Plants

It can be difficult to downright impossible to grow certain plants under the canopy of pine trees. Grasses struggle and end up wilting away, plants look sickly and fade to dried-up husks of regret, so is there anything you can plant under pine trees? 

Pine trees have many roots that compete fiercely for water and nutrients, making it difficult to plant under them. The best plants that can thrive under a pine tree include bleeding hearts, astilbe, hostas, creeping phlox, daylilies, ferns, wild ginger, daffodils, gardenia, azaleas, and hydrangeas.

You won’t have to amend the soil or fight the acidity that is caused by pine needles (that’s actually a myth by the way, and we will discuss that soon) to get plants to grow under pine trees. Keep reading and we will offer the best plants you can plant under your pine tree!

Let’s Dispel The Myth Of Acidic Pine Needles

We’ve all been told that pine needles are the bane of a gardener’s existence because of the extreme acid they contain and how they contaminate the soil. I believed it for most of my gardening life as well, but it has recently been revealed that it’s actually a myth. 

Yes, pine needles are acidic…while they are attached to the tree, and that may be where this misinformation started. According to the Oregon State University, fresh, attached pine needles contain a pH between 3.2-3.8, which is pretty acidic. Neutral pH on the scale is 7.0. When the pine needles break down, the acid is broken down as well and will not alter soil pH.

But once pine needles drop, the acidity in them begins to decrease as well. By the time the needles are brown and dried out the acidity is nearly gone, and while they are being broken down into organic matter, microbes further reduce the acidity in them.

So go ahead and mulch with pine needles. They are a great, renewable resource that helps to hold in moisture and reduce weeds and they add nourishment to the soil as they break down.

Needles Don’t Cause Acidic Soil Under Pine Trees

You did a soil test under your pine tree and it was proven to be acidic, so it must be true that the needles altered the pH of the soil. Pine trees do better in acidic soil so they will seek out what they need.

If pine seeds drop into an area of basic soil, chances are they won’t germinate, or if they do, the tree won’t grow well and may eventually pass.

Pine trees will start in an area of already acidic soil, so they don’t have to change the pH level themselves. Besides, as the needles fall and break down, the acidity inside them gets altered, so it would really be difficult to lower the pH with the needles.

Trying to change the acidity in the soil with pine needles would be like trying to change the color of the Amazon river by dropping in a few bottles of food coloring. In theory, it could happen, but it would take a ton of coloring and many years.

In essence, the soil around pine trees is acidic because that’s the way it was when the tree started. Why then, is it so hard to plant anything underneath pine trees?

Pine Trees Are Greedy For Nutrients

Pine tree growing small male cones

The reason most plants won’t grow underneath pine trees is because the area is low in nutrients, stays very shady, and is typically very dry. Not to mention, if you don’t regularly rake the needles out, they form a natural barrier to keep weeds and other plants from establishing themselves.

The roots of pine trees are quite greedy and will quickly soak up any water and nutrients that actually makes it through the thick canopy. This brings us to another reason nothing will grow under pine trees.

The needles are perfect for diverting rainwater out to the drip edge of the tree. In a thick canopy, very little water will actually make it down to the ground. Many plants can’t survive in such a dry environment.

When searching for plants that can grow under pine trees you need to look for plants that are shade loving, and drought tolerant. They also need to have shallow roots that won’t compete with pine tree roots. That’s a tall order, but there are a lot of plants that actually fit the bill.

You may notice that your pine will stop growing at some time in it’s life. In many cases, the main reason for your pine to stop growing is because it is competing with other plants.

Best Plants To Grow Under Your Pine Tree

Turf grasses have a hard time underneath most trees because of the shade, and they typically require a lot of water to keep them healthy. While it can be possible to grow certain types under pines, constant watering can have adverse effects on the pine tree.

Pine trees, once they have established themselves, are drought tolerant and typically don’t need extra water. In fact, too much watering can lead to root fungus and root rot which can be fatal to them.

Bleeding Hearts

Hardiness Zones2 – 8
Bloom TimeEarly spring
Average Size3’ by 4’
Water NeedsKeep moist by adding mulch

Bleeding hearts are shade loving herbaceous plants that put on a pink or red show of heart-shaped flowers with white drops at the bottom. Making them look like their namesake. They bloom in early spring and start dying back in summer.

When all color has been drained out of them, you can cut back the dried, woody stems. Bleeding hearts are perennials so they will return year after year. You can add other plants that will start to bloom after bleeding hearts start to wilt such as astilbe and hostas.

If you’re looking for Pink Bleeding Hearts, you can get them here!

Astilbe

Bright pink flowers of astilbe among green leaves. Selective Focus
Hardiness Zones3 – 9
Bloom TimeSpring to summer
Average Size3’ by 3’
Water NeedsRegular watering, but some varieties are more drought tolerant

These perennials are favorites for shade gardens. With their clusters of tiny flowers rising up to look like fuzzy peaks, and the contrasting dark green foliage, what’s not to love about astilbe?

These flowers eventually clump together and will need to be separated every three to four years. They like acidic soil but will need some extra watering to keep them healthy. Pine needle mulch will help keep the soil moist and add extra nutrients for happy astilbe.

These flowers show up in late spring and tend to stick around until mid to late summer and attract butterflies. Deadheading does not encourage new flowers, so it’s best to leave them until the entire plant has died back.

Though they prefer shady areas, for the best flower blooms they do need some early sunlight, approximately two hours worth. Flowers show up better after the second year’s growth, so don’t get discouraged if the first year of astilbe growth looks a little lacking.

For an assortment of this shade-loving plant, check out this Mixed Astilbe Value Bag!

Hostas

Hardiness Zones3 – 9
Bloom TimeSummer
Average SizeVaries
Water NeedsMinimal once established

Hostas are rock stars of the plant world once they are established and as long as they don’t get a lot of direct sunlight. They mound up with attractive foliage ranging from colors of white, yellow, bright green, blue, or variegated.

In the summer they send up stalks of bell-shaped flowers that attract butterflies and hummingbirds. They will die back in late fall or early winter when the temperatures drop. Then they come back bigger and better next year.

You’ll eventually need to thin hostas out because they will constantly spread out and crowd themselves out, but this is easily done.

Hostas need damp soil until they are established, then they become drought resistant and nearly carefree. You’ll only need to cut them back when the foliage all turns brown to prevent fungal infections.

If you’d like to get started growing, check out these Mixed Hosta Perennials (6 Pack of Bare Roots)!

Creeping Phlox

Hardiness Zones3 -9
Bloom TimeMid to late spring
Average Size5” by 2’
Water NeedsMinimal

Creeping phlox is a ground cover that explodes with a profusion of small flowers in spring. These fragrant flowers attract a plethora of butterflies and honeybees that will be happy you planted them.

Phlox is native to the eastern United States and is especially prolific in the Appalachian mountains. It is a spreading plant that stays low to the ground and requires very little maintenance and little water to stay happy.

Depending on how severe your winters are, phlox can often keep some of the green colors all year long, making it an appealing choice for ground cover.

For live phlox plants check out, Purple Beauty Creeping Phlox. Though this one has purple flowers, there are several different varieties available here!

Daylilies

A couple of bright vibrant yellow in full bloom daylilies growing in a cluster alongside the road on a sunny day in summer
Hardiness Zones4 – 9
Bloom TimeSummer to fall
Average Size2’ by 3’
Water NeedsMinimal once established

Daylilies are another extremely hardy plant that can withstand most soil types and can grow well in full sun to mostly shade. They are drought tolerant and they come in nearly every color and combination you can think of except blue—insert sad, frowny face here.

Daylilies start sending out spikes of green foliage in early spring, and start to bloom in summer. After the flowers have come and gone, the mounding long, green leaves continue until winter.

They prefer rich soil and average humidity, but they are amazingly adaptive and will grow almost anywhere. They will multiply rapidly and will need to be separated every few years or so, but with just a few starter plants you can soon have daylilies all over your yard.

They attract butterflies, and rabbits don’t seem to care for them. There aren’t many pests that bother them, and the amazing array of colors available will really accent the previously barren area underneath your pine trees.

You can get started with mounds of low-maintenance daylilies here with this Yellow Daylily Stella De Oro!

Ferns

Hardiness Zones2 – 8
Bloom TimeNo flowers
Average Size4” to 3’ by 1’ to 4’
Water NeedsMoist soil

There are many different types of ferns that are hardy for outdoor applications. Some are even evergreen, but some of the best that will grow under the dry canopies of pine trees include the common oak fern, and Lady fern.

They both are drought tolerant, and will grow well in acidic soils. The lady fern will grow up to three feet tall in most shade gardens. It is a slow-growing deciduous fern that drops its leaves after the first frost.

The lady fern will grow and spread, though it will take some time for it to really branch out. It’s an attractive ground cover that will grow well underneath pine trees, especially with a rich, loamy soil.

The oak fern is smaller than the lady fern but accentuates other plants underneath your pine tree. Ferns tend to need more moisture than most other plants that we have on this list, but with a good mulch and organic soil mixed in, they should grow well and offer a beautiful, feathery foliage show.

Wild Ginger

Hardiness Zones3 – 7
Bloom TimeSpring to summer
Average Size6” tall, spreads
Water NeedsDrought tolerant

Wild ginger works great in slightly acidic soil under plenty of shade. It’s a spreading ground cover that produces thick heart, or kidney shaped leaves. They don’t grow well from seed, but the rhizomes can be split and easily propagated.

Wild ginger does produce small, hard to see flowers that attract butterflies. While you won’t plant it for showy flowers, it is a great, low-growing ground cover that will work well underneath the thick canopy of pine trees.

Daffodils/Jonquils

Hardiness Zones4 – 8
Bloom TimeSpring
Average Size6” to 12” by 6” to 30”
Water NeedsDrought tolerant

Daffodils work the best along the edge of the dripline because they do better with more sun. If you are planting a multi-season garden underneath your pine tree, these early bloomers will be a great, vibrant start.

Daffodils, or jonquils as they are sometimes called, are easy to grow flowers that return year after year. About all you need to do with them is plant them and let them do their thing. There are not many animals that will eat them because they are mildly poisonous if consumed.

During the growing season, they may need a little bit of water, but after they are established, there is little care that daffodils require. After a few years you’ll need to separate some of the clumps to keep them healthy and spreading, but about all you’ll need to do to keep them happy.

Get an early start to spring color with this bunch of Daffodil Bulbs for Spring Planting – 25 Bulbs.

Dwarf Crested Irises

Hardiness Zones4 – 10
Bloom TimeMid spring
Average Size6” by 12”
Water NeedsDrought resistant

These irises can create a great spring and summer ground cover. They produce thin, long leaves and rounded stalks with bright blue flowers in spring. They spread easily via rhizomes, but are not invasive.

They can grow in almost any soil pH as long as it’s not extremely basic or acidic. They prefer sun but will still acclimate and do well in shady areas. They don’t produce deep roots so there won’t be much competition between them and pine trees for water and nutrition.

Dwarf crested irises don’t need much water after they are established, but they do well with a layer of mulch after they are placed. Separate them to keep them healthy, and to spread these irises to other areas.

If irises sound like the flowers you’d like to plant under your pine trees check out this 5 Dwarf Crested Iris.

White Trillium 

White trillium growing under a tree
Hardiness Zones4 – 8
Bloom TimeMid spring to summer
Average Size1’ by 2’
Water NeedsHumid soil

Trilliums grow upright and will eventually spread slowly if left on their own. They produce showy, white, three-petaled leaves amid bold green foliage. The trillium will produce one flower per stalk and then it produces a seed capsule.

They don’t have many pests that bother them. They are not needy flowers and will grow well in shade, light drought, and go dormant in mid to late summer.

Ground covers like creeping phlox and wild ginger are great companion plants because the ground covers will fill in around trilliums while they grow taller and produce bigger blooms. 

Trilliums can withstand the acidic soil that pine trees seem to cherish, and they look great. If you’d like, you can get started with these 5 White Trillium Bulbs!

Gardenia

Hardiness Zones7 – 11
Bloom TimeSpring to summer
Average Size3’ by 4’ (dwarf gardenia)
Water NeedsHumid

If you’re looking for an evergreen shrub to accent your evergreen pine tree, then gardenias might be what you’re looking for. They can be small shrubs, or some can be large trees, so before you purchase them to plant underneath your pine trees, make sure you have the dwarf variety.

In spring through summer gardenias produce very fragrant, brilliantly white flowers. They love acidic soils just like pine trees, so these two plants should get along pretty well.

Gardenias don’t do well in colder climates as they are a tropical plant, and they have higher water needs. In the dry summer months to keep them healthy, gardenias do well with a light misting.

They can handle shade well, especially in very hot climates. To keep your gardenia blooming for as long as possible, remove brown, dried up flowers. Get Southern Living ScentAmazing, Gardenia shrubs here to get started growing under your pine trees.

Azaleas

Hardiness Zones3 – 9
Bloom TimeSpring to summer
Average Size3’ by 3’ to 6’
Water NeedsDrought tolerant

Azalea bushes are acid loving little shrubs that produce bright, showy flowers in mid spring, and sometimes in autumn depending on the variety. They don’t do well in full so planting them underneath pine trees is a great way to keep them healthy.

They prefer a soil that is at least 6.0 on the pH scale and need a moist bed. Mulching them with the accumulated pine needles that drop is a great way to keep the soil moist for azaleas.

The roots on azaleas are shallow so they won’t compete too much with pine trees for moisture and nutrients. As long as they are not left in full sun, and have plenty of acidic soil, azaleas will be great companion plants for your pine trees.

When pruning azaleas it’s recommended to keep the pruning light. Heavy pruning of azaleas can affect flower production for a few years. Since they are slow-growing bushes, and pruning can mess up flower production, most people just let azaleas grow how they wish.

Add some Encore Azalea Autumn Royalty with low growing bulbs for a beautiful landscape under your pine tree.

Hydrangeas

Hardiness Zones3 – 9
Bloom TimeSummer to fall
Average Size3’ by 3’
Water NeedsMoist soil

Hydrangeas are easy to grow, full, lush shrubs with mounds of flowers and bright, big leaves. They can grow in nearly any soil type and the flowers come in colors such as blue, pink, green, white, red, or purple.

In the summer hydrangeas produce big, puffy balls of papery-looking flowers that attract butterflies. They can make great show pieces or be grouped together to make mounding borders.

To keep them blooming through the fall, cut off the flower clusters. You don’t have to wait until they are drying up either. You can cut off vibrant stalks of flowers to keep inside as a centerpiece until it dries up.

The hydrangea will continue to pump out more flowers. Just be mindful of cutting them into the fall as you don’t want new growth getting hit with a frost.

The only trimming needed for these shrubs is to cut back dead wood. When stalks are dried out, hollow shafts cut them back to keep the bush healthy.

With a few early spring blooming flowers, hydrangeas, and ground cover plants, your pine trees will be a gorgeous showpiece all season long.

Lily Of The Valley

Beautiful muguet on the spring sun, macro view
Hardiness Zones3 – 8
Bloom TimeSpring
Average Size12” by 12”
Water NeedsMoist

Lily of the valley is nearly a perfect plant to situate under your pine trees. It loves full shade, especially in hotter climates, grows well with acidic soil, and will spread readily when these conditions are met.

Many gardeners will plant these lilies under trees and areas where it’s difficult to grow other plants. They only need to be planted about six inches in the ground so they won’t disturb your pine tree’s roots.

Once this plant is established it needs little care. Just make sure it doesn’t dry out and you won’t have to do much else except spread out heavy clumps of them for better health.

Lily of the valley grows so well in some places that it is considered invasive. The European version is considered an invasive species in the midwest U.S. so keep this in mind when planting them. They will do great underneath your pine trees, but they might also do too well in the rest of your landscape.

If you want to plant some bulbs and forget about them, try out these 4 Sweet Dutch Lily of The Valley Perennial Flower Bulbs. They will spread out and cover that barren shady patch in no time.

What About Raised Beds Under Pine Trees?

Some homeowners have taken to building raised beds around the bottom of their trees with reasonable success. While these look great and seem to offer a perfect solution, raised beds are likely shortening the life of the tree. 

Adding in raised beds or even covering the ground with several inches of soil can smother the tree’s roots. A tree sets out their roots at a certain depth for a reason; it’s best for the tree for ultimate survival. When you alter that environment, it can be detrimental to the tree.

A tree has shallow or deep roots because that’s where it grows the best. When you add raised beds, heavy rocks or pavers, or add more soil to cover the exposed roots, you could be limiting airflow to the roots.

Sometimes when you are growing a pine in a container or bed, it will have special soil requirements. Learn more in our article on the 5 best soils for pine trees in containers!

The tree can grow new roots farther out to make up for that, because Mother Nature has a way of surviving, but these new roots could actually weaken the tree. Weak trees are vectors for insect invasions and illnesses, thus shortening the lives of the trees in the long run.

Don’t Plant Too Close To The Pine Tree’s Trunk

You want to disturb the tree’s roots as little as possible, and the area directly at the base of the tree is considered a “no plant zone.” It’s best not to plant anything until you are three to four feet away from the trunk of the tree.

Planting too close under the trunk of your tree can cause root issues, and can even lead to your tree rotting. In these cases, you may have to cut down your pine.

It’s best to just mulch out from the base of the trunk, but don’t let soil additions or mulch actually touch the bark at the base of the tree. Leave a good six inches at least from the base of the tree open, then mulch three to four feet out.

The reason being is the tree’s bark isn’t equipped to handle the extra moisture or able to fight off fungus like the roots are.

The pine needles that fall every year are a great way to mulch your pine trees. It’s natural, looks good, and you don’t have to go out and buy anything extra. You can also use these needles to mulch around your new plants as well to help keep the soil moist for those plants that need extra water, without making the soil too wet for the pine tree.

The University of New Hampshire offers a list of benefits to pine needle mulch including, its breathability, it doesn’t compact like wood mulch, the pine needles don’t wash out from heavy rain, they’re free, and help keep soil temperatures cool. 

If you are more interested in what type of plants don’t go well with pine trees. You should check out our article about 23 plants not to grow under a pine tree!

That’s All For Now!

If you have pine trees in your yard, don’t despair because it seems nothing will grow underneath them. You just need to find plants that prefer shade over bright sun, can handle some acidity, and don’t have to compete with the pine tree for water and nutrients.

You can use ground covers like creeping phlox, flower bulbs like daffodils, or lily of the valley, or small acidic loving shady plants like hydrangeas or azaleas. With a little bit of work, the barren soil under your pine trees will be lush, colorful, and vibrant.

References

Coutts, M. P., and J. J. Philipson. “TOLERANCE OF TREE ROOTS TO WATERLOGGING: I. SURVIVAL OF SITKA SPRUCE AND LODGEPOLE PINE.” New Phytologist 80.1 (1978): 63-69.

Abdul Halim, Nur Sa’adah, et al. “Influence of soil amendments on the growth and yield of rice in acidic soil.” Agronomy 8.9 (2018): 165.

Cochran, Diana R., and Amy Fulcher. “Type and rate of plant growth regulator influence vegetative, floral growth, and quality of Little Lime™ hydrangea.” HortTechnology 23.3 (2013): 306-311.

Your backyard oasis looks like an absolute paradise—it must be because of the palm tree! You can bring even more of a tropical flair to your yard by planting other species at its base. But before you begin, you should know there are several species that you must NOT plant under your palm tree!

Palm trees grow best in warm climates. They also have a delicate balance of nitrogen and potassium requirements. This means many plants, including pansies, violets, snapdragons, nemesia, diascia, petunias, grass, broccoli, cabbage, turnips, collards, and kale, do not grow well under palm trees.

Let’s talk about what palm trees need to thrive and why some plants just will not get along with your palm. But first, is a palm tree even the type of plant we thought it was?

Is A Palm Tree Even Considered a Tree?

A palm tree is more closely related to grass than it is to other species of trees!

The inside of a palm tree trunk is made of spongy, flexible material that enables it to withstand powerful windstorms. Instead of growing outward branches, it produces long leaves that come from a central bud. 

Contrast that with what we would traditionally consider a “tree”: an inflexible, wooden trunk with branches and leaves.

Palm leaves are called “fronds”. Fronds grow in a ring-like pattern around the center, similar to how petals form on a flower.

As a palm tree grows taller and new fronds erupt from the top of the tree, the fronds on the bottom will die. This creates a layer of dead leaves along the trunk known as a “frond skirt”.

Unlike the leaves on a deciduous tree, which drop once autumn arrives, a palm tree’s frond skirt will remain in place unless it is cut away. 

(Contact a professional if you would like to remove the frond skirt from your palm tree because it can be deceptively heavy!)

If palms are so different from traditional trees, why do we call them trees?

It helps to remember that scientists and specialists in other trades will frequently categorize objects differently from one another. Let’s use tomatoes as an example.

A scientist would consider a tomato to be a fruit because it is the seed-bearing part of the plant. A chef, on the other hand, would call a tomato a vegetable due to how it pairs with savory dishes.

Both definitions are correct: it just depends on the purpose of the category.

Palms are considered trees because that is the role they play in our yards, gardens, landscaping, and the wild.

Palm trees are tall and provide shade and beauty. They help prevent soil erosion with their roots. Palm trees also turn carbon dioxide into oxygen and can live for decades if treated correctly.

Just like any other tree, it would be a shame to leave the space underneath it empty. Just don’t make the mistake of settling for any old plant!

What Does A Palm Tree Need To Grow Successfully?

Manicured desert landscaping including palm trees, plants, flowers

Plants that grow underneath a palm tree must not interfere with what the palm needs to be healthy: the proper amount of water, neutral soil pH, correct nutrient balances, and temperatures above 40º F.

Water: Just as with other species of trees, there are many subspecies, or types, of palm trees. Some are adapted to climates with less water (such as a desert) while others crave constant humidity and more frequent rainfall.

One thing they all have in common is a need for the proper amount of water. Make sure neighboring plants are not stealing it!

The type of soil can also affect how often you water. Sandy soils do not hold on to moisture in the same way that clay-based soils do, meaning that you would need to water more often.

Keep in mind too that the soil needs to dry out in between waterings for a palm tree to be healthy. The roots create a large anchor by forming into the shape of a ball in dry soil. This is one of a palm tree’s secrets to surviving hurricanes!

If you’re curious about growing palm trees in the desert, learn more here: 12 Trees That Can Grow In The Desert (And How They Do It)

Soil pH: Palm trees do best with neutral soil, meaning a reading that is between 6.5-7.5 on a pH scale. You will need to test your soil to know the pH for certain. Although some outliers can handle extremes, palm trees generally prefer soil that is neither too acidic nor too alkaline.

Learn more about acid and alkaline soil here: What pH Level Do Trees Actually Like For Best Growth?

Nutrient Balances: Just like you need the proper nutrients to grow big and strong, so does your palm tree! The University of Florida identified the most common palm tree nutrient problems as (1) potassium deficiency and (2) nitrogen overdose. 

You will likely need to fertilize your palm tree to keep it in its best health. There are several ways you can accomplish this.

Miracle-Gro Shake ‘N Feed Palm Plant Food is available in 8-pound bags. One application will feed your palm tree for up to three months! This plant food is specially formulated to balance a palm tree’s high potassium need and lower nitrogen appetite. 

Another method is to use Jobe’s Fern & Palm Fertilizer Spikes, which come in packs of 30. The number of spikes you stick into the ground around the tree depends on the size of your palm tree.

(Bigger tree= more fertilizer needed!) It’s recommended that you replace the spikes every 60 days.

Temperatures: It’s not a coincidence that you only see palm trees in warmer climates. Palms cannot tolerate freezing temperatures for long periods.

What Is The Coldest Temperature A Palm Tree Can Tolerate?

Researchers from Columbia University have determined the absolute “boundary line” of where palm trees can reproduce in the wild is if the average temperature of the area’s coldest month is above 36°F. 

This can lead to some unexpected, odd, and even humorous situations. For instance, palm trees have been spotted at the base of the Swiss Alps!

Yes, those famous, snow-covered mountains! Scientists have found that the temperature in those spots rarely dips below freezing, so palm trees can propagate. (How did they get to the Alps? They originated from an “escaped” potted plant.) 

The theory is that more and more places will be able to grow palm trees successfully as the climate changes.

For more information about growing palm trees in colder areas, check out our article: Here’s Why You Can’t Grow Tropical Palm Trees In New York

Research published in Scientific Report Journal describing global fossil distribution can even give us a glimpse of what ancient climates were like. Since most species of palm tree struggle with temperatures below 40° F (5° C), the presence of palm tree fossils is powerful evidence of a mild winter.

In general, palm trees prefer USDA Hardiness Zones of 8-13 (although individual species may vary). These are places where the temperature rarely (if ever) falls below 32° in the winter.

If the climate is right, palm trees will grow there. That’s why you’ll find them in the United States in places like Arizona, California, Florida, and Louisiana. 

Even Utah, which boasts of “The Greatest Snow on Earth” on its license plate, has palm trees growing in the southern part of the state!

Learn more about growing palm trees in unexpected places in our piece: 5 Reasons New Orleans Has Palm Trees (Plus Growing Tips)

What NOT To Grow Under Your Palm Tree

Sun shining on beautiful florida showcase home. Palm trees and other greenery.

Now that we understand a palm tree’s preferences regarding water, soil pH, nutrients, and temperature, let’s talk about what plants will interfere with these balances. Here are 17 plants NOT to plant under a palm tree.

Pansies 

The University of Florida recommends these little flowers to residents as a placeholder in their garden when the weather gets cold. They are not recommended for hot weather.

Generally, pansies prefer much cooler temperatures than your palm tree will want. Choose a flower from a more tropical location for a happier tree.

Violets

“Roses are red

Violets are blue.

If you want a happy palm 

This plant will not do!”

Like pansies, violets prefer cooler temperatures. If your yard has the warm temperatures your palm tree likes, then sadly, violets will not do well in your yard.

Snapdragons

Snapdragons are a classic in flower gardens all over the world. However, they are not a classic friend to palm trees. Snapdragons wilt when the temperature gets too hot.

If you want a cottage-style flower garden, placing it underneath your palm tree is the wrong location.

Nemesia

This flower, nicknamed “Cape Snapdragon”, is native to South Africa and is gaining popularity in North America. Don’t be tricked into thinking the yellow color means heat, summer, and warmth, though.

Nemesia is a springtime bedding plant and prefers cooler temperatures.

Diascia

Diascia is a cousin of Nemesia and Snapdragons. I suppose you could say cold blood runs in the family because diascia is yet another flower that finds a balmy tropical paradise to be too warm.

Even if the temperature didn’t matter, palm trees and diascia still wouldn’t get along. Diascia prefers more acidic soil than a palm tree will tolerate.

Petunias

Petunias are another classic flower that you will find in flower gardens from North to South. They love warm weather. 

So why don’t petunias get along with palm trees? Probably because petunias do well in rough places.

Part of why petunias are so popular is because they can easily grow in poor, acidic soils. Most palm trees prefer something close to the middle of the pH scale. 

Grass

I know, I know. You’ve seen grass growing under a palm tree. Perhaps there’s even grass growing under your palm tree right now. Maybe it even appears to be fine. But hear me out—growing grass underneath your palm tree is horrific for the health of the tree. 

Grass requires high levels of nitrogen to be healthy. This is simply too much for your palm tree to handle.

In fact, it’s recommended that you use different fertilizers on your palm tree than you would use on your grass. Consider removing the sod from under your palm tree and replacing it with plants that would make better companions to your tree.

Broccoli

Broccoli loves soil with high nitrogen levels. As you may recall, one of the most common nutritional issues in palm trees is nitrogen overdose. Broccoli and palm trees have opposite nitrogen needs. 

In addition, broccoli does better with cooler temperatures. The part of the broccoli that we eat is the flower buds. Broccoli is harvested before the flowers bloom. If broccoli gets too warm, it will “bolt”, or flower, rendering it useless for eating. It’s better to keep broccoli and palm trees in different gardens.

Cabbage

Cabbage is a hardy, cool-season crop. It comes in many colors and can look decorative (even though it is primarily grown for food).

Aside from their temperature differences though, cabbage and palm trees have different nutritional needs. Cabbage needs high levels of nitrogen to grow healthy. Plant it elsewhere.

Turnips 

Turnips are a root vegetable that people seem rather polarized about: they either love it or they hate it. As far as turnips are concerned, palm trees stand firmly in the “hate” category.

First of all, turnips grow underground. This would harm your palm tree’s root system similarly to carrots and potatoes. Turnips also have high nitrogen needs. This would render the soil desolate to the palm tree.

Collards

Collards are the loose leaf cousins of cabbage. They are also a palm tree’s worst nightmare. You see, collards and palm trees have completely different nitrogen and temperature needs. 

Collards need high nitrogen and cooler temperatures. As you can probably imagine, your palm tree would wilt under these conditions.

To make it worse, however, collards also have high potassium requirements. This is the same nutrient palm trees already have a risk of being deficient in. This is a terrible combination.

Kale

Kale might be trendy to put in smoothies, but it’s a terrible mix to plant it under palm trees.

Kale lives in cool temperatures, has high nitrogen needs, and will steal all the potassium from the soil (leaving none for your palm tree). Try a different plant.

Potatoes

Potatoes prefer acidic soil, but that’s not the only area in which they will clash with the neutral soil-loving palm tree. Palm trees have shallow roots that are extremely close to the surface of the dirt. 

Potatoes form tubers deep in the ground. If the potatoes take root, it will harm the fragile roots of your palm. 

Potatoes also require high nitrogen levels, something that would hurt your palm tree. Pass the potatoes, please!

Carrots

Just like a palm tree, carrots enjoy neutral soil. However, carrots face a similar predicament to potatoes. Since carrots must grow deep into the earth to form a healthy crop, they cannot grow in the tangled web of surface-level roots under a palm tree.

Plant your carrots in a spot where they have enough room.

Lettuce

Lettuce is a cool weather crop. It prefers to grow in temperatures that would cause a palm tree to grow poorly. In addition, lettuce needs direct sunlight to form its leaves correctly.

The filtered light from under a palm tree will not be sufficient for the lettuce to grow properly.

Apples

It might sound kind of silly to plant a tree under a tree, but layering shorter and taller trees is something that naturally happens in a forest. It can look beautiful in your yard, too! Why not plant an apple tree under your palm tree?

The biggest conflict is that apple trees and palm trees both need high amounts of potassium. This nutritional competition would end badly for both trees.

In addition, many people prefer to eat crisp apples. Unless apples have gone through a period of frost before harvest, they are often mushy. The best apples grow in cooler climates, not the tropical areas palm trees grow in.

Trees aren’t necessarily an awful choice, though! If you’re interested in planting another palm tree in your garden, check out how to do it correctly in our piece: 10 Best Steps For Transporting Palm Trees (And How To Do It)

Raspberries

If you’ve ever gone raspberry picking, it can feel like heaven to pop a juicy, sweet red berry in your mouth on a hot summer’s day. Why not plant some raspberry bushes under your palm tree?

Sadly, like many fruits, raspberry plants need high levels of potassium. This nutrient is already scarce for palm trees. Planting raspberries underneath your palm tree would cause it harm because of potassium deficiency.

What Can I Put Under My Palm Tree?

Red and pink Hollyhock flower garden blooming on fresh green grass smooth lawn carpet, green roof pavillion palm trees and building on background under white sky sunlight morning, in good maintenance landscape of public park

Here are some plants that will flourish when planted alongside your palm tree: 9 Beautiful Plants To Put Under Your Palm Tree

Aside from planting other greenery, some people wonder if it’s okay to put sand or soil around the base of their palm tree.

It depends.

If you are hoping to incorporate a flat, even surface of sand or soil, there’s nothing inherently harmful to your palm tree. This leaves the proper amount of space between the roots and the surface. 

The problem comes when individuals form a mound or pile of soil at the base of their palm. Adding even ½” of additional soil to an existing tree can upset its root system. 

Another hazardous choice is to surround your palm tree with rocks or gravel. This can increase the temperature of the ground and damage a palm tree’s root system.

Stick with organic materials such as mulch and keep them at ground level. If you choose to add some foliage, stay away from the 17 plants listed above and you can’t go wrong!

References

Aronsohn, M. D. N. (2018, March 23). Palm trees are spreading northward. how far will they go? State of the Planet.

Moore, R. J. (2008). Growing Palms. Volume 52(4).

Reichgelt, T., West, C.K. & Greenwood, D.R. The relation between global palm distribution and climate. Sci Rep 8, 4721 (2018).

Smith, Kevin T. 2013. Do you believe in palm trees? Landscape Hawaii. January|February 2013: 14-16.

Planting anything under a maple tree can present unique challenges. Many people who have tried their hand at landscaping under the thick, dry, dark canopy of big maple trees have only thrown their hands up in resignation. Maple trees have expansive roots that greedily seek any moisture and nutrients in the soil, leaving you wondering what you can under them.

You need smaller plants with shallow roots, are drought tolerant, and love shade when planting under maple trees. The best companion plants to pair with maple trees include hellebore, vinca minor, sedum, ferns, daffodils, lilly of the valley, daylilies, tulips, crocus, and Canadian wild ginger.

The list is relatively small when it comes to plants that can survive underneath a maple tree because of their roots and the thick canopy that keeps the ground shaded. Some plants can thrive under a maple tree and below are 11 of the best plants you can plant under your maple trees – let’s get to it!

Why Most Plants Fail Under Maple Trees

Grass is difficult to grow underneath maple trees because of the dry, shady conditions. Most turf grass requires plenty of sunlight and moisture, but under the canopy of maple trees, these commodities are rare.

Some grasses can grow in shade, but then you could end up with a lawn that’s not uniform in color and texture. Not to mention the difficulty in mowing around the exposed roots of maple trees because they are so shallow and often stick up above the ground.

The maple trees themselves need quite a bit of sun to thrive, which is why shade-tolerant plants are important for the ground cover below them.

Maple Tree Roots Steal Most Of The Nutrients

There are a lot of plants, shrubs, and flowers that grow quite well in shady conditions, the problems come when you disturb a maple tree’s roots or you start to water the plants. The roots of maple trees are greedy feeders that can choke out other plants when they are introduced into the area.

When you plant something, you have to dig a hole, of course. However, when you plant under a maple tree, no matter how careful you are, you will end up cutting through some roots. The next step is to water and possibly fertilize the new plant. That’s when the maple tree sends its roots out to collect all the water and nutrients.

When maple tree roots are disturbed or cut, they will regrow feeder roots. These can grow fast and thick, and they often will become so thick they choke out the roots of any other plants to absorb as much water as possible.

One way that can circumvent this problem is to lay a few inches of soil over the shallow maple roots, but there are risks associated with this too. If you drop too much soil over the roots, the tree could decline, or you’ll shorten its lifespan.

Too Many Plants And Soil Can Cut Off Tree Root Circulation

Tree roots need some air circulation, that’s why they pop up at the surface. When the soil is too compact, or they are covered in a thick layer of mulch or soil, then the roots can suffocate. You may not notice it at first, but this will eventually reduce the years left on the tree and weaken it.

When covering tree roots with soil or mulch, the fresh nutrients will cause the maple to send roots into this area to feed. This behavior can lead to the new plants getting choked out.

Maple varieties like the fast-growing silver maple and the invasive Norway maple species are the most difficult maples to grow anything under. Many owners report any plants positioned under these species end up being taken over in a year or two because of the aggressive root system.

Look For Native Plants To Thrive Under Maples

Native plants in your area are more able to withstand the summers and winters and will need less care than hybrids and species from other climates.

According to BoulderColorado.gov, native plants have evolved to grow well in their local environment. They can easily bounce back from early frost, drought, and spring snow and, once established, need very little care.

What’s A Maple Tree Owner To Do?

Colorful autumn maple tree

While it may seem like there’s nothing to do but just accept that the area underneath a maple tree is going to look sparse and dry, there are things that can make this area look better.

Search For Plants In Containers No Bigger Than A Gallon

The larger the container, the larger the hole that needs to be dug, and the more roots you’ll end up disturbing.

So, just stick to smaller containers and you’ll be much better off. If you have a proper garden cover, it’ll help cover the holes.

Water The Entire Area Around Your Plants

When watering your new plants, if you only water the plants, this will invite more maple roots to move in and start crowding out the new plant.

To avoid this problem, you’ll have to water the entire area around the tree. When the whole tree gets watered, it will be happy and it won’t need to invade the wet “pockets.”

The same goes for fertilizer. Just adding fertilizer to your landscaped plants will tell the maple tree to send out feeders to snatch up the new nutrients. Either use a broadcast spreader to fertilize a larger area, or forego the supplement altogether.

There are certain fertilizers maple trees enjoy most, especially those high in nitrogen. You can learn more about that in our full list of the best maple tree fertilizers.

Be Careful Around The Maple Tree’s Roots

While it’s inevitable that you will end up cutting through some maple tree roots when you’re planting under it, be careful around the woody roots. These are the thicker roots that have a bark-like coating around them.

When these are damaged, the tree can suffer because they store additional sugars and nutrients for the tree.

When you come across these roots while digging, cover the hole back up and move a few inches over. The softer, feeder roots won’t damage the tree as much when they are cut or broken.

Of course, you could always cut down your maple tree if you want your plants to take priority, but that’s a whole other study.

Best Plants For Underneath Your Maple Tree

Now that we have those caveats covered, here are the 11 best plants you can plant under maple trees. Get your glasses on, it’s a doozy!

Columbine Performs Well Under Maple Trees

USDA Hardiness Zone3 – 9
Flowering SeasonMid-spring to summer
Additional InfoProlific re-seeders

Columbines have distinctive five-petaled flowers that have points, or spurs, behind them. They also have pleasing foliage, and attract all matter of nectar feeders. They do well in shady areas and will look good for most of the growing season.

Columbines prefer moist, but not soggy soil. Though they are perennials, columbines are short-lived flowers that only live for about three to four years max before they stop coming back.

The good news is they reseed themselves easily, so once you get a few in your garden, you shouldn’t have to purchase them over and over.

With the easy reseeding habit, even if maple tree roots crowd out the columbines, they will continue to come back as long as you don’t have a thick bed of mulch to prevent the seeds from taking.

These flowers come in many shapes and colors, so you can have a garden area under your maple tree that has a variety of shapes and colors with these flowers alone.

Find a variety of columbine bulbs here—5 Sweet Caroline Columbine Perennial Flower Bulb Collection.

Hellebore Will Grow Under Your Maple Tree

USDA Hardiness Zone3 – 9
Flowering SeasonLate fall to early spring depending on the variety
Additional InfoEvergreen, winter flowers

One of the few plants that flower in late fall and into the winter, hellebores offer sprigs of bright color when most other plants are laying dormant, waiting for spring. Hellebores are also evergreen, so you will have color all year long.

They often look weak and spindly during hot summer days. Once the temperatures break and the season cools, hellebores come to life.

Since they like shade in the summer and plenty of sunlight in the winter, these flowers are perfect for areas under big maple trees.

Some varieties of these flowers bloom in November and stop in mid-winter around December and January, while others, like the Lenten Rose, bloom later in the season and last until spring when other flowers shine.

Once established, hellebores are not thirsty plants and can usually survive normal rains. Though in times of drought, they will require some supplemental watering. To keep them flowering, you’ll need to cut out any dead foliage and add a light layer of compost every other year.

You can propagate them by splitting them when they get crowded. They can reseed themselves, but they grow slowly, and may not flower for a year or two when they grow from seeds.

Here are a few live hellebore plants if these flowers have caught your interest—Lenten Rose Live Plants, 3 Hellebore Plants in 2 Inch Pots.

Vinca Minor Thrives Under Maple Trees

Vinca minor lesser periwinkle ornamental flowers in bloom, common periwinkle flowering plant, creeping ground flowers
USDA Hardiness Zone4 – 9
Flowering SeasonSpring to summer
Additional InfoEvergreen groundcover

This is a low-growing groundcover that has small, shallow roots that can withstand the delicate but aggressive maple roots. Vinca, also called periwinkle, sprouts small flowers either blue, purple, or white in the spring and keeps deep green evergreen foliage.

They spread by sending out thin vines that root when they touch the ground. Sometimes they will try to grow up the trees, but I have yet to see vinca that grows more than about a foot tall.

Periwinkle works great with bulbs such as daffodils, crocus, and tulips. These bulbs will poke through the vinca vines, bloom, and then recede while the vinca continues to spread out. This way you have a flourish of spring color when the flowers bloom, and a green carpet the rest of the year.

Once established, vinca minor needs very little care, it’s drought tolerant, does well without fertilizer, and will stay within a border with regular trimming. You can add a light layer of compost occasionally to keep it green and strong if the soil is lacking, otherwise, just let some of the maple leaves decompose to add nutrients to the soil.

Here are enough periwinkle plants to cover a large area—Greenwood Nursery / Live Ground Cover Plants – Vinca Minor.

Sedum Is Great Ground Cover For Under Maples

USDA Hardiness Zone4 – 9
Flowering SeasonSummer into fall
Additional InfoOver 400 different varieties

If you’re looking for a plant that virtually thrives on neglect, then creeping sedum, or stonecrop, is the “crop” for you. These plants seem to grow where all other plants fear to tread. They can grow in dry soil, between cracks in stones, and in soil that seems devoid of nutrition.

The only places some variety of sedum can’t thrive are wet, soggy lands. Sedum can take a drought like no one’s business, but too much water will have them vanishing like a magician’s assistant.

Creeping sedum is a ground cover that can coexist with even the most aggressive of maple tree roots. It will spread quickly, covering the ground with a succulent carpet of beauty that changes color in the fall.

While some varieties will shrivel up and come back next year, there are also evergreen varieties. In fact, there are over 400 varieties of sedum for you to choose from. Some grow tall and produce clusters of flowers, while others remain a colorful blanket of ground cover.

When looking for sedum, strike up a conversation with your local nursery expert to find out the best kind that will work for you and in your area. You might be able to plant several varieties in the same area for some striking visual impact.

If creeping sedum is your thing and you want to get started now, find them here—Sedum spurium Dragon’s Blood, Ground Cover.

Ferns Happily Grow Under Maple Trees

USDA Hardiness Zone3 – 10
Flowering SeasonFoliage plant
Additional InfoReproduce via spores instead of flowers

Ferns have been around since before dinosaurs and are still thriving today. Most ferns live in tropical areas, but there are still plenty of varieties that survive in North America. Ferns typically like shady, moist soil, so if you plant these under your maple trees, you’ll have to water the area regularly.

Two species of ferns that have found happiness growing underneath maple trees are the maidenhair fern, and Japanese painted fern. The maidenhair fern looks slightly different from typical ferns such as the Boston fern. It has small, fan-shaped leaflets that grow off the thin stems.

They are considered slow-growing ferns, taking up to three years to reach maturity. When fully grown, they reach about one to two feet tall and wide. These will need more water than most plants, so if you don’t want to water them constantly, you will do better getting something a little less thirsty.

Japanese painted ferns are visually stunning plants. They have bluish-silver fronds, with darker ribs for contrast and grow about 18 inches tall and wide.

These ferns naturalize relatively easily because they can spread through rhizomes. They also love the shade, as the strong, southern sun will scorch the delicate leaves. They are more tolerant of the dryer, poorer soil than maidenhair ferns, but they still need moist soil to keep them happy.

The gorgeous color of these ferns might make up for their tendency to be picky.

Daffodils Can Live Under Maple Trees

USDA Hardiness Zone3 – 9
Flowering SeasonSpring
Additional InfoMake great cut flowers

These bulbs are great for naturalizing and often seem to spring up in yards across America as if my magic. They are hardy bulbs that come up in early spring, produce a flourish of yellow, orange, or white flowers, then recede into the ground when it’s time to mow.

They are easy to grow under maple trees because they have a mounding, clumping habit, and will shrivel back when the tree’s canopy reaches full bloom. Since daffodils clump together and the bulbs propagate easily, you’ll have to separate clumps occasionally to keep them healthy.

Bulbs are great options to plant around maple trees because all you have to do is dig a small circular hole in the ground, drop the bulb in and cover it. When planting daffodils, put them in the ground in the fall, and they will flower in the spring. Use this Edward Tools Bulb Planter to make planting bulbs easy.

You can find plenty of daffodil bulbs here—Yellow Daffodils 25 Healthy Heirloom Bulbs.

Lily Of The Valley Flourishes Under Maple Trees

Blooming lilies of the valley in sunny pine forest
USDA Hardiness Zone3 – 8
Flowering SeasonSpring
Additional InfoConsidered invasive in some areas

These little plants with their bell-shaped delicate flowers and thick, rich, green foliage are next to the dictionary under “set it and forget it.” They grow well in shady areas, like under trees where most other plants dare to grow.

Lily of the valley spread through rhizomes that can be separated and replanted when they get too crowded. They will quickly spread out and cover an area where adequate shade protects them from too much sun. 

There aren’t many pests that will damage your lily of the valley plants. Occasionally aphids or spider mites can become a nuisance, but ladybugs will often keep them in check. When these lilies go dormant, the pests have no choice but to move on.

These little beauties with their fragrant flowers grow so well in some areas they are considered invasive species, so check your local nursery experts to find out if certain plants are invasive.

You can get a start on lily of the valley here—White Lily of the Valley 10 Pips.

Daylilies Prosper Under Maple Trees

USDA Hardiness Zone4 – 9
Flowering SeasonSpring to fall
Additional InfoEvery part is edible

Daylilies are prolific and all-purpose flowers that are used in landscapes all over. They grow in full sun to partial shade, can tolerate droughts, and attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

These plants spread through tubers and seeds and are easily separated and propagated. The flowers come in many colors, as well as styles. You can have double daylilies, ruffled edges, small flowers, or some nearly as large as dinner plates.

Their leaves show in early spring, then they put out thin, round stems where the flowers grow and last sometimes until the fall, but the mounding foliage sticks around until fall. All you have to do is cut them back when they are dried out and they will come back bigger and lusher.

For planting daylilies under maple trees, plant them closer to the outer edge as they need some sun to produce more flowers. A nice contrast would be to plant some ground cover plants in the inner area of the tree and use daylilies as a border at the outer edge.

When the daylilies are cut back, you still have some cover, and when everything is growing you have a nice, contained area of green under the tree.

There are many colors and varieties of daylilies. These are quite natural looking for areas under maple trees and are quite inexpensive—50 WILD DAY LILY BULBS.

Tulips Will Bloom Year After Year Under Maples

USDA Hardiness Zone3 – 8
Flowering SeasonEarly spring
Additional InfoPerennials, but some have annual habits

Tulips share a lot of similarities with daffodils. They are both harbingers of spring, but tulips can poke through the ground when there’s still a threat of snow and freezes. This is okay because they are cold tolerant plants.

Tulips are essentially perennial bulbs, but after centuries of hybridizing, some of these bulbs have lost their ability to return year after year. Unfortunately, some tulip bulbs may only come up one time, but you get to change them out and alter the colors every year.

If you want your tulips to come back every year, search out words like naturalizing, perennial, and certain species of tulips when you’re looking to purchase. Smaller tulips like dwarf varieties are also recurring bulbs that will come back each year.

The smaller versions rarely make great cut flowers because they are usually too small to put in vases, but they will make a return instead of being a once-and-done flower.

These tulips are perennials, so you won’t have to replant every year—Perennial Tulip Bulbs.

Crocus Spreads Under Maple Trees

USDA Hardiness Zone3 – 8
Flowering SeasonEarly spring
Additional InfoCrocus means cheerful

When it seems the groundhog was right and winter is sticking around longer than it needs to, the crocuses will poke through the ground to offer the dreary landscape some much-needed color. These little flowers can be naturalized for some early, sometimes needed brightness.

These dainty flowers grow from corms. In the late days of winter, you might see the thin leaves poking through the barren landscape, and soon the little colorful flowers will show you that spring is coming.

Most crocuses are quite small, but the Dutch giant varieties grow up to four inches tall. Yeah, not very big for a giant, but they are great for early bees who need a spring snack.

Crocuses will spread like most flowers that grow from bulbs, so once they clump together, you can spread them out to have more clumps of these early spring flowers. As long as you plant them in the fall, they will flower in spring. They need a period of cold weather to make them flower.

Once you have planted them, there’s nothing much you need to do to keep them healthy. As long as the dormant corms get a dose of water between dry spells, they will be fine. Just add them to the landscape with some later blooming flowers or ground covers for visual interest throughout most of the year.

Get an early start on spring with these—Perennial Crocus Bulbs.

Canadian Wild Ginger Sprouts Under Maple Trees

USDA Hardiness Zone3 – 7
Flowering SeasonSpring to summer
Additional InfoCan attract the endangered Pipevine Swallowtail Butterfly

Canadian wild ginger is a low-growing ground cover that has spade, or heart-shaped leaves that grow about six inches tall. Their flowers are often found underneath the foliage and are mostly hidden, but they can attract the pipevine swallowtail butterfly. This butterfly is considered endangered in Maine.

Wild ginger can propagate from seeds or by splitting the rhizomes. Propagation by seeds is often difficult, so it’s easier to split groups of wild ginger through the rhizomes.

It’s a shade-loving ground cover that tolerates dry conditions. It may need some supplemental composting if the soil is lacking in nutrients.

Wild ginger is also evergreen, so if you plant this around your maple trees, it will keep a pleasing color all year long.  

Use Container Plants Under Your Maple If All Else Fails

Now you have several options for planting under your maple trees, but if none of these work, or they just aren’t what you’re looking for, you can always use containers. Adding a light layer of mulch—two to three inches max—and various containers can offer an acceptable alternative.

When it comes to container gardening you also don’t have to weed, till, or rake these plants. Much easier!

This way you can plant nearly an endless option of plants, shrubs, and flowers under your maple tree. As long as they are shade plants that do well in containers, plant away. Using varying types of containers in both height and width will lead to a more appealing contrast.

To keep from compacting the soil too much, use lighter containers and ones that aren’t too deep. Compacted soil can damage tree roots, so we try not to pack it down too much.

You can also fill the bottoms of containers with lightweight materials like used water bottles to keep them from getting too heavy.

Let’s Conclude This Session

While it can certainly be difficult to find plants that will tolerate the hungry, thirsty, and downright pushy maple roots, you now know you have a few options.

Whether you go with spring bulbs for a pop of early color, ground cover, or a mixture, you don’t have to suffer with a brown “dirt scape” under your maples.

It may be a bit of extra work in the beginning, but most of the plants in this article will grow with minimal care once they are established. Soon you will have a vibrant, lush landscape where once nothing would take.

If you’re interested in planting a new maple tree, take a look at our top picks for the best maple trees to plant here!

References:

Pregitzer, Kurt S., et al. “Variation in sugar maple root respiration with root diameter and soil depth.” Tree physiology 18.10 (1998): 665-670.

Xia, Mengxue, Alan F. Talhelm, and Kurt S. Pregitzer. “Fine roots are the dominant source of recalcitrant plant litter in sugar maple‐dominated northern hardwood forests.” New Phytologist 208.3 (2015): 715-726.

Martin, Patrick H. “Norway maple (Acer platanoides) invasion of a natural forest stand: understory consequence and regeneration pattern.” Biological invasions 1.2 (1999): 215-222.

Pegram, Kimberly V., et al. “Warning color changes in response to food deprivation in the pipevine swallowtail butterfly, Battus philenor.” Journal of Insect Science 13.1 (2013). https://academic.oup.com/jinsectscience/article/13/1/110/1751849  

Depending on who you ask, willow trees can be polarizing; while some gardeners love them, others curse these trees for being difficult to keep alive, water-seeking plants of misery. Whether you love willows or you hate them, one thing is certain: it’s difficult to grow plants under their canopy. You can do it though if you use these best plants to put under your willow tree.

Shallow-rooted, vigorous-growing native plants do well under willow trees. Shade-tolerant plants also thrive in these conditions. The best plants for under your willow tree are vinca minor, hostas, lily of the valley, jack in the pulpit, Solomon’s seal, carpet bugle, daffodils, and white trillium.

Don’t despair if the area under your willow tree looks like it needs something to make it look more interesting. We have plenty of ideas to turn that drab area into an eye-catching excitement that compliments the splendor of your willow tree. Let’s dive right in!

What Are Willow Trees?

There are over 400 varieties of willow trees, from small shrubs to giants towering nearly 100 feet into the air. One thing they all have in common is their love of water and moist soil. They are often seen along banks of ponds or streams where their roots help to hold the soil together.

Willows and weeping willows are very similar, but also have distinct qualities. Like how every square is a rectangle, but not every rectangle is a square. You can read about their differences here!

There’s something majestic about a weeping willow that has long, vine-like branches trailing down to the water’s edge. That must be one reason so many people love these popular trees.

These sweeping canopies make it difficult to grow most plants below them. While this article focuses on what you can plant, there are some you want to stay away from. Learn more in our full list of plants not to grow under your willow tree!

Popular Species Of Willow Tree

Some of the most popular willow trees include the iconic weeping willow, Salix caprea, and corkscrew willow. Weeping willows are large trees that have thin branches that cascade down to look like a tree in mourning.

The Salix caprea produces fuzzy catkins in early spring. These branches are often dried and used in home decor. A bunch of these branches set in a decorative vase can liven up a normally boring corner.

Catkins are petalless flowers that can look like fuzzy spikes or miniature bottle brushes that grow from trees like willows, oaks, aspens, and birches. Weeping willow catkins can attract honeybees, butterflies, and other pollinators because they produce small amounts of nectar.

Corkscrew willows have an all-year-long visual appeal because of the curving habits of the branches. The twisting branches look more frizzy than Ms. Frizzle’s hair on a hot, humid southern day. The good thing about the corkscrew willow is they don’t have to worry about bedhead. Their frizzy, curled branches are what makes them look so amazing.

What To Watch Out For With Willow Trees

Homeowners have to be careful planting willow trees as they are fast-growing trees that can break easily in bad weather. Their roots can also be incredibly invasive if they find a source of water. They can infiltrate pipes, or dig into underground pools if there is only a tiny crack where they can cause quite a bit of damage.

These issues and more may lead you to cut down your willow tree, but that decision is usually a last resort!

Best Plants To Grow Under Willow Trees

Natural landscape. view from shore of the lake or river of the weeping willow on the other side.

When searching for plants that can handle the stressful environment under willow trees, there are a few things to search for. You need to find plants that can tolerate or grow well in shady areas.

The canopy of willow trees, especially weeping willows, can keep most sunlight at bay nearly all day long. Look for plants that do well in partial to full shade unless you plan on placing these plants along the outer edges of the trees where they are likely to get more sunlight.

Look for plants that like moist soil because a dry willow won’t last very long. While some hybrids take better to dry dirt, the vast majority of willow trees need a lot of water to stay alive. So you don’t want to find shade-loving plants that grow best during dry periods.

Shallow-rooted plants are something else to look for. Willow tree roots can create dense pockets of thirsty roots that are very competitive when it comes to nutrients and water.

Planting something with deep, heavy roots under a willow tree will probably end up getting choked out by the willow roots. 

While you can certainly find more plants that can coexist with your willow tree by following the above recommendations, here are nine plants you can plant under your willow tree.  

Vinca Minor Will Thrive Under Willow Trees

Hardiness Zone4 – 9
Bloom TimeSpring to summer
Average Size6” tall. Ground cover
Water NeedsDrought tolerant

This hardy ground cover is also known as periwinkle or creeping myrtle. It is a shallow-rooted, evergreen, vine-like creeper that can grow well in different soil conditions. This vine produces dainty five-petaled flowers in mid-spring and sometimes again in the fall. 

The flowers can be purple (periwinkle), blue, or white, and they often attract small butterflies. The leaves are oblong, glossy, and deep green, but they also come in variegated versions with an outside border of white or cream coloring. For an easy way to liven up the area under your willow tree, vinca can do the trick.

Even though it’s a vine, you don’t have to worry about it crawling up and choking out your trees like other species like English ivy, or wisteria. Vinca minor likes to stay close to the ground and make a carpet of green leaves. 

Periwinkle is easy to propagate as well as it will spread well on its own, or you can take cuttings and start them in water. As the plant sends out runners, wherever the thin branches touch the ground, they will shoot out small roots. 

You can also cut small sections from the vines, remove the bottom half of the leaves, and put the bare area in a small container of water. In a few weeks, roots will sprout, then you can take them and put them in the ground. That’s it, you have a new vinca plant.

Find 50 vinca minor roots right here: Greenwood Nursery / Live Ground Cover Plants – Vinca Minor!

Hostas Grow Beautifully Below Willow Trees

Hardiness Zones3 – 9
Bloom TimeSummer
Average Size12” tall and wide, up to 4’ tall and wide
Water NeedsMinimal once established

These vigorous foliage plants with attractive mounding habits are great for planting further away from the trunk of willow trees. When planted too close to the willow’s trunk, the roots can choke hostas out, so plant these closer to the drip line of the tree. 

Hostas come in an array of colors and sizes so you could plant an entire ring of these perennial plants around your willow trees and not have two of the same. They do better with shady or early morning sunlight and like to have moist soil, so they will coexist well with willow trees. 

Hostas can be separated after a few years of growth because they send out runners which sprout new mounds. They can also spread by seed, so even if willow roots choke them out, they typically keep growing new plants. 

Depending on the variety, hostas can flower in spring or into late summer. The plant sends out a handful of spikes where small, drooping flowers will appear and bloom for a few weeks before fading away. The foliage grows in early spring and continues to grow until a hard frost shrivels them. 

When they die back, cut out the brown foliage and flower spikes to keep infections away, and they will come back next season bigger and fuller. 

Colossal varieties of hostas might appeal to you because you won’t have to plant too many of them, but with their bigger, deeper roots, they may struggle against a willow tree. Stick to normal-sized hostas which grow about a foot to three feet wide and about a foot tall.

With their spreading habits, you’ll have plenty of hostas growing under your willow trees in no time. 

You can get a variety of six hosta roots here: Mixed Hosta Perennials (6 Pack of Bare Roots).

Lily Of The Valley Grows Great Under Willow Trees

Hardiness Zones3 – 8
Bloom TimeSpring
Average Size12” by 12”
Water NeedsMoist

Another plant that will help to cover the area under your willow trees is the fast-growing lily of the valley. These flowers grow wide, oblong, green leaves and sprout little, bell-shaped flower stalks in the spring. Lily of the valley are fast-growing shade-loving plants that like moist soil. 

In the hottest areas, these plants might wither away in the heat of the summer, but they usually come back every spring. In cooler climates, they will stick around until a hard frost when they go dormant for the winter and return later.

They spread through rhizomes and when they get crowded together can easily be split apart and transplanted. Once you plant these flowers though, they can quickly spread out on their own. Especially if they get enough water and stay out of the southern sun.

You don’t have to worry about deer or rabbits eating your lily of the valley if you have these foragers in your area. Lily of the valley doesn’t contend with many pests aside from aphids and occasionally mites, but these pests rarely do enough damage to the plants to harm them. 

Lily of the valley flowers are such vigorous growing plants they are considered invasive in some areas. Check with your local nursery expert to find out if these flowers are acceptable in your area. 

If lily of the valley sounds like the plant for your willow, check out this White Lily of the Valley!

Jack-In-The-Pulpit Makes Great Ground Cover

Hardiness Zones4 – 9
Bloom TimeSpring to summer
Average Size12” to 24” tall 
Water NeedsMoist

These plants resemble the carnivorous pitcher plant, but they don’t have that habit. They prefer to get their nutrients from rich, moist, sometimes swampy soil. Because they like their soil to be “juicy” and full of nutrients, much like willow trees, these flowers can do well around willows. 

Jack-in-the-pulpit are flowers that love shade and are often found underneath trees in their native areas. According to the U.S. Forest Service, jack in the pulpits are also called Indian turnips and are found in deciduous forests and floodplains. They can live for over 25 years and will spread out over time.

Jack-in-the-pulpits are exotic-looking plants with three sectioned leaves and odd flower shapes. They are cylindrical and long, with a type of hood that hangs over the open end of the flower, and they grow as tall as the leaves. The flowers are typically green with maroon stripes.

Once the flowers have been pollinated, they create clusters of seeds on a single spike. These berries ripen to a bright red and are a food source for some birds. 

These plants can make a showy, exotic addition to any garden. Combined with a dense ground cover, your willow tree could be the envy of the neighborhood. 

For exotic looking jack-in-the-pulpit bulbs, take a look at these 10 Jack-in-The-Pulpit Bulbs.

Solomon’s Seal Will Grow Under Willow Trees

Solomons seal flowering in the spring
Hardiness Zones3 – 9
Bloom TimeSpring
Average SizeSome varieties can grow to 7 feet tall. 12” to 4’ wide.
Water NeedsMoist

Solomon’s seal is another slow-growing perennial that can live for decades. They spread so slowly that many owners of this flower simply let them grow as they please. Most varieties don’t get large, only growing a foot or two tall.

These plants are virtually maintenance-free. The only thing you need to do for Solomon’s seals to keep them healthy is to water them regularly and protect them from the sun. They prefer soft, humid soil and only dappled sunlight, too much sun will scorch the leaves.

You won’t even have to deadhead the flowers or cut back the growth when they go dormant for the cold season. The vegetation separates itself from the rhizomes on its own so you don’t have to cut the dried growth for plant health. 

Solomon’s seal blooms in the spring. They send out small, white, bell-shaped flowers that run along a single stem. After the flowers drop, berries grow that some bird species will consume. 

With a thick bed of mulch and a couple of handfuls of Solomon’s seal, you can make the area under your willow tree beautiful and natural looking.

You can find bare roots of Solomon’s seal here: Solomon’s Seal Plạnts Perennial Bare Root Stock.

Carpet Bugle Will Cover Under Your Willow Tree

Hardiness Zones3 – 10
Bloom TimeSpring
Average Size8” tall. Ground cover
Water NeedsMoist

Also known as ajuga, or bugleweed (uh oh, when “weed” is in the name, that can’t be good), carpet bugle will cover a barren area rather quickly. Carpet bugle is an evergreen ground cover that can grow almost anywhere, that includes under willow trees.

This thick ground covering can choke out weeds, control erosion, and fill in spots other plants can’t seem to manage. It keeps its visual appeal all year long and blooms with blue, purple, or white flowers from May through June. 

So… the bugleweed can become a nuisance because it’s a member of the mint family. If you have any experience with mint, you’re probably experiencing a bout of PTSD right now.

Don’t worry, because carpet bugle isn’t as bad as mint, you won’t have to burn your entire yard to get rid of it. 

While this plant will grow well underneath the canopy of willow trees and the shade they provide when it hits full sun, the fast-spreading habit slows down, so it’s easier to control. Also, bugleweed sends out visible runners, instead of popping out from thin air like mint does.

When you take the runners and reposition them, they will continue to grow in that direction, so you have control there. 

You can also contain carpet bugle by installing edging around it. Unlike most other mint family plants, this flower usually respects boundaries, instead of acting like an invasive neighbor that shows up at the wrong time, every time. 

Deadheading them before they shower the ground with seeds is another way to keep the carpet bugle from disrespecting boundaries. They can still spread out, but this way they slow it down. 

While you can cover a large area with a few plants, when they start to clump together in tight clusters, you’ll have to separate them to keep them healthy and reduce infections.

Though this plant requires a bit more work than others on the list, they are one of the strongest contenders that can keep up with willow roots, and they look good all year long. 

Daffodils Spring Up Under Willow Trees

Hardiness Zones4 – 8
Bloom TimeSpring
Average Size6” to 12” by 6” to 30”
Water NeedsDrought tolerant

These spring-blooming bulbs are a great addition for naturalization and a pop of early spring color. Daffodils or jonquils, as they are sometimes called, are easy to care for. All you need to do is plant them in the fall for spring flowers and let them go. 

They will begin to sprout when the winter days start to let up, then they produce yellow, orange, or sometimes white flowers that hang around for a little while before they shrivel up.

The foliage will stick around for a month or two after the flowers are gone, so you will have some color under your willow tree until summer. 

Add these bulbs to a ground cover like vinca and you’ll have year-round color in the once barren area under your willow. All you have to do with daffodils is to cut away the brown, dried foliage, and separate them when they get crowded.

You can get wild, brilliant yellow daffodils right here—Wild Daffodil (Bulbs).

White Trillium Flourishes Under Willow Trees

Trillium field
Hardiness Zones4 – 8
Bloom TimeMid spring to summer
Average Size1’ by 2’
Water NeedsHumid soil

Found in abundance in the wilds of the Appalachian mountains, white trilliums thrive underneath the thick canopies of trees and forests. They do better with rich, moist, loamy soil, which is where you’ll find most willow trees. 

According to the U.S. Forestry Service, trilliums can be found as far north as Canada and Maine, as far west as Minnesota, and all over the Appalachian mountains, down into Georgia. In the Blue Ridge Mountains along Virginia, you can find a vast expanse of trilliums that are estimated to carry 10 million plants. 

These beautiful perennial plants can be propagated by separating their rhizomes, but it’s a slow process. It can take a few years before new plants bloom while growing trilliums from seed can take even longer. Sometimes these plants won’t bloom from seeds for up to seven years. 

You won’t have to worry about these slow growers taking over anytime soon, but they are a long-lived flower. White trilliums can grow back year after year for up to 25 years. 

White trilliums produce emerald-colored leaves and a single three-petaled white flower per plant that bloom from late April until June. Though they are named white trilliums, occasionally you can find a pink flower amongst the sea of white and bright green.

Trilliums are endangered in the wild, so if you see them on a hike through the forest, it’s best to let them be and find them in your local nursery. They make brilliant companions with jack in the pulpits and hostas.

Watering Around Your Willow

When you plant flowers, ground cover, or shrubs under your willow trees, it might seem like second nature to water the new arrival. This needs to be done to keep them healthy and welcome them to their new home, but neglecting the willow tree could cause early problems.

The roots will sense this alternative source of water and send out little feeder roots. 

These new roots could quickly drown out or choke the new arrivals. Not a great way to start a cohesive living arrangement. To avoid this, you need to water the ground all around your willow tree so that it doesn’t create these invasive feeder roots. 

Set Your New Plants Up For Success

Whenever you water these new plants, don’t forget to hit the ground all around the willow. To limit the need to water all the time, add a layer of mulch around the willow tree.

Just keep the mulch about two to three inches away from the trunk so it doesn’t cause problems on the trunk. 

The mulch not only serves to make the area look better and more professional, but it helps to keep moisture in the ground (you don’t have to water as much). The mulch also adds organic material to the ground as it breaks down. 

Also, be careful when watering your willow trees. Snakes love to take shelter under these huge trees! You can learn more about how to keep snakes away from your willow trees here!

Place Plants In Containers As An Alternative

If all these plants seem like too much trouble, or they just don’t work, you can always make the area interesting by adding a variety of container plants

There are many benefits to doing containers underneath trees. They can be moved, you can plant almost anything in the containers—as long as it’s big enough for the plant in question—and you don’t have to worry about the tree competing for water and nutrients.

The problems with containers are they can become exceptionally heavy, and you’ll have to water them much more often because the soil will dry out faster.

With all the shapes, sizes, and materials containers are now made from, you have endless options if this is the route you decide. You can also put plants in the ground and compliment them with a few containers if you wish. 

Wrapping Things Up!

Now you have endless options for ideas to spruce up the barren area under your willow trees, so go out there and get planting.

Plant some bulbs, or a few taller plants for color and contrast, then add some ground cover to fill in between these spaces. 

Willow trees can be difficult roommates because of their greedy, invasive roots, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have a pleasant garden underneath that thick, swaying canopy. 

References:

Jensen, Julie K., et al. “The potential of willow for remediation of heavy metal polluted calcareous urban soils.” Environmental pollution 157.3 (2009): 931-937.

Wilkinson, A. G. “Poplars and willows for soil erosion control in New Zealand.” Biomass and Bioenergy 16.4 (1999): 263-274.

Phillips, Chris J., Michael Marden, and Lambie M. Suzanne. “Observations of root growth of young poplar and willow planting types.” New Zealand Journal of Forestry Science 44.1 (2014): 1-12.

Mickovski, Slobodan B., et al. “The effect of willow roots on the shear strength of soil.” The soils of tomorrow: soils changing in a changing world (2008): 247-262.

Sycamore trees are the statement piece of any yard. Their massive height paired with mottled bark makes them an attractive tree. If you have one in your yard or are thinking of planting one, you may be wondering what you can and can’t grow under a sycamore tree.

Sycamore trees have a wide canopy, so any plants underneath will need to be shade tolerant and not compete with the tree. You should not grow impatiens, English ivy, coneflower, peonies, geraniums, delphinium, spider flower, astilbe, periwinkle, mums, and lupines underneath a sycamore tree.

Creating a landscape under a sycamore tree can be tricky. We’ll cover all the plants you can and can’t grow under a sycamore tree – so, without further ado!

Why Is It Hard To Grow Plants Under A Sycamore Tree?

Sycamore trees are fast-growing, and they GROW. Mature sycamore trees typically reach a height of around 70 to 100 feet with a spread just as wide.

According to Clemson University, the American sycamore and London planetree (sycamore hybrid) are the two most widely used species in the landscape. They are often used to line streets since the London planetree is quite tolerant of pollution.

If you have one of these giant sentinels in your yard, you may find it a bit difficult to plant anything beneath. There are a few reasons why planting under a sycamore tree will test your patience.

Sycamore Trees Require A Lot Of Shade

Often times sycamore trees are grown in the yard to provide shade. With a huge spread, sycamores produce a lot of shade.

Any plant grown under a sycamore tree must be tolerant of shade. Even plants that are partial shade may struggle if not planted in the right space under a sycamore tree.

Sycamore Trees Leaves Are Massive

Sycamore leaves and seed pods in the sunlight

Sycamore trees are deciduous, meaning they lose their leaves in the fall. This can be a serious problem for anything planted under a sycamore tree for three reasons:

  • Leaf size
  • Effect of leaves on the soil
  • Leaf chemicals

The leaves of a sycamore tree are enormous, reaching up to 9 inches or more depending on the tree. As the leaves drop, they can blanket the area underneath, preventing the little amount of sun that will reach the plants beneath.

In addition to possibly shading out the plants under your sycamore tree, the leaves also decompose slowly due to their large size.

As the leaves decompose, they add nutrients to the soil, which can be beneficial to some plants but harmful to others.

Lastly, sycamore leaves are slightly allelopathic, meaning they exude chemicals that are meant as a defense mechanism against herbivores. As the leaves decompose in the soil, these chemicals are released and may affect sensitive plants.

When compared to other toxic chemicals such as juglone from walnut trees, the chemicals released in sycamore leaves are not as detrimental.

Sycamore Trees Have Shallow Roots (And Competition)

Sycamore trees grow fast, using their spreading roots to take up as much water and nutrients as they can while becoming established.

Their shallow roots mean there is going to be competition between the sycamore tree and whatever plants you decide to put beneath them.

Plants that require high nutrient content and lots of water will not do well under a sycamore tree. They may also steal vital water and nutrients that otherwise would go to the sycamore.

Sometimes too much competition can cause a sycamore tree to atrophy or rot. In these cases, you may need to cut down your sycamore!

Sycamore Tree Soil Conditions Don’t Favor Many Plant Types

Sycamore trees are very adaptable to different conditions. They aren’t picky about soil texture, PH, or moisture level.

An article in the Journal of Forests found that sycamore trees are often used to reclaim disturbed sites such as surface coal mines where soil conditions are poor and even toxic to other trees.

Because of this wide variety of adaptable conditions, sycamores may be growing in soil that isn’t conducive to certain landscape plants. The PH may be off, the soil texture may be wrong, or the soil may hold too much moisture.

A soil test will help narrow down exactly what conditions your sycamore tree is growing in. It can tell you the type of soil as well as the PH and nutrient levels.

Plants You Shouldn’t Grow Beneath A Sycamore Tree

In general, plants that require full sun, are heavy feeders, or require lots of water will not do well under a sycamore tree.

Let’s check out all the plants you shouldn’t grow under these massive trees.

Impatiens

We’re starting off with a flower that may surprise you. Impatiens do well in shade, so why can’t you plant them beneath a sycamore tree?

Impatiens can tolerate deep shade and will struggle if placed in full sun unless they are a full-sun variety. These annuals bloom in the spring and will produce flowers in a variety of colors.

The problem with impatiens is that they wilt quickly if drought-stressed. Being planted under a sycamore tree means the impatiens must compete for water sources.

If you are willing to consistently water your impatiens and provide them with plant food fertilizer, they might be able to survive under a sycamore tree. However, they will thrive better in a container on the porch or in a shady flower bed.

English Ivy

A European native, English ivy is an evergreen groundcover plant. If left unhindered, English ivy can creep up to 90 feet long, covering a substantial amount of ground.

English ivy is another plant that can tolerate the deep shade that would be found under a sycamore tree. The problem is that English ivy is invasive and will grow and grow and grow!

According to the University of Tennessee, English ivy will climb up the trunk of trees and eventually weigh down smaller branches and block sunlight.

Unless you are willing to put some serious work into pruning and trimming back English ivy, it should not be planted under a sycamore tree. 

Coneflower

Close up of beautiful purple cone flowers (echinacea) with phloxes in the background

Coneflowers thrive in hardiness zones 3 through 9, right alongside sycamore trees. These herbaceous perennials bloom in summer and fall, producing pink or white flowers that resemble daisies.

Growing between 2 and 5 feet, coneflowers fit the right size to be planted under a sycamore tree. Unfortunately, they will not thrive.

Coneflowers prefer to be in full sun and will struggle in the shade cast by large sycamore trees. If the flowers are left on the plant throughout winter, they can become somewhat invasive and spread rapidly as well.

Peonies

It’s hard to beat peonies when it comes to flower size. They are so large that they can sometimes fall over under their own weight!

According to the University of Wisconsin-Madison, peonies will grow to about 3 feet tall and typically bloom in late spring.

Despite their beautiful flowers and easy maintenance, peonies will not thrive under a sycamore tree. Peonies do best in full sun and will struggle if they have to compete for water and nutrients.

Peonies are best planted on their own or with low-maintenance neighbors that will not outcompete them for resources.

Geraniums

Geraniums are popular flowers grown in hanging baskets and flower beds. Many different cultivars will produce flowers ranging from reds and pinks to blues and purples.

These spectacular flowers usually bloom in early summer and will last until the first hard frost. You can expect them to thrive in a flower bed or pot, but they will struggle under a sycamore tree.

Geraniums prefer full sun, making them a poor companion to a sycamore tree. Geraniums that can sneak 3 or 4 hours of sunlight under a sycamore may survive, but they will not bloom as well as they would if placed in full sun.

Delphiniums

The striking color and shape of delphinium flowers make them a favorite of many gardeners. These tall stalks produce brilliant blues, whites, and purples in the summer. If you cut the flowers immediately, delphinium may bloom again in the fall.

Delphiniums are perennials but they are short-lived, often needing to be replaced after just 2 or 3 years. They will grow between 2 and 6 feet, depending on growing conditions and the hybrid variety.

We wish delphinium would thrive under a sycamore tree, but it just won’t. They prefer full sun conditions and are heavy feeders, making planting under a sycamore tree difficult. 

Delphiniums may not do well under a sycamore tree, but they will thrive when planted in a perennial flower bed if placed near the back so as not to block other flowers from view.

Spider Flowers

dark pink spider flower, closeup of a Cleome blossom, blurry background

Spider flowers got their name from the long, thin stamens that resemble the legs of spiders. But don’t worry, this flower isn’t spooky or scary like spiders. The flowers are colorful, ranging from white, purple, and pink.

Also known as spider legs or grandfather’s whiskers, spider flowers bloom in early summer and will stick around until the first frost. 

Spider flowers do best in full sun conditions if you want the most bloom for your buck. In addition to their sun requirements, spider flowers are annuals, making them a high-maintenance plant that you would have to replant each year.

According to the University of Wisconsin-Madison, Spider flowers are also prickly and sticky, making it a bit of a hassle to take care of during the growing season as you will want to wear gloves.

The nice thing about spider flowers is that they attract so much wildlife. Bees, butterflies, beetles, hummingbirds, hummingbird moths, and even bats will pollinate the flowers!

Astilbe

A China native, Astilbe has an exotic appearance with whispy pink, white, or violet flowers and dark green foliage. Astilbes are perennials that will come back year after year.

There are plenty of positive attributes of astilbe. They can tolerate partial shade, they are non-invasive, and their flowers remain attractive all winter long.

Astilbes are also easy to take care of, requiring little water or care. Depending on the variety, they may be as small as 1 foot tall or as large as 6 feet tall.

So, what makes them a bad candidate for planting under a sycamore tree?

The only downside to astilbe is that it is a heavy feeder. This means it will compete against your sycamore tree for nutrients. 

Vinca

Also known as periwinkle, vinca has attractive foliage and flowers. The flowers vary in color depending on the cultivar but can be red, pink, purple, blue, or yellow.

Vinca does best when planted in full sun, preferring at least 8 hours a day. The shade thrown by a sycamore tree is going to be too much for vincas to survive beneath.

Another downside to vinca is that they can be invasive. They are a creeping vine and can creep their way all over your flower bed, choking out other plants if you don’t keep a watchful eye out and prune when necessary.

Other than their sun requirements and invasiveness, vincas are low-maintenance plants that are used to surviving in dry conditions. These resilient plants do not require fertilizer and can get a bit leggy if given too much water.

Chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums, also known as just mums, can be grown as perennials but they are more commonly grown as annuals in the regions where sycamore trees grow.

The BEST thing about mums is that they bring a burst of color in the fall when they bloom. Compared to the other plants around them that are slowing down, mums bring life and color back to the yard.

Mums come in a variety of colors and the flowers will attract butterflies. When grown as a perennial in warmer climates, mums will bloom from fall to spring.

Mums will not do well planted under a sycamore tree. These colorful flowers prefer full sun conditions and are considered heavy feeders that will compete with your sycamore for nutrients.

If you simply want a beautiful splash of color for a few weeks in the fall, annual mums can survive under a sycamore tree. However, they will not bloom as well and will not come back the following year.

Lupines

Lupines are wildflowers that produce interesting spires of colorful flowers and attractive foliage. They make a beautiful addition to the flower garden.

These astounding plants can be grown as annuals or perennials, depending on the cultivar and the climate where they are growing.

While lupines can grow in shade, they prefer full sun and you’ll get a better display of flowers if they’re placed in full sun. Lupines also prefer acidic soil and will struggle in alkaline soil. 

The soil PH can be a problem since sycamores can grow in both acidic and alkaline soils. If it is growing on alkaline soils, lupines will have a hard time adapting.

What Plants Can Live Under A Sycamore Tree?

Growing plants under trees is a tricky business. With sycamores, you add on a broader area of shade and throw a curveball with their huge leaves that can change the nutrient content of the soil.

What kind of plants can live under a sycamore tree? Anything planted under a sycamore tree should be shade tolerant, low maintenance, and adaptable to different soil conditions.

Despite these obstacles, you have a lot of options when it comes to planting under a sycamore tree. Some of the BEST plants that can live under a sycamore tree include the following:

  • Jasmine
  • Barrenwort
  • Azalea
  • Ferns
  • Brunnera
  • Solomon’s seal
  • Hellebores
  • Meadow rue

All of these plants are low-maintenance, shade tolerant, and adaptable. 

Just because these plants grow in shade doesn’t mean their flowers are dull! Most of these plants produce colorful flowers at different times of the year, making the space under your sycamore tree pop with eye-catching color.

You can read more about the best plants to grow under a sycamore tree here if you’d like!

How To Help Plants Thrive Under A Sycamore Tree

If you’ve chosen a plant to grow under your sycamore tree, it’s time to take a few steps to ensure it stays happy and healthy.

This fertilizer comes in a 5lb bag and is in granule form that can be spread around the dripline of your sycamore tree. This will help alleviate any competition between your landscape plant and sycamore tree.

  • Give plants enough water: Sycamore tree roots are shallow and will compete with landscape plants for water. Make sure you give your plants enough water, especially if they start showing signs of drought stress such as yellowing leaves or wilting.
  • Pick the right spot for your plant: Take a good look at the growing conditions of your chosen plant. If it requires deep shade, plant it in a spot that gets little sun. if it requires partial shade, try to find a spot that gets morning or afternoon sun.

Alternatives For Under A Sycamore Tree

Knowing which plants can and can’t grow under a sycamore is great if you’re willing to dedicate some time and effort to selecting the right plants.

If you’d rather not deal with it, there are other options for the space under your sycamore tree.

  • Plant grass: shade tolerant grass like Scotts Turf Builder Grass Seed Dense Shade Mix will sprout with as little as 3 hours of sunlight. It comes in a 3lb bag with the option of upgrading to a 7lb bag if necessary.
  • Mulch: Mulch looks just as good on its own when placed around a sycamore tree. It makes the area look landscaped without the trouble of taking care of flowers. Be sure to keep the mulch at least 6 inches away from the trunk.

That’s A Wrap!

Sycamore trees will catch the eye of any passerby and is sure to be the statement piece of your yard. They are fast-growing and capable of adapting to different conditions.

The space under a sycamore tree will be shady, making planting difficult. Any plant that requires full sun, is a heavy feeder or needs a lot of water will struggle under a sycamore tree.

Now, for a quick recap:

The 11 plants that shouldn’t be planted under a sycamore tree include:

  • Impatiens
  • English Ivy
  • Coneflower
  • Peonies
  • Geraniums
  • Delphinium
  • Spider flower
  • Astilbe
  • Vinca (periwinkle)
  • Mums
  • Lupines

Instead of these plants, opt for low-maintenance plants that are shade tolerant and adaptable to dry conditions. You certainly don’t want your landscape plants competing with your sycamore tree for resources!

References

Jiang, Z.-D., Owens, P. R., Ashworth, A. J., Fuentes, B. A., Thomas, A. L., Sauer, T. J., & Wang, Q.-B. (2021, October 27). Evaluating tree growth factors into species-specific functional soil maps for improved agroforestry system efficiency. Agroforestry Systems96, 479-490. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10457-021-00693-9

Lee, E. H., Andersen, C. P., Beedlow, P. A., Tingey, D. T., Koike, S., Dubois, J.-J., Kaylor, D., Novak, K., Rice, R. B., Neufeld, H. S., & Herrick, J. D. (2022). Ozone exposure-response relationships parametrized for sixteen tree species with varying sensitivity in the United States. Atmospheric Environment284. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1352231022002564

Mackie-Dawson, L. A., Millard, P., & Proe, M. F. (1995, June 01). The effect of nitrogen supply on root growth and development in sycamore and Sitka spruce trees. Forestry: An International Journal of Forest Research68(2), 107-114. https://academic.oup.com/forestry/article-abstract/68/2/107/522278

Sena, K., Agouridis, C., Miller, J., & Barton, C. (2018, December 18). Spoil Type Influences Soil Genesis and Forest Development on an Appalachian Surface Coal Mine Ten Years after Placement. Forests9(12), 780. https://www.mdpi.com/1999-4907/9/12/780/htm

If you’re lucky enough to have a big maple on your property, you know the joy it can bring – hearing the wind blow through the leaves, enjoying the cool shade in summer, watching the leaves turn vibrant autumn colors. Maybe you are also struggling with a bare patch beneath it where nothing seems to survive. What plants can you grow under a maple tree… and what plants aren’t even worth a try?

Maple trees have a shallow root system where plants underneath will compete for nutrients and water. Avoid planting goldenrod, aster, English ivy, oriental bittersweet, wisteria, field bindweed, bishops weed, honeysuckle, clover, and hostas directly below your maple tree.

With proper landscaping, a mature maple can be a gorgeous centerpiece to your yard. So whether you’re fixing patchy areas beneath your big trees, or whether you’re planting young maples and want to give them a good start in life, read on to learn how to keep your marvelous maples healthy and looking good!

What Are Maple Trees – And Where Do They Grow?

Maples are attractive, easy-to-grow trees found in cultivated gardens and wild forests across the Northern Hemisphere. Some have colorful leaves, others interesting bark, and a few, like the valuable sugar maple (Acer saccharum), provide sap that can be boiled down into tasty maple syrup! There’s over triple digit species of maples in the world, so there’s plenty of trees to go around.

According to Oregon State University, thirteen species of maple tree are native to North America.

In the West, expect to see bigleaf (A. macrophyllum) and vine maple (A. circinatum). Midwestern forests are home to the boxelder (A. negundo), which has the largest range of any North American maple. The red maple (A. rubrum) dominates the East, although the fast-growing silver maple (A. saccharinum) is nearly as common.

In yards and urban areas, you are more likely to encounter one of the many varieties of Japanese maple (A. palmatum), a smaller species that can sometimes be no larger than a shrub, or the Norway maple (A. platanoides), a non-native that spreads so aggressively it has been classified as an invasive species by the USDA

Learning about the growth stages and patterns of your maple tree is important as well. For more information, check out our full timeline of maple tree growth!

The Challenge To Growing Plants Under Maple Trees

The needs of maple trees vary widely between seasons – however, all seasons typically lead to something not allowing plants to grow well under your maple tree.

Maple Leaves Can Block Sunlight To Plants

In the summer, their dense foliage creates a wall of leaves that completely blocks the sunlight from any plants directly beneath them. 

When their lower branches no longer get sunlight, either from their own shade or from a neighboring plant, they will shed those branches and redirect energy into overtopping the surrounding plants. (You can read more about the reasons trees lose their branches here.)

In the fall, the blanket of leaves dropped by maples can smother anything growing beneath them, creating an environment that invites fungus, slugs, and other pests if left to rot in place.

Decomposing leaf litter can also make the pH of soil more acidic over time, further inhibiting competition from other nearby plants.

So, won’t grow well when this happens, but typically that’s in fall. More acidic soil will limit the types of plants that can potentially thrive under your maple.

Maple Tree Roots Stay Close To The Surface

The root system of maples is dense and shallow, with larger roots often breaking the surface while smaller, hairlike ones form a dense mat just underneath the soil. In most species, root growth is not aggressive enough to harm other plants and buildings.

The exceptions are Norway and silver maples, as noted by the USDA, both of which can cause damage to pavement and plumbing.

Since maple trees have dense roots, they tend to suck up all the moisture in the surrounding area during their growing season.

This makes it so that these roots more actively compete with plants, regardless of how deep those plants roots go. In small numbers, it’s OK. However when you get a high maintenance plant, it can become an issue.

Maples Require A Lot Of Water

At the height of summer, a maple tree requires about 10 gallons of water, weekly, for every inch of caliper (the diameter of the trunk measured above ground).

However, in the winter, dormant maples take up little water, leading to muddy, soggy soil in areas with heavy rainfall and poor drainage.

Maple trees also require a large quantity of sunlight, with their canopy blocking the sun from anything under them. Learn more about your maple tree’s need for sun here!

Now, since they need all that water AND have shallow roots, that means that your maple tree really need any water that comes down naturally. So, the only way to make sure that plants can actually grow under your tree are to choose low maintenance ones that you actively water, along with your maple tree.

Plants That You Shouldn’t Grow Under Maple Trees

Some plants that might thrive close to your maple come with other complications. Now, this list isn’t to say you CAN’T plant these plants under your maple tree, but just know that it really could impact your maple tree’s longevity in a negative way.

Think of the area around the maple tree like a nice, big ol’ blackberry pie. If you have the pie all to yourself, you get ALL THE PIE. If you bring it to a multi-family gathering, then you have to share the pie and thus, have some competition on getting a slice.

So, let your maple tree have it’s pie and DON’T grow these plants under your maple tree in order to avoid competition.

Also – I think that’s my favorite maple tree to pie analogy ever 🙂

Beech Trees

Beech are beautiful, long-lived trees beloved for their wide canopies and useful wood products, nuts, and syrup. Since beech and maple trees often grow together in the wild, you might suppose a beech would make a good companion plant for your tree. 

However, beech trees naturally replace maple trees in forest succession, as shown by this USDA study. Beech trees will eventually crowd your maples out, although that might be a problem you pass down to your grandkids!

Now, when we say “under” your tree, you obviously won’t plant a tree under another tree, but I’m speaking a bit more about planting beech trees (and black walnut which I’ll discuss in a second) relatively close to each other.

Black Walnut Trees

Black walnut trees are allelopathic plants, meaning that they secrete chemicals that inhibit the growth of other nearby plants.

Many maples are tolerant of black walnut’s chemical secretion, also called juglone, making them one of the few trees that can grow nearby, but if your maples are facing other stressors like drought or insufficient sunlight, you’ll want to separate them as much as you can from walnuts. Silver maples are especially susceptible to damage from black walnut trees.

Read more about walnut allelopathy in our guide: 20 Plants Not To Grow Under A Black Walnut Tree.

Goldenrod And Aster


The beautiful perennials are both part of the aster family and grow well together, creating a rich environment for honeybees and other pollinators.

However, research published in Canadian Journal of Forest Research has shown that these flowers, like walnut trees, release allelopathic chemicals in the soil that can inhibit the growth of maples, especially if you are trying to introduce young trees.

Unless your maple is already well-established, you should keep your goldenrods and asters well away from its root system.

Grapes

During their growing season, grape vines will reach across gaps and begin growing in the branches of your maple tree. The dead wood that accumulates on a grapevine can weigh down and weaken your maple, causing more of its branches to break off during winter storms.

Over time, a grapevine can even cover a maple tree enough to block it from getting sufficient sunlight.

Virginia Creeper

According to the University of Wisconsin, Virginia creeper, native to much of North America, can grow up to 20 feet in a single year. Like grape, it can grow into the branches of your maple, shading the tree and eventually leading to it’s end.

Unlike grape, the berries of Virginia creeper are not for human consumption and the vine itself contains a sap that causes more issues to boot. Don’t plant it.

English Ivy, Oriental Bittersweet, And Chinese/Japanese Wisteria

Attractive and hardy, these invasive ornamentals have become a plague across many forests in North America, covering and eliminating native plants that wildlife rely on for food and shelter.

You might be tempted to green up the bare patch beneath your maple tree with English ivy, bittersweet, or wisteria. Don’t. All three of these aggressive plants will grow up into the branches of your tree, cutting off sunlight and ending your maple section by section.

Field Bindweed

Close up of convolvulus arvensis or field bindweed flower blooming on meadow

Sometimes confused with morning glory, field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) is one of the more difficult invasive weeds to control once established.

Field bindweed can get into the branches of your maple and strangle it just like other aggressive vines.

In addition, the roots of bindweed can go as deep as 20 feet, according to the University of California, intertwining with the roots of your maple tree. Once this happens, your options for using herbicide are limited, and you’ll have to pull it by hand wherever it comes up to keep it from spreading.

Bishop’s Weed

Also called goutweed, this groundcover is sometimes advertised as “Snow on the Mountain” or “ground elder.” Sounds innocent, but Bishop’s weed is a noxious invasive that spreads so aggressively it’s illegal to sell in several states.

Your maples will struggle to get the water and nutrients they need in the summer when their root zone is covered by dense patches of Bishop’s weed, and to make matters worse, bishop’s weed irritates the skin if you try to pull it by hand. Look for the scientific name–Aegopodium podagraria–and avoid it.

Japanese/Amur Honeysuckle

Japanese Honeysuckle
Japanese Honeysuckle

Although many species of honeysuckle native to North America are great sources of food to pollinators like honeybees and hummingbirds, two invasive varieties, the Japanese and Amur, are aggressive enough to slow down the growth of your maples.

Both have extensive root systems that can reduce the availability of nutrients in the soil for other plants, and once established, both are difficult to eradicate. In addition, Japanese honeysuckle can send vines into your maple that can gird its trunk and branches, strangling it.

Hosts Of The Ambrosia Beetle

If you have Japanese maples, you’ll need to be on the watch for tiny “toothpicks” of sawdust sticking out of the trunk, a sign that your tree has been infested by granulated ambrosia beetles. First introduced in North America in the 1970s, these pests are a serious problem, difficult to treat, and fatal to young Japanese maples.

One way you can protect your maples is by steering clear of other species frequented by the ambrosia beetle: pecans, plums, peaches, apples, persimmons, figs, ornamental cherries, dogwoods, magnolias, azaleas, rhododendrons, Shumard oaks, Chinese elms, sweetgums, golden rain trees, redbud, crapemyrtle, and plants from the genus Syrax.

If you bring any of these plants back from the nursery, including any new Japanese maples, be aware that the ambrosia beetle might hitch a ride into your yard. Since the beetles can travel several miles a year, planting away from your maple won’t stop the spread. 

Fortunately, ambrosia beetles are less likely to attack a healthy tree, another reason you should avoid planting beneath your maple in a way that weakens its health.

Plants That Don’t Stand A Chance Under Maple Trees

Don’t waste money buying plants that will parish beneath your maples. Anything that requires full sunlight won’t stand a chance, and plants that have specific moisture needs, especially ones with shallow root systems, will be in constant competition with the dense surface roots of your maples

(Hint… the maples usually win!)

You should remove the leaves that accumulate around the base of your maples each autumn to prevent pests and rot in your trees. This means you’ll also want to avoid plants that can’t take a little rough handling from rakes and leaf blowers.

Here are some types to avoid:

Grass

Most types of lawn grasses won’t be able to tolerate the shade beneath your maple to grow properly. If the area around your tree is clear enough to let morning and evening sun reach beneath it, you may be able to grow some of the more shade-resistant varieties like creeping red fescue and supine bluegrass.

Even if you can find a variety that tolerates what little sun reaches under your maple, your grass will be constantly deprived of water and nutrients in the summer when your maple is at its greediest.

Grasses that continue to grow throughout the winter face a different problem, as the area beneath a dormant maple tree can easily become over-saturated with rainwater without the maple roots to absorb it.

Be aware that grasses growing in the shade, even shade-resistant varieties, develop shallow root systems. If you are successful in establishing a lawn beneath your maple tree, consider using a leaf blower in the fall instead of a rake to keep from accidentally pulling up the more-fragile grass.

Clover

Clover is not only great for pollinators like bees, but with its ability to capture and return nitrogen to the soil, it plays an important role for other plants in your yard. Clover that grows near your maple will help it.

However, almost all varieties of clover have high water demands. Unless you can provide extra irrigation during the driest months, clover will have a hard time getting established.

Hostas

Although hostas can survive the harsh growing conditions underneath maple trees for a while, after a few years, maple roots will invade the root ball of the hosta and slowly choke it out.

A hosta beneath a maple tree will decline in health gradually, even if the first year or two looks like a success!

So What Can I Plant Under My Maple Tree?

Maples are successful at inhibiting growth beneath them, but don’t give up! There are several plants that will survive in the shade of a maple tree:

Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Plants from bulbs that emerge in the spring can get enough light to bloom before a maple leafs out for the summer.

These types of plants, called spring ephemerals, include: bluebells, daffodils, snowdrops, crocuses, anemones, and hyacinth.

Ferns

Green growing fern leaves in nature. Sun light

Ferns unfurl new growth in the spring while maple trees are still dormant, and many can survive both heavy summer shade and damp winter soil. Try varieties like maidenhair fern, lady fern, wood fern, or cinnamon fern.

Sword ferns can also thrive beneath a maple, although competition from the tree often dwarfs their height to only a few feet tall.

Mondo Grass

If you are determined to grow something similar to a lawn beneath your maple, mondo grass might be your solution. Certain varieties, like dwarf mondo and black mondo, can tolerate the varying conditions beneath a maple tree.

Mondo grass spreads slowly over time to fill in gaps, and because it stops growing after it reaches a certain height, you don’t have to mow it. Mondo isn’t a true grass but is more closely related to lilies.

Shade-Loving Plants

There are a wide variety of other groundcovers and low-growing plants that may succeed in the shade of your maple depending on your climate and the specific conditions beneath your tree.

Plants that do well with maple trees include creeping phlox, rose champion, epimedium, lily of the valley, periwinkle, and Solomon’s seal.

Drought-tolerant moss can flourish over an undisturbed area beneath your tree, although because moss clings to soil with fragile rhizoids instead of roots, it can be difficult to establish.

Whatever you plant, you’ll have better luck if you enrich the soil under your maple with a few inches of compost and plan to provide extra water to the area in the summer months, especially as your new plants are getting started. You can also prune up some of the lower branches of your maple tree, or some of the upper ones to introduce more light to the ground below.

If you want an even more detailed look at what you can plant under your maple tree, check out our list!

Alternative Solutions To Plants Under Your Maple Tree

Maple tree in autumn colors on Mount-Royal in Montreal, Canada.

Let’s face it, your maple wants to dominate the soil beneath it. You’ll have to cut through its roots to plant anything, and anything you plant will be in direct competition with your tree for moisture and nutrients.

Don’t want to fight that battle? Here are some other solutions you might consider:

Mulch

Encircling the base of your maple with wood chips or another type of mulch can be an attractive alternative to a groundcover. When you mulch around your maple, be careful not to put down too much.

Maple roots need to be close to the surface to exchange oxygen, so you should never apply more than a few inches over the root zone to at least the dripline (the edge of the tree’s canopy). Don’t pile up mulch against the tree, which can encourage disease and rot, but leave a mulch-free area about 12 to 18 inches around the trunk.

Maple roots need to have good airflow with the surface, so avoid using large rocks or pavers to cover the area beneath a tree.

Smaller stones like pea gravel can work as a mulch alternative, but this can cause problems when you need to clean the seeds, blooms, and leaves your tree will drop throughout the year. It can be difficult to rake or blow maple leaves without mixing in whatever you have laid around the base of the tree.

You may also need a good fertilizer, which you can take a look at our list of best maple tree fertilizers here.

Create A Charming Place to Rest

If you’re dealing with a big, mature maple, why not enjoy its cool summer shade for yourself? 

Beneath a tree is a brilliant spot for a standalone hammock or reading chair. Incorporate your maple into the space by using something like this circular tree garden bench by Design Toscano.

You can brighten your seating area even more with container plants. Hang containers from sturdy branches or elevate them with plant stands.

Just make sure you don’t affect the roots of your maple too much—no heavy pots that rest directly on the ground—and choose plants that can tolerate the shade.

Feed The Birds

Not all wild birds appreciate a hanging bird feeder.

Some, like juncos and towhees, prefer to feed on the ground, while others, like blackbirds, will purposely knock seed down from feeders for the rest of the flock below. Some, like flickers and doves, struggle to find a perch on small feeders.

Ground-feeding birds do a good job tearing up any plants trying to grow where birdseed falls. If you have a large maple, use this to your advantage!

If nothing seems to grow beneath your maple, designate the area as a feeding spot. Hang feeders in the branches and scatter seed for ground feeders.

The activity of birds will weed out almost everything that tries to grow while also providing bonus nutrients for your tree. 

That’s A Wrap!

Maple trees are wonderful for their summer shade and vibrant fall colors. No matter what kind you have, you’ll want to take care of it so it can continue to color your yard for many years to come.

But to care for your maple, you need to think about what’s happening beneath the surface of the soil. Your maple wants to create a dense, shallow root system to absorb every last bit of water and nutrients, and so anything you try planting beneath it will be in direct competition with your tree.

Now, for a quick recap.

You should avoid planting the following under your maple tree:

  • Other trees that will outcompete your maple, like beech and black walnut
  • Plants with allelopathic chemicals, like goldenrod and aster
  • Vines that can choke your tree, like grape, Virginia creeper, English ivy, oriental bittersweet, Chinese/Japanese wisteria, and field bindweed
  • Aggressive invasive plants, like bishop’s weed, Japanese honeysuckle, and Amur honeysuckle
  • Plants that introduce ambrosia beetles
  • Plants that your maple will outcompete, like grass, clover, and hostas

Hopefully this article will help you avoid choosing something you’ll regret down the road while giving you some excellent alternatives. If you’re interested in planting a maple tree, check out our guide on the best maple trees to plant!

Just remember, respect the root zone of your tree, use good companion plants or non-plant alternatives, and you’ll have a happy maple!

Thanks for reading!

References

Carl H. Tubbs, Allelopathic Relationship between Yellow Birch and Sugar Maple Seedlings, Forest Science, Volume 19, Issue 2, June 1973, Pages 139–145.

Elizabeth Anne France, Dan Binkley, and David Valentine. Soil chemistry changes after 27 years under four tree species in southern Ontario. Canadian Journal of Forest Research. 19(12): 1648-1650.

Galbraith-Kent, S.L. and S.N. Handel. 2008. Invasive Acer platanoides inhibits native sapling growth in forest understorey communities. Journal of Ecology 96:293-302 R. F. Fisher, R. A. Woods, and M. R. Glavicic. Allelopathic effects of goldenrod and aster on young sugar maple. Canadian Journal of Forest Research. 8(1): 1-9.

Veselkin, D.V., Rafikova, O.S. Effects of Water Extracts from the Leaves of Boxelder Maple Acer negundo and Native Tree Species on the Early Development of Plants. Russ J Ecol 53, 59–67 (2022).

Van life isn’t for everyone, but for those who seek adventure, live in the moment, and don’t mind skipping shower day every once in a while, it’s the perfect lifestyle. There’s plenty of beauty to be seen in nature, but you can also bring beauty to the inside of your van by growing potted flowers. 

Some of the easiest, hassle-free flowers you can grow in your van include forget-me-nots, pansies, begonias, sweet Alyssum, marigolds, impatiens, Gerber daisies, and lobelia. These flowers are extremely durable and have minimal maintenance requirements.

Having a potted plant inside your van will breathe life into your tiny home and provide an oasis on those rainy days when you’re stuck in the van. Read on to discover the ten easiest flowers you can grow in your van.

Why Grow Flowers In Your Van?

As much as social media would like us to believe it, van life is not a luxurious lifestyle. You live in a very small space packed with only the necessities. 

While flowers may seem like a luxury, they have a lot of surprising benefits. 

According to an article in the Journal of ChemTech Research, one potted plant per 100 square feet of indoor space is sufficient to clean pollutants from the air. 

And since the average space inside a van is far less than 100 square feet, your single plant will have no problem keeping the air clean inside your van.

In addition to the biological benefits of cleaning the air, ornamental plants provide psychological benefits, too. An article in the Journal of Sustainability found that indoor plants boost mood. 

Specifically, indoor plants cause an increase in positive emotions and a reduction in negative emotions. Indoor plants can also cause a change in pain perception, making you feel less pain than you do (which is bound to help after a long hike!).

So, while potted plants may seem like a luxury you don’t need, they’re useful to have around when you live in a small space.

The best part? The plants on this list are EASY to take care of, so you can spend time adventuring instead of worrying about your plants.

How To Grow Flowers In Your Van

Homegrown and aromatic herbs in old clay pots. Set of culinary herbs. Green growing sage, oregano, thyme, basil, mint and oregano.

You can grow flowers in a stationary home, so why not a van?! While growing potted flowers is a little easier than growing edible plants in a van, it still comes with some tricky challenges.

Before you choose which potted plant to grow in your van, you’ll want to address some obvious obstacles:

  • Space
  • Type of pot
  • Sunlight
  • Temperature

Let’s address the elephant in the room first: Space!

Choose The Right Location For Your Van life Flowers

There are a lot of differences between living in a van and living in a home. You can’t have breakable things, you have to be able to secure everything down for when you are driving, and you have limited space.

With all that in mind, you’ll want to pick the right spot in your van so that your plant is secure yet movable, out of the way, gets enough sun, and won’t topple over when driving.

Here are some creative locations where you can place and store your potted flowers:

  • Hang Your Flowers From Your Storage Cabinets: Most van setups will have some type of cabinets near the headspace that offers storage. Consider hanging your flowers from the bottom of the cabinets by a hook.
  • Use Magnets To Keep Your Potted Flowers In Place: Magnets are a savior in the van. They can hold kitchen utensils, keep drawers closed while driving, and keep your potted flowers in place!

Lovimag’s Neodymium Disk Countersunk Hole Magnets can hold up to 26 pounds of weight. Affix one magnet to your potted flower and the other wherever you want to place your flower.

You can screw the magnet into your countertop and keep your flower on your countertop while driving or even affix it to a wall to save space.

  • Suction Cups Will Keep Your Flowers Close To A Window: Conbola’s Heavy-Duty Suction Cups With Hooks will hold up to 22 pounds. You can affix the suction cups to the window and hang your potted flowers there. This has the added benefit of providing your flowers with sunlight.

Wherever you decide to place your potted flowers, be sure they can be removed from that location. You’ll want to place your flowers outside when your van is stationary to provide adequate sunlight and air circulation.

You also want to be able to water your potted flowers outdoors so that you do not fill up your gray tank unnecessarily.

If you’d like to learn more, take a look at our piece on why you actually don’t need to water plants everyday!

One thing you don’t want to do is glue or nail your flower pot in a permanent location.

Choose A Non-Rigid Pot For Your Van life Flowers

Basil plant in a pot on  windowsill. Kitchen cooking herbs.

Ceramic pots are pretty, making a nice accent piece for your porch or windowsill. But the thing about ceramic is that it’s breakable.

And breakable things have to go when you live in a moving vehicle.

So, no ceramic, clay, or glass pots; what about hard plastic? Hard plastic is better than ceramic, clay, or glass, but it’s still a rigid container.

You want something that can mold too small or tight places for van life. You want a container that’s just as flexible as your lifestyle. For this reason, fabric pots are the way to go.

AC Infinity’s Heavy Duty Fabric Pots are an excellent choice. These come in various sizes, from 1-gallon to 25-gallons and are made of durable fabric that can be reused. Some of the sizes can even support fruit growth in your van!

The nice thing about fabric pots is that they can be folded down when not used, which is a plus when space is limited.

Give Your Flowers Enough Sunlight

Sunlight is something you’ll never be in shortage of when you live the van lifestyle. However, your indoor flowers may need some additional help with sunlight.

The plants on our list range from full-sun flowers to partial-shade flowers. Placing your flowers outdoors when you park your van can help give them the extra boost of sunlight they need to produce more flowers.

When you can’t put your flowers outside, consider parking your van so that the window faces either south or west so that it captures the most sunlight.

If you’re worried your plants aren’t getting enough sunlight, consider supplementing with grow lights. GHodec’s Grow Light for Indoor Plants includes blue, white, and red lighting for plants. 

These colors naturally mimic the sun’s wavelengths to give your plant’s the closest thing to natural sunlight. The lights also come with a clamp so you can connect them anywhere in your van, and you know they won’t fall over, even while in motion.

The best part about these grow lights is that they are powered via a 5-volt/2.4amp USB cord, the same amount of power you would use to charge your phone.

Keep The Temperature Regulated Inside Your Van

Weekend warriors might be able to get away without insulating their vans. After all, it’s just a couple of days of living in your van.

However, full-time van-lifers know the importance of insulation. It helps to keep hot air out and cool air so that the inside of your van feels comfortable on hot days. And during those colder nights, insulation will keep your van nice and toasty.

Keeping the temperature regulated inside your van is also important for your potted flowers. Some flowers can withstand fluctuating temperatures, but others are very sensitive, warm-weather-only plants that won’t do well in a van that drops 20 degrees at night.

You can use a light sheet or clothing to protect your plants if you know the temperature will drop significantly. But otherwise, you should only grow flowers in your van if you can somewhat regulate the temperature.

12 Easy Flowers To Grow In Your Van

Now onto the good stuff! What flowers are easy to grow and can withstand the mobile lifestyle? Surprisingly, there are a lot.

Very quick, you can view our overall list of the best plants to grow in your van if you’re looking for more non-flower types!

Grow Forget-Me-Nots In Vans

Macro shot of field forget me nots (myosotis arvensis) in bloom.

Forget-me-nots are known for being short flowers, which works to our advantage since we want flowers that fit in a van.

These flowers should be grown from seed and are considered low maintenance. According to North Carolina State University, forget-me-nots need less than 12 inches of space to grow.

There are many varieties of forget-me-nots, each with different characteristics and colors. Most forget-me-nots are blue with a white or yellow iris.

It’s recommended to plant seeds a few months before the last frost. Even if you are van-living in strictly warm temperatures, the thing that tells a plant whether to sprout or not has to do with the length of the days, not necessarily the temperature.

Light: Forget-me-nots appreciate full sun to partial shade. Around 3-6 hours of sun should be sufficient.

Soil: Use organically rich soil for forget-me-nots. Burpee’s Premium Organic Potting Natural Soil Mix is a good choice and contains organically-rich materials.

Water: Keep the soil moist without leaving puddles on the soil.

Bloom: Forget-me-nots bloom for a short period in April and May and sometimes re-blooms mid-summer.

Grow Begonias In Your Van

Most flowers on this list will have a ton of different varieties to choose from. Begonias are no different. 

Wax, rex, and rhizomatous begonias are going to be the best species of begonia for van life. They stay relatively small and are the easiest to care for. You can grow them from seed or find a nice potted begonia at a local garden center.

Some begonia species are very cold-sensitive, so make sure you keep the space inside your van at a comfortable temperature.

Light: Partial shade. Begonias need a little direct sunlight for their flowers to bloom, but too much sun will scorch the leaves.

Soil: Begonias do well with potting soil that contains peat moss. Baby Violet’s All-Purpose Indoor Houseplant Potting Soil Mix Peat Moss & Perlite is a great choice.

Water: Begonias should be watered frequently, but the plants are overwatered if the buds begin to drop.

Bloom: Most begonia species will bloom from summer until late fall.

Sweet Alyssum Can Grow Well In Vans

Sweet Alyssum produces beautiful white, pink, or purple flowers and has the added benefit of being very fragrant, providing your van with clean air AND nice smells.

According to the University of Florida, most normal varieties of Sweet Alyssum will bloom in spring and be done by summer. Still, some new varieties like Snow Princess, Frosty Knight, and Dark Knight will last from spring through fall.

You can always check with a local nursery or garden center to see which varieties will bloom the longest. Mostly, Alyssum grown from cuttings (instead of seed) will last the longest.

Light: Sweet Alyssum does well in full sun to partial shade.

Soil: Sweet Alyssum is not too picky with the soil type. A simple all-purpose potting soil will do just fine.

Water: Keep your Sweet Alyssum well-watered, but ensure the soil is not soggy.

Bloom: New varieties will bloom from Spring to Fall. Older varieties bloom in the spring and are typically done by summer due to heat.

You Can Grow Daisies In Vans

Daisies are one of the most popular flowers to purchase as cut flowers, but you can also plant them in containers.

Gerber daisies are a hybrid between two popular species of daisies and come in various colors, including orange, purple, white, and pink, among others.

You can snag a potted daisy plant from a garden center or plant Gerber daisies from seed in your fabric pots. Daisies will grow to about a foot tall and wide.

According to the University of Florida, Gerber daisies may become deficient in iron and manganese. Use a fertilizer like Espoma Organic Iron-tone 3-0-3 Organic Fertilizer about once a month according to the package label and directions.

Light: Provide morning sun and afternoon shade.

Soil: Gerber daisies prefer very well-drained soil. Look for a potting mix on the sandy side, and add some organic material or compost for best results.

Water: Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings.

Bloom: Gerber daisies will bloom Spring through Fall.

Try Growing Marigolds In Your Van

orange merygold blooming

Marigolds are low-maintenance container plants that grow quickly and bloom yellow-orange flowers that will bring color into your van.

Some marigolds can grow up to three feet tall, but smaller varieties like French and Signet Marigolds reach 6-12 inches, which is the perfect size for a van-life container plant!

Marigolds are one of the most forgiving potted flowers and can handle hot temperatures, direct sun, and almost any type of soil.

Light: Marigolds love sun. Give them at least 6 hours per day. You can read more about why marigolds need full sun here.

Soil: Use a lightweight potting mix and add a handful of perlite for best results and better drainage. According to the University of Minnesota, marigolds do not require fertilizer.

Water: Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings. When watering, try to water down to about 2 inches. Marigolds are susceptible to root rot, so do not allow the soil to remain soggy.

Bloom: Marigolds typically bloom from summer until late fall/early winter, after a few hard frosts.

Dwarf Varietie Petunias Can Grow In Vans

Petunias are colorful, tubular-flowered plants that are quite prolific when allowed to spread in a flower bed. 

The best species of petunia to grow in a van will be the dwarf varieties. These include species like Dwarf Mexican Petunias and Katie Dwarf Petunias. These grow between 6 and 12 inches in height and are resistant to pests, which is a plus in the van!

Many petunia varieties are drought tolerant, making them even easier to maintain if you accidentally forget to water them. It’s recommended to plant three petunia plants per 12 inches of pot space.

Light: Give your petunias plenty of sun, at least 6 hours per day.

Soil: Petunias grow best in well-draining soil high in organic matter. Petunias are also heavy feeders. According to Texas A&M University, a high-phosphorous fertilizer does wonders for petunia plants.

Element Nutrient’s Flower Fuel includes a mixture of 1-34-32, meaning the nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium content, respectively. This is a good choice to feed your petunia plants.

Water: Petunias are more drought tolerant than other potted plants. You can allow the top 2 inches of the soil to dry out completely before watering again.

Bloom: Petunias will bloom from Spring to Fall if given the right conditions. 

Easy-To-Grow Impatiens For Your Van

Impatiens are commonly seen in hanging baskets, making them ideal if you plan to hang your plants beneath your cabinet space.

These colorful flowers can grow up to 18 inches tall, so they take up more space than some other flowers on our list. You can grow impatiens from seed or buy flowers already established in a pot from a local garden center. 

According to Iowa State University, the more shade you give your impatiens, the taller the plants will be. So, consider giving your impatiens more direct sun to keep them small and van-sized.

Light: Impatiens prefer partial shade, about 2 to 4 hours of filtered sun per day. The more light you give them, the smaller the plants will be, but the more flowers will bloom.

Soil: Use a run-of-the-mill potting soil that drains well. You can add perlite to improve drainage.

Water: Water your impatiens when the soil surface is dry to the touch.

Bloom: Impatiens will bloom in the spring or beginning of summer and last until the first frost.

Lobelia Can Grow Inside Your Van

Blue lobelia in hanging pots

Unlike many other flowers on our list, lobelia prefers cooler weather. They will not do well in super hot climates, so just be mindful of placing your lobelia outdoors if you stop in a hot desert for the day.

Lobelias varieties can be mounding or trailing. If you plan to hang your lobelia plant, consider getting a trailing variety. Stationary pots will do best with a mounding variety. Lobelias should be planted from seed.

Lobelias come in various colors, including blue, purple, and white. Lobelias do well partnered with other plants in the same container. Some of their preferred partners include:

  • Sweet Alyssum
  • Petunias
  • Impatiens
  • Pansies

All of which are on this list and are also low-maintenance.

Light: You can grow lobelia in full sun when temperatures are cooler. Place them in partial shade when summer temperatures are high.

Soil: Regular, well-draining potting soil works great for lobelia.

Water: Lobelias do not like drying out. Keep the soil moist at all times but do not let the soil become soggy.

Bloom: Depending on the variety, lobelias can be one of the first bloomers in the spring and will bloom again in the fall if conditions are right.

Pansies Are Easy To Grow In A Van

Pansies are another cool-weather plant well-known for having a face on its flowers. They come in a wide range of colors that can fit any color scheme in your van.

It is best to buy pansies as established plants as they can be difficult to plant from seed. These low-maintenance plants will grow to around 9 inches tall and wide.

Light: Pansies are cool-weather plants. They will only do good in the direct sun if the temperatures are cool. It is best to place them in partial shade in the afternoon to avoid overheating them.

Soil: Use a well-draining potting mix. Preferably sandy or sandy loam. Utah State University recommends a 5-10-5 fertilizer like Espoma’s Garden Food Fertilizer 5-10-5 applied to the potting soil before transplanting your pansies into your fabric pots.

Water: Give your pansies about 1 inch of water per week. 

Bloom: Pansies typically bloom in the spring because of the cooler temperatures. They may also bloom in the fall as temperatures cool down from summer. In mild climates, they will bloom in the winter as well.

Grow Low-Maintenance Geraniums In Your Van

Geraniums are easy to grow with brilliant pink, purple, white, and red flowers, depending on the variety.

There are three main types of geraniums: Ivy-leafed, Martha Washington, and Common. The best species for van life are the common geranium or the Martha Washington geranium. Ivy-leafed is a trailing geranium that can take up more space than you’d like in your van.

Geraniums don’t appreciate being left out in the cold as they are not cold-hardy like lobelia or pansies. However, they are great for container life as they prefer to be somewhat root-bound.

Light: Give your geraniums at least 6 hours of sun per day, but be aware that geraniums may stop flowering in hot weather. During the hottest time of the day, move your geraniums into some shade.

Soil: Any regular potting mix will do as long as it has good drainage. You can add perlite to the mixture for extra drainage.

Water: Allow the soil to dry between waterings. Geraniums are drought-tolerant to an extent.

Bloom: Geraniums will bloom from spring to fall. However, they may stop blooming if temperatures get too hot.

Final Thoughts On Growing Flowers In Your Van

That’s all we have for now on the ten easiest flowers you can grow in your van. Many of the flowers on this list are forgiving, but they still need a little TLC.

Just as a quick recap…

Ten easy flowers you can grow in your van include:

  • Forget-me-nots
  • Begonias
  • Sweet Alyssum
  • Gerber Daisies
  • Marigolds
  • Petunias
  • Impatiens
  • Lobelia
  • Pansies
  • Geraniums

You’ll want to ensure you pick the right location for your flowers and provide them with enough sunlight and water. Also, ensure the temperature doesn’t fluctuate too much in your van.

If you’re looking for the easiest flowers to plant, go with marigoldspetunias, or geraniums. These are more forgiving than others and are the lowest maintenance.

If you’re planning on being in cool weather for a lot of your trip, try growing impatiens, lobelia, or pansies, as these plants prefer cool weather and can even survive a few touches of frost.

Having flowers in your van will not only breathe life into your van’s interior but also provide physical and psychological benefits that are just too good to pass up!

References

Abd ElAziz, N. G., Mahgoub, M. H., Mazhar, A. M.M., Farahat, M. M., & Abouziena, H. F. (2015). Potentiality of Ornamental Plants and Woody Trees as Phytoremidators of Pollutants in the Air: A Review. International Journal of Chem Tech Research8(6), 468-482.

Kaplan, R. (2001). The Nature of the View from Home: Psychological Benefits. Environment and Behavior33(4), 507-542. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/00139160121973115

Ke-Tsung, H., & Li-Wen, R. (2019, August 20). Effects of Indoor Plants on Self-Reported Perceptions: A Systemic Review. Sustainability11(16), 4506. https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/11/16/4506#cite

Lin, M.-W., Chen, L.-Y., & Chuah, Y.-K. (2017, October). Investigation of A Potted Plant (Hedera helix) with Photo-Regulation to Remove Volatile Formaldehyde for Improving Indoor Air Quality. Aerosol and Air Quality Research17(10). https://aaqr.org/articles/aaqr-17-04-oa-0145

Do you have your own vegetable garden? If so, there is a good chance you have marigolds planted somewhere. Traditionally, marigolds help draw insects and animals away from your juicy vegetables. Whether you’re a new or experienced gardener, it’s good to know how much sun these flowers need.

Marigolds need at least six hours of sunlight each day. They can grow in partial shade but in order to grow multiple flowers and bloom throughout fall, marigolds need full sun. Planting them in full sun will promote lush and dense plants while increasing their production of blooms.

We’ll get into depth about why marigolds need full sun and shade and how you can grow strong, full marigolds. Keep reading to keep your marigolds big and blooming!

Reasons Marigolds Need Full Sun

Marigolds are indigenous to Central and South America where they were discovered during the 1500s. From there, marigolds were brought to Africa and Europe resulting in species like the African and French marigolds. 

Because of their indigenous climate, they can tolerate drought and love sun-filled days. Although some species can tolerate part shade, it’s unlikely that you’ll achieve the full, dense look that you’re going for with your marigolds unless they have more access to the sun.

So before you begin planting this summer, lay out your marigold plants in areas that you know have full sun and you’ll have marigold dreams!

Marigolds Need Full Sun To Photosynthesize All Day

Marigolds are dense with foliage. Have you ever seen the leaves on marigolds? They are a work of art on their own, and they even look like some herbs! Because they have such dense, dark green foliage, they are constantly photosynthesizing throughout the day. This helps the marigolds continuously grow multiple flowers at once.

Certain types of marigolds even have double flowers. Yes, you heard that right! African marigolds, French marigolds, and pot marigolds all can bear double flowers.

So, they need full sun to put the energy into and grow these dense double flower heads. And since marigolds continue to flower throughout summer and fall, they need full sun to continue to photosynthesize throughout these seasons.

Marigolds can continue flowering into late fall. But to do this, they have to be deadheaded, which is simply removing flower heads when they’re done blooming. So, you can see why they need full sun, to keep growing those flower heads all year long!

Full sun allows marigolds to grow strong and full, without it, they probably won’t flower and become leggy!

If you’ve ever smelled marigolds, you know just how fragrant they are. Aside from growing dense foliage and flowers, the scent of marigolds is also dependent on the amount of sun they get, similar to lavender and other fragrant flowers. 

According to the United States Department of Agriculture, fragrant floral scents are a mix of VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and essential oils that are emitted into the atmosphere to attract pollinators.

These essential oils evaporate from the petals in warm weather releasing a floral scent. And what does the sun have to do with this? Evaporation! The more sun there is, the more evaporation there is!

Not all flowers that grow in the sun produce a scent, like sunflowers, dahlias, or hibiscus. Even flowers that are shade tolerant can be fragrant, but they typically are exposed to, and require a little sunlight, thus, releasing some floral scent. 

Whether you decide to plant only marigolds or want to venture into other full sunflowers, the Burpee Wildflower Mix Monarch Sanctuary 50,000 Seeds is an ideal choice! 

This seed mixture comes with over a dozen types of flowers including marigolds, butterfly weeds, zinnias, and Mexican sunflowers, to name a few. It comes with enough non-GMO seeds to cover 1,000 square feet. 

And, the most important part is that it’s a wildflower assortment to attract pollinators and help monarch butterfly populations by providing them with this incredible batch of flowers.

Marigolds Need Full Sun To Prevent Wilting And Pests

Marigolds in full sun

Common Marigold Issues

Marigolds are prone to things like leaf spots, wilt, blight, root rot, and aster yellows, without proper sun and drainage. They are also susceptible to pests like the imported long-horned weevil, the potato leafhopper, and plant bugs.

  • Leaf spots are caused by a fungal affliction and can vary depending upon the specific pathogen. This can be avoided, however, by making sure your plant is strong and healthy. You can do this by proper planting location, and fertilizing.
  • Next up, we have wilt. This is another fungal infection that can come from Verticillium or Fusarium oxysporum. Wilt causes wilting of lower leaves and leads to the death of the marigold. Sometimes plants won’t show any signs until it’s too late. This can also be avoided by making sure you have strong and healthy plants, and not damaging the roots.
  • Botrytis blight is pretty gross-looking because it looks like mold. Marigold flowers begin turning brown and are covered with fuzzy, gray blobs. This fungus occurs whenever there’s lots of humidity, moisture, wetness, and lack of sun.
  • Root rot is one that we’ve touched on before, and it usually affects indoor plants. But don’t let that fool you! Root rot can occur just as easily outside as it can inside, especially due to overwatering!
  • Lastly, we have aster yellows. This pathogen is caused by phytoplasmas, which are an intracellular parasite that affects the phloem of plants. This is transmitted through leafhoppers, a common pest of many plants. This disease results in small, oddly shaped, stunted plants.

Common Marigold Pests

The imported long-horned weevil lays its eggs in the soil and feeds on the roots of mairgold plants as larvae. When they become adults, they start feeding on the edges of leaves or flowers. 

The potato leafhopper is a sap-sucking insect that feeds on marigold foliage causing it to whiten and shrivel up. Also, as we mentioned, this pesky insect can transmit aster yellows.

Plant bugs. It sounds like a made-up name, but these bugs lead their eggs in the stems of marigold plants. When they hatch, they suck the sap from leaves eventually turning into circular holes. 

Most of these issues can be avoided by maximizing plant vigor and keeping your marigold healthy.

With that, one of the easiest ways to keep your plant healthy is to plant it in the proper location, in this case, in full sunlight, to help your marigolds grow big and strong!

Since we’re talking about pests, if you’ve ever worked outside during the summertime, you probably know just how bad the bugs can be. Gnats and mosquitoes especially! And if you don’t know, well let’s just say, this is your hint! 

With a bug repellent like Bug Soother Spray – Natural Insect, Gnat and Mosquito Repellent & Deterrent, you can be protected without all of the chemicals in other bug sprays with a nice and pleasant scent!

Marigolds Need Full Sunlight To Control Soil Moisture

Marigolds can tolerate a variety of soil types and humidity levels, especially depending on their type. However, most marigolds grow best in well-draining, acidic soil, and won’t do well if left in saturated, water-logged soil.

Standing water in the soil can be a direct result of lack of sunlight and poorly-draining soil. Marigolds can tolerate a little bit of shade, especially if they are newly transplanted. But if they’re going to stay in a partially shady location, they need well-draining soil.

As we mentioned, some of the pathogens above are a direct result of humid and overly wet conditions that don’t have a chance to dry out. If over-watered, or planted improperly, you are setting your marigolds up for failure instead of success.

Can Marigolds Grow In Shade?

Marigolds in shade

Marigolds can be grown in some partial shade, however, they will have the most success in full sun. Now, when we say partial shade, we mean anywhere from 3-6 hours of direct sun. Some partial shade can help lessen the heat in really hot and sunny places.

Even though some marigold varieties can thrive in partial shade – if you want to grow strong, vigorous plants, your best bet is to plant them in an area that will get at least three hours of direct sun, preferably six hours!

If you are looking to add more shade to your yard, you can learn more about the fastest growing shade trees for small yards.

Next, we’ll cover some common types of marigolds. 

Most Common Types Of Marigolds

French marigold bloom flowers

So, there are two main species of marigolds, the African marigold, and the French marigold. African marigolds are tall, large plants, with fairly big blooms.

French marigolds, on the other hand, are smaller, more compact, and probably the type you see most often.

There are also hybrid marigolds, which are a cross between African and French marigolds, which range in size and shape.

African Marigolds, Tagetes erecta

African marigolds are usually referred to as American marigolds. They have double flowers and grow up to three feet tall! This species of marigolds also can have five-inch blooms. 

French Marigolds, Tagetes patula

French marigolds are probably the most common. They have single flowers and are more compact.

These are the marigolds you have probably seen at hardware and garden stores that come in yellow, dark red, orange, and a combination of all these colors. 

These are small marigolds that range in sizes from six inches up to 18 inches. This type is more tolerant of moist conditions.

A few varieties of the French marigold include ‘Bonanza’, ‘Little Hero’, ‘Bounty’, ‘Hero Orange’, and ‘Queen Sophia’.

Hybrid Marigolds

Hybrid marigolds are French and African marigolds that have been crossbred. They range in a variety of sizes, colors, and shapes such as signet marigolds and Spanish tarragon!

That’s A Wrap!

Marigolds are the perfect addition to your garden, vegetable bed, or even to grow in pots. They will give off that incredible smell and add a pop of color wherever you decide to plant them. 

Marigolds come in all shapes, sizes, and colors, and so many varieties it’s hard to pick a favorite.

Remember, wherever you decide to plant them, make sure they’ve got full sun.

Let’s recap a few things we discussed!

Marigolds need at least 6 hours of sunlight each day to thrive and grow luscious, sweet-smelling blooms. 

Marigolds can grow in partial shade but to grow multiple flowers, and bloom throughout the seasons, they need full sun. Planting marigolds in full sun will promote strong, dense plants, and make them less susceptible to pathogens and pests.

You can choose from African marigolds, French marigolds, or a hybrid variety, all of which have the same light requirements: Sun!

Thanks for sticking around and learning why marigolds do not grow in the shade and why they need full sun. We hope this helped you in your marigold adventures, until next time!

References

Atiyeh, R. M., N. Q. Arancon, C. A. Edwards, and J. D. Metzger. “The influence of earthworm-processed pig manure on the growth and productivity of marigolds.” Bioresource technology 81, no. 2 (2002): 103-108.

Broschat, Timothy K., and Kimberly K. Moore. “Phytotoxicity of several iron fertilizers and their effects on Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu, and P content of African marigolds and zonal geraniums.” HortScience 39, no. 3 (2004): 595-598.

Conboy, N. J., McDaniel, T., Ormerod, A., George, D., Gatehouse, A. M., Wharton, E., … & Tosh, C. R. (2019). Companion planting with French marigolds protects tomato plants from glasshouse whiteflies through the emission of airborne limonene. PloS one, 14(3), e0213071.

Hongpakdee, P., & Ruamrungsri, S. (2015). Water use efficiency, nutrient leaching, and growth in potted marigolds affected by coconut coir dust amended in substrate media. Horticulture, Environment, and Biotechnology, 56(1), 27-35.

Sturz, A. V., and J. Kimpinski. “Endoroot bacteria derived from marigolds (Tagetes spp.) can decrease soil population densities of root-lesion nematodes in the potato root zone.” Plant and Soil 262, no. 1 (2004): 241-249.

If you’re going to start growing your garden, herb, landscape, or vegetable, you’ll probably have lavender somewhere in the mix. Whether you’re a new or experienced gardener, you’ll want to make sure you plant lavender in the right spot!

Lavender needs to be planted in an area with full sun, with at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. Lavender will suffer in the shade and won’t grow. Planting lavender in full sun will promote a healthier and stronger plant, and increase the production of blooms.

We’ll go over why lavender needs full sun and not shade, and the best things to do when planting lavender. Keep reading to keep your lavender bright and blooming!

If You’re Harvesting Lavender You’ll Want Full Sun

Fields of Lavender Against Blue Sky

Lavender needs full sun to grow properly and thrive. Imagine you planted some vegetables in the shade that needed full sun, chances are the growth will be stunted, and you might not even get any fruits. Your vegetable plant might even start to rot or get mildew! Yuck!

Lavender is an indigenous perennial to the Mediterranean, the Middle East, and India, and is found along the coasts and mountains regions of Europe. So, if you imagine the types of climates in these regions and what can grow there, like desert landscapes, coastal areas, and rocky soils, this will give you an idea of the conditions lavender does best in. 

The same thing applies to lavender, if you want to get that big bushy purple wave of blooms, well you’re going to want to plant it in full sun!

On the other hand, there are a few shade-tolerant varieties of lavender, but we’ll get into that later.

So, you’re growing your lavender. Regardless of what you are growing it for, landscape, herb, or whatever it may be, you’re going to need full sun if you want to harvest it! And chances are, if you’ve ever had it in your yard, grown it, or seen it, you’ll want to try harvesting it at some point.

Lavender Needs Full Sun For Fragrant Blooms

If you’re growing lavender, chances are aside from the look you’ll want to smell that sweet fragrance from time to time. And where does that fragrance come from? The blooms!

But guess what your lavender needs to give you those fragrant blooms? The sun! This means it needs to have at least 6-8 hours of full sunlight a day to even grow the blooms at all. 

Lavender oil production within the flowers is directly dependent on the amount of sun it receives. Another factor at play is soil fertility. If your lavender is in full sun but still not producing fragrant blooms, it may be in overly fertile soil, which sounds counterintuitive. 

Overly fertile soil typically has excess nutrients like nitrogen. Excess nitrogen causes lavender to turn yellow because it’s receiving too many nutrients, and it will begin to look leggy. Not only that, but its flower production will start to decrease as well.

But that’s not all, there are also certain varieties of lavender that have stronger fragrances compared to other varieties, and ones with scents similar to rosemary or pine. Lavandula x intermedia ‘Grosso’ is known to be the strongest smelling lavender variety. 

There are four types of lavender, all of which have different growth habits, sun requirements, looks, and uses. ‘Grosso’ lavender is part of French lavender, but there are four other types of lavender, including English, Portuguese, Spanish, and Lavandin (which are the hybrid forms). 

So, if we didn’t make it clear, the main idea is the sun! If you’re tending to your lavender during the day, you’ll probably want to protect yourself from the sun. 

If you need a hat, this Quiksilver Men’s Pierside Lifeguard Beach Sun Straw Hat is wonderful option to keep cool while gardening! It comes in multiple sizes and colors and is large enough in diameter to keep the sun off you from all angles!

Lavender Needs Full Sun To Control Soil Moisture Content

Purple lavender flowers on a blue clear sky background. Blooming lavender in the sunlight. Beautiful summer day. Close-up, selective focus.

Lavender does not tolerate sitting in wet soils for an extended time. Without full sun and well-draining soil, this will tend to be an issue. This leads to a variety of diseases, especially if the water has nowhere to go. 

And just like most plants, over-watering is a huge problem and is super common. 

If you’ve ever tended to ornamentals or flowers in your yard or vegetables in your garden, you have probably heard of things like powdery mildew and root rot. Well, they aren’t unique! Lavender is just as susceptible especially without the sun to dry up excess water that sits in the soil. 

So, if you have poorly draining soil and shade, this will present itself in the form of your lavender plant suffering. This can look like yellowing, wilting, fewer blooms, leggy-ness, and browning of the whole plant.

As we mentioned, most lavender varieties cannot tolerate sitting in heavily saturated soil, like, at all. This means if you have clayey soil, which is slow draining, or areas that are commonly flooded, it’s not to say your lavender won’t survive, but you may have to do some extra work to keep it growing.

If you do live in an area with clay soil, there are a few tips to help you grow lavender successfully:

The first tip of growing lavender in clay soils is to plant lavender in an area of full sun, with 6-8 hours of sunlight every day. What a surprise! 

The next tip is to plant lavender above the water table so that it’s elevated. You can do this in the form of a mound or a raised soil bed that looks like a semi-circle. 

Lastly, when planting lavender in clay soils, you can dig the hole twice as deep and wide as your plant and backfill the hole with limestone, sand, compost, and grit!

If you decide to try this method, the VPG Fertilome PEL318 6Lb Agricul Limestone is an excellent choice to help correct soil acidity (if needed), and increase drainage.

All of the tips mentioned above can drastically help with drainage and can help ensure your lavender grows successfully in poorly draining, sometimes flooded soil. 

Shade Increases The Chance Of Pathogens In Lavender

Purple lanes of lavender in the provence in France, Europe

You may have guessed what comes next on our list: lavender ailments.

  • Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that will display symptoms on the leaves of lavender plants. This fungus looks exactly as the name says and proliferates in humid environments with warm temperatures.
  • Root rot is a result of overwatering, poor drainage, and waterlogged soil underneath lavender. Although this is especially common in indoor plants, it can be a common issue with lavender, since they are quite finicky about sitting in water. This will quickly cause your lavender to expire.
  • ‘Shab’-Phomopsis is a fungal affliction that targets the stems of lavender. If you notice every shoot beginning to wilt, without the threat of drought, this could be the culprit.
  • Verticillium is a soil-borne fungal ailment that thrives in warm and wet conditions near lavender. This affects over 400 different plant species and NOT just lavender. Because it is a soil-borne disease it is difficult to manage. This pathogen affects the xylem vessels, which transport water from the roots to the leaves.
  • Alfalfa Mosaic Virus is a phytopathogen that causes lavender leaves to turn yellow, wilt, and curl up. This is not specific to lavender and affects over 600 plant species. This pathogen is spread through insects, mainly aphids, but is also transmitted through seeds and pollen.

Growth Of Lavender Is Dependent On Full Sun

Lavender growth is directly dependent on the amount of sun it receives. Without 6-8 hours of full and direct sun every day, your lavender will most likely become leggy and weak, and you won’t get that full, dense look you may have expected. 

Growing lavender in the proper location can also ensure that your plant is lush and has lots of buds and blooms. 

If you’ve never seen a leggy plant, we’ll give you an idea of what it looks like. It is sparse, doesn’t have dense, full growth, and kind of looks lanky and misshapen. Usually, it’s a lot of tall stems with not much else going on. Your plant might also lack those gorgeous, fragrant flowers you were hoping for!

As we mentioned above, root rot, along with other pathogens, is a concern when growing lavender in an improper location. So, to grow a strong plant that will continue to come back year after year is dependent on having the proper amount of sun.

Does Lavender Grow In The Shade?

Lavender does not grow well in shade. Although some varieties may be more shade tolerant than others, like Spanish lavender, French lace lavender, and French lavender, it doesn’t necessarily mean that they will grow to their full potential given too much shade.

So, wherever you are planting in your yard, garden, or landscape, make sure your lavender is placed in a location that receives full sun.

Most Common Types Of Lavender

Spectacular lavender rows at sunset. Picturesque purple lavender fields and agricultural areas in Provence region, France, Europe

Lavender has been tested time and time again to determine the best growing conditions. Including things like drought tolerance, moisture tolerance, and soil composition tolerance. 

Lavandula angustifolia is one of the most common types of lavender that you’ll find and it comes in multiple varieties.

Each variety can tolerate different conditions, so it’s important to read the tag or research it before planting! What we mean by this is some Lavandula angustifolia responds well to drought conditions without showing signs of stress, while other lavenders prefer moist conditions, and don’t tolerate drought as well. 

Some of the most common types of lavender you’ll see are: 

  • English lavender
  • ‘Hidcote’ English lavender
  • ‘Munstead’ English lavender
  • Lavandin
  • ‘Hidcote Giant’ lavandin
  • Spanish lavender
  • French lavender

English Lavender

English Lavender is drought tolerant and needs well-draining sandy soil. It grows best in USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8 and can grow up to three feet tall!

This lavender is most widely used in cooking and baking, and essential oils.

‘Hidcote’ English Lavender

Next up is the ‘Hidcote’, which boasts silver foliage with fragrant flowers. It is a compact variety that does best in well-draining soil.

This variety grows in USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8 and grows up to 20 inches tall, significantly smaller than the English lavender we just mentioned.

‘Munstead’ English Lavender

The ‘Munstead’ lavender is another compact growth lavender. This variety also has silver-gray foliage like the ‘Hidcote’. It does best in well-draining soil and grows to 18 inches tall.

Like the previous lavenders, this one grows best in USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8.

Lavandin

Lavandin lavenders are a hybrid version of lavender. They are English lavender crossed with spike lavenders and are typically used in perfumes and oils. This type is tolerant of dry conditions, and warm temperatures, and needs well-draining soil.

This variety grows to two feet tall and does best in USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8.

‘Hidcote Giant’ Lavandin

The ‘Hidcote Giant’ lives up to its name, growing up to three feet in height. It is known for its incredibly tall and abundant flowers. It does best in well-draining soil and USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8.

Spanish Lavender

Purple Spanish Lavender Flower
Purple Spanish Lavender Flower

Changing gears to the Spanish lavender. Not only does Spanish lavender look wildly different than English lavender, but it can also tolerate hot temperatures.

If you want spring and summer blooms, you can intersperse your English lavender with Spanish lavender that begins blooming in the middle of spring.

This lavender grows to two feet tall and does best in USDA Hardiness Zones 8-11. 

French Lavender

French lavender has a few cool-looking varieties. Especially the Lavandula dentata, which resembles ferns or yarrow.

French lavender has a different scent to it, which is said to be more like camphor. This variety also begins blooming in spring and will continue blooming into summer and fall.

It grows up to three feet tall and does best in USDA Hardiness Zones 8-11. 

Now that you’re well versed in a few different popular lavender types, hopefully, you have an idea of what is best for your location.

That’s All For Now!

Thanks for sticking around with us to learn more about if lavender grows in the shade. 

We hope that you were able to pick up some helpful tips on why lavender needs full sun and not shade to grow and produce beautiful, fragrant blooms that we know and love. 

References

Adgaba, Nuru, Ahmed Al-Ghamdi, Yilma Tadesse, Awraris Getachew, Awad M. Awad, Mohammad J. Ansari, Ayman A. Owayss, Seif Eldin A. Mohammed, and Abdulaziz S. Alqarni. “Nectar secretion dynamics and honey production potentials of some major honey plants in Saudi Arabia.” Saudi Journal of Biological Sciences 24, no. 1 (2017): 180-191.

Cook, Samantha M., Martin Jönsson, Matthew P. Skellern, Darren A. Murray, Peter Anderson, and Wilf Powell. “Responses of Phradis parasitoids to volatiles of lavender, Lavendula angustifolia—a possible repellent for their host, Meligethes aeneus.” BioControl 52, no. 5 (2007): 591-598.

Jianu, Calin, Georgeta Pop, Alexandra TGruia, and Florin George Horhat. “Chemical composition and antimicrobial activity of essential oils of lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia) grown in Western Romania.” International journal of agriculture and biology 15, no. 4 (2013).

Kayedi, Mohammad Hassan, Ali Akbar Haghdoost, Ali Salehnia, and Kiumars Khamisabadi. “Evaluation of repellency effect of essential oils of Satureja khuzestanica (Carvacrol), Myrtus communis (Myrtle), Lavendula Officinalis and Salvia sclarea using standard WHO repellency tests.” Journal of Arthropod-Borne Diseases 8, no. 1 (2014): 60.

Koulivand, Peir Hossein, Maryam Khaleghi Ghadiri, and Ali Gorji. “Lavender and the nervous system.” Evidence-based complementary and alternative medicine 2013 (2013).

Living in a van is an adventure all on its own. Whether you do it full-time or are a weekend warrior, van life is exciting! While you’re adventuring, you may wonder how to grow fruits in your van so you have access to fresh produce wherever you are.

To grow fruits in a van, they need to be small and easy to take care of. It also requires a dash of creativity and some patience. The best and easiest fruits that meet these requirements include strawberries, blackberries, currants, gooseberries, grapes, and raspberries.

Growing fruit in your van takes a bit of work, but the payoff is worth it. Read on to discover the easiest fruits to grow in your van and how to grow them!

Can You Grow Fruits In A Van?

Living in a van comes with plenty of its own challenges. Besides figuring out your setup and finding a place to park your home each night, you also have to get creative with your meals.

The limited space inside of a van means most van lifers do not have amenities like a microwave, toaster, or a large fridge/freezer. For this reason, they make a lot of meals with fresh ingredients.

Growing fruit in your van is not only fresh, but it can also cut down on your grocery bill and eliminate the clutter that comes from store packaging. With limited space comes the need for limited garbage.

You live in a moving vehicle. Is it even possible to grow fruits in a van?

Absolutely! With a little care and a lot of creativity, you can grow fruits right inside your van, giving you access to fresh fruit no matter where you are in the world. 

But don’t expect a few seeds thrown in a pot by the window will produce any fruits. There are certain steps you have to take to ensure your fruits will grow indoors.

With a little creativity, a little trial and error, and a little patience, you’ll be enjoying fresh fruit in no time!

How To Grow Fruits In A Van

Pot with bush of with green leaves and berries for landscape design. Strawberry bush with red berries in metal flowerpot.

Most fruit trees are just too big to grow in a van. Even the dwarf varieties of citrus or apple trees grow to around 10 feet. 

This is not ideal for a van.

Instead, we’re going to be looking at perennial plants and brambles in dwarf varieties. These plants still produce the same fruits as their full-sized cousins, but the plants themselves are smaller and fruit yields are smaller.

But before we go over the actual fruits and how to take care of them, let’s discuss where to put them and what to grow them in.

Choose A Good Location For Your Van life Fruits

Growing a plant inside a stationary home is easy peasy. You just set the plant near the window and boom, you’re done. Van life isn’t so simple.

You’ll need to consider the motion of the van at some point. Your fruit plant needs to be secure, so it doesn’t topple over while you’re driving.

Space is another concern. Vans will give you somewhere around 60-70 square feet of space. Add in your bed, cabinets, and kitchenette and that number drops significantly. 

While dwarf varieties don’t need much space, they still need some space.

Your fruits will need plenty of sun to grow to their full potential, so you’ll want to choose a location that gets at least a little sun while you’re driving. When stationary, you can always place your fruit plant outside to soak up the sun and maybe even a little fresh rain.

Most fruits prefer full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. However, with fruits, the more sun, the better. Even up to 10 hours per day for some plants.

What about inside your van? Where can you hope to put your fruit plants where they’ll get enough sun AND not fall over while in motion?

Some potential locations for your fruit plant inside your van include:

  • Hang Your Fruit Plants: Fruit plants aren’t typically meant to hang, but humans aren’t typically meant to live in a van, either. Let’s break some rules! Consider hanging your fruit plant from the bottom of your cabinet storage space near a window.
  • Use Suction Cups: Suction cups with hooks like HangerSpace Suction Cup Hooks are a creative and clever way to hang your fruit plants on your window.
  • Use magnets: Magnets are a van lifer’s friend. We use them to keep our cabinets and drawers shut while driving, our kitchen utensils in place, and our keys from being lost. You can also use them to keep your plants in place! Lovimag’s Neodymium Disc Countersunk Hole Magnets are perfect to keep your plant stuck to a specific location. 

Simply affix the magnet somewhere in your van (preferably within reach of sunlight) and stick the other magnet onto your potted fruit plant.

  • In A Cabinet: Placing your plants in a cabinet isn’t ideal if you’ll be traveling for longer than an hour or two. However, if it’s a quick trip, you can place your fruit plant in your cabinet and use blankets, clothing, or other material to pack around it, so it stays put while you’re driving.

When choosing a location, make it so that you can move, adjust, and remove the plant from that location. 

You’ll need to place your fruit plant outside to water it since you don’t want to fill up your gray tank unnecessarily. You’ll also want to be able to move the fruit plant outside to give it the necessary sun when you have your van parked.

Choose A Non-Rigid Pot For Your Fruit Plants

Anyone interested in traveling in a van knows you can’t have breakable things in your van. Forget about ceramic dishes and cups and replace them with rubber or durable plastic.

The same can be said for your fruit plant pots. You don’t want something breakable that will shatter into a million pieces if it accidentally falls over.

Hard plastic is certainly an option for your fruit planters, but the thing about hard plastic is that, well, it’s hard! Immovable! In a van, you’re better off going with a planter that can mold to different shapes and sizes.

Gardzen’s Aeration Fabric Pots with Handles are an excellent choice! This product comes in plenty of different sizes to fit your specific fruit plant’s needs, ranging from 1 gallon all the way to 25-gallon bags.

For most fruits, a 5-gallon container is a good size.

Having a moldable, foldable, non-breaking pot gives you options you won’t have with a rigid planter. Fabric containers are also reusable, so you can once again cut down on trash and clutter.

Give Your Fruit Plants Enough Sunlight

While it is possible to keep your fruit plants alive by setting them near a window, your plants will not be very happy and they will most likely not produce fruit. For fruit, you need real, unfiltered sunlight.

The good thing about van life is you can stop whenever you want, wherever you want. While you stop, you can set your fruit plant outside to give it much-needed sunlight.

Consider setting your fruit plant container on the roof of your van or on a foldable table in the sun. Some fruit plants, especially brambles, can even withstand partial shade.

However, there are always going to be times when you have to travel for hours at a time, maybe even days at a time, to get to your destination.

During these times, make sure your plant is close to the window so it can absorb as much sunlight as possible. You can also invest in light fixtures to supplement the sunlight and keep your plants happy and healthy.

GHodec’s Grow Light for Indoor Plants provides the three essential colors plants need to photosynthesize – red, blue, and white. It also comes with a clamp instead of a stand, so the lights stay in place, even when you’re in motion.

Studies such as the one from the Journal of Horticultural Science have shown using LED lights with at least red and blue light increases fruit yields.

As a bonus for van lifers, these grow lights have an input of just 5 volts (2.4 amps) which is equivalent to a phone charger! 

Keep The Temperature Above Freezing

Van lifers are rarely traveling to the coldest, most retched environments out there. Most are living life in warm, balmy climates where, at most, you need a flannel tied around the waist for the evening chill.

However, it’s important to note that most fruit plants require temperatures well above freezing to survive.

The good thing is that most van lifers have insulated their vehicles to keep the temperature relatively stable. But it’s something to keep in mind if you want to have fruit plants that produce fruit!

Use The Right Potting Soil For Your Fruit Plants

As you’ll find out below, none of the fruits we listed have crazy soil requirements. You will not need a PH meter to plant any of these fruits.

Still, you can’t just dig some dirt out of the campground, throw it in a pot, and expect your fruits to bloom.

Use quality, organic potting soil for your fruit plants. Organic soil is better if you plan to eat your fruits (which we assume you do!).

However, this doesn’t mean you have to spend a bunch of money on fruit-specific potting soil. Most fruits will do just fine in your run-of-the-mill organic potting soil.

6 Easy Fruits To Grow Inside Your Van

Raspberries, gooseberries, honeysuckle and currants trees in a pot on a garden table. Gardening abstract background. Agriculture.

When growing fruits in your van, berries are the way to go! Strawberries, gooseberries, raspberries… these are suitable to grow in a van.

The fruits we have on our list are there for a few reasons:

  • Self-fertile: this means you only need one plant to produce fruits. 
  • Space: You need fruits that are small, compact, and can withstand pruning
  • Easy: Van life isn’t about stressing over your plants. You need a fruit plant that’s easy to take care of and requires low maintenance.

As much as we’d love to give you tips on growing apples, citrus, and avocados, these fruit trees are just too big and too complicated for a van. Instead, we went with small, simple, tasty berries.

Grow Strawberries In Your Van

Strawberries are one of the simpler fruits to grow in a pot and are very versatile in terms of food. Throw them in a smoothie, smother them in whipped cream, or just eat them plain!

There are three main varieties of strawberry:

  • June-bearing
  • Ever-bearing
  • Day-neutral

Each has different fruit-bearing times and quantities, but for van life, either everbearing or day-neutral strawberries are preferred. They produce smaller fruits and take up less space.

An important thing to note about strawberries (and many fruits in general) is they cannot be planted from seed. You must acquire either a transplant or a bare-root crown which can find at local nurseries.

Keep a close watch on your plant for pests such as aphids and whiteflies. These can be hard to spot because of their small size.

Light: Strawberries require at least 6 hours of sun per day.

Water: According to the University of Minnesota, strawberry plants should get the equivalent of 1 inch of rainwater per week. They recommend a good soaking once per week.

Soil: Use an indoor/outdoor potting soil mix. Strawberries aren’t picky about the soil but require enough nitrogen to flourish.

Harvesting: Once your strawberry plant flowers, it takes up to four weeks for the fruit to ripen enough to pick. Pick strawberries when they are a deep red, even if they are small.

Grow Blackberries In Your Van

Blackberries are part of the caneberry family and are closely related to raspberries. They can be used in a variety of dishes such as glazings, jams, desserts, breakfast toppings, and eaten plain.

According to Oregon State University, the best type of blackberry to grow in a container is everbearing blackberries. Semi-erect blackberries are a little too rambunctious to be planted in a container.

One thing to note about blackberry plants is the branches on which the fruit grows will die back each year. Don’t worry, this does not mean the plant is dead! The roots and crown will remain alive and produce new fruit-bearing branches.

You can purchase potted blackberry plants and transfer them to your fabric containers. Blackberry plants cannot be grown from seed.

For full-grown blackberry plants, it’s recommended to use a 20-gallon container. However, for van life, you’ll want to grab a dwarf variety of blackberry such as baby cakes

The dwarf variety of blackberries typically grows 2-3 feet tall and produces the same delicious-tasting blackberries as their full-grown counterparts.

Light: Like most fruits, blackberries LOVE the sun. Give your blackberry plant at least 6 hours of sun. The more, the better.

Water: When just starting, keep your blackberry plant’s container wet but without standing water. Once the plant establishes itself, it will need about 1 inch of water per week.

Soil: Blackberry plants prefer well-drained soils, but they are tolerant of wet conditions as well. It’s recommended to use a mixture of perlite such as The Valley Garden’s Organic Perlite for All Plants, and potting soil.

Harvesting: Pick your blackberries when they have transformed from a shiny black to a dull black. Shiny blackberries will be tart and acidic, so don’t pick too early!

Grow Currants & Gooseberries In Your Van

Gooseberries are similar in size and shape to grapes but have a sour kick to them you won’t find in grapes. Currants are similar in size but are made of clusters of pea-sized fruits.

Gooseberries and currants are on the bigger side for a van (they can grow up to 6 feet) but we put them on our list because they can withstand heavy pruning.

Like blackberries and strawberries, currants and gooseberries are self-fertile, which is another plus for van life because you will only need one plant to produce fruits.

You can get potted plants from your local nursery or order them online as a bare root. It’s recommended to use a pot that’s about a foot deep and a foot wide.

There are three main types of currants: 

  • Red – more acidic/sour
  • Pink – sweeter
  • White – sweeter

There are also black currants, but some varieties are not self-fertile and would require two plants, which isn’t ideal in a van.

Gooseberries are translucent and can appear green, pink, or red.

Unfortunately, it can take currants and gooseberries up to 3 years to produce fruit. However, some will produce fruit in their first year in optimal conditions. Keep your plants pruned to a reasonable size for van life, as these babies will take off if left unchecked!

Light: According to the University of Minnesota, currants and gooseberries can grow in full sun or partial shade. The more sun, the more fruits! 

Water: Keep the soil moist to the touch.

Soil: Currants and gooseberries will grow in normal potting soil, but will produce more fruit if they have the help of fertilizer. Fertilizer spikes like Jobe’s Organics Tree Spikes for Fruit and Nuts work well to keep your currant and gooseberry plants happy.

Harvesting: Depending on the variety of currant plant, harvest berries when their color is full. You can also taste-test currants and gooseberries to see if they are ripe as you can eat directly them from the plant. If they are very sour, they are not ripe yet.

Grow Grapes In Your Van

close up view of planting of grapes using polybags in the garden

This one may come as a surprise. After all, aren’t grapes vine-growers that spread all over the place? 

Well, yeah, but it doesn’t mean you can’t grow a small vine in a container! You can get grapes as a bare root in the winter or grab them in pots in the spring and summer from your local nursery.

Just be aware that grapes will not produce in their first year. They may produce their second year but could take 3 or 4 years to produce. If you’re into van life for the long haul, this shouldn’t be a problem, but if you need fruit fast, grapes are not the best choice.

It’s recommended to use a 15-gallon container for grapes, but you can start smaller and move your way up as your vine grows. For grapes, you will need a trellis to train the vines.

A small trellis, like UWIOFF’s Indoor Small Trellis will work great in your van as it’s only 10.2 inches high and 6.1 inches wide.

Light: As with all the fruits on our list so far, grapes prefer full sun conditions, at least 6 hours per day.

Water: According to the University of Arizona, grapes should be watered deeply but infrequently. Water the top 3-4 inches of soil but allow it to dry completely before watering again. 

Soil: Choose a soil mixture that drains well. Grapes dislike being saturated in water.

Harvesting: Pick your grapes when they are plump and easy to pull from the cluster. You can feel the grape with your hands – if it is very hard, it is under-ripe. If it is soft and shriveled, it is overripe.

Raspberries Grow Great Vans

Raspberries are closely related to blackberries. But unlike blackberries, raspberries are hollow in the middle and have a sweet, tart taste.

Like most fruits on our list so far, raspberries are sold as either a bare root plant or in a pot that you can pick up from a local nursery. Or maybe not so local if you’re traveling in a van!

As for the container, full-sized raspberries need a little bigger size than strawberries or blackberries. It’s recommended to use a container 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide. But again, for van life, try to find a dwarf variety such as BrazelBerries or Raspberry Shortcake.

Some dwarf varieties come with the bonus of being thornless! According to Oregon State University, black and purple variety raspberries do the best as a single plant in a container.

If you decide to go with a full-grown variety, you will need to trellis the plant to keep the canes from drooping. Dwarf varieties do not need trellises. 

Start your raspberries out in a 5-gallon container and transplant them if needed, or prune them to remain small. It’s recommended to use a fertilizer when starting out raspberry plants. Any all-purpose organic fertilizer will do, but slow-releasing fertilizers are best. 

Note: Always read the directions on fertilizers. You will only have a single plant, maybe two, so you will need to reduce the amount of fertilizers or water it down appropriately.

Light: The more sun, the better, but at least 6 hours per day.

Water: Raspberries should not be over-watered, as they are susceptible to root rot. However, since raspberries are mostly made of water, the plant still needs an adequate amount. It’s recommended to water the soil until it is thoroughly wet without standing water.

Soil: Use a potting mix that drains well. An organic potting mix like Perfect Plant’s Organic Potting Mix for All Plant Types is a good choice. This particular potting mix blends perlite as well, which is good for drainage.

Harvesting: Pick your raspberries when their color is full and they can be removed easily from the plant. If the berry is still hanging on for dear life, it’s not quite ripe.

That’s All For Now!

Growing fruits in your van may sound like a tedious and difficult journey, but it’s easier than you think and can provide you with fresh fruits no matter where you are!

Overall, the 6 easiest fruits to grow in a van include:

  • Strawberries
  • Blackberries
  • Currants
  • Gooseberries
  • Grapes
  • Raspberries

As long as you provide adequate conditions, your fruits are bound to produce. If you’re looking for fast-producing fruits, go with blackberries or raspberries. If you’re willing to wait, try to grow grapes, currants, gooseberries, or strawberries.

You can read more about the best plants you can grow in a van here!

References

Dara, S. K. (2016, July 20). Managing Strawberry Pests with Chemical Pesticides and Non-Chemical Alternatives. International Journal of Fruit Science, 16(1), 129-141.

Donadio, L. C., Lederman, I. E., Roberto, S. R., & Stucchi, E. S. (2019). Dwarfing-canopy and rootstock cultivars for fruit trees. Propagation, 41(3).

Piovene, C., Orsini, F., Bosi, S., Sanoubar, R., Bregola, V., Dinelli, G., & Gianquinto, G. (2015, September 22). Optimal red:blue ratio in led lighting for nutraceutical indoor horticulture. Horticultural Science, 193, 202-208.

Worthington, M. L., & Clark, J. R. (2020). Development of blackberry cultivars with novel plant architecture. Acta Hortic., 1277, 159-164.

Your Competitors Are Already Running Ads. Are You?

This is for landscaping business owners who are: