usually can handle branches around 2 to 3 inches in diameter. These machines can fit in the back of a pickup truck or into a large SUV.
Larger machines (which I recommend if you have access to a trailer hitch) can chip larger-diameter branches. These can be up to 6 to 8 inches in diameter. If you need a larger chipper, you’ll have to haul an industrial-sized wood chipper.
Before renting a chipper, we recommend always contacting a professional before starting.
Cheaper Isn’t Necessarily Better
I recently owned a piece of property that had been neglected for years. It had so much undergrowth and wild, unkempt trees that desperately needed heavy pruning. To save some money I trimmed them myself, but then ended up with a huge pile of limbs and brush.
To get rid of the expanding brush pile and create some free mulch, I decided to rent a wood chipper. I decided to go with the 2-inch chipper because most of the wood was smaller limbs and saplings that needed culling.
It made a very large pile of beneficial mulch that would have cost me more than what it cost to rent the chipper. The problem was, I was brutally sore for two days after.
The Chipper Beat Me Up!
I think the blades were dull. I couldn’t tell because I have never used a chipper before, but if I threw the branch into the chipper and let it go, it could clog the machine up. Then I’d have to spend time removing the jam.
I solved this problem—probably unwisely—by holding tight to the branches to keep them from being dragged into the blades and clogging them up like rope around a mower. After a whole day of fighting with the chipper, I was in pain for days after.
Purchase Your Own Chipper For Small Branches
Again, maybe the machine I rented wasn’t the best and needed some maintenance. I was too hard headed to call the rental center to find out. But if you want to do it yourself you will probably have better luck with your own electric chipper.
It can shred lawn waste up to 1.7 inches in diameter and reduce the size of your brush pile. To handle all the spindly branches that are too small to burn, chip them into mulch. I’m sure this one won’t make you feel like you’re trying to wrestle the Kraken.
Go Bigger If You Can
If I had it to do over again, I would have gone with a bigger machine. Even though none of the branches were over 2 inches in diameter, the smaller machine had trouble with them.
As far as my personal experience, if you can afford, or are able to tow a larger chipper, go ahead and get it to save your back, shoulders, and arms, and save yourself a lot of frustration.
How To Make Spruce Mulch Without A Chipper
You can make your own wood mulch without a chipper, but it’s a tedious and very labor-intensive process. You will need a chainsaw, a sharp axe, and a hatchet.
The first step is to cut the spruce tree down. If you have never cut a tree before, or if it’s close to any buildings or structures, call a professional to cut it down for you.
Now that the tree is down, cut the branches off the main trunk, and then cut the branches and trunk into smaller sections. Cutting them to about 24 inches in length will be sufficient.
Cut Several Grooves Through The Logs
When using your chainsaw, you want to make sure the blade is sharp and doesn’t have a lot of slack.
Now, take the sections of logs, and cut strips into the logs along the grain. The thicker the logs, the better for this process.
Tips For Cutting The Groove
You’re not trying to cut all the way through, what you are doing is cutting about halfway to three-quarters of the way through the log. After the first cut along the grain, you’ll probably notice a lot of thin wood shreds. This is part of the mulch you are looking for.
These shreds of wood tend to clog up the chain-drive gear, so you’ll have to shut off the saw and clean out the wood tendrils so it doesn’t cause the saw to overheat. Depending on the thickness of the log, you may have to clean it out after each cut, or every other cut.
Continue to cut several grooves through the logs and soon you’ll have a large pile of thin, shredded spruce mulch. Try to cut a deep groove about every inch or so. This way you get more out of each log.
Now It’s Time To Swing The Axe
Once the logs are grooved and you have a large pile of shredded spruce mulch, you can make your own wood chips with a hatchet or axe. Just take the axe of your choice and start chipping away at the logs. With the deep cuts in the logs, when you chop at them with your axe, you’ll get small wood chips you can add to your shredded mulch so it lasts longer.
This LEXIVON V28 Chopping Axe is a great, sharp, ergonomic axe that’s made for chopping up chunks of wood. You’ll have wood shavings and your own mulch in no time.
Use the long chopping axe along with the WilFiks Chopping Axe, which comes highly rated. With these two tools, you can turn those spruce trees into mulch.
You can still use an axe to chop up mulch from the tree. Just start chopping on the tree and let the wood chips fly. As I said, these methods are extremely labor intensive, but if you’ve been looking for that lumberjack body, this is certainly the way to get it.
Considering a truckload of mulch can cost $300 to $500, maybe cutting mulch yourself isn’t such a bad idea. Especially if you end up getting a ripped body as a result, just saying.
Is Fresh Wood Mulch Bad For My Garden?
There is concern among many gardening enthusiasts that fresh wood chips, sawdust, and other woody mulch products—if they haven’t been aged appropriately—will tie up nitrogen from the soil.
Even if fresh wood chips were nitrogen-robbing thieves, they couldn’t remove enough of the nutrient to affect trees and shrubs that are already established. Plants that have established root systems could still get nitrogen from other areas of the soil. Remember, a tree’s roots can extend up to three times the size of the canopy.
The little nitrogen that is taken from the wood chips isn’t going to affect the tree. So if you put a two-foot ring of mulch around the tree, even if all the nitrogen was eliminated from under the mulch, it won’t harm the tree at all.
Leave The Wood Chips To Age
If you are still concerned about nitrogen being tied up for months, then just leave the fresh chips to age for 6 months to a year. After that time the fresh wood chips will have started the decomposition process, and started adding nitrogen to the soil.
Woody mulch actually increases nitrogen in the soil. Even freshly cut wood chips don’t absorb or remove nitrogen from the soil. If you are concerned about nitrogen levels, apply a layer of compost to the soil before laying the mulch.
By the time the compost is used up, the wood chips will start to biodegrade and continue to release nitrogen into the soil.
Use Mature Mulch For New Plants
If you are planting new bulbs, seeds, or just starting your garden, you may not want to use fresh cut mulch. “Aha!” you say, “it does affect the plants if it’s not aged.” There don’t appear to be many studies that support this theory.
The reason for using aged mulch with new plants is that they need more nutrients to get established. Their roots are trying to grow, and at the same time, new plants are expending a lot of energy in growing new leaves, branches, and stems.
Adding a mulch that decomposes quickly, or an aged compost is best to get these new plants started. Since fresh-cut mulch will take a long time to start decomposing, it may not be the best alternative for non-established plants.
Mulch won’t take the place of fertilizer, though. Check out our article on spruce tree fertilizers for more info on that!
What To Do With Leftover Mulch
If you have a lot of mulch left over and don’t have any more beds that need it you can store it until next year. Just store the leftover mulch in a dry area, outside and away from any structures.
It’s best to bag it up in thick, black plastic bags, but make sure the bags have several small holes in them so it’s able to breathe. You can also leave it in a pile if it’s too much to bag up, just be sure to “turn” it occasionally. Just like compost, the mulch will need to be stirred to prevent mold and let the mulch deep inside get sunlight and air.
Weed Before Applying Mulch
For mulch to be an effective weed barrier, you should get rid of existing weeds first. Getting rid of the weeds first assures you have fewer that will need to be pulled out later. After the mulch is applied, it makes it harder for seeds to germinate. It can still happen but at a much-reduced rate.
To get rid of the weeds, first, you can use a garden hoe and chop them out before adding a thick layer of mulch. You can also go the old-fashioned route and pull them straight out.
Another way to get rid of weeds is to pour boiling water on them. Be sure you don’t have any plants nearby that could be harmed because if the hot water hits the roots, it could damage them or prove fatal for the plant.
Why Mulch Might Attract Insects
Fresh and decomposed mulch does attract insects. There are a lot of bugs that are attracted to moisture such as pill bugs, crickets, earwigs, ants, spiders, millipedes, and centipedes.
Insects will come for the moisture, and places to hide, and then the predators will follow. I have seen centipedes, spiders, beetles, and others in mulch before, but I have yet to find termites in any beds of mulch. I’m not an expert on termites, I’m just reporting my findings.
If bugs and termites are prevalent in your area, or you just don’t want insects getting close to your house because of mulch, there are options. Applying a one to two foot barrier of inorganic mulch such as river rocks, or shredded tires around your house can reduce the number of insects that get into your house.
Let’s Wrap It Up!
Spruce mulch is just as good, if not better than other more expensive hardwood mulches. It can last longer, it’s usually less expensive and it provides the same benefits as more expensive mulch.
You can even make your own mulch by renting or buying a wood chipper, or cutting it up yourself. Just use your chainsaw, hatchet, and trusty chopping axe if you have the energy and physical stamina.
Go ahead and spruce up your landscape with some new mulch—sorry, I was holding that in this whole time and couldn’t resist.
References
Arentoft, B. W., et al. “A new method to evaluate the weed‐suppressing effect of mulches: a comparison between spruce bark and cocoa husk mulches.” Weed Research 53.3 (2013): 169-175.
Fang, Shengzuo, Baodong Xie, and Jiujun Liu. “Soil nutrient availability, poplar growth and biomass production on degraded agricultural soil under fresh grass mulch.” Forest Ecology and Management 255.5-6 (2008): 1802-1809.
Downer, Jim. “Mulch effects on trees.” Western Arborist 35 (2009): 30-34.
Ramakrishna, A., et al. “Effect of mulch on soil temperature, moisture, weed infestation and yield of groundnut in northern Vietnam.” Field crops research 95.2-3 (2006): 115-125.
Ash trees are a favorite landscape staple. But if you’ve just moved into a home with one, or it’s your first season owning one, there’s something you’re sure to notice—the mess! Unfortunately, this is just part of dealing with an ash tree.
Why are ash trees so messy? Ash trees disperse leaves and seeds seasonally. Not only that, but they also tend to shed bark and branches more than other trees. You can minimize your clean-up time with seed prevention treatments, sterilization, and regular pruning.
However, those are only some things that make an ash tree messy. In this guide, we’ll look deeper into why these trees make such a mess and what you can do about it!
Leaves, Seeds, And More Make Ash Trees So Messy
Before we get into what you can do about the mess, it’s important to take a look at the why behind it. You’re certainly used to the typical leafy clutter in the autumn that so many trees, like oaks and maples, leave on the ground.
Ash trees are deciduous, meaning they lose their leaves in cold weather.
Once their leaves drop, they go into a kind of dormancy to preserve their energy. When spring returns, deciduous trees start growing back their leaves and ramp up for new growth. Like many other deciduous trees, they also drop seeds in late summer and throughout autumn.
This is just the start of the mess from ash trees, however.
Ash Trees Lose Their Leaves In The Autumn
As we just reviewed, ash trees are deciduous and lose their leaves in autumn and winter. Although they have a lot of leaves, most people are used to raking and leaf blowing—a seasonal chore for every tree owner!
With that in mind, leaves are the most obvious (and the most expected) source of mess from an ash tree. Of course, this can be said for most trees that lose their leaves when the seasons change.
While they may not have the iconic look of the maple tree’s ‘helicopter’ seeds, ash trees do drop seeds in autumn. These usually drop to ground around the same time that the leaves have turned and the first of the leaves are beginning to fall.
Their seeds also have wings, which is important when you’re looking at the mess they make.
Because ash trees have samaras (the term for winged seeds), the seeds don’t just fall directly under the tree. Instead they spread throughout your yard and everywhere the wind takes them.
These seeds are also lighter than leaves, which means that in addition to their winged form, their weight makes it easy for them to travel quite a distance.
An Ash Trees Brittle Bark Can Make A Big Mess
Ash trees have bark, stems, and branches that are often more delicate than many other trees. That’s why you might see bark littering the ground under your tree.
Bits of bark isn’t the only side effect of ash trees’ brittle wood; they also have broken branches and twigs that frequently fall.
Broken branches can happen at any time throughout the year. However, you may notice them more when the weather turns cold, and the wood becomes less pliable.
Because they’re delicate, they’re more likely to encounter natural damage. This is one factor contributing to the mess that you may be able to mitigate, and we’ll cover that in more depth later.
Of course, if you’re familiar with your ash tree (especially if it’s established and you’ve had it for quite a while), you know that litter from falling bark probably isn’t the most significant burden you’ll encounter. Nonetheless, you can still take care of brittle bark and limbs to reduce your overall maintenance in your yard clean-up.
Ash Trees Produce A Lot of Pollen
Although pollen doesn’t necessarily contribute to the mess on your lawn, it is a mess you might notice on everything in and around your yard. This side effect of owning an ash tree becomes even more noticeable if you have allergies!
Male ash trees are the main culprits of this excessive pollen production, so if you can’t stop sneezing in the springtime and there’s an ash tree in your yard, that might be the cause.
Regulating pollen from male ash trees can be challenging, and pollen can be nearly impossible to eradicate entirely, as seen in this study from the University of Minnesota.
What To Do About The Mess From Ash Trees
Now that you know the cause, you might wonder how to take care of the mess. Fortunately, you can do plenty of things to clean up the mess. But, what about preventing the mess ash trees make in the first place?
Unfortunately, turning a natural tree into a mess-free plastic model is impossible. However, you can take some maintenance measures to reduce the mess when it does come—and it will!
Keep Ash Leaves Raked Up
Leaves are frustrating. By the time you finish one pass, a thousand more leaves have fallen. Even worse, there’s no way to stop it because you can’t control the life cycle of a tree.
That said, there may be some ways to make the job easier!
The Right Lawn Tools Can Make The Job Easier
When you have the right lawn tools, you’ll spend much less time dealing with leaves. Larger, no-clog rakes are excellent because they do more work in less time. Work smarter, not harder!
Also, leaf blowers, vacuums, and mulchers are fantastic ways to get the job done faster!
Are you in need of a boss rake? Check out this Tabor Tools Adjustable Metal Rake. With up to 63 inches of reach and an adjustable head, raking won’t even feel like a chore!
Ways To Dispose Of Ash Leaves Once You’ve Raked Them
Now, when it comes to the leaves you gather, you have a few options. The first is gathering the leaves and letting your local disposal service pick them up.
The second option is getting the leaves together and burning them. However, please check your local regulations to ensure you’re allowed and follow all the mandated procedures.
The third, and most helpful option, is one that you may not have considered: turning your leaves into mulch or compost to enrich your garden.
You can create this mulch yourself, although it can be a laborious task. It’s a good idea to get a mulcher, like this WORX Electric Leaf Mulcher, which will do all the work for you.
Landscaping and Mowing Can Help With Ash Seeds
In addition to leaves, seeds can be a massive pain. If you take a lot of pride in your lawn, the last thing you want is seeds littered around, causing saplings to grow.
You can deal with dropped seeds in several ways. The most natural way to deal with them (although you probably won’t like it) involves sweeping and raking them up.
But there are other options:
Plant male ash trees. Because male ash trees don’t produce seeds, you’ll never have to worry about them. Just keep in mind that male trees are more apt to irritate allergies due to excessive pollen.
Keep nearby gardens well mulched to prevent seedlings from growing. If seeds fall onto a bed of heavy mulch, there’s less chance they will root. If they do, simply pulling them up should help—but it can be a pain!
Mow your lawn regularly. Regular mowing helps mulch fallen seeds. The damaged pods won’t be able to root and will decompose. Additionally, attaching a mower bag like this Leaf Collector Bag for Riding Lawn Mowers will help you scoop up fallen seeds.
Cut down or relocate the tree. We know this might seem extreme, but if the seeds drive you crazy, it might be your only option!
Hydration And Pruning Can Help Prevent Broken Branches
If you’re looking at the litter around your ash tree, you’re probably seeing plenty of bark chips, twigs, and even broken branches.
Reduce this mess by ensuring your ash tree is well-hydrated and getting the correct nutrients. You can do this by fertilizing it frequently and using the right formula.
If you’re not sure how often you should be watering, we have an article that explains exactly how much to water your ash tree.
Like many other species, ash trees need plenty of nitrogen. Nitrogen is critical in keeping the leaves healthy, allowing optimal photosynthesis—which we know is how trees make food to fuel growth and replace old cells.
Pruning is another crucial step in preventing ash trees from making a mess with their broken branches. Pruning will help reduce mess, and it’s also good for the tree’s health.
First, it keeps branches from rubbing against one another, which can eventually cause breakage. Next, taking care of problematic limbs now prevents more significant health problems in the future. And finally, pruning your tree helps air circulate through its canopy, which helps prevent mold and fungal issues.
Is There Anything You Can Do To Reduce Pollen In Ash Trees?
The last type of mess from ash trees is pollen. If you’re an allergy sufferer, you might not see the pollen, but you certainly feel it.
It’s important to remember that male ash trees are the main culprits in producing pollen.
Female ash trees do not release pollen. It’s the flowers from male ash trees that produce it. So, if you haven’t planted a tree yet, and you’re set on having an ash tree, planting a female tree will prevent allergy issues.
Just remember, female trees are primarily responsible for seed pods.
Another thing you should know: while some ash trees are either male or female, it’s not uncommon to see hermaphrodite ash trees. In fact, some ash trees even go through a hermaphrodite phase, with some staying in that state.
There are products on the market that claim to sterilize trees and keep them from growing fruit in an attempt to procreate. However, we don’t recommend doing this yourself. Instead, please consult a trained specialist with significant knowledge about this subject.
How To Care For Your Ash Tree
Ash trees aren’t the most difficult to care for, but they still need regular care and maintenance to remain healthy. Keep in mind that different species may require additional care. That said, you can use the general guideline below for most ash trees.
Ash trees do well in most types of soil as long as the soil drains well while also retaining some moisture.
Established trees are more drought tolerant, although they prefer somewhat damp soil. Ash trees also thrive in areas where they can get full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight throughout the day. Ash trees can grow in partial sun, although they will grow slowly and may not reach their maximum height.
This type of tree also needs ample room to grow and to allow its root systems to spread out. Aside from not planting an ash tree too close to other trees, you should also take care to grow them away from homes, walls, and other structures.
As far as trees go, ash trees can survive quite well without extra fertilizer. That said, just because it can survive doesn’t mean you should ignore fertilizing altogether.
For the best health, fertilize your ash tree at least once a year. Always check the instructions on the fertilizer you buy, as some need to be diluted. Likewise, some formulas are designed for annual use, while others need to be used twice a year or more.
How Big Do Ash Trees Get?
Ash trees can get reasonably big upon reaching maturity. In fact, most species reach heights between 60 and 120 feet tall.
If you want to have a towering ash tree, you will need to provide it with optimal conditions to allow it to do so.
How quickly do ash trees grow, you may wonder. Well, ash trees aren’t the fastest growers, but they’re certainly not the slowest either. They’re considered to have a medium growth speed. You can expect your ash tree to add between one and two feet to its height yearly (until it’s fully grown).
If you want to know exactly how long it takes for an ash tree to grown, check out our ash tree timeline!
Why Keep An Ash Tree?
With all the mess they make, you might wonder why people plant ash trees in the first place.
Let’s find out!
They Add Visual Appeal To Your Lawn And Garden
They’re beautiful, add height to a landscape, and make excellent shade trees.
Between their bright green leaves, puffy white flowers, and lazy seed pods, ash trees are unique and beautiful. Moreover, because they grow in height and width, they can add height to a landscape and make excellent shade trees.
Ash Trees Are Beneficial To The Ecosystem Around Them
For example, if you live near a body of water (whether it’s a lake, river, or pond), ash trees can help maintain your shoreline.
A bare shoreline naturally deteriorates and gradually slips into the water surrounding it. The plants that grow near the water typically stabilize the land and prevent it from eroding. Ash trees have strong roots that seek out water, and as a result, they thread through the soil to get closer to the water source. Ultimately, this fortifies the ground around them.
Interestingly, ash trees are used in many alpine areas to prevent natural disasters (like landslides). It’s also becoming more commonplace in countries such as Switzerland according to science journal, Catena.
Local Wildlife Will Love Your Ash Trees
Ash trees can provide shelter to animals who might otherwise struggle to find a suitable habitat.Gardeners will be happy to know that many of the animal’s these trees attract prey on common garden pests.
For example, tadpoles often munch on ash leaves before growing into frogs that prey on pests like mosquitos and crop-eating insects.
So if you’re sick of having your hard-grown plants eaten by pests, a water-side ash tree might be your solution.
Protect Endangered Ash Trees
Another thing you should know is that many of the main ash tree species are endangered. By planting and maintaining them, you’re helping preserve biodiversity.
Unfortunately, Emerald Ash Borers are a non-native, invasive, and devastating pest that has decimated large populations of these helpful trees. Because of that, many species are considered critically endangered.
If you can use our guide to manage the mess of an ash tree while still keeping your tree, you’re doing yourself and the ecosystem a favor.
Key Points
For those that want a quick summary of how to prevent the mess from ash trees, consider this list:
Keep your tree well hydrated to avoid excess bark shedding and broken branches
Prune branches before they fail to keep your tree healthy (and your yard clean)
Regular fertilization can prevent health issues that lead to extra mess
Consider using a product to sterilize your trees to reduce dropping seeds
Sterilization can also help reduce pollen production for allergy sufferers
Always consult a professional or arborist if you’re unsure which process or products to use
Conclusion
As we wrap up this guide, let’s examine the main things we’ve learned. Yes, ash trees are naturally messy. However, you can take measures to mitigate many of those issues, including seed prevention treatments, sterilization, planting female trees, and regular (as well as pre-emptive) pruning.
Something important to remember is that trees, no matter what species, are an investment—even if the central part of the investment is your time. Once you take steps to prevent the mess from your ash tree, you’ll notice a reduction in the time you spend on yard cleanup.
Don’t let a temporary mess prevent you from enjoying these amazing trees. Remember, if you’re unsure what to do, an arborist will help you properly treat your trees. An ash tree can make your yard more comfortable and help balance out the ecosystem surrounding it.
Hitz, O. M., Gärtner, H., Heinrich, I., & Monbaron, M. (2008). Application of ash (Fraxinus excelsior L.) roots to determine erosion rates in mountain torrents. Catena, 72(2), 248-258.
Niederberger, V., Purohit, A., Oster, J. P., Spitzauer, S., Valenta, R., & Pauli, G. (2002). The allergen profile of ash (Fraxinus excelsior) pollen: cross‐reactivity with allergens from various plant species. Clinical & Experimental Allergy, 32(6), 933-941.
Sawers, B. (2013). Regulating pollen. Minn. L. Rev. Headnotes, 98, 96.
Stephens, J. P., Berven, K. A., & Tiegs, S. D. (2013). Anthropogenic changes to leaf litter input affect the fitness of a larval amphibian. Freshwater Biology, 58(8), 1631-1646.
Maple trees are some of the most popular trees, not only because of their storied beautiful fall foliage but also because they grow quickly in most varieties and they are fairly easy to care for. But not all maple trees can be treated the same. Some are so different, in fact, that you might not even recognize that they are all actually types of maple trees.
Japanese maple trees differ from red maple trees mainly in their size. They also differ in the rate of their growth, the color of their leaves, and their ideal growing environment. Red maple trees and Japanese maple trees generally serve different purposes in a yard or garden.
Both types of maple trees are beautiful year-round, especially in the fall when their leaves are spectacular colors. And both types of maple trees can provide some useful elements to your yard, like shade in varying amounts or just general beauty for your garden. But there are some important differences that can affect not only what type of maple tree you plant, but also how you plant, care for, and place that maple tree.
Read on for all the info you need to tell these two beautiful species of maple apart and decide whether you need one or both of these varieties in your yard!
Are All Maple Trees The Same?
There are many different varieties of maple trees, all of which have some version of the Latin name acer.
Maple trees are set apart from other groups of trees by a few defining characteristics:
Maple trees have distinctive leaves.
Maple trees have distinctive flowers.
Maple trees have samaras, which are helicopter-like seeds that spin down from the trees.
Although today we are focusing on two amazing maple tree variations, there are a bunch more variations that you should consider if these don’t meet your needs! Head on over to our article about the best maple tree variations to plant, to learn more information.
They Have Iconic Leaves
Maple leaves are probably the most recognizable characteristics of maple trees of all varieties and are probably the easiest way to identify whether or not a tree is a maple.
The leaves of the maple tree, no matter the variety, are shaped with lobes; there can be a varying number of them, but the result is an iconic leaf with pointed ends on each lobe and all lobes of the same size.
Maple leaves in most varieties are green through the spring and summer but turn yellow, orange, or red in the fall.
A Maple Tree’s Fruits And Flowers
The flowers of maple trees are very small, but their shape –a bud that looks almost like a honeysuckle– is also a distinctive quality.
Lastly, maple trees produce samaras instead of acorns or exposed seeds. Samaras are like little wings that spin down from the maple trees with the seeds of the maple trees hidden inside.
Once you are able to recognize some of the key elements of maple trees, you might be able to more easily see the similarities between two trees that, at first glance, seem very different: the Japanese maple tree and the red maple tree.
Japanese Maple Trees
The Japanese maple is very popular in Japan, but it also enjoys a great deal of popularity in the United States.
Japanese maple trees originated in Japan, as their name indicates, but are also native to China, Korea, and the southeastern region of Russia.
But these trees have been used in gardens in the United States for a long time, and they grow very well in most U.S. climates.
Japanese maple trees are often used as decorative trees, and they are frequently found in gardens or as accent features to larger yards. They can be grown in many climates, and they can endure a variety of types of sunlight exposure. They can even be grown indoors.
There Are So Many Varieties Of Japanese Maple Trees
Japanese maple trees come in many different varieties, with some boasting green leaves most of the year that turns purple and red in the fall, or some that have purple and red leaves in the spring that turn green in summer then orange and red in the fall.
The colors throughout the year vary a good bit depending on the variety of Japanese maple, but almost all Japanese maple trees have something to offer by way of interesting colors to adorn your garden or yard.
Red Maple Trees
The red maple is one of the most common and popular varieties of maple trees.
It grows naturally in forests all over the northeastern United States and has been planted in yards and gardens all over the country.
Red maple trees are very plentiful in the northeast part of the country, where huge numbers of them can be grouped together, creating a spectacular sight in the fall that many people travel long distances to see.
Red maple trees are known for, as the name indicates, the distinctive, bright red color their leaves take during the autumn season.
Different varieties of red maple have been developed specifically for their beautiful fall colors. For example, the Autumn Blaze maple tree is, as its name indicates, a particularly bright tree in the fall, with leaves that turn brilliant orange or bright red.
But They Don’t Get The Name Red From Only Their Leaves
Red maples didn’t get their name from just the color of their autumn foliage.
Red maple trees have many red components, from their red twigs in winter to their red flowers in springtime.
They also have red buds and even some red components in the summer, such as the petiole (that’s the part of the tree that holds onto the leaves until they are ready to fall in autumn)!
Red Maple Trees Have Many Perks To Planting
Red maple trees make great shade trees, as they grow a lot of leaves in their tall canopies, providing a lot of shade under their branches throughout all seasons except winter.
Red maple trees are also very hardy trees, able to withstand variations in water, temperature, and sunlight.
They can survive very cold winters full of ice and snow, and they can live through heat and drought.
It is best, though, not to push the limits of your maple tree; in hot or dry weather, make sure to give even the red maple some extra water.
Maple trees actually need a lot of water, and if you decide to plant a red or Japanese maple, you should head on over to our article about why maple trees need so much water, to make sure you give your tree the best chance of survival!
1. Japanese Maples Trees Are Smaller Than Red Maple Trees
Japanese maple trees grow to a height of anywhere between six feet and 25 feet tall.
This is significantly smaller than most varieties of standard red maple which can grow to be as tall as 60 feet.
If you want a large shade tree to take the prominent spot in your front yard, a red maple might be ideal.You can plant just one tree and achieve a huge focal point that provides a ton of shade, plus the tree grows quickly, meaning it gets big fast.
Japanese Maples Are The Perfect Size For Gardens
Japanese maples, however, are very well suited to be grown in groups or placed in gardens where a tree with a smaller profile is best.
They work well near a bench, near other trees, next to a fence, or in a garden that has limited space.
If you live in a townhouse or condo, for example, your small back garden might be just right for a Japanese maple, which can fill the space and make it feel like your own little forest.
Red Maples Are Better For Shade Because They Grow Large
If you are looking to create a big statement in your yard, provide a great amount of shade, or just grow a big tree because you like maple trees, red maple is your better choice.
Red maple trees have huge, leafy canopies, perfect for providing shade to a large area. T
Their large size means that you can plant a single tree to provide the same amount of colorful plant life and visual interest as you could achieve with several smaller trees.
Of course, if the idea of several smaller plants or trees appeals to you, the Japanese maple will fit the bill best. It all depends on whether you want to plant multiple trees or just one, and on how much space you have in your yard or garden.
2. Japanese Maple Trees Can Be Grown In Containers
One interesting focal feature you can introduce to a yard or garden is a tree grown in a container.
Japanese maples can also make great additions to porches, decks, or the sides of walkways and driveways. Knowing what types of trees can live in containers, though, can be a little tricky.
The Japanese maple is a great contender for a container tree. Some varieties of Japanese maple only grow to be several feet tall, so the trees stay small enough to live their mature lives in containers, as opposed to larger trees like the red maple which would need to be transferred.
Perks Of Growing In A Container
Growing a Japanese maple tree in a container is as simple as choosing a container large enough to accommodate the variety of trees you have purchased and then making sure you water it adequately and place it in the right amount of sunlight.
One bonus to putting your Japanese maple in a container is that you will be able to easily move it, meaning that if you need to adjust the tree’s sunlight or humidity, you can do so with ease.
You will also be able to move the Japanese maple indoors in the winter months, helping it stay healthier, especially in its early years when the young tree is most vulnerable to things like frost, ice, and snow.
Red Maples Have To Be Moved From Containers
You can start a young red maple sapling in a container, but you probably have two years at most before you will need to move it into the ground.
Red maples grow very large very quickly, so if you do not move the tree in time, the lack of space for its root ball will probably cause the tree’s demise.
3. Japanese Maple Trees Grow More Slowly Than Red Maple Trees
Red maple trees grow quite quickly. Red maple trees generally grow a foot or two every year.
This is not the case with Japanese maple trees, which are notoriously slow growers; some Japanese maple trees grow less than one foot per year.
It can take a full decade before Japanese maple trees are just 15 feet tall.
While most of the time it might seem like you want trees to grow as quickly as possible, that is not necessarily the case with ornamental trees meant to provide color or a little shade to a garden or small yard.
If you’re looking to create some shade fast, we have a helpful chart of the 8 fastest growing maple trees just for you!
4. They Require Different Amounts Of Sun
Most varieties of maple trees do well in full sun, as long as they are not being grown in a very hot, dry climate that can scorch their leaves.
In their native environment, like the northeastern United States, red maple trees prefer plentiful sunlight. You just have to consider the best fit for your particular location.
Choosing A Spot For A Japanese Maple
Japanese maple trees, however, grow best in partial shade or in complete shade in the afternoon. This means that you need to consider carefully the location of your tree before you plant it.
To achieve partial shade, first, observe the area of your yard or garden where you want to plant your Japanese maple tree. You’ll need to see how much sunlight the spot gets and at what times of the day.
Usually, plants and trees that prefer some shade are able to tolerate morning sunlight better than afternoon sunlight, which coincides with hotter temperatures and can be more scorching and damaging to delicate plants.
You can choose a sunny spot that is shaded in the afternoon, or you can choose a spot that gets indirect sunlight throughout the day.
The shady afternoon spot will probably be the result of your tree being planted near another tree, plant, or structure like your house, garage, or shed, where indirect light will probably occur if your tree is planted close enough to a larger tree (like a red maple, for example) that can shade it throughout all or most times of the day.
Choosing A Spot For A Red Maple
To plant your red maple tree in direct sunlight, observation is also key.
Red maple trees can tolerate some shade, so you don’t need full sun all day long, but you can be more relaxed in choosing a spot for a red maple tree, as it is not as picky about the afternoon sun.
An Exception To The Rule
One exception to these sunlight guidelines is if you live in a very hot, dry climate with a great deal of sunshine and very little clouds or rain.
In these cases, your tree can get scorched, even with just a few hours of sunlight.
There are two important mitigating methods here to follow:
Make sure your maple tree, no matter what variety, is getting plenty of water. Trees in this environment will need much more water than a maple would need in another climate, so pay careful attention and make sure you are watering your tree regularly.
You can choose a shadier spot than the general recommendation. Try placing your Japanese maple tree in a spot that is shady more often than it is sunny. The indirect sunlight might be enough to help the tree grow without scorching its leaves.
All in all, maple trees in most climates will do well with varying amounts of sunlight, but the general difference is that Japanese maple trees need more shade while red maple trees need more sun.
5. Japanese Maple Trees And Red Maple Trees Serve Different Purposes
You might have multiple reasons for your interest in planting a maple tree, so there is likely to be some overlap on your list of pros to both Japanese maple trees and red maple trees.
Both types of trees produce beautiful fall foliage, and both types of trees provide some amount of shade and both look beautiful in gardens or yards.
But there are some differences that might be key in your consideration of these two types of maple trees.
Japanese Maple Are Ornamental
Japanese maple trees are planted primarily for their aesthetic contributions to a yard or garden.
They are ornamental trees that do not produce any type of fruit or usable product, and they are not used for lumber.
Japanese maple trees are very frequently favored by gardeners looking to add beauty and visual interest to a landscape or garden.
Because they are smaller than most maple trees, Japanese maples can be planted closer than standard maples to fences or gates, in corners, and closer to other plants and trees. They are also very colorful, giving extra vibrancy to any garden.
Red Maple Trees Have More Functions
Red maple trees are likely to be planted for different purposes. Like the Japanese maple, the red maple is very beautiful, especially in the fall, but it grows much bigger and will not fit in the same types of spots as a Japanese maple.
The red maple is also a hardier tree, meaning that it can be grown in more extreme conditions than the Japanese maple, so it might serve a different purpose in a less shaded area of a garden or yard.
You are most likely to plant a red maple tree as a major focal point of a yard or to provide ample shade for your house or garden.
Red maple trees can also produce usable lumber or firewood, and they even produce sap that can be used for maple syrup.
So, essentially, red maple trees are more functional while Japanese maple trees are more decorative.
Planting A Maple Tree
You can choose whether a red maple or a Japanese maple is best suited for your yard or home.
Maybe you want to plant a container tree that you will not have to transport into the ground, so the Japanese maple is the clear choice for you. But maybe you are hoping to grow a large shade tree, so you should go with a red maple.
Either way, these are beautiful trees sure to enhance your yard or garden.If you decide to plant a tree, there are a few ways to go about it.
For more information on transporting maple trees, head on over to our article for the best ways to transport them! Although Japanese maple trees don’t have to be transported as often as the other variations, you still may want to eventually. This article is full of all the info you would need to know!
Ways To Plant
You can just get seeds and germinate them, then translate the seedlings into the ground or container.
If your budget permits and you would like to start further in the process, you can buy a seedling or sapling of varying sizes.
Some are even sold at several feet tall already, giving you quite the head start on growing your red or Japanese maple tree.
You can buy Japanese maple tree seeds if you want to grow your tree from a seedling. Yunakesa Japanese Maple Seeds, for example, are available online. You can also order live saplings if you want to start later in the process, like with this DAS Farms Red Maple Sapling.
That’s A Wrap!
Now you are ready to decide which type of maple tree is right for you. Or maybe you have decided to plant one of each. Either way, you now have enough information to tell these trees apart from each other and plant accordingly.
Now that you’ve got all the detail about which maple to grow, make sure to check out our article on a maple tree timeline, to assist you on your tree journey!
If you are unsure which tree is best for your environment, we recommend heading on over to a local professional to assist you.
Enjoy your new maple tree or trees!
References
Frank, S. D., Klingeman III, W. E., White, S. A., & Fulcher, A. (2013). Biology, injury, and management of maple tree pests in nurseries and urban landscapes. Journal of Integrated Pest Management, 4(1), B1-B14.
Honma, A., Koyama, T., & Yazawa, K. (2010). Antihyperglycemic effects of Japanese maple Acer amoenum leaf extract and its constituent corilagin. Journal of wood science, 56(6), 507-512.
Popular because of both their breathtaking beauty and general hardiness (two qualities that make them excellent choices for adding to virtually any garden or landscape), Japanese maple trees are known primarily for their bright crimson foliage.
Even with their widespread popularity, however, many people don’t understand when Japanese maple trees turn red or even why they exhibit these dramatic color changes. The simple explanation for why Japanese maple trees change between red and green relates to the various pigments in the leaves and how certain weather and temperature conditions affect those pigments.
In order to help you better understand this fascinating phenomenon, we’re going to discuss the matter in greater detail. We’ll go over not only the science behind these color changes but also share with you some information about what might trigger the switch from red to green (and vice versa). We hope you find this information interesting!
Japanese Maples Begin Spring New Growth With Red Foliage
While it’s easy to say that, in general, Japanese maple trees start with red leaves in springtime, the reality is slightly more complex and depends on a few different factors.
Some of the factors that can affect leaf pigmentation include (but are not limited to) the weather and temperature conditions where you live as well as what type of Japanese maple you are growing.
Additionally, as we will discuss momentarily, not all maple trees are created equal when it comes to when they develop red leaves (or if they ever display red leaves at all) so it’s important to understand these details when learning about these marvelous trees.
Only Specially Selected Japanese Maples Begin With Red Leaves
As mentioned above, not all Japanese maple trees begin with red leaves; rather, there are certain cultivars that possess this quality. Two of the most well-known of these varieties include Bloodgood and Suminagashi, both of which are known for their brilliant red and deep crimson foliage, but there are quite a few others as well.
Naturally, the reverse of this is also true: some Japanese maples begin with green leaves and don’t turn red until a change of the seasons occurs. And there are other cultivars that never turn entirely red, instead displaying gold or orange leaves.
The red color itself is the result of anthocyanins and carotenoids; these botanical pigments are responsible for the colors such as red, orange, purple, and blue when seen in plants, and it is the presence of these pigments that results in the distinctive shades of crimson seen in Japanese red maples.
Though, as we mentioned before, not all varieties of maples possess anthocyanins and carotenoids in such high quantities as to outshine the chlorophyll in the leaves (which is responsible for green coloring).
As such, if your goal is to grow a Japanese maple with either red leaves or leaves that will eventually turn red, it’s important that you have at least a general understanding of these different cultivars. Understanding the type of maple tree you’re dealing with can help you better understand why and when its leaves may change color.
Some Trees Develop Red Leaves As The Weather Changes
While there are some varieties of Japanese maples that remain red all throughout the year, other cultivars begin with green foliage before changing color to red. This, of course, leads many people to ask: why do these trees change color? What triggers it? The answer in most cases is: because of the weather. Specifically, the weather and lighting changes that come with the changing of the seasons are often what cause trees to turn red.
As mentioned earlier, the color of maple tree foliage in general relates to the various pigments found in the leaves; green comes from chlorophyll while the more vivid colors such as red and orange come from anthocyanins and carotenoids (which we discussed briefly earlier).
While these pigments are usually always physically present within the leaves during all seasons of the year, the brilliant red colors they create sometimes only become visible when the weather changes in the autumn and causes the green chlorophyll to break down. The longer nights that come during the fall and winter months can also be a contributing factor to this color change.
Japanese Maples Begin To Turn Red And Orange During Fall
There are certain things that can trigger a color change in Japanese maples, but in many cases, it is safe to say that most maples turn red in the fall.
On that note, let’s dive into this phenomenon. We’ll also go over a few exceptions to it. It is our hope that this information will help you to gain a greater understanding of these seasonal color changes. It can get confusing, but that’s why we are here!
Most Maples Turn Orange Or Red In The Fall Months
As we discussed earlier on in this article, the two most common triggers for a color change in Japanese maple foliage are temperature and light. (There are also certain types of damage that can cause color changes, but we will go over those types of situations a little later on.)
Since autumn is often the time of year when you have colder temperatures and short days with less light, it should come as no surprise that fall is the time of year when most maple trees begin to change color from green to red (as the chlorophyll begins to break down from reduced sunlight and warmth).
Exceptions to this include varieties of Japanese maple that don’t usually turn red in any circumstances. Some cultivars, for example, typically exhibit green foliage that will change color to yellow or gold once autumn hits but never darken to orange or red. Any Japanese maple trees that are experiencing certain types of nutrient deficiency might also see an impact on their coloring.
Why Is Your Red Japanese Maple Turning Green?
To have your Japanese maple tree suddenly begin to turn from red to green can be not only confusing but also alarming, leaving you to wonder if this change in coloring is normal or a sign of some problem with your tree.
Generally speaking, Japanese maple trees are fairly hardy once they are well-established in their environment. That being said, when it comes to these marvelous trees, there are certain conditions or types of damage that can affect not only their health but also their coloring.
In order to help you better understand these color changes, we will now discuss reasons why a red Japanese maple tree might turn red. It is our hope that this information can help you to better understand not only the color change process itself but also when to be concerned about it.
Red Maples Will Turn Green If There Isn’t Enough Sun
Japanese red maple trees are known for not only their vibrant foliage but also their love of sunlight. These trees prefer growing in full sun, although some varieties can grow alright in partial shade. In fact, these trees love sunlight so much that if they do not receive sufficient sunlight to remain healthy, they may begin to fade from red to green (or even pale yellow).
As such, when first planting a maple tree in your yard or garden, it’s important to place it somewhere where it will get plenty of sunlight not only as a sapling but also once it grows larger and reaches maturity.
Generally speaking, it’s best to avoid planting a Japanese maple tree too close to your home, outbuildings, or any other large trees that might block sunlight from reaching it.
While the specific symptoms can vary depending on the actual underlying issue, certain types of damage and botanical diseases can sometimes cause leaf discoloration in Japanese maples, including a shift from vibrant red to green or even yellow.
According to the Iowa State University Extension, one of the most common causes of this sort of color change is Verticillium wilt. This fungus can cause a variety of different problems depending on the severity of the situation, but one of the most obvious symptoms is the leaves wilting and turning yellow or pale green at a time of year when they should not.
Overwatering can also cause discoloration in Japanese maple tree foliage, although in most cases this will present as brown or black splotches at the tips of the leaves rather than green. Additionally, if a Japanese maple tree is still young and has not yet reached full maturity, new branches may produce green leaf growth rather than red.
Improper Fertilization Can Cause Red Maples To Turn Green
It might come as a surprise to the average at-home gardener, but fertilizer can impact more than your tree’s overall rate of growth. Specifically, the chemicals and minerals contained within certain fertilizers can impact not only your tree’s health but also its color.
One of the most common causes of red maple leaves turning green is a nutrient deficiency caused by inadequate fertilizer use; if you do not use enough fertilizer (or don’t fertilize frequently enough) your tree will not be receiving enough key nutrients, which in turn can impact the tree’s health and also cause the leaves to change color from red to green.
Manganese in particular is an important nutrient for Japanese maple trees (manganese in general is a very important micronutrient for plants, and is critical for chloroplast development as well as photosynthesis), and not getting enough of it can cause leaves to turn green or sometimes even yellow.
As such, it’s important to use fertilizers that are both appropriate for Japanese maples and that have all the necessary nutrients. We will provide you with some fertilizer recommendations a little later on in the article; we hope you find them helpful.
While Japanese maples are trees that typically thrive in conditions of full sun, environmental conditions involving too much heat can often have a detrimental effect.
Generally speaking, most Japanese maple trees do best in USDA Hardiness zones 5 through 8 (although there are some more delicate cultivars that prefer the more moderate temperature ranges of Zones 6 or 7 specifically).
If you see the leaves of your Japanese maple tree begin to turn pale green or curl in at the edges, it could be a sign that it is enduring too much heat or experiencing too much intense sun exposure.
If you have a Japanese red maple tree that isn’t currently red for whatever reason, you’re probably asking yourself not only ‘why isn’t my maple tree red?’ but also ‘how can I get my maple tree to turn red?’.
Since we’ve already gone over some potential causes for why your Japanese maple tree might turn green instead of red, we will now discuss some tips for encouraging red coloration in your tree’s foliage.
Mild Days And Cold Nights Can Cause Japanese Maples To Turn Red
Generally speaking, Japanese maple trees do best when grown in conditions ideal for their health and development. In most cases, this means that they will display their signature red foliage when there are mild days with plenty of sunlight (but not too much heat) and when there are slightly longer nights with cooler temperatures.
Since there is little you can do to actually control the weather, all you can really do is be patient and operate with the understanding that even if your Japanese maple tree has not turned red yet, it will most likely do so once the weather changes to the appropriate conditions; as discussed earlier, these weather changes normally occur in the autumn and winter months, so that is when you can expect to see more vibrant red and orange foliage appear.
Certain Fertilizers Can Promote Red Growth In Japanese Maples
While fully mature Japanese maple trees do not usually need fertilizer (since their root systems should be sufficiently developed by that point to take in plenty of nutrients on their own) in some cases the use of fertilizer can help promote more robust growth and development in your trees.
In the case of Japanese maples, it’s important to make sure you select an appropriately balanced fertilizer that contains all the important nutrients they need to remain healthy.
As discussed earlier, if your Japanese maple trees are not getting enough of key nutrients such as nitrogen and manganese, it could impact their overall health as well as their coloring. As such, it could be said that using proper fertilizers to keep your tree healthy can, by extension, also help promote that vivid red coloring which Japanese maple trees are known for.
If you are in the market for effective and well-balanced fertilizers for Japanese maple trees, consider purchasing products such as FoxFarm Happy Frog Japanese Maple Fertilizer or TreeHelp Premium Fertilizer for Japanese Maples. You might also consider consulting with a botanist who is knowledgeable about Japanese maples since they should be able to offer you further recommendations for the care of your trees.
Quick Recap
And there we have it!
To summarize:
Not all Japanese maple trees begin with red foliage; some begin with green leaves and only turn red in autumn, while other cultivars never turn red at all
In most cases, it is colder temperatures and shorter days that will trigger the color change from green to red; these conditions usually occur in fall or winter
The color change itself relates to the breakdown of the chlorophyll in the tree’s leaves, which leaves the brighter anthocyanins and carotenoids as the remaining visible pigments
Other triggers for a color change include certain types of damage as well as various nutrient deficiencies; since these types of color changes indicate that your tree is unwell, you should take steps to avoid them
When fertilizing your Japanese maple trees, it’s important to use a well-balanced fertilizer to ensure that your trees are getting all the key nutrients they need to remain healthy
When in doubt about the state of your Japanese maple tree, don’t hesitate to consult with an arborist, botanist, or Japanese maple tree specialist
You might also consider reaching out to an arborist who specializes in Japanese maple trees; they will be able to offer you reliable insight into all manner of things related to Japanese maple care, from watering to fertilizing to pruning.
References:
Deal, D. L., J. C. Raulston, and L. E. Hinesley. “Leaf color retention, dark respiration, and growth of red-leafed Japanese maples under high night temperatures.” Journal of the American Society for Horticultural Science 115.1 (1990): 135-140.
Douglas, Sharon M. “Verticillium wilt of ornamental trees and shrubs.” The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station (2008)
Hansen, Sheriden M., Jaydee Gunnell, and Andra Emmertson. “Maples in the Landscape.” (2021): 1.
Niemiera, A. X. (2009). Japanese maple. Virginia Cooperative Extension.
Phillips, G. (2003, December 17). Culture and propagation of Japanese maple. VTechWorks Home.
Schmitzer, Valentina, et al. “Phase change modifies anthocyanin synthesis in Acer palmatum Thunb.(Japanese maple) cultivars.” Acta physiologiae plantarum 31.2 (2009): 415-418.
Overall cacti are slow-growing plants. This is because they grow densely, the soil they live in doesn’t have much nutrition, and there is very litter water in most desert landscapes.
That being said, there are a few exceptions as some cacti grow relatively fast.
Some of the fastest-growing cacti in the world include the Peruvian apple cactus which can grow 2 to 4 feet per year and the blue myrtle cactus which may grow up to 3 feet per year.
By most plant standards, this growth can be a lot, but for a cactus, this growth rate is quite exceptional!
In general, most cactus plants only grow about an inch per year. However, some cacti can grow to towering heights even though they grow so little year after year. This is because many cacti—like trees—can live for hundreds of years.
What Are Cacti?
Cacti are succulent, flowering, perennial plants that have herbaceous trunks and stems, and generally don’t have broad leaves. They usually have sharp, thin spines or barbs that are actually modified leaves.
Leaves are mostly absent from cacti because they can lose too much water. To perform food-producing photosynthesis, the cactus has chlorophyll-containing cells in the trunks and stems.
Cacti have hard-walled, waxy-coated, succulent stems that store water and perform photosynthesis. They have spines instead of leaves which lose a lot of water because it evaporates quickly through them.
Most cactus species have shallow, wide-ranging roots that are able to absorb superficial moisture. They range in size from small, stumpy balls, to imposing giants such as the iconic-looking saguaro cacti.
Where Do Cacti Grow?
Most cacti live in dry arid deserts but there are some that actually live in tropical and subtropical areas. Cactus plants can be found as far north as British Columbia and Alberta Canada, and as far south as Chile and Argentina.
Cacti and some succulents are native to North, Central, and South America. They can be found from Canada to the bottom edge of South America. Cacti and many succulents are native to the new world and can be found from Canada’s plains to the southern tip of South America.
To find the largest variety of cacti, head to Mexico, as this country has the most different species. A few species of cacti can be found in Madagascar, Sri Lanka, and East Africa.
The desert has more than just cacti! If you want to learn more about desert plant life, take a look at our article on 12 trees that can grow in the desert.
What Kind Of Cacti Are Native To The US?
If you live on the eastern side of the United States, you have probably seen the prickly pear cactus. This is one of the few native cacti found in the lower 48 states. Most of the other species are native to the lower, western states.
The prickly pear cactus is a low-growing, mounding cactus that has large, flat, “paddles,” covered in long, thick spines. They produce green or purple edible fruits that you may find in some grocery stores.
There are nearly 200 different species of cactus in the United States, but most of them live in six western states. Cacti you might find in the western desert states include the organ pipe cactus, the tall saguaro cactus, the cholla (pronounced choy-ya) cactus, and different species of barrel cactus.
Which Cacti Will Grow The Fastest?
There are some cacti that grow so slowly you may not notice that they’ve grown at all for years. While this can be fun for some gardeners, I personally like to grow plants to see them increase in size, thrive, and sometimes, multiply.
Below, we have included 9 of the fastest-growing cacti and where you can grow them in your yard!
Fastest Growing Cacti
CACTUS
GROWTH PER YEAR
MATURE SIZE (H X L)
STATES IT WILL GROW
SOIL TYPE
Argentine Saguaro
18 inches
25’ x 8’
Zones 8 - 11NC, SC, GA, MS, LA, FL, AL, AR, TX, AZ, CA, southern NV, western OR and WA, HI, PR
Well-draining, sandy/gravelly soil. Water when soil is completely dry
Pereskia
2 - 3 feet
15’ x 5’
Zones 10 - 11FL, the southern tip of TX, HI, PR, CA (limited)
Rich, organic, but well-draining soil. Water when the top layer is dry
Blue Column
1 - 2 feet
12’ x 4’
Zones 9 - 11FL, LA, TX, AZ, CA, western OR
Well-draining, sandy soil. Water when soil is completely dry
Walkingstick
1 - 2 feet
5’ x 5’
Zones 5 - 11(Easier to list states it won’t grow) MT, WY, ND, SD, MN, WI
Well-draining, sandy soil. Water when soil is completely dry
Pereskiopsis
5 - 6 feet (slows down after 2 years)
6’ x 2’
Zones 10 - 11FL, the southern tip of TX, HI, PR, CA (limited)
Rich, organic, but well-draining soil. Water when the top layer is dry.
Peruvian Apple
2 - 4 feet
30’ x 40’
Zones 8 - 11NC, SC, GA, MS, LA, FL, AL, AR, TX, AZ, CA, southern NV, western OR and WA, HI, PR
Well-draining, very sandy soil. Water when soil is completely dry
Mexican Fence Post
1 - 3 feet
20’ x 30’
Zones 9 - 11FL, LA, TX, AZ, CA, western OR
Well-draining, sandy/gravelly soil. Water when soil is completely dry
Blue Myrtle
1 - 2 feet
16’ x 12’
Zones 9 - 11FL, LA, TX, AZ, CA, western OR
Well-draining, sandy soil. Water when soil is completely dry
Silver Torch
6 inches
10’ x 4’
Zones 9 - 11FL, LA, TX, AZ, CA, western OR
Well-draining, sandy soil. Water when soil is completely dry
1. Argentine Saguaro
Also known as the cardon grande cactus or by the scientific name Echinopsis terscheckii, this fast-growing cactus can tower up to 25 feet tall, and grow 6 to 8 feet wide. It looks very similar to the typical saguaro, but they don’t get as large.
The Argentine Saguaro can be kept in a pot but it will only grow as large as the pot allows. The great outdoors is where these cacti shine and reach their full potential. Given plenty of sunlight and ample water and fertilizer this cactus can grow up to 18 inches per year.
Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix is a fertilizer-fortified, fast-draining soil mix great for your cacti. It can be used in pots or in the ground where you need better drainage.
In the summer, this cactus grows a profusion of white flowers that bloom at night. Moths and bats may visit the flowers to drink the nectar. The flowers will usually last most of the day before shriveling up and falling off.
Like all cacti, this one needs very well-draining soil but it can be watered a little bit more often than most cacti prefer. Be sure to plant this cactus in full sun.
The Argentine Saguaro does best in Zones 8 to 11 and is only cold hardy to 18° F.
These majestic cacti make amazing focal pieces. Put it in a prominent spot in your yard and then landscape a beautiful desert-like oasis around it.
2. Pereskia Or Rose Cactus
The Pereskia is a tropical plant that doesn’t look so much like a cactus. It has leaves and black or brown spines and grows more like a shrub, but it is a true cactus. These cacti are native to the West Indies and southeastern South America.
Also called the rose cactus, Pereskia grow two to three feet per year, with the fastest growth in their first year or two. They can get up to 20 feet tall, but typically top out around 5 to 7 feet tall.
The rose cactus blooms in the summer and produces pink or purplish-pink flower clusters followed by small pear-shaped fruits.
It’s hardy in Zones 10 to 11 and likes organic, well-draining soil. This cactus—because of its tropical nature—prefers a little bit more water than typical cacti. Water it when the soil dries out, and let it stay drier in the winter months.
They can withstand cold temperatures down to 25° F. Anything below that and the rose cactus may not survive.
This tall growing plant makes a great focal piece. Be sure to give it plenty of sunlight as they need full sun.
3. Blue Column Cactus
Another fast-growing cactus that can reach heights of up to 30 feet tall, this cactus is usually blue or grey in color instead of green. It’s a very popular cactus among nurseries and garden centers. Yellow spines compliment the bluish stems.
Pilosocereus pachycladus can grow a foot to 2 feet per year. Straight from the nursery, this cactus is usually a singular stalk, but given time it can grow more stalks and even produce tube-shaped flowers.
These cacti prefer desert conditions. They like it sunny, need sandy, very well-draining soil, and only want to be watered when the dirt has dried out.
The blue-column cactus comes from Mexico and South America and prefers temperatures at or above 70° F. They can even withstand temps when they climb into the triple digits, but they don’t like to be cold. Frost will be the end of pilosocereus.
Try not to let it get below 50° F. Zones 9 to 11 are the best zones for this heat-loving plant. Plant this cactus outside only if you have very warm winters. Otherwise, you might want to keep it contained in a pot so you can move it inside when it gets cold.
4. Walkingstick Cactus
Other names include the spiny cholla, cane cholla, or cylindropuntia spinosior. These spiny cacti can grow 3 to 5 feet tall and wide. They have thin stems that grow faster than most other cacti.
They can be from greyish-green to purple and can sprout red, yellow, or white flowers. The walkingstick cholla cactus blooms from late spring to early summer.
They require plenty of bright sunlight and a well-draining, sandy soil. They benefit from watering about once a week during the summer, but let the soil dry out. In the winter they only need very little water, but they are cold hardy up to -20°F.
The walkingstick cactus will grow in Zones 5 through 11.
It’s Not The Same Cholla
You may have heard of the jumping cactus or jumping cholla. You know, that insidious cactus that seems to attack hikers in the desert with scores of spine-covered knobs. That dangerous plant is called the teddy bear cholla.
Sometimes called the “most dangerous plant in America,” the teddy bear cholla doesn’t actually jump at you, but if you get close enough to brush up against one, you’ll never forget it.
It will send needle-sharp spines into you that are difficult and painful to remove. The spines are so springy that they can bounce back onto you. This characteristic gives the segments the appearance of jumping at you.
They also have multiple backward-pointing barbs on the spines that make it feel like you’re pulling out fish hooks.
The walkingstick cholla is related but does not have the same habit. Parts of the plant can break off when it’s disturbed, but the spines usually are not as long and are definitely not springy.
Give this cactus plenty of room. The joints can be fragile and will fall off when it’s disturbed. You don’t want to be digging underneath it and have one fall off and land on your back. It would make a great specimen or focal piece in your landscape.
5. Pereskiopsis
These plants look more like succulents than cacti. Though technically cacti are succulents, not all succulents are cacti.
Pereskiopsis is another tropical cactus that prefers humidity and rich, organic soil instead of a dry, sandy growing medium. When potting these plants you should use about three parts organic potting mix, with a one-part mixture of perlite, gravel, pumice, and sand.
These cacti are heavy feeders, and like more moisture than typical cacti, but they still don’t like wet roots. If the soil isn’t draining well, root rot could set it.
Hardy in Zones 10 and 11, these plants can only handle temperatures down to 35°F.
These cacti almost never flower, and even in the wild rarely ever produce seeds. They do take very well to cuttings, however. Many owners end up with several pots of these plants when they learn how easy it is to propagate them.
Pereskiopsis is the fastest-growing cactus as it can grow up to a foot or more per month! Some people have reported 5 to 6 inches of growth in a single week.
You may have more planting options with this type of cactus as there are more varieties of plants that prefer a richer soil. But you may want to keep these cacti contained to a pot or border as they can easily take over.
6. Peruvian Apple Cactus
Cereus peruvianus is a fast-growing, very tall cactus that is often spineless. It’s called the Peruvian apple cactus because of the oval-shaped, edible, purple fruits that grow on the stems.
The fruit is said to resemble the inside of a dragon fruit with a soft, sweet, creamy texture with crunchy seeds.
This cactus can get very tall (up to 30 feet) and spreads out by growing more long stems up into the sky. Some of the stems can grow to a width of 8 inches in diameter.
Long, thin flower buds shoot directly off the tall stems, and the flowers open up at night. In the wild, bats often visit these flowers for a drink of nectar.
Native to South America, this cactus prefers a very sandy soil and infrequent watering, along with plenty of sunlight. Plant this cactus in an area with exceptional drainage and full sun.
They are hardy in zones 8 to 11 and reduce watering in the winter. For your hard work, these cacti will grow up to 2 to 4 feet per year.
These cacti are definitely a focal piece because of how big they can get. If you’re planning on harvesting the fruits, place them in your backyard. When people realize how tasty these fruits are, you might find some missing.
7. Mexican Fence Post Cactus
Pachycereus marginatus resembles pipe organ cacti except they don’t get quite as large, though they can still reach up to 20 feet tall. They produce columnar trunks that look similar to fence posts.
Some gardeners cultivate this cactus to make a living fence because of their grouping, and upright growing habit.
Native to Mexico, and more accurately the states of Hidalgo, Queretaro, and Guanajuato, this cactus can grow up to 3 feet a year. In the spring the Mexican fence post cactus sprouts pink to red flowers followed by yellow, orange, or red fruits.
The Mexican fence post cactus is drought tolerant and prefers sandy soil. Let the ground dry out before watering it again and this easygoing cactus will last years for you.
It’s hardy to 25°F and will grow outside in zones 9 to 11.
These cacti would look great as a backdrop to smaller plants or do your own living fence. Put it against an already existing fence so you don’t have to do as much weed trimming.
8. Blue Myrtle Cactus
Myrtillocactus geometrizans is an odd little cactus. It starts out growing like most typical cacti by sprouting a single columnar stem, but as it ages it grows more shrublike. Often people describe it as looking like a candelabra.
At full height, they can get up to 16 feet tall, and just as wide or wider depending on how many branches they sprout. While they grow well outside, this cactus takes well to indoor life very well.
They are really great for those who have never cared for a cactus before, as they are quite forgiving. It needs plenty of light and loves the heat.
You may see white flowers in the spring, but they only last a day before dropping off. The good news is after they flower, they produce little edible fruits that are often eaten in Mexico where they are from.
The blue myrtle cactus will grow in zones 9 to 11 but won’t handle temperatures below 25°F. You need well-draining, sandy soil, and only need to water them when the soil is nice and dry.
They can be propagated by cuttings. Cut a stem close to the junction, then allow it to dry out for 2 to 3 weeks. Next, put the cutting in a sandy soil and water it once.
Wait for the soil to dry completely before watering again, and repeat this process. Keep it in a warm place with plenty of indirect sunlight, or partial shade until it is established and shows signs of new growth.
9. Silver Torch Cactus
Native to Bolivia and Argentina, the silver torch cactus looks like a fur-covered plant. This cactus grows a little slower than many of our other contenders on this list, but can still manage around 6 inches per year.
Fully grown the silver torch cactus can reach up to 10 feet in length. Though they’re covered in silvery hair, they still have sharp spines all along their length.
To add to the visual interest, this cactus (Cleistocactus strausii) may produce magenta-colored flowers in late spring through early summer.
Drought tolerant, the silver torch requires plenty of sunlight and a well-draining soil. Water it when the soil dries out during the summer, but scale back the water in the winter. They are cold-tolerant to the mid-20s and grow well in zones 9 to 11.
These cacti can make great focal pieces or work well to contrast smaller cactus plants. With the showy, fibrous hairs, it’s a great conversation starter.
Which Cacti Should I Plant In My Yard?
What kind of yard do you have and what are you looking for in a cactus? Do you have a large area with very sandy soil? Or is your yard a low-lying area that often has pools of water after the rain?
Most cacti will quickly root rot in thick, loamy, clay soils. You’ll need to add a lot of sand, gravel, or other soil amendments for yards that have heavy, moisture-rich areas. You may opt for container gardens if your soil is heavy.
Are you looking for a large focal piece, or would you rather have a small desert garden to add visual appeal? Do you have a big yard or a small plot? Here are a few options for planting cacti in your yard.
Fast-Growing Cacti For Focal Points
The cactus that will definitely be a conversation piece and an amazing sight would be the Argentine Saguaro. Similar to the mammoth saguaro, but not quite as big, these will definitely add a Southwestern vibe to your yard.
You’ll need a large area for this cactus to truly shine but it’s definitely a stunning piece once it’s mature.
Other, stunning individual specimens would include the Mexican fence cactus, Peruvian apple, and blue myrtle. These cacti can be amazing stand-alone specimens.
The walking stick cholla can make for an amazing focal piece as well, but I personally like the look of these with a few other, smaller cacti near it.
Which Cacti Work Well In Small Gardenscapes?
Most of these cacti will stay small if you keep them confined to pots. Creating a desert garden with various-sized cacti in different pots can look like a masterpiece.
But, if you want to grow several of these specimens together you still can do so. You’ll end up doing some trimming to keep some of these giants in check though.
Try putting up a few walking stick cholla, silver torch, and pereskiopsis together for an interesting cactus garden. You’ll have to divide the soil or put the pereskiopsis in a pot though because they like more moisture and more organic matter in their soil.
Use Your Imagination
You aren’t limited to these cacti only. There are hundreds of other, slower-growing varieties that will complement these fast growers. The prickly pear cactus can grow nearly anywhere and makes a great border.
There are dozens of barrel cacti that grow low to the ground and look like prickly balloons. These will compliment the tall, columnar cactus and help to fill in the lower areas of your garden.
If you are landscaping in the desert, you aren’t limited to just cacti! Check out our article on the 12 fastest growing desert trees for more ideas.
That’s A Wrap!
On the whole, cacti are slow-growing succulents. This is because they don’t receive much water, and the moisture they do get, they hold onto it like a leprechaun guarding his lucky charms. They also live in areas with very little nutrients in the soil.
The cacti included in this article are relatively fast-growing, so you won’t have to wait decades to notice new growth. They can be grown indoors or out, but they will live much longer with the proper care in an outdoor habitat.
So, get out there and grow some cacti. They’re no longer just for Arizona.
References
Hernández‐Hernández, Tania, et al. “Beyond aridification: multiple explanations for the elevated diversification of cacti in the New World Succulent Biome.” New phytologist 202.4 (2014): 1382-1397.
Fleming, Theodore H., and Alfonso Valiente-Banuet, eds. Columnar cacti and their mutualists: evolution, ecology, and conservation. University of Arizona Press, 2002.
Bobich, Edward G., and Park S. Nobel. “Vegetative reproduction as related to biomechanics, morphology and anatomy of four cholla cactus species in the Sonoran Desert.” Annals of Botany 87.4 (2001): 485-493.
When the temperatures start to get colder outside and the leaves fall from the deciduous trees in the late fall, you might look around and feel saddened by the bare branches only to see a spot of green standing out on a wintery day. It’s a pine tree!
Pine trees are hardy and easy to grow, so there are many choices for places to plant them, as they do well in many different types of environments.
You can plant pine trees indoors or outdoors, in containers or in the ground!
Read on for all the info you need to choose a pine tree, choose the best place to plant it, and plant it well so it will grow healthy and strong for years to come.
To get started, let’s take a look at some different types of pine trees and the purposes they might serve.
The Difference Between Pine, Fir, And Spruce Trees
Before you get ready to choose a pine tree, you might want to make sure it is actually a pine tree. It is easy to mistake fir or spruce trees for pines, or you might think that firs and spruces are types of pine trees.
But, in fact, pine trees are in a different group from fir trees, which are in a different group from spruce trees; all three belong in their own category.
To tell these three kinds of trees apart, you can start with the needles, as pine, spruce, and fir trees actually all have different types of needles.
Here are some specific characteristics of different kinds of conifers, including pine trees, spruce trees, and fir trees.
Characteristics Of Pine Trees
Pine needles can be distinguished first by their shape, as they are slender. Pine tree needles are also gathered into groups of three or five, and the group is wrapped up at the base like a little pine needle bouquet.
The cones of pine trees appear in clusters. They also have very large scales in comparison to other conifers.
Pine trees can be found all over the globe, which means you can easily find one to add to your own tree collection.
These evergreen trees are, just as their name suggests, always green, and they make a great addition to yards that are in need of some life and color throughout the winter months.
The first defining feature of a spruce tree is also its needles.
Spruce needles, unlike those of a pine tree, is not gathered into groups but rather each needle attaches to the branch of the spruce tree on its own via a pulvinus, which looks sort of like a peg.
Spruce trees have branches that have some space between them, especially when compared to the branch density of a fir tree.
They also have rather short needles that are pointy on the ends.
Characteristics Of Fir Trees
The needs of the fir tree are, like the pine and spruce, the easiest way to distinguish this tree from others that seem similar at first glance.
Fir needles are not in groups like pine needles, but they differ from spruce needles in that they do not attach to the branch with pegs.
As a result, the branches of a fir tree feel smooth when the needles fall, unlike spruce trees, which, because of the left-behind pegs, have bumpy branches when needles fall.
Fir Trees Look Most Like Christmas Trees
While you might think of pine trees when you think about Christmas trees, it is actually fir trees that perhaps look the most like the iconic shape of a traditional Christmas tree.
This means they are very wide at the bottom and narrow as the branches move up the trunk. The branches are grouped very closely together, and they turn up.
Another distinguishing feature of the fir tree is that crushed fir needles have a bit of a citrus smell, so that might be one particularly fun feature during the holidays!
A Quick Reference For The Differences Between Pines, Firs, And Spruces
To quickly glance at some information to tell pines, firs, and spruces apart from each other, you can use the table below.
Though they are evergreen trees, all of them lose needles at some point.The timeframe in which they do that is one distinguishing feature that varies between pines, firs, and spruces.
Pine
Fir
Spruce
Needles
Slender, clustered in groups of 2, 3, or 5
Soft, flat
Sharp, pointed, square
Needle Attachment
Groups attach to branch with pegs
Needles attach individually with pegs
Needles attach individually without pegs
Needle Drop
Needles drop after 1-3 years
Needles drop after 2 – 4 years
Needles drop after 4 – 10 years
Now you can tell these types of conifers apart, so you can decide what type of tree you want to plant. If you are interested in planting a spruce tree, make sure to check out our article 5 Best Places To Plant A Spruce Tree (And How To Do It).
Next we will examine some different types of not just conifers but, specifically, pine trees, as there are a lot of different types of pine trees to choose from when you get ready to plant one in your yard.
Get To Know The Different Types Of Pine Trees
Just as there are different types of conifers, there are also different types of pine trees. You should consider the various types before choosing one for your home, as they can vary greatly in size, shape, and purpose. Some are used for decoration and some for lumber.
Some are mostly found in large forests, while some are used frequently for indoor purposes like as Christmas trees.
Whatever the purpose that best suits you, here are some common types of pine trees to consider and some to avoid.
Scots Pine
The Scots pine, or Scottish pine tree, is formally called pinus sylvestris. Sometimes grown as Christmas trees, these majestic pine trees are, as their name indicates, very common in the country of Scotland. The Scots pine is, in fact, Scotland’s national tree.
Scots pines were brought to America from Europe during the early colonial period. Now, they grow in many areas of the United States and southern parts of Canada. The tree’s natural origins are in Scotland and Scandinavia.
Scots pine is a good pick for a yard with a lot of space, as these trees can grow to be about sixty feet tall and as many as forty feet wide.
If you’re looking for an iconic and majestic tree, and you have a lot of room, the Scots pine can be a statement piece that lasts for a very long time, as these trees live for as long as a staggering 700 years.
Eastern White Pine
The Eastern white pine tree is very popular in North America. It is used not only to look at but also for lumber.
These pine trees are very hardy and they grow very quickly, so you might consider this tree if you are in a hurry to provide some shade or privacy in your yard.
But keep in mind that the Eastern white pine grows to be very large; it can grow to be up to 150 feet, which is super huge, so you might not want to plant that in your yard.
But to plant something smaller that is similar, you might consider the next tree on our list.
Western White Pine
This tree, very similar to the Eastern white pine, differs in that it is much larger than an Eastern white pine, so this tree might be better suited to your yard if you do not have a lot of space for your new tree.
The Western white pine only grows to a maximum height of about 100 feet.
That is still super tall, of course, but it might work in your yard if you have a lot of space or can plant far from your house.
Sugar Pine
This is a tricky one to grow in a yard, especially near your house, as it is the tallest of all pine trees. Some sugar pines grow to be as tall as 250 feet.
The cones of this tree are so big that they can sometimes be two feet long.
For these reasons, it is very uncommon to see a sugar pine in someone’s yard, but if you have a large plot of land and are looking to fill your forest, this might be a good choice to plant a number of.
Red Pine
If you are looking to plant a pretty tree that does well in yards and gardens, look no further than the red pine.
This tree is tall, but it still works well in yards. Red pine trees live for a very long time, and they have red bark, which is how they earned their name.
This tree is well-suited to dry climates, so this is one to consider if you live in a part of the country that does not get much rain or snow.
Virginia Pine
If you want to grow a pine tree that might one day end up decorated in your living room at Christmas time, consider the Virginia pine, which is often used for just that purpose.
Confusingly, another name for the Virginia pine is “spruce pine.”
The Virginia pine is a classic pine tree with an iconic look, so if you are hoping for a quintessential pine tree in your yard, this might be the right tree for you to plant.
So, Where Should You Plant A Pine Tree?
Now that you have considered some types of pine trees and have decided on which one to add to your yard, it’s time to consider where exactly you are going to plant it.
It is best to think about this and make plans before you purchase your pine sapling, to give you enough time to make the best decision while keeping your young tree healthy.
1. Planting Your Pine Tree As Part Of A Collection Of Trees
Pine trees have been found to produce more needles when they are closer to other trees, which may be because they need more needles to compete with other trees for light. But this is not necessarily a good case for planting them close together.
You are likely better off with trees that do not have to compete with other trees, so space your pine tree accordingly from other pines or any other type of tree.
Aim to plant your pine tree at least 8 feet away from other trees. If you are planting multiple pine trees at once, see our below tips for planting your pine trees in a tree line.
2. Planting A Pine Tree In Full Sun
It seems that pine trees don’t gather as many nutrients in the summer as they do in other months.
This is probably different from what you are used to with other trees in your yard, but remember that, no matter the time of year, all trees need sunlight.
Pine trees, like many other types of trees, love full sunlight, so it is advantageous to plant your pine tree somewhere that gets a lot of sun all day long, especially in the morning.
If you have a spot that receives sun all day long from sunrise to sunset, that is even better. Try to find a good space for your tree that allows it to soak up the sun’s rays all day long.
You might think of shade trees as the more leafy variety like oak trees or maple trees, but pine trees can actually provide a great deal of shade, and they can do so all year long, unlike other types of trees that lose their leaves every fall.
To use a pine tree as a shade tree, first, consider the area of your yard or house that you want to shade.
You can scout this in advance of planting by simply observing your yard throughout the day to see where the sun falls and where the shade is needed.
Choose to do this on a sunny day, as any level of cloudiness could obscure the exact amount of sun or shade you are trying to achieve.
4. Planting A Pine Tree To Use As A Christmas Tree
This is a great idea if you enjoy having a live Christmas tree each year and you have a lot of space to start your own mini Christmas tree farm.
This method requires a lot of space, as you need to space your pine trees about 8 feet apart and, depending on how many years of Christmas trees you want to plant, you need to plant several trees.
A pine tree takes about 25 years to mature enough to be used for lumber, but you can use a pine tree as a Christmas tree as soon as it reaches the height you are trying to achieve.
If, for example, you want to grow pine trees to work as Christmas trees in your house with 9-foot ceilings, you probably want a pine tree that is about 8 feet tall. After all, you need room for the star!
This means that you will be able to harvest your first Christmas tree, depending on how big your sapling is, in about six years or even less.
And once you cut down one of your precious trees and bring it inside, keep its branches looking fresh throughout the season with a helpful product like Perfect Plants Christmas Tree Saver, which is like plant food for trees that have already been cut.
5. Planting Pine Trees As A Treeline Fence
Pine trees can work great as treelines for property privacy, but this usually works best on very large pieces of property.
If you are trying to achieve even dense coverage, make sure to plant your trees several feet apart so they don’t have to compete with each other for sunlight and nutrients.
You can plant the trees in a straight line or you can stagger them a bit back and forth; it just depends on how you want your treeline to look.
6. Planting A Pine Tree In A Container
If none of these seem like good options for your yard, but you still want to grow a pine tree, you can certainly grow one, or at least start to grow one, in a container.
This is a good option for people who are not sure where their pine tree’s permanent home may be, or for people who are planning to move in the next several years and would like to take their pine tree with them.
To plant a tree in a container (and this applies to any tree, not just a pine tree), you should start with a container that is significantly larger than the root ball of the tree.
For more information, read our article on the best soils and care tips for a container pine tree!
Things To Keep In Mind When Moving The Tree
Moving trees puts them at risk for shock, and you want to give your tree as much time as possible to acclimate to the container as it matures before you have to move it.
When you plant a tree in a container, you give yourself the benefit of being able to move the tree around (you can achieve this most easily by putting the container on a rolling plant stand) or being able to control the amount of light and water the tree receives.
Planting a container tree is very similar to planting a tree in the ground. The basic steps are to cover the root ball with dirt, water the tree thoroughly, and make sure it is set up for the right amount of light and the right temperature.
Some Fun Ways To Use A Pine Tree That Is In A Container
Pine trees are very decorative, and they stay that way mostly year-round, so they have myriad uses.
Many people like to use container pine trees as outdoor Christmas trees to decorate their front porches in the winter, complete with lights, bows, and even ornaments.
You can also use container pine trees as decor for a patio or gazebo outdoors.
Container trees are particularly easy to shape into desired looks, so you can make them look like topiaries or Christmas trees, depending on the aesthetic you want to achieve.
How To Successfully Plant A Pine Tree
Planting a pine tree is not very different from planting any other type of tree.
Here, we break down the steps so you can feel confident that you have set your tree up for success from day one, plus if you are looking for more tips, make sure to head on over to our article about sunlight and planting tips for pine trees!
Digging The Hole For Your Pine Tree
Once you have chosen the right location for your pine tree, the first step in planting it is to dig the hole you will plant the tree.
Clear away any debris, weeds, rocks, etc., and then dig a hole that is about twice the size of the root ball of your new pine tree.
Don’t use fertilizer when you first plant your tree. Give it a year or so to adjust to its new home.
Once you have dug the hole, it’s time to actually plant the tree.
Planting The Pine Tree
Gently place the pine tree in the hole you have dug, testing that the hole is deep enough to cover the whole root ball but not much deeper.
Replace the soil without packing it in at first.
Once you have covered the root ball so that the soil is even with the surrounding ground, pat gently until the dirt is packed in. Then replace more dirt as needed.
Water And Mulch For Your New Pine Tree
Once the tree is planted, water it thoroughly with a garden hose, it is so important to water your pine tree, and to keep watering it throughout the winter! For more information on why and how to do this, head on over to our article about watering your pine tree in the winter!
Once the ground is well saturated, you can place mulch, which will help the soil around your pine tree retain moisture.
Now you are ready to enjoy your new pine tree!
Some Closing Tips On Growing Pine Trees
Keep in mind that needles, though they are evergreen, do sometimes change color and naturally fall from the trees. This is completely normal and even a way to enjoy fall colors from trees that are not deciduous.
The best time of year to plant a pine tree is in the fall, so try to get your tree in the ground sometime in October or maybe early November.
This way, you avoid planting the tree in the hot summer months when it will have to withstand extreme conditions of heat, sun, and potentially dryness, and you avoid planting it in the frigid cold of the winter. Fall is ideal.
Lastly, remember that, if you live in a very dry climate, you may still need to water your tree yourself and not rely entirely upon rain.
That’s A Wrap!
Now you are ready to choose a pine tree, choose a spot to plant it, and plant your tree that you can enjoy for years to come.
Enjoy your new evergreen addition to your yard!
References
Fife, D. N., & Nambiar, E. K. S. (1982). Accumulation and retranslocation of mineral nutrients in developing needles in relation to seasonal growth of young radiata pine trees. Annals of Botany, 50(6), 817-829.
Nilsson, U., & Albrektson, A. (1993). Productivity of needles and allocation of growth in young Scots pine trees of different competitive status. Forest Ecology and Management, 62(1-4), 173-187.
There’s not much that’s better than sitting under a shady tree on a warm summer day. The leaves make a pleasant rustle as a cool breeze trickles by, and the warm rays of the sun dapple the ground. What’s not easy is picking the right shade tree for your backyard.
Generally, easy to plant shade trees for your backyard should be fast-growing, hardy, and offer plenty of shade.
Trees such as the tulip tree, linden tree, various oaks, and sycamore trees check those boxes! You don’t want a tree that makes a mess, has invasive roots or can be felled by a slight breeze.
While there are literally hundreds of trees you can choose from, not all of them make great shade trees. Even though they are sold at the nursery, it doesn’t mean they are well-behaved trees.
In this list, we have 11 easy-to-plant shade trees that require very little maintenance once they are established, and won’t become a nuisance.
1. Tulip Trees Are The Fast-Growing Giant
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
Best Soil Type
Moist, well-drained. Hardy once established
Average Height
70 to 80’ tall
Average Spread
40 to 50’ wide
When you have a lot of open space and you’re looking for a tree that can drop some shade quickly, the tulip tree has you covered. Sometimes called tulip poplar, yellow poplar, or whitewood, this tree is actually in the family of magnolia trees.
These trees are so named because of the light yellow or orange, to cream-colored flowers they produce that look much like the popular spring bulbs.
In the spring, these flowers create an interesting contrast against the broad, dark green leaves.
These trees attract plenty of birds, squirrels, and pollinators. You’ll help out the local ecology when you plant these trees.
Tulip Poplars Grow Quickly And Get Big
Tulip trees can grow over two feet per year, meaning in ten years, you’ll have a tree that’s over 20 feet tall. They will keep this incredible growth rate for most of their lives. You’ll need a lot of space for these trees though because they can get quite tall.
These trees usually grow to 70 or 80 feet tall with a wide canopy that can stretch out over 50 feet.
They have shallow roots that can be difficult to mow around and can make it challenging to plant under them.
But we understand wanting a tree with which roots won’t be a problem! Head on over to our article about shade trees that won’t give you root problems, to help you find find the right tree for you!
Tulip Trees Are Very Low Maintenance
The tulip tree grows with a single trunk and many branches that shoot off the main trunk. Because of this habit, it won’t require much in the way of trimming. The most you’ll have to do is just trim off dried-up, no longer viable limbs.
Tulip poplars are also very healthy trees. Most insects and illnesses don’t bother messing with these giants.
With that comes one exception, aphids.
Aphids Are Problematic For Tulip Trees
Aphids like to attack tulip trees, but they rarely do much damage. The tree is such a quick-growing and strong tree that it can easily shrug off an aphid infestation and grow back better the next year.
The biggest problem you’ll have from the aphids is the honeydew they drop as they are feeding.
The aphids can cause tiny, sticky droplets to fall everywhere underneath the tree’s canopy.
Uses For Tulip Tree Lumber
During the United States’ early, formative years, the tulip tree was used by pioneers to build houses and barns.
Now, these trees are mostly used for plywood, timber, furniture, and cabinets to name a few uses.
Where To Plant Tulip Trees
As we have already established, tulip trees get massive. You won’t want to plant these trees in most urban settings. You will need to give the tulip tree plenty of space so it can spread without competition.
Keep it away from fences, outbuildings, and of course your house. You’ll also have to pick a nice sunny spot because these trees are sun lovers. When they grow with other trees, they try to shoot up past all the others, if they don’t they will end up suffering and becoming unhealthy.
2. Linden Trees Are Great For Honey And Bees
Hardiness Zones
3 to 8
Best Soil Type
Prefers well-drained moist soil but tolerates most soil types
Average Height
50 to 60 feet
Average Spread
20 to 40 feet
Linden trees have been popular trees in landscapes for many years.
When these trees are planted in urban neighborhoods, they fill the streets with a sweet perfume in early summer.
Many species of these trees have romantic-looking heart-shaped leaves. Pair these leaves with the fragrant flowers and you have a wonderful summer picnic tree.
Bees Love Linden Trees
In the wild, when linden trees reach the end of their lifecycle, the hollows are often filled with honeybees and heavy combs filled with sweet honey.
Bees also love flowers because of how much nectar they can gather from the large trees. Even lumber is often used to make the frames for beehives.
Linden Tree flowers are also used in the perfume industry and can make delicious tea. Check out Buddha Teas Organic Linden Tea for a floral, sweet-tasting tea that’s as relaxing as chamomile.
To sweeten your linden tea, try out Breitsamer Honig Linden Raw Honey. This honey is light, very sweet, and may have hints of peppermint hiding in its unique bouquet. Use this linden flower honey to sweeten your teas and pastries, or simply load it onto warm, freshly baked bread.
Linden Trees Can Tolerate Tough Conditions
These trees grow so well in urban landscapes because they can tolerate the most punishing conditions once established.
They love moist, well-draining soil, but as long as they are cared for during the first year or two after planting, they can grow well in poor soil, and deal with plenty of pollution.
They are medium to large trees, growing up to 60 feet tall and spreading up to 40 feet wide, but they can be trimmed to maintain compact growth.
The wood and branches are tough and springy meaning they tolerate even the strongest of winds. Linden trees, even though they grow pretty large, rarely fall over or lose branches in heavy storms.
More Benefits To Linden Trees
These trees can grow from 18 to 24 inches in a year. You’ll end up with a strong, fragrant, hardy shade tree in a few years.
The linden tree doesn’t have a super dense canopy. It actually lets in a little bit of sunlight, enough to let some grasses grow without a problem.
If you don’t want to worry about what can grow underneath your trees, the linden tree lets you grow shady grasses easily.
There aren’t many pests that bother the linden tree once it’s established.
You may have to deal with Japanese beetles when the tree is young, and aphids tend to like the linden tree. These pests are relatively easy to deal with, and once the tree is a few years old, it can handle these insects without problems.
The linden tree puts on a bright yellow display in the fall. It’s a pretty tree in the spring, produces fragrant showy flowers in the summer, then produces a bright yellow show in autumn. This is one easy-to-grow shade tree that puts on a show three seasons out of four.
3. Sycamore Trees Has Unique Camouflage Bark
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
Best Soil Type
Rich, loamy soil
Average Height
40 to 100 feet
Average Spread
40 to 70 feet
The American sycamore tree can be found as far north as New Hampshire and Ontario, Canada, and as far south as Florida and Texas. Through western spread, you can find varieties of sycamore trees in Nebraska and even in states such as Arizona and New Mexico.
Other names for the American sycamore include American plane tree, buttonwood, and water beech. The most distinguishing features of this tree are the mottled camouflage-looking bark and the seed balls that hang on the tree until mid-winter.
When trees grow, the outer protective covering—the bark—has to stretch and fill in to keep the growing layers covered. On the American sycamore, the bark is unable to stretch, so it sloughs off in pieces and grows back. When it does this, it gives the tree its camouflaged look.
Older sycamores can grow into massive trees with wide trunks. The trunks on sycamores usually split into secondary trunks a few feet above the ground, with branches and leaves high up.
They can grow up to 70 to 100 feet tall, with a spread from 60 feet to 80 feet wide under optimal conditions.
Sycamore’s wide leaves look similar to sugar maple leaves, and some varieties of this tree drop the “whirligig” seed pods called samaras. This is because the sycamore is a genus from the maple tree family.
A Sycamore Tree Is Perfect If You Have A Lot Of Space
If you have a large space needing a ton of shade, the sycamore tree may be the one for you.
Sycamore trees usually grow up to two feet per year under ideal conditions and can live for hundreds of years.
If you plant one of these trees in your yard, it will be there for generations.
Cool Shade With A Habitat For Wildlife
If you love to watch wildlife, then you should plant a few sycamore trees. These trees support an abundance of birds, beneficial insects, and other wildlife.
Many birds including chickadees, finches, and dark-eyed juncos eat sycamore seeds. Other birds that like to frequent these trees include the large pileated woodpecker and barred owls. These two big birds eat pests like mice and harmful insects.
Being that sycamore trees are related to maple trees, they produce a sweet sap that many woodpeckers enjoy.
Along with the seed and insect-eating birds, you’ll probably end up with numerous woodpeckers as well.
Sycamore Trees Attract Insects As Well
Sycamore trees tend to attract aphids, but this also brings in aphid predators such as ladybugs and hoverflies.
Hoverflies look and sometimes act like wasps, but they are harmless, and actually are beneficial insects.
Of course, squirrels love sycamore trees too. They will nest in the hollows, and eat the seeds, so if you love watching the antics of these acrobatic critters, you’ll get plenty of enjoyment as they skitter through the mass of leaves and branches.
You’ll Need Lots Of Space For Sycamore Trees
These trees are often planted in residential areas along streets and in parks and recreation areas.
They are tolerant of pollution, wind, and poor, compacted soils, so they make great shade trees in areas where other trees would struggle.
These trees are also used to help control soil erosion and shore up hillsides and near wetlands. The wide, spreading roots help to anchor soil and hillsides.
They are often found in wetlands, so if you wanted to help control erosion near a stream or river, a sycamore might be the perfect tree.
Since they can become so large, they need a lot of space to truly spread out. You’ll want to make sure you don’t have any buildings, sidewalks, or septic systems nearby when you plant these trees. Their roots can extend well beyond the canopy and will raise sidewalks and walking paths, or clog septic drain lines.
Though if you have a wide open area that requires shade, or you’re having trouble keeping your soil from getting washed away every time it sprinkles, think about the sycamore.
Sycamore Pests And Problems
One insect that can cause damage and stress to even the mighty sycamore tree is the sycamore leaf beetle. It is a small, black, bumpy insect that often resembles animal droppings.
Often these insects don’t bother healthy sycamore trees, so if you happen to see these pests, it may be because your tree is already stressed.
Luckily, unless it’s a severe infestation, this nasty-looking bug doesn’t cause much harm to the tree. While they are feeding on the leaves, it can look unattractive, but they usually make a full comeback the next year.
Anthracnose Is A Common Sycamore Tree Problem
Sycamore anthracnose is a serious illness that can disfigure these trees.
Anthracnose is caused by a fungus that affects tree leaves. It usually spreads by wind and rain when infected spores are passed from one tree to another.
Anthracnose causes defoliation. The trees that contract this disease typically drop their leaves and grow new ones. Anthracnose shows up as damage to the veins of the leaves which can spread to small twigs. This can cause shoot blight and cankers along small branches.
Anthracnose fungus tends to break out when prolonged mild temperatures are met with a wet and rainy season. The fungus tends to clear up if the average daily temperature is above 60° F (15° C).
Sycamore Trees May Require Some Clean-Up
Since sycamore trees can get so large, they will drop a lot of leaves in the fall. These leaves can get rather large as well. Meaning if you typically bag up your leaves every fall, a sycamore tree is going to require a lot of extra raking time.
However, if you simply let the leaves decompose, or you mulch them into your yard, you’ll create some extra nutrients for these trees, which could help to keep them healthier.
You may want to wait until early spring or late winter before you start your clean-up of sycamore trees. The seed balls like to hang around until mid to late winter.
If you like to naturalize your landscape though, sycamore trees are beneficial trees to lots of wildlife.
4. Elm Trees Are Making A Comeback Across America
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
Best Soil Type
Tolerates most soils
Average Height
40 to 60 feet
Average Spread
30 to 50 feet
Early in the 20th century, millions of elm trees were planted across residential areas. Elm trees are fast-growing, shade trees that can tolerate nearly any soil condition, no matter how poor. They also seem to thrive along polluted streets while helping to clean the air.
By the 1960s, cities, and counties across America were tasked with removing sickly and failing elms because they were struck with a fatal fungus. Dutch elm disease was introduced by the European elm bark beetle when it crossed the ocean from infected trees.
For decades, elm trees seemed to be on the decline because of the one-two punch of beetle and fungus, but with the hybridization of the elm tree with resistant species, the American elm is making a comeback.
You can now find dozens of insect and fungus-resistant elm species at many nurseries!
Are Elm Trees Right For You?
Elm trees exemplify the “set it and forget it” mentality. Once you plant it in the ground, you can very nearly just sit back and watch it grow.
Elm trees can grow in nearly any soil condition. They will thrive in heavy clay soils, just as well as they will grow in sandy, fast-draining dirt. As long as they find ample water, these trees can grow up to six feet in a year!
In a very short time, and with very little maintenance you will have a large, robust shade tree.
They Are Pretty Low-Maintenance
These trees don’t require trimming, but if you need to take some off the sides and top, they take very well to heavy pruning.
Most varieties of elm trees have small leaves and small seeds, so there is very little cleanup, even when they drop all their leaves in the fall.
It’s just not recommended to plant them near drain lines, sidewalks, or buildings because the roots will cause damage near these structures.
How Big Do Elm Trees Get?
Elm trees reach an average size between 40 to 60 feet tall, but they have been known to reach over 100 feet in height.
Their canopy spreads out widely, often in a pleasing, shade-forming, fountain shape.
Depending on how tall elm trees grow, the canopy can spread as wide as 80 feet.
The trunks on these trees often consist of several smaller trunks fused together or branching off from the main trunk. You’ll want to give these big trees plenty of room to stretch out.
Other Elm Tree Benefits
Throughout history, the elm tree has been utilized for its lumber. The wood is strong and very flexible, despite the fast growth rate.
It’s this characteristic that makes elm wood ideal for wooden longbows. For centuries, elm trees have been used to make bows. Especially when yew trees were not available.
The lumber from elm trees has also been used for shipbuilding. The wood works well even when it stays submerged permanently. This means the bottom ridge of the boat—the keel—was often made of elm wood.
Elm Trees And Wildlife
The tiny flowers of the elm trees are very beneficial to honeybees. These also attract butterflies and moths, more beneficial pollinators that need our help.
Elm seeds provide food for many bird species such as chickadees, purple and Eastern goldfinches, as well as the rose-breasted grosbeak.
Yellow-bellied sapsuckers feed on the sap just under the bark of elm trees, and many other species nest in the branches.
5. Red Maples Offer Beautiful Autumn Color With Plenty Of Summer Shade
Hardiness Zones
3 to 9
Best Soil Type
Prefers acidic, moist soil.
Average Height
40 to 70 feet
Average Spread
40 to 50 feet
The red maple tree is a stunning specimen to behold in the fall. They often grace landscapes with bold crimson foliage when the days start to shorten, and the temps gradually decrease.
Red maple trees are great shade trees in the summer that can tolerate most soil types and thrive in full-sun areas.
They often have a rounded growth habit, but they can be quite variable. I have a red maple in my backyard that looks like a spade shovel head, with branches nearly touching the ground.
Other red maples grow on a tall singular trunk with big rounded canopies. It really depends on the tree itself. Though it takes well to prune if you are looking for a certain shape, just try not to cut the top off.
Requirements For Growing Red Maples
Red maple trees grow best in slightly acidic soils that are often moist.
They compete heavily with other plants for moisture. Once they are established though, the red maple is relatively drought tolerant.
While acidic, moist soil is ideal for red maples, they can and often do grow in nearly any other soil type. They like rich loamy soil, but do well in clay, and sandy soil as well. Under clay and sandy dirt, you’ll need to water them occasionally so they don’t get too dry.
Red Maples Provide Color Year Round
For an easy-to-grow shade tree that has a yearly interest, you can’t go wrong with the red maple.
In the spring the tree bursts forth with small clusters of red flowers before the tree buds.
The leaves soon follow and start off red-tinged before turning green. In the fall the leaves erupt with varying shades of red, depending on the specific variety. Even in the fall, the red maple has red branches.
Red Maple Maintenance Requirements
Red maples are fast-growing trees, they can grow from 18 to 24 inches per year. While many trees that grow this fast tend to be brittle, this isn’t the case for red maples. Their wood is still strong, and they rarely drop branches.
If you plant your red maple in lower-lying areas where water likes to accumulate, you’ll rarely have to water it. During times of drought, you will need to water your maple more frequently.
This species of maple requires very little pruning. You can let them grow how they please without needing to prune them except for branches that are no longer growing.
Most red maples don’t need much fertilization. They aren’t heavy feeders, but if you do decide to offer some supplemental feeding, just use a multi-purpose fertilizer once every couple of years.
Oak trees are some of the most popular shade trees in America for good reason. They are strong, provide plenty of shade, and are easy to grow. There are several different species to choose from.
Whether you’re looking for a tall growing straight tree, or you want a sprawling oak with broad interesting branches, there’s an oak tree for you.
In the United States alone, there are over 90 different species of an oak tree.
Oak Trees Are Notoriously Low Maintenance
Even when oak trees are young, they require little watering. As long as your area gets regular rainfall, you’ll likely not have to water your oak tree. In fact, it’s best not to over-water them because fungus and root rot can start to set in.
Even during severe dry periods, you’ll only need to water your oak tree about once or twice a month.
Unless you are trimming a young oak tree to achieve a certain shape, mature trees don’t need to be pruned. The only branches that need to be removed are the ones that are dry and brittle. This is just to make sure they don’t fall on their own.
How Fast Do Oak Trees Grow?
This depends on the species, but as a general rule, most oak trees will grow from a foot to three feet per year. When they are young, oak saplings grow much more quickly.
For the first 10 to 15 years oak trees can grow two to three feet per year, then they slow down after that.
Oak trees will continue to grow throughout their lifespan. Some oak trees can live upwards of 600 years, but the average tends to be between 100 to 200 years old.
How Messy Are Oak Trees?
All trees drop leaves, seeds, branches, or needles, so in essence, all trees are messy. Depending on the variety, oak trees can be very messy.
Most oak trees drop acorns along with their leaves. While these small round or oval nuts can feed a plethora of wildlife, they can be a pain to rake up.
With that being said, most oak trees don’t start to drop acorns until they are around 20 years old.
Some oaks like red oak trees only produce acorns every two years. Then again, when the trees get much older, they tend to slow down until they stop producing altogether.
With the additional mess comes a tree that is extremely hardy, and needs very little in the way of care. If you don’t mind a bed of acorns and leaves, then you’ll have a shade tree that you probably won’t have to worry about for the rest of your life.
7. Ginkgo Trees Have Unique Fan-Shaped Leaves
Hardiness Zones
4 to 9
Best Soil Type
Grows well in most soils, but can’t handle consistent hot temps
Average Height
25 to 50 feet
Average Spread
25 to 35 feet
Gingko trees are some of the most unique and distinctive trees around. They are instantly recognized by their broad, fan-shaped leaves and compact growth habits.
These trees seem to be made for urban habitats and can withstand most soil types. They are at home in acidic and alkaline soil, as well as sandy fast-draining soil and heavy clay soils. The ginkgo tree doesn’t let pollution or salt keep its spirits down.
The flat, fan-shaped leaves turn a golden yellow in the fall. They have a nice habit of dropping all their leaves in a short period. Unlike most deciduous trees that take months to lose all their leaves, the ginkgo likes to do things all at once.
How To Grow A Ginkgo Tree
As long as you give a ginkgo tree dirt—nearly any kind will do—water, and plenty of sunshine it will thrive. Seriously, this tree is so easy to grow, even those without “green thumbs” can.
When you first plant it, drop in a little bit of fertilizer and keep the soil moist and you will soon have a great, unique shade tree.
Once they have settled in and their roots are growing well, these trees become drought-tolerant. While they don’t do well in hot, arid climates like the Southwest, desert states can grow in many other areas that are relatively humid.
Ideal conditions for ginkgo trees are rich, loamy, well-draining soil, with regular rainfall, and at least four hours of direct sunlight.
You won’t need to prune your ginkgo either. These trees don’t grow very tall, getting to about 50 feet tall max, and they tend to stay in a compact growth habit. Some people prune their ginkgo trees to maintain a certain shape, but it’s not a necessity.
I Heard That Ginkgo Trees Stink, Is This True?
That’s right, some ginkgo trees have a notorious reputation for smelling worse than a skunk after eating too much Taco bell. Fortunately, you can avoid having your yard labeled as the “Bog of Eternal Stench” by planting male ginkgo trees.
Female ginkgo trees put out a strong aroma when they start fruiting, so plant a male tree and you avoid the ripe feet smell.
Most nurseries only sell male ginkgo trees now, and some of these trees have been bred to be sterile.
When choosing a ginkgo tree, just make sure you get a male tree. Unless that is, you’re trying to keep your neighbor from coming over to borrow your hedge clippers again.
Ginkgo Trees Have More Than Just Unique Leaves
In more ways than one, the ginkgo tree is a unique relic. They have remained unchanged for hundreds of millions of years, and are sometimes called the living fossil. Add to the fact that the ginkgo tree is literally in a class of its own, and you have a very unique shade tree.
The ginkgo tree is the last living relative of the order Ginkgoales. All the other species in this order went extinct millions of years ago. While they are cultivated all over the world now, you can truly say you have a unique tree when you plant your own ginkgo.
8. Dogwoods Are Compact But Provide Many Seasons of Beauty
Hardiness Zones
3 to 8
Best Soil Type
Moisture-retentive, loamy soil
Average Height
25 to 40 feet
Average Spread
15 to 25 feet
In the spring and sometimes the summer, dogwood trees are instantly recognizable. They are covered in four-petaled flowers with green clusters in the middle. The flowers range in color from white, to yellow, or pink and red.
In the late fall and winter, most dogwoods produce small red berries that many bird species will eat, especially migratory birds.
Other animals that may visit your dogwood for red berries in the winter include squirrels, deer, rabbits, and possibly even black bears.
These trees don’t grow very tall but they can provide plenty of shade in small areas. They also show off pleasing colors most of the year. For a full list of smaller-sized shade trees, make sure to head on over to our article about the fastest-growing small shade trees, for a smaller outdoor space!
Requirements For Healthy Dogwood Trees
These trees don’t typically like full sunlight. Instead, they prefer morning sun and afternoon shade.
Luckily you can plant these on the northern or eastern side of your house to meet those requirements. Dogwoods don’t get very tall, so they don’t need to be planted as far away from your house as an oak tree, plus, you don’t have to prune them often.
Dogwoods will need supplemental watering during dry periods, but they don’t do well in low-lying wet areas. Making sure it’s watered regularly is the most care your dogwood will need.
Dogwoods Are Great Shade Trees For Small Spaces
Most dogwood trees only grow to about 20 to 30 feet tall and spread 10 to 20 feet wide.
Though under the best growing conditions, they can reach heights of 40 feet or more and get as wide as 25 feet, most will not get that big.
Dogwood trees have a moderate growth rate. They grow between one to two feet per year. It may take longer to get a good base of shade from a dogwood, but the spring flowers might make up for the wait.
If you don’t have several acres to plant giant oak trees, elms, or other looming giants, you might want to opt for a dainty, unassuming dogwood tree.
9. Ash Trees Are Under Attack
Hardiness Zones
2 to 9
Best Soil Type
Grows well in most soil types
Average Height
50 to 80 feet
Average Spread
40 to 50 feet
Ash trees are remarkable trees that grow tall and wide. They tolerate nearly any soil type and don’t need much in the way of care. The big problem is they are under attack by an introduced beetle that is quickly decimating ash tree numbers.
Because of the Emerald Ash borer, an insect that was brought over from Asia, these trees are not recommended in many states.
The adult beetle bores into the tree and lays its eggs. When they hatch, the larvae tunnel through the living tree tissue. When this living tissue is severely damaged, the trees eventually cease to live.
If you have dirt on your property, and you live in zone 2 through 9, then you can probably grow ash trees. Ash trees prefer rich, moist, loamy soil, but they can do well in clay, sand, and compact soil, and they can survive in slow-draining wet soil.
It doesn’t matter if your soil is acidic, alkaline, or neutral, an ash tree can handle it. As long as this tree gets plenty of sunshine and water, it can grow nearly anywhere.
The only care this tree need is to be watered during long dry spells. There is no pruning needed unless you are removing non-growing branches. Just keep a close eye on it for the emerald ash borer.
Recognizing Emerald Ash Borer Damage
There are several symptoms related to this beetle. The leaves and branches can begin to fade away before the fall, you may notice a lot of woodpeckers or a lot of growth at the base of the tree.
The most significant sign is small ⅛” to ¼” D-shaped holes.
These are exit holes from the beetle after it has evolved from the larval stage. If you see these holes, you might want to call an arborist to confirm.
Aside from showering you with cool shade in the hot summer months, these trees provide shelter and food for many animals. They can even feed tadpoles if they are planted near a water source.
Ash trees can be gorgeous in the fall. The leaves start to turn yellow, and continue to darken to orange, maroon, and then a deep purple color.It’s really an amazing show.
These trees are quick-growing specimens. The fastest species of ash, the green ash tree, can grow over two feet per year. If you’re planting these trees from seed, that means in ten years you could have a tree that’s over 20 feet tall.
Ash lumber is strong as well as flexible. That’s why it’s such an important wood for making baseball bats, hockey sticks, oars, bows, and much more.
10. Dawn Redwoods Are The Dinosaurs Of The Trees
Hardiness Zones
5 to 8
Best Soil Type
Deep, rich loam
Average Height
40 to 100 feet
Average Spread
20 to 30 feet
Dawn redwood fossils have been found in North America, right along the dinosaurs. These prehistoric trees were even thought to have been extinct until they were rediscovered.
According to the University of Kentucky,the dawn redwood was thought extinct for over 5 million years.
Though it was rediscovered in 1944 in China in the Szechwan Province. For two years scientists were unable to explore due to the war, but in 1946 a grove of over 1000 redwoods was found.
Not As Big As California Redwoods
The dawn redwood won’t get as tall as the giant California Redwoods which can easily reach heights over 300 feet tall. The dawn redwood tops out at a mere 100 feet tall and about 25 feet wide. They have a pyramidal growth, the bottom is wide and it gets smaller the higher it goes.
These trees that grew alongside the dinosaurs are fast-growing trees. They can quickly grow to 20 to 40 feet tall and give you over 20 feet of direct shade.
The Deciduous Tree That Resembles An Evergreen
While this tree grows and looks much like an evergreen tree, it will drop its leaves in the fall.
Even the small, soft leaves look like short pine needles, and the dawn redwood is a conifer. It grows small, green, round cones that house the seeds.
The Dawn Redwood Requires Little Care
This tree works well in urban settings where pollution can be higher and is often found along neighborhood streets. Aside from the small cones they drop, the tiny needle-like leaves require no cleanup, so they work well along walking paths and streets.
You won’t need to prune this tree as it grows nearly straight up, and in a conical canopy shape. The only pruning would be to remove old limbs that no longer leaf out.
They prefer deep, well-drained soil, but are tolerant of clay, and some flooding. The dawn redwood, once established, retains some drought tolerance.
11. Magnolia Trees Are The Sweet-Smelling Southern Evergreen
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
Best Soil Type
Slightly acidic loam
Average Height
20 to 70
Average Spread
20 to 40 feet
The only evergreen on our list today shows up with plenty of extra benefits. In the spring you can smell the sweet fragrance of the large blooms of the magnolia tree. While most magnolia flowers are creamy white, they also come in yellow, pink, or purple colors.
Magnolia trees are moderate to slow-growing trees. Depending on the variety, they can grow no larger than tall shrubs, or soar up to 70 feet in the air. They can spread up to 40 feet wide, offering you plenty of space to hang out in the shade.
Magnolia Trees Don’t Need Pruning
Unless you are looking for a certain shape, or the limbs are severely damaged, magnolia trees don’t need pruning.
Just let them grow and they will spread out and offer plenty of shade.
I have seen Southern magnolia trees stretch out so far the limbs reached the ground and then rooted to grow more trees.
Words simply can do such a sight justice. But it made for a wonderfully cool hideout in the heat of the Southern summer.
Different Varieties Of Magnolia Trees
While some trees, the Southern magnolia, in particular, is an evergreen tree, others are deciduous.
Most of them make great, easy-to-grow shade trees, regardless if they keep their leaves during the winter or not.
The Southern magnolia tree is the tree with the dark, olive green to almost black, broad, thick, and waxy leaves most of us know. While these trees are iconic, and reminiscent of slow, southern summers, they can be a little messy.
A few of the thick leaves drop throughout the year, but most of the previous year’s leaves drop in the spring. Then in the summer, after the flowers are finished, the tree drops the large seed pods. These trees can require a bit of cleanup if you’re trying to keep a tidy yard.
What Kind Of Soil Is Best For Southern Magnolias?
While this tree would prefer rich, well-draining, acidic, loamy soil, most of the time they are stuck growing in thick red clay. Which they tolerate very well.
Magnolia trees can also stand some flooding, but they won’t do so well in constantly wet soil.
They can take the heat, and are drought tolerant, as their natural habitat can be quite dry at times. Just be sure to give it some water during extended dry spells to keep this tree happy and provide you with plenty of shade.
How To Care For Backyard Shade Trees
Now that you have your shade tree picked out, let’s go over how to plant them and make sure they are around for generations to come.
A little bit of prep goes a long way with these trees. All of these trees are easy to care for and require little care once they are in the ground, but the planting part is vitally important.
Aside from the dogwood tree, the others on this list should be planted in a spot that gets plenty of sunlight. These trees will need at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Looking for some southern exposure will usually give your tree enough light.
Plus, if you are looking specifically for fast-growing shade trees, make sure to head on over to our article about the best, and fastest-growing trees for shade!
Make Sure They Have Space
You generally want to plant trees at least 25 feet away from any structure, especially your house. For some of the larger trees here, I’d recommend giving them even more space. When a tree can grow over 50 feet in the air, and spread as wide or more, planting them close is just asking for trouble.
Limbs can fall, or the tree can be knocked over during storms, so be sure to give them plenty of space. Even the strongest trees can be felled by Mother Nature.
Be mindful of sidewalks, driveways, pools, and septic systems. Some trees have shallow roots that can lift concrete causing trip hazards, or have roots that can infiltrate drain lines in their search for water.
Prep The Ground Where You’re Planting Your Tree
You may already know to dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball, but while you’re prepping the hole, have some soil additives ready to add to the hole if you have dense or sandy soil.
Most trees, when they are starting out, need a lot of nutrients to get established.
Make Sure To Dig Proper Sized Holes
When digging holes for your future shade trees, you need a strong shovel able to handle compacted soil, rocks, roots, and whatever else is buried in the ground.
That’s why the Bully Tools 14-Gauge Round Point Shovel will get the job done every time. It has a fiberglass handle and a thick, reinforced shovel head for the toughest of jobs.
Add Peat Moss!
Adding peat moss, or other soil amendments helps to hold moisture and offers plenty of organic matter for your young, growing tree.
You might also want to add a little bit of all-purpose fertilizer to the hole just to give the roots an extra boost.
Water Before Planting
I like to water the hole before dropping it in the tree, but after adding soil amendments and fertilizer.
Fill the hole about halfway full of water, then mix up the dirt with your shovel, then put your tree in the hole and backfill it with dirt.
This makes sure the rootball gets plenty of water, and doesn’t run off instead of soaking into the ground.
Be Careful With The Trunk
When planting your new tree, be sure to keep the new soil level with the root ball.
Don’t bury the trunk deeper into the ground. If the base of the tree is surrounded by dirt and moisture, you might be inviting fungal infections.
The same goes for mulch. Mulch is a great additive to help keep moisture in the soil around your new tree, and keeps the roots cool in the summer, and warm in the winter. Just be sure to leave a few inches free of mulch around the trunk of the tree.
Water Your Sapling
For a year or two after you have planted your tree, make sure it gets plenty of water. For the first couple of weeks, you may want to water your tree daily.
After two weeks, water your tree about two to three times per week, and then once a week for the next year or two.
When watering trees, garden vegetables, or flowers, soaker hoses are your best friend. Spraying the leaves and flowers can cause sun spots, and splashing the dirt up onto the plant can spread infections, so soaking the ground is the best way to water.
When looking for an easy-to-grow shade tree that shoots up fast, you have several choices. Depending on how much space you have, the amount of cleanup, and your overall appearance, you can’t go wrong with these trees:
Linden
Ginkgo
Dawn Redwood
Oak trees
Ash
Tulip tree
Sycamore
Elm
Southern Magnolia
Dogwood
Red maple
Each of these trees needs very little care once the roots are nice and established. Most don’t care what kind of soil they grow in, and many are drought-tolerant. Don’t wait for Arbor day to plant a tree, pick a few out and get to planting!
References
Herms, Daniel A., and Deborah G. McCullough. “Emerald ash borer invasion of North America: history, biology, ecology, impacts, and management.” Annual review of entomology 59.1 (2014): 13-30.
Hubbes, Martin. “The American elm and Dutch elm disease.” The Forestry Chronicle 75.2 (1999): 265-273.
Gressitt, J. Linsley. “The California Academy-Lingnan dawn-redwood expedition.” Arnoldia 58.4/1 (1998): 35-39.
Major, Randolph T. “The ginkgo, the most ancient living tree: the resistance of Ginkgo biloba L. to pests accounts in part for the longevity of this species.” Science 157.3794 (1967): 1270-1273.
By
Zack DeAngelis
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