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Maple trees come in several varieties and multiple sizes. They can grow quickly, or take a while to mature, but once they are grown, they can provide shade, shelter from the wind, and attract wildlife. Let’s explore how long it will take for a maple tree to grow.

Some maple trees can take between 20 to 30 years to mature, while other species will reach maturity in half that time. Japanese maples are the turtles of this tree genus, growing only a few inches in a year, while silver maples can add over 7ft of growth in a single year.

We’ll go over the steps on how to grow your own maple trees from seeds and saplings, and how long it takes for these trees to reach maturity. Hopefully, this will help you decide what kind of maple tree you want on your property, and what to expect during each stage of its life.

What Type Of Maple Tree Is Right For You?

Picking the right maple tree largely depends on what attributes you are looking for, as well as what size yard you have.

Some maple trees stay small and shrub-like, others stop growing when they reach 20 to 30 feet tall, while others can be towering giants that require a lot of space. 

Best Maple Trees For Small Yards

If you have a smaller yard, then a huge sugar maple, black maple, or sycamore would not be a brilliant choice. They all can grow to over 100 feet tall and grow nearly as wide. For smaller, more compact yards you’d be better off with Japanese, Korean, Norway, or paperbark maple trees.

Japanese and Korean maple trees can grow up to 35 feet tall, or be dwarf varieties, which grow slowly and only achieve a height of 5 to 7 feet. Paperbark and Norway maple trees will grow to heights of 25 to 60 feet, respectively.

Keep in mind when you decide to plant a tree that it needs to have space to expand. Trees that will grow higher than a one-story house need to be at least 20 feet away. Even small trees that topple can cause a lot of damage if they fall onto your house.

Tree roots have to be considered as well. Some trees can grow under, and into foundations causing major problems, so give them space to grow freely without becoming a problem.

Maple Trees For Big Yards

For those of you who have large expanses of turf, you have more options when it comes to maple trees. Silver maples, sugar, sycamore, and red maples, as well as the previously mentioned trees, can be incorporated into your landscaping. 

Some maple varieties can grow to 70 to over 100 feet tall. These include the big-leaf maple, sugar, black, red maple, and sycamore.

These trees will need to be planted quite a distance away from any structures or power lines. Thirty feet would be the bare minimum, but I’d personally put a few more feet of distance between them and my house. 

While maple trees are considered hardwood trees, some fast growers like the silver maple have softer limbs and trunks that can break or fall in high winds and during heavy storms.

You definitely don’t want any of these limbs falling on your roof, so keep them a fair distance away. 

How Long Does It Take For A Maple Tree To Grow?

Maple trees can take a few decades to reach maturity. This depends on if you are starting your maple tree from seed, seedling or you have a sapling you purchased from a local nursery. 

Growing A Maple Tree From Seed

Did you find some maple seeds on the ground while you were walking in your neighborhood, the park, or out hiking? You should be able to get these seeds to sprout into seedlings with the proper steps.

If you found seeds that started falling in the fall, then these will most likely need a period of stratification before they will germinate. Stratification is a period of cooler weather required for some seeds to grow.

Seeds that have fallen in spring do not require this chilling period and will probably not stay viable in storage for long. Red and silver maple seeds fall into this category and can be started without stratification.

According to the USDA, silver maple seeds start growing in April, take about three weeks to mature, and then will disperse from the tree. They require no stratification, and germination is usually successful in moist, organic soil.

When searching for seeds, only take the ones that have fallen to the ground. If you pluck them straight from the tree, they may not be mature enough to grow into a tree. Look for seeds that are firm, dense, and don’t have any holes in them.

How To Mimic Stratification For Your Maple Tree

Put your maple seeds in a sealable plastic bag with a moist soil medium. You want something like peat or a seed starting soil you then dampen. You don’t want it dripping wet or swimming in water. 

Put the bag with the seeds in the refrigerator. Make sure they don’t freeze, as this could ruin the seeds. Anywhere between 34℉ to 41℉ is a good range to strive for.

It’s important to keep the bag partially opened. Even through this cold process, the seeds need to “breathe.”

Now leave them for about 40 to 120 days, but check them every two weeks. Add a few drops of moisture to the soil if it’s drying out. Tap off any moisture droplets that have condensed inside and flip the bag over.

If you see any moldy or mushy seeds, remove them. Once they sprout during this time, remove them and put them in a seed starting tray or small pot. 

If the seeds haven’t started sprouting after 120 days, take them out and begin planting them. Keep in mind that most times, not all the seeds will sprout, so you will want to stratify at least 10 to 15 to make sure you get a few viable seedlings.

As the seedlings grow, you can cull the ones that aren’t growing so well. 

You can plant seeds outside and let nature take care of the stratification for you, but this process could take up to two years. That’s if squirrels, deer, or other animals haven’t eaten the seeds or seedlings. 

Now Plant The Maple Seeds

Whether they have been stratified, or they’re from a species that doesn’t require a cold snap to get them to grow, it’s time to plant them. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil—less than an inch is plenty—then place them in a warm area of the house, preferably near or on a windowsill.

Keep the soil moist while you are working on germinating the seeds, but don’t drown them. Now is not the time to get impatient, because some seeds can still take 40 to 90 days for the seeds to sprout.

Once you have a few maple tree seedlings growing, reduce the frequency of water just a bit. You don’t want to keep the soil moist all the time, as root rot can set in. Instead, let the soil get dry to the touch before misting it again.

You’ll also want to start setting them outside in a partially shaded area, so the new seedlings can harden. As they reach around six inches tall, you can plant them in their new home, or transplant the maple trees to another, larger pot until they get larger and stronger. 

It’s around this time that you will want to give your maple tree seedlings more sunlight. Most maple trees are sun-loving trees. While they can survive in shady environments, maple treesl do much better when they get between 4 and 8 hours of sunlight. 

Deer, rabbits, and sometimes squirrels often eat maple seedlings. You may want to take steps to protect them by either wrapping them in chicken wire or leaving them in pots until they are a few feet tall. 

This may take a year or up to five years, depending on variety, for the seedlings to grow into sapling size. This means the main trunk is about two inches in diameter. 

When And How To Plant Maple Saplings

Fall is the best season for planting, and maple trees are no exception to the rule. While you can plant them at any time, fall is the best season because it gives the trees a chance to establish their roots in new soil. 

It’s important for the roots to get acclimated so that when spring comes around, the tree can send moisture and nutrients up to grow new branches, leaves, and flowers.

Choose Your Planting Spot

Choose a site that gets plenty of sun and is far enough away from structures, sidewalks, pathways, or any kind of water pipes. Remember, maple trees LOVE sun!

Maple roots are often shallow and can raise or crack cement and asphalt. Some maple roots also will disrupt drain pipes in their search for water, so be mindful of supply lines and septic fields.

Dig The Hole!

Next, dig your hole. Dig as deep as the container and about two to three times as wide. Loosen up the root ball so the roots can spread out and mix the existing soil with a good garden or potting soil so there are plenty of nutrients for the new tree. 

Set The Maple Sapling Inside

Set the sapling in the hole, but don’t bury the trunk deeper than the original soil level in the container. Before you fill in the remainder of the soil, water the hole and root ball very well. This makes sure the water reaches the roots.

Fill The Hole And Wait

Now fill in the hole, compact the dirt, and add a layer of mulch. Spread the mulch in the shape of a donut while keeping it away from the trunk a few inches. 

Once your maple sapling is in the ground, it can take 10 to 30 years for the tree to mature. During this time, you may need to prune the tree occasionally for health, but the main thing you can do to make sure it remains healthy is to make sure it gets enough water.

Fertilizer isn’t really necessary for maple trees unless you can tell it’s NOT growing well. Their roots spread out far enough to find the nutrients they need. With regular leaf mulching, mowing, and keeping a layer of mulch around the tree, it finds enough nutrients to stay full!

Keeping Your Maple Strong From Sapling To Young Tree

Maple saplings are still susceptible to damage from foraging animals that like to snack on tender tree bark and the soft tissue underneath. Deer, mice, squirrels, porcupines, and beavers all will seek new saplings, especially when other food sources are scarce. 

According to the USDA, when deer feed on saplings, they increase potential frost damage, weaken the tree and insect infestation. These can increase the mortality of the saplings.

Place A Wire Mesh Around The Maple Tree

To keep them protected, you should erect a wire mesh frame around them. You can use metal fence posts, wood stakes like these Bond Manufacturing Hardwood Stakes, or anything else rigid enough to hold hardware cloth. 

Pound them into the ground around the tree, then take some hardware cloth and attach it to the posts to enclose the tree in a tight cage. Nueve Deer Hardware Cloth has ½” holes that will keep animals out and away from the tree.

Use Chicken Wire

Chicken wire will help against deer and some larger animals, but mice and squirrels can get through the openings. 

Next, drape some netting or mesh over the top of the tree and secure it with bread ties or zip ties to keep small climbing critters like squirrels out. Feitore Deer Fence Netting will help to deter them.

Keep Your Maple Tree Watered

Saplings need to be watered more often than big, established, mature trees. You’ll probably have to water them on a regular schedule, especially during periods of sparse rain for the first two years of growth. 

Maple trees need a good, drenching watering every couple of days to keep them healthy.

The biggest concerns here are to make sure the water soaks in and reaches the roots, but also to keep from watering them too much. Root rot is hard to fix and can be fatal, especially in newer trees. 

Let the top of the soil dry out before watering again so the tree’s roots can “breathe,” instead of drowning the roots in water. When watering your maple sapling, give it a few gallons at a time. Proper watering is the best way to prevent sunscald and leaf scorch.

Properly Mulch Your Maple Tree

A good three to four-inch layer of mulch around the tree helps to keep moisture in, and as the mulch decomposes, adds organic nutrients to the soil. 

Once the tree is about five years old, you can remove the protective mesh and start letting nature water your tree. In times of drought, you can water your tree to keep it healthy, but during normal conditions, the tree should be able to fend for itself. 

Congratulations, you have a strong growing maple tree! It should give you and your family a lifetime of beauty, shade, and enjoyment. Aside from the occasional pruning and watering during droughts, you shouldn’t have to do much else to keep your maple tree healthy. 

How Fast Do Maple Trees Grow?

Again, this is species specific. Some maple trees grow very slow while some will reach maturity quickly, for a tree that is. 

Some of the slower-growing maple trees include most species of Japanese maples, sugar maples, field, and Shantung maple.

Many of these trees will grow no more than a foot per year. For trees that can reach over 100 feet tall, this means it could take a lifetime for them to attain their full height.

Common Maple Tree Growth Rates 

Sugar maples will take about 30 to 40 years to reach a tall, mature age. Dwarf Japanese maples are some of the slowest growing maple trees. They only reach five to seven feet tall, and it may take them ten years to attain that height. 

Maple trees with a slightly faster growth rate will grow up to two feet per year. Medium growth maple trees include trident maples, Norway, red, and some bigger varieties of Japanese maples, such as Acer palmatum, or Bloodgood. 

Red maples may reach a mature height of 40 to 60 feet tall in 20 to 30 years, while a Bloodgood Japanese maple will reach a max height of 35 feet tall in 15 to 20 years. 

Fastest Growing Maple Trees

The fastest-growing maple trophy goes to the silver maple. This tree can shoot up almost as fast as bamboo (but they aren’t nearly as invasive).

The speedy silver maple can grow up to five or six feet in a single year. These trees can reach maturity in less than 10 years.

If you are looking for a super fast-growing tree, look no farther than the silver maple. But with that quick growth brings a soft, easily broken wood, so keep that in mind. 

Other fast-growing maple trees include the autumn blaze and freeman maple. These are hybrids of the red or, in the case of freeman maple, a red and silver maple mix.

While they don’t grow as fast as the silver maple, they are still considered fast-growing maple trees. 

Can You Grow A Maple Tree In Your Zone?

Some maple trees can grow from Maine to Florida, while others can’t deal with extreme heat. Most maple trees are fairly hardy from U.S. grow zones 4 down to 8, but again it depends on the species. 

Maple trees can be found all across the United States and Canada. While sugar maples favor the eastern side, they can grow in the west.

The bigleaf maple is native to the western states and can be found in Washington, Oregon, California, and even up in Alaska.

You should be able to find maple trees that are native to or will grow well in your zone, no matter where you are.

Establish a relationship with your local nurseries and ask them what maple trees will work for you. They’ll be able to provide you with all the information you need to grow your own maple trees. 

That’s A Wrap!

Trees can provide benefits for people, wildlife, and the environment, so go ahead and take up this hobby. The trees you plant can provide several generations with beauty, shade, and happiness. 

Whether you’re planting sugar maples, sycamores, or Japanese maple trees, these iconic trees are fun and exciting to care for and watch grow up into strong healthy trees. Get out there and start planting.

References:

Ostfeld, Richard S., Robert H. Manson, and Charles D. Canham. “Effects of rodents on survival of tree seeds and seedlings invading old fields.” Ecology 78.5 (1997): 1531-1542.

Carl, Clayton M., and Albert Granville Snow. Maturation of sugar maple seed. Vol. 217. Northeastern Forest Experiment Station, Forest Service, US Department of Agriculture, 1971. https://books.google.com/books?hl=en&lr=&id=jK2cxrI_AycC&oi=fnd&pg=PA1&dq=maple+tree+seeds&ots=Nvh34JltBC&sig=IWTAlHe0addJNsuJd-uCWIYR-P8#v=onepage&q=maple%20tree%20seeds&f=false 

Farmer, Robert E., and Maureen Cunningham. “Seed dormancy of red maple in east Tennessee.” Forest Science 27.3 (1981): 446-448.

Tremblay, M-F., Yves Mauffette, and Yves Bergeron. “Germination responses of northern red maple (Acer rubrum) populations.” Forest Science 42.2 (1996): 154-159.

While looking out your window you admire the beautiful maple trees out there and feel life is good. But then you take a closer look and realize you can’t trust those trees…they’re looking mighty shady. Jokes aside, sometimes you have to cut down maple trees, for one reason or another!

You should cut down your maple tree if it is too close to your house, attracting significant pests and insects, has received major storm damage, or it’s roots have become invasive. Maple tree roots can span up to 25ft wide, which can cause issues with underground wires and drainage systems.

Though it may be hard to think about because many trees have sentimental value, there are valid reasons to cut down your maple trees. Read on to find out why you should have your maple tree cut down, and when would be the best time.

Your Maple Tree Is Too Close To Your House

Large trees like maples need a minimum of 20 feet away from your house or structures. That doesn’t mean everyone follows this recommendation. Many people plant a tree based on how tall it is at that moment, failing to realize many trees will soon tower over the house, and be too close.

They could have been thinking more about how the shade is going to help with cooling bills in the summer, or how they will be having picnics underneath their tree in a few years instead of wondering if it’s too close to the house. 

Chances are you bought your house with that maple tree already fully established, but sitting a little too close for comfort. If you have a maple tree that’s sitting closer than 20 feet away from your house it could be sitting in the “danger zone.” 

According to the University of Missouri Extension, smaller trees can be placed about 15 feet away, but large trees need to be planted 20 feet or more away from the house. 

Trees sometimes fall on their own for several reasons. They also can drop large branches without the courtesy of giving a decent notice. To prevent major tree damage to your house or other structure, you might want to have that maple tree cut down. 

You Have A Maple Tree With Invasive Roots

Not all maple trees are considered to have invasive roots, but the silver maple and Norway maple do fall into that category. Maple trees in general tend to have shallow roots, so depending on what kind of landscaping you have, any tree can present root problems.

Shallow roots can lift sidewalks, driveways, and paving stones in your garden path, or make it a nightmare to mow. Anyone who has accidentally run over a tall, thick, tree root with a lawnmower knows what I’m talking about. It’s a jarring experience, to say the least.

Norway and silver maples are fast-growing trees that can have extensive root systems. They will get everywhere in their insatiable quest for water. These roots can dig into fine cracks in foundations, basements, and water lines.

Once they find a water source, more roots quickly crowd into that area causing more damage. Whether they increase foundation damage or get inside pipes causing them to clog and back up, there’s not much that can be done to mitigate this damage aside from removing the tree.

When a maple tree starts to ruin your hardscapes, driveway, or even your brick retaining wall, you’ll probably have to get it cut down. You can try cutting the roots back, but often the maple will just grow those damaged roots back.

Maples are known to have invasive and damaging roots. Our article on 9 trees that can damage your foundation can help you choose a tree that is good to plant near your home!

Your Maple Tree Is Ruining Your Grass

Grass can be difficult to grow underneath trees. You could have patches of weeds, weak grass, or a big brown patch that looks like a scar on your lawn.

Most grass varieties require full sun and plenty of water to keep them healthy. The broad expanse of a large maple tree’s canopy can deter both of those requirements. This leaves large patches that can be an eyesore.

In the spring and summer, a maple’s canopy can restrict rainwater from falling through. A large quantity of rainwater will run off the leaves and fall around the edge, leaving the soil directly underneath too dry for grass.

Along with providing shade for most of the day, typical grass can’t cope.

You can cover the ground with mulch, but if the dead grass patch is 20 feet or more in diameter, a huge mulch bed will simply look awkward.

Along with the grass problems, you could be dealing with raised roots that cause trip hazards. Or maybe you’ve had to replace a lawnmower blade for the X-teenth time because of shallow, protruding roots. When enough is enough, it’s time to cut your maple tree down.

Oh, and maple trees often leave helicopter seeds on your lawn, which can be quite annoying and another reason to get rid of them since they drop them in large amounts.

A Big Storm Broke Your Maple Tree

Trees grow and develop ways to withstand fierce storms, but occasionally Mother Nature brews up a special kind of storm. When this happens even the strongest trees can succumb.

Whether the ground has been soaking in a constant barrage of torrential rain and the tree topples, roots and all, or there was a lightning strike, you might have to get rid of the tree.

It doesn’t have to be summer storms that ruin trees to the point where they have to be removed for safety. Heavy snowstorms or especially freezing rain can cause tree limbs to break off, or topple trees.

Most ice storms that result in a quarter or half an inch of ice will break off smaller limbs. Hardwood trees like maples can often withstand this much ice, but if the storm continues to dump freezing rain, large limbs or even the tree itself can fall.

Ice storms start getting problematic when accumulation surpasses ½” of ice. When severe storms damage your trees you’ll need to get an arborist to check on them. Sometimes the damage is so bad, that the entire tree will have to be cut down.

Most trees can survive moderate storm damage. If the tree sustained damage but is still standing, you might want to have it checked out before cutting it down completely. It might be able to heal itself. 

Your Maple Tree Has Extreme Fungi Or Insect Damage

Healthy trees are often able to fight off mild insect or fungal damage. But if a tree is getting very old—some maples can live for hundreds of years—or it is going through the wringer it can be more difficult to fight off invaders. 

Maple trees can be infected with fungal afflictions like anthracnose, cottony scale, tar spot, verticillium wilt, and various types of insects. They can become beset with leaf-eating caterpillars, beetles, or boring insects that weaken them.

While some of these problems can be overcome by the tree itself, or be treated with fungicides or pesticides, there are times when you should go ahead and have the tree cut down. Some fungal infections can’t be treated and will lead to the tree’s end.

You’ll need to contact a professional arborist who can let you know if the tree can be treated effectively. The problem with fungal afflictions and insect invasion in trees is they can often be spread to others. If it’s not cost-effective to treat it, or it seems to be sick all the time, then you’ll need to get rid of it.

Your Maple Tree Is Leaning, Lopsided, And Needs To Go

A leaning tree can be similar to a ticking time bomb. It’s not going to blow up everywhere, but it could fall over without warning. Often we don’t notice leaning trees until it’s too late, or it has an odd pronounced lean that catches our eyes.

Many things can cause a tree to grow lopsided, and when the canopy gets heavy and uneven, it can make the tree slowly lean until it falls completely over.

Too much shade on one side can cause this problem. Maple trees are sun-loving trees. If other trees are growing around them, casting shade on one side, they can end up growing more on the sunny side to compensate.

Branches can fall off making them lopsided, or possibly the roots are starting to give way. Whatever the reason, a tree that has developed a prominent lean will need pruning to correct it.

When that doesn’t work, the only other option is to “defuse” the situation by having the maple tree cut down

Go ahead and get the tree before it gets you.

The Maple Tree Is Simply Too Expensive To Keep

There may come a time when the tree has reached the end and will need to be put out of its (and your) misery. Do you have to treat it yearly or more often to keep it healthy? Are you maxing out credit cards to keep it from coming down? 

We hope this isn’t the case, but when you have to constantly pay to keep a tree going, it’s probably best to go ahead and get it out of there.

Maybe the tree is finally reaching its end. Some maple trees have been known to live for 300 or even 400 years; then some varieties will never see ages such as those. The silver maple for example is a variety that grows fast and may only live a few decades in suburban settings.

When a tree is constantly dipping its branches into your wallet, it’s time to turn it into firewood. If you have a firepit you can at least enjoy the tree one last time with a bonfire.

in-fact, maple is one of the hottest burning firewoods!

Your Maple Tree Is Close To Power, Phone, Or Internet Lines

Trees and power lines have never been a good mix, and it stands to reason they never will be. Whether the tree was there first or not, power lines end up getting the right of way.

Maybe the tree grew too close to the lines and now it needs to be removed. New utility lines could have been put in and now the tree is the one that needs to move.

Trees can damage power lines by rubbing against them all the time. The branches can fall and break the lines, or even grow into them if given enough time. Unfortunately for the tree, when they get tangled up around these lines, it’s the tree that loses.

Your Maple Tree Was Topped

Topping a tree is, unfortunately, a common practice, but also an almost always a game ender for large trees. When a tree gets “topped,” all the upper branches get cut back drastically, and most lateral, or side branches, get chopped off. What’s left is a tree without any leaves or small branches.

Trees get topped because they are too close to the house, and they think drastically cutting them back will keep them from causing problems. They want to prevent storm damage so they cut large limbs off, or the tree is too close to utility lines.

These reasons have their merit, but topping a tree stresses the tree out and leaves too many large wounds that can allow an insect invasion or infection that it will no longer be able to fight off. Topping a tree also prevents it from creating food for itself because all the leaves are cut away.

The tree will respond by quickly growing a cluster of new limbs and leaves to heal itself, but these limbs are often weaker than the branches that were cut off. Besides, the tree will often end up growing as tall as it was before, only with weaker limbs.

The Illinois Forestry Conservation gives three reasons not to top a tree:

• The fast-growing new limbs are weaker, making them more susceptible to storm damage.

• A topped tree is exposed to decay, insects, and afflictions, and weakens the entire tree. Meaning the tree will probably require more upkeep and it will end up significantly reducing the lifespan of the tree.

• A topped tree is often a liability, can cause property damage, and possibly reduce property values.

Topping trees may have seemed like a good idea some time ago, but the practice is quite detrimental to tree health and should be avoided if possible.

Contact a tree professional to come up with good alternatives to topping your tree. If you have a tree that was topped, then you may have to get it removed and replace it with a new, healthier tree.

After dealing with the troubles of such a large tree, you may want to consider smaller trees like these Japanese maples. They won’t get nearly as big as red or sugar maples, and they provide beautiful colors all season long.

Maybe you would rather go even smaller. If that’s the case, why not get into a bonsai hobby starting with a Live Juniper Bonsai Tree. With these, you won’t have to worry about property damage from falling limbs, power lines, or having large patches of grassless yard.

What You Need Before Cutting Down A Maple Tree

While the tree may be on your property, there may still be ordinances or other obstacles to overcome before having the tree removed. An HOA may have restrictions on tree removal, the tree may be located on an easement or other hindrances.

Don’t be nervous if this is your first time cutting down a tree; many people cut down trees for a bunch of reasons. If you are interested to learn more about this, check out our article on 6 reasons why people cut down trees!  

Are You Part Of An HOA?

When you have a Homeowner’s Association, there may be rules in the community guidelines that prevent you from cutting trees down.

Before having your tree removed, go over the rules to make sure you won’t be getting a nasty letter or any fines. If you’re unsure, reach out to an HOA official to make certain you’re in the clear. 

Is The Maple Tree On An Easement?

An easement is a part of the property that you can use but don’t own. It can be a driveway that goes through a neighbor’s property that allows you access to your property, an alleyway, or another section of land. 

Since you don’t own that section of land, you can’t cut trees off it without permission, even if they are posing a hazard to the property. 

The Maple Tree Straddles A Property Line

Sometimes it happens, that a tree ends up sitting on a property line between you and your neighbor and it needs to be cut down. How do you handle that?

In this case, you’ll have to reach an agreement with your neighbor. You both will have to agree upon if the tree can be safely removed, and how that will happen, and you may have to figure out how to split the cost.

We just hope you have reasonable neighbors and at least have a friendly repertoire with them.

Is The Tree On Or Near A Culvert?

The drainage area near the road is technically an easement but it may be owned by the city or county where you live. You are responsible for the upkeep but you’re not supposed to build, landscape, or fill this area in.

Trees usually aren’t allowed to grow here, but there’s always that exception. If you happen to have a maple tree, or any tree for that matter, growing along this area and it needs to be removed, you should reach out to your officials to find out the proper procedure.

You may be able to find information on your town, city or county website about this subject.

If you can’t find the proper information you may have to call or email someone to find out for sure. Since the tree is on town or city property, you may be able to get it removed by them.

The Best Time To Cut Down A Maple Tree

When it comes to cutting trees down, leave it to the professionals. Unless of course, it’s a little sapling. The minor cost savings compared to the potential damage that can occur aren’t worth the risk.

That being said, when is the actual BEST time to cut down your maple tree?

Simply put, if your maple tree is presenting an immediate issue such as insect damage, extreme rot, storm damage, branches hanging etc., then you should call a professional ASAP to remove the tree.

If it’s something where the maple tree is just messy, then you may be able to wait and put it off until the Fall when prices from local arborists may be a bit cheaper as it’s usually not as busy for them. You could also wait to save up for the expense as well!

So go ahead and call the professional arborist, they have the equipment, the trucks, and the manpower to handle any job with the utmost safety. Peace of mind can be priceless.

Wrapping Up!

While it might hurt your heart to have your favorite maple tree cut down, sometimes it simply can’t be avoided. When the tree starts to lean, it’s just too close to the house, or the roots are causing you endless headaches, it’s time to get it “outta there!”

If you want to start new with a small maple sapling, you should read out article on the 9 best maple trees to plant!

Once that tree is gone, maybe it’s time to replace it with something a little smaller. A nice dogwood possibly, a Japanese maple, or if you prefer evergreens, you can’t go wrong with a dwarf cypress or small blue spruce. 

References

Lusk, Anne C., Demóstenes Ferreira da Silva Filho, and Lea Dobbert. “Pedestrian and cyclist preferences for tree locations by sidewalks and cycle tracks and associated benefits: Worldwide implications from a study in Boston, MA.” Cities 106 (2020): 102111.

Morgenroth, Justin, Jarlath O’Neil-Dunne, and Luis A. Apiolaza. “Redevelopment and the urban forest: A study of tree removal and retention during demolition activities.” Applied Geography 82 (2017): 1-10.

Campanella, Bruno, André Toussaint, and Roger Paul. “Mid-term economical consequences of roadside tree topping.” Urban Forestry & Urban Greening 8.1 (2009): 49-53. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1618866708000587 

McKenzie, Rita, and Urban Forester. What’s Wrong with Topping Trees?. Purdue University, Forestry and Natural Resources, 2000.

When looking to accent your landscape with trees, maples are often one of the top choices for homeowners. They come in many sizes, and their foliage can be stunning. Maple trees can create beautiful focal points, provide shade, and even increase property value, but what are the best maple trees to plant?

Maple trees thrive in yards that get a steady amount of sun and have little to no obstructions underground. Some of the best maple trees to plant in your yard include sugar, Japanese, red, black, paperbark, crimson king, or silver maple trees.

Whether you have a small yard or an expansive sea of grass, you can find the right maple tree for your area. We’ll include trees hardy to many growth zones, small trees, and large trees, and we’ll include any pros and cons that go along with these trees. Let’s get to it!

About The Mighty Maple Tree

There are over 125 different species of maple trees across the world, but only 12 varieties are native to North America. Most maple trees can be recognized by their distinctive five or seven lobed leaves—think of the Canadian flag—but there are others that have completely different leaf shapes.

Some maple varieties can grow to well over 100 feet tall, while others won’t surpass five feet in height. Maple trees are deciduous, meaning they lose their leaves in cold weather, though in some places along the Mediterranean region, they never lose their leaves.

Some maple trees have shallow roots that will seek water sources, such as drain pipes, irrigation lines, or septic tanks. These roots can squeeze themselves into the tiniest of spaces and bust open or clog these lines, so caution needs to be exercised with certain species.

Most maple trees can be tapped in order to collect sap for syrup production, the sugar maple—which is native to Eastern Canada and the Eastern United States—is the most commercially tapped variety.

What Maple Trees Are Best For Your Yard?

This can be a tough question to answer without getting a good bit of information first. Consider the size of your yard, how many buildings you have on your property, and what you are looking to accomplish with the maple tree to start with.

Do you want some shade? Are you looking for a striking focal point for your flower garden? Do you want beautiful colors for a particular season? Or maybe a combination of all these reasons?

Your particular grow zone and soil type will also need to be considered because, while some maples are very tolerant, others require specific conditions for optimal growth.

Japanese Maple Tree

The Japanese maple is popular among many gardeners and homeowners alike. They typically have bold colors that last throughout most of the growing season or show up in early fall.

They can grow upright or droop down in showy cascading patterns and have distinctive leaf shapes.

While there are many subspecies of Japanese maples, we will focus on the two most popular varieties; the Bloodgood maple, and the dwarf Japanese maple—of which there are many cultivars.

You can get your own Japanese Red Maple Tree right here. These will grow well in zones 5 to 8!

Bloodgood Japanese Maple Tree

Name	Acer palmatum Bloodgood
Average size	15’ to 20’
Hardiness zones	5 – 8
Conditions	Full sun. Slightly acidic, well-draining soil.

Bloodgood Japanese maple trees are the most common Japanese maple tree that comes to mind when you think of the species. They’re truly a beautiful addition to any yard and they’re an accent tree to boot!

Dwarf Japanese Maples Tree

Name	Acer palmatum (various)
Average size	6’to 8’
Hardiness zone	5 – 9
Conditions	Full to partial sun. Soft, well-drained soils.

Most dwarf Japanese maple trees are very slow-growing, and often mounding shrub-like trees. They often have layers of thin, wispy branches with bright showy, or lacy leaves which make them perfect focal specimens.

They are perfect for small yards that won’t allow full-sized, towering trees.

Pros:

Overall, Japanese maples work great in smaller yards because they don’t get exceptionally tall or wide. They are easy to trim because of their smaller stature and they show off deep, crimson leaves throughout the growing season.

Since these trees don’t grow very tall or get thick and hefty, you won’t have to worry about them falling down onto your house or garage.

Their roots are not terribly invasive like other varieties of maple trees, meaning these roots won’t be lifting your sidewalk or digging into water pipes.

They can be a great focal point around a flower garden, or help to break up a bare yard with some striking color.

Cons:

Overall, problems for Japanese maples include relatively weak branches and trunks and the price tag. Heavy snow, extreme winds, or thick ice will break branches.

Japanese maples can be quite expensive depending on the species and how old they are. Often even smaller trees only a few years old will be upwards of $100-$200.

While Japanese maples rarely suffer from serious insect infestation or other maladies, they can get cankers, root rot, and pests like aphids and mites.

Sugar Maple Tree

Name	Acer saccharum
Average size	50’ to 75’ tall
Hardiness zone	4 – 8
Conditions	Full sun to partial shade. Well-drained, moist soil.

Pros:

These giants are the trees that produce the sap which can be boiled down into scrumptious maple syrup (sugar maple trees are actually one of the best maple syrup trees!)

They also create show-stopping colors in the fall. Their deep emerald leaves will glow yellow as the temps drop, then they transform to orange, and finally deep red.

If you are looking for a tree that will wow friends, family, and neighbors with rich autumn colors, the sugar maple is a superb choice.

Just make sure you have plenty of yard for this big tree or it could cause some major headaches. They need to be planted at least 30 feet away from your house or other structures.

Sugar maple roots are not considered to be invasive, but you should still map out plenty of space for them when you plant the small sapling. Just because these roots aren’t considered invasive doesn’t mean they won’t dig into your underground pool if the tree is planted close by.

This maple tree is probably one of the most cold-tolerant of the species found in North America. If you are worried about harsh winters and planting trees, this variety will probably be able to handle it.

The wood of sugar maple trees also has commercial uses and makes great smelling, hot burning firewood, but you’re probably not planting it hoping to make furniture or heat your house.

Cons:

When planting saplings, especially in hotter climates, you’ll have to watch out for sun scald. What happens is the bark can create small cracks during the winter when the sap freezes. During the summer months, the heat damages the soft growing tissue underneath the bark, causing severe damage to the trunk.

Severe sun scald can be a game ender to trees, especially newer sugar maple tree saplings.

Once sugar maple trees are established, they can create a dense upper canopy that makes it hard for other vegetation to grow beneath these trees. The leaves create a near-constant blanket of shade, and rainwater drops around the drip edge. Think of a sugar maple as nature’s umbrella.

Some plants can tolerate shade well enough (maple trees generally need more sun than shade), but few can survive long periods of drought.

You’ll have to water underneath large maple trees constantly or have a big bed of mulch to keep from having a barren wasteland underneath them.

You’ll also need a lot of space to plant sugar maples. Small or medium-sized yards will have a hard time accommodating all the space these trees take up. They also don’t do well in busy urban areas, as pollution and emissions can shorten their lives.

Some maple varieties can be susceptible to fungal afflictions and insect pests. Sugar maples could get anthracnose fungus or leaf spots as well as defoliating insects such as tent caterpillars and gypsy moths.

For zones 4 through 8, especially on the eastern side of North America, you can have your own Sugar Maple Shade Tree shipped to your door. They are 2’ to 3’ saplings.

Paperbark Maple Tree

Name	Acer griseum
Average size	20’ to 30’
Hardiness zone	5 – 7
Conditions	Full sun to partial sun. Needs watering in times of drought, will tolerate acidic soil.

Pros:

The paperbark maple is another smaller specimen of maple that can work well in small or medium-sized yards. This tree resembles birch trees with the peeling habit of the bark, but it still grows the iconic “winged” seed pods that some affectionately call “helicopter seeds.”

Most of these seeds end up being sterile, so you won’t have to cut down, or pull up a ton of paperbark seedlings every year.

The paperbark maple’s tolerance of shade means you can plant them underneath larger trees or areas the sun barely touches.

They also work great as focal points in any garden. Their birch-like bark peels away to reveal cinnamon-colored bark underneath that is stunning in the bleak, colorless winter.

The paperbark maple is a slow-growing tree that will eventually reach heights of 25 to 30 feet tall. The green leaves will darken to a beautiful scarlet red in the fall, making it an excellent showpiece.

Cons:

This variety of maple has very few cons. One is that it can be a messy tree. Smaller branches fall off during storms, and the peeling bark can be a minor nuisance.

Leafminers can inhabit the paperbark causing extra leaf drop, but other than that, these trees are about as easy to grow as they come.

Silver Maple Tree

Name	Acer saccharinum
Average size	60’ to 80’
Hardiness zone	3 – 9
Conditions	Full sun. Moist, acidic soil.

Pros:

This maple tree is aptly named because of the silvery undersides of the leaves and the similarly colored bark. In some communities, people believe they can tell a storm is coming when the leaves all turn silver. Strong winds flip the leaves over and around, revealing the silver color.

Silver maples have recently become more popular in home landscapes because they grow so rapidly, and produce a lot of shade in a relatively short time.

These trees can grow large, up to 80’ tall, and have massive trunks. This is also one of the most striking features of the silver maple. In the winter, the trunk and limbs are a sight to behold.

Silver maples were prized in the pioneering days, according to The Arbor Day Foundation. They say settlers of the Ohio Valley loved silver maples for their willingness to grow in a variety of soils and their fast growth. These settlers also preferred to make syrup from silver maple sap, though they didn’t produce as quickly as sugar maples.

Cons:

With the exceptionally fast growth, comes weaker wood. This maple variety has a problem with dropping limbs easily, so be careful where you plant them. You’ll want to make sure they are a suitable distance away from any buildings.

The roots of silver maples are notoriously invasive. They will stretch out and clog up septic drain lines, or dig their way into any small, leaking supply line. They will also push up sidewalks and paving stones.

These fast-growing trees need a lot of space, so you’ll have to have a good-sized yard to let these trees free.

Red Maple Tree

Name	Acer rubrum
Average size	40’ to 60’
Hardiness zone	3 – 9
Conditions	Full sun to partial shade. Tolerates most soil types.

Pros:

The red maple is aptly named because it likes to show off something red during every season.

In spring, there are small red flowers. During summer, the leaf stalks turn red, while in autumn the leaves themselves glow a deep crimson red, and in winter, the tree has pops of red buds all over.

The red maple is very similar to the sugar maple. The fundamental difference—which isn’t that big—are the leaves. Red maple leaves have a V-shaped groove between the lobes, while the sugar maple has a more U-shaped groove.

This tree grows faster than sugar maple trees, but not as fast as silver maples. These trees are also very cold hardy, but they can withstand hot temperatures as well, so they do well in most U.S. grow zones.

Cons:

Red maples easily get fungal infections that cause leaves to drop and weaken them. Limbs and trunks can sustain damage fairly easily, which can allow rot to set in. To combat these issues, keep the trees as healthy as possible.

Their roots, though not as invasive as silver maple, are still shallow. This makes mowing difficult. Sidewalks and driveways near red maples will inevitably get cracked and raised by the shallow root structure.

Check out these to start your own Red Maple Shade Tree!. They are live trees and shipped when they are between 2’ and 3’ tall.

Korean Maple Tree

Name	Acer pseudosieboldiana
Average size	15’ to 25’
Hardiness zone	4 – 8
Conditions	Full sun to partial shade. Moist well-drained soil. Doesn’t tolerate drought.

Pros:

These trees are similar to Japanese maples as they are similarly sized, but they can withstand cooler temperatures. If you have tried Japanese maples but the winter devastated them, a Korean maple might be what you’re looking for.

They can grow in shady areas, don’t get very tall, and take well to containers. In the spring these maple trees sprout little purple flowers, then continue the color show in autumn when the leaves turn rich, deep red.

Korean maple trees don’t get very large, so you can plant them in smaller yards, or group several of them together in larger plots.

Cons:

These trees are quite cold hardy, and they don’t have many major problems. They are susceptible to leaf fungus, and some insects, but a healthy Korean maple will easily survive most afflictions.

Tatarian Maple Tree

Name	Acer tataricum
Average size	15’ to 20’
Hardiness zone	3 – 8
Conditions	Full sun to partial shade. Any well-draining soil

Pros:

The best thing about these maple trees is they will grow in nearly any soil type as long as they don’t sit in water. They will even grow in loam and clay soil if it drains well.

Tatarian maple trees are also fast-growing, shorter trees that will reach their max height soon. Once they are finished with the adolescent growth spurt, they take on the “dad-bod” and start growing as wide as they are tall.

While these maples will grow in shady areas, they do best in full sun conditions. Like most other maple trees on our list, they put on a beautiful colored leaf show in the fall.

Since they stay relatively small and wide, they work well in smaller landscapes where massive trees just can’t grow.

Cons:

Tatarian maple trees originated in Korea and China, so they are an introduced species to other countries like North America.

Since they can tolerate several temperature extremes and most soil conditions, they are considered invasive in many areas.

Black Maple Tree

Name	Acer saccharum nigrum
Average size	50’ to 75’
Hardiness zone	4 – 8
Conditions	Full sun.

Pros:

Black maples are very similar to sugar maples. In fact, they are considered a close cousin. They can still be tapped to make maple syrup and grow to a similar height.

Mature black maples fill out into a pleasing, rounded shape and will glow with yellows, oranges, and reds in fall like sugar maples. Since they get quite large and can live for well over 100 years, plant these trees where they have plenty of space to grow.

If you are looking for a great shade tree, then a black maple might fit the bill. Their canopies stretch out up to 50 in diameter, giving you plenty of cooling area in a wide open yard.

Cons:

These trees don’t have major issues to worry about. Minor problems include leaf scorch, fungus, and boring insects. They also don’t do well around coastal areas, the salt will hamper growth.

They are also not very tolerant of air pollution. These trees prefer clean, country air.

The Best Time To Plant Maple Trees

Technically, trees can be planted nearly any time the ground isn’t frozen, but to give them the best chance, fall is the optimal time.

When a tree’s roots are disturbed, they need time to establish themselves before the trees should start spending nutrients and energy on leaf growth. The best time for undisturbed root stimulation is the fall.

The tree goes through its dormant phase and can get the roots settled before winter sets in.

Summer isn’t a good time to plant trees because the heat and typically dry conditions can stress the plant. Trees pl›anted in summer don’t get the water, or the time needed to establish themselves. Weakened and stressed trees have a hard time fighting off insects and other afflictions.

If you’ve decided that you need to move your maple tree, you can take a look at our piece on transporting your maple tree here!

Why Not Plant Maple Trees In The Spring?

Spring tree planting may seem like the best time for them because that’s when they wake up from their dormancy. Leaves grow, April showers and all that, so it would theoretically seem like the perfect planting time.

While this may be true for flowers and some other species of trees, for maples, spring planting isn’t the perfect season for them. Maple trees produce a lot of sap that they have to push through the trunk and up to the leaf buds to make them expand and grow.

If the trees are trying to establish a strong root system—the roots are like the heart of the plant—then they can’t afford to expend more energy on growing leaves and new branches. Trees will work on roots first and foremost, while everything else comes in second.

Planting in fall will give the tree time to get a strong, healthy root system developed, then it will be ready for spring and the seasons beyond.

Don’t Prune Maple Trees In Spring Either

Again, pruning is often a spring or early winter activity. However, for maple trees, spring pruning can be harmful to them. This again has to do with sap production.

While trees can afford to lose some sap—thank goodness or maple syrup might not be a thing—it’s required to prepare them for leaf production. Maple trees produce a lot of sap, and the bigger they are, the more sap is needed for bushing out the wide leaf canopy.

Cutting the limbs around this heavy sap production and movement time will cause the trees to “bleed” more profusely and could result in a weakened tree. Just like humans, when trees aren’t feeling their best, infections have an easier time setting in.

When you prune or have your maple trees pruned, try to schedule it for fall. The tree won’t lose so much sap, the wounds will heal better, and it will be healthier overall.

How Long Do Maple Trees Live?

A properly cared for maple tree, depending on the species, can live between 80 to 300 years. Sugar maples tend to be the longest-lived of them, as some have been reported to live for 400 years.

Red maples often can grow for over 300 years, while the fast-growing silver maples live hard and fast. They typically last about a century before giving up the ghost.

The slow-growing Japanese maple will often live to the ripe old age of 100. Depending on the variety, you could have a tree that will last for several generations.

If you want to expand the longevity of your maple tree, take a look at our piece on the best maple tree fertilizers!

That’s All We’ve Got!

Maples, like all trees, have plenty of pros and cons, and quite a variety to choose from for all your landscaping needs. If you want a long-lived, giant shade tree, silver, red, or sugar maple might be your pick.

If instead, you want something a bit easier to manage that won’t engulf your smaller yard, then Japanese, Korean, or a paper bark maple might be just what you need.

All the maple varieties in this list will give you plenty of beautiful fall color, while some will even continue providing a colorful show throughout the winter. Whatever you are looking for, maple trees can probably check off the boxes!

References:

Wada, Naoya, and Eric Ribbens. “Japanese maple (Acer palmatum var. matsumurae, Aceraceae) recruitment patterns: seeds, seedlings, and saplings in relation to conspecific adult neighbors.” American Journal of Botany 84.9 (1997): 1294-1300.

Godman, Richard M., Harry W. Yawney, and Carl H. Tubbs. “Acer saccharum Marsh. sugar maple.” Silvics of North America 2.654 (1990): 78.

Saeki, Ikuyo, et al. “Comparative phylogeography of red maple (Acer rubrum L.) and silver maple (Acer saccharinum L.): impacts of habitat specialization, hybridization and glacial history.” Journal of Biogeography 38.5 (2011): 992-1005.