Resources - Tree Journey | TradeWorks Revenue System™

9 Reasons To Cut Down Your Pine Tree And When To Do It

Pine trees can be great. They offer shade during hot days, look majestic as they tower overhead, and can provide privacy and protection from strong winds. Sometimes, though, they can be a pain and you may need to cut your pine tree down!

You may need to cut down your pine tree if it’s leaning too far in one direction, the tree is no longer healthy, it’s creating a big mess, or it took some damage from a storm and will end up coming down on its own. If you can wait to cut it down, you should get a better price in the Fall or Winter.

Though trees often hold sentimental value to homeowners, there are good reasons for removing them. Possibly because they have become a problem to property or people, but there could be other reasons as well. Keep reading as we go over all the reasons to cut down your pine tree!

Maybe Your Pine Tree Just Needs A Trim

Often, trees need to be pruned to stay healthy. Pruning can open up the tree to allow plenty of airflow through all the branches and reduce fungal afflictions. It can also allow sunlight to penetrate lower branches so the tree doesn’t grow too top-heavy.

Proper pruning can also keep your trees living longer. For trees that aren’t too tall, and only need a bit of pruning, try out this Sun Joe 10-inch 8.0 Amp Electric Multi-Angle Pole Chain Saw. It is completely electric, so you won’t have to mix gas and oil, and the telescoping pole will help you reach higher branches.

For trees that require large limbs to be cut, if they are very tall, or if you don’t have much experience trimming trees yourself, consider calling a professional to tackle the big jobs.

Now, with that out of the way so you DON’T just go lop down that beautiful tree, let’s get to the good stuff.

If you do decide you need to go the pruning route, you should contact an arborist as well for large trees. Take a look at our guide on the best time to prune large trees if you fancy!

9 Reasons You Should Cut Down Your Pine Tree

Big pine on a glade on the background of mountains and blue sky.

Pine trees are fast-growing, magnificent trees, but they can become a nuisance or even a larger problem.

When these trees pose too much of a risk or become too expensive to maintain, you’ll need to have them removed by a professional tree service. Let’s get to it!

Your Pine Tree Is Too Close To Your House

Whether you planted the tree yourself when it was only a sapling, or you bought your house with a nearby pine tree, if it is too close, you should have the tree removed. You should plant trees no closer than 15 to 20 feet to a structure. Trees that can get very tall will need more distance from the house.

The roots from pine trees aren’t considered invasive, so they shouldn’t cause foundation damage under normal circumstances. The problems that arise from pine trees that are too close to structures are limbs falling, pine needles getting everywhere, and trees falling onto the house.

If you have a sapling, then you might be able to transplant the tree, but once established, moving it becomes less feasible.

If you’re still thinking of cutting down your pine tree, you can take a look at our guide on what to do with pine wood here!

Remove A Pine Tree After Irreversible Storm Damage

Storms can severely damage a pine tree. Hail, ice, snow, lightning, and wind damage can cripple even the strongest of pine trees.

For instance, did you know that pine trees are one of the most likely trees to get struck by lightning?

They are a softer wood compared to most deciduous trees such as oaks, maples, and birches, so storms can damage pine trees fairly easily.

Ice and snow can become too much for the limbs to bear, causing them to break off, while powerful gusts of wind can snap trunks, or leave them structurally unsound. Whatever has caused the damage, after a heavy storm, inspect your pine trees to see if they need to be removed.

Trees that have damaged trunks or lost large limbs might have to be cut down because they lost the original structural integrity. After losing limbs, pine trees can become lopsided and end up falling.

Sometimes storm damage can leave a tree susceptible to insect damage and disease. When a tree cannot heal itself properly, it becomes a target for pests and fungus, which can weaken it further.

After your pine trees take storm damage, you might need to get an arborist out to inspect it thoroughly to see if it is healthy enough to survive or let you know the tree needs to come down.

You May Have To Remove Your Pine Tree After Insects Or Fungus Have Settled In

Healthy pines can usually fight off most insect invaders with sap or other defense mechanisms. However, when a tree is stressed or unhealthy, it has trouble fighting afflictions and bugs.

Stress on a tree can happen during times of drought, if the soil is severely lacking nutrients, or the tree isn’t getting enough sunlight.

Damage to the tree or improper trimming techniques can also cause an otherwise healthy tree to become weak and susceptible to illness and insect invasion.

According to Purdue University, insects such as borers that attack vigorous, healthy pine trees can be repelled through a strong sap flow. Healthy trees have the energy to fight off afflictions these boring insects can bring as well.

Basically, pine trees that get ample sun, water, and nutrients can defend themselves very well, but if your tree already has issues it may be too late.

Bark beetles and borers can be identified by the small holes you might find around the main trunk and sometimes in larger branches. You might also see small piles of sawdust underneath the holes.

These insects dig into the tree, underneath the bark where the living tree tissue grows and there they tunnel through the tree and lay eggs.

The larvae then travel through the living tree tissue, eating it and disrupting the nutrient and water flow of the tree. When the damage is extensive enough, trees have trouble providing nourishment to the top of the tree.

Another indication of an insect invasion is woodpeckers. These birds eat insects such as bark beetles and borers, so if you find your pine trees are suddenly attracting a lot of these birds, you might have a bug problem.

A quick side bar, we just cut down 3 rotted pine trees in our backyard that were FILLED with woodpecker holes. The trees were already rotted, but the woodpeckers definitely had their way with it.

If you notice strange coloration in the pine needles or premature browning followed by more than normal needle drop, your tree may have fungus! Wilting needles even though the trees are getting plenty of water can be a sign of a larger issue.

Fungal issues in trees can generally be treated with fungicides, while others reside in the soil and can be extremely difficult to eradicate. Some fungicides are available through retail outlets that can treat some of these maladies, but you’ll have to know exactly what fungi are on your trees. To know for sure, you should always consult an arborist who can recommend the proper treatments.

When insect damage or fungal problems have become too expensive to treat, or you’ve fixed the problem but it’s come back, cutting the pine tree down may just be the best option at this point!

Your Pine Looks More Like The Leaning Tower Of “Tree-za”

Leaning pine on a cliff on the beach. Landscape with clear Sunny weather.

Tall, top-heavy pine trees don’t have the same sturdy strength as oaks. When too much pressure is applied to pine tree trunks, they can snap and fall.

Most pine trees have long taproots that reach deep into the soil to anchor it and get nutrients. When something topples a pine tree, most times, the trunk breaks, leaving the roots still attached to the ground.

Trees that have a pronounced lean to them can be a threat to property and anything around them. Accumulating snow or ice can send them falling, or high gusts of wind can finish them off.

When a tree has become lopsided for some reason, or it is simply leaning too far, there’s not much that can be done to correct the problem. Sometimes corrective trimming can fix the lopsided tree, but a “leaner” will only continue to get worse until it ultimately falls.

Another problem some pine trees face is they get very top-heavy. As pine trees grow taller, their lower branches can weaken and fall off. This happens mainly because they stop getting enough sunlight to sustain them.

The top canopy of the tree continues to grow taller, leaving a long trunk that is susceptible to breaking. When your pine trees get very tall, or they take on a lean, you might need to have them taken down to prevent any unwanted falling trees.

Maybe You’re Tired Of Cleaning Up The Pine’s Mess

Pine trees can be messy. They drop needles year-round, especially during the fall, but there are also issues with pollen coating everything, pinecones you have to remove every time before you mow, and the constant barrage of small limbs and twigs.

If you have a pine tree anywhere near your house, you have probably had to either clean the gutters yourself or have hired someone to clean them out. Pine needles will clog gutters quickly, and they drop all year long, unlike most deciduous trees that drop their leaves during the fall.

Even if you have a type of leaf guard on your gutters, pine needles seem to find their way in. Obviously not as much as without them, but they are notorious for getting everywhere. Pine tree pollen can also accumulate around the leaf guards and will need to be wiped periodically for them to work most efficiently.

Aside from having to pick up pine cones and small branches before mowing, to keep any type of grass growing underneath a pine tree, you’ll have to manage all the needles that fall. Too many needles on the ground can choke off the grass and leave the area underneath the pine tree a barren wasteland.

If you’re completely exhausted because of the constant cleaning battle between you and the pine tree, it’s probably time to consider having those pine trees evicted from the property.

You Can’t Get Any Grass To Grow Under Your Pines

It can be difficult to grow grass under any type of tree, but there’s just something about a pine tree that increases that challenge to near impossible. The patch of brown needles and dirt that always accompanies the perimeter of your pine trees can mar a beautiful lawn.

Many people think grass can’t grow under pine trees because the needles raise the acidity of the soil, but that is a myth.

The University of New Hampshire busted the myth that pine trees make the soil acidic, they say; though it’s true soil near pine trees is often acidic, that’s because pine trees will grow better in acidic soil, but they do not create acidic soil themselves. Sometimes nothing will grow underneath a pine tree because of shallow roots, too much shade, and pine needles can quickly smother other plants.

Pine needles are slightly acidic, but when they break down, microorganisms neutralize the acid. That’s one reason pine mulch won’t lower the pH of the soil and is a good mulch option for trees and flowerbeds.

You can learn more about why trees sometimes prefer acidic soil here.

The main reason grass won’t grow under pine trees is because it doesn’t get enough sun and rain. Most grasses require plenty of sunlight and a lot of water to stay healthy. Pine tree canopies are often compact, very shady, and let very little water seep through when it rains.

The needles that drop also act as a natural mulch barrier to block out still more sunlight and choke off any chance for grass or weed seeds to take root.

Some pine trees also have shallow roots that can limit how much soil is available for plants to grow underneath them. Combine all these reasons, and you often get a miniature dust bowl underneath your pine trees.

Since pine trees love acidic soil, your soil might have a low pH, which limits nutrients for grasses and other plants. To give your grass a fighting chance, try a lime soil additive such as Jobe’s Additive De-Acidifier. This pelletized lime will help to neutralize the soil to give grass a fighting chance.

If you’ve already tried over and over to plant grass or flowers underneath your pine tree but nothing takes, maybe it’s time to get it out of there.

The Pine Tree Is Already On Its Way Out

Trees can live for hundreds of years, but like everything else, they only have so long before they kick the bucket. A tree that has ended its cycle can be a problematic thing. It dries out and becomes brittle, which can cause large chunks to fall, or send the entire tree falling.

When you know the tree is no longer flourishing, have it removed before it can do any damage.

Rather, if your pine tree is just not growing, then that’s another issue entirely.

Your Pine Tree Costs Too Much To Maintain

Trees can certainly hold sentimental value. If your grandparents planted it, you remember growing up, playing around it, or you had a tire swing in it, a tree can hold a lot of memories.

For these reasons and more, you may want to do everything you can to save it. Afflictions and insects can sometimes be treated. Mild storm damage can be repaired. However, if the pine tree costs too much to keep alive, maybe it’s time to say goodbye to an old friend.

It’s unfortunate, but it happens. Although, you can look at it as an opportunity to replace the old, worn-out tree with another one, and start making new memories with a brand new tree.

Have The Pine Tree Removed If It’s Too Close To Power Lines

Trees and power lines don’t mix, but they often come in contact with each other. Tree branches can put a strain on the electrical lines, or snap them when branches fall, so they are often cut back away to prevent this.

Sometimes new lines go in, and it’s the tree that suffers. Power companies will cut away the tree to make way for the new power lines, which often leaves the tree looking like they butchered it. While some trees can recover from aggressive trimming, most times they are left in a weakened state.

Trees can also become electrified if they come in contact with exposed electrical lines. Tree branches can wear away the insulated coating around the wires, and when this happens, the tree can carry a current.

When trees and power lines combine, the best thing to do is have the tree removed. Call a professional tree service to manage this task, because they will probably have to contact the electric company to have the power turned off for safety, while they cut it.

You can also try to get the power company to pay for this venture as its been known to happen!

When Is The Best Time To Cut Down Your Pine Tree?

Felling big coniferous pine tree logs at forest landscape.

If your pine tree poses a threat to health and safety, then it should be professionally removed as soon as possible. If the tree has sustained storm damage, if it’s leaning over too far, or has lost its structural integrity, don’t wait to have it cut down.

When the tree is fairly healthy, and it doesn’t appear to be ready to topple at any given moment, then you can wait for a good deal from a professional tree company.

There’s a busy season and a slow season for the tree removal business. During the warm months, and especially after some heavy storms have rolled through, you’ll probably end up paying more for your tree removal. But if it’s safe to wait a little while, call them up during the late fall and winter months.

When business is slow, you can probably find coupons or specials that can save you money. They need the business to keep everyone working and paid so you could find some good deals if you ask!

This Is All Wrapped Up!

Pine trees are grand to have around your property. They can make your landscape look inviting and aesthetically pleasing, remove carbon dioxide from the air, and they can offer shade or a buffer to heavy winds.

Unfortunately, sometimes it’s better to have them removed. If they are constantly battling insect invasion or fungal issues, they should be taken down. Trees that are too close to your house, other structures, or too near power lines might have to be cut down as well.

Pine trees that are leaning, have storm damage, or are no longer living should be removed as well.

Whenever you have a tree removed from your yard, consider replacing it with another tree. You can always find smaller trees that don’t get as tall or maybe replace them with ornamental trees that have beautiful, striking features.

Best of luck with your pine!

References

Vicente, Cláudia SL, et al. “Insights into the role of fungi in pine wilt disease.” Journal of Fungi 7.9 (2021): 780.

Boyd, I. L., et al. “The consequence of tree pests and diseases for ecosystem services.” Science 342.6160 (2013): 1235773.

Cheyney, E. G. “The roots of a jack pine tree.” Journal of Forestry 30.8 (1932): 929-932.

Yang, Jae E., et al. “Soil nutrient bioavailability and nutrient content of pine trees (Pinus thunbergii) in areas impacted by acid deposition in Korea.” Environmental monitoring and Assessment 157.1 (2009): 43-50.

By Zack DeAngelis
July 13, 2022

9 Common Citrus Trees That Are Actually Evergreens

Citrus trees are often associated with warm, tropical climates like Florida, Hawaii, and California. In these areas, winter isn’t some cold, dark season where trees lose their leaves and go dormant. Most citrus trees are evergreens and keep producing fruits all year!

Some of the most common citrus trees that are evergreens include orange, lime, lemon, mandarin, calamondin, grapefruit, kumquat, tangerine, and pummelo. Within’ each of those broad citrus tree categories are specific types of citrus trees such as Valencia oranges or Meyer lemons.

Below we’ll go over the 9 most common citrus trees that are evergreens and where they grow. Let’s get to it!

How Can Citrus Trees Be Evergreen?

Before we get into the specific types of citrus trees that are evergreen, let’s answer the question of why they are evergreen?

Citrus trees are evergreen because they grow in warm climates. Trees that drop their leaves do so because cold conditions make keeping the tree alive more difficult.

Dropping leaves is a way to conserve energy so they do not need to deliver nutrients to each leaf and can keep that food and energy for the main part of the tree – the trunk and branches.

Because most citrus trees never see snow, they can keep their leaves throughout the year and don’t have to worry too much about conserving energy.

However, one minor adaptation that citrus trees have is that their leaves are typically smaller than those on deciduous trees. This conserves energy and is just one more reason why citrus trees are evergreen.

According to Clemson University, the satsuma mandarin, kumquats, and grapefruit are some of the most cold-hardy citrus fruits.

But wait, what about the evergreen trees that grow in cold climates? Not all evergreen trees live in tropical climates. Some have special adaptations that allow them to survive cold conditions AND keep their leaves.

Citrus trees are not so lucky and must live in warm tropical or subtropical climates to keep their leaves all year.

Evergreen Orange Trees

Like most citrus trees, oranges feel at home in sunny, warm, tropical climates. They originated from Asia but are now grown in many different countries including the United States.

In the US, oranges can grow in portions of California, Alabama, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, Texas, Arizona, and Florida. Florida produces the most oranges, which comes as no surprise since Florida’s state fruit is the orange!

But when we say ‘orange’ we’re not referring to just one single fruit. There are tons of varieties of oranges. Some of the most common orange variates include:

Sweet orange
Bitter orange
Blood orange
Valencia orange
Navel orange

According to the University of Florida, navel oranges are the most popular orange cultivated in Florida because they can be eaten fresh or used for orange juice. Valencia oranges are used extensively for orange juice.

Orange trees can grow up to around 50 feet but typically reach around 25 feet. They prefer temperatures to be between close to 55℉ and 100℉.

These subtropical trees can survive brief cold periods but are often injured and damaged if exposed for too long. They thrive in hardiness zones 9-11.

Indoor planting is possible for orange trees, but don’t expect the fruit to develop very fast. It can take up to a year for an orange to fully develop. However, the benefit of planting indoors is that you can live in the cold north and still grow fresh oranges!

There are a few different suggestions on how often you should water oranges, but many people (including us) suggest to water them every few days!

Lime Trees Are Evergreen

Limes are used in a ton of different stuff. Of course, key limes are used in pies, but limes are also used in beverages, food dishes, and as a cleaning agent.

These versatile fruits are thought to have originated in southeast Asia, but their origin is not 100% known. The most common lime is the Tahitian lime (also known as Persian lime), which is what you will find in grocery stores. Kaffir and Key Lime are two more common lime varieties.

Most lime trees thrive in hardiness zones 9-11, similar to orange trees. However, unlike oranges, limes are not commercially grown in the United States. At least, not in numbers significant enough to report.

According to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), Florida used to be a major commercial lime producer. An unfortunate combination of canker afflictions, tropical storms, and population increases created a trifecta that halted commercial lime production in Florida for good.

Now, lime trees grow in places like Mexico, Brazil, and Australia. Growing in such warm climates means there’s no need to drop leaves to go into a dormant period. This is the main reason why lime trees are evergreens.

That being said, homeowners can still grow lime trees in their yards if the conditions are right. Limes can also be planted indoors in pots.

Lime trees typically grow to about 20 feet. They love soaking up the sun and should be planted in well-drained soils. Lime trees can produce limes after their first year but produce more limes the older they are!

Lemon Trees Are Surprisingly Evergreen

Lemon trees like their environment the same way I do – never cold! They are one of the most cold-sensitive citrus trees and will not do well in any place that sees temperatures below freezing for more than a few hours.

A study published by ISHS looked at comparative cold tolerances between lemon trees, grapefruit trees, orange trees, and mandarin trees. When exposed to freezing temperatures for 10 hours, they found that lemon damage was the most severe of any other citrus tree.

Lemon trees originated in India and were brought to the United States around the late 1400s. According to the Wisconsin Department of Public Instruction, lemon trees were first cultivated in Florida and California in the US.

There are a few different varieties of lemon, some of the most popular including:

Meyer lemon
Ponderosa lemon
Eureka lemon

Meyer lemons are the most cold-hardy of the lemons as they are thought to be a cross between a true lemon and a sweet orange. No matter what kind of lemon tree you have, you’ll want to make sure it’s protected in cold weather.

You can use a shrub jacket like Gardaner Plant Covers Freeze Protection & Plant Frost Blanket to keep your lemon trees warm during cold snaps. This product is 85” X 75” (W X H), perfect for small lemon trees!

Depending on the variety of lemon, it will bear fruit at different times of the year. For example, Meyer and Ponderosa lemons bear fruit in the fall and winter, while Eureka lemons bear fruit in the spring and summer.

Along those same lines, the shape of the fruit will depend on when the tree bears fruit. Summer-bearers like Eureka lemons will have a rounder shape while Meyer and Ponderosa will be more oblong because they produce in the winter.

Lemon trees are a little more difficult than other citrus trees to grow indoors, but it can be done! They have a very dependable growth and fruit-bearing timeline. In fact, They will produce fruit after about three years, and once the trees flower, it takes between 4 and 12 months for a lemon to develop.

In the United States, lemon trees are grown commercially in California, Arizona, and to a lesser extent, Florida.

If you’d like to learn more, take a look at our piece and breakdown of the full lemon tree growth timeline!

Yes, Even Mandarin Trees Are Evergreen!

ripe mandarines growing on the tangerine tree

Mandarins are one of the four ‘core’ ancestral citrus species according to the University of Wisconsin-Madison. All other citrus fruits were derived from mandarins along with citron, pomelo, and papeda.

Mandarins originated from China and are closely related to satsumas, clementines, and tangerines, all of which appear as small oranges. They were first established in New Orleans and eventually made their way to Florida and California.

According to Purdue University, Alabama, Florida, and Mississippi are the main states that grow mandarins. They also grow in Texas, Georgia, and California.

These tiny orange trees grow in similar conditions to their bigger cousins, preferring temperatures between 55℉ and 100℉. They will go through a dormant period and sometimes bear fruit in alternating years.

As with other citrus trees, there are a variety of different mandarines including:

Changsha
Emperor
Willow-leaf

The Changsha mandarin is the most cold-hardy of the mandarins, surviving temperatures as low as 4℉ without perishing.

Other names for mandarin oranges include ‘cuties’ and ‘halo’ oranges, but these aren’t different varieties, just a nickname given to mandarins because of their small appearance and easy-to-peel skin.

Mandarin trees grow in hardiness zones 9 through 11 and will take about four years to bear fruit, depending on the variety. It takes a mandarin tree between six and eight months to develop a mandarin big enough to harvest.

Calamondin Trees Are Considered Evergreen

If you’ve never heard of calamondin fruit, don’t worry, you’re not the only one! Calamondin trees are grown more for their ornamental value than for any fruit they bear.

Calamondin trees grow acidic fruit that can be used similarly to lemons such as:

Marmalade
Frozen juice
Beverage flavoring
Calamondin-aide
Cakes & Pies
Squeezed over seafood

According to Texas A&M University, these trees will bloom and produce fruit all year long and go through 4 to 5 growth periods per year. In most cases, the tree will bear more fruit than you need.

Homeowners in hardiness zones 8A through 10B can enjoy these fruitful trees in their backyards.

Calamondin trees originated in Southeast Asia and are a cross between a mandarin orange and a kumquat. Just like other citrus trees, calamondin can grow in all of the southern-most states of the United States and California.

However, because they are the most cold-tolerant of any true citrus tree, they can creep up into Arkansas, South and North Carolina, Coastal Virginia, Utah, Oregon, and Washington.

According to an article in the International Society for Horticultural Science, temperatures around 86℉ during the day and 77℉ at night promote the fastest blooming for calamondin trees.

These little trees also reach a full height of only 12 to 14 feet, making them the perfect patio plant if you keep them pruned

They prefer sunny conditions but can tolerate partial shade. Similarly, they prefer warm temperatures but will survive down to 20℉.

Like almost all citrus trees, calamondin trees will self-pollinate, meaning you only need to plant one tree to get fruit! Fruits take about a year to mature, but because the calamondin tree goes through so many different growth periods, you’ll have fruit at all different stages all year long.

When harvesting calamondins, it’s important to clip the twig the fruit is growing on as opposed to picking the fruit off. Picking can damage the calamondin, which can spoil them within a day. Use pruning shears like Fiskar’s Bypass Pruning Shears to get a clean cut and promote future growth!

Evergreen Grapefruit Trees

Ripe Grapefruits On An Evergreen Citrus Tree

The grapefruit we see today is not at all what grapefruit looked like in the beginning. This fruit evolved as a mutation from the pummelo fruit and originally had white flesh, not red, and many seeds.

Now, this delicious fruit is near seedless with an orange peel and red flesh and is enjoyed in beverages, fruit cups, fruit salads, and eaten by itself at breakfast.

Grapefruits were first described in Barbados of the Caribbean Islands. In the United States, grapefruits made their first appearance in Florida but quickly moved onto Texas, Arizona, and California.

Just like oranges, grapefruits grow in hardiness zones 9 to 11, meaning only in the extreme southern and southwestern states of the US.

There are several different varieties of grapefruits, some of the more popular being:

Ruby Red
Henderson
Rio Red
Duncan
Redblush
Marsh

According to Texas A&M University, grapefruits grow best during hot days and warm nights as opposed to hot days and cool nights. The secret is in the sugar content, which tends to be higher when grown on hot days and warm nights.

Grapefruit trees need well-drained soil for maximum growth and prefer full sun. They are not very cold tolerant but have been known to bounce back even after below-freezing temperatures.

An article in the Journal of Food Chemistry found that chill injury can occur at temperatures as high as 53℉ but the damage was minor. At 35℉, the chill injury was far more severe.

Temperatures play an important role in determining the characteristics of a mature grapefruit. Colder temperatures and arid climates promote a tough peel, while humid, warm temperatures promote a thin peel.

Kumquat Trees Never Lose Their Leaves

Kumquat trees are one of the smallest evergreen citrus trees and are the smallest citrus fruit.

The trees only reach a height of about 8 to 10 feet. They’re used as ornamentals in many tropical and sub-tropical yards but also produce edible fruit!

The kumquat looks like a small orange and is very aromatic. It’s used in beverages and as toppings on food!

Like many citrus trees, the kumquat originated in China. Today, it is grown in hardiness zones 9-10, with most growth being in Florida, California, Alabama, and Louisiana.

Kumquats are a peculiar citrus tree in that they can withstand very cold temperatures, down to 10℉.

According to the University of Arizona, during this time the kumquat tree enters a state of dormancy and will remain in this state even after warm weather resumes for several weeks. That being said, kumquat trees prefer hot temperatures between 80℉ and 100℉.

Just like our other citrus fruits, kumquats have a few varieties with different characteristics:

Meiwa
Nagami
Hong Kong

Kumquat trees are great to have as ornamental trees. They can sometimes produce fruit after the first year but in other instances can take 4 to 5 years before fruit can be harvested from the tree.

Tangerine Trees Keep Their Foliage Year Round

We may have misled you a little bit with this one. Tangerines are a type of mandarin, which we already talked about.

To break it down, mandarins include satsumas, tangerines, and hybrids like the tangelo. However, in some cultures, tangerines are a completely different fruit and are considered a different species.

Either way, tangerine trees prefer lots of sun and are slightly tolerant of cold temperatures. They can survive in zone 8 but do best in warmer, subtropical, and tropical climates.

Both the kumquat and the tangerine tree cannot be planted from seed. Instead, you’ll want to purchase one from a nursery that’s already been grafted onto a rootstock. From here, you can plant them in a pot if you live in colder climates or outside in warmer climates.

In the United States, most tangerine trees are located in Florida, California, Texas, Georgia, and Alabama. Because they are hardier than other citrus trees, they have a similar range to calamondins than to mandarins. Tangerines are originally from southeast Asia.

Pummelo Trees Are Evergreen

closeup of green pomelo fruits on a tree

Opposite of the kumquat, the pummelo is the largest citrus fruit. The pummelo tree itself can grow up to 50ft tall but averages around 20 to 30 feet.

The pummelo tree is originally from Malaysia and Southeast Asia. It grows in hardiness zones 9 through 11 in the United States. Unsurprisingly, it is mostly cultivated in Florida and California. However, it can still thrive in all of the southernmost states of the U.S. as well.

Pummelo trees have a ton of variations, the list being longer than that of any citrus fruit tree. Some of the most well-known variations include:

Chandler
Double
Hom Bai Toey
Red Bantam
Tahitian

According to Purdue University, pummelo trees prefer temperatures in the low 80s and enjoy being at low elevation, close to the sea. Pummelos can even tolerate salty, brackish water that gets pushed in by the tides.

In the United States, pummelo fruits grow ripe from November through February and can be picked in the spring. In more tropical regions, pummelos can produce up to 4 crops per year.

Pummelos can be grown from seed and grown indoors but they are one of the hardest citrus trees to grow indoors and require special lighting or a greenhouse to truly flourish.

Much like the mandarin, pummelos are one of the original citrus fruits that all others are derived from.

That’s All For Now!

There you have it. Nine citrus trees that are evergreens! Citrus trees produce sweet, sour, and sometimes bitter fruit that can be used in many dishes, beverages, and desserts.

Citrus trees are evergreen because they originated from warm, tropical climates where the threat of winter was nonexistent. Dropping leaves is a tree’s way of preserving energy in winter, but citrus trees do not have to do this because they do not experience winter.

Now for a quick recap –

The 9 most common citrus trees that are evergreens include:

Oranges
Limes
Lemons
Mandarins
Calamondins
Grapefruits
Kumquats
Tangerines
Pummelos

Most citrus trees grow in the southern-most states of the U.S., particularly Florida, California, Texas, Alabama, and Louisiana. However, some can be grown in colder regions if grown indoors in pots.

Best of luck on your fruit tree journey!

References

Conesa, A., Nicolas, J. M., Manera, F. J., & Porras, I. (2015). Frost Damage in Lemon Orchards In The Province of Murcia. International Society for Horticultural Science, 1065, 1417-1422.

Lado, J., Gurrea, A., Zacarias, L., & Rodrigo, M. J. (2019, October 15). Influence of the storage temperature on volatile emission, carotenoid content, and chilling injury development in Star Ruby red grapefruit. Food Chemistry, 295, 72-81.

Lai, Y.-T., & Chen, L.-Z. (2008). Effect Of Temperature On Calamondin (Citrus microcarpa) Flowering And Flower Bud Formation. International Society for Horticultural Science, 773, 111-115.

Pollack, S. L., Lin, B.-H., & Allshouse, J. (2003, August). Characteristics of U.S. Orange Consumption. Electronic Outlook Report from the Economic Research Service, 305(01), 1-17.

By Zack DeAngelis
July 12, 2022

9 Reasons Why You Shouldn’t Burn Wood With Nails

Let’s face it, most of us have at one time or another burned pallets, leftover construction materials, or other “suspect” wood that contained nails and other sorts of fasteners. However, you really shouldn’t burn old wood with nails in it for quite a few reasons – even if its outside!

You shouldn’t burn wood with nails as it’s usually from construction material, which may have been treated with chemicals. Campfires can reach around 600°F (but may be hotter) while steel doesn’t melt until around 2600°F, leaving nails scattered around the fire pit ash afterwards.

When burning wood either in a campfire, wood-burning stove, or fireplace, you should only be using local, split, proper firewood, and not anything with nails in it. Let’s go over the 9 reasons as to why you you shouldn’t burn wood with nails in it and what to do instead!

Burning Wood With Nails Can Cause Them To Fly Out

It seems like the natural thing to do. You have some old pallets lying around behind the shed and you need to get rid of them. Maybe there is a pile of wood debris that you’re not exactly sure what to do with, so you burn it just to get it gone.

Wood that contains pockets of sap or is particularly wet can often pop when burned. Some wood varieties throw more sparks than others, and often these are softer woods like pine, which are used as building materials.

This example might sound like that one in a million kind of chance, but I’m sure we’ve all witnessed or experienced something with similar odds. The more the wood sparks, the higher of a chance this has of happening especially if smaller nails were used!

Again, this has a higher chance of happening with smaller nails, but still, don’t take the chance.

You can read our guide on the things to check before using dead trees as firewood here if you’re thinking of using old wood!

The Nails Won’t Fully Melt And Get Left Behind

Most fires are not hot enough to melt nails. According to information from the University of Illinois, campfires can reach around 600°F.

Of course, that can definitely increase depending on certain types of wood, how much oxygen is present, and other sorts of variables.

Steel, on the other hand melts at around 2600℉ – 2750℉, according to information from the University of Washington, so no matter how hot you get your fire, there will be things leftover.

Inside a chimney or your wood-burning stove, you can simply remove these after the coals are cool enough, but how many of us stop to clean up and dispose of our campfire coals?

Burning wood with nails can leave them behind to become an issue for others that use the fire pit afterwards. In addition to nails, there could be staples, screws, or other bonding agents that could be quite sharp.

When burning wood for campfires, most parks, and outdoor recreation areas sell firewood and recommend you buy their own for many different reasons. It’s just a safer bet to burn proper firewood at your campsite.

Not to mention, the threat of transporting insects, but that’s a different reason altogether.

You can also search for firewood around your campsite.

That way you don’t have to worry about burning the actual nails or transporting potentially invasive insects. To help the experience, use this Canvas Log Carrier Bag. It can be difficult to carry all that found firewood back to the site. This carrier bag can help to make fewer trips with more wood each time.

The California Department of Parks and Recreation has made ground fires illegal because they have become an issue for visitors.

Their beaches have been left with soot, coals, nails, and other debris because people have burned lumber and pallets leftover from construction sites. These leftover nails, staples, and other perils get buried in the sand and can cause issues when they resurface!

So, clean up your fire!

Old Pallets Have Nails

Pallet Against White Wall With Nails In It

Pallet wood has a ton of nails. The pallet manufacturing instruction manual must have a section that states to use an entire box of nails for each pallet.

Again, if you do a quick search, you’ll have plenty of people stating they have and do consistently burn pallets, but we will strongly caution against it.

Yes, a lot of pallets are heat-treated; meaning they are heated up slowly to help dry them out and eliminate any potential insects.

The “but” is that pallets are often used for storage in facilities that have many different chemicals and solvents, some have been treated with chemicals that you don’t want around.

Pallets that are used to store chemicals could easily have absorbed them in the wood. These chemicals could be spilled out when being used. When they are burned there’s no telling what could be released into the air.

Again, many people will argue its fine since its outdoors, but it’s better to just get some old proper firewood as you’ll still be near it.

Pallets can also be treated with methyl bromide.

This pesticide has been known to affect the ozone layer, and to be very harmful to humans according to the EPA.

Though this chemical isn’t used as much, you don’t know how old the pallet is, and some pallets aren’t stamped with how they were treated.

Construction Materials Shouldn’t Be Burned

Wood with nails in it often comes from construction sites or home renovation projects. These types of woods shouldn’t be burned because most construction materials are treated with chemicals or have been stained or painted.

Treated wood is usually used for outdoor projects like decks. This wood when it’s new has a greenish tint to it. This treatment helps to prevent rot and insect infestation.

Burning treated lumber can release construction chemicals into the air. Not only that but some of these chemicals can remain in the coals, which then can leach into the soil and groundwater.

When wood is painted, depending on how old it is, it can release lead which can cause health problems from prolonged exposure. Though lead paint was banned in 1978, many houses still contain lead paint.

According to the State of Washington Department of Ecology, it’s important to dispose of treated wood properly. Do not burn it in open fires, wood-burning stoves, or fireplaces.

When burned, chemicals can get released into the air or stay behind in the ash. That contaminated ash can then leach into the environment and contaminate soil and water nearby.

Burning Galvanized And Treated Nails Releases Chemicals

As technology advances, so does the treatment of fasteners. Nails and screws can be treated with chemicals, coatings, or paints to make them longer-lasting, especially in outdoor settings.

When you burn wood with these nails in them, again you could be releasing smoke into the air, or chemicals into the ground. Some nails are treated with cadmium, which when it gets into the ground can harm plants and microorganisms that are beneficial to the soil.

Cadmium is a simple element that can’t be broken down into less troublesome substances in the environment. Once it gets into the environment, it will stay there.

If you’re planning a fire, take a look at our guide on the 9 types of firewood that produce the least amount of smoke!

Burning Wood With Nails Causes Potential Damage To Wood Burning Stoves

Wood-burning stove manufacturers state in their manuals to only burn proper wood and not wood scraps. Nails present in the wood can possibly get into the working, moving components of your stove.

What would happen if a nail fell down into the motor that drives the fan, or it got tossed around in the fan blades? This is another worst-case scenario, but they do sometimes happen.

Again, this is a case of better to be safe than sorry; you wouldn’t want the additional cost of repairing your stove.

When wood with nails is burned in a wood-burning stove, these nails can easily fall down or past the grates. Wood-burning stoves can get significantly hotter than campfire or chimney fires.

These increased temps could cause the nails to fuse to the metal parts of your wood burner, it’s just another thing you have to cleanout.

Remember how we mentioned the popping wood earlier? The wood could pop while in the wood-burning stove and send a nail hurtling toward the glass door. It may not crack the glass but it could cause a small crack that gets worse as it heats and cools.

If you need a good solid firewood for your wood stove, take a look at our piece on the slowest burning firewoods here!

Wood With Nails Is Often Low-Quality Wood

Wood with nails is often lower-quality wood.

When you get solid wood like hickory, oak (white oak firewood is better than red oak, FYI), maple, or other hardwood firewood, you know that you are going to get plenty of quality heat from it. Wood with nails will probably be from pallets, construction projects, or furniture.

This wood is of much lower quality than true hardwood firewood. Construction materials are often made from pine, which when burned doesn’t burn as hot or as long as hardwood firewood.

Pine also creates more creosote, which can build up in the chimney or vent pipes.

Pallets contain thin boards that will burn fast, so you’ll end up having to constantly feed the fire with fresh wood to keep the fire going. Using proper hardwood will give you lasting flames and a good, clean bed of coals that can last through the night.

I know it’s a cliche, but when it comes to firewood, you get what you pay for. Cheap wood is often low-quality, fast-burning, undesirable wood.

That being said, not all firewood is created equal, and you can burn high-quality wood that burns for a long time. You can learn more about different types of firewood and the best firewood to burn here.

If you have ever had trouble starting a fire, we all know blowing on it helps to get a small ember burning, but how many times has this taken forever even in the slightest wind?

Bypass that by using this INNO STAGE Wood Fire Air Bellows. When starting a campfire, sometimes it can be difficult to get a good flame going, but with the help of this bellows, you’ll have a good flame in no time.

You can also check out our list of the hottest burning firewoods if you want to keep your campfire temperature down a bit!

Leftover Nails Pose A Threat To Wildlife

While out camping, it’s an unwritten rule to have a campfire.

You need it for toasting marshmallows, making your coffee in the morning, and having the warming, crackling ambiance of an open flame while enjoying the great outdoors.

Once the fire is out and you’ve packed up, the leftover ash can pose an issue to wildlife or other campers. Leftover nails can poke through paws, feet, or hands. Also, animals in the wild have been known to consume charcoal at times.

Many animals instinctively eat charcoal left over from campfires. When wood with nails has been burned, wild animals could accidentally consume these items which, leads to a variety of issues from there.

How To Properly Dispose Of Wood With Nails

Maybe you were thinking of burning the old wood with nails in it as a way to dispose of it. You no longer have a use for it, it’s taking up space or creating a cantankerous eye-sore, so you want to burn it to finally get rid of that ugly pile of scraps.

Before you do that, we have a few ways you can properly dispose of that pile of wood.

You may have to do a little research, but a lot of municipal waste departments will recycle or dispose of your construction waste. Contact your local waste department to find out. You may be able to drop it off to be recycled or even have curbside come pick it up for you.

Some waste departments will want you to cut the waste up into smaller pieces and simply throw it away in your regular curbside waste bin. Others will want you to drop it off at specialized waste areas.

It also depends on whether the waste is considered commercial or residential waste. Commercial waste is often debris that results from work done by professionals, such as carpenters and contractors.

Residential waste can often be thrown away with normal household waste, while commercial waste has to be treated differently. Again, contact your local waste management services to find out the proper disposal.

DIY’ers Love Repurposed Wood

Do you know anyone who likes to repurpose or upcycle old, seemingly useless “stuff”? I know of a few and they are always on the search for wood scraps and items most people throw away without a second thought. That pile of wood scraps might be a DIY’ers dream come true!

You could donate the old wood to someone else who can make good use of your junk, or you might even be able to sell it for a small price. These crafty people also love old pallets.

They can make everything from furniture to art, to wine racks, all repurposed from old pallets!

Offer up your scraps on a social media platform or online “yard sale” site, and you might not even have to get your hands dirty.

Have them come to you, then they’ll cart it away to make some amazing projects. Better yet, see if there’s something you can use it for and start your own repurpose trend.

That’s A Wrap!

We know the chances of molten hot nails flying out from the fire in your direction can be astronomical, but it can still happen.

Still, there are many other reasons it’s simply better off not burning wood with nails. If you don’t know where your wood was sourced, then you never know what could be lurking inside, unseen.

There are plenty of places and ways to find good, clean-burning firewood so that you don’t have to worry about chemicals, nails, or other hidden troubles In fact, we have several different articles concerning firewood you can check out.

References

Helsen, Lieve, and Eric Van den Bulck. “Review of disposal technologies for chromated copper arsenate (CCA) treated wood waste, with detailed analyses of thermochemical conversion processes.” Environmental pollution 134.2 (2005): 301-314.

Owoyemi, Jacob Mayowa, Habeeb Olawale Zakariya, and Isa Olalekan Elegbede. “Sustainable wood waste management in Nigeria.” Environmental & Socio-economic Studies 4.3 (2016): 1-9.

Struhsaker, T.T., Cooney, D.O. & Siex, K.S. Charcoal Consumption by Zanzibar Red Colobus Monkeys: Its Function and Its Ecological and Demographic Consequences. International Journal of Primatology 18, 61–72 (1997).

By Zack DeAngelis
July 11, 2022

Here’s Why You Shouldn’t Bury A Tree Base (Do This Instead)

Have you ever noticed that in some new landscapes the base of the tree is buried? Into this weird-looking cone shape? Well, if you’ve seen it, erase it from your mind! We’re going to tell you just why you shouldn’t bury a tree base.

Burying the base of a tree stops the vascular flow of water, oxygen and nutrients from getting to the rest of the tree. This makes the more susceptible to ailments, fungus, and pests over time. To properly mulch your tree, evenly spread mulch around the tree’s base up to 4in deep.

In this article, we’ll explain why you shouldn’t bury a tree base and what to do instead. Keep reading to find out more!

So, Is It Okay To Bury The Base Of My Tree?

Child with parents hand holding young tree in soil together for prepare plant on ground,save world concept

No! You never want to pile any soil against the base of the tree!

What do we mean and what does this look like?

Burying the base of the tree isn’t the same as when you plant a new tree. It looks like a pile of mulch stacked around a tree trunk. This can look similar to a cone or a volcano and is often called a mulch volcano. This creates a multitude of problems for your tree and will eventually destroy it.

This can also look like mounds of mulch, or a cone shape stacked against the trunk of the tree. It’s not always done to all age trees, but if you’ve seen it, you’ve probably seen it around fairly young, and newer planted trees.

The weirdest part is that you’ll even see some landscapers doing this, which might make you think it’s okay and the thing to do, but we promise it is never okay!

Now, we aren’t saying to NOT mulch your tree but rather, we’re saying not to bury the base of the stump. Mulch is super great to have around your tree but is primarily beneficial for the roots.

Why Are Mulch Volcanoes Around Trees Bad?

This is a weird, yet popular phenomenon commonly referred to as volcano mulching. Volcano mulching is not good for your tree as it will create a number of issues down the road.

Mulching is great for your tree, but piling it up into a massive mulch pile or volcano is not the way to go. If you create a “mulch volcano”, you are limiting the amount of oxygen that can happen between the roots and the soil.

Lack Of Nutrients Reach The Roots

Additionally, this mulch pile tells the roots to grow into the mulch volcano rather than into the soil creating a girdling effect. Roots begin to grow in a circle around the tree trunk eventually restricting the vascular flow of water and nutrients.

While you’re working outside in your yard, you’ll probably want to maintain your plants and trees. The Fiskars 394801-1003 PowerGear2 Bypass Lopper is an excellent choice.

These loppers can cut branches up to two inches thick, and cut them like butter. Because of their steel blades, they make cutting a breeze, smooth, and with the least resistance possible.

Causes Root Dehydration

Piling mulch against the tree trunk also causes root dehydration. When mulch compacts over time oxygen is unable to reach the tree’s roots.

So not only can the roots begin to girdle, but as the mulch degrades and roots are exposed, they become dehydrated from being at the surface where the mulch was.

Have you ever spread mulch on a hot day, when the mulch has been sitting in the sun? When you pile mulch against the trunk of the tree you’re trapping all of the heat and moisture against the trunk itself, creating a perfect environment for bacteria and pests to thrive.

If you are looking to do some outdoor projects this year, the Fiskars 384490-1002 Garden Scratch Tool Set is a great choice! This toolset comes with a trowel, cultivator, and transplanter that are made of aluminum heads, which resist rust. You’ve got everything you need in just one set!

Makes The Tree Vulnerable To Pests And Insect Damage

How might this cause a perfect environment for pests even? Because of the slow but intense effects of volcano mulching, the tree becomes stressed and isn’t as strong to protect against insects who attack trees when they are weak.

The effects of burying the base of a tree with a mulch volcano are not immediate. They are long-term effects that happen over time. So even if you have done it, or seen it, and don’t see any issues with your trees, it’s because the damage is taking place slowly!

If your tree is already suffering, you can take a look at our guide on the best oak tree fertilizers, maple tree fertilizers, or spruce tree fertilizers depending on what kind of tree is in your yard

Fertilizers are essential to getting a tree back to its former glory once issues start taking place. It’s also a great idea to consult a local arborist if your tree already has pest damage!

What Can I Do Instead Of Burying a Tree Base?

Mulching around the base of the tree is a great way to keep moisture in, help regulate soil temperature, and improve the soil content.

If you created a mulch volcano unknowingly, don’t worry, you can fix it!

Rake Away Excess Mulch

If you’ve already put too much mulch around your tree, you should rake away the excess mulch to create a circle around the tree.

You only want the mulch to be 2-4 inches deep. Also make sure the mulch doesn’t come close to the base of the tree, roughly 4-6 inches away from the trunk.

It’s fine to not have any mulch against the trunk. And, it’s better for the tree plus allows for the exchange of oxygen, water, and nutrients.

When raking out the mulch you’ll need a good rake, the Fiskars 397940-1001 PRO Rake is the perfect option. This rake has a grading edge on the opposite side for smoothing out your mulch or soil. In addition to that, it has a lifetime warranty!

Make sure to rake the mulch out to the drip line of the tree, which is where the canopy extends to. The shape will probably take on a circle, which is aesthetically pleasing and the general shape the drip line creates. And that’s it!

Create A “Mulch Circle” Around Your Tree

When you do create a mulch circle around your tree, you want to think of making it look like a donut shape.

This means you’ll want to keep the mulch away from the trunk (the hole in the donut) and pull it out evenly to the drip line (the main part of the donut). Creating a donut out of mulch can help you remember to keep that mulch away from the trunk! No matter how tempting!

Use this technique for all plants, trees, and shrubs alike!

If you haven’t mulched around your plants or tree yet, you can use the mulch donut shape to correctly mulch around your tree instead of burying your tree base.

But again, don’t put mulch against the base of the tree, and make sure it’s only a few inches deep, preferably, 2-4 inches, and no deeper!

Why You Should Always Mulch Your Tree

Beautiful closeup top view of round mulched birch tree with wood chips and shredded leaves at university campus, Dublin, Ireland. Soft and selective focus

Now that we’ve gone over the proper way to mulch your tree instead of burying it, we’re going to talk about the benefits of mulching your tree and plants.

Increases Soil Composition

First off, mulching around young trees is one of the best things you can do for your tree! It helps increase the tree’s growth rate, decreases competition from surrounding plants, and helps to improve the moisture content in the soil.

But, the benefits don’t stop there!

Reduces Watering Frequency

Mulching your tree can help reduce the frequency of watering your tree, saving you time and money.

Mulching also increases the amount of organic matter and adds an extra layer to the soil, which helps to reduce erosion and protect the integrity of the soil.

Mulch Can Double The Growth Rate Of Your Tree

According to information from Kansas State University, the growth rate of your tree can double just by adding mulch. Of course, this is done by “properly” mulching your trees consistently.

If you follow our tips above, you’ll be in good shape because you’ll be putting your tree in a great spot to grow moving forward!

Prevents The Growth Of Weeds

Mulch also prevents weeds from germinating and reduces the growth of weeds.

So, no more need for going out and hand picking all those weeds under your tree! Well, you’ll probably still have to pick some out.

Did you think that the benefits of mulch stopped there? Well, think again, they just keep going!

Reduces Salts And Pesticides That Can Reach The Trees Roots

Mulching also can reduce the number of salts and pesticide contamination in water, and it is known for binding to heavy metals.

According to the University of California Cooperative Extension, mulch helps dilute the number of salts that are deposited in the soil because it traps evaporation. Additionally, organic mulch can degrade pesticides and other types of contaminants like heavy metals.

Organic mulch is made up of things that decompose naturally and is made of plant material. This could be straw, old hay, pine needles, cover crops, wood shavings, compost, leaves, wood chips, and bark chips, to name a few.

This contrasts with inorganic mulch, which doesn’t break down naturally, like plastic, rubber chips, or anything of the sort.

Best Simple Mulch To Use For Your Tree

Before mulching, you’ll want to choose the right mulch for your yard and garden.

If you’re not sure where to start with organic mulch, pine straw mulch is a good option. The USA Pine Straw – Premium Pine Needle Mulch covers up to 160 square feet at a 2-3 inch depth. It helps suppress weeds and is lightweight.

Pine straw mulch is significantly lighter than wood mulch, which might be the right option if you’re looking for something that’s not as heavy as regular mulch.

Pine straw mulch is also less expensive than regular mulch, and it is a good insulator. Like most mulches, pine needle mulch keeps moisture within the soil and is best at preventing weeds. Additionally, pine straw doesn’t need to be replaced as often as other mulches.

That’s A Wrap

So, do you still think you want to create a mulch volcano? After reading this, hopefully, you’re cured of piling mulch up against the tree trunk! Let’s recap why you shouldn’t bury a tree base.

When you bury a tree base, you are setting up the tree for lots of issues. These issues aren’t immediate, happen over time, and can surely destroy your tree to the point of no return.

Burying the base of a tree and creating a mulch pile or volcano against the trunk restricts vascular flow to the rest of the tree. It causes root girdling around the trunk of the tree preventing water and nutrients from getting to the rest of the tree.

Burying the trees base also causes root dehydration and prevents oxygen from flowing to the roots. Not only this but when you create that mulch volcano against your tree trunk you’re creating the ideal environment for pest infestations and rot!

But in case you have trees in your yard that have mulch volcanoes, no need to worry, you can fix it! By raking the mulch away from the trunk of the tree and into a donut shape towards the outer edge of the canopy, you’ll have corrected your mulch volcano.

Thanks for sticking around and we hope you learned why you shouldn’t bury a tree base! Happy mulching!

References

Gilman, Edward F., and Jason Grabosky. “Mulch and planting depth affect live oak (Quercus virginiana Mill.) establishment.” Journal of Arboriculture 30, no. 5 (2004): 311-317.

Kamara, A. Y., Akobundu, I. O., Sanginga, N., & Jutzi, S. C. (2000). Effect of mulch from selected multipurpose trees (MPTs) on growth, nitrogen nutrition, and yield of maize (Zea mays L.). Journal of Agronomy and Crop Science, 184(2), 73-80.

Koski, Ronda, and William R. Jacobi. “Tree pathogen survival in chipped wood mulch.” Journal of Arboriculture (2004): 165-171.

Mulumba, L. N., & Lal, R. (2008). Mulching effects on selected soil physical properties. Soil and Tillage Research, 98(1), 106-111.

Prosdocimi, Massimo, Paolo Tarolli, and Artemi Cerdà. “Mulching practices for reducing soil water erosion: A review.” Earth-Science Reviews 161 (2016): 191-203.

By Zack DeAngelis
July 11, 2022

10 Easy Flowers You Can Grow In Your Van (Gardening Guide)

Van life isn’t for everyone, but for those who seek adventure, live in the moment, and don’t mind skipping shower day every once in a while, it’s the perfect lifestyle. There’s plenty of beauty to be seen in nature, but you can also bring beauty to the inside of your van by growing potted flowers.

Some of the easiest, hassle-free flowers you can grow in your van include forget-me-nots, pansies, begonias, sweet Alyssum, marigolds, impatiens, Gerber daisies, and lobelia. These flowers are extremely durable and have minimal maintenance requirements.

Having a potted plant inside your van will breathe life into your tiny home and provide an oasis on those rainy days when you’re stuck in the van. Read on to discover the ten easiest flowers you can grow in your van.

Why Grow Flowers In Your Van?

As much as social media would like us to believe it, van life is not a luxurious lifestyle. You live in a very small space packed with only the necessities.

While flowers may seem like a luxury, they have a lot of surprising benefits.

According to an article in the Journal of ChemTech Research, one potted plant per 100 square feet of indoor space is sufficient to clean pollutants from the air.

And since the average space inside a van is far less than 100 square feet, your single plant will have no problem keeping the air clean inside your van.

In addition to the biological benefits of cleaning the air, ornamental plants provide psychological benefits, too. An article in the Journal of Sustainability found that indoor plants boost mood.

Specifically, indoor plants cause an increase in positive emotions and a reduction in negative emotions. Indoor plants can also cause a change in pain perception, making you feel less pain than you do (which is bound to help after a long hike!).

So, while potted plants may seem like a luxury you don’t need, they’re useful to have around when you live in a small space.

The best part? The plants on this list are EASY to take care of, so you can spend time adventuring instead of worrying about your plants.

How To Grow Flowers In Your Van

Homegrown and aromatic herbs in old clay pots. Set of culinary herbs. Green growing sage, oregano, thyme, basil, mint and oregano.

You can grow flowers in a stationary home, so why not a van?! While growing potted flowers is a little easier than growing edible plants in a van, it still comes with some tricky challenges.

Before you choose which potted plant to grow in your van, you’ll want to address some obvious obstacles:

Space
Type of pot
Sunlight
Temperature

Let’s address the elephant in the room first: Space!

Choose The Right Location For Your Van life Flowers

There are a lot of differences between living in a van and living in a home. You can’t have breakable things, you have to be able to secure everything down for when you are driving, and you have limited space.

With all that in mind, you’ll want to pick the right spot in your van so that your plant is secure yet movable, out of the way, gets enough sun, and won’t topple over when driving.

Here are some creative locations where you can place and store your potted flowers:

Hang Your Flowers From Your Storage Cabinets: Most van setups will have some type of cabinets near the headspace that offers storage. Consider hanging your flowers from the bottom of the cabinets by a hook.

Use Magnets To Keep Your Potted Flowers In Place: Magnets are a savior in the van. They can hold kitchen utensils, keep drawers closed while driving, and keep your potted flowers in place!

Lovimag’s Neodymium Disk Countersunk Hole Magnets can hold up to 26 pounds of weight. Affix one magnet to your potted flower and the other wherever you want to place your flower.

You can screw the magnet into your countertop and keep your flower on your countertop while driving or even affix it to a wall to save space.

Suction Cups Will Keep Your Flowers Close To A Window: Conbola’s Heavy-Duty Suction Cups With Hooks will hold up to 22 pounds. You can affix the suction cups to the window and hang your potted flowers there. This has the added benefit of providing your flowers with sunlight.

Wherever you decide to place your potted flowers, be sure they can be removed from that location. You’ll want to place your flowers outside when your van is stationary to provide adequate sunlight and air circulation.

You also want to be able to water your potted flowers outdoors so that you do not fill up your gray tank unnecessarily.

If you’d like to learn more, take a look at our piece on why you actually don’t need to water plants everyday!

One thing you don’t want to do is glue or nail your flower pot in a permanent location.

Choose A Non-Rigid Pot For Your Van life Flowers

Basil plant in a pot on windowsill. Kitchen cooking herbs.

Ceramic pots are pretty, making a nice accent piece for your porch or windowsill. But the thing about ceramic is that it’s breakable.

And breakable things have to go when you live in a moving vehicle.

So, no ceramic, clay, or glass pots; what about hard plastic? Hard plastic is better than ceramic, clay, or glass, but it’s still a rigid container.

You want something that can mold too small or tight places for van life. You want a container that’s just as flexible as your lifestyle. For this reason, fabric pots are the way to go.

AC Infinity’s Heavy Duty Fabric Pots are an excellent choice. These come in various sizes, from 1-gallon to 25-gallons and are made of durable fabric that can be reused. Some of the sizes can even support fruit growth in your van!

The nice thing about fabric pots is that they can be folded down when not used, which is a plus when space is limited.

Give Your Flowers Enough Sunlight

Sunlight is something you’ll never be in shortage of when you live the van lifestyle. However, your indoor flowers may need some additional help with sunlight.

The plants on our list range from full-sun flowers to partial-shade flowers. Placing your flowers outdoors when you park your van can help give them the extra boost of sunlight they need to produce more flowers.

When you can’t put your flowers outside, consider parking your van so that the window faces either south or west so that it captures the most sunlight.

If you’re worried your plants aren’t getting enough sunlight, consider supplementing with grow lights. GHodec’s Grow Light for Indoor Plants includes blue, white, and red lighting for plants.

These colors naturally mimic the sun’s wavelengths to give your plant’s the closest thing to natural sunlight. The lights also come with a clamp so you can connect them anywhere in your van, and you know they won’t fall over, even while in motion.

The best part about these grow lights is that they are powered via a 5-volt/2.4amp USB cord, the same amount of power you would use to charge your phone.

Keep The Temperature Regulated Inside Your Van

Weekend warriors might be able to get away without insulating their vans. After all, it’s just a couple of days of living in your van.

However, full-time van-lifers know the importance of insulation. It helps to keep hot air out and cool air so that the inside of your van feels comfortable on hot days. And during those colder nights, insulation will keep your van nice and toasty.

Keeping the temperature regulated inside your van is also important for your potted flowers. Some flowers can withstand fluctuating temperatures, but others are very sensitive, warm-weather-only plants that won’t do well in a van that drops 20 degrees at night.

You can use a light sheet or clothing to protect your plants if you know the temperature will drop significantly. But otherwise, you should only grow flowers in your van if you can somewhat regulate the temperature.

12 Easy Flowers To Grow In Your Van

Now onto the good stuff! What flowers are easy to grow and can withstand the mobile lifestyle? Surprisingly, there are a lot.

Very quick, you can view our overall list of the best plants to grow in your van if you’re looking for more non-flower types!

Grow Forget-Me-Nots In Vans

Macro shot of field forget me nots (myosotis arvensis) in bloom.

Forget-me-nots are known for being short flowers, which works to our advantage since we want flowers that fit in a van.

These flowers should be grown from seed and are considered low maintenance. According to North Carolina State University, forget-me-nots need less than 12 inches of space to grow.

There are many varieties of forget-me-nots, each with different characteristics and colors. Most forget-me-nots are blue with a white or yellow iris.

It’s recommended to plant seeds a few months before the last frost. Even if you are van-living in strictly warm temperatures, the thing that tells a plant whether to sprout or not has to do with the length of the days, not necessarily the temperature.

Light: Forget-me-nots appreciate full sun to partial shade. Around 3-6 hours of sun should be sufficient.

Soil: Use organically rich soil for forget-me-nots. Burpee’s Premium Organic Potting Natural Soil Mix is a good choice and contains organically-rich materials.

Water: Keep the soil moist without leaving puddles on the soil.

Bloom: Forget-me-nots bloom for a short period in April and May and sometimes re-blooms mid-summer.

Grow Begonias In Your Van

Most flowers on this list will have a ton of different varieties to choose from. Begonias are no different.

Wax, rex, and rhizomatous begonias are going to be the best species of begonia for van life. They stay relatively small and are the easiest to care for. You can grow them from seed or find a nice potted begonia at a local garden center.

Some begonia species are very cold-sensitive, so make sure you keep the space inside your van at a comfortable temperature.

Light: Partial shade. Begonias need a little direct sunlight for their flowers to bloom, but too much sun will scorch the leaves.

Soil: Begonias do well with potting soil that contains peat moss. Baby Violet’s All-Purpose Indoor Houseplant Potting Soil Mix Peat Moss & Perlite is a great choice.

Water: Begonias should be watered frequently, but the plants are overwatered if the buds begin to drop.

Bloom: Most begonia species will bloom from summer until late fall.

Sweet Alyssum Can Grow Well In Vans

Sweet Alyssum produces beautiful white, pink, or purple flowers and has the added benefit of being very fragrant, providing your van with clean air AND nice smells.

According to the University of Florida, most normal varieties of Sweet Alyssum will bloom in spring and be done by summer. Still, some new varieties like Snow Princess, Frosty Knight, and Dark Knight will last from spring through fall.

You can always check with a local nursery or garden center to see which varieties will bloom the longest. Mostly, Alyssum grown from cuttings (instead of seed) will last the longest.

Light: Sweet Alyssum does well in full sun to partial shade.

Soil: Sweet Alyssum is not too picky with the soil type. A simple all-purpose potting soil will do just fine.

Water: Keep your Sweet Alyssum well-watered, but ensure the soil is not soggy.

Bloom: New varieties will bloom from Spring to Fall. Older varieties bloom in the spring and are typically done by summer due to heat.

You Can Grow Daisies In Vans

Daisies are one of the most popular flowers to purchase as cut flowers, but you can also plant them in containers.

Gerber daisies are a hybrid between two popular species of daisies and come in various colors, including orange, purple, white, and pink, among others.

You can snag a potted daisy plant from a garden center or plant Gerber daisies from seed in your fabric pots. Daisies will grow to about a foot tall and wide.

According to the University of Florida, Gerber daisies may become deficient in iron and manganese. Use a fertilizer like Espoma Organic Iron-tone 3-0-3 Organic Fertilizer about once a month according to the package label and directions.

Light: Provide morning sun and afternoon shade.

Soil: Gerber daisies prefer very well-drained soil. Look for a potting mix on the sandy side, and add some organic material or compost for best results.

Water: Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings.

Bloom: Gerber daisies will bloom Spring through Fall.

Try Growing Marigolds In Your Van

Marigolds are low-maintenance container plants that grow quickly and bloom yellow-orange flowers that will bring color into your van.

Some marigolds can grow up to three feet tall, but smaller varieties like French and Signet Marigolds reach 6-12 inches, which is the perfect size for a van-life container plant!

Marigolds are one of the most forgiving potted flowers and can handle hot temperatures, direct sun, and almost any type of soil.

Light: Marigolds love sun. Give them at least 6 hours per day. You can read more about why marigolds need full sun here.

Soil: Use a lightweight potting mix and add a handful of perlite for best results and better drainage. According to the University of Minnesota, marigolds do not require fertilizer.

Water: Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings. When watering, try to water down to about 2 inches. Marigolds are susceptible to root rot, so do not allow the soil to remain soggy.

Bloom: Marigolds typically bloom from summer until late fall/early winter, after a few hard frosts.

Dwarf Varietie Petunias Can Grow In Vans

Petunias are colorful, tubular-flowered plants that are quite prolific when allowed to spread in a flower bed.

The best species of petunia to grow in a van will be the dwarf varieties. These include species like Dwarf Mexican Petunias and Katie Dwarf Petunias. These grow between 6 and 12 inches in height and are resistant to pests, which is a plus in the van!

Many petunia varieties are drought tolerant, making them even easier to maintain if you accidentally forget to water them. It’s recommended to plant three petunia plants per 12 inches of pot space.

Light: Give your petunias plenty of sun, at least 6 hours per day.

Soil: Petunias grow best in well-draining soil high in organic matter. Petunias are also heavy feeders. According to Texas A&M University, a high-phosphorous fertilizer does wonders for petunia plants.

Element Nutrient’s Flower Fuel includes a mixture of 1-34-32, meaning the nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium content, respectively. This is a good choice to feed your petunia plants.

Water: Petunias are more drought tolerant than other potted plants. You can allow the top 2 inches of the soil to dry out completely before watering again.

Bloom: Petunias will bloom from Spring to Fall if given the right conditions.

Easy-To-Grow Impatiens For Your Van

Impatiens are commonly seen in hanging baskets, making them ideal if you plan to hang your plants beneath your cabinet space.

These colorful flowers can grow up to 18 inches tall, so they take up more space than some other flowers on our list. You can grow impatiens from seed or buy flowers already established in a pot from a local garden center.

According to Iowa State University, the more shade you give your impatiens, the taller the plants will be. So, consider giving your impatiens more direct sun to keep them small and van-sized.

Light: Impatiens prefer partial shade, about 2 to 4 hours of filtered sun per day. The more light you give them, the smaller the plants will be, but the more flowers will bloom.

Soil: Use a run-of-the-mill potting soil that drains well. You can add perlite to improve drainage.

Water: Water your impatiens when the soil surface is dry to the touch.

Bloom: Impatiens will bloom in the spring or beginning of summer and last until the first frost.

Lobelia Can Grow Inside Your Van

Unlike many other flowers on our list, lobelia prefers cooler weather. They will not do well in super hot climates, so just be mindful of placing your lobelia outdoors if you stop in a hot desert for the day.

Lobelias varieties can be mounding or trailing. If you plan to hang your lobelia plant, consider getting a trailing variety. Stationary pots will do best with a mounding variety. Lobelias should be planted from seed.

Lobelias come in various colors, including blue, purple, and white. Lobelias do well partnered with other plants in the same container. Some of their preferred partners include:

Sweet Alyssum
Petunias
Impatiens
Pansies

All of which are on this list and are also low-maintenance.

Light: You can grow lobelia in full sun when temperatures are cooler. Place them in partial shade when summer temperatures are high.

Soil: Regular, well-draining potting soil works great for lobelia.

Water: Lobelias do not like drying out. Keep the soil moist at all times but do not let the soil become soggy.

Bloom: Depending on the variety, lobelias can be one of the first bloomers in the spring and will bloom again in the fall if conditions are right.

Pansies Are Easy To Grow In A Van

Pansies are another cool-weather plant well-known for having a face on its flowers. They come in a wide range of colors that can fit any color scheme in your van.

It is best to buy pansies as established plants as they can be difficult to plant from seed. These low-maintenance plants will grow to around 9 inches tall and wide.

Light: Pansies are cool-weather plants. They will only do good in the direct sun if the temperatures are cool. It is best to place them in partial shade in the afternoon to avoid overheating them.

Soil: Use a well-draining potting mix. Preferably sandy or sandy loam. Utah State University recommends a 5-10-5 fertilizer like Espoma’s Garden Food Fertilizer 5-10-5 applied to the potting soil before transplanting your pansies into your fabric pots.

Water: Give your pansies about 1 inch of water per week.

Bloom: Pansies typically bloom in the spring because of the cooler temperatures. They may also bloom in the fall as temperatures cool down from summer. In mild climates, they will bloom in the winter as well.

Grow Low-Maintenance Geraniums In Your Van

Geraniums are easy to grow with brilliant pink, purple, white, and red flowers, depending on the variety.

There are three main types of geraniums: Ivy-leafed, Martha Washington, and Common. The best species for van life are the common geranium or the Martha Washington geranium. Ivy-leafed is a trailing geranium that can take up more space than you’d like in your van.

Geraniums don’t appreciate being left out in the cold as they are not cold-hardy like lobelia or pansies. However, they are great for container life as they prefer to be somewhat root-bound.

Light: Give your geraniums at least 6 hours of sun per day, but be aware that geraniums may stop flowering in hot weather. During the hottest time of the day, move your geraniums into some shade.

Soil: Any regular potting mix will do as long as it has good drainage. You can add perlite to the mixture for extra drainage.

Water: Allow the soil to dry between waterings. Geraniums are drought-tolerant to an extent.

Bloom: Geraniums will bloom from spring to fall. However, they may stop blooming if temperatures get too hot.

Final Thoughts On Growing Flowers In Your Van

That’s all we have for now on the ten easiest flowers you can grow in your van. Many of the flowers on this list are forgiving, but they still need a little TLC.

Just as a quick recap…

Ten easy flowers you can grow in your van include:

Forget-me-nots
Begonias
Sweet Alyssum
Gerber Daisies
Marigolds
Petunias
Impatiens
Lobelia
Pansies
Geraniums

You’ll want to ensure you pick the right location for your flowers and provide them with enough sunlight and water. Also, ensure the temperature doesn’t fluctuate too much in your van.

If you’re looking for the easiest flowers to plant, go with marigolds, petunias, or geraniums. These are more forgiving than others and are the lowest maintenance.

If you’re planning on being in cool weather for a lot of your trip, try growing impatiens, lobelia, or pansies, as these plants prefer cool weather and can even survive a few touches of frost.

Having flowers in your van will not only breathe life into your van’s interior but also provide physical and psychological benefits that are just too good to pass up!

References

Abd ElAziz, N. G., Mahgoub, M. H., Mazhar, A. M.M., Farahat, M. M., & Abouziena, H. F. (2015). Potentiality of Ornamental Plants and Woody Trees as Phytoremidators of Pollutants in the Air: A Review. International Journal of Chem Tech Research, 8(6), 468-482.

Kaplan, R. (2001). The Nature of the View from Home: Psychological Benefits. Environment and Behavior, 33(4), 507-542. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/00139160121973115

Ke-Tsung, H., & Li-Wen, R. (2019, August 20). Effects of Indoor Plants on Self-Reported Perceptions: A Systemic Review. Sustainability, 11(16), 4506. https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/11/16/4506#cite

Lin, M.-W., Chen, L.-Y., & Chuah, Y.-K. (2017, October). Investigation of A Potted Plant (Hedera helix) with Photo-Regulation to Remove Volatile Formaldehyde for Improving Indoor Air Quality. Aerosol and Air Quality Research, 17(10). https://aaqr.org/articles/aaqr-17-04-oa-0145

By Zack DeAngelis
July 5, 2022

3 Reasons Why Marigolds Need Full Sun And Not Shade

Do you have your own vegetable garden? If so, there is a good chance you have marigolds planted somewhere. Traditionally, marigolds help draw insects and animals away from your juicy vegetables. Whether you’re a new or experienced gardener, it’s good to know how much sun these flowers need.

Marigolds need at least six hours of sunlight each day. They can grow in partial shade but in order to grow multiple flowers and bloom throughout fall, marigolds need full sun. Planting them in full sun will promote lush and dense plants while increasing their production of blooms.

We’ll get into depth about why marigolds need full sun and shade and how you can grow strong, full marigolds. Keep reading to keep your marigolds big and blooming!

Reasons Marigolds Need Full Sun

Marigolds are indigenous to Central and South America where they were discovered during the 1500s. From there, marigolds were brought to Africa and Europe resulting in species like the African and French marigolds.

Because of their indigenous climate, they can tolerate drought and love sun-filled days. Although some species can tolerate part shade, it’s unlikely that you’ll achieve the full, dense look that you’re going for with your marigolds unless they have more access to the sun.

So before you begin planting this summer, lay out your marigold plants in areas that you know have full sun and you’ll have marigold dreams!

Marigolds Need Full Sun To Photosynthesize All Day

Marigolds are dense with foliage. Have you ever seen the leaves on marigolds? They are a work of art on their own, and they even look like some herbs! Because they have such dense, dark green foliage, they are constantly photosynthesizing throughout the day. This helps the marigolds continuously grow multiple flowers at once.

Certain types of marigolds even have double flowers. Yes, you heard that right! African marigolds, French marigolds, and pot marigolds all can bear double flowers.

So, they need full sun to put the energy into and grow these dense double flower heads. And since marigolds continue to flower throughout summer and fall, they need full sun to continue to photosynthesize throughout these seasons.

Marigolds can continue flowering into late fall. But to do this, they have to be deadheaded, which is simply removing flower heads when they’re done blooming. So, you can see why they need full sun, to keep growing those flower heads all year long!

Full sun allows marigolds to grow strong and full, without it, they probably won’t flower and become leggy!

If you’ve ever smelled marigolds, you know just how fragrant they are. Aside from growing dense foliage and flowers, the scent of marigolds is also dependent on the amount of sun they get, similar to lavender and other fragrant flowers.

According to the United States Department of Agriculture, fragrant floral scents are a mix of VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and essential oils that are emitted into the atmosphere to attract pollinators.

These essential oils evaporate from the petals in warm weather releasing a floral scent. And what does the sun have to do with this? Evaporation! The more sun there is, the more evaporation there is!

Not all flowers that grow in the sun produce a scent, like sunflowers, dahlias, or hibiscus. Even flowers that are shade tolerant can be fragrant, but they typically are exposed to, and require a little sunlight, thus, releasing some floral scent.

Whether you decide to plant only marigolds or want to venture into other full sunflowers, the Burpee Wildflower Mix Monarch Sanctuary 50,000 Seeds is an ideal choice!

This seed mixture comes with over a dozen types of flowers including marigolds, butterfly weeds, zinnias, and Mexican sunflowers, to name a few. It comes with enough non-GMO seeds to cover 1,000 square feet.

And, the most important part is that it’s a wildflower assortment to attract pollinators and help monarch butterfly populations by providing them with this incredible batch of flowers.

Marigolds Need Full Sun To Prevent Wilting And Pests

Common Marigold Issues

Marigolds are prone to things like leaf spots, wilt, blight, root rot, and aster yellows, without proper sun and drainage. They are also susceptible to pests like the imported long-horned weevil, the potato leafhopper, and plant bugs.

Leaf spots are caused by a fungal affliction and can vary depending upon the specific pathogen. This can be avoided, however, by making sure your plant is strong and healthy. You can do this by proper planting location, and fertilizing.
Next up, we have wilt. This is another fungal infection that can come from Verticillium or Fusarium oxysporum. Wilt causes wilting of lower leaves and leads to the death of the marigold. Sometimes plants won’t show any signs until it’s too late. This can also be avoided by making sure you have strong and healthy plants, and not damaging the roots.
Botrytis blight is pretty gross-looking because it looks like mold. Marigold flowers begin turning brown and are covered with fuzzy, gray blobs. This fungus occurs whenever there’s lots of humidity, moisture, wetness, and lack of sun.
Root rot is one that we’ve touched on before, and it usually affects indoor plants. But don’t let that fool you! Root rot can occur just as easily outside as it can inside, especially due to overwatering!
Lastly, we have aster yellows. This pathogen is caused by phytoplasmas, which are an intracellular parasite that affects the phloem of plants. This is transmitted through leafhoppers, a common pest of many plants. This disease results in small, oddly shaped, stunted plants.

Common Marigold Pests

The imported long-horned weevil lays its eggs in the soil and feeds on the roots of mairgold plants as larvae. When they become adults, they start feeding on the edges of leaves or flowers.

The potato leafhopper is a sap-sucking insect that feeds on marigold foliage causing it to whiten and shrivel up. Also, as we mentioned, this pesky insect can transmit aster yellows.

Plant bugs. It sounds like a made-up name, but these bugs lead their eggs in the stems of marigold plants. When they hatch, they suck the sap from leaves eventually turning into circular holes.

Most of these issues can be avoided by maximizing plant vigor and keeping your marigold healthy.

With that, one of the easiest ways to keep your plant healthy is to plant it in the proper location, in this case, in full sunlight, to help your marigolds grow big and strong!

Since we’re talking about pests, if you’ve ever worked outside during the summertime, you probably know just how bad the bugs can be. Gnats and mosquitoes especially! And if you don’t know, well let’s just say, this is your hint!

With a bug repellent like Bug Soother Spray – Natural Insect, Gnat and Mosquito Repellent & Deterrent, you can be protected without all of the chemicals in other bug sprays with a nice and pleasant scent!

Marigolds Need Full Sunlight To Control Soil Moisture

Marigolds can tolerate a variety of soil types and humidity levels, especially depending on their type. However, most marigolds grow best in well-draining, acidic soil, and won’t do well if left in saturated, water-logged soil.

Standing water in the soil can be a direct result of lack of sunlight and poorly-draining soil. Marigolds can tolerate a little bit of shade, especially if they are newly transplanted. But if they’re going to stay in a partially shady location, they need well-draining soil.

As we mentioned, some of the pathogens above are a direct result of humid and overly wet conditions that don’t have a chance to dry out. If over-watered, or planted improperly, you are setting your marigolds up for failure instead of success.

Can Marigolds Grow In Shade?

Marigolds can be grown in some partial shade, however, they will have the most success in full sun. Now, when we say partial shade, we mean anywhere from 3-6 hours of direct sun. Some partial shade can help lessen the heat in really hot and sunny places.

Even though some marigold varieties can thrive in partial shade – if you want to grow strong, vigorous plants, your best bet is to plant them in an area that will get at least three hours of direct sun, preferably six hours!

If you are looking to add more shade to your yard, you can learn more about the fastest growing shade trees for small yards.

Next, we’ll cover some common types of marigolds.

Most Common Types Of Marigolds

So, there are two main species of marigolds, the African marigold, and the French marigold. African marigolds are tall, large plants, with fairly big blooms.

French marigolds, on the other hand, are smaller, more compact, and probably the type you see most often.

There are also hybrid marigolds, which are a cross between African and French marigolds, which range in size and shape.

African Marigolds, Tagetes erecta

African marigolds are usually referred to as American marigolds. They have double flowers and grow up to three feet tall! This species of marigolds also can have five-inch blooms.

French Marigolds, Tagetes patula

French marigolds are probably the most common. They have single flowers and are more compact.

These are the marigolds you have probably seen at hardware and garden stores that come in yellow, dark red, orange, and a combination of all these colors.

These are small marigolds that range in sizes from six inches up to 18 inches. This type is more tolerant of moist conditions.

A few varieties of the French marigold include ‘Bonanza’, ‘Little Hero’, ‘Bounty’, ‘Hero Orange’, and ‘Queen Sophia’.

Hybrid Marigolds

Hybrid marigolds are French and African marigolds that have been crossbred. They range in a variety of sizes, colors, and shapes such as signet marigolds and Spanish tarragon!

That’s A Wrap!

Marigolds are the perfect addition to your garden, vegetable bed, or even to grow in pots. They will give off that incredible smell and add a pop of color wherever you decide to plant them.

Marigolds come in all shapes, sizes, and colors, and so many varieties it’s hard to pick a favorite.

Remember, wherever you decide to plant them, make sure they’ve got full sun.

Let’s recap a few things we discussed!

Marigolds need at least 6 hours of sunlight each day to thrive and grow luscious, sweet-smelling blooms.

Marigolds can grow in partial shade but to grow multiple flowers, and bloom throughout the seasons, they need full sun. Planting marigolds in full sun will promote strong, dense plants, and make them less susceptible to pathogens and pests.

You can choose from African marigolds, French marigolds, or a hybrid variety, all of which have the same light requirements: Sun!

Thanks for sticking around and learning why marigolds do not grow in the shade and why they need full sun. We hope this helped you in your marigold adventures, until next time!

References

Atiyeh, R. M., N. Q. Arancon, C. A. Edwards, and J. D. Metzger. “The influence of earthworm-processed pig manure on the growth and productivity of marigolds.” Bioresource technology 81, no. 2 (2002): 103-108.

Broschat, Timothy K., and Kimberly K. Moore. “Phytotoxicity of several iron fertilizers and their effects on Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu, and P content of African marigolds and zonal geraniums.” HortScience 39, no. 3 (2004): 595-598.

Conboy, N. J., McDaniel, T., Ormerod, A., George, D., Gatehouse, A. M., Wharton, E., … & Tosh, C. R. (2019). Companion planting with French marigolds protects tomato plants from glasshouse whiteflies through the emission of airborne limonene. PloS one, 14(3), e0213071.

Hongpakdee, P., & Ruamrungsri, S. (2015). Water use efficiency, nutrient leaching, and growth in potted marigolds affected by coconut coir dust amended in substrate media. Horticulture, Environment, and Biotechnology, 56(1), 27-35.

Sturz, A. V., and J. Kimpinski. “Endoroot bacteria derived from marigolds (Tagetes spp.) can decrease soil population densities of root-lesion nematodes in the potato root zone.” Plant and Soil 262, no. 1 (2004): 241-249.

By Zack DeAngelis
July 4, 2022

Banana Tree Timeline: How Long Does It Take Bananas To Grow?

Banana trees are quick to establish and produce heaps of fruit. If you’re thinking of planting a banana tree but don’t know what timeline to expect, we’ve got you covered!

It takes banana trees about 9 months to grow to full height, and only 12 months to bear their first fruit. On average, banana stalks last for about a year and a half to two years, but the plant that they stem from could last anywhere between 6 and 25 years.

The banana plants we grow today are genetically altered, which we’ll discuss more below. We’ll walk you through the full timeline of a banana tree’s life so you’ll know exactly how long it takes to grow, and what its lifespan looks like. Plus, we’ll cover some maintenance tips to keep your tree healthy and fruitful.

What Is A Banana Tree And Where Did They Come From?

Did you know bananas are technically berries, botanically speaking?

According to the Australia Banana Grower’s Council, bananas may have been the first fruit originating over 10,000 years ago.

The original bananas and those we know of today are different, of course, thanks to the fact that our modern bananas are modified to have no seeds and lots of edible fruit. Originally, there would have been a large pit and not much edible pulp surrounding it.

In fact, the modified bananas we eat today make it so that we have to either buy seeds from distributors or propagate already-existing banana plants to grow new ones. We’ll dive deeper into that soon, though.

The bananas we eat today come in a few varieties, sometimes referred to as plantains when they are not as sweet. The most common variety, however, is called the Cavendish after a 19th-century English Duke who propagated these plants and caused the eventual spread of these plants.

Bananas are a nutrient-dense fruit favored by children, athletes, and other adults alike. Its potassium, B vitamins, fiber, antioxidants, and other qualities make it a quick, cheap, and filling supplement for all diets.

So, you’re thinking of growing a banana tree of your own. Let’s talk about where to start: location.

Just How Fast Will My Banana Tree Grow?

Banana trees grow extremely fast.

How long does it take a banana tree to bear fruit?

From planting a banana tree (sowing the bulb of the tree) to being able to harvest fruit successfully, it is only a 9-12 month process.

This is quite contradictory to many trees. For example, an avocado tree can take up to 13 years to grow to maturity and begin producing its fruit. We have an article all about the avocado tree’s growth and lifespan, as a matter of fact!

This short, yearlong timeline of a banana tree may seem rather short. That’s because it is.

However, when we stop to consider bananas grow from banana stalks that shoot out of the overall tree itself, it is easier to see how this works.

Banana trees are a collective of individual stalks that produce fruit and then must be trimmed away. So, we can see how these trees might grow and begin producing bananas so quickly.

Okay, let’s look at the timeline of a banana tree itself.

Full Banana Tree Growing Timeline

Close-up of cluster of unripe banana fruit

So, you’ve decided you love bananas enough to grow them yourself. Congratulations. What should you expect, though?

What is the process like?

You want your bananas by next year, but there’s no way that’s realistic… right?

Wrong.

You can plant a banana tree and have the fruit within 9-12 months. Pretty cool, huh?

Not only that, but the tree can reach its full height of 20-40 feet tall within that 9-month period before fruit forms. Talk about fast-growing!

Day 1: Finding The Right Banana Seed

The very first day of our timeline consists of finding a way to plant your banana tree.

Modern Cavendish bananas and plantains don’t have seeds, as you’ve surely noticed.

So, how are you supposed to even plant a banana tree?

Bananas have been genetically altered so that they no longer have seeds, but they must come from somewhere.

In the wild, bananas still have seeds. They take up so much of the fruit that the pulp of it is difficult to eat and nearly inaccessible.

You can procure seeds from a supplier of some sort, whether that is a local provider or online. For example, you can purchase things like these Mini Bonsai Banana Tree Seeds to start your own banana tree growth.

You’ll want to follow a few steps to start growing your banana tree:

Soak your seeds.
- Seeds should soak for a day or two to prepare for planting.
Plant the seeds.
- You can plant the seed in a pot for the first week or two if you need, but you should aim to plant it directly into permeable soil. The seed should be about an inch deep, in holes that are 4 inches wide for best results.
- Space your banana plants about 2 meters from one another, to avoid overcrowding and the sun being blocked from any given plant.
Keep the soil well-suited for banana growth.
- Moist soil is another key to successful growth, as bananas grow best in tropical environments with this sort of moist, well-drained soil.
- The soil temperature should also stay between 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit in good conditions, as is expected in a tropical environment
Wait for germination.
- This can take anywhere from a month to 6 months, depending on the type of banana tree. This is when you’ll see vegetative growth.

Remember, this will give you a unique, less common variety of banana. If that is your goal, go for it. If not, keep reading for planting option number 2.

Alternative Day 1: Propagating A Banana Sapling

Now that you know what planting from a seed, or bulb, looks like, we should talk about the propagation option.

This one is far more common and is probably easier if you have any sort of access to other banana plants.

You can grow a Cavendish banana tree by propagating it, as seeds are not a part of this adapted variety of bananas.

An easier, more orthodox method is to take a pup, or sucker, both names work, from an already-established banana tree. This means that you are taking an offshoot, separating it from its main banana tree, and replanting it as its own tree.

This is not as difficult as you may imagine, because banana trees themselves are made up of many stalks and sections that bear fruit and then need to be removed. So, the removal of a section a bit early allows it to establish itself as its tree, and continue the cycle.

Day 1–Month 6: Vegetative Growth Period

Though we call them banana trees, banana plants are technically quite different in their growing process than any other trees.

They will grow pseudo stems, or leaves that build upon each other to support the main stem, in place of a trunk.

Since they don’t have a traditional trunk, the growth of these plants can take place much more rapidly.

The period of vegetative growth that takes place, in essence, is the majority of the tree’s maturing process. As it grows and develops these pseudo stems, you’ll want to provide your plant with a little extra water to ensure the healthy development of the plant.

If you are concerned about forgetting or not adequately estimating your watering, you can always use an irrigation system. This Flantor Garden Irrigation System could be the right starting place to help you get your banana tree going, without the stress of remembering when and how much to water it.

Month 6-Month 9: The Flowering Period

Once the vegetative growth period has given your banana tree its own legs to stand on as a tall, established plant, the flowering will begin.

This is realistically going to happen around month 9, but could be earlier in some conditions and later in some conditions.

One reason to plant in an area that is opportune for your tree (read: USDA hardiness zones 9-11) is that the weather will allow your tree to hit its expected milestones.

If you plant in an area that is too cold, it could take up to a year and a half for your tree to flower, effectively delaying your access to fruit and stunting the tree’s natural cycles.

This period is the connection between growth and fruit production, so it is an important one that leads us to our end goal: bananas.

Month 9-Month 12: Fruiting Period

Once you’ve gotten past the germinating, vegetative growth, and flowering periods, your plant will finally be ready to produce fruit!

Individual banana stalks will only produce fruit one time, so it is important to maintain your banana tree yearly to adjust for this.

You’ll need to cut back the stalks after you harvest the fruit to make sure new stalks can form and new fruit can grow in the same place.

Bananas will grow in large bunches called hands, each of which has about 20 bananas. You’ll see 10 or more hands on healthy, stable banana trees, meaning you can expect to yield at least 200 individual fruits.

Now that is bananas!

See what we did there? Anyway, you harvest the fruit after it develops during this 3-month period.

From there, any green bananas will take about a week to ripen after being harvested. Any ripe bananas should be consumed, distributed, or stored for later.

You can also help improve the aesthetic of your bananas by putting bags over the fruit. This is done in commercial farming to help regulate the look of the fruit, as well as keeping it safer from pests.

Where Banana Trees Commonly Grow Best

Hawaii, Florida, and other hot, humid climate areas in the United States are best for growing bananas.

Around the world, bananas are found growing in many tropical regions, from African regions to China, India, and many of the South and Central American countries.

Anywhere with a tropical climate can, and probably does, grow bananas thanks to their quick growth and massive yield.

Recently, Ecuador has been the top exporter of bananas in the world, followed up by the Philippines, Costa Rica, and other similar-climate nations.

In the United States, bananas grow best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11, though zone 10 is the ideal zone for this plant. Unsure of what this means? We’ll go further into these zones and their significance a bit further down.

Where To Plant Your Banana Tree

unripe Cavendish bananas growing in the garden

Banana trees need environments that are tropical, meaning warm, moist, and sunny. These factors will help to keep your banana tree and its fruit healthy and prosperous.

USDA hardiness zones ranging from zone 9 to zone 11 are best, though zone 10 is the prime location for banana trees to grow.

If you are looking to grow a banana tree anywhere in the United States, reference the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone map.

This map will help you determine which regions are the best suited to grow and sustain your banana tree.

What The Heck Is A USDA Plant Hardiness (Growing) Zone?

The USDA has created the hardiness zones distinctions to help define different regions of the country where plants might be best fit to grow and not only survive but also thrive.

These zones are based on the average, extreme, minimum temperatures of any given area. Essentially, in extremely cold winters, what would the average lowest temperature be?

While a region may look good in a normal year, it’s important to look at those extreme weather factors before planting any trees or other plants. This will help you identify the risks involved with the wintertime in the area, and how your tree might fare.

The hardiness of a tree, by definition, is its ability to handle cold temperatures and adapt. So, trees that do well in low hardiness zones are extra hardy and can handle super low extreme temperatures.

Those, like the banana tree, that require higher USDA hardiness zones to do well, are less hardy and will not do nearly as well as temperatures drop to their extremes.

Hardiness zones are broken up into ten-degree sections by number and then split into 5-degree subcategories that are divided by A and B.

The fact that banana trees do best in zones 9-11 means they can handle the extremely low temperatures in zone 9a up to zone 11b.

Zone 9a has minimum temperatures of 20-25 degrees Fahrenheit, while 11b has a minimum range of 45 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

These average minimum temperature ranges are in line with what you might expect for a heat-loving, tropical tree that is adaptable but not too much so.

How To Transplant Your Banana Tree Sapling

If you opted to plant your banana tree from a wild seed to get a unique type of fruit, or you thought your sucker (also known as a pup) would do best to start in a pot, you may need to know how to transplant your tree now.

Helping your tree adjust to a transplant begins by transplanting correctly at the beginning.

Plan to follow these next few steps to make sure you go about the process in the right way:

Location, location, location!
Banana trees are meant for tropical environments. This means that they love sun and heat. So, pick a location that allows your banana tree to get lots of sun and enjoy that nice warm weather it wants. At least 6 hours of partial to full sunlight is ideal.
Also, try to avoid planting your tree too close to any structures or other trees. Remember, banana trees grow fast and you don’t want a foundation issue, to be overshadowed by your tree, or to block light to other plants.
You’ll want to ensure that you have a hole that can fit the roots of the plant, giving them space to grow and flourish as your tree gets bigger.
Place your banana tree into its new home and watch it grow.
Generously water the tree to help the roots get established so that the tree can grow well.

Keeping Your Banana Tree Healthy And Thriving

It’s always important to keep in mind that trees of any sort do best in the climate that they originate from.

Since banana trees are tropical plants, keeping them in a warm, sunny environment with moist, well-drained soil is key to their success.

It’s all well and good to know how to grow a tree, how to transplant it, and how to care for it, but if the tree is not in a location that can sustain it, your efforts may not be worth the hassle.

You want to water your banana tree regularly, making sure that it gets 1-1.5 inches and up to 6 inches of water per month.

Remember to note that soil should be able to drain well, because you don’t want your banana tree sitting in lots of water, either. This will cause stress on the tree and likely hinder its progress.

Too much of a good thing can be a bad thing.

That’s All For Now!

Okay, don’t go bananas, but we’re done for now.

We hope this timeline helps you prepare to grow and sustain a banana tree, with fewer surprises.

This tree is unique, from its quick growth to odd lifespan and fruit-bearing process. Growing a banana tree isn’t the easiest job out there, so props to you for giving it a go.

Starting from an established tree and going the propagation route is simply going to be your best option, and is the one that we recommend.

The process is interesting, and it can be quite exciting and rewarding to see your banana tree spring to life. We know that you’ll enjoy the fruits of your labor quite literally, once you harvest the bananas your tree will produce.

If you want your very own home-grown bananas by next year, what are you waiting for? Start now, your future self will thank you.

Thanks for allowing us to be a trusted part of your tree journey. Happy planting, friends!

References

Kilwinger, F. B., Marimo, P., Rietveld, A. M., Almekinders, C. J., & van Dam, Y. K. (2020). Not only the seed matters: Farmers’ perceptions of sources for banana planting materials in Uganda. Outlook on Agriculture, 49(2), 119-132.

Lecompte, F., Ozier-Lafontaine, H., & Pages, L. (2003). An analysis of growth rates and directions of growth of primary roots of field-grown banana trees in an andisol at three levels of soil compaction. Agronomie, 23(3), 209-218.

By Zack DeAngelis
July 4, 2022

12 Trees That Can Grow In The Desert (And How They Do It)

When deciding which tree to grow, you want to think about what might fit best in your environment. For example, if you live in the desert, you’ll want to think about trees that can grow in the desert. Which trees might grow best in a dry environment? Can trees grow in deserts?

Trees that grow in desserts generally adapt to have lower water requirements. You can expect cacti, willows, palm, and acacia trees to grow well in the desert, among others. These trees all do well in dry environments are very adaptable to droughts when needed.

Once you decide which desert-dwelling tree to incorporate into your space, you’ll want to know a bit more about maintaining the said tree. Keep reading for more information on what plants can grow in the desert, as well as why they can grow in the desert.

Desert Environments Have Plants That Can Last

All trees are adaptable to some end, but many more so than others.

It is important to find a tree that can survive in desert conditions that are:

Dry
They don’t have much shade
Don’t provide regular or dependable access to water
Prolonged high temperatures
High rates of soil evaporation (resulting in extra dry soil)
Temperature fluctuations that are extreme in either direction

Knowing also what growing zone desert climates tend to be can help significantly when you are deciding which trees to plant there.

These desert regions in the United States range from Texas to California, between Nevada and New Mexico, including Arizona. The American Southwest and its neighbors are the regions we are going to be looking at as desert climates.

Keep in mind that, on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones Map, you may see regions with similar coloring that signify temperature, not environment.

Some U.S. regions may have similar extreme low temperatures on average, though they are not desert climates because there is more moisture available. There also tends to be less temperature fluctuation in these environments.

Trees Survive In Desert USDA Hardiness Zones (8a-11b)

While hardiness zones vary, the average zones that can be expected in the desert are zones 8a-11b. This range signifies average extreme minimum temperatures from 10 degrees Fahrenheit to 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Let’s back up a minute… average minimum what, now?

USDA hardiness zones represent the geographic areas in which plants can grow. They use the range of average minimum temperature, which is typically only seen in extreme cases, to determine the necessary hardiness of a plant.

If a plant is hardier and more adaptable to conditions like weather and temperature, it will do better in lower hardiness zones because extreme cold is more likely.

Plants that are less hardy will do better in the mid-range locations, ranging from zones 5-9, give or take.

It takes plants of a different type to do well in weather that is not extremely cold but is instead arid with less water access. These trees tend to do well in the zones that are labeled 8 and above.

That’s great, but what do the numbers and letters mean?

Good question, dear reader.

The number of hardiness zones represents a range of 10 degrees Fahrenheit, while the letters (a and b) represent halves of those zones. The a is the lower half, shown as a 5-degree range, and the b represents the higher 5 degrees of a zone.

So, if, for example, your date palm does best in zones 8-11, you can expect this means 8a-11b. We’ll talk in more detail about this specific example later on, of course.

If you see a zone say 9b-12a, this would mean that it can do well in two partial zones and the full zones of 10 and 11.

Essentially, these categories help you determine as accurately as within 5 degrees Fahrenheit how cold a place can get on average. Then, we can determine from there which trees and plants can survive at that low temperature.

How do you determine this on a plant-by-plant basis, though?

Determining A Hardiness Zone

palm in the desert oasi morocco sahara africa dune

If you’re wondering how you should go about determining a hardiness zone for your plant, wonder no further!

We’ll tell you the hardiness zones of each tree listed below, but we also want you to be able to figure this information out for yourself.

The hardiness of a tree is its ability to survive low winter temperatures and still thrive afterward.

Your tree may be able to physically survive a winter that is far below the range of its hardiness. However, it may not be able to bounce back and continue growing or producing fruit, leaves, or sap in the future.

You can search keywords like “hardiness zone of ___ tree” or “USDA hardiness zones that ___ trees thrive in.”

If you buy your tree (at any stage) from a nursery, they should also be able to provide this information to you. Local nurseries and in-person chains may be more well-suited for conversations, but if you buy online you can still often find a hardiness zone range for your plant.

Take this Perfect Plants Windmill Palm that is sold online, the site lists lots of important information including its cold hardiness, citing that zones 8-11 are best. If you know what to look for, you’ll be surprised to find that the information is readily available.

Remember, you can always refer to this USDA Hardiness Zone Map to help you determine which hardiness zone you will be planting in.

12 Trees That Can Grow In The Desert

If you live in a desert region of the United States, such as areas of Arizona, Colorado, Nevada, New Mexico, California, and Utah, growing trees might seem out of the question.

We are here to tell you that it’s not! There are at least 12 popular tree varieties that you can confidently grow in these areas. You can choose which types of trees you want based on the region you live in, the hardiness zone, and even the look of the plant itself.

The sky (or desert) is the limit when it comes to this list for all of you desert dwellers!

Desert Willow

Not a true willow, this genus of flowering plants does have a willow-like appearance. It is often used as a privacy screen when planted in a row of desert willows but can offer shade in the summer and help with insulation in the cold.

Hardiness Zones: 7b-11a: Adaptable to a versatile range of hardiness zones, the desert willow makes a good investment.

General Appearance: The desert willow is a small tree or shrub and often has a twisted trunk and branches. The canopy of the tree fans out beyond the trunk, but rounds into an even shape with regular, minor, pruning.

In the spring you can expect to see pink-purple flowers with yellow insides

Considerations: This tree is highly tolerant to drought and prefers full sunlight when possible, which should be easily found in the desert, making it a perfect tree for these areas.

Desert willows can be a bit messy when they drop their pods and leaves, so this is something to consider when planning your space.

Palo And Its Varieties (Verde, Blanco, Blue Palo Verde)

The Palo tree has many varieties. You’ve most likely heard of palo verde and palo blanco, but there are also versions like the yellow palo verde and, blue palo verde.

The Palo verde tree comes in about 12 different species and just so happens to be the state tree of Arizona.

Beyond Arizona, the tree is often found in other deserts in the Southwest United States and in Mexico.

Hardiness Zones: 8-11: While, overall, Palo trees do well between hardiness zones 8 and 11, you’ll want to check on your specific type of Palo tree.

Palo Verdes are recommended to be placed in zones 9-11 while yellow Palo Verdes thrive in zones 9-10.

As you can see, some of these varieties are a bit more restricted than others based on where they can thrive. So don’t expect all Palo trees to grow and develop the same way in zones 8 and 11 as they would in zones 9 and 10, which are the common hardiness zones across the board.

General Appearance: Palo Verdes and other types of Palo trees most commonly appear as green trees and shrubs. Their branches are intricate and their bark smooth, often a shade of green.

They flower a bright yellow bud in the spring and drop their leaves after the rainy season.

Considerations: This tree does best when it has water to get established. Although drought-resistant, the Palo tree needs some help to start its growth process.

As long as the soil drains well, the quality does not need to be very high.

Ocotillo Tree

Hardiness Zones: 8-11: This is an unsurprising range of hardiness zones for a desert tree, seeing as they are drawn toward warmer temperatures. As you’ve already seen, zones 8-11 are going to be common in this list.

General Appearance: This succulent is one of magnificent appearance, sporting many branches that go out to the sides from the base of the ground.

Almost bush-like in appearance, you’ll see that the ocotillo’s branches are strong, with flowers blooming at their tips. This plant will add a pop of color to your space any day!

Considerations: You’ll plant this tree in well-drained soil, keeping its roots moist during the early stages of growth. After that, feel free to water it intermittently as you would most other desert plants.

Date Palm

Hardiness Zones: 8-11: Here we are again, with zones 8-11 being the primary environment to host the date palm, this time.

General Appearance: The date palm pairs beauty with function as its fruits hang in bunches from the leaves that sit high up on the tree, above the patterned trunk that makes up the body of this palm.

Considerations: You’ll want well-drained soil (do you see another pattern?) and lots of sunlight (oh, and another!)

Essentially, this is another tolerant tree but needs to be able to get plenty of water when it flowers and produces its fruit.

Most Palm Trees

Hardiness Zones: 6b-11b: Not all palms do well in the lower hardiness zones, but some varieties may be keener than others to withstand a winter chill. You should always check first but when in doubt, remember that zones 8-11 tend to be the sweet spot for these kinds of trees.

General Appearance: Palm trees generally have leaves that stem from the very top portion of the trunk, and feather out. The leaves themselves may be shaped as fronds or in feather-like shapes, depending on the species.

Species type will determine the appearance of the trunk, as well. Some palms, like the date palm discussed above, have long and slender trunks while others are short and thick.

Considerations: Plant palm trees in soil, silt, or sand that can be easily drained but still has access to water (whether natural or human-provided.)

These trees should receive full sunlight and intermittent watering.

When buying a palm, you may have to purchase it at a juvenile stage, and transport it to where it will grow in your yard. Luckily this process is fairly common, and there are a few basic steps to help you transport palms.

Mountain Laurel

Hardiness Zones: 5-9: Here we have a range of hardiness zones that is a bit lower but makes sense as temperatures begin to drop the farther up a mountain you go.

While these trees are still great for the desert, their mountain-dwelling tendencies allow them to deal with colder extremes while not being as well suited for the hotter temperatures.

General Appearance: This leafy green tree also blooms beautiful purple flowers and is slow-growing, which means that you’ll get to enjoy the process with this one.

Considerations: This tree does quite well with adversity and is another one that you can leave in poor soil if needed.

Do not prune this tree unless there is a disease or it is needed for any other reason.

Acacia Trees

Panoramic image of a lonely acacia tree in Savannah in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania - Safari in Africa

Hardiness Zones: 9-11 Acacia trees take us back to those higher hardiness zones, thanks to their general desert-dwelling presence.

While acacia trees have a few common places where they will grow, they are probably most prolific in the desert.

General Appearance: These trees and shrubs tend to have a slender trunk and a wide, flat canopy that stems from a few main, large branches.

Considerations: As with the others, full sunlight and well-drained soil will do the trick with an acacia tree.

Chilean Mesquite

Hardiness Zones: 8-11: Zones 8-11 are best for the Chilean Mesquite, unsurprisingly.

General Appearance: With either a single trunk or multiple thin trunks that merge, the Chilean Mesquite has a fluffy-looking canopy of spindly, thin green leaves.

Considerations: In the first year of planting, water this tree every 7-10 days. After that, you know the drill- it’s full sunlight, well-drained soil, and intermittent watering from there.

Desert Lily

Hardiness Zones: 8-11: The desert lily also does best in zones 8-11.

General Appearance: The desert lily is a flowering plant that is long and slender. It directly blooms its lilies from its stem, and appears almost cactus-like, when compared to saguaros with newly-formed little arms sticking out.

The beautiful white flowers contrast against the green base of this plant and add vibrance to the desert’s tan hues.

Considerations: Well-drained soil + full sun = a happy desert lily. Same deal as the others, but written as a fun equation for your enjoyment.

Cactus Species

Hardiness Zones: 2-11 Some cacti can do well in hardiness zones that are extremely low and, while 4 tends to be the lowest you see, hardiness zone 2 is as low as some can handle.

This is a situation where it is difficult to say which plants will do well in which zones because there are so many species of cactus.

So, when buying these plants you should always check your resources whether they be online, salespeople, or gardening mentors that can help advise you.

It’s safe to say that cacti come in quite the range.

General Appearance: Often, cacti are green plants with tough skins and needles that permeate the surface. Sometimes there will be flowers, sometimes not. These plants may be seen as low-to-the-ground spheres or tall, thin poles with arms extending from the sides.

Considerations: Make sure your cactus has enough light, these desert-dwellers need the sun to survive.

You should plan long breaks in between the watering of your cactus but when you do water, make sure it will last your plant for the duration of that next break.

Try not to touch the needles (pro-tip, we know!)

Saguaro

Hardiness Zones: 8a-11b This, as a specific type of cactus, is a bit more easily qualified. Saguaros need to be in warmer zones, much like many of our other desert hardy plants.

General Appearance: Speaking of the tall, thin poles with arms extending from the sides, saguaros are a cactus, too, but deserve their category.

Considerations: Unlike other cacti, this one needs low levels of water on the same infrequent basis.

The soil you plant a saguaro in should be well-drained and allowed to fully dry in between watering sessions.

Fertilization is a big help in allowing this tree to grow to its potential, infamous, height, and age (read: tall and quite old!)

Desert Sage

Hardiness Zones: 5-9 Desert sage, similar to the mountain laurel, does well in the lower-midrange of hardiness zones, making this one a versatile desert plant.

General Appearance: Desert sage is a shrub with a green, sage-colored, base and light to dark purple flowers that span the plant.

Considerations: An infertile soil is a great home to desert sage, as long as it drains well and fast, as with our other plants on this list.

How Do Trees Grow In The Desert?

The biggest thing about this question is to understand that trees must be drought resistant to survive in the desert.

All the trees listed above can survive in the desert because they are adaptable and can survive without much water.

According to Arizona State University’s Ask A Biologist feature, plants with adaptations to survive the desert dryness are called xerophytes and succulents.

These plants will adapt to need less water, to store water more long-term, or may even combine these two adaptations to get a leg up in the desert. Some plants even grow roots that can be over 100 feet deep to access water stores far beyond the surface.

We had a bit of a variety of hardiness zones listed above, but you may have gathered that zones 8-11 were a very popular range of minimum temperatures for these plants. This is because desert plants that do well in dryness often also prefer the warmer temperatures associated with this type of environment.

While these trees are all uniquely adapted in different ways, their common denominator is that they can thrive in desert climates.

How do you help a tree that has already adapted to live in such harsh, dry conditions?

Maintaining Your Desert Trees

Joshua trees (Yucca brevifolia) along Boy Scout Trail in Joshua Tree National Park, California

Once you’ve chosen and planted your tree that grows well in the desert, the final, and most long-term, step is going to be maintenance.

So, how do you best care for your tree over time to ensure that it lives a long and healthy life?

There are two things to consider, primarily, for desert plants:

Water
Fertilization

How To Water Desert Trees

Infrequent watering is best for desert plants, despite all of our urges based on watering practices in regions with more moisture.

To most closely mimic the natural watering cycle in the desert, you should only water your desert trees and plants intermittently.

Often, you’ll also want to allow the soil to dry out completely in between waterings to follow that natural cycle.

Drip irrigation systems like this Flantor Garden Irrigation System are going to be your best bet because they help you time and distribute water accurately.

Desert Trees’ Fertilizer Needs

In the desert, the element most commonly needed by plants is nitrogen. So, opting for a nitrogen-heavy or all nitrogen fertilizer is the way to go.

Not only will you be sustaining your desert tree, but you can confidently know that you are giving it what it needs most to thrive in the desert landscape.

Trees use nitrogen to help produce chlorophyll, protein, structural tissues, and other enzymes necessary to the success and life force itself of a tree. So, what better addition when looking for fertilizer than nitrogen?

Especially if you are looking for a way to quickly bolster your tree growth, nitrogen will give you profound effects that other nutrients may not be able to provide for your tree.

The PetraTools Liquid Nitrogen Fertilizer is a great product that should last you a while, saving you some money while sustaining your tree.

Wrapping Up

While we’ve talked all about the trees that can do well in the desert, it seems that we’ve used up our store of information for this article.

Remember, when looking for a tree that can grow in the desert, there are a few factors you can’t beat:

Deep roots to soak up deep water reserves
Thick leaves or stems to retain water
Overall succulent
Drought resistant thanks to the above characteristics

Once you’ve planted your desert-friendly tree, whatever type it may be, make sure to maintain and sustain it so that you can enjoy its presence for years to come!

Focus on intermittent watering patterns, nitrogen-based fertilization, and general maintenance practices such as monitoring the appearance of your tree.

For now, we thank you for joining us as you continue along your tree journey. It is certainly a process, and we’re glad you trust us to help you along the way.

See you next time!

References

El-Lakany, M. H. (1983). A review of breeding drought-resistant Casuarina for shelterbelt establishment in arid regions with special reference to Egypt. Forest Ecology and Management, 6(2), 129-137.

Hanscom III, Z., & Ting, I. P. (1978). Responses of succulents to plant water stress. Plant physiology, 61(3), 327-330.

Isaifan, R. J., & Baldauf, R. W. (2020). Estimating economic and environmental benefits of urban trees in desert regions. Frontiers in Ecology and Evolution, 8, 16.

By Zack DeAngelis
July 4, 2022

11 Reasons To Cut Down Your Oak Tree (And When To Do It)

That majestic oak tree is a beautiful sight to behold when it’s big and healthy. But that same beauty can be a nuisance it’s growing too close to your house. Though it may pain you to do so, you might have to cut down your oak tree!

You may need to cut down your oak tree if it has recently sustained too much storm damage, is leaning close to your house, or may fall on your own or other’s property. Oak trees that have expanding roots leading to foundation or sidewalk damage should be taken down.

Trees can bring on a sense of pride, add value to your property, or even hold sentimental value, but they don’t last forever. Keep reading as we discuss the reasons you should cut down your oak tree!

Cut Your Oak Tree If Its Too Close To Your Property

Oak trees need between 15 to 25 feet of distance from structures to be safe so they can grow without too much crowding. If your oak tree is getting a little close for comfort, you may have to cut it down.

A new seedling or sapling might be able to be moved to a new home, but once the tree gets established, it will be too big and too heavy to try and move. The root system will be spread much farther than the canopy, and damaging them could permanently damage the tree.

When a tree is very close to the house, branches that will inevitably fall could damage the roof, windows, or vehicles. Even healthy branches can get snapped off during rain storms, high winds, or snow and ice.

If the oak tree was to fall, it could severely damage the house and require extensive repairs. I’ve seen trees that weren’t considered big, shear off whole rooms when they have fallen.

A tree that has grown too close to the house needs to go for safety’s sake. In most cases, there are a few ways that you can get rid of oaks, but if your tree is large, the best option is most likely to cut it down.

You Should Cut Down Oaks That Stop Growing

Maybe your oak tree has stopped growing completely. It’s been looking rather weak for several seasons, but now the bark is falling off all over, the leaves don’t grow anymore, and the bare wood is looking gray. These are signs the tree is dead or dying and needs to be removed.

Trees nearing the end of their lifecycle become more dangerous as branches get weaker and tend to fall off seemingly at random. It could be a fine, blue sky, not a cloud around, without a breeze, but a big oak tree limb still careened down from the tree. When trees are no longer living, the wood gets weaker and large chunks can fall at any time.

Weakened trees also attract insect pests like termites and carpenter ants. When these insects start drilling through the trees, they get even weaker.

When you start seeing signs like this, go ahead and get someone to remove the tree. Being proactive will prevent damage from a falling tree and help keep pests from spreading to otherwise healthy trees.

If you have a specific issue, take a look at our guide on how to stop caterpillars on your oak tree here!

Get Rid Of Dying Oak Trees

Hopefully, if you do have a dying oak tree you can treat it before it gets too bad, but if the illness has caused significant damage, the only option might be to have the tree cut down altogether.

Signs of failing trees can include yellowing, browning leaves, or early drop before autumn. This could also be signs of drought so getting a tree expert out can let you know for sure.

Other signs of afflicted oak trees are branch dieback, fungus, bark peeling and falling off, or powdery moldy looking growth on the tree. If you see any of these signs the tree might have some kind of issues that needs to be treated.

Many tree afflictions can be spread to other trees on your property if they are not properly treated. These problems bring on the insect issues as well.

They seem to sense weak trees and attack when they are feeling down. It’s nature’s way of weeding out the weak and keeping the strong. If you notice these problems early and get an expert out to treat them, you might be able to save your oak tree!

If too much time has passed and the tree is too far gone though, the best option might be to go ahead and remove the oak tree completely.

You can view our full guide on the most common dying oak tree issues here!

Chop Down Leaning Oak Trees

The fourth reason you might have to cut down your oak tree is that it has begun to take on a precarious lean.

Your oak tree could be growing a bit lopsided for any number of reasons, but now it’s looking a little suspect. You might be able to get away with trimming it in a way it levels out, but if the lean is too severe, you might have to cut the oak down.

Oak tree roots don’t grow very deep. They may extend dozens of feet beyond the canopy, but they only go about 18 inches (1.5ft) deep. I mention this because if the tree has too severe of a lean, the roots will simply get ripped out of the ground when the tree finally gives way.

So, if your oak tree is leaning like a horseshoe on the peg, you’ll most likely have to have it cut so it doesn’t fall on its own.

If you’re wondering about your specific oak tree species, you can take a look at our piece on how long oak trees live!

You Can Cut Down Hollow Oak Trees

A tree with a hollow trunk may live for many years because the living part of the tree is just under the bark. All the nutrients and water flow through a couple of layers just under the surface of the tree.

It may look relatively healthy except for that gaping hole in the trunk that travels up through it. Or maybe a branch fell off and you see a black hole of nothingness inside. Something has tipped you off that your big oak tree isn’t as solid as it appears.

While trees in the wilderness with hollow trunks and branches in them can house a lot of wildlife, you don’t want all that in your yard. While hollow trees offer great shelter to animals such as porcupines, and several birds including hawks, owls, woodpeckers, squirrels, and martens, unfortunately, the tree is unsafe in your yard.

Hollow trees don’t have a fraction of the strength and integrity that full, solid trees have. Branches can fall out of the canopy easier. If insects or rot are active inside the trunk of the tree, it could eventually cause the tree to topple over.

According to The University of Maryland Extension, The xylem and phloem of a tree are the life support tissues. A tree with a hollow trunk can live for years but will have compromised strength. If one-third of the tree is hollow or rotten, it needs to be cut down.

Bad Storm Damage May Force You To Cut Down Your Oak

Storm damage can mean wind knocking branches off or splitting the trunk of the tree or a lightning strike that has damaged the tree beyond repair. If the tree is so damaged from the elements that removing it is the only option, then it must be done.

Oak trees are also susceptible to ice damage. When you get heavy snow or especially freezing rain that coats the branches in thick layers of ice, the branches could snap. Some trees bend more than others like arborvitae, sweetgum, and black walnut which are more resistant to ice damage.

You’ll also find that storm damage is likely to strip the oak trees bark as well.

Some oak varieties tend to break with ice and snow, so if any of these storms cause too much damage to your oak tree, you’ll likely have to get it cut down. Especially if the crown or trunk is severely damaged.

If it’s been affected by a thunder storm, you can take a look at our guide on how to save your oak tree struck by lightning!

Cut Down Oaks With Prolonged Insect Infestation

Procession caterpillar nest on the treen trunk of an oak tree

It’s inevitable. If you own property with vegetation, it’s not a matter of if, it’s a matter of when you’re going to get an insect infestation of some type. Oak trees are no different.

Though there aren’t many bugs that can cause severe damage to oak trees, a continued or persistent insect infestation could mean major problems.

The most popular bugs that damage oak trees include the tent caterpillar, oak worm caterpillars, and bark beetles.

You’ve most likely seen tent caterpillars in the trees at some point in your life because they make big clumps of what looks like thick spider webs in the canopy of trees. They typically reach peak numbers during the dog days of summer.

The caterpillars themselves are fuzzy, usually have a whitish stripe down the middle of the back or on the sides, and can have spots that resemble eyes on the sides. They look rather creepy and dangerous but they are harmless to people.

They live in these silk-covered nests eating leaves and growing bigger until they morph into moths. Then they only live for a few days, mate, and die.

To get rid of a small infestation of tent caterpillars, you should cut down any nests you see with this DocaPole 6-24 Foot Double-Duty Telescoping Extension Pole + GoSaw. Once you have removed the nests from the tree, dunk them into a bucket of soapy water to drown the worms.

If you have a heavy infestation, or the tree is very tall, you should call your local tree expert to help you tend to the problem.

Oakworm caterpillars usually have two spikes near the head and may have spines running down their back, but they are considered harmless to humans as well. These critters also eat the leaves of oak trees, but without making the unsightly silken clusters like tent caterpillars.

If your oak tree has a large enough infestation of oak worms, they can strip an entire oak tree canopy, leaving it struggling to make enough food for itself. This can systematically destroy the tree if it can’t create enough food for itself.

Bark beetles are small, cylindrical, brown, or black beetles up to ⅙ of an inch long. The problem with these beetles is when you see them all you can do is give up on the tree. Once they have set in, it means the tree is too far gone to save it because they will not infest a healthy oak.

According to UC Berkeley, once bark beetles start attacking the trunk of an oak tree, insecticides won’t help it. The oak is so far gone that it is severely compromised and can’t be saved.

Depending on the severity and type of insects on your oak tree, you may have to get it removed. Consulting a professional tree company will give you more insight into whether the tree can be treated for the pests, or if it can’t be saved and needs to be removed.

Cut Down Oaks That Cast Too Much Shade

A large healthy oak tree can create a lot of shade which can make it hard to grow grass. Most grass love full sun, and often need plenty of water and fertilizer to keep it growing green, lush, and healthy. So having a big shade tree, and lush lawn often seems impossible to attain.

You might be able to trim off the lower branches of the oak tree to let in enough sun for the grass to grow, but if the tree is a low-growing, long-spreading type, you’ll end up doing more harm to the tree.

Oak trees have a lot of leaves that create a large amount of shade. This shade can easily impede the growth of other plants within the area.

You might be able to find shade-tolerant grass for the area underneath the oak. Then you have to contend with the problem of having two different grass species that require alternating care and may look out of place.

Oak trees have shallow roots which can rise out of the ground which makes the yard look unsightly, as well as difficult to mow without messing up mower blades.

Grass also often requires extra watering and fertilizer. Depending on the oak species, this lawn care regimen can often slowly harm the tree. Ultimately leading to the removal of the tree anyway. For these reasons, you may want the oak tree removed from your yard.

Cut Down Oaks That Cause Power Line Troubles

Trees and power lines seem to be adversaries because they never get along. Trees that grow into power lines can break them, grow around them, or even end up electrifying branches.

Often, trees that are near power lines are simply cut away from them or completely topped. This kind of aggressive cutting can permanently damage the tree or at the very least leave it looking lopsided and ugly.

When a tree is topped, it means all or most of the canopy is cut away. Sometimes this leaves the tree with few branches and no leaves. Leaving what looks like a sad, spike-less, bark-covered cactus. While some trees will still cling to life and try to grow more branches and leaves, the tree is left in a very weakened state and often dies after a few seasons.

Supposing the tree survives the heavy trimming, or only needs a quarter of the branches removed, it will only require frequent trimming to keep the branches away from the lines. Most times it’s simply best to go ahead and remove the tree to prevent any new problems, especially if it has been topped.

If you do cut down the tree down, you can save the oak tree for firewood!

You Should Cut Down Crowded Oak Trees

Old oak and hornbeams in natural late summer deciduous stand of Bialowieza Forest,Poland,Europe

When overcrowding happens between trees, you end up with a grove of weak, competing trees that can fall, or invite disease and pests. All trees require a certain amount of sunlight, and the tallest trees tend to get the most.

If you have several oak trees grouped, they will all be competing for enough sunlight to stay strong and healthy. Often they will grow tall, and only really leaf out at the top as they try to take in as much sun as possible before the other tree starts “throwing shade.”

The crowded trees then start to get top-heavy because the lower branches don’t get enough light and fall off. This can lead to trees falling over, especially in high winds or heavy storms. In the forest, this works out fine as the weaker trees are weeded out, but on your property, it can lead to costly repairs and clean-up.

When your trees become too crowded, call up a professional tree company who can help you decide which trees to thin out, and which ones to keep.

Cut Down Oak Trees With Root Issues

Oak tree roots can become a problem if you have pavers, sidewalks, driveways, or other concrete/asphalt structures in the vicinity of an oak tree. Their roots are shallow and can cause cracks in concrete and raise them creating trip hazards.

Though this typically happens closer to the tree’s trunk, an oak’s roots can grow 4 to 7 times wider than the tree’s canopy. Anything on the ground in this area is at risk of being cracked or lifted by the shallow roots. These roots can also penetrate your home’s foundation and cause very costly damage.

You can use root inhibiting chemicals to stop the flow of them or install barriers around your foundation to keep the roots from getting under the foundation and loosening the soil. You can also cut the roots back if you see they are becoming a problem, but this can cause other issues.

Aside from bringing nutrients to the tree, roots also act as an anchor to keep the tree upright. When you start reducing the roots by chemical means or cutting, it could damage the tree. If you live in a high wind or heavy rain area, trimming roots could make it easier for the oak tree to topple over.

An arborist will be able to tell you which roots can be cut, if that is an option, or whether the tree needs to be taken down completely. You don’t want cracked slabs or a sidewalk that’s as hilly as a roller coaster because of tree roots.

Considerations Before Taking Down Your Oak

Now that you know the reasons you may need to cut your oak tree, you might have to take other considerations in mind. Is your neighborhood part of an HOA, is the tree in question situated on an easement, or does the tree share property with a neighbor’s yard?

Maybe – you might just decide that you need to only trim your oak tree after the fact!

Before doing anything drastic to your tree, check on those things. If you are part of an HOA, make sure you can take the tree down by checking closely over the rules and regulations. You may need to call the committee to make sure there won’t be any issues with taking the tree down.

An easement is a part of your property that others can use for different reasons depending on the type. Some great examples include a driveway that a neighbor has to use to get to their property, or a utility easement, which, let’s say the water department can use to lay pipes on your property.

If the tree in question is located on or near an easement, you may have to get permission to remove it. Check with your local property assessor to find out.

When the tree that needs to come down is on a shared property line, or very close to one, you might have to get the neighbor’s permission as well. To be sure, check with your county or local laws and hopefully you are on good terms with your neighbors.

If you’re going to cut down your oak tree in a non sensitive area (such as in a field with NO surrounding structures), I highly recommend taking a look at our piece on the 10 different ways to remove your oak tree – it’ll help you make the right choice!

When Is The Best Time To Cut Your Oak?

Depending on the state of the tree and how damaged it is, you might need to wait to cut the tree down. Of course, if the tree is ready to fall, is being held up by another tree, or is damaged severely in any way, you should have it removed as quickly as possible.

On the other hand, if the tree isn’t in danger of falling at any second, waiting a little while could save you some money and be safer.

Tree companies are often very busy during the summer months, and throughout the stormy season.

After a hurricane has barreled through tree companies might not have time to cut your tree down, or they will charge quite a bit more because they are so busy, they are paying their employees overtime. That cost is passed on to the consumer.

Waiting until late fall or during the winter when business slows down could get you a deal. Tree companies will often offer discounted rates or coupons during the slow months to get business.

Call around in the cooler months if the tree can wait, your wallet will thank you!

Trimming or cutting your oak tree after all the leaves are gone is also safer. It’s easier to see where all the branches are without all the leaves getting in the way. With all the leaves gone, it’s also easier for the tree-cutting personnel to guide the branches down after they are cut without secondary damage.

Replacing Your Old Oak Trees

After you have your oak tree removed for whichever reason, why not plant another in its place…or two, three…

They don’t have to be oak trees to replace the one you just removed. You may be hesitant to go through such a big undertaking again, that’s understandable, so you could plant a tree that doesn’t get nearly as big as oak trees.

Go with something ornamental like a flowering, weeping cherry, a couple of Bradford pear trees, or maybe even a Japanese maple or two.

You can get this beautiful Two Pack of Japanese Red Maple Trees for a great price. They are small enough (1 to 2 feet tall) to plant nearly anywhere and only grow to 10 to 15 feet tall. Hardy in zones 5 to 8. They don’t require a ton of maintenance and can be beautiful focal points for your landscaping.

You can also view our article on picking out a new oak tree sapling for more info!

That’s A Wrap!

It may be painful to cut down that oak tree in your yard, but there are times when there is no other alternative. Whether it’s been damaged from a storm, is infested with bugs, or has finally reached the end of its life there are several reasons you’ll have to cut down your oak tree.

We hope this guide has helped you make a decision on what to do next!

References

Garbelotto, Matteo, Pavel Svihra, and David Rizzo. “New pests and diseases: Sudden oak death syndrome fells 3 oak species.” California agriculture 55.1 (2001): 9-19.

Boyd, I. L., et al. “The consequence of tree pests and diseases for ecosystem services.” Science 342.6160 (2013): 1235773

Panzavolta, Tiziana, et al. “Tree pathogens and their insect-mediated transport: Implications for oak tree die-off in a natural park area.” Global Ecology and Conservation 15 (2018): e00437.

Martin, Tina, and Thomas Günther. “Complex resistivity tomography (CRT) for fungus detection on standing oak trees.” European Journal of Forest Research 132.5 (2013): 765-776.

By Zack DeAngelis
July 1, 2022

9 Beautiful Plants To Put Under Your Palm Tree

Palm trees will give your yard a tropical feel and provide plenty of exciting foliage as the palm-like fronds spread out and sway in the wind. But just because the space under your palm tree is shady doesn’t mean you can’t spruce it up with some tropical shade-tolerant companion plants!

Some of the best plants that will thrive under your palm tree include tropical hibiscus, asparagus fern, Asiatic jasmine, bromeliads, golden shrimp, birds of paradise, crotons, blue ginger, and moth orchids. All of these plants thrive in tropical climates and aren’t opposed to the cool shade thrown by your palm tree.

Below, we’ll go over the BEST plants to plant under your palm tree. We’ll also discuss some of the care requirements so you can make sure your tropical plants thrive.

Can You Grow Plants Under Your Palm Tree?

Depending on the species of palm tree you are dealing with, the space beneath it may seem too inhospitable to grow plants. Don’t fret, there are plenty of shade-loving tropical plants out there!

So, the answer is yes! You can grow plants under your palm tree.

Even so, the plants under your palm tree will face a few challenges that will need to be addressed:

Shade: First and foremost, your plant will need to tolerate some shade to survive under your palm tree. Some palms cast more shade than others, so be sure to choose a plant that is at least somewhat shade tolerant.
Nutrients: Palm trees require nitrogen, potassium, and magnesium more than any other nutrients, and they will steal these from their leaves if the quantity is scarce in the soil. Planting something beneath your palm tree means there will be even fewer nutrients available.

To combat this problem, you’ll want to use a palm fertilizer to ensure your palms are getting enough nutrients despite sharing the soil with another plant. BGI’s Palmgain 10lb Bag Palm Tree Fertilizer was designed by the University of Florida to specifically address palm tree nutrient needs.

Water: According to the University Of California, palms should be watered when the soil two inches below the surface is dry. When you add a plant under your palm tree, that water is going to disappear faster than normal, meaning you’ll have to water the area more frequently.
Climate: Before choosing a plant to place beneath your palm tree, take into consideration the hardiness zone in which the plant can survive. It needs to be adapted to tropical conditions just like your palm tree.

Despite these challenges, you have a wide variety of choices to plant under your palm tree. There’s no reason the space beneath your palm needs to be bare or plain jane. Spice it up with some creeping vines or brilliant bromeliads!

How To Grow Plants Under Your Palm Tree

Beautiful palm trees and shrubs in the park under the sunlight

All of the plants on our list are going to combat the challenges we discussed above. They’ll be shade tolerant, require little nutrients and water, and thrive in tropical climates.

But to make your plants happy and to see the full blooms of flowers while keeping your palm trees a lush green, you’ll want to take care when planting under your palm tree by following some of the guidelines below.

Choose The Right Location For Your Plants

This may seem like a silly section – aren’t we planting our plants under our palm trees? Well, yes, but there are a few areas to avoid under your palm tree.

When digging into the soil for a spot to place your plant, make sure you’re not digging near or on top of the palm tree roots.

Palm trees do not have very deep roots. Instead, they spread out in a fibrous manner horizontally as opposed to vertically.

If you’re digging and hit into something hard, chances are you’re on top of the palm tree’s roots. Try to dig a little to the left or right to make sure your landscape plants do not choke out the palm tree roots.

Another consideration when choosing a location for your plants is what areas receive sunlight. There should be some places beneath your palm tree that receive a little sun during the morning or evening.

Depending on your chosen plant, you may need to plant them where they get the most sun or perhaps even the least sun. In general, the north side of your palm tree will get the least sun while the south will get the most.

A third and final stipulation is the plants that don’t require digging at all.

Uh, what?

Yep, some of the plants on our list are going to attach to the trunk of the palm tree instead of being planted in the soil!

With these plants, you’ll want to make sure to attach them with something that will hold them up properly and provide them with the necessary sunlight requirements.

If your palm tree isn’t in an ideal location for growing with other plants, you may have to find a way to safely transport it to a different area in your yard! You can read our guide on how to transplant a palm tree here!

Know Your Palm Tree

According to the University of Florida, there are over 2,600 species of palm trees and shrubs. That’s a lot of variety!

Before you decide to plant something under your palm tree, make sure you understand what kind of palm tree you have and what its specific requirements are.

You don’t want to plant something under your palm tree that won’t make a good companion. For example, planting something that requires constant moisture with a palm tree that requires good drainage and cannot remain wet.

We’ll go over some of these specifics below so you can be sure you’re planting something under your palm tree that will thrive, adding color and variety to your tropical garden!

Another thing to take into consideration is the size of your palm. Some of the plants on our list grow quite large, over five feet, so you’ll want to make sure you match the size of the flower with the size of the palm.

Some of the best palm trees for larger flowers include:

Areca Palm
Kentia Palm
Windmill Palm
Fan Palm (and its varieties)
Canary Island Date Palm
Queen Palm
Foxtail Palm
Sylvester Palm

If you decide to go with one of the shorter flowers on our list, you can fit them under some of the smaller palm varieties such as:

Pando Palm
Pygmy Date Palm
Cat Palm
Fishtail Palm
Lady Palm

All palm trees may have that beachy feel, but not all palm trees have the same layout. Take a careful look at how the leaves of your palm tree cast shade on the ground. For some of the flowers on our list, you’ll want to find the sunniest spot, for others, the shadiest.

9 Most Beautiful Plants For Underneath Your Palm Tree

Palm trees are a staple in yards and gardens for those who live in tropical climates. They bring out a beachy feel and look super nice on those blue-sky days.

But there’s nothing wrong with adding a bit of color and interest under your palm tree. Check out the plants below and choose the one that fits your landscape the most!

Tropical Hibiscus

Tropical hibiscus can be grown as a tree or as a shrub. These tropical plants boast amazingly showy flowers that come in a wide range of colors.

Growing to around 5 feet tall, tropical hibiscus will do best beneath a large palm tree as opposed to a low-growing palm tree.

According to the Smithsonian Institute, tropical hibiscus thrives in hardiness zones 9 through 12. They’re low-maintenance plants that prefer well-drained soil, just like many palm tree species.

Tropical hibiscus is known for its beautiful flowers, but when planted in the shade of a palm tree, don’t be surprised if you see fewer flowers than those planted in the full sun.

Water: Tropical hibiscus is semi-drought-tolerant, but it prefers evenly moist soils. Try to keep the leaves as dry as possible to avoid mildew.

Sun: The more sun the more flowers, but tropical hibiscus will thrive just fine in partial shade. Try to place this plant in the spot that gets the most sun under your palm tree.

Bloom Time: You can expect your tropical hibiscus plant to bloom year-round, but each blossom only lasts a few days.

Pair With: Medium to large palm varieties.

Asparagus Fern

Asparagus ferns are evergreen perennials that have an interesting shape and lush green leaves that will show off nicely beneath your palm tree.

These evergreens thrive in hardiness zones 9 through 11 and prefer sandy, shady conditions. They’re not as showy when compared to other tropical plants. Their flowers are small but fragrant.

The nice thing about asparagus fern is that it’s tolerant of various conditions, including drought and shade. This makes it a good companion plant to your palm tree.

You can plant asparagus fern with tropical hibiscus as these two plants have very similar requirements and clash nicely in terms of texture and color.

Water: Asparagus ferns prefer moist soils but their roots store enough water to withstand some drought. If the leaves begin turning yellow, your fern needs more water.

Sun: direct to indirect light. This is best placed in the sunniest spot beneath your palm tree.

Bloom Time: Asparagus fern blooms from spring through fall.

Pair With: Small to large palms

Asiatic Jasmine

Although the name is misleading, Asiatic Jasmine is not related to the jasmine plant. It is a tropical evergreen creeping vine that will look great beneath your palm tree.

This resilient vine can withstand salt, drought, shade, and poor soil conditions. The less care you give it, the better off it is. If you give too much water to this plant it can expand too quickly, covering ground that you don’t want to be covered.

Asiatic jasmine does well in hardiness zones 7 through 10 and, seriously, once you plant this baby you don’t have to do anything. Natural rainfall will suffice this hardy plant for water and it isn’t necessary to fertilize unless the plant doesn’t appear to be growing.

According to the University of Florida, you can expect your jasmine vine to expand 3 feet wide and anywhere from 6 to 18 inches tall. Just be aware that this is a groundcover plant, meaning nothing will be able to grow beneath it, especially grass and weeds.

Water: Watering is not necessary except when the plant is first transplanted into the soil.

Sun: Thrives in deep shade to full sun

Bloom Time: While the plant itself will remain green year-round, the inconspicuous flowers only bloom from July to August.

Pair With: Small to large palms

Golden Shrimp Plant

With an interesting name, stunning gold and white blooms, and lush green foliage, what’s not to like about these plants?

Golden shrimps thrive in hardiness zones 9 through 11. They typically reach a height of around 3 feet, so are best planted beneath a palm tree that can accommodate this height.

One downside to this beautiful plant is that, once it grows, it can look sparse underneath. Planting a groundcover plant along with your golden shrimp plant can help fix this issue.

Water: Golden shrimp plants prefer evenly moist soil. It’s not recommended to let them dry out between waterings.

Sun: Full sun to partial shade. Find a spot under your palm tree that receives a few hours of sun per day.

Bloom Time: When grown in tropical regions, golden shrimp plants bloom year-round. In subtropical regions, they may only bloom in summer.

Pair With: Medium to large palms

Bromeliads

Bromeliads don’t refer to a specific type of plant. Rather, it refers to an entire family comprised of over 2,500 different species of plants.

Bromeliads may grow from the ground, but some are known as epiphytes and grow on tree trunks or rocks. These tropical plants cannot withstand freezing, so if they are grown outdoors they will only thrive in zones 9 or higher.

Because there are so many different species of bromeliad, you can imagine their shade tolerance will vary. When searching for a bromeliad to plant under your palm tree, look for these varieties:

Aechmea
Neoregalia
Nidularium
Canistropsis
Vriesea
Pitcairnea

In the wild, many of these shade-tolerant bromeliads have incredibly bright flowers to attract pollinators to shady locations. So, you can expect your shade-tolerant bromeliads to add some very attractive color under your palm tree!

Notes on mounting bromeliads to your palm tree trunk: if you decide to go for an epiphyte bromeliad, make sure to mount it using something natural like Kinglake’s 328 Feet Natural Jute Twine.

This type of twine will eventually degrade in the environment. Using fishing line, copper wire, or other non-degradable material is not recommended. Once your bromeliad is secure, it will begin to take hold of the trunk with its roots while the original mounting material degrades.

Water: Bromeliads that attach to tree trunks or rocks absorb water through their leaves and from the cups that their foliage forms. They are used to environments with high humidity, so be sure they get enough water. However, do not overwater, as bromeliads do not like to sit in wet soil.

Sun: Varies with species. If you choose from the varieties we listed, they thrive in partial to full shade.

Bloom Time: Varies depending on the species. Some will bloom for months while others only a few weeks.

Pair With: Palms with relatively thinner trunks so the roots can take hold easier. The height of the palm isn’t as important.

Birds Of Paradise

We’re talking about the birds of paradise plant, not the actual bird. Though, those colorful birds would look nice in your tropical garden!

But really, you can get the beautiful color of a bird of paradise from the plant, too. These tropical flowers produce brilliant colors that resemble their namesake.

Birds of paradise do best in hardiness zones 10 through 12, but can be kept in colder climates if brought indoors during the cold season.

Some species of birds of paradise can grow to 30 feet tall, so be sure to pick a smaller variety such as Dwarf Orange so it will fit beneath your palm tree.

One of the downsides to birds of paradise is that they take a few years to bloom. If you buy the plant in a container, it may already be blooming. But, if you try to plant it from seed, you may have to wait a few years before you see those brilliant flowers.

Water: Birds of paradise prefer moist soil, but make sure to let the soil dry between waterings.

Sun: Birds of paradise can tolerate partial shade, but they do best in the sun. Try to find a place under your palm tree where the canopy breaks open, giving your birds of paradise as much sun as possible.

Bloom Time: Birds of paradise are more likely to bloom when the hot tropical temperatures cool down a little, typically from Fall through Spring.

Pair With: Large palm varieties

Crotons

If you want a variety of colors, look no further than crotons! These perennial evergreen shrubs come in all kinds of colors, shapes, and sizes. You’re bound to find a variety that fits your palm tree, no matter its size.

Some varieties of crotons need full sun, so be sure to grab a shade-tolerant variety such as Geisha Girl, Van Buren, Mosaic, Claude Lorraine, or Nestor.

You can use crotons to cover the entire area beneath your palm tree, or just a few spaces. The beauty of this plant doesn’t come from its flowers but rather from its leaves which range in color from light whites, yellows, and pinks to dark reds, purples, and oranges.

Crotons can be purchased at a local garden center and typically come in pots. They are hardy from zones 9 through 11 but can grow in colder climates if brought inside when temperatures cool down.

Water: Crotons prefer to be watered frequently. If you notice the leaves begin to wilt, your plant is probably thirsty.

Sun: depends on the variety. Many shade-tolerant varieties do great in dappled shade.

Bloom Time: According to the University of Wisconsin, crotons bloom in the spring, but the flowers are not very showy compared to the stunning leaves.

Pair With: Varies with the species. Check the height of your croton to see which palm it pairs best with!

Blue Ginger

Similar to our Asiatic jasmine plant, blue ginger has a misleading name and is not related to ginger at all! Instead, this tropical plant belongs to the same family as spiderwort.

Blue ginger boasts brilliant blue flowers and has lush green foliage to add to the tropical feel of your palm tree.

These plants are evergreen when grown in tropical and subtropical areas, but when exposed to cooler climates they will lose their color and die back in the winter.

Blue ginger grows up to 8 feet tall, so will not do well beneath smaller palm varieties. It thrives in hardiness zones 9 through 11, a perfect partner for your palm tree.

Water: Keep the soil evenly moist. Like many plants on our list, blue ginger is used to high humidity and will appreciate a misting here and there.

Sun: Prefers dappled shade.

Bloom Time: If given the right conditions, blue ginger will produce flowers year-round. Otherwise, they may only bloom spring through fall and die back in the winter.

Pair With: Medium to large palm trees.

Moth Orchid

If you’re looking for a unique flower to pair with your palm tree, the moth orchid is the way to go. This orchid does best when attached to your palm tree’s trunk and is given part shade, part sun.

Similar to our epiphyte bromeliads, use twine or burlap to help secure your orchid to the trunk of your palm tree. The rougher the bark, the better. You can use sphagnum moss to cover the burlap or twine and provide your orchid with soil medium.

Moth orchids are low-maintenance plants that do not require many nutrients or care. They thrive in zones 10 through 12. In colder climates, they must be grown in pots rather than on your palm tree.

These interesting plants can grow up to 3 feet tall but are generally around 12-15 inches.

Water: Orchids prefer humid environments and will benefit from a weekly misting. According to the Smithsonian Institute, you should only water your orchid when the growth medium (your sphagnum moss) is dry.

Sun: Moth orchids prefer partial sun.

Bloom Time: Moth orchids will bloom in winter or spring, depending on the climate. The blooms will most likely fall off when temperatures get too hot in the summer.

Pair With: A palm tree that will provide part sun, part shade. The rougher the bark of the palm tree the better. The size of the palm tree doesn’t matter, but these orchids typically look better on thin-trunked, medium to tall palms.

That’s All For Now!

Having a landscape under your palm tree will only add to the uniqueness and beauty of your tropical yard.

But for a plant to thrive under your palm tree, it will need to overcome shade, water, and nutrient deficiencies. Luckily, you still have quite a list to choose from.

To recap, the 9 best plants to plant under your palm tree include:

Tropical Hibiscus
Asparagus fern
Asiatic Jasmine
Bromeliads
Golden shrimp plant
Birds of Paradise plant
Crotons
Blue Ginger
Moth Orchid

This list includes a variety of flowers that should be able to fit under any palm tree you may have planted in your yard.

You can check out Tree Journey if you have more questions about your landscape trees, flowers, plants, or shrubs!

References

Granados, J., & Korner, C. (2002, September 30). In deep shade, elevated CO2 increases the vigor of tropical climbing plants. Global Change Biology, 8(11), 1109-1117. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1046/j.1365-2486.2002.00533.x

IEEE Staff. (2011). Overview of image processing approach for nutrient deficiencies detection in Elaeis Guineensis. IEEE. https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/abstract/document/5993432/citations#citations

Praptosuwiryo, T. N., & Cahyaningsih, R. (2019). Diversity and host preferences of ferns and lycopods epiphytes on palm trees. Biodiversitas Journal of Biological Diversity, 20(12).

Thomas, K. R., Kolle, M., Whitney, H. M., Glover, B. J., & Steiner, U. (2010, December 06). Function of blue iridescence in tropical understory plants. Journal of the Royal Society Interface, 7(53).

By Zack DeAngelis
June 30, 2022

9 Best Places To Plant A Birch Tree And Where They Grow Best

Though you may not know the names of many trees, most people can instantly recognize birch trees because of their distinctive beauty. But as an ornamental tree found in nurseries everywhere, can birch trees grow well in locations other than riverbanks?

The river birch grows along riverbanks naturally, but they actually can be planted nearly anywhere in the United States. Birch trees are rapid-growing, hardwood trees that are naturally tolerant and grow best in wet areas. Once established, birch trees do best as landscape trees in acidic soil.

If you would like to own some of that beauty for your property, we will show you the best places to plant birch trees and where they grow the best!

What Is A Birch Tree?

Birch trees are short-lived, fast-growing trees known for their distinctive bark patterns that originate from cooler regions of the northern hemisphere. They are used as ornamental trees as well as for lumber, and the papery bark has many uses, including pharmaceuticals.

Birch trees are prized for their stunning visual appeal throughout all seasons compared to most ornamental trees who only show off their innate beauty during Fall. The unique, white, curling bark of the birch tree looks amazing in any season, especially in Winter.

They have picturesque white bark that often is seen peeling off in large sheets contrasting with bold green saw-toothed leaves and are usually seen growing along riverbanks or streams.

Younger trees show off the characteristic peeling bark, but as they mature the lower regions of the trunk bark grow thicker into deeply furrowed, brown plates. All birch trees exhibit “toothy” outer edges on their leaves.

There are about 40 different varieties of birch trees from the iconic river birch that you’ve probably seen along rivers or creeks, to paper birch, and silver birch to name a few. For this article we will be focusing on the most popular birch varieties that are native to the United States, and where they grow the best.

If yuo were wondering more about paper birch, that’s the type with all the flakey bark! And no, you shouldn’t peel birch tree bark off if you see it flaking.

Do Birch Trees Only Grow on Riverbanks?

Birch trees can grow in a variety of places, not just along riverbanks. While the aptly named river birch does grow naturally along riverbanks and they easily establish themselves on their own, they can grow in many other areas.

Most birch trees need plenty of water when they are first planted, but once it is established, it will grow well in most areas and soils.

They do need plenty of sunlight in the canopy but also require a bit of cool shade and moist soil for the roots. This can be accomplished by planting ground covers, low-growing flowers, or a thick mulch bed to protect the shallow roots from getting too much sun.

What Climate Does A Birch Tree Grow Well In?

Birch trees are native to cooler regions of the Northern Hemisphere like Europe, Canada, the USA, and the Himalayas. They can handle colder temperatures, but unless they are native to warmer climates they may not do as well in the farther southern regions. In the US birch trees tolerate winters as far north as zone 2 and can withstand summers as far south as zone 7.

Birch trees can tolerate extreme cold climates and are able to survive temperatures colder than -40F. They are supremely adapted to tolerate and exploit the harsh conditions of northern ecosystems that make most other trees (and people for that matter!) tap out.

Birch Trees Don’t Do Well In Drought

Birch trees have shallow roots that require a lot of water, especially when they are starting. They do well in areas that get a lot of rain or low-lying areas where water accumulates, but they can’t handle being wet all the time.

Once a birch tree has had a chance to be well established, it is relatively drought-resistant, but it can’t handle the dry, hot climes of the deep south.

Here Are The Best Places To Plant Birch Trees

Birch trees can grow in many places, with varying types of soil and water conditions; they don’t have to be along the banks of lakes and rivers to thrive. Here are 9 of the best places to plant birch trees!

Birch Trees Thrive In Areas With Full Sun

Birch trees need a lot of sun! At least 6 hours of full sun is needed to keep birch trees happy, but at the same time, you have to protect the roots and keep them shaded. There are several reasons why birch trees can’t grow in shade, so if you have areas in your yard or along with your property that get a lot of sun, that’s a good place to plant a birch tree (and have a picnic with your family of course!).

In the article, “How to Grow and Maintain a Healthy Birch Tree”, the USDA suggests that homeowners should place birch trees where the soil will be shaded, cool, and moist. It’s important to remember, however, that birch trees require full to partial sunshine on their leaves to grow well.

Birch trees send out sprawling lines of shallow roots that need to be protected from the strong sun. The ideal place to plant a birch tree if you have the structure is the north or east side of the building. This way your birch will get at least 6 hours of sunlight, and the roots stay cool and protected.

If you don’t have a building to prevent the sun from pounding the root system, you can simply mulch around the tree, or plant something along the base of the tree that will protect the roots.

Bulbs work well to protect the shallow roots of birches as well as low-lying ground covers like vinca, ornamental grasses, or other plants that don’t require deep soil to thrive in.

Fun Fact: did you know that black birch is one of the hottest burning firewoods?

Birch Trees Do Well Along Creeks Or Riverbanks

Birch trees grow well along riverbanks or other areas of running water. If you have a creek or river running through your property, you could plant a line of birch trees along the water’s edge. You will have a picturesque scene of unmatched natural beauty on your property!

When planting them, make sure the tree is back enough away from the bank that it won’t end up falling in. They love water, but aren’t the best swimmers! You may have to water them a bit for the first year, but once they have established themselves, they will find plenty of moisture from the river.

Birch Trees Like To Be Near Ponds

Do you have a natural pond on your property? Why not plant a few birch trees near the pond to offer some shade to the area and add an extra dose of beauty to the area. Only plant birch trees near natural water features, and not on ponds or fountains that you have spent a lot of money and time on as they can damage them.

If you have landscaped a pond or water feature on your property, planting a birch tree nearby is not recommended. Birch trees are known for seeking out water, and they could puncture the liner in that quest to find water.

Also, when Autumn hits, many of the falling leaves will get into the pond and possibly clog up the pumps or even harm fish or other animals if you have them!

Plant Birch Trees In A Landscape

Do you have a landscaped area of flowers and decorative shrubs, but you just need something more to top it off and make the area pop? Maybe you should think about planting a birch tree there! If the canopy can get plenty of sun, this could be a perfect place to plant a birch tree because you already have plenty of vegetation that will serve to protect the roots.

If you have plants that work well with shade or semi-shade, a birch tree could go well there because, after a short time, the canopy will spread out and provide a nice area of shade for your shade-loving plants.

Birch Trees Make A Beautiful Centerpiece

The beauty of birch trees with their striking white bark and light, airy canopy is the perfect specimen for centerpieces in your garden or landscaping. Birch trees grow fast, so in a few years, you will have a mature tree centerpiece. Add in some low-growing shrubs or flowers to contrast or accentuate the whitebark and you will have a stunning centerpiece in your garden!

Just be careful not to plant birch trees too close to sidewalks as the shallow roots could eventually crack or lift the concrete. Also, before planting, check to make sure there are no water pipes or drainpipes anywhere near the root system. Birch tree roots will seek out the tiniest cracks and get inside where they will eventually crack or clog the pipes.

Birch Trees Prefer Areas With Acidic Soil

Birch trees prefer acidic soil of 6.5 to 5.0 on the pH scale while most lawns prefer a neutral 7.0 pH.

So, if you have an area of your yard or garden that is more on the acidic side, and you just can’t get grass to grow well there, don’t alter the acidity, simply plant a birch tree there instead!

Plant Birch Trees In The Wet Areas Of Your Garden

Tree and green grass lawn covered with water

Other places that are great to plant birch trees are wet garden areas. Do you have an area in your garden that just seems to stay too wet for much of anything else to grow?

If you have an area that is simply too damp and other plants you put there drown or get root rot, try setting a birch tree there.

Maybe the area is a little lower than the rest of the garden. Possibly there is a lot of clay in the ground that holds water longer than other areas.

Whatever the reason for the extra wet area, it would be a great place to plant some birch trees. Birch trees can tolerate wet areas well and will help with the soggy problem.

Birch Trees Do Well In Low-Lying Wet Areas That Gather Water

Birch trees can also do well in that low-lying area in the back of your yard (or front, or side) that always seems to be soggy and swampy whenever it rains.

Your grass out there is always struggling because of the water that pools up out there, and as soon as someone walks across it, you have a muddy mess. You could clear that area up with a few birch trees!

You don’t have to hire an expensive excavator to regrade the area or have truckloads of fill dirt piled in the low-lying area to prevent the water from pooling up and messing up your yard. Instead, think about planting birch trees to take care of that area naturally.

It never hurts to plant trees. Not only are they pleasing to the eye, and provide shade and shelter for birds and other small animals but they also help to remove carbon dioxide from the air!

Birch Trees Can Be Planted In Sandy Soil

If you have very sandy soil, you know there aren’t many plants or trees that will grow in the loose soil, unless of course, you love to have spiky cactus all over. But then again, if your area is too wet, even the cactus will have a hard time surviving.

Birch trees with their shallow, sprawling roots love loose, quick-draining, sandy soil. If you mulch up the leaves that drop each year and leave them to degrade into the soil you will also help to condition the soil for further plantings as time passes.

The leaves will break down and provide missing nutrients than sandy soil usually doesn’t have.

If there is an area that is too sandy for anything else to grow well, then it’s probably a perfect place to set a few birch trees there.

Are Birch Trees Actually Good for Yards?

Well, that depends on what type of yard you have. Birch trees are fast-growing trees but are also one of the shortest-lived of the hardwoods.

In the early years, birch trees will shoot up fast, often 20 to 40 feet high. If you plan on planting them in your yard, make sure they are not too close to your house, or near power lines as they will have to get cut back.

Some people think that planting birch trees in clumps of three tends to prevent the trees from reaching their maximum height. The thinking is because the roots are shallow and widespread, with three birch trees in a small area, the roots have to compete amongst themselves and stunt their growth.

If your yard has an irrigation system or you have a lot of water pipes running through your yard, you’d be better off not planting birch trees in your yard. Birch trees, like willows, have strong and aggressive roots that will seek out water wherever. Metal or plastic pipes are no match for the roots of the birch, as they will infiltrate any tiny joint or crack.

If you have a small yard with lots of pipes running through the ground or a lot of overhead hazards then birch trees are not a great fit for you.

Alternatively, if you have a wide-open space free from overhead lines and in-ground plumbing, then the space would be great for a birch tree or more. Birch trees don’t grow huge, but they can get 30 to 40 feet tall, and need to be a minimum of 20 feet away from your house.

Birch Trees: Are They Able To Grow Just Anywhere?

While birch trees come from cooler climates and love wet, well-drained soil, with the proper care they can grow just about anywhere. The main hindrances to growing birch trees are heat and drought.

The USDA write up on the Paper Birch sums up where birch trees can grow best by stating that due to the trees overall genetic makeup, the paper birch grows can grow on almost any soil. Specifically, they state it can grow from “steep rocky outcrops of the mountains to flat muskegs of the boreal forest (Histosols)”.

Pretty wild stuff!

Birch trees can grow in wet areas, sandy or clay soils, areas of higher acidity, and love full sunlight as long as the temperature doesn’t get hot enough to bake the roots. Once the trees are established, they become more drought tolerant because of the shallow root system.

Precautions To Take Before Planting Birch Trees

Birch trees are beautiful in their own right and can make stunning additions to your property, but with planting any tree, some careful considerations need to be made before you plant.

Water Lines and Irrigation

As we stated earlier, birch roots will seek out water. Front yards usually have water supply lines and sewage lines underground. Irrigation lines for watering lawns and landscapes have become increasingly popular as well. If your yard has any of these pipes in your yard, it’s not advised to plant birch trees in this area.

The roots of birch trees can spread far and are determined to get into the never-ending supply of water. Make sure you check for water lines before planting birch trees.

Overhead Power Lines

You also shouldn’t plant birch trees near overhead power lines, streetlights, or other overhead hazards. Birch trees grow fast and tall; if they get into the lines above, the city or county will have to cut them back.

Sidewalks, Patios, or Other Paths

Because of the shallow, sprawling root systems of birch trees, unless you want your sidewalks, patios, or walkways to become an off-road hiking trail, don’t plant birch trees around these structures. The roots could crack the concrete, raise pavers, or otherwise disturb the smooth surface creating trip hazards, and unsightly cracks.

Wrapping It Up!

You may have noticed the peeling bark, and rough-edged oval leaves of birch trees along rivers and parks and wondered if you too could have something like that in your garden. Well now you know you can, and you know where you can plant these cold-loving deciduous trees where they will grow the best.

Some of the best areas to plant birch trees are:

Areas with full sun
Near creeks or riverbanks
Near ponds
In a landscape
As a centerpiece to a garden
Areas you have acidic soil
Wet spots in the garden
Low lying areas that gather water
In sandy soil

Birch trees are prized for their distinctive looks, and captivating beauty through all the seasons, and are a very fast-growing tree. They grow great in nearly all types of soil conditions with the proper care, meaning you can enjoy that papery magnificence all year round in your yard and property.

If you have sandy soil, wet soil, normal soil, or acidic soil, a birch tree will love it as long as the leaves get plenty of sun, and the roots stay cool and moist, you too can grace your yard with the beauty of the birch tree.

Best of luck on your tree journey!

References:

Lachowicz, H., Sajdak, M., Paschalis-Jakubowicz, P., Cichy, W., Wojtan, R., & Witczak, M. (2018). The influence of location, tree age and forest habitat type on basic fuel properties of the wood of the silver birch (Betula pendula Roth.) in Poland. BioEnergy Research, 11(3), 638-651.

Beck, P., Caudullo, G., de Rigo, D., & Tinner, W. (2016). Betula pendula, Betula pubescens and other birches in Europe: distribution, habitat, usage and threats.

Perala DA, Alm AA. (1990). Reproductive ecology of birch: a review. Forest Ecology and Management 32: 1-38.

By Zack DeAngelis
June 15, 2022

Tree Grafting During The Winter? Follow These 9 Simple Steps

Grafting a tree sounds like a difficult, labor-intensive, highly skilled endeavor, but it doesn’t have to be. It does require a little bit of knowledge along with a few specific tools, but it can be done if you follow a few simple steps. Grafting a tree also needs to be done in late winter, before the trees transition out of their dormant state.

When attempting to graft a tree, it’s best to wait until late winter or early spring while the scions and rootstock are still in their dormant phase. While budding is usually performed during the growing season, most grafting is done in winter and results in the best success.

The preferred time to graft most trees is in the late winter, before the temperature starts to warm up, and before the trees start to bud. The reason being, because as the tree enters the growth stage, it can heal faster, and has more time to grow before going dormant again. Keep reading to learn the steps to graft your tree!

Check Your Equipment Before Getting Started

The proper tools are essential for doing any job well. Though you won’t need a lot of equipment to graft trees, the proper maintenance of your equipment will make all the difference. Before you get started make sure you have these items available:

Tree Grafting Requires A Grafting Knife

A grafting knife or a razor-sharp knife works very well here.

A sharp knife is paramount for grafting because you need good, clean cuts on both your scion (the part of the tree you are going to graft, usually a short, pencil-thin branch) and rootstock (the tree that is getting the graft attached to it).

A clean wound on a tree heals better and faster compared to a jagged, rough cut, a tear, or crushed part of the tree. PUELDU Double Blades Grafting/Gardening Knife with 2 Grafting Tapes is a great option because it has one curved blade, which helps to get a clean cut, and a flat blade with a bark lifter for cleft and splice grafts.

It also comes with two rolls of tree wrap!

If you need to sharpen your knife instead of buying a new one, this Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener will help you put a razor’s edge on your blades.

Sharp Bypass Garden Snips

Your scions should be about the width of a standard, wooden pencil. A sharp pair of bypass garden snips such as these Gonicc 8″ Professional Premium Titanium Bypass Pruning Shears will probably become your gardening best friend.

These bypass shears create clean cuts on smaller branches making your grafting job that much easier.

Tree Wrap

When you start grafting trees, you are essentially performing surgery on a tree. Once the graft is complete the wound needs to be wrapped with a high-quality tree wrap.

This helps to keep bugs and debris out of the wound so it can heal faster and cleaner. The second reason to wrap a new graft is to add structural integrity. After all your hard work, you don’t want a mild gust of wind to break off the newly grafted branches.

You can use something flexible such as electrical tape in a pinch, but we recommend tree wrap made specifically for trees. Dumta Nursery Grafting Tape is a great grafting tape that allows the wound to breathe while keeping water out. It’s also biodegradable, so you won’t have to remove the tape once the graft heals.

Cut-Resistant Gloves

While working with very sharp knives, it’s always advisable to have something to protect the little “piggies”. Cut-resistant gloves such as these Cut Resistant Gloves, 3 Pairs Upgrade Safety Cutting Gloves are an essential safety precaution when working with very sharp knives.

Fine Toothed Saw

This tool is optional depending on the type of graft you are doing and the size of the graft. If you are grafting a larger branch that snips or loppers can’t easily cut through, you will need a fine-toothed saw for a nice, clean-cut.

Corona Tools 10-Inch RazorTOOTH Folding Saw is a great pick for branches or trunks six inches or less that need to be cut for grafting. The sharp teeth leave smooth cuts that will heal easier compared to other saws.

A Disinfecting Solution To Clean Your Tools

To prevent cross-contamination between trees, it is advised to disinfect your cutting tools before and after you cut into the trees. Isopropyl alcohol works immediately to disinfect your tools, and it evaporates quickly which helps to prevent rust.

You don’t have to mix isopropyl alcohol or dilute it with anything!

Another solution to disinfect your tools is to use a mixture of water and bleach (according to product specifications.) Place the solution on your blades and let them dry completely before using!

The downside to bleach is it can eventually damage plastics and rubber parts on your tools. It can cause the metal to rust if it’s not cleaned and dried completely, and if you get it on our clothes, it will strip the color out.

9 Steps To Easy Grafting! Let’s Get Started

Several different types of grafting that can be done to a tree, but we will be focusing on the whip and tongue graft, which is one of the easiest grafts, especially compared to a whole tree graft.

Yes, you can graft an entire tree. As long as you have a strong rootstock and fresh scions available, you can graft an entirely different tree to a small stump. But that’s an advanced class, let’s start with something simple; a single branch.

Whip And Tongue Graft

This type of graft is the most popular method and is used mostly on fruit trees. Say you have an apple tree that grows beautiful red delicious apples, but you want a variety.

So you decide to graft on some gala apples, for example, now you have one apple tree that produces two types of apples every year. But, can you graft in winter? Let’s dive into grafting to learn more!

Step 1: Choose Your Grafting Site

We’re assuming you already have your rootstock and scion picked out, so we’re going to get straight into grafting. You want to make sure for a whip and tongue graft, both rootstock and scion are about the same size.

Step 2: Cut Your Scion On A Diagonal

With your sharp knife or razor knife, cut your scion on a diagonal. This cut only needs to be about one inch long.

Step 3: Make A Second Diagonal Cut

Next, you need to do another opposite, diagonal from the first cut you made. Your scion should now have a V at the bottom of it and now be about one-half inch long.

Step 4: Cut An Area Below The Buds

On your rootstock, take the bypass shears and cut an area below any buds. You want the tree to focus on the graft and grow that section.

Otherwise, the graft may not take because all the growing energy is being focused on the bud underneath the graft.

Step 5: Cut A “V” Into Your Rootstock

Now, use your sharp knife again and cut a ‘V’ into your rootstock where the scion will rest.Where your scion has a point, the rootstock needs to have an open ‘V’ base for the scion to fit into.

What you want to see is the cambium layer lining up. The cambium layer is the layer of green growth directly underneath the bark. This is where all the growth happens on trees, so these need to line up as closely as possible.

According to NC Historic Sites, for a successful graft, each growth needs to have clean, even cuts that match up to the cambium layers. The wound is then bound with tape so it can heal. Then new cadmium cells grow together to create a layer of cells called a callus.

Step 6: Insert The Scion Into The Rootstock

Make sure you DON’T shove it in there because that could cause your rootstock to split. You want a good, snug fit, but don’t shove it in there. If there is a big gap, whittle down one end so it fits better, but really be careful not to split the branch of your rootstock.

Step 7: Wrap Both Ends Using Grafting Tape

Now that the scion and rootstock are together—you may need an extra pair of hands for this step—wrap the two ends with grafting tape. You want to make sure the tape has a snug fit, but don’t squeeze the life out of the tree.

If you have ever wrapped your wrist, knee, or other joints with a sports brace, this would be similar, only a little bit tighter. The main goals here are to keep insects and rain out while adding structure and stability to the graft with the grafting tape.

You could also take this time to label your graft. You don’t want to accidentally cut the graft off when you go to prune your trees. Plus, if you do several grafts at the same time, this helps keep everything organized.

Step 8: Maintain Your Tree!

Now, you should water your tree, and if it hasn’t been fertilized in a year or two, now would be a great time to add some extra nutrition so the tree can grow even better!

Keep checking on your tree to make sure it’s doing well. Not all grafts will take so you will have to keep an eye on the scion to see if it is starting to grow when spring rolls around.

Step 9: Check To See If The Graft Has Taken

Once you see that the graft has taken and the scion has leafed out, you might be able to take the tape off if it’s not biodegradable tape. Around mid to late summer, if the tape is not starting to come off on its own, you should go ahead and remove it.

If the tape stays on too long it can actually constrict growth and choke off the new graft. Take a look at the grafting point, it should be almost undetectable, or you might see a small scar where the cuts were made.

As long as it’s all fused, the graft is a success and you don’t have to worry about wrapping it anymore. Give yourself a nice pat on the back or congratulate yourself by cracking open a cold one!

Benefits Of Grafting

Macro photo of a successful graft in the branch of a cherry tree in bloom.

Grafting has been around for thousands of years, and if it wasn’t for this type of tree surgery, we might not be enjoying the plump, delicious, sweet, fruit we enjoy today.

If you have ever planted seeds from an apple, one, you know it takes a long time to get fruit, and two, you wouldn’t even end up with the same fruit.

If you planted a Honeycrisp apple seed, you’d be very disappointed when the fruit that finally came about was hard, bitter, and tasted nothing like the apple the seed came from. That’s because apple seeds don’t grow the same trees or fruit. Apple trees are grafted to get a certain type of fruit.

Grafting can be done to make a hardier tree. Say a certain type of tree is prone to root problems, you can bypass that by grafting a tree to a different, more resistant rootstock.

According to the USDA, grafting can create a desirable market for growers and consumers by increasing resistance to diseases, nematodes, and stress. Grafting can also increase harvest yields and fruit quality.

Grafting also adds variety. I once had a citrus tree that had five different fruits growing on it. Lemons, limes, tangerines, navel oranges, and mandarin oranges. You could do the same thing with other fruit trees, or similar flowering trees for a unique species.

You can experiment with small branches, that way, if the graft doesn’t take, you won’t lose the entire tree, just a branch or two.

Why Graft In Winter?

Grafting in late winter is the best time for several reasons. The trees won’t get shocked when you do a transplant on their limbs, when the growing season starts, the tree has a longer time to heal, and spring is when all the tree’s growth happens.

If you were to start grafting in the summer or fall then the tree would not have time to completely heal before the harsh winter sets in. When the temperatures dip below freezing, a frost could set in and ruin the new grafts, making them completely unviable. Grafting in late winter or early spring counters the hard freezes that could ruin a new graft.

During spring, trees take in a lot of water which flows through the cambium layer. The water is used to kickstart new growth and make the leaves bud out. This is what really makes a graft heal and start growing.

Grafting in late winter gives the tree plenty of time to completely heal and get prepared for another winter chill.

Can You Graft Trees In Summer?

There’s no law that says you can’t graft trees in the summer, but we certainly wouldn’t recommend it. The reason is that the growing season is over, and the tree won’t have enough time to heal before winter.

Basically, doing anything to your trees such as transplanting, pruning, or grafting during the summer is just a recipe for disaster. During the summer, you should only really be watering your trees.

What Types Of Trees Can Be Grafted Together?

Common wisdom for tree grafting is that the trees have to be similar to each other for a graft to take. Unfortunately, we won’t be seeing any Christmas trees that also grow apples—heavy sigh. Sadly, you also won’t have any success putting the lime in the coconut tree (to drink it on up).

Apple trees can be grafted to each other, and some people have reported success in grafting pears to apple trees. Stone fruit trees can be grafted to each other. I’ve heard of peach, nectarine, plum, and cherry trees before.

Citrus trees can also be grafted together. Roses can be grafted to have different color flowers on the same tree, but in the end, the trees have to be similar to each other.

The reason is, that the cambium layers have to be similar, or they won’t line up and grow together. Completely different tree species have different growth layer structures, so that’s why they don’t work.

Where To Get Scions

There are several places you can get viable scions:

Friends and neighbors
Farmer’s markets
Local plant sales
Online retailers
Some nurseries—call and see. They may have a supplier they could hook you up with
In the wild—be sure to check local laws and ordinances, sometimes it’s illegal to take from state and national forests.
Grow them yourself

Storing Your Scions

Scions need to be cut when they are dormant and can be stored for up to three months. You want to make sure you have the previous year’s growth on the straightest branch possible. To locate the new growth, take a look at the potential scion, where the bark changes texture or color and cut just below this area.

If you are going to store them, you’ll need a little more space to cut them off before you graft them.

Scion wood can be stored in an unheated basement, garage, or refrigerator. The temperature needs to be between 34 ℉ and 54 ℉. Never store them in a freezer, this will ruin them.

You’ll need a sealable bag that is big enough to hold them comfortably. Next wrap the scions in damp paper towels. They don’t need to be dripping wet, and, you should squeeze as much water out of them as possible, then put them in the refrigerator.

You’ll have to take them out, and open up the bag to exchange the air inside about once a week. These are still living plant parts and need fresh air. If you need to add some water to the paper towels, now would be the time to do that, just remember to squeeze out the excess.

That’s All On Grafting, Folks!

grafting trees in spring. Gardening and vegetable garden. Selective focus. nature.

Now you know all about the whip and tongue graft and how to go about it yourself. It’s best to do this type of grafting in late winter when the tree is dormant so that when spring rolls around, the tree has plenty of time to heal.

Just remember to keep the scions and rootstock fresh, and you’ll need similar varieties of trees. I know I’d love to have a fruit salad tree, complete with apples, cherries, oranges, peaches, etc, but because the trees are so different, it’s not possible right now.

Thanks for sticking around with us on your tree-grafting journey!

References

Goldschmidt, Eliezer E. “Plant grafting: new mechanisms, evolutionary implications.” Frontiers in plant Science 5 (2014): 727.

Errea, P. “Implications of phenolic compounds in graft incompatibility in fruit tree species.” Scientia Horticulturae 74.3 (1998): 195-205.

Ashrafzadeh, Seyedardalan. “In vitro grafting–twenty-first century’s technique for fruit tree propagation.” Acta Agriculturae Scandinavica, Section B—Soil & Plant Science 70.5 (2020): 404-405.

Melnyk, Charles W., and Elliot M. Meyerowitz. “Plant grafting.” Current Biology 25.5 (2015): R183-R188.

By Zack DeAngelis
June 15, 2022

Grow Your Business with Tree Journey

Maybe Your Pine Tree Just Needs A Trim

9 Reasons You Should Cut Down Your Pine Tree

Your Pine Tree Is Too Close To Your House

Remove A Pine Tree After Irreversible Storm Damage

You May Have To Remove Your Pine Tree After Insects Or Fungus Have Settled In

Your Pine Looks More Like The Leaning Tower Of “Tree-za”

Maybe You’re Tired Of Cleaning Up The Pine’s Mess

You Can’t Get Any Grass To Grow Under Your Pines

The Pine Tree Is Already On Its Way Out

Your Pine Tree Costs Too Much To Maintain

Have The Pine Tree Removed If It’s Too Close To Power Lines

When Is The Best Time To Cut Down Your Pine Tree?

This Is All Wrapped Up!

References

How Can Citrus Trees Be Evergreen?

Evergreen Orange Trees

Lime Trees Are Evergreen

Lemon Trees Are Surprisingly Evergreen

Yes, Even Mandarin Trees Are Evergreen!

Calamondin Trees Are Considered Evergreen

Evergreen Grapefruit Trees

Kumquat Trees Never Lose Their Leaves

Tangerine Trees Keep Their Foliage Year Round

Pummelo Trees Are Evergreen

That’s All For Now!

References

Burning Wood With Nails Can Cause Them To Fly Out

The Nails Won’t Fully Melt And Get Left Behind

Old Pallets Have Nails

Construction Materials Shouldn’t Be Burned

Burning Galvanized And Treated Nails Releases Chemicals

Burning Wood With Nails Causes Potential Damage To Wood Burning Stoves

Wood With Nails Is Often Low-Quality Wood

Leftover Nails Pose A Threat To Wildlife

How To Properly Dispose Of Wood With Nails

DIY’ers Love Repurposed Wood

That’s A Wrap!

References

So, Is It Okay To Bury The Base Of My Tree?

Why Are Mulch Volcanoes Around Trees Bad?

Lack Of Nutrients Reach The Roots

Causes Root Dehydration

Makes The Tree Vulnerable To Pests And Insect Damage

What Can I Do Instead Of Burying a Tree Base?

Rake Away Excess Mulch

Create A “Mulch Circle” Around Your Tree

Why You Should Always Mulch Your Tree

Increases Soil Composition

Reduces Watering Frequency

Mulch Can Double The Growth Rate Of Your Tree

Prevents The Growth Of Weeds

Reduces Salts And Pesticides That Can Reach The Trees Roots

Best Simple Mulch To Use For Your Tree

That’s A Wrap

References

Why Grow Flowers In Your Van?

How To Grow Flowers In Your Van

Choose The Right Location For Your Van life Flowers

Choose A Non-Rigid Pot For Your Van life Flowers

Give Your Flowers Enough Sunlight

Keep The Temperature Regulated Inside Your Van

12 Easy Flowers To Grow In Your Van

Grow Forget-Me-Nots In Vans

Grow Begonias In Your Van

Sweet Alyssum Can Grow Well In Vans

You Can Grow Daisies In Vans

Try Growing Marigolds In Your Van

Dwarf Varietie Petunias Can Grow In Vans

Easy-To-Grow Impatiens For Your Van

Lobelia Can Grow Inside Your Van

Pansies Are Easy To Grow In A Van

Grow Low-Maintenance Geraniums In Your Van

Final Thoughts On Growing Flowers In Your Van

References

Reasons Marigolds Need Full Sun

Marigolds Need Full Sun To Photosynthesize All Day

Marigolds Need Full Sun To Prevent Wilting And Pests

Common Marigold Issues

Common Marigold Pests