Grow Your Business with Tree Journey

A strong, healthy tree is a beautiful sight to behold, especially when the leaves are swaying in a gentle breeze. We know the leaves typically fall off every autumn and regrow in the spring, but does tree bark grow back? Is there anything that can be done if your trees lose large patches of bark?

While trees can repair minor instances of bark damage, major bark loss won’t grow back and instead, the tree will develop thick encrusted ridges around the missing bark. When this happens, smooth out the missing bark edges as best as possible to allow for clean regrowth.

Many reasons cause trees to lose their bark. Let’s dive in and find out what these reasons are, what can be done about it, and how—if possible—tree bark can be repaired.

Why Tree Bark Is So Important

The tough outer layer of the tree, or tree bark, is the first line of defense. Much like our skin. The bark protects the tree from temperature extremes, keeps moisture from rain out, while keeping internal moisture in, and helps to guard against insects and animals.

Just like our skin, tree bark grows from the inside out and will shed from time to time as the new cells underneath are constantly replaced. When the growing layer of bark is damaged either by pests, environmental issues, disease, or other problems, it is unable to grow back.

The bark protects the growing layers of the tree that supply the limbs and leaves with water and nutrition. If these layers get damaged enough, it can spell certain doom for the tree. When large sections of bark get damaged or destroyed, especially if the damage goes completely around the tree, fatality increases.

According to The Department of Environmental Conservation, When tree bark is missing or damaged it can weaken the entire tree. Think of damaged bark like a wound in your skin. It can allow bacteria and viruses to enter which can be a cause for concern.

If a tree is missing a lot of bark, or there are signs of decay, you should contact a professional to inspect your tree.

Why Tree Bark Doesn’t Grow Back

Trees can grow their leaves back, so why shouldn’t they be able to grow their bark back? Let’s look at the tree leaves like the hair on our heads. We can cut our hair down to the scalp, and it will grow back; a tree’s leaves are similar to human hair because they are constantly replaced.

The tree bark is made of different cells and so tree bark will act differently when damaged. If the outer layer of the bark is damaged, it can regrow from underneath. Trees even shed bark occasionally, especially trees like the river birch.

When the growing layer underneath the outer hard, rough, bark layer is removed or severely damaged, it can’t regenerate.

Of course, trees like the paper birch have bark that naturally falls off and grows back naturally.

What Causes Trees To Lose Their Bark? 

Trees don’t typically drop all their bark-like some people who shed their clothing as soon as they get home after a long day at work. There has to be an underlying condition or problem that makes trees lose their bark. It’s essential to their wellbeing.

Many causes such as insect infestations, animal damage, environmental factors, or human causes can damage tree bark. Let’s delve into these reasons and more to find out if there is anything that can be done to help the tree.

1. Insect Infestation

Many insects want to get the nutrients that trees create for themselves. Boring insects—the ones that drill holes into the trees, not the ones that drone on about uninteresting subjects—especially can cause a lot of damage to trees.

For instance, the emerald ash borer has been wreaking havoc among American ash trees; killing them by the millions. If you see peeling bark or large patches of bark that have fallen off, along with small holes in them, you might have a problem with borers. The biggest telltale sign will be D-shaped holes from where the larvae have burrowed out of the tree.

The larvae of boring insects cut tunnels through the growing layers of the tree and if the infestation is big enough, it can kill the tree by cutting off the nutrition to the leaves and rest of the tree.

Ants can also damage trees and tree bark, though they are usually attracted to trees because of other insects that produce a byproduct called honeydew. If you find ants in or around your trees, you probably have another issue with your trees such as rot or an aphid infestation.

To get rid of borers or ants in your trees, your options are pretty limited. You can either cut down and destroy the infested trees or use some kind of pesticide to get rid of the insects. We don’t recommend doing the latter yourself; it would be better to contact a professional arborist or pest control expert.

You can learn more about the trees that insects love In order to understand what trees are most at risk for insect damage.

2. Animal Damage

Many animals out there will damage the bark of trees in the food search. When food is scarce these animals will strip away the bark to reach the inner, tender areas of the tree for sustenance. Newer trees and saplings are particularly susceptible to this kind of damage.

Deer, squirrels, porcupines, voles, and rabbits can all make a meal of the tender cambium layer underneath the dry bark. This layer is the growth layer. It carries water and nutrition to the other parts of the tree and can be nutritious to animals when other sources of food are harder to find.

Bark Damage From Deer

They can strip off large sections of bark either by rubbing with their antlers or by stripping away the bark to get to the inner cambium layer. This damage looks like ragged strips and/or large chunks of bark missing from the tree a few feet off the ground.

To repair this damage, you need to trim off the ragged areas of the bark with a sharp knife. Try not to cut more healthy bark off. Then simply let the area heal on its own.

Don’t use any kind of paint or sealant as this can hinder the healing process. To help the tree heal itself better, make sure it gets plenty of water, and add some fertilizer if you haven’t done that lately.

If the tree doesn’t appear to be responding well 2 to 3 weeks, you should seek out a local arborist.

Bark Damage From Rabbits

In winter you might see evidence of rabbits chewing on your trees at the ground level. Rabbits can be especially damaging because they cannot get very high, instead, they can end up girdling the tree. Girdling happens when the bark is damaged completely around the tree and is often leads to the end of the tree.

If you see rabbit damage to your tree, the same steps as for the deer apply here. Be sure to pay special attention to the tree if it has been girdled as the tree will likely need to be removed.

Bark Damage From Squirrels

These fluffy “tree-rats” can cause damage to the tops of the trees and along branches. This usually happens in late winter when food storage becomes scarce. You shouldn’t have to worry about this damage too much because of what damage the squirrels do, the tree can usually deal with.

Bark Damage From Voles, Gophers And Mice

Except gophers, these rodents don’t usually pose too much risk to trees when they dig through the bark. Mice and voles will also nibble on the small roots of trees.

If you notice small holes and areas of freshly dug soil mounds near your trees you might have mice or voles living in the ground. Gophers dig the same types of holes, only larger. Gophers can cause serious problems to trees, especially if they are saplings.

You can use strong-smelling repellents to run these rodents off your property. Castor oil and cayenne pepper are two scents that help to run these guys off. Either pour them around their holes or mix with water and spray wherever you see the evidence.

If these methods don’t work, contact a professional pest control service to help you handle these animals. Often human methods are preferred. Most professional pest services have several ways to deal with repeat offenders.

Bark Damage From Porcupines

These walking pincushions can seriously damage trees. They can also climb very well and will often stay in a tree until it has had its fill. Porcupines will easily girdle a tree as it makes a meal of the inner layer behind the bark.

Damage by porcupines will look like shallow gnaw marks, usually around a tree and often several feet high. This kind of damage is almost always fatal for the tree. The best way to deal with porcupine damage to trees is prevention, but we will get to that just a little bit later.

3. Woodpeckers Cause The Most Bark Damage

Woodpeckers and sapsuckers can also damage the bark of a tree. While woodpeckers don’t normally damage healthy trees, the sapsuckers often do because they are looking for the sweet-tasting sap running just beneath the surface of the tree.

Woodpeckers tap at trees looking for grubs, beetles, and other insects under the bark. Unless there’s an infestation, woodpeckers will only chip away at small sections of the tree looking for food. The exception is the pileated woodpecker.

These large woodpeckers can strip away wide sections of bark looking for insects to eat. Fortunately, these birds often seek out dead or decaying trees as these attract the bugs they like to dine upon. They can occasionally attack healthy trees, but they are only looking for insects.

If you have a lot of woodpeckers on your property, you might want to have an arborist check your trees for insect infestation or you may have a lot of dead and decaying trees that need to be taken down before they cause damage.

Sapsuckers on the other hand will drill shallow holes into trees in search of the sap they feed on. They often tap holes in horizontal or vertical lines, then return a little while later to slurp up the tasty sap dripping out of the holes.

These birds don’t typically stick around for long as they are migratory and the damage they do is usually minimal. A healthy tree can quickly heal after a sapsucker comes in for a meal.

4. The Tree Has Reached The End Of Its Lifecycle

When large sections of bark fall off trees, it’s never a good sign. It could signal rot or a disease that is killing the tree. If you notice bark falling off in large sections you may be able to save it with the help of a professional if you act quickly.

Rot can set in quickly when a tree is not healthy. This often attracts insects and fungus that will help speed up the process. Depending on the type of tree it may be worth trying to keep it alive, but odds are you’ll be better off having someone cut it down for you and replace it with a new tree.

As I mentioned before, contacting a professional tree service will help you determine if saving your tree is a feasible option.

5. Sunscorch Or Sunburn

That’s right, even trees can get sunburn. This especially can happen during very hot, dry summers. Sunscorch is something that can peel the bark off a tree in the winter. Either of these events can severely damage a tree’s bark and shorten the life of the tree.

Sunscorch happens in winter, typically on the south to the southwest side of the tree trunk. When the bark is frozen because of extreme temperatures, then warmed because the sun thaws it out, sun scorch can happen.

The Utah State University Forestry Extensions explains that sunscald/sun scorch is caused by winter freezing temperatures that affect sun-warmed tissues of the tree called the cambium. The bark will start discoloring and if the injury is severe enough the bark will slough off.

Younger trees with thinner bark are more susceptible to this type of damage. The bark will peel off leaving the growing inner layers of the tree exposed to the elements. If this happens, it will shorten the life of the tree.

To prevent this on your trees, you can leave the lower branches on the trees so they help to provide shade, plant the trees somewhere they will get shade on the southern side, like near a building, or you can wrap your tree to protect from temperature extremes. This Walter E. Clark Tree Wrap is a highly recommended product to protect from sunscalds!

Sunburn on a tree is the same thing we get when we go on vacation and spend too much time in the sun. The extreme heat and constant glare of the sun on a tree’s trunk can make the bark peel just like your back after a long day at the beach. Sunburn is very similar to sun scorch except it happens in the summer months.

Drought Conditions Will Hasten Sunburn In Trees

For trees with sun scorch, keeping the trunk shaded or protected during hot, dry summer months will help to prevent sunburn. Keeping the tree watered and healthy will also help to prevent this from ruining the bark.

When planting new trees, the best time to plant them is spring and fall. Avoid planting during the summer if at all possible as the tree will not be established enough to withstand a hot, dry summer. Using a white or reflective wrap can help prevent sunburn as well.

The best way to heal your trees after either sunburn or sun scorch is to keep the tree watered and healthy as possible. Remove any dead, peeled bark so insects and fungus don’t have a place to hide and let the tree heal itself. Don’t put any sealants or covers on the injured areas as that has been proven to be detrimental.

Did You Hurt Your Tree Bark?

A tree’s bark can be damaged by trimmers and mowers as well, especially newer trees. Trees can be girdled this way. A powerful trimmer, even in professional, steady hands, can accidentally strip away bark and damage a tree in an instant.

To prevent this type of damage you can plant ground cover around the trunk of the tree or add a bed of mulch. Just leave an indention a few inches to a foot out from the base of the tree. You want your mulch to resemble a donut around the tree.

If you accidentally damaged your tree’s bark, take a look at our guide on how to save a tree with stripped bark here!

Fungi And Tree Bark

Bad jokes aside, hypoxylon canker is a fungus that can cause tree bark to fall away in large sections. If you see a fungus growing underneath the peeling bark, along with dying branches and yellowing leaves it’s probably hypoxylon canker.

If you are having trouble with disease and fungi targeting your trees, consider using something such as this BioAdvanced Concentrate product!

Unfortunately, there isn’t much that can be done if this fungus sets in your trees. The best thing to do is to remove the tree and destroy the wood to prevent it from spreading to nearby trees and shrubs.

Preventing Tree Bark Loss

A strong, healthy tree is the best prevention from factors that can damage or drop bark. Proper watering, fertilizing, and trimming of your trees will be able to handle most problems. When trees are healthy, they are much more capable of healing wounds, fighting off insects, and preventing issues.

Munching critters on the other hand might be a bit tougher to prevent. If you have problems with rodents like gophers, rabbits, and ravenous porcupines, the best way to keep these pests off your trees is to wrap the trunks with a wire mesh. Something like these Andwarmth Tree Protectors will help protect against most animals.

If you have issues with porcupines, you might have to go a little more extreme as these prickly characters are great climbers. You might have to employ some catch and release traps or attach some electric fence wire around your trees to keep porcupines away.

How To Save A Tree With Damaged Bark

As we’ve mentioned before, tree bark can’t grow back. The tree can heal itself if the damage isn’t too extensive though.

What you can do to help the tree after the bark has been damaged is to remove the jagged edges of the bark but be careful not to expose any more living tissue underneath. Use a sharp knife or chisel to round off the edges. Then just keep the tree healthy and let it heal on its own.

For one of the most common type of yard trees in the United States, check out our guide on the reasons why bark is falling off your oak tree and how it fix it!

Don’t Use Sealants

Just because they are out there doesn’t mean you should use them. Arborists and plenty of scientific studies say that sealants don’t help trees to heal. They can do the opposite and depend on what kind, they can offer hiding places for insects and fungus.

Girdled Trees

If the bark damage goes completely around the tree, all you can do is keep an eye on it and see if the tree can bounce back. A girdled tree has very little chance of healing itself as the layer of tissue that provides the rest of the tree nutrients and water is damaged.

If the tree seems stunted, leaves start dropping before autumn, or it doesn’t grow at all, you will have to remove the tree. There’s nothing else to be done.

That’s A Wrap!

Trees can regrow leaves and new branches every year, but when a tree loses its bark, it is incapable of growing back. There are a lot of things that can damage a tree’s bark such as animals, fungus, or environmental factors, and healthy trees typically can heal themselves if the bark damage isn’t too severe.

When tree bark is damaged, with a little knowledge and professional help, you can decide if the tree needs to be removed or if it will heal and continue to provide shade and beauty. 

References:

Baxter, R., and L. Hansson. “Bark consumption by small rodents in the northern and southern hemispheres.” Mammal Review 31.1 (2001): 47-59. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2907.2001.00078.x  

Villari, Caterina, et al. “Progress and gaps in understanding mechanisms of ash tree resistance to emerald ash borer, a model for wood‐boring insects that kill angiosperms.” New Phytologist 209.1 (2016): 63-79.  https://doi.org/10.1111/nph.13604 

Verheyden, Helene, et al. “Variations in bark‐stripping by red deer Cervus elaphus across Europe.” Mammal Review 36.3 (2006): 217-234.  https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2907.2006.00085.x 

You won’t be the only one weeping if you prune your large trees at the wrong time of year. Large trees are known to ‘weep’ sap out of large cuts if their branches are cut during their active growing season. When actually is the best time to prune large trees?

Always prune large branches from trees during their dormant season from mid-winter to early spring. This discourages resin, or sap from flowing from the tree cuts. Large coniferous trees may be pruned any time of the year, but it’s best to prune during their dormant season as well.

A well-pruned tree has a big impact on its longevity, appearance, and structure. Read on to learn how to tell if your trees are dormant and for more pruning tips!

How To Know When To Prune Your Large Tree

In North America, the late fall and winter months are considered the dormancy period for most trees. The temperatures are cooler, there is less sunshine, and trees are not actively growing new leaves and needles.

It is preferred to make all large cuts to big trees during this dormancy period, no matter what species.

You’re in luck if the trees around you are deciduous, meaning their leaves fall off seasonally because that’s the most obvious clue your tree is dormant! Your trees are in dormancy during this period when the leaves have dropped off for the season.

During the dormant season, the transportation of groundwater from the roots to the canopy has mostly ceased, and the leaves are no longer converting sunlight to energy to grow. It’s like the factory has shut down for the season, giving us time to prune!

Coniferous trees, or trees with needles and cones, are also likely dormant at the same time as their deciduous counterparts.

According to the United States Forest Service, you can prune conifers at any time of year. However, it’s important to note that pruning during the spring and summer growing seasons will likely cause the dripping of sap from branches.

Dripping sap from your trees is not desirable for a few reasons.

First, it’s messy; sticky sap is difficult to remove from cars, sidewalks, tools, etc. Secondly, the open wound is more likely to attract insects and pathogens to your tree.

There are times when pruning during the growing season can’t be avoided. In these instances, there are things to do to help protect your tree from making a sappy mess. Try using Bonide Bonide (BND225) – Tree Pruning Sealer for a fast, easy, and effective dressing designed to aid in the healing of any kind of tree wound.

You Can Trim Old Tree Branches Any Time Of Year

Pruning old and deadwood is a must-do, especially when removing it from large trees. The large dead branches often will split and hang vicariously above one’s head. These are often called “widow-makers”, for good reason.

Dead branches are easy to notice during the active growing season because there are no leaves growing on them or they have turned brown. This wood is no longer actively using the tree’s resources, therefore will not release flowing sap when cut.

During the dormant season, deciduous trees’ branches and stems are all visible, so it is easy to see the shape of the tree. It is also easy to see where there may be branches rubbing on one another and needing pruning. However, it can be more difficult to tell right away if the branch is dead. A couple of quick observations will give you the answer.

First, if it is dead, the wood will often crack and break off from the tree easily. Second, the bark will look discolored or dried out. Thirdly, there will be no buds or active growing tips on the stems from where the leaves will grow from.

Another common way to tell if the wood is alive or dead is to do the “scratch test”. Simply use your fingernail or blade and scrape away the outer bark from a small branch. If it’s green underneath, it’s alive. If it’s brown and dry, the wood is dead.

Prune Certain Early Flowering Trees In The Early Spring

Common spring-blooming understory tree species, such as Redbud and Dogwood trees, should be pruned just after flowering to preserve spring blossoms. By pruning immediately after their bloom period, new growth will be encouraged that will form new flower buds for the next year.

If there are large branches that need to be pruned off, however, it is a good rule of thumb to still prune those branches off in the tree’s dormant period.

Redbud and Dogwood species are commonly planted too close to homes and often need heavy pruning when they start getting too large. By following these tips, your trees will remain beautiful and full of blossoms each year.

If you’d like to learn more, take a look at our guide for pruning flowering cherry trees, which are ornamental trees!

Late Blooming Trees Should Be Pruned In The Dormant Season

Have you noticed trees blooming in the summer or fall? Examples of this could be Golden Raintree, Tulip tree, Sourwood, Crepe myrtle, and Fig trees. It is very common for later blooming species to grow their blossoms on new spring growth.

Pruning your later flowering trees in the dormant season will encourage more light penetration throughout the canopy. This could result in more light reaching fruit-bearing parts of the tree, and more blossoms.

If pruning involves too many cuts on shoots and small branches, it could instead cause excessive sprouting of new shoots, also called ‘suckers’ or ‘water sprouts’. These suckers will instead hinder light penetration and use up valuable nutrients that could have been powering flowers and fruits.

Prune Large Fruit Trees In The Late Winter

Pruning fruit trees is an activity many growers anticipate with joy or dread. Caring for fruit trees can be a lot of work since they need annual pruning to keep them vigorous, healthy, and productive.

While care should be given to pruning fruit trees during their dormant season, additional care should be given if you live in a very cold region. Freeze damage can occur to freshly pruned fruit trees if pruned too early in the winter.

Studies have shown that late-autumn and early winter pruning decreases fruit trees’ cold-hardiness. Since some trees are more fragile than others to cold temperatures, this is an important detail to keep in mind!

Additionally, frost injury on pruned trees appears mainly in bark and wood around the pruning wounds. This suggests that the frost damage was a result of reduced cold hardiness due to wounding.

Many plants can resist freezing due to a plant phenomenon called supercooling, but when the tissues are wounded, ice formation can penetrate the exposed plant cells causing damage and death. 

Pruning your fruit trees in the late winter will protect them from getting damaged from heavy winter freezes. A late winter pruning is best because they will soon be out of the dormant season and will be able to quickly recover from the open cuts during the upcoming growing season.

Orchard workers have reported that dormant-pruned fruit trees increase the percentage of blossoms that set fruit. That is another great reason to prune during the dormant season!

Some orchards do light pruning during the summer, but spray pesticides on the fruit trees that protect it.

It should be added however that cutting back the “water shoots” or “suckers” can be done during the growing season without negative effects. In fact, by removing these shoots, even in the summer, plant energy and nutrients will be redirected to active growth and fruit production of the rest of the tree.

Can I Prune Large Trees During The Growing Months?

Yes, but it is better to remove a small amount of live foliage often, rather than a lot all at once. Read that twice.

Consider the scenario of a large tree with a lot of new growth weighing down a branch that you keep walking into, for example. Simply snip off the ends of the branches. This will remove some weight from the branch and hopefully lift it so it’s not hanging in a walking path.

Light pruning during the summer months shouldn’t cause much harm to your tree if done with a clean blade and so long as you’re not taking off large branches.

Hedging is another example of pruning that can be done in the growing months. However, this is not often a practice done on large trees.

To learn more about tree branches and how they actually grow, take a look at our info guide on why branches don’t grow on the bottom of trees here!

4 Tips For Pruning Large Trees

Getting started with pruning projects can feel overwhelming, especially if the trees haven’t been maintained for several years. Understanding when the best time is to approach the job at hand will help you plan for your success! Read on to learn tips as you begin to plan.

1. Call A Professional To Prune Your Trees

For large, dangerous cuts or trees, call a professional. In these cases, special equipment may be needed, like climbing gear, heavy chainsaws, ropes, and pullies to keep people and structures safe.

2. Understand Pruning Techniques And Methods

There are a variety of pruning cuts, each that will produce different growth responses in plants.

If you’re a visual learner and have a global appreciation for trees, the book Tree Pruning: A Worldwide Photo Guide is filled with instructional photos of trees around the world. The book covers branch anatomy, wildlife, safety, trees, and people, and displays over 150 photographs, with a variety of diagrams.

3. Use The Right Tools

For trees that can be pruned safely by the home gardener, the importance of having the right tools cannot be emphasized enough. The most common tools used are hand shears, lopping shears, pole pruners, and saws.

Hand Shears Or Hand Pruners

There are a few different types of pruners to choose from, bypass, anvil, or ratchet pruners. Bypass pruners are generally preferred, but all types can cut branches up to around ½ inch in diameter.

For the serious gardener needing a pair of quality bypass pruners, we’d recommend the Felco 2 Bypass Pruner and Leather Holster. When taken care of, this quality pruner will serve all your hand pruning needs.

A more economical “look-alike” is the Gonicc 8” Professional Sharp Bypass Pruning Shears. This item can cut up to ¾ inch in diameter tree branches and has a sap groove design to keep the shears from sticking.

While bypass pruners are a great choice for hand pruning, they are more difficult to use on dead wood. For this job, the Felco Felco Pruning Shears are a better choice. This high-performance anvil pruner has a narrow-pointed anvil blade that allows for closer cuts to the trunk than other anvil pruner models.

Ratcheting anvil pruners are a good choice for a gardener who doesn’t have a strong grip strength. Instead of cutting all at once, you will ‘pump’ the handle to ratchet down the blade and eventually make the cut.

Lopping Shears

There are so many choices when it comes to lopping shears. You will want to consider the length of the handle you need, along with how much weight you can handle in a tool and how often you’ll use them, so you know how much to put into it.

Loppers are used for medium-large branches 2 ½ inches or less. We’ll point you to the two types of lopping shears so you can be confident you’re getting a quality product that will support the health of your trees with clean cuts that will heal quickly.

The Felco Pruning Loppers would be considered the “Cadillac” of lopper shears. Notice there are a few different sizes of handles to choose from, all ergonomically designed.

Pole Pruners

Pole pruners are fun to use because with the long pole you’re able to cut 1 ¼ inch branches high above you in the canopy standing from ground level.

It makes a big difference having a quality tool with a sharp blade to do the job well because even though you’re on the ground, it still feels like a balancing act! In those moments, every movement and decision point to cut matters and you will want to get it right!

The Jameson PH-34-PKG Tree Pruner Kit is made in the USA and has the largest cutting capacity on the market with a true 1 ¾ inch hook opening.

Saws

For larger tree branches, you might be considering a power tool. For jobs too big for a pole pruner, but not quite worthy of a powerful chainsaw, consider getting a power pole electric chainsaw.

Scotts Outdoor Power Tools Electric Pole Saw is a good choice for beginners who may be shy around gas-powered tools. This corded, electric pole chainsaw features an automatic oiling system with an oil level window and a tool-free tensioner chain adjustment.

To choose the best gas-powered chainsaw for you to make those bigger cuts with, be sure to measure how big the diameter of the largest branches is. This will help you determine what size bar you will need on your saw.

It is recommended to shop for chainsaws in person because you will want to find a well-balanced machine that is comfortable for you. It needs to be powerful enough to do the job, but light enough for you to handle it safely.

4. Clean Your Blades

Your pruning tools could be carrying something nasty on the blade, even though you can’t see it! It is recommended to always clean your blades between trees to prevent the spread of anything harmful to your other trees.

It is a simple, but effective practice that you should get into the habit of doing. An easy DIY method is to put some ethanol or 70% isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle and squirt some on the blade before moving on to the next tree.

The Integrated Pest Management Department of the University of Missouri states that bleach could also work but will need to be diluted to a 10% solution before applying it to blades. It can be corrosive to blades, so be sure to give a good rinse with water after application.

That’s A Wrap!

Trees add so much health to our lives, we need to be stewards of their health as well. I hope you found some helpful information that will help you determine when you should be pruning your trees and other useful tips.

References

Bedker, Peter J. How to prune trees. Vol. 95, no. 1. Government Printing Office, 2016.

Li, K. T., Lakso, A. N., Piccioni, R., & Robinson, T. (2003). Summer pruning effects on fruit size, fruit quality, return bloom and fine root survival in apple trees. The Journal of Horticultural Science and Biotechnology, 78(6), 755-761.

Norainiratna Badrulhisham, Noriah Othman, Knowledge in Tree Pruning for Sustainable Practices in Urban Setting: Improving Our Quality of Life, Procedia – Social and Behavioral Sciences, Volume 234, 2016, Pages 210-217

Have you ever wondered whether a tree could still thrive without all of the branches that make it appear the way it does? Branches are a significant portion of any tree, and they may just be more crucial than you think. Perhaps the real question is, is there a scenario where a tree could even survive without branches?

The importance of tree branches is widely underestimated. Trees can’t survive without branches as they are essential for a tree to grow and thrive. No branches mean no leaves, which limits the movement of nutrients and the amount of structural support that a tree needs to be healthy.

The reason branches are so foundational in the life and growth of a tree is actually pretty simple so we won’t keep you waiting any longer. Let’s get into it!

Why Can’t Trees Survive Without Branches?

In short, branches hold the key to tree growth. 

The ends of branches have something called a meristem, which we’ll dive into a bit later, and this meristem allows cells to divide and grow to be particularly intense in these regions. 

Without branches, trees could rely on the meristems located toward the lower portion of the tree, near the roots, but this would not provide nearly enough growth for a tree to continue.

Wait a minute, so can trees grow without branches then?

Can Trees Grow Without Branches?

When the majority of a tree’s major limbs, their branches, die or are removed there is quite a small chance the tree will successfully continue growing. 

Texas A&M reminds us that the larger a broken limb is, the less likely a tree is to be able to survive. Additionally, the more branches that are broken or lost, the more unstable the situation for a tree to grow.

At this point, the tree is no longer able to thrive and surviving is barely on the table. 

Why is this? Well, branches are a crucial part of the tree. 

But what if the tree itself grows without branches? 

This would be quite an abnormal situation, but the branches of a tree are so central to a positive development that a tree would not likely live for long without branches to support its internal systems.

A tree without branches is probably a tree that didn’t survive the previous winter.

How Trees Actually Grow Branches

Trees, as individual organisms, can grow in height because of their branches, but how does that really work out?

Branches hold the meristems of a tree, which are essentially the very endpoints of said branches. What are meristems, though? How on earth do they work? A meristem, simply put, is the center of intense activity which catalyzes growth.

How does it do that, you ask?

At the end of the branches is where all new cells of the tree are generated and able to expand. This means that trees essentially grow inward as they grow upward.

It’s important to note that most trees do not grow in the way that humans and animals do, where growth can occur in most parts of ourselves. When it comes to trees, the cells are produced in a limited number of locations.

Cue the meristems, and why branches matter so much!

Why Branches Are Important To Trees

If it wasn’t clear when we talked about branches being a vital component of a tree’s growing process, we’ll say it again:

Branches are a driving factor in whether or not a tree can grow taller and, therefore, at all. Branches are not only structural support for a tree. They don’t only hold leaves or act as a filter for wind and other elements. 

When it comes to the life cycle of a tree, it wouldn’t be possible without the way branches hold the meristems which create all-new cells of the tree. 

Branches are the catalyst for life, quite literally, in the case of a tree.

It’s important to note that some trees actually don’t grow branches near the base of the tree – it just isn’t efficient for them. You can learn more about why branches aren’t growing at the bottom of your tree here.

How To Care For Your Trees To Promote Branch Growth

Now that you know a little more about the extreme importance of branches, let’s talk about how you (note: not a meristem) can still help your tree to grow and stay healthy!

Maintain General Observance Of Your Trees

Keeping an eye on your tree is a very easy habit to get into, and can make such a huge difference. 

By taking the time to check in with your tree (this goes for any plant) you’ll be able to catch anything that may be wrong early on. This can lead to earlier prevention of disease, decay, infestation, and so many other things that could inhibit the health of your tree.

Keep Your Trees Hydrated

Speaking of the things you can do to keep your tree healthy in a preventative way, ensuring there is adequate water is a huge factor that many people seem to overlook. Water is key!

If your tree is not properly hydrated, it will need to focus more of its energy on maintaining its stability and less energy on flourishing and doing the best it can!

If you are someone who is gone a lot, are forgetful, or are just busy, using an irrigation system like this Blumat Drip System could be a lifesaver (and a timesaver, too!).

Fertilize Your Trees

If you are a regular reader or know some things about trees already you’ll know that fertilizer is a key component that is quite often overlooked.

Since we are talking about alllll the trees today, and not just one specific species, we can’t tell you exactly which kind of fertilizer you should be using. We can arm you with the tools to figure it out, though!

By the end of this article, you won’t only understand why branches are so important but you’ll also be able to navigate the world of fertilizer as a confident customer.

Let’s start by explaining the numbers you’ll be looking for on a fertilizer bag:

You’ll see 3 numbers, 10-10-10 for example, which are referred to as an NPK value. This value stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and indicates how different elements are balanced within the fertilizer. 

So, if you see 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 or 20-20-20, you’ll know that this is a fertilizer that is well-balanced and can work on most, if not all, trees.

For your specific species of tree, we suggest looking up the NPK value that is recommended by experts and going from there. 

A great, balanced fertilizer, if you’re looking for something that is a safe bet, for now, is the Miracle-Gro Tree & Shrub Plant Food Spikes that come in a 12-pack and give you a great bang for your buck!

Prune Your Trees

We’ve been talking about how trees can’t do well once they lose their branches, so why on earth is there a section in this article about cutting off those very same branches?

It’s simple, really. General maintenance-based pruning is a whole different story from the loss of branches that takes place and causes a tree to lose its energy, lifeforce, and appearance. 

Pruning in a consistent, but educated manner can actually promote the regrowth of branches when there are too many crowded in one spot, when branches are beginning to decay and/or die, and when the tree itself just needs a little TLC.

If your tree is in trouble, check out our article on saving a tree with stripped bark here!

That’s A Wrap!

Get it? Soon, you’ll be able to take the next step in caring for your tree- whatever that means for you!

Thanks for sticking around to learn about the reasons branches are so important to the success of a tree, how to keep your tree healthy and maintained, and more!

We wish you the best of luck as you continue along your tree journey. May you (and your trees) be successful and see constant growth along the way. 

References

Bertram, J. E. (1989). Size-dependent differential scaling in branches: the mechanical design of trees revisited. Trees, 3(4), 241-253.

Henriksson, J. (2001). Differential shading of branches or whole trees: survival, growth, and reproduction. Oecologia, 126(4), 482-486.

If you have experience with bonfires, campfires, fire pits, or fireplaces, you know some firewood puts off a lot of smoke while others seem to burn with no or very little smoke. Have you ever wanted to know which firewoods burn the cleanest? If so, you’re in luck because we have a list of 9 types of firewood that produce the least amount of smoke!

All firewood is going to produce smoke, but with proper seasoning and an informed wood choice, you can have a relatively smoke-free fire. Oak, ash, beech, and hickory are examples of low-smoke firewood. However, some hardwoods, like eucalyptus, poplar, and elm, produce a lot of smoke when burned. 

No one wants to play musical chairs because a thick stream of choking smoke keeps chasing everyone around the fire. So if you are looking to burn firewood for heat in your fireplace or wood-burning stove, or you want to have visitors over for a campfire in the backyard, make sure you have a stack of good, clean-burning firewood. 

Green Firewood Produces The Most Smoke

For this list, we are assuming all these firewoods have been properly seasoned. It does not matter what kind of wood you burn—with ash being the sole exception to this rule—if your firewood is not seasoned properly, it will probably smoke a lot. 

Heavy smoke is a sign the wood is still wet or still has a lot of sap or pitch in the pores. Seasoning your firewood properly reduces the moisture to about 20%, which is an optimal moisture level for proper burning. 

When firewood is not seasoned properly, it does not burn efficiently.

When you use firewood, it’s imperative to season it especially in a wood furnance. Seasoned firewood is easier to start, burns brighter and hotter, and produces little smoke.

Green firewood will hiss as the water burns out and produces more smoke. Fires with a lot of smoke are inefficient and wasteful.   

Firewoods That Produce The Least Amount of Smoke

Whether you are cutting and splitting your own firewood or buying it from someone, the more knowledge you have about different firewood, the better. Informed decisions will help your fires reach their maximum potential.

If you’d like to learn more about firewood, take a look at our article on the top 10 firewoods (ranked) and how long they last before you make a firewood decision!

If you are looking specifically for the least amount of smoke from your firewood, here is the list. You and your guests will not be playing smoking, musical chairs around the firepit. 

Before we get started, I have to say all firewood is going to produce some smoke when burned. We have compiled a list of firewood, which, when properly seasoned and burned correctly, will produce the least amount of smoke. 

1. Ash

Ash firewood is a great all-around firewood, produces almost no smoke, puts off a moderate amount of heat, and is a quick seasoning wood. You can process this firewood in the spring, and it will be seasoned and ready to burn when the weather gets cool again. 

Some people say ash can also be burned green, but if you do, you will not get an efficient fire and it may smoke more. This is because the flames are using a lot of energy to burn off the excess moisture. With an inefficient burn, you will get more smoke.

The Department of Consumer Products tells us ash burns easily with medium-high heat. Very little smoke or sparks comes from this firewood. Overall, ash is excellent firewood.

One of the major problems with ash firewood is it can be hard to find because of a pest called the Emerald Ash Borer Beetle, which has severely threatened ash trees. This invasive pest, in the larval stage, kills ash trees by eating the tender bark around the tree, thus starving the tree of nutrients.

2. Oak

There are over 600 different varieties of oak trees from around the world! We are focusing on the most prevalent varieties from the US and grouping them into one category. 

If you are looking for a specific variety of oak wood to burn, read our guide on the 10 best oak firewoods here!

Oak may be the king of firewood (in my humble opinion). It is readily available nearly everywhere trees grow, is a dense, compact wood, burns hot, for a long time, and produces very little smoke. Oak can be a bit of a chore to split, especially the larger logs.

But hey, firewood is the only heat source that warms you twice; once when cutting it, another time when you burn it. 

Oak firewood will take a little longer to season than ash, but give it a year, and you should be ready. You will have a hot burning fire that lasts you all night and produces very little smoke. There may be a thin line of white smoke rising into the air, but there will be no black clouds of choking discomfort coming your way.  

To make sure your firewood is properly seasoned, check out this Moisture Meter For Wood. It has built-in calibration and can be used for more than just wood!

You want your firewood to be 20% moisture content or lower before you burn it. Any higher and you will have an inefficient fire that spends a lot of energy trying to burn off the excess moisture.

Specifically talking about oak variaties of firewood, if you didn’t check out our linked list above, you should know that white oak is better than red oak for firewood.

3. Maple

We usually know maple trees for the syrup produced from the sap of the sugar maple. There are several varieties of maple trees, but they are all hardwoods that burn well. Maple trees on the whole are not as dense as oak trees, but they burn similarly. 

The major difference between maple firewood compared to oak is maple burns a little faster, but maple wood smells great when burned. This firewood still burns hot and clean, making it a great choice for all of your wood burning needs. 

4. Applewood

Another great-smelling firewood with little smoke production is applewood. It burns hot and clean, but it can be difficult to find. Once an apple tree is no longer used for apples, the wood is often scooped up for smoking meats. 

Have you ever had applewood smoked bacon or an applewood smoked pork loin? But wait, you may ask, “if applewood doesn’t smoke much, why is it used for smoking meats?” Applewood is soaked in water first before it’s used to smoke meats, so it creates more smoke to impart the unique flavor. 

When seasoned and burned as firewood, applewood is a very clean burning firewood and produces very little smoke.

5. Beech

Beech firewood is a very hot burning firewood sought by those with wood-burning stoves because of the intense heat. Beech wood burns clean with little smoke, and it is said to have a nutty, pleasant smell when burned. 

Beech firewood dries out to a much lower moisture content than most other firewood varieties. On average, when seasoned, beech firewood will dry out to around 10 to 12% moisture. It’s this low water content that makes beech such clean and hot burning firewood.

The only problem is it takes longer for beech to season well. It needs at least a year to season enough to burn but to get the most benefit out of your beech firewood, season it for two years. 

6. Black Locust

The black locust tree is not a well-known tree unless you are well versed in wood varieties or do a lot of woodwork. This fast-growing tree makes for excellent firewood though. It burns very hot and produces very little smoke.

Among the contenders on this list, the black locust is one of the best when it comes to the least amount of smoke. 

This firewood needs at least a year to season, but to reap the benefits, a year and a half to two years is optimal. When black locust is seasoned longer, the moisture content will go below 20%. You will get a very lean smoking, hot fire, which will burn all night long. 

Black locust firewood also has little to no smell when burned. So if you don’t particularly like the smell of burning wood, this is an excellent firewood choice for you.

7. Hickory

Hickory firewood often outperforms oak when compared side by side, especially if you are looking for fragrant-smelling firewood. The only reason I would choose oak firewood over hickory is oak is easier to find and typically will season slightly faster than hickory. 

Hickory burns hotter than oak, not as high as black locust, but very similar. As for smoke output, hickory is pretty on par with black locust because both produce very little smoke. Hickory, when burned, smells like a backyard barbeque and brings back all those wonderful memories. 

It’s a very popular wood for smoking meats and cooking on because people want the smoky flavor. However, when used as firewood, the smoke content is quite low. You’ll get a great fragrance from it, but it won’t choke you out of the campsite.

Winner winner, smoked chicken dinner! 

8. Black Walnut

In North America, there are three popular varieties of walnut trees, but the best overall for low smoke when burned is the black walnut. This wood is a little difficult to find for firewood because it is sought after as furniture building wood. Black walnut trees also hate shade and typically grow in bright sunny patches by themselves, so you will not find a large grove of black walnut trees. 

If you find a mature black walnut tree, you can most likely get a full cord of wood or more from it. As a firewood, black walnut is an excellent choice. It burns pretty hot, for a long time, and produces very little smoke. It smokes similarly to oak. 

Black walnut may smoke more than hickory or black locust. Even so, this firewood still produces so little smoke, you’ll hardly notice it.

The walnut is one of the slowest burning woods to burn in your fire. You can view our full top 10 list of the slowest burning firewoods here!

9. Osage Orange

Osage orange trees are easy to identify from the large, green, wrinkled fruit they bear in the summer months. They were planted in residential areas many years ago and are found now in 39 states. Osage orange wood is used for bows and furniture, but when the lumber cannot be used for these products, it makes for great firewood.

Osage orange is a heavy, very dense wood that burns exceptionally hot, and creates very little smoke. It is an excellent choice for wood-burning stoves when it can be found. There is one problem with Osage orange as firewood though, it sparks… a Lot!

Since it creates an Independence Day level show of sparks, it’s not recommended to burn Osage orange in the fireplace. In a wood-burning stove, you do not have to worry about sparks as much until you open the door to put more wood in. Outside, make sure you have a large fire ring to handle the sparks.

As far as smoking, this wood burns so hot and efficiently, there is little smoke to speak of. You will get a show because of the constant sparking, crackling this wood creates, but you won’t have to worry about smoke at all. 

Other Reasons You Have Smokey Firewood

Let’s say you are using wood from this list in your fire, but you are still getting heavy clouds of smoke. What could be the problem? There could be a few reasons your hardwood firewood is smoking everyone out, such as wet wood or a suffocating fire. 

The Fire Is Not Getting Enough Air

If your logs are piled together tightly, you could have a hard time lighting them. Once it is burning, you might end up still getting thick clouds of smoke rolling off your fire. When a fire is not properly “breathing”, it can smoke because the wood is not burning cleanly.

When you start a fire or when you add logs to an existing fire, make sure there is plenty of space around the logs so that it burns efficiently. 

By stacking your wood either in a teepee shape or alternating logs like a log cabin, you let enough air flow between the logs so your fire burns hot and efficiently, reducing smoke.

When you start your fire, there is often a good amount of smoke at the start because the fire has not got hot and efficient. This also depends on what you use for fire starter or kindling. These materials may be softwoods like pine, which usually put off a lot of smoke. 

If you are using yard debris like pine cones, pine needles, or leaves to start your fire, they could still be wet. This will cause heavy smoke before you get a solid bed of hot coals built up. 

Firewood is Wet Because of Weather

We already went over green, unseasoned firewood, but did it rain a night or two ago? Was your firewood covered with a tarp or plastic sheeting keeping moisture in? If either of these happened, you may be trying to burn wet wood. It’s just the same as trying to burn green wood. 

Wet wood from bad weather will smoke and smolder as the fire fights to remove moisture from the wood. Before burning your wood, use your trusty moisture meter to make sure you don’t have wet wood. 

That’s A Wrap!

That does it for this article. Now you have a long list of firewood that produces very little smoke. Hardwoods are the best for fires, but not all hardwood varieties are equal.

If you are looking for firewood that produces the least amount of smoke, you can’t go wrong with oak, hickory, maple, applewood, ash, and the others on this list. 

We hope this article has helped you find the right firewood for your needs!

References:

Todd, John Jeffrey, and J. Good. Wood-smoke handbook: Woodheaters, firewood and operator practice. Environment Australia, 2002.

Olsson, Maria, Jennica Kjällstrand, and Göran Petersson. “Specific chimney emissions and biofuel characteristics of softwood pellets for residential heating in Sweden.” Biomass and Bioenergy 24.1 (2003): 51-57.

Schueftan, Alejandra, and Alejandro D. González. “Reduction of firewood consumption by households in south-central Chile associated with energy efficiency programs.” Energy Policy 63 (2013): 823-832.

Njenga, M. A. R. Y., et al. “Trees on farms could satisfy household firewood needs.” Tree Farmers Mag. Afr 33 (2017): 20-23.